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LESSON 15: SPECIALIZED CUTTING EQUIPMENTS & TRANSFERRING

MARKS

Objectives:

Cutting machines and their operations

Recent development in equipments and techniques

Many types of specialized cutting machines are designed for specific operations and

specific products. An example is a strip cutter, which may cut or cut and roll strips or

bindings from knit tubular yardage, cut bias strips from wovens, or cut strips from vinyls or

other fabrics. There are also strip cutters that measure and cut lengths of materials such as

ribbons, tape, elastic, and strapping. The cutting device on a strip cutter may be as simple

as a rotating blade that cuts as the product is forced against it.

TRANSFERRING MARKS

Marks and notches are transferred from markers to the perimeter or internal surfaces

of garment parts to facilitate the sewing operation. Operators depend on marks for

alignment, placement of parts, special treatment during the assembly process. When usingoperator-controlled cutting equipment, it is the cutter's responsibility to transfer the marks

accurately to the cut garment parts. Computer-controlled cutters mark garment parts during

the cutting process.

Marks should not damage or discolor the visible parts of a garment. This is especially

true with internal marks, but edge marks if incorrectly done can also cause seam damage.

Marks must be accurately placed and readily visible for sewing operators until the specific

sewing operation requiring the mark is completed.

(i) Edge marks are made in a variety of ways, but a vertical straight knife or a hot notcher

is commonly used. A small lateral cut into the lay with a straight knife is best suited to firm,

smooth materials that do not ravel easily. This method of marking requires a perfectly

vertical lay with no sloping, otherwise some pieces will be marked too deep, while others

will not be marked at all.

(ii) A hot notcher is a hand-held device with a vertical electrical element that scorches

fabric at the point of contact. Temperature and notch depth are adjustable for the fabric. A

hot notcher is a good choice for edge marks on natural fiber and knit fabrics as it makes

clearly visible marks that do not disappear. When used properly, it does not cut, pucker, or

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