Ô diy! how to make your own - american airgunner

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Trip Line Detonator for Use With Big Blast Target InflatorÔ Big Blast Target Inflator Ô trademark is owned by Umarex USA Made specifically for use with Big Blast Target InflatorÔ How to Make Your Own DIY ! IMPORTANT – To ensure the templates print the correct size — make certain that ‘Scale’ or ‘Scaling’ in your PDF printing program is set to Off or None.

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Trip Line Detonator for Use With Big Blast Target InflatorÔ

Big Blast Target InflatorÔ trademark is owned by Umarex USA

Made specifically for use with Big Blast Target InflatorÔ

How to Make Your OwnDIY!

IMPORTANT – To ensure the templates print the correct size — make certain that ‘Scale’ or ‘Scaling’ in your PDF printing program is set to Off or None.

How to modify a Rat Trapfor use as a pressurized Cola bottle detonator

Page 2

Mounting Holes

(Template on Page 10)

Trip Line Detonator for Use With Big Blast Target InflatorÔ

Big Blast Target InflatorÔ trademark is owned by Umarex USA

Tie StrapHoles

(For Bottle Mounting)

SAFETY

There is no inherent danger in building this device just keep in mind that smart people get hurt when doing stupid things. Pay attention, work smart and be safe.

Use gloves, eye protection and hearing protection when handling pressurized bottles !! Cover the bottle with a heavy bath towel or rug while inflating. If any part of the bottle turns milky white or frosty looking while inflating — Discard that bottle, it’s defective!!

Be certain that the Big Blast bottle cap is tied to something to ensure that it isn’t driven by the blast into anything or anyone that can be damaged or injured.

KEEP CHILDREN AWAY!!

Page 3

The intended usage of this device is to snap a ‘firing pin’ into a high pressure bottle causing a deafening blast when the trip line is hit – Very useful for keeping deer... prowlers and zombies away.

WARNING: Do Not use indoors or in confined spaces as the extreme db noise level may cause hearing damage !!

Please understand that we are showing the way we built the device and you may see a better way of doing it. In addition to the simplicity of the design you’ll notice that absolute accuracy is not required. Getting close is good enough.

The secret to making it work is to defeat the sensitivity of the tripping mechanism. This is done by using a twine ‘leader’ a rubber band and a little slack in the twine as shown on page 7.

The drawings are actual size and can be cut out and used as templates. (Pages 11 & 12)

Why we’ve chosen to use the Victor® Metal Pedal Rat Trap Model #M201 (or Model M210) – It’s the only trap we’ve found with a easily removed ‘trigger’. Simple to take off and get out of the way while we’re drilling the holes and it reinstalls just as easy.

Tools: Forstner Bits make nice clean holes but hole saws and spade bits can also be used. Sizes required: 1/4”, 3/4”, 1-1/4” A #12 Firing Pin screw requires a 5/32” bit. No size is specified for the mounting holes (Page 10) – use what fits your screws.

The only other tools needed are a sharp chisel or knife to remove material around 2 holes,a pair of wire cutters for trimming the tie straps, a small screwdriver to remove the ‘trigger’, needle nose pliers to re-install the trigger, and a spring clamp. You’ll also need a saw to cut out the Firing Pin Adapter blanks.

Material required:

Plywood 3/16” (5mm) – 2-1/4 x 4 inches. We’re using 3/16 in. x 4 ft. x 4 ft. Multi-Purpose Project Panel Tri-PLY from Home Depot Model # 00228 It’s moisture resistant but must be dipped in a water proofer like Thompson's to protect it.Rubber band – 3-1/2"L x 1/4"W, #64 (same thing post office uses)Masons line or sturdy twine – 12-18” for the leader and another 6 feet to secure the Big Blast cap. ‘S’ hook A tiny Carabiner Hook makes attachment of the Trip Line to the trigger leader easy. Fishing line – 8 lb test for trip line. 8 lb line is plenty strong enough to operate the trap and will break before doing any serious damage to the trigger.Sheet Metal Screw for firing pin (Pan head #12 x 1-1/4”) The length is critical – longer or shorter will not work.Tie Straps– 11", 50 lbs, cheap at Harbor Freight

Designed for use with Big Blast Target InflatorÔ which is found in most sporting goods stores

Let’s Build one!

STEP 1Remove the Trigger so it doesn’t interfere with the hole drilling... Place screwdriver in ‘slot’ and twist to widen the slot. Lift trigger out.

STEP 2Print templates found on Page 11. Tape Template to Trap and mark hole locationswith Punch or Awl

Terms Used

Firing Pin Adapter(not shown)will be Tie Strappedto the Hammer

TRIGGER

Spring

BASE

Arm BarHammer

Page 4

There are 3 Secrets to making this thing work: A Rubber Band, Slack in the Trigger leader and a properly positioned Firing Pin.

And all 3 will be disclosed in the following pages !!

STEP 4Install Reinforcement to end of trap base.This step is optional but highly recommendedas we’ve found that some trap bases breakthe first time they’re used. Cut a strip of wood9/16" square by 3-1/4" long. Glue and screwas shown.

Page 5

STEP 5Slot the trigger back in and bend the tab back up so it stays put.

STEP 3Remove template and drill holes. Remember to drill the 3/4” hole before the 1-1/4” hole. Remove excess to dashed lines with chisel.

Page 6

TriggerLeader

Trip line(Normally 8lb fishing line -- masons twine shown in this example)

STEP 6Tape Template to the Firing Pin Adapter blank.Plywood 3/16” (5mm) – 2-1/4 x 4 inches.Find templates on Page 12. This part is the mosteasily damaged therefore making 2 or more piecesis recommended.

BIG SECRETreveled onnext page!!

STEP 8Cut about a foot of twine for the Trigger leader and tie one end to a S hook. The optional Carabiner istied to the Trip line and clipped to the S hook. The carabiner makes disconnecting the trip line easy.Second thoughts – forget the S hook and just tie a loop in the end of the Leader.

STEP 7Mark Hole Centers, Remove template and drill holes, Shape to lines with chisel. Mark this part with a X or the word UP to make certain it’s installed the right side up. When donedip the part in Thomson’s Water Seal orboiled linseed oil to waterproof.

Putting things together

Page 7

STEP 12Install the Firing Pin and then strap the Adapter onto the trap ‘Hammer’. Notice thatthe Firing Pin Adapter is installed under the Hammer and the tie strap clasps are at the top.If this Adapter is installed Wrong Side up thetrap will not set.

STEP 11Don’t tie a knot in the end of the twine because if the trip line is hit hard or fast the knot will prevent the line slipping out of the trigger causing damage to it. Melt the end of the twine to prevent unraveling.

This slack prevents premature operationof trigger and you will adjust it to optimum.

Firing PinHammer

Mark 2-1/2 inchesfrom knot on rubber band.

The SECRET to making this thing work starts here - It’s the rubber band and slack in the twine!Without this slack a bird landing on the trip line would set it off.

STEP 9Trigger Leader -One end has a S Hook or a loop tiedon it- Tie the other end of the to the rubber band as shown. Leave a good 4-6 inches of the twine free at the end. Measure 2-1/2 inches from the knot and mark the twine, insert this mark in the trigger crimp.

STEP 10The end of the Trigger Leader is crimped to the trigger with 2-1/2" slack in the line. The twine doesn’t have to be crimped tight, just enough drag to pull the trigger The Leader slack provides a buffer that allows movement of the trip line without setting off the trap.

STEP 14Mount on treeRequires a 2x4 bracket as shown to hold the bottle clear of the tree.

STEP 13Install bottle. The bottle can be installed on the work bench or after the detonator has been mounted to post or tree. Do Not use heavy duty tie straps, (less chance of breaking the trap) two 11 inch 50 pound straps on each side will do fine. When working at the workbench put around 50 psiof air in the bottle, and snug up the tie straps just enough to hold bottle in place, Not Tight because the bottle will swell when pumped up. After installing inflate to 100-120 psi. When working outside the bottle will probably have to be installed at full pressure.

Page 8

STEP 16Install the trip line and clamp the trap open while you double check slack in the Trigger leader. The trip line must be allowed movement without setting off the trap. If your trip line is long or tight you may need to use a 2nd rubber band .

TREE

Notice that the detonator and adapter have to be mounted on the ‘other’ side of the tree.

Trip Line

TREE

STEP 15Mount on postProtect the bottle from the firing pin with a piece of thin wood while you’re installing the mounting screws.

Page 9

STEP 17Pull gently on the Trip Line while observing the slackin the Trigger Leader. – Just enough slack to set offthe trap without undue force on the rubber bands. Adjust as necessary.

Firing Pin

Arm Bar

▲ THIS SIDE UP ▲

Traps are meant to sit on the floor and cannot be ‘set’when horizontal unless there is something to support the Arm Bar. This is done here by laying the Bar across the Firing Pin and it won’t work any other way.Make certain the trap is mounted the right side up!!

STEP 18Remove the spring clamp and set the trap as below:

—  IMPORTANT —     The bottle cap must be secured to

prevent its loss and to make certain that it isn’t driven by the blast into anything or anyone that can be

damaged or injured.

Tie it to something using at least 6 feet of Masons twine.

Page 10

Layout of mounting holes shown above

Cut this out and use to mark mounting hole locations

Firing Pin Hole

Firing Pin Adapter

These 3 holes areused for mounting...Your choice of size and location.V0

1/2

"

1 5

/8"

0 1

/2"

2"

What it looks like when assembledParts shown in installed position

®

VIC

TOR

RA

T TR

AP

Firing Pin Hole These 3 holes areused for mounting...Your choice of size and location.

VThis SIDE Mounts UP

2.75"

TRAP MULITPLE TEMPLATES

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

RAT TRAP

1/4” 1/4”

RAT TRAP

1-1/4”

Drill this Hole 1st

Drill 2nd

These areas to be removed with knife or chisel

3/4”

Page 11

FIRING PIN ADAPTER, MULTIPLE TEMPLATESPage 12

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

Remove this area withknife, or chisel

This hole for Firing Pin -5/32” for #12 screw All other holes are 1/4”

- for tie straps

3/4”

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"

4 x 2-1/4"