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CONFIDENTIAL BEAUTY Comment Building alliances Inside 2 Retail insights Travel retail 3 Tech bytes Netwatch 5 Trending Companies to watch 6 Data Around the world 7 Interview Amorepacific head of Amorepacific and primera division (svp) Kimberly Kim 8 Zoom in on L’Oréal 10 Seen in show PCD Paris 12 In case you missed it INSIGHT L ast week it emerged that furniture company Ikea was considering teaming up with rival brands to create an online selling platform. Back in the early days of e-commerce—in 2001—an initiative along the same lines hit the market when Chanel, Estée Lauder and Clarins came together to launch a beauty e-commerce site called gloss.com. The site closed shortly after. It may have been too early for such a project, or the sensitivities of competitors running a business together may have been too much. However, the idea may be worth re-visiting. For many industry players, retailers still hold too much power. And as the amount of consumer data has increased, so has the retailer’s power over it. This has seen more brands look to take a direct-to-consumer approach to the market through their own e-commerce sites and physical boutiques. But perhaps a multi-brand online boutique run by brands would create more of a connection with the consumer and deliver more of a beauty community feel. And no doubt this type of a platform without a retailer in the middle would appeal to many manufacturers. Ikea says that such types of platforms offer something in between a brand’s own website and the generalist online giants, such as Amazon. If brands can get over the obvious competitive issues and sort out who owns the data, such formats could become an interesting new direct-to-consumer route to market. #184 www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 1 The leading publication on the international beauty industry Oonagh Phillips Editor in Chief ophillips@bwconfidential.com Subscribe Follow us on: New format Comment Retail insights & Travel retail Tech bytes & Netwatch Trending & Companies to watch Data & Around the world Interview Zoom in on In case you missed it Seen in show

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Page 1: #184 BEAUTY Subscribe INSIGHT - BW Confidential · Millennials love parties and experiences, particularly ones they can share. So think how to bring a brand to life in airport retail

CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL

BEAUTY

Comment Building alliances Inside 2 Retail insights Travel retail

3 Tech bytes Netwatch 5 Trending Companies to watch

6 Data Around the world

7 Interview Amorepacific head of Amorepacific and primera division (svp) Kimberly Kim

8 Zoom in on L’Oréal

10 Seen in show PCD Paris

12 In case you missed it

INSIGHT

Last week it emerged that furniture company Ikea was considering teaming up with rival brands to create an online selling platform. Back in the early days of

e-commerce—in 2001—an initiative along the same lines hit the market when Chanel, Estée Lauder and Clarins came together to launch a beauty e-commerce site called gloss.com. The site closed shortly after. It may have been too early for such a project, or the sensitivities of competitors running a business together may have been too much. However, the idea may be worth re-visiting.For many industry players, retailers still hold too much power. And as the

amount of consumer data has increased, so has the retailer’s power over it. This has seen more brands look to take a direct-to-consumer approach to the market through their own e-commerce sites and physical boutiques. But perhaps a multi-brand online boutique run by brands would create more of a connection with the consumer and deliver more of a beauty community feel. And no doubt this type of a platform without a retailer in the middle would appeal to many manufacturers. Ikea says that such types of platforms offer something in between a brand’s

own website and the generalist online giants, such as Amazon. If brands can get over the obvious competitive issues and sort out who owns the data, such formats could become an interesting new direct-to-consumer route to market.

#184

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 1

The leading publication on the international beauty industry

Oonagh PhillipsEditor in [email protected]

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INSIGHTINSIGHT

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Retail insights• Merchandising cannabis products. Retailers are responding to the cannabis and CBD (cannabidiol) trend with dedicated shop-in-shop concepts. US department stores Neiman Marcus’ Trending Beauty assortment in five stores and online now offers CBD beauty products, while Barneys New York Beverly Hills will launch a cannabis shop-in-shop called The High End in March.

• Paid memberships and subscriptions are being adopted by retailers to fight low footfall in stores, in a more committed evolution of the loyalty card. Schemes like Sephora’s Flash subscription promise free, high-speed shipping for an annual or monthly fee and is reportedly seeing better results in terms of spend increase and customer retention than free programs. Subscriptions to retailers could develop to include many more services.

• Stores as digital-brand showcases. Stores have emerged that aim to give digital-native brands a physical presence. In the US, Showfields, Re:store and The Gathering Shops mix online brands with community events and workspaces. The concept gives new brands exposure, while the unique assortment differentiates the retailer from other stores.

• The product-less store. LEGO has opened a clothing pop-up store with social-media platform Snapchat that doesn’t carry any clothes. The shop has experiential retail features such as a DJ booth and arcade machine, and clothes are available for purchase through a ‘Snapcode’, Snapchat’s proprietary QR code, using augmented reality.

Travel retail

Blackjack Promotions head of experiential & international operations Fiona Rayner on improving the shopping experience in travel retail

Millennials make up 1.8 billion of the population and account for 50% of the travel-retail market globally, according to 2017 Nielsen figures. Here are three ways beauty brands can grab millennial customers at the airport: 1. Create a more tangible link between social media and real life Millennials’ obsession with social media is key to how to talk to them—social media isn’t just something millennials do, it’s where they live. Brands have to bring social channels into real time to connect with them on more than one level. 2. Make the airport shopping experience experientialMillennials love parties and experiences, particularly ones they can share. So think how to bring a brand to life in airport retail. A competition to win a beauty make-over, complete with photographs, or a make-over by a blogger or social-media influencer. 3. Cater to millennials’ ‘grazing’ habitsMillennials graze cosmetics counters, collecting samples and testing products. They lack brand loyalty and are attracted to newness, and have less disposable income. Smart beauty brands are offering smaller ‘taster’ packs of make-up, ‘try before you buy’ and free gifts.

UK-based Blackjack Promotions is a staffing solutions, travel retail and experiential agency. For more information: www.blackjackpromotions.co.uk

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 2

Comment Retail insights & Travel retail

Tech bytes & Netwatch

Trending & Companies to watch

Data & Around the world

Interview Zoom in on In case you missed it

Seen in show

Page 3: #184 BEAUTY Subscribe INSIGHT - BW Confidential · Millennials love parties and experiences, particularly ones they can share. So think how to bring a brand to life in airport retail

San Francisco-based Tribe Dynamics shares exclusive data about beauty trends and brands making waves on social media

L’Oréal Paris engages influencers through Sir John master classWhile it did not rank among Tribe Dynamics Top 10 brands, L’Oréal Paris collected $6.7m in earned media value (EMV) and posted a 70% month-over-month increase in January in the UK, outpacing the Top 10’s average 32% month-over-month growth. The brand engaged influencers including

Hayley Clough (@hayleycloughxo on Instagram) through a master class hosted by make-up artist Sir John Barnett (@sirjohnofficial). The event prompted enthusiastic content, with Hayley sharing that she was “so grateful” to L’Oréal Paris for an invitation to such “such a memorable master class.” Overall, mentions of “sirjohnofficial” garnered $115.8k EMV. Tribe Dynamics is a San Francisco-based software company that helps beauty, fashion and lifestyle brands drive and measure digital earned media at scale. For more stories and rankings of top brands and products in international beauty, check out Tribe Dynamics’ January Tribe Top 10 report here.

Tech bytes

• Amazon is strengthening its connected home capabilities. The company acquired wi-fi company Eero this month, adding to a lineup of connected products for use in consumers’ homes, such as its Echo voice assistant. Eero sells mesh home routers, which help avoid wi-fi dead zones. The acquisition will see Amazon collect even more valuable consumer data on devices and connected appliances used in the home.

• For its inaugural print magazine, due out this month, digital content title Dazed Beauty used AI system Beauty_GAN to do Kylie Jenner’s hair and make-up. The algorithm analyzed over 17,000 beauty-related Instagram posts to add totally computer-generated looks to an image of Jenner shot by photographer Daniel Sannwald.

• US department store Bloomingdale’s sought to immerse shoppers in a virtual landscape with its Carousel@Bloomindale’s digital retail experience, which debuted at its Manhattan flagship last month. Floor-to-ceiling, high-definition video walls aim to engulf customers in a themed landscape, with rotating visual stories transporting them to different destinations while surrounded by new products and brands. Design studio Float4 is reportedly creating six pieces of content for the concept’s first year, using a mix of live action footage and real-time graphics.

Netwatch

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 3

Comment Retail insights & Travel retail

Tech bytes & Netwatch

Trending & Companies to watch

Data & Around the world

Interview Zoom in on In case you missed it

Seen in show

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• Source ingredients from up to 800 suppliers • Touch and try the latest innovations

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• Establish profi table business networks

Register and learn more at in-cosmetics.com/global#incosGlobal

7214 in-cosmetics Global 19 Master Advert 210x297mm.indd 1 02/10/2018 11:46

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Trending

Companies to watch

PWDR. Founded by former attorney Carrington Snyder in 2018, US-based PWDR is a ‘bring-your-own-water’ brand that claims to eliminate potentially harmful stabilizing agents with its range of clean and powder-based skincare. Purporting to be less harsh on skin and better for the environment, the brand uses mainly vegan ingredients. PWDR currently has three skus: The Rose Exfoliating Face Wash, Powder To Gel Treatment Serum and Top Coat Treatment Face Oil (the only non-powder product in the range). Products are sold through PWDR’s e-commerce platform, priced between $45 and $110.

Zao. A bamboo pen given to co-founder David Reccole by a Taiwanese business partner sparked the idea of using bamboo not just as sustainable packaging but also as an ingredient, resulting in the creation of color cosmetics brand Zao in 2012. The brand claims to be eco-responsible, re-fillable, natural, organic and vegan. It was recently picked up by French retailers Le Drugstore Parisien and Printemps. Zao’s first stores just opened in Morocco and Reccole’s next goal is to open stores across major cities such as Paris, New York and Tokyo.

The Unscented Company. This Canadian brand offers a range of fragrance-free products for the home and body, including shampoos, soap bars and lip balm. The brand was launched in 2016. Founder Anie Rouleau said in a statement this month that sales doubled in the last year.

According to the PwC Global Consumer Insights Survey 2018,

41% of online shoppers would pay extra for same-day delivery. To keep up with the likes of Amazon, retailers such as L’Occitane and M&S are now partnering with

outside companies to get products from store to door faster.

The next big thing in personalization? Non-

personalization. According to Mintel, almost half of UK consumers

don’t want personalized beauty and grooming products, with 34%

believing customization inflates prices. A study by US consultancy

Forrester found that more than half of consumers worry about retailers knowing too much about them.

Reduce-reuse-recycle. More retailers are responding to

concerns over packaging waste by encouraging customers to bring

their own containers to stores or by expanding refill offers. The trend could even see the emergence of

new product formats.

Yoga Skin has taken social media by storm ever since UK

make-up artist Sara Hill coined the term and posted her tutorial on

Instagram. The technique includes ‘cocktailing’, meaning blending

precise ratios of foundation, facial oil and highlighting products

before application to achieve a lit-from-within look.

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 5

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Data

Around the world• China’s Lunar New Year sales saw the lowest increase on record this year in the week through February 10, as the economic slowdown impacted spend.Sales in the retail and food-and-drink industries were up 8.5% to RMB 1.005 trillion

($149bn), the Ministry of Commerce said, down 1.7 percentage points on 2018. Online shopping continued to drive overall consumption, while department stores and shopping centers saw a slump in spending.While there have been concerns over economic growth in China, with consumers

spending less on categories like cars and real estate, most major cosmetics companies say they are not feeling the impact of any slowdown in the country.

• Retail sales in the US in December saw the biggest monthly decline in almost a decade, fueling fears of a potential slowdown in the country. US retail and food service sales fell 1.2% to $505.8bn from the previous month, according to government figures. Sales at department stores were down 3.3%, while there was a 3.9% decrease at internet retailers.

France’s beauty market

• Sales of hygiene and beauty products in France were better in 2018 than in 2017, but still recorded a 0.2% decline in value and 0.8% drop in volume, according to figures from Kantar Worldpanel presented at a CEW France event in Paris last week. Kantar said that consumers in the country had simplified their beauty routines and that the natural trend is also resulting in fewer purchases. Facial skincare was the category that recruited the largest number of new consumers in France in 2018.

• Kantar reported that e-commerce is becoming more important, with one in three French consumers buying hygiene and beauty products online in the year to September 2018, for a total spend of €1.54bn. French consumers purchase hygiene and beauty products 4.2 times per year online and spend €23.10 on 2.3 items each time they buy.

• Kantar stated that advertising investment in hygiene and beauty products in France reached €1.9bn in 2018, an increase of 2% over 2017. Some 71% of spend was on TV ads (+6% vs 2017), while 15% was in the press (-7% vs 2017) and 5% was on web display ads (-11% vs 2017). By category, fragrance accounts for 33% of ad spend at €636m, up 1% compared with 2017. Skincare ad spend reached €460m last year, up 5%, while ad spend on make-up rose 18% to €101m. The biggest category for ad spend is the ‘other’ segment, which includes daily hygiene products and accounts for 38% of spend, or €738m.

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 6

Comment Retail insights & Travel retail

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What do you see as driving renewed growth in skincare? Novel skincare regimes and ingredients are rejuvenating the global skincare market. Skincare solutions such as boosting serums, sleeping masks and cushions have become popular, creating a window of innovation for beauty companies. Another trend is that consumers are willing to pay for skincare that works. This can be seen in our latest results from the third quarter 2018, where the skincare category drove growth for the luxury unit. This trend will continue in Korea and Asia, where healthy skin is an ideal of beauty, and around the world as the wellness trend continues to grow.

What do you see as the key challenges for skincare brands in the current market?One important task for all skincare brands under Amorepacific is to expand education and the discussion around new skincare routines and ingredients, especially for our global audience. Having provided sleeping masks and cushions, we would like consumers to find more customized skincare routines through our products. This also applies to ingredients. Asian botanicals provide the skin unmatched vitality, and so stories of our research into green tea, ginseng and beans are topics that we want to increase awareness of in our global markets.

How is AmorePacific approaching ‘clean’ skincare, given the many definitions it can have? The essence of clean beauty, in my opinion, is the customer’s proactive approach. It is a positive process, especially when a sensitive customer can learn about new ingredients or properties that work for them. Amorepacific was ahead of the clean beauty curve even before it became

fashionable. In the 80s, Amorepacific launched a hypoallergenic brand named SOON in France, and has been consistently introducing 3-free to 5-free formulas through diverse skincare brands.For our main clean beauty brand, primera,

the ingredients are continually monitored to reassure customers regarding their concerns by communicating that all the products are free of chemicals from four to ten (4-free to 10-free formulas). The essence of primera’s research is

in delivering the benefits of nutrients concentrated in seeds to the skin. We believe that primera has fully matured in the Korean market over the past 20 years, and we will launch it in the US and China in the second half of this year. n

”Amorepacific head of Amorepacific and primera division (svp) Kimberly Kim

Novel skincare regimes and ingredients are rejuvenating the global skincare market. Another trend is that consumers are willing to pay for skincare that works

Interview Amorepacific head of Amorepacific and primera division (svp) Kimberly Kim

Korean group Amorepacific’s Kimberly Kim talks about how she sees the skincare market and the company’s approach to the clean beauty trend

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 7

Amorepacific is looking to bring its clean skincare brand primera to the US and China this year

s

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Zoom in on: L’Oréal

The market The beauty market saw its best growth in 20 years, according to L’Oréal chairman and ceo Jean-Paul Agon (pictured), with sales up 5.5%. Fueling the market’s growth were luxury products, Asia, e-commerce and travel retail. These same key drivers are set to continue to boost the market this year. For 2019, Agon predicts that the market will “grow at a good pace.”

Digital Agon called e-commerce the most dynamic channel in beauty and said that digital is boosting the market, especially for big brands. Some 43% of the group’s media spend is now in digital. E-commerce represents 11% of sales and grew by 40.6% in 2018. In the Luxe division, e-commerce sales account for 16% of the business, while in the Consumer Products division, half of sales in China are done through e-commerce.

ChinaL’Oréal remains bullish on China and said that it had seen no slowdown in the country in the fourth quarter of last year nor in January this year. Highlighting his confidence in the country, L’Oréal deputy ceo in charge of divisions Nicolas Hieronimus said that the Chinese middle class is set to reach 850 million by 2030, up from 300 million today (citing OECD figures), and that penetration of beauty per capita spend in China is only one fifth of what it is in markets such as the US and France. Hieronimus added: “The fact that [the Chinese] are spending a little bit less on houses and cars is not necessarily a bad thing for us.” The Luxe division’s sales increased 52% in China in 2018, while the Consumer Products division’s sales rose 15.7%. The group claimed that Lancôme and L’Oréal Paris are both the number-one brands in their respective channels in the country. L’Oréal’s sales in Asia Pacific exceeded those done in North America last year, and the region should be its number-one zone very soon. L’Oréal still has only an 8.7% market share in Asia Pacific, leaving much room for growth.

Skincare The group described 2018 as the year of skincare. The global skincare market rose 9% last year, according to L’Oréal, and the group posted growth of 16% in the category.

Travel retailThe group’s travel-retail sales crossed the €2bn mark in 2018 and saw growth of 27.1%. L’Oréal estimates that the travel-retail market for beauty grew by 22% last year.

Western EuropeThe region continues to be affected by the sluggishness of some markets, such as France and the UK, and by a slowdown in the make-up category. Group sales in the region fell 0.7% (-0.3% like-for-like) in a market that L’Oréal estimated to be flat. L’Oréal said, however, that it raised its advertising and promotional expenses in the region to better prepare it for the future. Agon does not foresee Western Europe worsening in 2019.

L’Oréal saw its best growth in 10 years with 2018 sales up 7.1% like-for-like to €26.9bn. BW Confidential zeros in on the key issues affecting the company and the market gleaned from L’Oréal’s annual results meeting in Paris

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 8

Comment Retail insights & Travel retail

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The Luxe division L’Oréal’s Luxe division saw a 10.6% (+14.4% like-for-like) increase in sales to €9.37bn, making 2018 a historic year for the division. Big brands were the star performers at the division, with sales at Lancôme crossing the €3bn mark. The division’s four billionaire brands (Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani and Kiehl’s) saw double-digit growth. The company says that its 2019 launch plan is stronger than in 2018, and that this will be the first year for its new fragrance license, Valentino. L’Oréal said it had “no comment” on rumors that it was looking to acquire the Prada fragrance license, which is currently held by Puig.

NaturalsThe group, especially the Consumer Products division, is putting a strong focus on naturals. Last year it acquired German naturals company Logocos Naturkosmetik, created a naturals brand from scratch, La Provençale, and is involved in a major roll out of a naturals line from Garnier, called Garnier Bio. Consumer Products division president Alexis Perakis-Valat said that the catch-all naturals beauty market (encompassing natural, naturally-inspired products and organic items) accounts for 15% of the beauty market, and that truly natural and organic products represent around one quarter of that. n

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 9

APRIL 10 & 11, 2019S H A N G H A I E X H I B I T I O N C E N T E RLos Angeles . New York . Monaco . Shanghai www.luxepack.com

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Zoom in on: L’Oréal

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Seen in show: PCD Paris

Verescence put the focus on its sustainability credentials, particularly its eco-design solutions for luxury brands. The company highlighted the bottle it created for Bulgari’s Man Wood Essence (pictured), made from 90% recycled glass using Verescence’s Verre Infini Neo. Verescence says that the Verre Infini Neo is the first premium and completely clear recycled glass composed of 25% post-consumer recycled glass (PCR), 65% in-house cullet and 10% raw materials, giving a total of 90% recycled materials.

Aptar showed a sampling dispensing unit that delivers its Imagin extra-flat fragrance samples. For the project, Aptar teamed up with UK-based sampling device company Odore, which builds units that dispense fragrance or beauty samples based on consumers’ answers to questions on-screen. Odore collects consumer data, which is sent back to brands. Aptar sees potential for the devices in pop-up stores and in travel retail.

HCT showed its Precision Dropper (pictured), a dropper pen available in travel-friendly formats of 15ml or 30ml that is intended for serums and liquid foundations. The squeezable tube has an aluminum shell cover and an ultra-fine nozzle that allows for precise dosage.

French company Fareva showed its new range of skin and personal-care formulations with transforming textures. Products include the Metamorphosis Bath Bomb, a tablet or powder that becomes a gel when immersed in water; the Famousse Shower Gel, which changes from a gel to a mousse on contact with water; and the Reveal It! Mask for the face, which starts as a gel and becomes a peel-off film when sprayed with an activator.

Diam Color, the plastic injection and coloring arm of Diam’s Diam Pack division, presented its Full BuY solution for brands. The full-service offer includes design and manufacturing of testers, dummies and packaging, plus delivery and installation in stores across Europe and in-store monitoring of units and replenishment of products and shades.

Albéa exhibited a connected make-up compact. Developed with CMSmartconnect, the compact incorporates NFC technology and can link to brands’ digital content. This creates a closer connection with the user, and enables instant monitoring of consumer interactions, as well as the collection and analysis of data. It costs €53,000 for a minimum order of 100,000 units.

Alliora presented its sustainable partnership with Yves Rocher, for which it made gift boxes for Christmas 2018. Made with scrap cardboard from Yves Rocher packaging, the boxes help in promoting a circular economy, the company said.

Sampling Innovations Europe showed its Self Sampling dispenser for fragrance samples. The compact device can be integrated into shelving at the point of sale or be part of a podium animation, and is fully automated to dispense a single sample at the touch of a button. The machine can be customized to collect customer data. The company also showed its Scent Duo perfume sampler (pictured). A folded card that releases scent upon opening, it’s a cost-effective and practical alternative to glass vials, the company said.

BW Confidential highlights the most interesting innovations presented at the PCD Paris trade show, which took place from January 30-31

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 10

For more information on the Precision Dropper, please contact your local HCT Sales Representative. hctgroup.com | [email protected]

PRECISION DROPPER

FEATURES

The Precision Droppers combines a sleek, detailed design with travel-friendly functionality that can be paired with a variety of skincare and liquid color options.

DETAILS

The Precision Dropper has been redesigned from its predecessor to perform even more effectively and uphold the standard of the HCT stock packaging collection. HCT Group is known around the world for its comprehensive selection of stock packaging solutions; find out how you can use the Precision Dropper in your beauty line today.

TRAVEL READYAnd with its slender design, the Precision Dropper is an easy pack-and-go component, making it anyone’s perfect travel companion.

INNOVATIVE DESIGNThis component showcases a squeezable tube with a protective aluminum over shell for added durability. Its ultra-fine nozzle allows for precise dosage of your favorite skincare care or liquid color formulas.

MATERIALSBottle: LDPE Overshell: Aluminum

SIZES15 ML 30 ML

FORMULA PAIRINGSSerums & liquid color formulations.

15 ML 30 ML

23.74 mm

20.2 mm

141.72 mm

127 mm

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French packaging company Temepack showed its ‘live logo’, which uses LED-like technology to add flexible artwork to products. The company has created an optical fiber panel that displays different configurations of light, with which a still or moving image, for example an animated logo, can be added to apparel or other objects.

US company Silgan Dispensing presented its new XpresService for fragrance and skincare. The system includes libraries of colored metal components for fragrance and skincare bottles, helping brands save up to six weeks in production time and allowing for quotes to be given on the spot. The company also launched its PCR (post-consumer recycling) initiative at the show. Silgan has launched a series of stock PCR plastic dispensers for personal-care and home products and aims to widen this portfolio.

Glassmaker Stoelzle Masnieres Parfumerie showcased its new-generation Quali Glass Coat 2.0 (pictured), a powder paint decoration process for bottles. The company has developed a wider range of colors for the process and opaque bottles can now be laser engraved. The company says the process uses no solvents and reduces the carbon footprint by 77% compared with liquid spraying.

France-based packaging company Coverpla unveiled its Ecoline range of eco-designed bottles and jars (pictured) developed with glassmaker Bormioli Luigi. The two bottles in the range (50ml and 100ml) weigh 40% less than traditional bottles and have a neck shape compatible with a standard screw pump (meaning they can be refilled, and recycled as each part can be separated). The bottles also mean a reduction of 60% in C02 across the supply chain compared with plastic, blown or pressed glass. Coverpla has also designed a specific trim for the standard pump that can be matched with any of the caps in its catalog.

France-based Cosmogen showed its Sculpting Glove, a patented two-sided silicone glove where one side is designed to exfoliate and the other to massage the skin. The company also presented its Perfect Match brush (pictured), designed to apply liquid foundation. The brush has a silicone reservoir embedded in its center, which can catch the formula and help to achieve a more uniform application.

Key trends from the show• Sustainability was the key topic of conversation, with suppliers saying the issue is becoming more important in their discussions with clients• The rise of plastic bashing is seeing more brands return to glass• Many see the need for an industry-wide or governmental-approved chart to show how exactly and to what extent products are sustainable, similar to energy charts that exist for electrical appliances• A rise in re-fillable items, even for luxury brands•Some predict an increase in new materials that do less damage to the environment and produce less waste to be disposed of at the end of the chain• A focus on less toxic decoration techniques for bottles which also enables easy cleansing to help recyclability

Seen in show: PCD Paris

www.bwconfidential.com - Beauty Insight - February 19-March 4, 2019 #184 - Page 11

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In case you missed it

JAB Holding offers to buy another 20% of Coty

Amorepacific strikes distribution deal with AS Watson

Venture capital fund for beauty and wellness launches

Barneys New York to launch luxury cannabis lifestyle shop

Groupe Bogart signs distribution deal with Beauty Alliance

Rituals opens first store in Americas travel retail

Alibaba takes stake in video platform Bilibili

Givaudan opens fragrance encapsulation center in Singapore

Macy’s appoints new chief merchandising officer

Shiseido profit up 170% in fiscal 2018

Avon sales fall 10% in fourth quarter

Douglas sales up 7.2% in first quarter fiscal 2018-19

NPD launches nationality tracker to study traveler shopping behavior

Applications open for the Cosmetic Victories awards 2019

Go to bwconfidential.com for full stories and daily news updates

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BW Confidential 17 rue Louis Rouquier, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France [email protected] Tel: +33 (0) 1 74 63 49 61 www.bwconfidential.com ISSN: 2104-3302 Publisher: Nicolas Grob [email protected] Editorial Director: Oonagh Phillips [email protected] Journalist & Copy Editor: Katie Nichol [email protected] Journalist: Monica Defrances [email protected] Contributors: Sophie Douez, Alex Wynne, Renata Ashcar, Mayu Saini, Corinne Blanché, Naomi Marcoulet, Kevin Rozario, Tina Milton Subscriptions 1 year: Beauty Insight (20 issues) + Print Magazine (4 issues) + This Week in Beauty + Daily News + Collector’s Guide + Beauty & Travel Retail Special Edition: €549/US$769 [email protected] Advertising [email protected] BW Confidential is published by Noon Media 513 746 297 RCS Nanterre Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

In the next issue of BW Confidential’s Beauty Insight to be published March 5, 2019:

How retailers can better edit their assortment

PLUS: • The latest retail and tech news • Interview • Travel retail data • Beauty trends • Social media insights

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Comment Retail insights & Travel retail

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Data & Around the world

Interview Zoom in on In case you missed it

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