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    An American Jew in Palestine

    Steven Davidson/ The ChronicleSteven Davidson's summer taught him that peacetime and wartime in Palestine aren'ta whole lot different.BySteven Davidson| September 24, 2014HEBRON, PalestineI recall the sermons in my religious services growing up. During

    the High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, there were always calls forpeace and prayers for Israel. A country symbolizing the triumphant conclusion tocenturies of persecution, Israel was the home to my peoplethe Jews. And they hadwaited so long to return. It wasnt until this summer in which I had the honor of doingso. Although I began my trip under the normal auspices of going on Birthright, my triptook me far from the comforts of Israel, into a land where few Jews goPalestine.Preparing to leave from Tel Aviv, I was nervous for the two months ahead. I had justfinished participating in the Birthright program. After listening to the Israelinarrative of this land for two weeks, I was ready to see the other side that had been

    kept from me and other Jews for so long. Mentions of the West Bank were sparseduring Birthright, and when it was discussed, the narrative seemed incomplete. I hadloved my connection with the Land of Israelthe land of my origins. However, I wasdisturbed by the way people connected the Land of Israel with the State of Israelthe actions and policies of the current governmentwithout true inner contemplation.Political doctrine was presented as fact.Now I was going to the black part of the map.

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    Steven Davidson/ The ChronicleI craved to see Palestine with my own eyes, but knew so little about the land. BeforeI went to teach English to Palestinians and work for an Nongovernmental organizationin Hebron, I tried to research the Palestinian culture. But Google searches onlyyielded news clippings of terrorist attacks and violent clashes. All I had heard from

    Israelis about Palestinians was their supposed poor taste in clothing. As I crossed theGreen Line to enter the West Bank, life in Palestine was a complete and anxiousunknown.So how did a Jew from New York survive in a place in which the Anti-DefamationLeague found 93 percent of the population to be anti-Semitic? Aside from a group oftrusted people, everyone in the West Bank thought I was Christian.The situation I discovered while living in Hebron in the West Bank for more than twomonths was shocking. Living there during times of peace (relatively speaking), akidnapping and ensuing operation and ultimately war, I witnessed all the stages of the

    occupation. I witnessed inhumane horrors at the hands of what I had been told for solong was a benevolent government. They were horrors I had not anticipated to be soblatant in their nature and so extensive in their practice. Yet, the comforting light atthe end of my journey was to have the opportunity to meet the people there whoinspite of their traumatic livesonly showed me love and hospitality.There I was, on the other side of one of the biggest conflicts in world history, and allthese people showed me was kindness. There was the husband and wife who, afterfeeding me to no end (an all-too-common occurrence), sent me on my way with a bagof peaches. The father, peering around the room, handed me an energy drink,

    desperate to give me anything. In one afternoon alone, four separate people on thestreet invited me to dinner that night. There was the taxi driver who took it upon

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    himself to leave his shift to show me around the Old City and reveal all the secretshis town had to offer, and the restaurateur who took me in as I sought to break fastduring Ramadan. As I finished the three-course Iftar, I asked him how much it wouldcost. He looked at me and replied, No, Islam, as he pointed to the sky.These were people who often worked upward of 11 or 12 hours in a day to make not

    much money at all, and yet, here they were paying for my drinks, treating me todinner and doing everything they can to make me feel welcome.So how did a Jew from New York survive in a place in which the Anti-DefamationLeague found 93 percent of the population to be anti-Semitic? Aside from a group oftrusted people, everyone in the West Bank thought I was Christian. I was racked withguilt of lying to people who had been so kind to me, yet I knew that if the wrongperson had found out my background, there could be grave repercussions.Wars do not happen without a systematic dehumanization of your enemy. In Palestine,this dehumanization is the same in peacetime as it is in the throws of battle.

    Ultimately, my identity would not have made a difference with most people. Inconversations I had, people repeatedly stated to me that they were not anti-Semiticthey were only anti-Zionist. They emphasized all the two Abrahamicreligions shared, and they always mentioned the American Jews who voiced oppositionto Israeli occupation. The picture I was viewing was vastly different than the onethat had been painted for me when I was younger. I realized that statistics like theADLs was the result of equating anti-Zionism with anti-Semitism. Even when Iencountered anti-Semitism, which I will never condone, I knew it was the product ofexperiences that span far beyond my 21 years on this earth. Their fleeting

    interactions with Jews have often ended staring down the barrel of a gun.Wars do not happen without a systematic dehumanization of your enemy. In Palestine,this dehumanization is the same in peacetime as it is in the throws of battle. ThePalestinians live under military rule. Israel Defense Forces soldiers can effectively doas they please. Even places Palestinians are technically allowed to go would sometimesbe off-limits. I listened as my friend told me how his ability to go to the Dead Sea,inside the West Bank, was dictated by whether a soldier along the way decided toturn him back or not. And if my friend asserted his right to go? I might be shot.Whoever by name controlled areas of the West Bank, it was ultimately Israel thathad the overriding power. Checkpoints were everywheresoldiers were as common asolive trees. Before I arrived, there had been a video of an identified soldier shootingand killing an unarmed girl, yet nothing happened. There is virtually no internationalmedia found in the West Bank. Israel largely keeps the foreign press out anddemands self-censorship.Most international reports on the West Bank are in fact reported from Tel Aviv orJerusalem. To read the news unfolding in front of me distorted by the media at homeonly affirmed that I needed to share what I experienced. Censorship is one ofIsraels greatest weaponsthe reality does not match the story given to the public.

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    Steven Davidson/ The Chronicle

    A towering slab of concrete divides Israel and Palestine. The walls constructiondestroyed dozens of villages, has caused an endless economic depression andimprinted permanent psychological damage to the Palestinian people. Every time Imentioned going to Tel Aviv, guilt would seep through as people lamented their desireto just one day be able to see the ocean. It pained me as Id pass Jerusalem from theother side of the wall and those around me would look on at the Dome of the Rock inthe distance, wishing to one day pray there. It was always an awkward topic tomention my travels in Israel, having visited all these places as a foreigner. Theseplaces were a part of their childhood, yet now they could never experience what I did

    with such ease. The wall penetrated peoples minds and livelihood in so many ways,even in life-or-death situations. There was a boy who fell ill and needed immediatemedical attention. His family drove to the wall to go to the hospital in Jerusalem. Inspite of his critical condition, soldiers denied permission for him to go. He died at thewall. These stories are far from uncommon.Visiting the wall was intensely emotional. In Bethlehem, people write down theirexperiences and tape them to the wall. The stories stretch for miles. Street art onthe wall calls for freedom and justice, a world where they buildbridges, not walls.Tears flowed down my face in a gentle stream. I came upon an inscription: Judaism

    Zionism, as a Crescent Moon and Star of David were drawn side-by-side. I collapsedto my knees. The messages in front of me were cries of desperation, of humanity.And yet, only on this side of the wall could these cries be heard.I asked myself, Why? What is the reason? The answer always was: there was no

    reason.Even in the West Bank, Palestinians struggle to move around. Checkpoints arbitrarilyturn people back or detain them for hours on end, despite international law limitingdetention without reason to 20 minutes. People are beaten and humiliated at thesecheckpoints. These are not defensive measures. They occur unprovoked and upon

    innocent bystanders. With checkpoints and limited roads available to the Palestinians,a 60-mile trip from Hebron to Jenin can take six hours.

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    Foreign aid workers are hardly welcome in the West Bank. The friends I had wereforced to lie under the pretenses of their stays in Israel or face being turned away.Each time they leave, they fear they wont be allowed back in. Suspicion of going to

    the West Bank leads to detention in the airport or on the border for hours, with thevery possible result of being turned away. I knew an American lawyer who was

    stopped at Ben Gurion Airport. They demanded to look through her computer.Knowing her rights, she said no. They told her they would take her computer and sendit back to her. When it was sent back, there was a bullet hole through it.Members of Christian Peacemaker Teamsa human rights organization with fundingfrom the United Nationshave had their credentials turned down at the border.Even when they get into the West Bank, there are risks. They have been arrested bythe IDF for simply escorting Palestinian children to school to prevent violence fromsettlers and soldiers alike.I cannot count the amount of times I witnessed and learned things in which Id fall

    silent. I asked myself, Why? What is the reason? The answer always was: there wasno reason. Ive witnessed what the government and thus media declare to be security

    measures. Theyre not security measures. They're oppression.The prisoners Palestinians refer to as the kidnapped are those who are underIsraeli administrative detention. Administrative detention was a law carried over andexpanded from the times of the British Mandate. It allows Israel to throw anyone inprisonin use, Palestiniansfor up to six months without charges or due process.They simply renew the sentence every six months, making imprisonment indefinite.These cases are nonviolent in nature and are largely used as a measure to suppress

    political activism in the West Bank.The first night I was in Hebron, I met a man who was in administrative detention forfive years. He was silenced after being politically active on his college campus againstthe occupation. There were others I had met who had been imprisoned under similarterms. None of them committed any wrongful crimes.I had tea in the home of another man who had been imprisoned under administrativedetention for four years. Hamas had been helping to pay for his college tuition, so hewas thrown in jail. What people dont realize about support for Hamas in the West

    Bank is that it does not come out of a desire to kill all Jews. In times of relative calm,most support actually comes from Hamass social welfare programs, such as helpingkids pay for school, running soup kitchens and organizing community activities such assoccer leagues. This dynamic changed as the war in Gaza began.TIMELINE: Tensions boil over between Israel and PalestineWhen the kidnapping of the three Israeli boys occurred nearby in Hebron, no one wascelebrating. Everyones reaction to the news was that of fear. My American friendsbegan posting links originally from the IDF showing photos of Palestinians on socialmedia smiling as they held up three fingers to celebrate the kidnapping. However, thereality was that these photos had been taken a year before, when PalestinianMohammad Assaf, contestant number three, was vying for votes on Arab Idol. Whenthe boys were eventually found dead, the IDF resurfaced again with these false

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    claims, which many Westerners came to believe. I could not believe the violent andignorant cries against these people I had come to love.Throughout the next two weeks of Operation Brothers Keeper, I saw human rightsviolations I could not believe were happening right in front of my eyes. I willcorroborate what many reports say that Israel knew all along that the boys were

    dead. From the very first day of the operation, the field next to the hill I lived on inHalhul (just outside Hebron) had dozens of soldiers scouring the field. The fieldturned out to be where the bodies were later found. Israeli authorities haveacknowledged Hamas leadership had nothing to do with the kidnapping. It was clear

    to all in the West Bank that the operation was collective punishment and an excuse todisrupt the recent unity deal with Hamas and Fatah.

    Steven Davidson/ The ChronicleOver the course of those two weeks, almost everyone in Hebron I know had theirhouse raided. I dont understand how the final figure reported was just a couple

    thousand homes and businesses. There was no reason for choosing the houses theystormed. It was simply: youre Palestinian, so youre a suspect. These raids wereextreme, invasive and inhumane. My host family was a well-to-do familymy fatherwas a doctor, and my siblings were all educated professionals. Yet, when they stormedmy home, they broke my door and stole my moms jewelry. Property damage and theft

    was common during these raids. Id watch soldiers go neighborhood by neighborhood.My friend told me of an innocent family he knew that was detained in one room intheir house for 36 hours without food or water. One woman needed her medication,but was denied access by soldiers. She was hospitalized afterwards.

    Hebron was on lockdown. No one from Hebron was allowed to leave the city for anypurpose. Whether for business, flightsit didnt matter. Millions of Palestinian

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    dollars and experiences were lost. The area suffered tremendously. Soldiers wereeverywhere, roaming the streets and storming into local businesses and houses. Overthe course of the operation, Palestinians were killed, injured and arrested withoutcharges.The night the bodies were found, I was walking back from the city to my house. I

    wondered why so many soldiers were there. After all, they had already been therefor two weeks. Later that night, I needed to go back into the city to meet with afriend. I was warned not to go, as the soldiers were angry and had orders to shootpeople on sight. I ignored these warnings. As I approached the scene from 50 feetaway, all the soldiers began screaming and pointing their guns at me. I had four redlasers from their guns pointed at my head. I screamed I was American, and they toldme to go away.As I was walking home, I could hear gunshots and grenades. I wanted to see what washappening. I walked across my hill and went on the roof of an abandoned building that

    overlooked the scene on the street. Within a minute, a soldier saw me, turned, andpointed his gun, red laser at my head. I ducked down immediately and ran away. Had Inot run, I likely would have been shot. Israelis later told me that military protocol insuch situations call for multiple warning shots before shooting at a person. However,I had known Hebronites who had family members killed in the very same situationwithout warning. Protocol and actions seemed to differ.A couple of days later was July 4. As my mouth salivated at the thoughts of barbecueback home, I walked through the bombed and destroyed home of a family nearby. Itwas the family of one of the suspects in the kidnapping. The house was barely

    standing. Over the past two weeks, the IDF had come to their home to systematicallydestroy it. They destroyed all the appliances in the house. The walls were blackenedfrom the bombs that were detonated inside. The side of the house had been blownout and the walls looked as though they were moments away from collapsing.The familys son, the suspect, had run away from home a year before and had had nocontact with his family since. Yet the IDF decided nevertheless to come in to destroyeverything the family had built up for so long. To look into their eyes was to seeconfusion, despair and hopelessness. They were good people. It was a microcosm ofthe collective punishment the people I had lived with were going through. My stomachchurned as I left their place. My body felt faint looking into the frail fathers eyes.His innocent eyes burned my own with the backdrop of the destroyed house behindhim. I was able to hold off until I was home before crying.As Israeli journalist Gideon Levy once said, this is the only occupation in history inwhich the occupier thinks it is the victim.When the war in Gaza commenced, things changed once again. Living near acheckpoint, there were clashes outside my house nearly every night. It didnt take metoo long to learn not to go to the clashes. Early on, I went to the one outside myhouse. It began with boys burning tires on the street and chanting calls forMohammad Abu Khdeir, the Palestinian boy kidnapped, mutilated and killed inJerusalem. Tear gas was then launched in our direction. With every canister that

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    landed, people rushed to pick it up and throw it away before it did its damage. Inspite of the devastating effects of a weapon banned by the Geneva Conventions forwarfare, people would remain. After rocks were thrownfew, if any, would actuallyhit the soldiersthe soldiers began shooting. The one time I was stupid as to try totake a photo of the proceedings, a bullet whizzed right past me. There was no one

    else near me. They had seemingly targeted me for having a camera.I had the terrifying experience of having people running away by my side get shot.Some were rubber bullets, but they were for the most part live bullets, especiallywhere I was. I have witnessed soldiers aim at bystanders. As the clashes continuedthroughout the weeks, Hebron transformed into a battlefield. With black spotsdotting the street, Palestinians hid behind scraps of metal with shouts organizing theboys armed with small rocks as they dodged and ran from bullets. Over this time,many Palestinians were killed, and many more were injured.At one protest, a settler drove by and began shooting at the crowd. Settlers are

    Israeli citizens who live in areas throughout the West Bank that are subsidized bythe Israeli government. There are 600 settlers living in Hebron, but the Israelimilitary controls 20 percent of the city for them. The United Nations uphold thatsettlements violate the Fourth Geneva Convention. The settlers consume adisproportionate amount of the regions resources40 percent of the West Bank isdevoted to Israeli infrastructure. In the settlements, Id see grass for the firsttime in weeks, and lush gardens supported with sprinklers. It was a slap in the face tothe Palestinians who face constant water shortages, yet have their water tanks shotby IDF soldiers at night.

    Many of the problems arose after 1994, when a settler, Baruch Goldstein, openedfire on the crowd of Muslims praying at Ibrahimi Mosquewhere Abraham and hisdescendants were purportedly buriedkilling 30 Muslims and injuring 100 others. Asa result of this, Israel decided to impose further restrictions and prevent anyPalestinians from entering Al-Shuhada Street. Al-Shuhada Street was the centralhub for commercial activity in Hebron 20 years ago. Now, it is empty, as only settlersare allowed. As Palestinians cannot drive or even walk through parts of the old city, inorder to reach their homes, they often are forced to climb through windows and overrooftops.Walking for the first time through Al-Shuhada Street was the most chillingexperience of my life. As I reached the checkpoint and handed the soldier mypassport, I came upon a ghost town. In this huge area, the shops were welded shutand the street was completely empty. As someone from New York, seeing a once-commercial hub completely emptywith the shops and houses boarded up as youfaintly hear the echoes of the city nearbywas downright creepy, frightening even.Propaganda signs from settlers lined the walls slandering the Arabs and recallingthe liberation of Hebron in 1967. A sign proclaimed, There was never a Palestine

    and there will never be a Palestine! Along this large area, I saw one settler riding hisbike alone. As I walked around this giant expanse for the small amount of settlers,there was only one thought that reverberated in my mind: Lebensraum.

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    This was how it would have looked like if the Nazis had succeeded, I thought, if theyhad attained the living space they had wanted. As a Jew, I began to cry. The pain andsuffering that had endured so these settlers could take over Palestinian homes andland, it all hit me with such force. I was walking through an Israeli-mandated ghosttown. With soldiers patrolling the empty streets, it was insane to think this was once

    the commercial hub of the West Bank. The experience will haunt me forever.The settlers are ideological extremists whose desire to cleanse the old city ofPalestinians, supported by the soldiers, has no limits. There was one Palestinian manwho was offered money by settlers to leave his home, which he refused. Theyproceeded to assault him, vandalize his home, and put a poisonous snake in his house.They later threw acid at his childs face. I asked why the Palestinians didnt go to thesoldiers. The reply I got was a snorttheyd only laugh.I met a family who lived across from settlers in the old city of Hebron. They triedmaking fixes to their roof. For this act, the soldiers expelled them from their home.

    Any Palestinian home within 100 meters of a settlement is not allowed to make anyrepairs to their home of any kind. If they are found doing so, they are forced toleave. Thus, Palestinians are either faced with a slow, humiliating expulsion, or, a quickone. The homes are subsequently taken over by settlers. This is one of many tacticsto expand the settlements. Homes have also been taken over in order to serve asIsraeli military outposts, and unfounded claims have been made for homes to haveties to medieval or biblical Jewish figures, which is grounds for Palestinian expulsion.Every night, I would toss in bed, wondering when the world would wake up andrealizethis wasnt a political issue in the West Bank. It was a humanitarian crisis.

    The violence I witnessed during my time shocked me, yet what shocked me furtherwas how desensitized everyone around me was to it. The first time I witnessedviolence, I was with my host brother and his friends. An unarmed man had been shotthree times by a soldier nearby. We went to the scene as the ambulance took himaway. After two minutes, everything was back to normal for everyone else. A man hadbeen shot, and it was business as usual. As I remained solemn, those around me wentback to joking around, living their life. After a moment or two, it was so casual tothem. In general, the dark humor present throughout the conflict was a copingmechanism to help people live their lives. What was normal to them was unheard of tome. It was surreal how they were used to their friends being shot. And this is whatthey grow up in, I thought.To understand the psyche of Palestinians is to understand people who have beentreated inhumanely their entire lives. This was most important in experiencing thewar while in Hebron. While minimal beforehand, support for Hamas grewtremendously during the war. This was something that I had great difficultygrappling with. I was a pacifist living in a world where all sides were resorting toviolence. No actions were being taken that would lead to peace. Hamas propagandavideos aired on televisions via al-Aqsa station. In the nationalistic fervor on bothsides, there was no capacity for self-reflection and criticism.

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    I recall a conversation I had with my host brother about this. I confronted him on hissupport for Hamas during the war. I told him that even though Israel was killingscores of innocent people and what they were doing was horrible, two wrongs dont

    make a right. I insisted that Hamas, by sending rockets to Israel withoutdiscriminationno matter how unsuccessful they werewas committing acts of

    terrorism.He looked at me with his sad eyes, and replied, Steven, I have grown up in a world inwhich I can sleep through bombs in my neighborhood, gunshots in my backyard. In my30 years living, I have never been treated as a human being. Israel does not treat meas a human being. The international community does not treat me as a human being.No one has ever stood up for me. My dignity has been taken away, my humanity doesnot exist. This is the first time anyoneanyonehas ever stood up for me in any way.I just want to feel like a human in some way. I want peace, Steven. I dont wantanyone killed. But what is there for us to do? Every peace agreement we have, we only

    suffer more. We lose our land and our dignity. I just cant take being treated like ananimal anymore.He spoke with desperation in his voice. I knew that his conclusions were wrong andwould only hurt the Palestinian cause. The pacifist inside me screamed in pain. Yet,knowing what had driven this man to believe thisyears of suffering and inhumanitythat is what made me truly realize the utterly sick, perverse ways of the system. Itreminded me how Nelson Mandela, a symbol of liberation, carried out terrorist actswith the African National Congress in South Africa during apartheid, desperate foravenues to freedom. To see such wonderful people feeling obliged to support heinous

    acts was so sickening. Yet, I knew it was the inevitable result of brutal regime.History had predicted this.Before my visit, I was never an active voice in the issue. I felt the issue revolvedaround impassioned arguments and biased beliefs. After seeing what Ive seen andknowing the truth on the ground, I knew the conversation had to be shifted fromdebate to understanding the situation. People would argue with my experiences. Forpeople to deny the truth as mere political argument was demoralizing. I felt helpless.Every night, I would toss in bed, wondering when the world would wake up andrealizethis wasnt a political issue in the West Bank. It was a humanitarian crisis.Arguing with those who were ignorant of the truth yet so sure of what they believedwas maddening. When does the journey for truth begin and the quest for self-validation end? My faith in humanity was shaken, but I would not let it be destroyed.SLIDESHOW: Steven's photos from his summer in PalestineI understand the side of the Israelis. I had the experience beforehand of going onBirthright, and then periodically returning to Tel Aviv to stay with Israelis andformer soldiers. I spoke with soldiers who had been stationed in Hebron. Iunderstand being a 20-year old target in hostile territory with the fear of theunknown at every corner. I was with Israelis in Tel Aviv as sirens blared and rocketswere destroyed above our heads. I sympathize with them just as I sympathize withPalestinians. I do not call myself pro-Palestinian or pro-Israeli. I favor no people over

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    another. I am pro-justice and pro-peace. On both sides, paranoia and fear have drivenmany to have ugly views that does not bring people any closer. I have heard people saythat Ariel Sharon is not a human being, or watched videos of Netanyahu that wereclearly faked. I have listened to the Hamas propaganda music in the cars blaring.Yet, I also listened during Birthright as speakers made Arabs into the enemies who

    seek to kill every Jew in Israel. I have lived through all my life the storyline ofIsrael, backs to the wall, fighting for its survival in the face of nefarious neighbors.Being there first-hand, I now know the truth and deceptions of these assertions.Having lived through this all my life, I recognize the propaganda, lies and half-truthsthat blind so many good people from the truth.As Israeli journalist Gideon Levy once said, this is the only occupation in history inwhich the occupier thinks it is the victim.As a Jew, I am in no way going against my people. The Israeli government is not mypeople. It is a government that acts on its own and does good and bad things. For a

    government to claim any official religion does not shield it of critical thinking bythose of that religion. The fact that these horrible acts have been done in my namedistorts even further the truth of the matter. As a witness to the truth, what theIsraeli government has committed in the West Bank is not out of security, and notout of self-defense. It is done out of an attempt to ethnically cleanse the region. Itis done out of an attempt to pacify a people who have been denied their rights andland they have lived on for centuries. It is a system in which people are segregatedand given separate identification based on ethnic background, subjected to differinglaws, given unequal access to resources and infrastructure and have their rights

    taken away. I dont say this from what anyone told meI dont say this from whatmedia outlets reporting from Tel Aviv told me, or what my Birthright leader told me,or what everyone told me growing up. I say this with my own eyes as the source.This submission was one half of a two-part Towerview series dedicated to the

    Israeli-Palestinian conflict.Click hereto read Elissa Levine's account from her

    summer in Israel.Recommended

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