#1 Resource for Painting Contractors

32 May 2016 • APC

Frequently AskedDeck Maintenance Questions

PDCA’s Crafstmanship Operating Procedures area great starting point for learning how to properlyand safely clean, coat or stain decks. To address addi-tional concerns that arise during deck work, APCasked Dan Schaeffer, owner of Five Star Painting ofAustin, Texas, a variety of frequently asked questionsabout specific aspects of deck refurbishing.

Photo courtesy of Sherwin-Williams.

AMERICAN PAINTING CONTRACTOR • May 2016 33

QCan you give some specific examples of wood and tell us which types of stains work best?For example, what dense/hard woods should use an oil-based stain? Also, does old,

degraded wood require more coverage (it's more "thirsty"), or just use an oil-based stain?

ADifferent species of wood may require different prep or products. For example, moredense/hard woods may require an oil-based stain that will really soak into the wood as

opposed to a water-based stain. Generally speaking, you want to use an oil-based stain onwoods such as Ipe because it will penetrate better into the wood. Water-based stains won’tpenetrate as well into hardwoods and will sit on the surface and be prone to bubbling or otherproblems. Older wood will often require more stain, and you can use water-based stains justas well on older wood. It’s not necessarily something you need to stain with an oil-based stain.

QWhat about killing mold and mildew? If you put stain over wood that has somemold or mildew (but no discoloration), will the stain kill the fungus, or will it keep

growing and affect the wood?

AIf wood has mildew or mold or is prone to it, then it’s best to treat the wood beforestaining it again. Also, a water-based stain is better since oil-based stains are more

likely to allow the mold to grow. I recommend using products that remove mold ormildew prior to staining.

QI've heard that, like paint, solid stains can dry and crack.I've also heard that's not true.

AThe more pigment a stain has the more durable it will beagainst UV rays and other deterioration. A solid stain is a

great choice, especially on decks that get a lot of sun as wellas on wood siding.

QIsn't most of the process determined by the wood? For example, if you havea year-old deck, you might just wash it. If it's only a couple of years old, you

might just need to re-seal it with a translucent stain, correct?

AThere are a few factors that determine the process: the current condition ofthe wood, what is currently on the deck, and what the client wants the deck

to look like afterwards. If a deck has been routinely maintained and is in goodshape, then a power wash and stain application (of the same stain that is cur-rently on the deck) is usually sufficient. If the deck is not in good shape and/orclient wants to change colors, then you need to go through a more comprehen-sive cleaning and prep process to ensure a uniform finish.

QSome contractors use bleach as a cleaner before staining. Others use a cleanerspecifically made for decks and then use a brightener. Do you use a brighten-

er only when the wood is in good shape?

AWe typically do not use bleach because it can harm plants and other land-scaping in the area. We use a mild cleaner, such as Simple Green, for general

cleaning. We also use different products to remove mold or revive old wood.Sometimes we sand decks to remove an existing finish. It also depends on the sizeof the deck. Each deck is different so there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach.

34 May 2016 • APC

Polyurethane coatings shouldn’t be shaken

as that will introduce air, and since it’s

designed as a sealer coat and should be

smooth, you don’t want air bubbles.

QWhat are the common coatings for a deck?

AThere are a several types of stains differentiated by their pigments. Clear coats or sealers aresometimes clear but can also have an amber hue. Semi-transparent stains allow most of the

wood grain to show through and can vary on the amount of pigment. Solid stains will mask mostof the wood grain and have more pigment. The more pigment a stain has the more protection itwill offer against UV and other weather deterioration. There are paints designed for decks and forfoot traffic as well.

One of the differences between paints and stains is that paint typically comes in a variety ofsheens, whereas stain usually comes in one sheen that is close to a matte finish (not shiny). If a deckhas been previously painted or stained with a solid stain, it can’t be stained with a semi-transpar-ent stain unless you remove the existing finish.

QI’ve heard that some deck stains should be shaken, some stirred, depending onhow soon you’re going to use it.

AThis really pertains to clear sealers like polyurethane more than stain. You canshake stains, though some people prefer stirring to ensure all the pigment is

distributed evenly. It shouldn’t be an issue especially if you are brushing the stainbecause that will eliminate air bubbles. Polyurethanes, on the other hand, should-n’t be shaken as that will introduce air, and since it’s designed as a sealer coat andshould be smooth, you don’t want air bubbles.

QIs the old "See if a bead of water is suspended on the surface" test a rea-sonable method to determine if a deck is protected?

AYes, I often do this. It's a commonly used method and conversely can beused to see if a wood deck is ready to accept a new coating. APC

Dan Schaeffer is the franchise owner of Five Star Painting inAustin, Texas. Five Star Painting is a national brand with morethan 150 franchise territories across the United States and Cana-da. You can learn more at www.fivestarpainting.com.