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Selecting &

Planting Landscape Trees

Landscape Considerations

Plan First, Plant

Once

Know the Site

Know the Tree

Installation

Top-most Root

Planting Depth

Palms

Presented by: Sheila Dunning

Key to SuccessProper planning and plant selection:

Can avoid problems later

Can save energy, effort, water, money, etc.

Makes the landscape more enjoyable

Plan First, Plant Once This is a process, not a

one-time event! Have a plan! Know the plants and what

they require to thrive Utilize regional gardening

books and magazines Consult with your County

Extension Office Ask qualified nursery

professionals for advice

How Do You Currently Use Your Property?

Family Activities? Pets? Outdoor entertainment? Low-maintenance? Do you like wildlife? Is there a view you

want to hide or enhance?

What are the site

characteristics?Soil Sand, silt, clay, Organic materials pH

Light Sun or shade

Drainage Wet or dry Drainage patterns

Structures and obstructions Utility lines (overhead and underground) Sidewalks / driveways

Know Your Plants What is the mature size

of the plant? Does it grow well in sun

or shade? Does it tolerate flooded

conditions? Is it salt tolerant? Is it susceptible to

pests which may be difficult to control?

Helianthus debilis

Beach Daisy

Selecting Plants Be familiar with botanical

namesBinomial nomenclature- a species name has 2 parts:

Genus and specific epithet Buy healthy plants

Look for new growthRoots are white and fibrousAvoid pot bound plantsAvoid diseased or insect infested plants

Jerusalem ThornParkinsonia aculeata

Genus Specific epithet

Seasonal Growth

Different parts of the plant grow at different times of the year

Pattern varies by species and climate

Shallow is Better than Deep

Dig the planting hole as wide as possible The depth of the hole should be less than

the height of the root ball

Find the Top-most Root

The point where the top-most root meets the trunk of the tree should be no more than 2”deep in the root ball

Remove Excess Soil

If the top-most root is too deep, remove soil from the top of the root-ball so the top-most root is within the top 2” of soil

Three inches of soil and media were removed from the top of this ball

Top root at surface

Cutting Circling Roots

These roots were cut because they circled the outside edge of the root ball

New roots will grow quickly into backfill soil following cutting

Circling roots – cut them

Shave the Rootball

Measure from Top Root to Bottom of

Container

Set Plant in the Hole

Rootball should be slightly higherthan surrounding grade

Straighten the Tree

Before adding backfill, be sure to check that the tree is straight by looking at it from two perpendicular directions

Enlarge Hole By Loosening Soil

Good Fill

Bad Fill!!

Water the Backfill to Settle

Lifting tree into the planting

hole To avoid damage

when setting the tree in the hole, lift the tree with straps or rope around the root ball, not by the trunk

Wire Baskets

Baskets made from heavy gauge wire are often used to help keep a root ball intact during shipping and handling

Balled and burlapped trees

Under optimal conditions, burlap would be removed from the bottom of the trunk and the top of root ball

Remove All Synthetic Burlap

Synthetic burlap melts into a plastic goo while real burlap flames and turns to ash

If burlap is synthetic, be sure to remove all of it with a pruner, knife or other sharp blade

Natural Burlap Burlap removed from the bottom of the

trunk and the top of root ball only – remainder will decay

Girdled Roots

Each of these roots is very easy to break off at the burlap because there is very little wood that developed through the burlap

Rootball Set Correctly?

Planted Too Deeply B&B

Top of root ball

Top of root system

Finished Creating Loose Soil

Traditional Staking Methods

All these systems require removal within one year of planting

Figure 1 Figure 3Figure 2

Alternative Staking Methods

These inexpensive alternative staking systems do not need to be removed because they simply decay in a few years

Figure 4 Figure 5

Mulching

Apply a 3” thick layer of mulch to at least an eight-foot diameter circle

Apply a thinner layer of mulch over the root ball, but keep it at least 10” from the trunk

Improper Mulching Never pile mulch in a volcano-like manner

against the trunk. This cuts off oxygen to roots, can rot the trunk, can keep vital irrigation and rain water out and can keep roots too wet in poorly drained soils

Soil Berms

Berms made from soil allow water to soak into the root ball but, unless covered with mulch, rainfall will quickly wash soil from the berm onto the root ball

This could bury the roots too deep

Mulch Your Berm

Prevent soil from being washed over the root ball by constructing the berm entirely from mulch

Irrigation Management After

PlantingTree Size Irrigation

Schedule for Vigor

Irrigation Schedule for

Survival

< 2 inch caliper

Daily for 2 weeks; every other day for 2 months; weekly until established

Twice weekly for 2-3 months

2-4 inch caliper

Daily for 1 month; every other day for 3 months; weekly until established

Twice weekly for 3-4 months

> 4 inch caliper

Daily for 6 weeks; every other day for 5 months; weekly until established

Twice weekly for 4-5 months

Fertilizing New Trees

Avoid fertilizing a tree until it is established

Proper irrigation is important

Fertilize 4-6 weeks after planting

Liriodendron tulipifera

Tulip Poplar

Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees

•Adding slow release fertilizer of any type at planting has never been associated with improved or reduced survival.

• In most cases, it’s not necessary to fertilize after the tree has been in the ground several years.

Palms Are Different!

Palms have only ONE terminal growing point

Palms do not increase in diameter as they mature

Palm roots grow longer but do not increase in diameter

Many palms are harvested from the wild

Transplant palms in spring and summer

Sabal palmetto Cabbage Palm

Thanks for your attention!