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INSIDER

7 Going Barefoot How Galahad Clark is carving out a distinct shoe path.

9 FN Spy Two sisters test their luck in the game, and Nike goes big in New York’s Soho.

10 What’s Next Insiders on the issues that President-elect Trump should tackle.

11 Cornering Bodega The Boston retailer unveils fresh plans.

FEATURES

12 The Hot List FN highlights 15 names to know in the men’s shoe business.

19 Relax & Recline Brands introduce a more sophisticated way to lounge around.

THE LIST

27 Shoe of the Week Manolo Blahnik beckons with spring ’17 boudoir heels.

28 Changing the Conversation Dearfoams aims to freshen up its image.

29 Seattle’s Best How the Pacific Northwest dresses for rainy season.

30 Inspiration Point Joules takes cues from Britain’s native beauty.

31 Five Questions Yellow Box head Terry Chen on the sandal brand’s foray into boots.

32 Good Taste Talking flip-flops and surfing with Bethany Hamilton.

33 Burning Question How can core rainboot players compete against mainstream brands?

FN PICK

34 First Steps Donald and Melania Trump meet with President Barack Obama and more.

ON THE COVER

Photographed by MARK MANN

Derulo in LVL XIII sneakers, Burberry jacket, Kolor shirt, J Brand denim

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C O N T E N T S

“Men’s clothing is pretty basic, but shoes are the biggest accent. The shoe is an explanation of who we are. ” Jason Derulo in LVL XIII sneakers, Coach leather jacket, Kolor shirt and J Brand denim

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MELANIA TRUMP WEARSCHRISTIAN LOUBOUTINON THE CAMPAIGN TRAILChristian Louboutin is the shoe designer of choice

for the future fi rst lady of the United States. Leading up

to Election Day, she showed her support for husband

Donald in a pair of navy blue suede pumps.

SO MANY KICKS AT 2016SNEAKER CON IN NYCAt the two-day sneaker expo in New York, there was no

shortage of cool kicks to check out. Adidas and Jordan

Brand were the most popular — think Adidas Yeezys and

NMDs and Air Jordan 12s and 4s — but Asics

and Under Armour also had a presence

at the event.

KATE MIDDLETON FLAUNTS HER LEGS IN GIANVITO ROSSI PUMPS In a rare move, the Duchess of

Cambridge fl ashed a bit of leg in a

high-slit Self-Portrait gown and

Gianvito Rossi purple pumps — and

Footwearnews.com readers wanted

to get a look.

8 SHOES TO MAKE YOUR FEET LOOK PRETTIERShoes can highlight the good and

conceal the bad. We highlighted

fl attering styles by Christian

Louboutin, Azzedine Alaïa

and others.

PRINCE HARRY’S GIRLFRIEND ROCKS SARAH FLINT SHOESMeghan Markle, the girlfriend of Prince

Harry, has been thrust into the spotlight

recently — and luckily, she’s got great

style. The actress was spotted wearing a pair of lace-up

fl ats by Sarah Flint while out in Toronto.

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The most-read stories on Footwearnews.com last week.

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lawsuit alleging that it made false and unsubstantiated claims about the health benefits of the glove-like design for runners. ➵ “We’re putting our effort into building up the whole lifestyle. It’s irrelevant what you wear to the gym or for a run,” Clark said. ➵ Vivo — valued at around $20 million — has sold 1 million pairs of its styles, which cover a diverse range of categories. ➵ A recent crowdfunding initiative helped inject about $2 million into the business. The company, which now counts about 20 concept stores, is looking to open locations in key U.S. markets with franchise partners. It also wants to energize the fast-growing kids’ segment with the help of a larger footwear company. “We’re obviously a small business chipping away at this,” Clark said, “and we want to find a company that does kids with gusto so we can get the shoes on as many feet as possible.” ➵ While many traditional brick-and-mortar retailers have been reluctant to jump on the barefoot bandwagon, a number of storeowners believe Vivo has potential. ➵ “There is certainly a customer that loves the barefoot freedom,” said Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes. “We all love to walk around at home or on the beach without shoes. Vivobarefoot [helps replicate] that feeling.” ➵ Clark spoke to FN about the power of crowdsourcing and why he’s so passionate about throwing out old connotations about the footwear business.

It’s been four years since you launched the company. How is the business performing? It is increasing about 30 percent a year. We’re growing pretty fast, and the most encouraging news is that Amazon told me the minimalism and barefoot category as a whole is growing at 40 percent for them. People are describing it as the second barefoot revolution. Consumers are a bit older, wiser and smarter about it. It’s not just, “Nature will heal me, and I’ll put on these magic shoes and go and run a marathon, and I’ll run faster.”

The category took a big hit when the Vibram FiveFingers class-action lawsuit judgment was handed down. How has that impacted your brand’s trajectory? There was tremendous bad press around it [after

Vibram was implicated for making false claims about the health benefi ts of running in its shoes]. The barefoot thing collapsed in America because people associated it with running. We’re putting more e� ort into saying, “Don’t run in our shoes.” Most people do not have strong, healthy feet. If you’re used to running in other shoes and you suddenly go barefoot, you will hurt yourself. It’s like having your arm in the cast and then getting it o� and suddenly going to play tennis. If your feet are in foot co� ns, you can bet they’ll be out of shape, and muscles won’t be functioning properly. It’s stunning how few shoe people know about anatomy.

How successful was your crowdsourcing program that you started earlier this year to fuel investment? We raised over $2 million. We got 1,000new shareholders. We’re like a mini publiccompany, and what’s great is there is an armyof “Viva-istas.” A fair number of them have worked with us in some capacity. It feels like a very engaged and passionate community. Thebiggest investor was 150,000 pounds.

You’re focusing heavily on the kids’ segment of the business. Why do you think that’s grow-ing quicker than other parts of the company? The science for kids barefoot is going to come through much quicker. Fewer and fewer people can argue against that. The healthiest thing is for

a kid to let the foot grow naturally. Forcing them into non-padded shoes is a health scandal.

In which geographic markets are you having the most success? Overall, our biggest market is America. But Northern Europe is bigger than the U.S, and Germany is the biggest market in Europe. It’s basically where people eat organic food and live healthy.

Where do you see most potential growth in the retail market? Vivo is a tough bedfellow for the traditional shoe market, so it’s all about e-commerce and concept stores. We have 20 locations in Europe, and we’re just starting in Australia. The new store concept focuses on bringing nature inside. The fi rst store is opening in Prague next month, and then [we’re going to roll it out]. We’re going to move our Cov-ent Garden store to a better location in the area, and we’re seeking other spaces in London. We’re looking for franchise partners in America: New York, Chicago, L.A., San Francisco, Portland, Ore., and Seattle are defi nite points of focus for us.

You spend a lot of your time traveling and scouting out emerging sourcing destinations. What countries are you most interested in? We are starting to make more shoes in Portu-gal, and Ethiopia is an exciting place to make shoes. They have a pretty good government that’s encouraging a lot of investment. They have a lot of cows and people, and labor prices are a frac-tion of the expensive parts of China. We started making in Cambodia, too. China isn’t anything like it was: Even if they still have manufacturing in the southeast, the uppers get sent out to some backwater province.

How worried are you about the impactof Brexit? We sell to our distributors in dollars and buy in dollars. We hardly need to exchange currencies. Everything we sell in pounds, we pay in pounds. The only worry would be the British economy [declines] and if the dollar collapses [with Donald Trump getting into power].

How involved are you in the Clarks business today?I’m in the shareholder council, so I sit on a body that represents the owners. The board pres-ents the business to us six times a year, but the company is very much run by outside leadership. The Gary Champion appointment was huge in America: He’s steadied the ship, and I like him a lot. I’m very proud of Clarks and honored to be part of that whole thing.

“If you’re used to running in other shoes and you

suddenly go barefoot, you will hurt yourself.”

Vivobarefoot partnered with Ju/’hoansi community in Namibia to create handmade bushman sandals.INSIDER8

“You don’t need to ram barefoot marketing home,” said Galahad Clark, founder and managing director of Vivobarefoot.

After Vibram ran into trouble with its specific marketing claims, Vivobarefoot is

focusing on touting the lifestyle through athlete and event sponsorships.

The brand’s biggest category is off-road, and it sponsors the Ötillö Swimrun, which consists of a 75-kilometer race between 26 islands

(over land and sea).The event, which

consists of a series of international events, culminates with the world championship final in Sweden.

“It’s a beautiful way to move through nature,” Clark said.

Inside the new Vivobarefootstore concept

ALL IN THE MESSAGE

“The biggest unknown is what will happen with all of the trade things — that’s concerning. Where is America going to be a year from now or five years from now? Hopefully Trump will want to do the right thing. But he can’t do it by himself; he needs the right people involved. Just like Barack Obama couldn’t change everything, Trump is not going to be able to change [everything].”

John Varvatos, Designer

What’s Next?Industry power players talk top priorities and go-forward strategies under President-elect Donald Trump.By Sheena Butler-Young

Rick Muskat, EVP/Principal, Deer Stags Concepts Inc.

Matt Priest, President, Footwear Distributors & Retail-ers of America

“As an organization, we have been advocating for TPP. The outcome of the election raises a lot of ques-tions since President-elect Trump has been very vocal against TPP. But we will continue to help advo-cate for it and see if we can fi nd a way to help move this forward. From an economic standpoint, we’d love to see our government invest in our infrastructure. We have a crumbling infrastructure, and President-elect Trump spoke a lot about that during the campaign. We need to repair our roads and bridges, and we need to invest in fast rail. We need to upgrade our ports for import and export.”

“The top priority is moving trade and the Trans-Pacifi c Partner-ship. It’s half of a billion dollars in savings during year one and $6 billion over the fi rst decade. It’s a no-brainer. There are some also pro-business and pro-growth policies that this administra-tion can pursue, which will help do what Trump said [in his victory speech] about rebuilding schools, hospitals, roads and the like.”

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Kevin Plank, Chairman & CEO, Under Armour

“We have a lot of high duties and trade barriers in the U.S., and so we’re going to be looking for ways that we can tackle those duties and barri-ers. Brand protection [is also important] and making sure that the value that we attribute to innovation and to our brands and their intellectual property is protected in both the United States and around the world. I would hope that President-elect Trump — as someone who understands the power of a brand — would really see this as an area where he could spend some time.”

Greg Tunney, President & CEO,RG Barry Corp.

“It will be interesting to see what happens with the stock market. The stock market already made its corrections with the anticipa-tion that Hillary Clinton was going to win. It will be interesting to see what the market has to do in the next couple weeks to cor-rect whatever anticipation they did for Hillary and her policies. I’m also concerned that Trump was strongly against trade in his campaign. Our industry is heavily burdened with hidden taxes and tari� s. I have a great concern about [whether] Trump will now say, ‘I was a free trader anyway [and] all of my stu� was imported’, or if he is going to stay on that political stump.”

“One of the things that I’ve been vocal and hypercritical about is the lack of innovation in our industry. The fact that a shirt and a shoe are still made the exact same way that they were 100 years ago, I find embarrassing. I don’t think [we’ve] pressed hard enough to be innovative in the way that we make products and in the way that we have been chasing cheap labor. We have to become better. [Also], if you look at the issues that we have in America ... it’s one central issue: jobs. There is a role for the government to help us bring these jobs back home and help us take time out of the supply chain and our lead times.”

10 New Balance faced backlash on social media last week after its VP of public a� airs made comments some considered “pro-Trump.” INSIDER

Stephen Lamar,EVP, American Apparel & Footwear Association Bob Campbell,

Chairman & CEO, BBC International LLC

“Economics is No. 1 over trade. Fortunately, Trump has a very strong vice president who under-stands Congress and Washing-ton. He could leave a lot to Mike Pence. I believe that Trump will do what has to be done fi rst. I don’t think he’s going to think trade is No. 1 — the economy and jobs are No. 1., and we’re the type of industry that needs work. Unfortunately, we rely on China too much [for trade, but] we don’t have a lot of places to go [right now].”

ell-known boutique

retailer Bodega has

carved out a loyal

following in Boston

since it opened a decade ago —

and now it’s taking major steps to

expand its business. First up is a

new Beantown storefront at 184

Massachusetts Ave., around the

corner from its longtime home

at 6 Clearway St. This spot will

o�er footwear and apparel in the

fashion sportswear space, and will

also adopt a fresh name: Series.

“It gives us a little more

freedom to do [new things] there

that we wouldn’t necessarily do at

Bodega, and we want it to have its

own life,” Jay Gordon, co-owner

of Bodega, said of its new banner.

“Because of the sports angle, we

want it to have its own real iden-

tity and to have something that

may be scalable in other cities, we

can do specialty stores in other

cities under that name.”

Series will operate as a flex

space — what co-owner Oliver

Mak refers to as a “full fashion

editorial come to life” — opening

for special releases that fit in the

fashion section of sports. Nike,

Adidas and Vans have largely

driven Bodega’s footwear busi-

ness, but Gordon is mum on the

brands Series will o�er. The new

concept — which has been in

development since December —

will also help Bodega better serve

the quickly changing demands of

today’s consumer.

“I like the idea of giving us

a place to tell a more complete

story and have it constantly

changing. I think that’s more of

what the customer wants right

now,” Gordon said.

Bodega’s expansion is

possible because of its growth,

with an increase in sales both in

store and online. Gordon con-

W

The retailer believes now is the right time to target new areas.

By Peter Verry

Cornering Bodega

firmed the company’s sales are

expected to increase 20 percent

year-over-year.

And although Bodega’s leader-

ship trio — Gordon, Mak and Dan

Natola — has taken 10 years to ex-

pand, it’s a move brand partners

have encouraged for a long time.

“Their insight is to what the

consumer is looking for down the

road — not just what’s happening

today but what’s going to happen

two years from now, three years

from now,” said Randy Kinzly,

account executive with Nike.

“They’re always a forward-looking

company.”

Vendor partners aren’t the only

ones interested in Bodega’s expan-

sion plans. “They’ve established

themselves as one of the premier

sneaker retailers in the country,

and they have the respect of the

brands and consumer,” said Matt

Powell, global sports industry

analyst with The NPD Group.

“They’ve been very cautious and

spending the time building the

brand, making sure they’ve got

the concept right, and you’ve got

to capitalize on it when you can.”

Aside from Series, a new Bode-

ga location will open on the West

Coast in 2017. Gordon said the

upcoming downtown Los Angeles

space — dubbed LA Bodega, a nod

to both the city and its Hispanic

roots — should be open to the

public by fall ’17.

And the moves won’t stop

there. “I’ve got my eye on a couple

of cities, both domestic and

international,” Gordon said. “But

I’m not doing anything until we

get L.A. up and running. That’s a

huge investment, and we want to

make sure we do it right.” ❚

Bodega doesn’t plan to open additional locations in Boston.

“Bodega has established

themselves as one of the premier

sneaker retailers in the country.”

Matt Powell

These guys are on fire.

In men’s fashion, a renaissance

is underway, led by

passionate young designers,

executives and influencers

determined to shake

up the market with a fresh,

creative vision. FN highlights

15 names to know in the

men’s shoe business, including

one modern Renaissance

man: Jason Derulo.

The Hot

List

PORTRAITS BY MARK MANN

Jason Derulo in a Kolor shirt and Burberry jacket D

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Jason Derulo The Triple-Threat Collaborator

This music star knows a thing or two about sneakers. He sings in them, dances in them — and now he’s designing them, too. For spring ’17, the 27-year-old star will continue his part-nership with men’s footwear brand LVL XIII, for which he is a brand ambassa-dor and investor. The new collection of made-in-Italy shoes includes a major sneaker focus, including bold styles such as ponyhair, patent and metallic high-tops. During a recent photo shoot in New York, Derulo put his fashion side on full display and chatted with FN about his latest shoe project. — Christian Allaire

How did the partnership with LVL XIII begin?JD: The founder, Antonio Brown, sent me a pair of shoes through a stylist I was working with. He sent them to me for a performance on “Good Morning America.” I wore the shoes, and ap-parently destroyed them, but I started looking at the shoes and became ob-sessed with his work. So I invited him to my place in L.A., and we hit it o�.

How involved are you in the design process?JD: It went as deep as going to rooms around my house and checking out the décor, and figuring out things I’m drawn to. We looked at fabrics and colors, and brought that into the brand. I’m not the guy who will put my face on something I’m not fully invested in. If I’m not a fan of every single thing we’re putting out, it can’t be a representation of me. This brand is my baby. I’ve been there every step of the way.

Which styles are you most excited about from the line? JD: I’m excited about the gold sneaker. We got the concept from my shower — my shower is gold! The shoe is almost like jewelry for a special occasion. I’m also excited about the more simple styles. We have a mid-top that will probably be one of the best-sellers. It’s a little more everyday, and not so in-your-face.

What makes a good sneaker design?JD: To me, it’s something that comple-ments your personality; it finishes an outfit. Men’s clothing is pretty basic, but shoes are the biggest accent. The shoe is an explanation of who we are. Whether it’s going to a dinner date or a huge party, I feel like LVL XIII can dress up any outfit.

Will the collection incorporate or ignore trends? JD: It’s important to do both. You want to know what’s going on and what people are into. It’s a combination of pulling from a trend, and also pushing forward and doing something totally di�erent — just like with my music. When the song “Talk Dirty” came out, people were like, “What is this?” It’s important to always shock.

How did you develop your eye for fashion? JD: Part of being a musician is being a fashion icon. Finding the right stylist was very hard, and I went through so many people and personalities. It forced me to learn about fashion myself. I started checking out designs from America, Japan, Europe, im-mersing myself from the knowledge standpoint of fashion as opposed to just the surface.

Gypsy SportThe Envelope-Pusher

Gender-bending brand Gypsy Sport has come a long way since launching in 2012. Its founder and designer, Rio Uribe, 31, went from designing in a Garment District basement to winning the 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Now, his bold point of view and unlikely combinations are cementing him as a major brand to watch. Here, Uribe sounds o� on his work. — C.A.

What’s the story behind your spring ’17 collection? RU: I was inspired a lot by the World Cup and the Olympics. There was so much propaganda for sports every-where, so I couldn’t help but be in-spired. I was also looking at the 1920s and flappers and the rebellious nature of women at that time. So we mashed up flappers with the Olympics.

Where did your sportswear influ-ence come from?RU: I always wanted sportswear to be a part of the brand. I don’t go to a lot of red carpets or cocktail parties. Most of my life, I’m at the gym or hanging out with my friends. When we have runway shows, the sports stu� has to be mag-nified. I use literal bodies from football, soccer and baseball, and jazz them up with feathers, lace and chi�on.

Your runway models push the idea of diversity. Why is that important?RU: It comes down to being more inclu-sive. Winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund made me feel like I got my foot in the door of fashion, and I wanted to open that door for my friends and fam-ily. We’ve always been a homegrown brand. My first customers were my friends, so I wanted to make sure my models could be friends, too.

The Hot

List “Winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund made me feel like I got my foot in the door of fashion, and I wanted to open that door for my friends and family.”Rio Uribe, Gypsy Sport

Rio Uribe in a Gypsy Sport hoodie and Reebok InstaPump Fury sneakers

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What prompted the decision to make your line mostly genderless?RU: Initially, I was just creating cloth-ing and hoping a guy or girl would be interested in it. When we were doing T-shirts for Opening Ceremony one year, they were on the men’s fl oor, but only girls were buying them. So I stopped designing for genders. Also, I have so many friends who are transgender or non-binary, so they don’t like to be called a boy or girl. I respect it, and it inspires me to design for them.

Any hints about new shoe styles? RU: We have some slip-on slides that we make in Korea. I wear them all day. You can remove the tops and change the prints every season. But I’d like to get into more sports sneakers. I want to get Nike on board — something like collaborating on an Air Force 1. The dream would be an ongoing sneaker collab like Raf Simons and Adidas. Timberland would be good, too.

Stella McCartney Men’sHottest Launch

Stella McCartney is making her fi rst foray into the men’s scene with the launch of ready-to-wear and shoes in mid-December. “The starting point is the man that inspires the Stella wom-an. He has been standing alongside her all along, and now is the time he has his moment,” McCartney told Footwear News. The o� ering includes a strong line of sneakers, either color-blocked or fi nished with embroidered ribbon. The best part? They’re all made, or lined with, her signature eco alter nappa leathers. “I want him to feel as at home with Stella as our woman does,

with an e� ortless approach to fashion,” McCartney said. “To express himself as himself and not try to be anyone else.” The styles will be available on the brand’s e-commerce website. — C.A.

O� -WhiteMusic-World Favorite

To describe O� -White’s Virgil Abloh in one word would be “busy.” When he’s not designing his own men’s and wom-en’s ready-to-wear collections, he’s producing music, DJing around the world and acting as a creative right-hand man to Kanye West. It’s clear he’s the music scene’s hottest label right now, too, with celebrity fans such as Jay Z, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Rita Ora sporting his looks. Abloh previews his latest o� erings. — C.A.

Describe your spring ’17 men’s collection in one sentence. VA: I was inspired by the façade and what lies beneath things. You used Vans shoes in your most recent show. Have you always been into sneakers? VA: As a kid, I was always into sneakers and footwear. Jordans and skate shoes were always my go-to as a teenager. You also collaborated with Umbro on sneakers. Why?VA: I was inspired by a particular U.K. style of dress and was after the idea of designing something generic. Musicians love O� -White. How does music infl uence fashion? VA: To me, artists are pure beacons of lifestyle. My design sensibility is rooted

in lifestyle, so for me it is an honor that it resonates.

You also produce and DJ music, so what are your current obsessions? VA: I’m forever inspired by artists like James Blake, King Krule, Sampha. And I love the young artists like Lil Uzi, Famous Dex and Migos just the same.

Gosha RubchinskiyThe Redefi ner of Cool

Are Filas bound to be the next “it” shoe? They will be if Gosha Rubchin-skiy has his way. The 32-year-old Russian designer, who was born in Moscow, is gaining momentum in the sneaker scene with a number of buzzy collaborations with old-school brands. For spring ’17, the designer partnered with Superga on both low- and high-tops, as well as with Fila on runners. In the past, he has also collaborated with Reebok and Vans. And to further prove his skills, Rubchinskiy also launched an o� shoot collection this year called Paccbet, focused on skate wear. — C.A.

Jason RembertThe Star Stylist

Already a respected women’s stylist working with Solange Knowles, Iggy Azalea and Rita Ora, Jason Rembert pivoted last year when singer ZaynMalik, formerly of One Direction, hired him to cultivate a new independentimage. Along the way, he’s becomea key adviser to Malik, who not only dedicated a page to him in his recent book, but also worked with him on his spring ’17 capsule with Giuseppe

Raf Simons & Haider AckermannBuzziest Designer Debuts

Fall ’17 will be a season of changes. Raf Simons will present his fi rst men’s collection for Calvin Klein, following the departure of Italo Zucchelli earlier this year. With an ongo-ing Adidas collaboration in the works, you can bet Simons will ramp up Cal-vin Klein’s sneaker game, too. Meanwhile, Haider Ackermann will debut his fi rst collection for Ber-luti during Paris Fashion Week (succeeding Ales-sandro Sartori). Known for his exaggerated shapes and hyper-luxe materi-als, will Ackermann bring his knack for the unusual to Berluti’s conservative-learning aesthetic? Only time will tell. — C.A.

Luxury concept retailer Dover Street Market is changing the way consumers shop luxury. And as a bonus, it will end the year with a number of exciting projects sure to draw lines of sneakerheads. On Dec. 1, it will release an exclusive holiday style from Common

Projects. The baby-pink low-top Achilles style, with matching pink gum sole, will retail for $444. Later in the month, the re-tailer will also restock its hot-selling Dover Street Market x Vans collaboration collec-tion, which includes both a high- and low-top Sk8-Hi. — C.A.

Dover Street Market

O N - T H E - P U L S E R E T A I L E R

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Haider Ackermanspring ’17 show

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Zanotti and a forthcoming collabora-tion with Versus. — Mosha Lundström Halbert What does being a celebrity stylist entail? JR: You play so many di�erent roles in your client’s life. Sometimes you’re their friend, a manager, an assistant, a supporter — that’s often the most important thing. How did you transition from womenswear to menswear?JR: Zayn helped. To get a client like him is once in a lifetime. He has an understanding of his look. I’m just the vessel to help his ideas come to life. He surprises me sometimes, but I know his style very well.

How do you develop a bond with clients?JR: Communication is key. I speak to them on a human level, not like they’re this big mega-star. I’m going to do my job to the best of my ability, but to work with [a client] this closely, you have to like them. I’m at a point in my career where I don’t want to work with some-one just for a job. I want that person to one day become family. What’s been the breakout moment in your career?JR: Zayn at the Louis Vuitton show in 2015, [the singer’s first big appearance since leaving One Direction]. You had this kid who’s very young, and now you saw him as a man. His head was shaved, bleached blonde and he had a blue, loud Louis Vuitton suit with a printed shirt. It was something very masculine and di�erent than anything he had worn before. The reaction was huge. He owned that look, and it paid o�.

Which men’s brands are your regular go-tos? JR: For custom, hands down Versace. They make magic happen. They are like Santa’s little helpers. For shoes, I love Giuseppe, and I recently discovered this newer brand Guidi. They do rug-ged, edgy boots very well.

Koio CollectiveStartup Sensation

Picture it: Native Germans Chris Wichert and Johannes Quodt meet in the MBA program at Wharton and

“To work with [a client] this closely, you have to like them. I’m at a point in my career where I don’t want to work with someone just for a job. I want that person to one day become family.”Jason Rembert

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Jason Rembert in a look by Raf Simons

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From left: Chris Wichert and Johannes Quodt in Koio Collective sneakers

“We started out purely as online — and are still largely online — but we believe that the future of retail is experiential.”Chris Wichert, Koio Collective

discover a mutual love of kicks. And thus was born Koio Collective, a direct-to-consumer luxe sneaker label that began in early 2015 with a single high-top and has grown to roughly two dozen Italian-made styles. Here, the 30-year-olds download about their fi rst year and half in business. — Jennie Bell

What have been some of the big surprises so far?CW: What we saw working very well was pastel tones that we picked up on the Italian countryside when we were there visiting our manufacturer. One example is a pastel mint green that we released this fall against all odds — it’s a summer color, right? — but it’s been working well. Similarly, we have a very light pastel blush that has been popular for women.JQ: Being guys, we thought, “Naturally, we’re going to do a men’s brand.” But we see that our brand speaks to both men and women. We’re now 50-50.

You closed a $1.5 million fi nancing round in May. How have you put those funds to work?CW: That led us to build a bigger team — we now have six people in the o� ce and work with freelancers who are ex-perts in their fi elds. Some big projects we’ve been working on are tightening up our brand ID and building a new website, which will launch on Nov. 21, together with our new collection.JQ: In the beginning, we were very lean and did the best branding we could with our limited means, but we knew we had to focus on the prod-uct fi rst and get it 100 percent. Now is the time where all the ideas are becoming a reality.

What’s your approach to retailing?CW: We started out purely as online — and are still largely online — but we

believe that the future of retail is expe-riential, so we’ve been trying to create experiential moments at least once a month. In December, we’ve partnered with the Fancy app, where they’re inviting brands they like for a weeklong pop-up in Soho [in New York]. We’ve also partnered up with Away, the suitcase startup. They just opened three pop-up stores in New York, L.A. and London, and we are in all of their locations.

Are you interested in wholesaling?JQ: We are if we think there’s a strong brand fi t. We want to be in touch with those interesting places that see the high quality that is core to our brand, and that’s important to us personally.

Álvaro González & Nick VinsonMandal Masters

Since Álvaro González launched his eponymous brand in 2013 with his partner (in life and business) Nick Vinson, the dapper duo’s open-toe footwear has become a genderless staple for the chic set. “I design what we couldn’t fi nd for us in the market,” said González, a veteran designer formerly of Valextra and Jimmy Choo. “There is the guy who will only wear a fl ip-fl op with a beer-bottle opener, but he’s not our customer,” added Vinson, who oversees sales and marketing. Though men’s sandals can be a tricky category, Barneys, MatchesFashion and Mr. Porter all stock the Italian-made styles. It helps that today, male upkeep has become the norm. “Men are happy to show o¦ their legs they worked hard on, and shorter trousers are everywhere,” said González. Next, they will open their fi rst store in Febru-

ary, in London, and debut boots at the Pitti Uomo show. — M.L.H.

Michael LockleyModel of the Moment

Where isn’t Michael Lockley? With a halo of blond curls, a chiseled face and towering height — measuring 6-foot-3-inches — the Brooklyn, N.Y., teen has become the, er, beau of the men’s fashion season. After walking his fi rst runway for Louis Vuitton’s fall ’15 show, Lockley has since strutted for names such as Kanye West, Ovadia & Sons, Hart Sha¦ ner Max and John Varvatos. And o¦ -duty, he continues to turn heads with a style aesthetic that e¦ ort-lessly blends street with chic. — J.B.

Common ProjectsThe Sneaker Expert

Call them the kings of minimalism. Since debuting their no-fuss sneaker brand Common Projects in 2004, Peter Poopat and Flavio Girolami have grown their signature Achilles low-top style into a must-have staple in the men’s market (pictured above: their exclusive holiday look for Dover Street). And the momentum isn’t slowing anytime soon. For spring ’17, the brand will debut the new Achilles Summer Edition, a perfo-rated nubuck style lined with canvas, as well as a suede Cadet Derby. The brand also recently launched a capsule collection with Mr. Porter. — C.A.

Archie Hewlett Up-and-Coming Executive

At 22, Archie Hewlett has already proven his business prowess. To escape a dreary real estate job, the Brit tapped the skills of a She� eld, England, shoe factory and in 2014 founded the Duke & Dexter loafer brand, armed with just 6,000 pounds in his bank account and a relentless drive. “In the beginning, I would start my day at 8 a.m. and work until about 11 p.m.,” Hewlett told FN. “Then I would stop for dinner and then be back until about 3 a.m.” That work ethic has quickly yielded results. The luxe men’s label now ships to more than 120 countries, is a favorite of celebs includ-ing Ryan Reynolds and Eddie Redmayne, and earlier this month opened its fi rst retail location, in London. — J.B.

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Relax &

GLITTERY NIGHTS Daniel Green glittered mule. Belstaff pj top and pants, LGR glasses

19

Photographed by George ChinseeFashion Director: Mosha Lundström HalbertAssociate Editor: Christian AllaireMarket Editor: Barbara Schneider-Levy

This season, slippers and their fashion offspring are elevating at-home dressing with elegant takes on classic mule, smok-ing and babouche styles. Detailed in luxe tapestries and brocades, they’re a sophisticated way to lounge around.

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TEXTILE MARKETNewbark tapestry mule

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FANCY FEATHERSLena Erziak feathered mules. Agent Provocateur jumpsuit, Cutler and Gross eyeglasses

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LOAFING AROUNDBirdies tassel suede loafers

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GOING GRAY Clockwise from top: S.G. Companies feathered slide, Margaux wool ballet flat, Bearpaw pompom slipper, S.G. Companies feathered flat, Jenni Kayne fur vamp style

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MULE DRIVERS From top: Tibi embellished mules, Brother Vellies suede babouches, Patricia Green embroidered bee slippers, Malone Souliers pointy mules, Kevyn Wynn brocade slippers

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HIGH SHINE Chatelles metallic mules

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Call it 50 shades of pink. For an evening that invites the unexpected, Manolo

Blahnik o�ers up this sultry boudoir look for spring ’17. Arrayed in smooth satin with a luxurious feather embellishment, these heels harken back to the days of 1940s glamour and practically beckon for a silk peignoir set.

OBJECT OF DESIRE

01/Shoeof the Week

higher-end Dearfoams line, retailing from $26-$48,

is available at department stores and footwear chains

such as Von Maur, Belk and Sears, while the entry-level

DF by Dearfoams, priced at $12-$14, is sold through

mass merchants including Walmart.

“All share the same branding and DNA and are

closely aligned,” said Smith. “That was one of the goals

of the rebranding.”

For Detroit-based chain Boscov’s, ladies accessories

buyer Kimberly Varga said the new packaging has put

a fresh spin on the brand: “[At times] it’s been hard

for Dearfoams to capture the feminine aspect of a

slipper since the packaging is more masculine.” The

new, updated branding, she added, gives it a more

homey feeling.

While Dearfoams has been working to create a new

image, it continues to create trend-right looks that will

appeal to its core consumer base (women 40 and old-

er), as well as younger consumers. “Whatever product

you put out has to be compelling, fashion-forward and

relevant [to attract millennials],” said Smith. “If your

product is not relevant, you’re not on their radar.”

For spring ’17, Dearfoams is focusing on looks

with an active slant. “We’re doing sleeker styles with

heathered uppers,” said Smith. “If consumers are wear-

ing Lululemon, they don’t want a big fl u� y clog on.”

The president added that the slipper category con-

tinues to evolve from the traditional at-home slip-on

to styles that can easily transition outdoors. “Ten years

ago, consumers would not have dreamed of wearing

slippers outside the house,” said Smith. “Now, people

are very comfortable with it. They’re looking for more

utilitarian fashion and want product with a wider

range of [wearing] occasions. Seeing people wandering

about the airport in slippers is not unusual today.”

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As Dearfoams marks a milestone, the brand is revitalizing with new consumer-facing messaging. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

CHANGING THE CONVERSATION

02/CaseStudy

Iconic slipper label Dearfoams is getting a makeover. Lead-

ing up to its 70th anniversary in 2017, this fall the company

began updating its packaging and presentation to more

e� ectively convey its modern message.

“Our in-store branding had become di� used,” said presi-

dent Lee Smith, noting the label was no longer presenting

a unifi ed theme through its creative. “Coupled with this, we

wanted to make sure we were speaking to our older, core

female customers, as well as men and millennials.”

Dearfoams worked with Webb deVlam, a Chicago-based

branding agency, on the new look, which is designed to

evoke a cozy, at-home theme through graphics that depict

friends and families enjoying time together. The creative

will be utilized across all categories, regardless of gender,

price point or distribution channel.

The inspiration for the new brand identity came directly

from consumer focus groups, said Sue Hebberts, VP creative

and marketing. “What really means something to [consum-

ers] is the moment they get home and can shake o� the

stress of the day,” explained Hebberts, pointing to a new tag

line: “Feels Like Home.”

Another motive was to unify its portfolio.

Dearfoams caters to a large consumer base through three

companion labels sold at various price points. The signature

Knit Dearfoamsscu� for spring ’17

Caption

Girls’ microsuede moccasin

Plush pile girls’ bootie

Plaid moccasin for boys

Boys’ plaid fl eece bootie

FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

KID FRIENDLY Dearfoams may be turning 70, but the brand is thinking young. For fall ’16, the company soft launched a companion children’s collection.

“Working with some of our accounts, [we found] there was a gap in bigger children’s slip-per sizes,” said president Lee Smith. And, he added, since the kids’ licensed character business can be unpredictable, Dearfoams’ classic looks o� er stores a consistent opportu-nity in the category. The col-lection includes boys’ and girls’ styles in toddler to youth sizes. Retail prices range from $10 to $22, with distribution targeted at department stores, mass merchants and online. Below, a few kids’ styles available now.

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November is the rainiest month in Seattle, so locals are no strangers

to sudden showers. On a cloudy day there last week, trendy young women came equipped to stay dry in an array of seasonally appropriate footwear, including brightly colored rainboots from Hunter and Tretorn, and shearling-lined Sorel duck boots. Whether paired with jeans, leggings or skirts, these reliable boots are a smart — and cute — wardrobe addition.

SEATTLE’S BEST

03/They Are Wearing

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Bethany Hamilton approached the design process for her spring ’17 Cobian Footwear line with simplicity. “I’m always wanting comfy, easy and simple designs. I love talking with the designer and giving her a little bit of my taste and what I like,” Hamilton said, adding that she usually writes something on the sole of the fl ip-fl ops so they leave an imprint on the sand. The pro surfer has been working with Cobian for the past three years and launched sandals in 2014. And for her, the company is about so much more than selling shoes. “They encourage people in their journey and are super-supportive. I’m just thankful to be a part of their team,” Hamilton said. When it comes to surfi ng, the new mom recently achieved her best competition results when she fi nished third at the 2016 WSL Fiji Pro and beat the No. 1 female surfer in the world. “It felt like a huge accomplishment, especially after having a baby and all the time I’ve put into training to get back into shape for my sport,” she said. Next up, Hamilton is fi nishing a documentary about her life, “Surfs Like a Girl,” set to be released in summer 2017.

Go-to beach essentials:“My surfboard, a Rip Curl bikini, Cobian sandals and sunscreen. I pretty much live in a hat.”

Greatest part of being a mom:“That beautiful relationship and seeing them grow and learn.”

Heels or fl ats:“On occasion, it’s fun to wear fancy high heels, but for the most part, I don’t envy the people who have to wear heels every day.”

Best time of day:“Now that I’m a mom, probably sunset. I’m slower in the morning nowadays.”

Favorite sport outside of surfi ng:“Tennis.”

Best beach in Hawaii: “Hanalei in Kauai.”

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BETHANY HAMILTON

The professional athlete and brand ambassador talks designing for

Cobian Footwear and staying competitive in the surf world.

By Nikara Johns

Malvados

A REAL PLAYAVancouver, British Columbia-based brand Malvados will debut its fi rst collection, for spring ’17. The sandal label, founded by Jennifer Rainnie and Baseer Khudayar, will o� er 38 styles in three categories: Lux, with an EVA top sole and thin metallic straps; Icon, con-sisting of T-strap styles with braiding and hardware; and Playa, made up of one-piece EVA thongs. The collection has been picked up by retailers including Flip Flop Shops and the Ritz Carlton. Styles will launch Dec. 1, priced from $21 to $31.

PREMIERE MOMENTHavaianas, which is the of-fi cial fl ip-fl op brand of Walt Disney World and Disneyland Resort, is helping to celebrate the launch of Disney’s new fi lm “Moana.” In addition to creating a series of fl ip-fl ops featuring characters from the animated movie, Havaianas is a sponsor of the world pre-miere in Hollywood on Nov. 14, where it will have a presence on the red carpet and at a special premiere party.

DRY IDEASSamuel Hubbard, based in Mill Valley, Calif., is launch-ing the GPS Rugged Outdoor collection of men’s waterproof styles featuring Gore-Tex. In-cluded in the four-piece series: the Winter’s Day, a shearling-lined hiker; and the Rainy Day Founder, a dress-casual oxford. The shoes feature Vibram hik-ing soles or a Davos Ice Sole with Super Grip technology, and come with removable tri-ple-density Poron insoles. The line, set to deliver in December, retails from $275 to $375.

07/ Buzz

Samuel

Hubbard

06/GoodTaste

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Samuel BistrainFounder, Roma Boots

“We create styles that look more like [fashion] boots or shoes than like rainboots. We started with the classic Welly and are now bringing in products with laces, turning [rain looks] into everyday or hiking styles. It’s also important to educate people that a quality rainboot is more durable than a [waterproof] leather shoe. We include a postcard [explaining] how our boots are made and that they’re eco-friendly.”

As traditional shoe brands add more waterproofi ng features, rainboot brands share their competitive tactics. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

HOW CAN CORE RAINBOOT PLAYERS FEND OFF MAINSTREAM COMPETITION?

Alasdhair WillisCreative director, Hunter Boot

“When I joined Hunter, I introduced a brand-segmentation strategy launching two new categories — Original and Field — as well as expanding the product o� ering. New [products] include rubberized leather backpacks and vinyl raincoats. Also, referencing the success of our new and existing icons, a seasonless collection called Core Concept was introduced in October to complement our seasonal o� erings.”

Dave SengstakenPresident, Däv

“We’re always looking at innovative ways to construct a weatherproof boot. We’ve had opportunities to expand into non-waterproof footwear but haven’t done it. If you’re stepping in a puddle, you want a rainboot made by a brand that guarantees waterproof. [Waterproofi ng features like Gore-Tex] work like a plastic bag inside a shoe to protect the foot, but what about the water that soaks the outer layers of a leather shoe?”

Stephanie MicheleDirector of marketing & product development, Sloggers

“When [competitors] come into your market, you have to concentrate on cleaning up your space. Look at your data and make adjustments to your products and marketing message. We’ve polled our consumers and [retailers] and learned they buy our boots for their comfort and fun prints. We also focus on customer retention, so our footwear is a� ordable. And, we use social media to incorporate [customer suggestions] in our product development.”

08/ Burning Question

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Steve Sedlbauer President, Cougar Shoes

“When someone buys a rainboot, they have a more functional use in mind thanfor a waterproof shoe madeto protect them in wet orslushy situations. There’s a phenomenon going on in the market: It’s [no longer] about these looks being simply a functional item. We’re now doing short boots on fashion laststhat emulate what’s happening in fashion footwear, [so the boots] can be worn for more than rainy days.”

FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M The List 33

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President-elect Donald Trump and wife Melania Trump walked through the halls of Congress last Thursday. The former model wore her go-to Christian Louboutin heels for the occasion. Earlier in the day, Trump met with President Barack Obama in the Oval O�ce, while Melania met with first lady Michelle Obama — marking the beginning of Trump’s transition to the White House.

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO.37. NOVEMBER 14, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfill-ment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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