FO OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / D EC E M B E R 1 7, 2 0 1 8 / @ FO OT W E A R N E W S

C O N T R O V E R S I A L C A M P A I G N S , C O O L C O L L A B S A N D B U Z Z Y A T H L E T I C M O M E N T S F U E L E D F O O T W E A R . A D D I N S U R P R I S I N G

E X E C E X I T S , M E G A D E A L S A N D V I R G I L A B L O H ’ S R E I G N — I T W A S A Y E A R T H A T H A D E V E R Y O N E T A L K I N G .

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FIND YOUR lane.

CONTENTS INSIDER

7 The Shake-Ups Tari� s took center stage, while athletic fi rms’ culture issues were in the spotlight.

10 FN Spy The greatest moments from the 2018 FN Achievement Awards.

11 Stan’s Magic Why Adidas signed a lifetime deal with tennis legend Stan Smith.

12 Trade Show Talk The roster of important global dates to know for 2019.

14 FN Insights Sizing up the latest shoe-fi t technologies.

YEAR IN REVIEW

18 High Stakes The biggest moves in the athletic market.

21 Walk of Fame Stars who shone brightest on the red carpet.

22 Power Plays Seven surprising transitions in the corporate ranks.

23 Star Power The buzziest celebrity deals, from Cardi B to Kylie.

THE LIST

25 Shoe of the Week Antelope’s spring ’19 heel is very egg-citing.

26 Inspiration Point Indian culture is at the heart of a new women’s brand.

27 The Ross Posse Ross & Snow is making tracks in the aprés-ski market.

27 Five Questions A next-gen leader is continuing the George Cleverly legacy.

FN PICK

30 Power Tulle Jennifer Lopez stuns in a pink gown and Jimmy Choos.

1 7 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8

ON THE COVERPhotos: Gucci, Under Armour: courtesy of brands; all others: Shutterstock

The Top 10 Shoe trends that turned heads this year. Sculptural heels from Jacquemus

and more dominated the runways.

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footwearnews.com A sneak peek at some of our best upcoming content.

S T O R I E S

Nike storefront in Charlotte, N.C.

Adidas Pureboost trainer shoes

Balenciaga Triple S sneaker

Close-up of a Versace sandalfrom the spring ’19 runway

Jennifer Lopez at the “Second Act”

photo-call in Los Angeles

Vince CamutoAbrianna boots

How #MeToo A ected the IndustryWeek of Dec. 17Did #MeToo bring about change? From Nike to Under Armour, FN senior business editor Sheena Butler-Young looks at how consumer demands for transparency have influenced industry moves and company culture.

The Best Sales to Find Boots on ClearanceWeek of Dec. 17FN’s e-commerce editor com-piles a list of the best holiday sales from retailers such as Zappos and J.C. Penney to help you snap up boots at a deep discount.

The Prettiest Shoes of 2018Week of Dec. 24Eye-catching sculptural heels. Intricate lace-up sandals. Exquisitely embel-lished pumps. Stunning satin bejeweled boots. FN fashion editor Shannon Adducci rounds up the most striking shoes of the year.

Will the Dad Shoe Trend Continue in 2019?Week of Dec. 24The “ugly” sneaker not only took over the street-style scene but was also the No. 1 global best-seller in 2018, according to Lyst’s Year in Fashion report. FN senior athletic and outdoor editor Peter Verry explores whether the hype will die down next year.

Jennifer Lopez’s Buzziest Shoe Moments of the YearWeek of Dec. 24With a penchant for flair, Jennifer Lopez brought siz-zling looks throughout 2018. One such instance: Her flirty Valentino dress that she finished with Casadei thigh-high boots.

How to Make Boots Slip-ProofWeek of Dec. 31Smart hacks and DIY tips on winter-proofing your boots so you can navigate the slush and ice with ease.

The Sneakers to Help You Meet Your 2019 Fitness GoalsWeek of Dec. 31A new year inevitably brings new resolutions. Commit to a workout regimen with the aid of performance sneakers from Adidas, Nike and more.

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I N S I D E R

THE

How shoe companies shouldered #MeToo, tariffs, bankruptcies and activist investors in 2018.

By Sheena Butler-Young

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INSIDER8

Three issues the industry will keep its eyes on in 2019. By Sheena Butler-Young and Madeleine Streets

WHAT TO WATCH

INSIDER8

Three issues the industry will keep its eyes on in 2019. By Sheena Butler-Young and Madeleine Streets

WHAT TO WATCH

THE SUSTAINABILITY CONNECTIONFor several years, brands like

Allbirds and Brother Vellies — which made sustainability a part of their mission from the start —

have enjoyed marked success. But momentum among fashion and footwear players to be more eco-conscious received its second wind in 2018, with big names including Gucci, DVF, Coach, Michael Kors and Donna Karan all taking the

pledge to ditch fur. Fear around global warming and a need to please Gen Z and millennial customers’ demand for social responsibility will likely drive more fashion brands to place a heightened emphasis on being eco-friendly in the new year.

A PERMANENT HOME FOR TEMPORARY SPACESPop-up stores continued to thrive in 2018 as brands sought to create physical interactions with consumers

minus the strain of a 10-year lease. These stores double as publicity and as a testing ground for permanent locations, with brands able to sample neighborhoods and formats. In 2019, more pop-ups are expected to turn permanent as landlords look to convert short-term leases to long-term, while retail concepts that house a revolving suite of pop-ups will provide homes for the more experimental installations.

RAMPING UP SOCIALMegaretailers such as Walmart and Dick’s Sporting Goods stepped deeper into politics this year, with both fi rms taking a public stance on gun control following the high school shooting in Parkland,

Fla., in February. Toms founder Blake Mycoskie also joined the conversation, vowing last month that his company will put considerable fi nancial backing behind ending gun violence. In addition to Nike throwing support behind Colin Kaepernick, whose anthem-kneeling was perceived as having a political connection to the fi rst amendment, its CEO in October took a public stance against the repeal of a 30-year-old Oregon law that limits the use of state and local law enforcement resources to enforce federal immigration laws. Similar to sustainability, as younger consumers continue to demand activism from brands, 2019 will likely see more fi rms supporting social causes. Coach spring

‘19 collection

Nike, Under Armour and Adidas Grapple With Cultural ChallengesThree months into 2018, news circulated that two

of Nike’s most powerful executives had abruptly

departed the brand. As speculation built across the

industry, an April exposé by The New York Timespurported internal behavior challenges at the

company, including a “boys club” culture that left

female employees feeling disenfranchised. (The

revelations reportedly followed the circulation of a

survey among those women, who then routed the

feedback to CEO Mark Parker.)

All in all, the controversy would see about a

dozen high-profi le executive departures at the

Swoosh, which employs around 70,000 sta� ers.

For its part, Nike admitted that it had fallen short

in promoting women and people of color, and

in July, it announced a plan to raise salaries for

10 percent of its workforce to help correct pay

inequity. (Nike also won acclaim when it casted

polarizing ex-football player Colin Kaepernick —

who took a knee during the national anthem at

games to protest racial injustice — in its “Just Do

It” campaign in September. See page 18 for more.)

Still, at least two lawsuits and one complaint alleg-

ing race and gender discrimination with Oregon’s

Bureau of Labor and Industries would result from

the executive departures fallout.

In November, following a report in The Wall Street Journal that made known a yearslong prac-

tice of expensing visits to strip clubs on corporate

cards, Under Armour had its turn under the

#MeToo microscope.

In a letter obtained by FN, CEO Kevin Plank

and president Patrik Frisk told employees that the

WSJ report — which also alleged that top male

executives behaved inappropriately with female

subordinates and that women were invited to an

From female Nike staffers circulating an internal survey in hopes of boosting gender equity to major brands pulling the Chapter 11 trigger, 2018 marked a year of tough but meaningful change across the shoe industry. ➵ As digital integration became the new normal and earnings reports evidenced that previously challenged traditional retailers — Macy’s, DSW and Kohl’s among them — had found their om-nichannel stride, footwear’s key play-ers endured disruption of a new vari-ety. ➵ The downfall of mega big-screen producer Harvey Weinstein in late 2017 created a watershed moment for Hollywood that would, in effect, give birth to #MeToo as well as the Time’s Up initiative. As expected, the domino effect would hit a range of industries in 2018. ➵ In March, the movement — which emboldened women to speak out about instances of inequity, harass-ment and mistreatment at work — took aim at footwear’s athletic sector.

Nike CEO Mark Parker

How activist investors have upped the pressure for struggling retailers.By Hilary George-Parkin

STOCKS AND BONDS

Activist investors turned up the heat on several retailers this year, pushing for strategic change, new board members and, in some cases, corporate overhauls. Although retail has seen improvements overall, companies that have failed to keep up have been particularly ripe targets for these groups.

The trend seems likely to continue for the year ahead, as a recent survey of top activist investors found that they see more opportunity in the consumer discretionary sector, which includes retailers, than in any other industry.

Here’s how three companies dealt with activist investors in 2018.

HUDSON’S BAY CO.HBC’s ongoing high-profi le showdown

with Land and Buildings Investment Management LLC, the Stamford, Conn.-based hedge fund that as of last July held a nearly 5 percent stake in the company, showed no signs of slowing down. In November, Land and Buildings CEO Jonathan Litt wrote in a letter to shareholders, “[HBC] could see its share price double or triple if the company takes the necessary steps to maximize long-term shareholder value.” These steps include selling two of its retail holdings — Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor — as well as the remaining 50 percent stake it holds in its European business. HBC CEO Helena Foulkes, who joined the company in February, has already made signifi cant changes, including shepherding Lord & Taylor through the sale and closure of its Fifth Avenue fl agship in New York and shedding the struggling Gilt Groupe business. But according to Litt, more drastic moves are needed.

BIG 5 SPORTING GOODSA consortium of investors calling themselves The Concerned Shareholders of Big 5 Group has been on a quest to get the sporting goods

retailer to fi ll two vacant board seats with two of their own: Mel Redman, a former Walmart executive, and Je� Moore, a former Vans executive. With the retailer’s stock trading near historic lows and its management largely unchanged since it went public in 2002, the group has called for several sweeping changes, including marketing the company as an o� -

price chain rather than a generic sporting goods retailer; modernizing its promotional e� orts; increasing its focus on its most successful category, athletic footwear; and either selling the company to new owners or replacing its senior management. The group has threatened a takeover attempt or an appeal to the company’s shareholders if it doesn’t act soon.

GENESCOIn January, a pair of investment fi rms, Legion Partners Asset Management LLC and 4010 Capital LLC, acquired a combined 5.3 percent of the company — which owns retail chains Journeys and Lids — saying that the stock was “undervalued and represented an attractive investment opportunity.” With suggested organizational changes including selling the beleaguered Lids business, the activist investors said they believed they could stabilize the stock. Genesco in April agreed to add two seats to its board and remove one incumbent director. In exchange, the fi rms have agreed to vote for the company’s board candidates and not raise their stake to more than 10 percent.

INSIDER9

annual corporate event “based on their attractive-

ness to appeal to male guests” — was “tough to

read.” Plank further pledged that the company

“can and will do better.”

That same month, FN obtained a copy of a let-

ter addressed to Adidas North America president

Zion Armstrong.

The memo, purporting to represent the views

of minorities at the company, urged the new

leader to “diversify representation” in the fi rm’s

upper ranks, alleging racial and ethnic tensions

at the Germany-based brand. Speaking to FN,

several minority employees at the fi rm cited what

they see as cultural challenges at the company,

which had previously faced criticism for main-

taining its partnership with Kanye West after he

made controversial comments about slavery.

In response to the accusations about its treat-

ment of minority employees, Adidas told FN in a

statement that it is “committed to maintaining a

respectful and inclusive environment for all Adidas

employees around the world. It’s crucial that we

have and support a diverse workforce that repre-

sents a variety of ideas, strengths, interests and

cultural backgrounds.”

Tariff TalesA global back and forth — initiated by President

Donald Trump in March — has seen the U.S. slap

tari� s on $250 billion in Chinese imports this year,

while Beijing retaliated with levies on $110 billion

of American goods. Although a 90-day fi nancial

ceasefi re was announced this month — following

a meeting between Trump and Chinese President

Xi Jinping — it has not done much to quell the

anxieties of retailers, who have said they’re waiting

for the next shoe to drop.

PVH chairman and CEO Manny Chirico, for

example, warned in November that the global

clothing business — parent to Tommy Hilfi ger and

Calvin Klein — would have to raise prices to make

up for the mounting tari� s. Meanwhile, retail

behemoth Walmart and department store chain

J.C. Penney expressed their concerns in letters

addressed to U.S. Trade Representative Robert

Lighthizer in September. “Either consumers will

pay more, suppliers will receive less, retail margins

will be lower or consumers will buy fewer products

or forgo purchases altogether,” Walmart’s memo

read.

Gap, Columbia Sportswear, Vans and Steve

Madden have also indicated a need to drive up

costs due to tari� s — with the latter even looking

to shift production to Cambodia.

The stock market has also borne the pressures

of mounting trade war fears: The Dow, Nasdaq

and S&P 500 reversed their 2018 gains in recent

months as Trump fi red o� tweets referring to him-

self as “Tari� Man.”

Bankruptcies Rage OnIn previous years, footwear companies — save

Payless Shoesource in 2017 — were largely spared

from the wave of Chapter 11 fi lings. But 2018 was

the year the shoe industry joined the fray, with

Charlotte Olympia, The Walking Co., Nine West

Holdings Inc. and The Rockport Group among the

companies to seek bankruptcy court protection.

In February, a decade after British designer

Charlotte Dellal launched her whimsical footwear

label Charlotte Olympia, the company’s U.S. hold-

ing arm, Pinktoe Tarantula Ltd., fi led a Chapter

11 petition in Delaware. Still, a spokesperson for

the brand later told FN that despite shuttering its

retail stores in the U.S., Charlotte Olympia’s whole-

sale business remains intact.

Following months of speculation over its fi nan-

cial struggles resulting from a debt-laden private

equity buyout, Nine West Holdings Inc. in April

fi led for protection. Two months later, it sold o�

the Nine West and Bandolino brands to Authentic

Brands Group for $340 million at a bankruptcy

auction.

In March, comfort footwear maker The Walking

Co. took its fi nancial woes to bankruptcy court for

the second time in 10 years, citing the company’s

struggle to develop its brand between 2013 and

2017 amid the consumer shift to online spending.

Rockport, home to the Aravon, Dunham,

Rockport and Cobb Hill collections, fi led for

bankruptcy in May, blaming — among other things

— a timely and costly separation from previous

owner Adidas. When it fi led, the fi rm noted that it

entered into an asset purchase agreement with CB

Marathon Opco LLC, an a§ liate of Charlesbank

Capital Partners LLC, to acquire virtually all of

its assets.

On the retail side, Sears Holdings Corp. —

owner of the Kmart and Sears chains — and Bon-

Ton Stores Inc. also submitted bankruptcy court

declarations in 2018.

“Either consumers will pay more, suppliers will receive

less ... or consumers will buy fewer products or forgo

purchases altogether.”

Lord & Taylor’sFifth Avenue fl agship

is shutting down

Spy

INSIDERINSIDER10

8 Showstopping Moments from

the 2018 FN Achievement

AwardsBy FN Sta�

1 Mr. Bruce Live!Retail legend Bruce Nordstrom was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award by his son Erik Nordstrom as dozens of other family members and teammates looked on. “I’m a shoe dog. I say that with all my heart. That doesn’t sound like a complimentary title, but that’s me,” Nordstrom said onstage.

2 Family MattersChristie Brinkley and daughters Alexa Ray Joel and Sailor Brinkley-Cook were the perfect recipients for FN’s fi rst multigenerational Style Infl uencer Award — and the trio had an unforget-table moment onstage. After being feted by son/brother Jack Brinkley Cook and his girlfriend, model Nina Agdal, Sailor told a story that reminded everyone in the audience about how fashion can be a force for good. She recalled how she spent Thanksgiving giving out donations to the homeless and met a woman who changed something in her. When Sailor asked her what she could do to help, the woman replied, “I just want to feel beautiful and fabulous again.” In response, Sailor gave her a makeover and outfi tted her with new clothes. “She was so happy. She just started cry-ing,” Sailor explained onstage. “She was so grateful to be able to feel that again, to be able to own that identity that fashion gives you and that I think I take for granted every day.”

3Story TimeVogue editor-in-chief and Condé Nast artistic direc-tor Anna Wintour made a buzzed-about appear-

Amina Muaddi

(L-R): Christie Brinkley,Alexa Ray Joel & Sailor Brinkley-Cook

Kerby Jean-Raymond

Chloe Gosselin (L) & Diane von Furstenberg

Bruce Nordstrom

ance to pres-ent Tabitha Simmons with the Designer of the Year Award. Before that, how-ever, Wintour shared a

personal story about the time Simmons would go clubbing in a pair of ice skates. Wintour said, “[It’s] no surprise that Tabitha became an extraordinary shoe designer.”

4Taking ChancesKerby Jean-Raymond, founder and creative director

of Pyer Moss, who won an FN Achieve-ment Award for his Reebok by Pyer Moss collabora-

tion, expressed the need for companies to look outside the box for rising talent. He said, “There are so many people that look like me, and there are so many kids that come from my background that are equally as talented who are not given the opportunity … and everyone in this room has the ability to reach down — just reach down — and you’ll be surprised what you fi nd.”

5Game TimeBaker Mayfi eld gave the room a laugh when he shared a remark about

Diane Sullivan, to whom he presented FN’s Person of the Year award. “Here’s the last thing she said to me: ‘Really, I wanted a handsome young man to present me with this award — but Tom Brady wasn’t available,’” the Cleveland Browns quarterback joked.

6 Humble BeginningsWhile accepting the award for Launch of the Year, Amina Muaddi couldn’t help but get emotional. She said, “For a girl who comes where I come from — I’m half Jordanian and half Romanian — to be here, to be able to live my dreams and inspire Middle Eastern

women to live their own dreams and be able to dress women I could

have never imagined I’d be able to dress,

it’s an honor.”

7 NewcomersWhile Pierre Hardy, Marc Fisher and Peter Harris

were inducted into the FN Hall of Fame, this year’s

Achievement Awards also honored two emerging talents: Mike Amiri and Chloe Gosselin. Both were beyond proud to accept their awards on behalf of their blossoming compa-nies. Said Amiri, “It’s a bunch of losses that give you the experience to add up the wins, and it’s sometimes those wins that give you the extra energy to go to the next level, so this

means so much to me.” Diane von Furstenberg was on hand to present

Gosselin with her award, and the industry legend called the rising star “the most lovely and beautiful person.” Gosselin said, “I want to thank all the women out there who are wearing my shoes.

I know that you’re fi erce, full of dreams and ambition, and I’m honored that you’re choosing to walk through life

in my creations.”

8 Giving BackMartha Stewart recounted the history of FFANY Shoes on Sale as she presented the charity and its partner, QVC, with the Icon Award for Philanthropy. She praised the organization, which has raised $55 million, saying: “This funding at the spark of an idea is the hardest research to get funding for, but it creates game-changing results. … As we mark the 25th anniversary, the industry stops to recognize this iconic e£ ort.”

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Martha Stewart

Baker Mayfi eld & Diane Sullivan

Tabitha Simmons (L) & Anna Wintour

tan Smith is now an Adidas ambas-

sador for life — and it’s not hard

to see why the athletic giant would

make this kind of bet.

The brand announced late last week that the

retired athlete, a force on tennis courts in the

1970s and ’80s, will be permanently aligned with

the Three Stripes.

While his athletic career was stellar, Smith is

widely known for endorsing arguably the brand’s

most important sneaker of all time, which bears

his name. (The association prompted him to title

his 2018 book “Some People Think I’m a Shoe.”)

The Adidas Stan Smith has all the makings

of an undeniable classic: It’s one of the brand’s

best-selling shoes, it’s affordable to most, it can be

dressed up or down, and sneaker fans young and

old adore the silhouette.

And the brand’s beloved ambassador is aware

of the silhouette’s far-reaching impact.

“The shoe is widely bought around the world,

and my hope is that it could be looked at as a

unifying factor, a commonality of people around

the world,” Smith told FN last year on receiving

FN’s Lifetime Achievement Award. “People are

more alike than they are different. If everyone

could realize that, ultimately we could get more

people to be peaceful toward different cultures,

backgrounds, languages.”

However, experts believe the shoe’s impact

alone on sneaker culture isn’t why Smith’s lifetime

deal is important. Matt Powell, senior sports indus-

try adviser for The NPD Group Inc., explained that

labels are seeing value in celebrating the iconic

ambassadors that made them relevant.

“We’re starting to see more and more brands

looking back at their endorsers from the past

and honoring them,” Powell said. “It’s much more

about honoring the legacy of what the athlete has

brought to the brand.”

Adidas isn’t alone in offering lifetime deals

with star athletes. Fila, for example, announced

in October that basketball Hall of Famer Grant

Hill will be aligned with the label for life. And

Puma did something similar with NBA great Walt

“Clyde” Frazier in June. (Nike led the way with

lifetime deals for active athletes LeBron James and

Cristiano Ronaldo in 2016.)

What Smith brought to Adidas, according

to Powell, is a narrative that resonates with

consumers today.

“He gives them a lot of authenticity and

credibility,” Powell said. “There’s an authenticity

story here, and stories are important today in the

sneaker market. You can’t just put a shoe out —

you’ve got to have a whole dialogue, if you will, of

why this shoe is important and what it means.”

Powell continued, “The shoe has been around

for years, and it’s still a great shoe. It really is a

classic, and it’s never going to go away. It makes

perfect sense to utilize him in this way.”

The secret to this legend’s success with Adidas? Being authentic. By Peter Verry

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Inside Stan Smith’s Life-time Deal With Adidas

StanSmith

UA.COM/BASKETBALL

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JANUARY

Pitti Uomo Jan. 8-11Fortezza da BassoFlorence, Italy

CouromodaJan. 14-17Expo Centre NorteSão Paolo, Brazil

ExpoRivaSchuhJan. 14-17Riva del Garda Exhibi-tion CenterRiva del Garda, Italy

MosShoesJan. 15-17Crocus ExpoMoscow

Pitti BimboJan. 17-19 Fortezza da BassoFlorence, Italy

FEBRUARY India International Leather FairFeb. 1-3Chennai Trade CentreChennai, India

ISPOFeb. 3-6Messe MünchenMunich

The Micam Feb. 10-13Fiera Milano RhoMilan

LineapelleFeb. 20-22 Fiera Milano RhoMilan

MARCH Première ClasseMarch 1-4 Jardin des TuileriesParis

Gallery ShoesMarch 10-12 Areal BöhlerDüsseldorf, Germany

SapicaMarch 12-15Poliforum LeónLeón, Mexico

MosShoesMarch 13-15Crocus ExpoMoscow

Fashion Access/APLFMarch 13-15Hong Kong Convention CenterHong Kong

JUNE Pitti UomoJune 11-14Fortezza da BassoFlorence, Italy

Pitti BimboJune 20-22 Fortezza da BassoFlorence, Italy

International AgendaA schedule of the global trade shows for the first half of 2019.

Visitors at Pitti Uomo 94

Pitti Uomo 94

12

Untitled-1 1 12/10/18 11:35 AM

FN INSIGHTS: TECHNOLOGY BY MADELEINE STREETS

Sizing Up the MarketHow the makers of footwear scanners are helping retailers stand out from online competitors — and offer better-fitting shoes along the way.

S ixteen years ago, Aetrex began develop-

ing scanner software that would help

explain unexpected foot pain and allow

patients to receive better-fi tting orthotics. But

these early scanners were often relegated to the

o� ces of podiatrists or foot care specialists — not

footwear retailers.

In recent years, though, the market began

to change.

Consumers continue to demand better cus-

tomization and comfort from products across the

board — from footwear to adjustable mattresses.

What’s more, shoppers are increasingly turning

to the fi tness and wellness markets, which

require accessories for fi t and performance.

Lastly, there is pressure for stores to become

more interactive to draw in customers.

The new 3-D foot scanners address these

issues. Alongside Aetrex and its newest Albert

scanner, Swedish startup Volumental and mul-

ticompany collaboration HP Fitstation have

entered the market to set a new standard for

footwear fi t.

“Most retailers need something like this

— they need to di� erentiate their business,”

said Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex. “They’re

looking for technologies that can help them

provide a di� erent service that a customer

can’t get from buying on Amazon.”

Each technology has its own characteristics,

but the underlying format is simple: A scan of

the foot is taken in seconds, with accompany-

ing software quickly translating the data into

key metrics, from arch height to pronation.

The gait analysis function of the Aetrex and

Fitstation scanners also shows exactly how a

customer moves and where he or she needs

support, without requiring running on a

treadmill. This information can then be used to

generate footwear recommendations, custom-

ize insoles or other orthotics — and eventually

create entirely customized footwear.

“In a 30-second process, you can capture

everything possible that you need to know about

the foot,” Schwartz explained.

The sports industry was the fi rst to embrace

the technology at scale. Skate brand Bauer has

partnered with Volumental to create its 3D

Skate Lab for better recommendations in retail

locations across the globe and now, with 70

percent of the global market share for hockey

equipment, also o� ers full skate customiza-

tion based on a shopper’s 3-D scans. Swapping

skates for cleats, the NFL has partnered with PH

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Why a Perfect Fit Matters for Retailers

3-D scanning is more than just a fun technology experience for the consumer. By investing in more accurate measurements and recommendations, retailers stand to reap the fi nancial rewards.

$260 billion+The amount of money lost by retailers every year due to merchandise returns

and customer dissatisfaction

$1,200 vs.

$7,0005%The attachment rate for custom products when a consumer gets scanned by HP

Fitstation

HP Fitstation includesgait pattern capture

Scans combine volumetric and biometric data

14

SOLE ESSENTIALSThe latest styles and hottest trends:

A product showcase from FN’s Partners

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FORWARD. VERSATILE. LUXE.

2019

footwear

HP Fitstation to have each of its

pro athletes scanned to select the

best-fi tting cleats from an o� cial

approved selection.

“Athletics is the most obvious

area to go to fi rst because they’re

the most demanding on their

feet,” said Rebecca Nelson, mar-

keting and communications

manager at Volumental. “But

everyone has a story about

their feet hurting at some point,

whether it’s from poorly fi tting sneakers or

forcing your feet into beautiful heels that are

the wrong size.”

The makers of 3-D scanners hope to address

the lack of true standard sizing in the footwear

industry. Recommendations are crafted by

scanning a variety of shoe brands and styles,

and then comparing these with the individual

foot scans. For many people, they might wear

a 10.5 in one style, a 10 in another and an 11

in a separate brand’s product. With the scan,

customers won’t need to try three sizes to fi nd

the right one — it will tell which one fi ts best.

This innovation doesn’t just work for the

consumer. With more accurate data, manufac-

turers can create orthotics and even shoes with

less waste than they would with approximate

data from foam box fi ttings. On the retail side,

collecting this data allows businesses to make

better recommendations to their customers,

both in-store and afterward through targeted

emails and campaigns.

“We’re not a product; we’re a platform,” said

Sarah Clevinger, senior business development

and strategic partnership manager at HP. “We

provide the technology to the brands and to

the retailers, but it’s not about HP having its

own footwear company; it’s about changing

the industry and creating something that’s bet-

ter for the customer.”

Applications for the collected data are

still being developed, as is the software itself.

Aetrex and HP Fitstation both o� er custom-

ized insoles, but fully customized shoes aren’t

far behind; Brooks will release its customiz-

able Genesys sneaker in partnership with

Fitstation next year. At Volumental, which has

amassed nearly 2 million individual scans,

the focus is on using the data to overhaul the

landscape of footwear.

“We view it as a revolution in retail,”

said Nelson. “We view ourselves as part of

that revolution.”

The Albert scanneruses 18 built-in

cameras in each scan

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$1,200 vs.

$7,000

The price of design-ing a customized shoe using 3-D

scans and printing vs. a traditionally

manufactured last

+/- 1 mmThe degree of accuracy o� ered

by these scanners

FN_P015.indd 1 12/13/18 3:46 PMUntitled-2 2 12/13/18 3:58 PM

FN INSIGHTS: TECHNOLOGY BY MADELEINE STREETS

Sizing Up the MarketHow the makers of footwear scanners are helping retailers stand out from online competitors — and offer better-fitting shoes along the way.

S ixteen years ago, Aetrex began develop-

ing scanner software that would help

explain unexpected foot pain and allow

patients to receive better-fi tting orthotics. But

these early scanners were often relegated to the

o� ces of podiatrists or foot care specialists — not

footwear retailers.

In recent years, though, the market began

to change.

Consumers continue to demand better cus-

tomization and comfort from products across the

board — from footwear to adjustable mattresses.

What’s more, shoppers are increasingly turning

to the fi tness and wellness markets, which

require accessories for fi t and performance.

Lastly, there is pressure for stores to become

more interactive to draw in customers.

The new 3-D foot scanners address these

issues. Alongside Aetrex and its newest Albert

scanner, Swedish startup Volumental and mul-

ticompany collaboration HP Fitstation have

entered the market to set a new standard for

footwear fi t.

“Most retailers need something like this

— they need to di� erentiate their business,”

said Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex. “They’re

looking for technologies that can help them

provide a di� erent service that a customer

can’t get from buying on Amazon.”

Each technology has its own characteristics,

but the underlying format is simple: A scan of

the foot is taken in seconds, with accompany-

ing software quickly translating the data into

key metrics, from arch height to pronation.

The gait analysis function of the Aetrex and

Fitstation scanners also shows exactly how a

customer moves and where he or she needs

support, without requiring running on a

treadmill. This information can then be used to

generate footwear recommendations, custom-

ize insoles or other orthotics — and eventually

create entirely customized footwear.

“In a 30-second process, you can capture

everything possible that you need to know about

the foot,” Schwartz explained.

The sports industry was the fi rst to embrace

the technology at scale. Skate brand Bauer has

partnered with Volumental to create its 3D

Skate Lab for better recommendations in retail

locations across the globe and now, with 70

percent of the global market share for hockey

equipment, also o� ers full skate customiza-

tion based on a shopper’s 3-D scans. Swapping

skates for cleats, the NFL has partnered with PH

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Why a Perfect Fit Matters for Retailers

3-D scanning is more than just a fun technology experience for the consumer. By investing in more accurate measurements and recommendations, retailers stand to reap the fi nancial rewards.

$260 billion+The amount of money lost by retailers every year due to merchandise returns

and customer dissatisfaction

$1,200 vs.

$7,0005%The attachment rate for custom products when a consumer gets scanned by HP

Fitstation

HP Fitstation includesgait pattern capture

Scans combine volumetric and biometric data

14

SOLE ESSENTIALSThe latest styles and hottest trends:

A product showcase from FN’s Partners

ADVERTISEMENT

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FN_DEC_SOLEESSENTIALS_QT.indd 1 12/11/18 4:24 PM

FORWARD. VERSATILE. LUXE.

2019

footwear

HP Fitstation to have each of its

pro athletes scanned to select the

best-fi tting cleats from an o� cial

approved selection.

“Athletics is the most obvious

area to go to fi rst because they’re

the most demanding on their

feet,” said Rebecca Nelson, mar-

keting and communications

manager at Volumental. “But

everyone has a story about

their feet hurting at some point,

whether it’s from poorly fi tting sneakers or

forcing your feet into beautiful heels that are

the wrong size.”

The makers of 3-D scanners hope to address

the lack of true standard sizing in the footwear

industry. Recommendations are crafted by

scanning a variety of shoe brands and styles,

and then comparing these with the individual

foot scans. For many people, they might wear

a 10.5 in one style, a 10 in another and an 11

in a separate brand’s product. With the scan,

customers won’t need to try three sizes to fi nd

the right one — it will tell which one fi ts best.

This innovation doesn’t just work for the

consumer. With more accurate data, manufac-

turers can create orthotics and even shoes with

less waste than they would with approximate

data from foam box fi ttings. On the retail side,

collecting this data allows businesses to make

better recommendations to their customers,

both in-store and afterward through targeted

emails and campaigns.

“We’re not a product; we’re a platform,” said

Sarah Clevinger, senior business development

and strategic partnership manager at HP. “We

provide the technology to the brands and to

the retailers, but it’s not about HP having its

own footwear company; it’s about changing

the industry and creating something that’s bet-

ter for the customer.”

Applications for the collected data are

still being developed, as is the software itself.

Aetrex and HP Fitstation both o� er custom-

ized insoles, but fully customized shoes aren’t

far behind; Brooks will release its customiz-

able Genesys sneaker in partnership with

Fitstation next year. At Volumental, which has

amassed nearly 2 million individual scans,

the focus is on using the data to overhaul the

landscape of footwear.

“We view it as a revolution in retail,”

said Nelson. “We view ourselves as part of

that revolution.”

The Albert scanneruses 18 built-in

cameras in each scan

PH

OTO

S: C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F C

OM

PAN

IES

$1,200 vs.

$7,000

The price of design-ing a customized shoe using 3-D

scans and printing vs. a traditionally

manufactured last

+/- 1 mmThe degree of accuracy o� ered

by these scanners

FN_P015.indd 1 12/13/18 3:46 PMUntitled-2 3 12/13/18 3:58 PM

Get In Front of the Industry’s Finest

The Tradeshow Issues

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The Atlanta Shoe Market,

MICAM, Children’s Great

Event Shoe Show

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F R O M M E M O R A B L E C E L E B R I T Y PA R T N E R S H I P S A N D S C E N E- S T E A L I N G R E D CA R P E T L O O K S T O H E AV Y- H I T T I N G S N E A K E R L A U N C H E S A N D

U N E X P E C T E D I N D U S T RY M OV E S , F N S I Z E S U P T H E B I G M O M E N T S T H AT S H A P E D T H E F O O T W E A R I N D U S T RY.

B y F N S T A F F

HIGH STAKESAT H L E T I C B RA N DS CO N T I N U E D TO U P T H E A N T E I N A N A L R E A DY S I Z Z L I N G S ECTO R .

B y P e t e r V e r r y

Colin Kaepernick’s ReturnFormer San Francisco 49ers quarterback Colin Kaepernick has arguably made more headlines o� the fi eld fi ghting for social justice than he ever

did on it. The polarizing ex-football player, whose anthem-kneeling protest generated both acclaim and outrage, was the star in Nike’s “Just Do It” 30th anniversary campaign, a move that marked the latest testament to his ability to make waves. Though largely applauded — Nike reportedly scored major digital sales gains and raised its clout among key constitu-

ents — his inclusion received its share of criticism, with President Donald Trump among the campaign’s biggest detractors.

Losing SteamMaybe it’s Kanye West’s contro-

versial political views or perhaps it’s a change in fashion tastes, but momentum surrounding

the once red-hot Yeezy franchise appeared to cool o� in 2018. The year marked the fi rst time Adidas mass-produced a style, the Sep-

tember release of the Yeezy Boost 350 V2 “Triple White,” which

was still widely available a week after its release date. Subsequent drops from West and Adidas also

sat on shelves.

Los Angeles State of Mind

There are plenty of reasons to move to L.A.: the sun, the palm trees and the relaxed vibe. But top boutiques this year gave

sneaker fans another reason to love the city. Kith and Bodega opened in the City of Angels

in February and March, respec-tively, and Sweden standout Sneakersnstu� announced in September it would open a

Venice Beach door in January.

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Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 V2“Sesame”

Bodega’s newL.A. store

Colin Kaepernick in the Nike “Just Do It” campaign

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Watch the ThroneHistorically, basketball lovers had not been able to get

their hands on the player’s edition sneakers NBA super-star LeBron James has worn on the court. That changed in January when Nike and King James unveiled LeBron

Watch, making select PEs available on the SNKRS app the moment he rocked them during game action.

The Rise of Smaller Brands

Athletic giants Nike and Adidas have long held the largest shares

of the athletic market, but when it comes to buzz, 2018 was owned by smaller brands. Fila enjoyed a re-surgence, thanks to heritage styles (including FN’s Shoe of the year, the Disruptor 2), Greats opened its fi rst brick-and-mortar stores, and collaborators such as Gary Vaynerchuk and Anwar Carrots

boosted K-Swiss’ profi le.

Rookie YearThe basketball shoe market is

struggling, but one could not tell by looking at the sheer number of brands clamoring to get back into the category. Puma led the push in June, returning to the

game after 20 years, introducing a new performance sneaker (Clyde Court) and signing four rookies

ahead of the NBA Draft. Converse followed in November when it

added Kelly Oubre Jr. of the Washington Wiz-

ards to its ambassador roster. That same

month, New Balance signed NBA cham-

pion Kawhi Leonard to

a deal.

Deal of a LifetimeIt’s been years since NBA greats

Grant Hill and Walt “Clyde” Frazier stepped onto the court

— or tennis star Stan Smith held a racket — but they’re all still get-ting checks from the brands they wore during their playing days. In 2018, all three signed lifetime deals — a rare o� ering received

by only a handful of athletes — with Fila, Puma and Adidas,

respectively.

19

Grant Hill

NBA rookie DeAndreAyton in Puma

Fila Disruptor 2

Nike LeBron 15 “Gri� ey”

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THE TOP 10S H O E T R E N DS O F 201 8

CAKESTAND HEELS

Curved heels with an exaggerated pedestal shape were a signature style for luxury newcomer Sies Marjan, but they also made an appearance at Miu Miu and in

Amina Muaddi’s new line.

COMFORT TOOK OVER

Last year, Crocs; this year, Birken-stocks. Comfort brands continued

to climb, with Birkenstock appearing at Pitti Uomo and part-

nering again with Rick Owens.

URBAN COWGIRLModifi ed Western boots ruled fall ’18 runways at brands like

Tibi, Coach and Fendi. The latter did it in colorful embossed croc

with a carved wooden heel.

JEWELRY SHOES Crystal and pearl embellishments added plenty of sparkle this year. Aquazzura even collaborated with fi ve jewelry designers for a daz-

zling Net-a-Porter capsule.

HAUTE HIKERS

Hot on the heels of the dad sneaker trend was a modi-fi ed runway hiker,

which mixed outdoor footwear

elements with more fashion-

forward details, like Gucci’s

Flashtrek sneaker with a removable crystal harness.

THE DAD SNEAKER REIGNED

Balenciaga’s Triple S may have debuted in 2017, but there was no

stopping it in 2018. The brand introduced a follow-up, the Trek, for fall ’18, but it was the original that dominated street style — and

became the biggest love-hate trend of the year.

HEEL AS SCULPTURE

In 2018, many designers paid more attention to the heel than

the toe, with sculptural geometric shapes at Jacquemus, Cult Gaia,

Gray Matters and more.

MULE-ING IT OVER Easy on, easy o� . The ubiquitous mule style

had a slipperlike informality, but adding heels, feathers or bejeweled toes (like Giannico’s for

fall ’18) provided signature luxe looks.

WHITEOUT The 2017 trend was one of the

biggest carryover colors of 2018, and many retailers continued to stock white boots and pumps as

a staple shoe in addition to black. Here, Givenchy’s bootie from

fall ’18 added lightness to a fi lm-noir runway.

PVC-THRU Chanel’s clear rainboots kicked

o� a PVC craze that came to include all types of shoes, from

the pragmatic to the not-so-practical, as shown on Balmain’s

fall ’18 runway.

WALK OF

FAMET H E M OST I N S P I R I N G A N D S H OWSTO P P I N G

C E L E B R I T Y R E D CA R P E T M O M E N TS.

B y N i k a r a J o h n s

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Golden Globes BlackoutA sea of ebony dresses fl ooded the red carpet at the 2018 Golden Globe Awards in January. At the height of the #MeToo movement and Time’s Up initiative, women in Hollywood stood in solidarity against sexual harassment and gender inequality

by embracing an uno� cial all-black dress code.

Panther Power

Marvel’s “Black Panther” was a box o� ce smash

that sent a powerful mes-sage about diversity in

fi lm. At the Los Angeles premiere in January,

Lupita Nyong’o stunned in a Versace gown and Giuseppe Zanotti heels.

Blake Lively

For her “A Simple Favor” press tour, Lively stayed on-

theme, channeling the main character’s suit

ensembles paired with her go-to Christian Louboutin heels.

Ezra Miller

Miller’s edgy fashion choices are hard to miss. The Moncler x

Pierpaolo Piccioli look the actor wore at a

fi lm premiere in Paris in November was

no exception.

Cardi B

The “Invasion of Privacy” rapper’s biggest red car-pet moment came at the American Music Awards

in October, when she wore a standout Dolce & Gabbana fl oral gown and

platform heels.

Priyanka Chopra

After she turned heads at the 2018 Met Gala in May

wearing Ralph Lauren, who would have known the designer would be

making Priyanka Chopra’s wedding gown just seven

months later?

Lady Gaga

The singer made her big-screen debut with her critically acclaimed

performance in “A Star Is Born.” She looked the part in August

at the Venice International Film Festival premiere, where she wore Valentino and the cast received an

8-minute standing ovation.

THE ROYAL TREATMENTO� the red carpet, it was across the pond where style soared most this year, thanks in no small part to Meghan Markle. The Duchess of Sussex earned her new title after marrying Prince Harry in May. Since then, her royal looks, which have consisted of mixing high and low fashion, have gained global attention. Her

go-to shoe designers have includ-ed Manolo Blahnik, Aquazzura and Tabitha Simmons, as well as new additions such as Veja and Rothy’s. Kate Middleton has also had her fair share of fashion’s focus this year after giving birth to her third child in April. She has stepped out in many sleek looks including that memorable

Pantone color of the year, Ultra Violet, Emilia Wickstead dress and Gianvito Rossi pumps. Queen Elizabeth II gets a notable mention, too. The 92-year-old stole the show at London Fashion Week in February when she made a surprise appearance in the front row for British designer Richard Quinn's runway show.

(L-R): Laura Dern, Nicole Kidman, Zoe KravitzReese Witherspoon and Shailene Woodley

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GOAT and Flight Club Form Mega Sneaker MarketplaceIn February, rare-footwear outlets GOAT and Flight Club joined forces to form what they have dubbed “the world’s largest sneaker mar-ketplace.” Together, the pair boasts 7 million-plus members with more than 400,000 individual listings.

Farfetch Buys Stadium Goods This month, Farfetch announced its plans to acquire kicks vendor Stadium Goods for an enterprise value of $250 million.

Richemont Takes Over Yoox Net-a-PorterCompagnie Financière Richemont in January o� ered 2.69 billion euros, or $3.3 billion, to buy all remaining shares in Yoox Net-a-Porter SpA. Richemont said in May that it had secured 94.99 percent of YNAP’s ordinary shares.

Bankrupt Nine West Finds Savior in ABGNine West Holdings Inc. and Authentic Brands Group con-fi rmed in June that the latter became the new owner of Nine West and Bandolino after a bank-ruptcy auction in which ABG cast the winning o� er of $340 million.

Michael Kors Nabs Versace in Blockbuster DealIn a bid to expand into a larger luxury conglomerate, Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. put up $2.12 billion to buy all outstanding shares of Gianni Versace SpA in September. It pits the company — which has been renamed Capri Holdings Ltd. — against major European players LVMH Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton and Kering. (Kors also procured Jimmy Choo in 2017.)

ABG, DSW Partner for Camuto BuyoutDSW and Authentic Brands Group announced in October an unorthodox merger. The former, a retailer, and the latter, a brand management fi rm, would partner to snap up Camuto Group for $375 million.

Caleres Adds VionicMonths after acquiring a control-ling interest in Blowfi sh Malibu, Caleres nabbed burgeoning label Vionic for $360 million in October. The brand logged trailing 12-month sales of $180 million.

Industry Veteran Rick Ausick Exits Famous Footwear

After four decades in the industry, Rick Ausick announced

his retirement as president of Caleres-owned Famous Footwear

in January. Molly Adams, formerly the EVP of global merchandising and product development at The Walt Disney Co., was named the new president of the St. Louis-

based store chain in May.

HBC Taps First Female CEO

In February, HBC hired Helena Foulkes as its fi rst woman CEO. She hailed from pharmacy chain CVS, from which she made two

hires post-arrival: Bari Harlam as HBC marketing chief and Stephen

Gold as chief technology and digital operations o� cer.

Nike Marred by a Dozen Exec Departures

Nike CEO Mark Parker assumed the role of president after Trevor Edwards resigned in March. An exposé in April contributed to 11 or so executive exits — includ-ing Jayme Martin, VP and GM

of global categories, and Antoine Andrews, VP of diversity and in-clusion. The fi rm has since added

more women to its top ranks.

Tapestry Makes Major Hires for Kate Spade and

Stuart WeitzmanAnna Bakst took Kate Spade's

top post in March. Ex-Salvatore Ferragamo chief Eraldo Poletto

was named CEO and president of Stuart Weitzman in April. A month

later, Stuart Weitzman creative director Giovanni Morelli resigned

over misconduct allegations.

Louis Vuitton Finds a Sartorial

Hero in Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh became artistic direc-tor of Louis Vuitton Homme in

March. (Former creative head Kim Jones moved to Dior Homme.) The founder of cult-favorite O� -White,

Abloh presented his fi rst collec-tion during Men’s Fashion Week

in Paris in the summer.

Adidas Bids Adieu to 35-Year

Company VeteranMark King, who had served as the president of Adidas North America since 2014, passed the torch to Zion Armstrong, who

took on the new position in July. King had spent 35 years at Adidas, where he began his

career as a sales representative, and took on his last role in

June 2014.

JC Penney SeeksProgress With

Jill Soltau After a four-month search, JC Penney tapped former Jo-Ann Stores CEO Jill Soltau to helm its business. The 30-year retail

veteran succeeded Marvin Ellison, who departed from the post in June to lead Lowe’s. JC Penney

is the latest in a slew of fashion-related companies that have hired

female leaders in the past year.

POWER PLAYSF RO M A D I DAS TO TA P EST RY, T H ES E W E R E

T H E B I G G EST CO M I N GS A N D G O I N GS I N T H E FAS H I O N A N D FO OT W E A R I N D UST RY.

B y S a m a n t h a M c D o n a l d

MERGER MANIA A roundup of the deals that gener-ated the most industry chatter this year.

Kylie Jenner x Adidas

Kylie Jenner joined the Adidas team in August,

and her fi rst line of business was to promote the ’90s-inspired Falcon

sneaker. The makeup mogul starred in the fall ’18 ad campaign for the new women’s

silhouette and contin-ues to rep the brand on

social media.Post Malone x Crocs

The rapper collaborated with Crocs on two limited-

edition clog styles, and both sold out in 10 minutes. Even

Madonna wanted a pair.

Kendrick Lamar x Nike Kendrick Lamar released his fi rst Nike sneakers in January, featuring embroidery inspired by his “Damn” album. They quickly sold out and even resold for fi ve times their origi-nal price. The rapper's popular “House Shoes” Cortez Slip

dropped in October, and the Cortez Kenny 3 landed in May.

Cardi B x Reebok

The partnership between the heritage sneaker brand and the wildly

popular rapper was an-nounced in November. The deal sees Cardi B

promoting the ’90s throw-back Aztrek sneaker as well as Reebok apparel.

The Rock x Under Armour Since they teamed up in 2016, Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has collaborated on several

colorways of Under Armour’s Delta training sneaker.

In May, the brand fi nally launched his signature shoe, the Project Rock 1, which has

been released in multiple color schemes throughout the year. Its fi rst drop sold out in

30 minutes.

Selena Gomez x Puma

Selena Gomez’s fi rst collection with Puma launched this month and included a brand-new Puma sneaker silhouette called the SG

Runner. While her line comprises athleisure and training gear,

Gomez wanted to make sure the collection was empowering. The word “strength” appears on every

piece of the assortment.

STAR POWERT H E C E L E B R I T Y S H O E PA RT N E RS H I PS T H AT

M A D E T H E M OST N O I S E .

B y N i k a r a J o h n s

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23

Your Key to Everything Happening in Vegas

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This spring, Antelope is performing a delicate balancing act. Known for using natural elements, the brand has embraced the beauty and simplicity of the egg. The oval shape has been wrapped in layers of wood, then turned into a comfortable walking heel for an unexpected twist on a slingback sandal.

SHAPE WEAR01/Shoeof the Week

2626 FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

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Nature has played a major role in Ekta Sethi’s vision for Rungg Shoes, which launched in the U.S. for spring ’17. The brand, which mixes the culture and heritage of India with fashion and comfort trends, is also eco-friendly: The designs are made from vegan leather and are PETA-approved. But Sethi also looks to the earth and sky when crafting her artisan line. “Nature’s magnanimity has always been a source of inspiration,” she said. “Every bit of our collection is nature’s souvenir. My core inspiration is the environment and my desire to enhance everything that surrounds me.” One style, named Morning Glory, for

instance, takes cues from sunfl ower fi elds, Sethi said. Another look, called Radiance, is inspired by the “swirls of galaxies across the night,” she said. The designer explained, “I attempt to bring the freshness and happiness of nature’s magnifi cence to my customer through my designs. The latest are art forms of nature or monuments that I see around and that touch my heart or make me smile. Life passes us by, and we seldom stop to enjoy the spectacle around us.” The Rungg Shoes collection consists of fl ats, wedges and small heels that are available on the brand’s e-commerce site starting at $150.

For her creative vision, the co-founder and chief designer of Rungg Shoes draws on elements of the earth and the sky. By Nikara Johns

EKTA SETHI

02/Inspiration Point

Spring ’19 Morning Glory mule

“I attempt to bring the

freshness and happiness

of nature’s magnificence

to my customer through my

designs.”

Radiance mule for spring ’19

Embroidered fabricfrom India

2727FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

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1Now that you’ve taken a larger role at the family-run brand, what’s the most important lesson your father has shared with you? “He comes into the o� ce most days and loves to see cli-ents. For him, it’s never been about the money but always a passion for the business. He’s always had me focus on the product, fi t and customer service. Do all of those things correctly and customers will keep coming back. I try to fol-low his advice every day.”

2George Cleverly boasts a number of celebrity clients. What is it about the product that continues to interest them?“We’ve always had a strong connection to Hollywood, from Cary Grant to Fred Astaire, and today attract even more from all di� erent aspects of the world. Clients like Jason Statham, Sly Stallone, Colin Firth, Hugh Grant and so on are very stylish guys, and they want the best. Once a person [rises] to a certain level, he learns about brands that are of high quality, and we’re easily found at that point. Plus, we’re a founding partner of Mr Por-ter’s ‘Kingsman’ apparel and footwear collection, inspired by the fi lm, which certainly helps.”

GEORGE GLASGOW JR.The CEO and creative director of British men’s brand George Cleverly & Co. on continuing a legacy and keeping up with the royals.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

04/ Five Questions

3Has the growing buzz around the British royal family increased consumer interest in heritage brands like yours? “The young royals are doing a great job for British style and increasing awareness of British products, for sure. However, since the early 1970s, we’ve been using rein-deer hides [recovered] from a brigantine 1786 shipwreck o� England’s Plymouth Sound. The fi rst pair of shoes we ever made it with was for HRH The Prince of Wales. He’s had them over 20 years and still wears them today.”

4Who is your competition today in the upscale men’s arena?“We feel we don’t have competitors. Most brands at our [level] are owned by big corporations. We’re 100 percent family-owned and -operated, which separates us from the rest. It’s important to be aware of the market but focus on our own service and products. I have so many styling ideas I want to work on and introduce that it takes all of my time.”

5How willing are younger shoppers to trade in their sneakers for a pair of your polished brogues? “We’ve found over the past fi ve years that the average age of our customer is getting younger. We think it’s mainly due to the fact that gentlemen are starting to understand what true luxury is and want-ing to invest in items that are not mass-produced. Owning a pair of handmade shoes, or something that’s made in very limited numbers in England, is luxury — not to mention time-less. With the rise of social media and access to [more] information, people are becoming more knowledge-able about [these] products.”

Ross & Snow is not your typical mountain gear.

The luxury shearling brand — founded last year by former Zappos execs Fred Mossler, Meghan Mossler and Steve Hill — has brought a fresh approach to winterwear, one that blends a fashion aesthetic with performance technology and fi ne craftsmanship.

“It sounds cliché, but we’re doing this because we’re shoe people and we wanted to make shoes the way we thought they should be made,” Fred Mossler told FN. “We think [the premium shearling] space in the market is a really big opportunity.”

Retailers seem to agree. In addition to selling on Zappos and Nordstrom.com, the brand this year secured spots in more than a dozen independent boutiques in mountain resort towns such as Vail and Aspen in Colorado and Park City, Utah. To generate consumer attention, it has been partnering with the stores on trunk show activations that it dubs “Bourbon & Boots.”

“With our product, it’s such a touch-and-feel experience, and trying to convey that online is a challenge,” said Mossler. “It’s really about getting this product in people’s hands.”

After initially crowdsourcing designs for their fi rst boot samples, Mossler and Hill have since handed over much of the

There’s a new gang taking over the mountains this winter with comfort and cool. By Jennie Bell

THE ROSS POSSE

03/One to Watch

line-building responsibilities to two Ugg veterans: creative director Leah Larson and Peter Young, who oversees men’s.

“We’re getting away from fast fashion and building product that is built to last,” said Larson. “The silhouettes are timeless but updated in these unique materials.”

Some of the most popular women’s styles in the collection include the Elena over-the-knee boot and the Stefana studded biker boot; while for men, the Stefano hiker has been a top seller. The collection is handmade in Italy, with leathers sourced from local tanneries, and retails for $195 to $595.

Larson noted that performance is an essential element for the brand. The fall ’18 boots are treated with SuPreen waterproofi ng technology, and the label is rolling out Vibram’s Artic Grip nonslip outsole to the line. “We’ve been working with Vibram to get their products into a fashion-type shoe to o� er women something that she can wear all day and all night,” she said. “So she can wear a heel but still have that stable footing.”

For holiday ’18, Ross & Snow also introduced luxe shearling slippers, and Larson said more new styles will be added for spring. But she emphasized that their focus will continue to be the winter après ski category. “Up to now, we’ve been doing the groundwork and building the basics, but now fall ’19 will be about elevating those basics even more,” she said.

An exclusive look for Nigold in Japan

The Renata women’s boot

a

Ross & Snow fall ’18boot styles

WARM FRONTBearpaw boots are even more winter-ready starting in fall ’19. The Citrus Heights, Calif.-based brand will introduce an insula-tion technology to its men’s, women’s and kids’ collections. HiberTech consists of 200 grams of foil-backed insulation built into the lining of the boots, and it is equipped to handle subzero temperatures. Bearpaw will o  er HiberTech in special versions of its most popular styles for $10 on top of the retail price.

ALL TIED UPWith slip-on sneakers and Velcro closures dominating the chil-dren’s scene, many youngsters are failing to learn an important skill: shoelace tying. Newcomer Shooji has created a fashionable way to help kids distinguish between the two sides of the laces, making learning how to tie them a breeze. The New York-based brand — founded by friends Silvia Galombik and Sarah Mills — o  ers Color Pops ($15), a set of six half-laces in three colors that can be snapped together in di  erent combinations; and Love.2.Lace ($12), two-tone sets adorned with decorative charms. Both products will be available online begin-ning in February and at selected wholesale accounts next spring.

SPANISH STEPSCamper is being given the royal treatment. The fashion-comfort brand, founded in 1975, has received Spain’s Honorary Award for a Large Fashion Company, an honor bestowed by the Ministry of Industry. The prize will be awarded by Queen Letizia in a ceremony in Madrid on Dec. 19. The company is being recognized for its con-tribution to the fashion industry both in and outside of Spain.

GOLDEN EGGTasmanian brand Blundstone is celebrating 50 years of its Original 500 Chelsea boots. The unisex style, originally worn by local farmers and builders, has become a staple among baby boomers and millennials for its

05/ Buzz

Shooji makes shoetying easy for kids

Bearpaw’s Harlowboot with HiberTech

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FORWARD. VERSATILE. LUXE.

2019

footwear

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM

For breaking news, the hottest shoe sightings and must-have trends

Join more than 95K followers @footwearnews

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long wear and comfort features includ-ing slip-resistant outsoles, removable cushioned footbeds and weatherproof leathers. Adult and youth sizes retail for $180 and are available in stores.

HIT THE LINKSCcilu has signed a long-term license deal with the PGA Tour for a branded lifestyle footwear collection. The label will create a range of styles for every-day wear, including sandals, fl ip-fl ops, sneakers, casual shoes and boots, some of which will debut the brand’s AirQlation technology. The collection will be distributed globally in o­ cial PGA stores and partner retailers start-ing in spring ’19. In addition, Ccilu’s sponsorship for the World of Dance has been renewed through 2019.

COMFORT ZONEWhen attorney Roxanne Skewes grew tired of wearing shoes that hurt, she headed to Europe to create Mila Mercier, high-end sandals featuring insoles made of memory foam and gel. “They’re feminine, sexy, sensual and, above all, comfortable,” said Skewes. The series of Italian-made wedge slides feature Swarovski crystals and retail

Blundstone’s Original500 Chelsea boot

Birkenstock’swool felt scu�

Mila Mercier’s Gingham slide

Dansko’s Palermo oxford

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for $385 to $450. Delivery is slated for April to boutiques and independent shoe stores.

AT EASEBirkenstock is all about cocooning for fall ’19 with the debut of its fi rst slipper. The brand outfi tted the clog with its signature cork footbed, lined with sheepskin for cozy support, while the bottom has been dipped in rubber for durability and traction. Available in a range of colors, the slipper retails for $90 for kids and $100 for adults and will deliver in October to Birkenstock’s current accounts.

WATER WORKSFor fall ’19, Dansko is battling the elements with waterproof ankle boots and an oxford from its Palermo and Bonn collections. For enhanced comfort and protection, the shoes have linings with Aegis Microbe Shield odor control and leather-covered, removable molded polyurethane footbeds with memory foam, while a rubber outsole provides traction. Retailing from $160 to $200, the styles will deliver in July to department stores, independents and e-tailers.

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FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

PickPick

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2018 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 74, NO. 38 December 17, 2018. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, February, March, May and July, second week in November and December, third week in April and June, fourth week in August, September and December, fifth week in May and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscrip-tion price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of print issues in a subscription term, including discontinuing our print format, make substitutions and/or modify the manner in which the subscription is distributed. You have the right to cancel at any time and receive a full refund of any unused portion of your current subscription term. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

30

PowerTulleJennifer Lopez was a beaming beauty arriving at the New York premiere of her new movie, “Second Act,” last week. The actress embodied a life-size Bar-bie in her voluminous pink Giambattista Valli gown and metallic Jimmy Choo Max platforms. Escorted by her beau, Alex Rodri-guez, J-Lo was all smiles as they entered the event hand in hand.

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