1920s Berliner STYLLetter from the editor Cordelia Bellinghausen

From my open-air office on the Strasse just outside the gateway to 1920s Berlin Project, I have the perfect vantage point from which to observe a continuous parade of women going about their day. I’ve noticed a great transformation happening in fashion. It started right after the end of the First World War (WWI) when we women began working outside the home. Where once the rules for dress were very strict, today it’s acceptable to adopt a much more natural and relaxed style.

Today, the “Neue Frau” (New Woman) leads a much freer life, including active sports participation. In the 1920s we have lots of new styles in fashion, but also in machines and technologies. How very “moderne” we are with our telephones, radios and automobiles. Here in Berlin I’ve seen any number of ladies behind the wheel speeding along; dressed for the open air.

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And who among us has not heard the news of Marga von Etzdorf, who in 1927 was the first German woman to pass licensing examinations for commercial, glider, sports and stunt flying? This is a time when women not only think differently, but behave differently. We still want to be admired for our beauty and the stylishness of our ensembles, but our new mobility demands that our clothing be functional too. The keyword is streamlined.

Where once it was all about the bosom, nowadays, the 1920s fashions ignore the waist and breasts. Skirt length is abbreviated, and what we used to push up with corsets, we now flatten with bras and bodices. In desperation to have a boyishly slim figure, some women suppress their hunger with “opium, diets, and nicotine”. Who could have imaginged that pajamas would be a style now worn by women for night-wear, and short bobbed-hair would look young and carefree on ladies at any age?

This first issue of 1920s Berliner STYL Magazin features select looks from the most creative SL designers. In Berlin of this era, women and men dressed elegantly with flair. This magazine is written, photographed, and edited with those qualities foremost on every page.

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1920s Berliner STYL

TABLE OF CONTENTS

DER FRULING / DER SOMMER MODE JOURNAL #1

Lettre from the Editor......................................................................2Guten Morgen....................................................................................16Reisen...................................................................................................24Lernen..................................................................................................30Guten Tag............................................................................................36Nacht Vogel.........................................................................................42Tanz und Singen.................................................................................49Glitzern Palast....................................................................................54What’s Fashionable Now.................................................................62STYL Sprechen / Deutsch Vocabulary...........................................67Louise Brooks: New Woman in Weimar Cinema.......................70

Guten Morgen

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Morgen

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Guten Morgen:

On the cover: Floral Sunrise ensemble by Sonatta MoralesIncludes: hat, gloves, scarf, blouse, skirt available at Sonatta Morales Weird Couture,1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Day Dress Betty ensemble by Kembri Tomsen white with blue polka-dot. Includes: hat, gloves, stockings, and dress. available at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24)

Lillian Poplin floral dress by Mila Edelmanavailable at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Rose floral box cloche hat by Bubbles Roxan available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Woven Straw Totebag with flowersavailable at Curio, Curio (128,128,37)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project.

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1920s Berliner STYL

EDITOR IN CHIEFZeno McAuley

CREATIVE DIRECTORGstone Turas

FASHION EDITORCordelia

Bellinghausen

EDITOR AT LARGEPadraica Yatsenko

PUBLISHERGstone Turas

24 Magdalenenstrasse1920s Berlin Project

Published Semi-Annually as a Supplement to 1920s Berliner Post Newspaper

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Reisen

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ReisenPhotographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Mitteleuropaische Reiseburo, 1920s Berlin Project.

Blue Elise Dress by Bubbles Roxan Includes: hat, white kid gloves, fur stoleavailable at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Vintage Luggage and Travel Postersavailable at Mitteleuropaische Reiseburo, 1920s Berlin Project,Dudintsev 992,77,500)

Beach in Navy by Katrina PugilistWhite with navy trim sailor ensemble compiled from a Victorian Bathing costume. Includes: blouse, skirt, anchor earrings and necklace.available at Kat’s Meow Costumes, Caledon, Highlands (162,161,41)

Red Beret with blond hair by Bubbles Roxan available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Lernen

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LernenPhotographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Offentliche Bibliothek, 1920s Berlin Project.

Madison Black and Yellow Dress by L’ Abelavailable at Ivalde Vintage & Retro Fashion (92,122,28)

Black and Yellow box cloche hat by Bubbles Roxanavailable at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Fur Stole and Bracelets by Donna Floraavailable at Donna Flora, Bonin (194,130,22)

Gwen Belted Sweater, with Dotty Red Tie by Tres Blahavailable at Tres Blah, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

Harvest Bloom Pleated Skirt in black by *Icing*available at Icing, Mischief Cove, Mischief (130,157,23)

Eyeglasses available at RC Cluster, Salchicka Harbor (197,179,45)Gold Earrings by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable free at Nouveau (65,63,30)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Guten Tag

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Guten TagPhotographed by Gstone Turas on Location at Hotel Nussbaum, 1920s Berlin Project.

Merle’s Flapper Dress in copper by Cartunno CoutureThe Great Gatsby CollectionIncludes: dress, and headpieceavailable at Cartunno Couture - Period Clothing in Terric (211,87,21)

Long Beaded Bow Pearl Necklace by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

Meant for Him Dress in lavender by Cartunno CoutureSinging in the Rain Collection Includes: dress and shoulder capeletavailable at Cartunno Couture - Period Clothing in Terric (211,87,21)

Geometric Crystal Chandelier Earrings by Paper CoutureWater Over Wine Ring by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Nacht Vogel

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Nacht Vogel

Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project.

Peonies 1920s Evening Gown by Kembri TomsenIncludes: Peacock Headpieceavailable at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24)

Pearl Necklace, 1, 2, or 3 strands by CurioAvailable at Curio, Curio (128,128,37)

Olga green beaded dress by L’ Abelavailable at Ivalde Vintage & Retro Fashion (92,122,28)

Pearl Fruit Earrings by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Tanz undSingen

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Tanz und Singen

Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Der Keller Tanzlokal, 1920s Berlin Project.

Pink Melba Sunrise Gown by Donna Flora available at Donna Flora Boutique, Bonin (194,130,22)

Geometric Crystal Chandelier Earrings by Paper CoutureWater Over Wine Ring by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

Crystal Gown by Sonatta Morales *8*Includes: Jewelry, stockings, Ostrich plume headpiece and fanavailable at Sonatta Morales Weird Couture, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500)

All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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GlitzernPalast

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Glitzern PalastPhotographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at UFA ASTA Cinema lobby, and a Private Residence Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project,

Charity Gold Lame Evening Dress by Kembri TomsenThe 7 Virtues Collectionavailable at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24) Vintage Parakeet Feather shrug by Paper Couture

Sapphire Sequined Starlet Evening Dress by *Icing*Includes: Fascinator feather headpieceavailable at Icing, Mischief Cove, Mischief (130,157,23)

Fishnet wrapped Black Pearls by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

Satin Flapper Shoes by Mila Edelman1920s Flapper Dress Cecille by Mila EdelmanFlapper Brass and Pearl Headpiece by Mila Edelmanall available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project,Dudintsev (92,77,500)

Noir and Gold Earrings and Necklace by Paper CoutureBird Ring by Paper Coutureavailable at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25)

All other shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennuiavailable at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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What’s Fashionable Now:

The “Flapper Girl” silhouette is born. Other signature styles are transparent materials like chiffon, and any material that drapes beautifully. Trim decorations and embellishments like glass pearls, and silk fringes on dresses, and blouses are all the rage.

Now uncovered, the lower leg is the central focus and errogenous zone. Stylish hosiery is an important part of any ensemble. Opaque tights in white or blush; real silk or artificial silk stockings are now readily available and inexpensive. I’ve noticed that often women don’t wear tights or stockings at all, and instead they show bare legs, and bare backs!

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ACCESSORIES of the 1920s

OBJECTS:Cigarette-holder, strings of pearls, large cocktail rings, jewelry, handbags, compact, gloves, cigarette-case and boa or fan made of plume feathers.,

HATS:Cloche hats worn low over the brow, and for evening, turbans, silk head scarves tied with ends worn to one side, headbands embellished with embroidery, beadwork, and feather plumes. Hats with wide elliptical brims at the front and side, are often brimless at the nape of the neck.

MAKE-UP:Cosmetics are now popular: Red lipstick for the mouth, powder and rouge (a round splodge). Eyebrows are picked and a black line is drawn, green or blue eye-shadow, black eye-liner and fake eyelashes with a diamond are used.

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SHOES:The “Mary-Jane” style with narrow rounded-toe and cross strap or t-strap in leather and suede for day. Heel height is not more than two inches.In the evening women wear jewelled evening shoes in silk and satin (dancing shoes). Heel height is low not more than two inches.

HAIR:The styling is short hair; bobbed hair-curled, or straight with bangs. All cuts are above the shoulder line, and most are above the chin-line.

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STYL SprechenFASHION VOCABULARY (1920-1930)English/German

adjustable strap - verstellbaren Riemchenannèes folles - andere Bezeichnung für die 20erbaggy - sackartigbell-shaped - glockigbelt - Gürtelblouse - Blusebobbed hair - Bubikopfbutton - Knopfcalf - Wadencoat - Mantelcollar - Kragencorsets -Korsettcover - bedeckencuff -Manschettedecade - Zeitraumembroidery - Strickarbeit

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FASHION VOCABULARY (1920-1930)

English/German

fur - Pelzglass pearls - Glasperlenlow neckline - Decolletésmaterial - Stoffpetticoat - Unterrocksilk-fibre - Seidenfransenskin - Hautstrap -Trägertight-fitting - enganliegendtight - Strumpfto fall - fallento flatten -flachdrückento last - dauernupper part - Oberteilwaist - Taillewool-combination - Baumwollkombination

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STYL Sprechen

English / German

a round splodge - runder Fleckbobble-hair - Bubikopfcigarette-case - Zigarrettenetuicigarette-holder - Zigarretenspitzecompact - Puderdosefake eyelashes - falsche Wimpernfan-plum - Straußenfederfächerhead-scarf - Kopftuchstring of pearls - Perlenkette

to pick- zupfen

SourcesBoucher, Francois: 20,000 Years of Fashion. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1966.Seeling, Charlotte: Mode - das Jahrhundert der Designer. Köln: Könemann, 1999.Lehnert, Gertrud: Schnellkurs Mode. Köln: Dumont, 1998.

1920s Accessories Sprechen

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American Louise Brooks stars in the 1929 film Pandora’s Box, directed by German Georg Wilhelm Pabst in his New Objectivity period. The film is based on two plays by Frank Wedekind (Erdgeist and Die Büchse der Pandora) and Brooks plays the central figure Lulu.

This film is notorious for its frank treatment of modern sexual mores, including the first screen portrayal of a lesbian. It a very “adult” film and considered shocking for its portrayals of sexuality, as well as for its cutting social satire.

LuLu is a STYL REVOLUTIONARY!

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