197209 desert magazine 1972 september

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SEPTEMBER, 1972082S6

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D e s e r t M a g a z i n e B o o k G h o pGUIDEBOOK TO THE SAN JACINTO MOUNTAINSby Russ Leadabrcind. An author i tat ive wr i terwhose guidebooks have been used by discern-ing travelers for many years, Leadabrcnd is up-dat ing and revising his books. His new travelguide to the Riverside County mountain areascovers the Deser Divide Coun try, Cahuil laMountain, Thomas Mountain and a por t ion ofthe Santa Rosa Mountains, i l lus t rated wi th pho-tographs and mops, heavy paperback, 102pages, $1.95.DUTCH OVEN COOKBOOK by Don Holm. Wi ldl i fe editor of the Port land Oregonian, the authorhas spent his l i fe exoloring and writ ing aboutthe outdoors, so I s 'ecipes for preparing foodin a Dutch Oven :cre from experience. I f youhaven't had food cooked in a Dutch Oven, youhaven 't l ived . . and if you have you wil lfind these recipe" new and excit ing culinaryadve ntures as we l as his style of wri t ing .Heavy paperback, 106 pages, $3.95.GOLD AND SILVER IN THE WEST by T. H. Wat-kins. The author b: rigs together for the first timethe ent ire story of cold and si lver mining in heWest. I t tel ls of con qi istadores chasing m yths inOld Mexico, gold : ind si lver str ikes in the West,Alaska, Mex ico and "anada, the rise ancJ fal l ofmining ventures, pronotional schemes and to-day's operat ions. Hardbound, large format , 212illustrations (75 ir 4 color] 288 pag es, $13.9 5unt i l Dec. 31 then $17.5 0.LOST MINES OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST by JohnD. Mitchell. The first of Mitchell's lost minebooks is now avcnlaole after having been out ofprint for years. Reo'oduced from the originalcopy and contain ng 54 art ic les based on ac-counts from people Mitchell interviewed. Hespent his entire adult l i fe invest igat ing reportsand legends of lest mines and treasures of theSouthwest. Hardcover, i l lustrated, 175 pages,$7 . 50 .NEVADA GHOSTby Stanley W. Pa17 counties, Pahecamps, many ofthe earth. The b


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WILLIAM K NYVETT, PUBLISHERJACK PEPPER, EDITORG EO RG E BRA G A , Ar t DirectorM A RY F RA N CES S TRO N G , Field Trip EditorEN ID C. H O W ARE', Utah Associate EditorG L E N N V A R G A S , Lapidary EditorK. L. B O Y N T O N , NaturalistMARVEL BARRETT Circulation Manager

Volum e 35, Num ber 9 SEPTEMBER, 1972

CONTENTSF E A T U R E S

T H E COVER:, Once a perilous andsometimes fatal experi-ence, running the "wildrivers" of the West todaywith veteran and licensedriver guides is safer thandriving on a metropolitanfreeway, especially sincethere is no oncoming traf-fic! Cataract Canyon in theupper Colorado River tiasboth smooth water andrugged rapids as describedin an article in this isssue.Photo by Enid C. Howard,Monticel lo , Utah.

DESERT HIKING TRAILUTAH'S DREAM MINE

SHOVEL-NOSED SAN D SNAKEAPACHE RECREATION LAND

RUNNING THE COLORADO RAPIDSWOOD IN BROKEN HILLS

UTAH'S HEBER CREEPER

Robert W. GailGeorge W. ThompsonK. L. BoyntonWilliam D. FitzwaterJack PepperMary Frances StrongCarol-Ann Fuller

D E P A R T M E N T S

A PEEK IN THE PUBLISHER'S POKEBOOK REVIEWS

CALENDAR OF EVENTSRAMBLING O N ROCKS

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

William KnyvettJack Pepper

Club ActivitiesGlenn and M artha VargasReaders' Comments

EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION AND ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-109 Larrea St . , Palm Deser t , Cal ifornia 92260. Telephone Area Code714 346-8144. Listed in Standard Rate and Data. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States, Canada and Mexico; 1 year, $5.00; 2 years,$9-50; 3 years $13.00. Other foreign subscribers add $1.00 U.S. currency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in this issue. Allowfive weeks for change of address and send both new and old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly. Secondclass postage paid at Palm Desert. California and at additional mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1972by DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all contents must be secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts and photo-graphs WILL NOT BE RETURNED unless accompanied by a self-addressed and stamped envelope.


4/44

AS A DRILLBasic unit. Drills cle;m holes faster. Comes with

motor, chuck, foot rheostat, drill pan and drilling tem-.plate. Booklet of opeiaUng instructions included.Nickle Plate d - _ _ - _ $42.50(Does not include price of diamond drill point.)

DIAMOND DRILL POINTSGood drill point; ;irs necessary with any drillpress. Two styles are listed below. The solid style hasa drilling point composed of a special alloy and dia-mond bort. This type at drill is delicate and needs carein its use. However, \/ith care, the solid type is muchlonger lived and will drill more holes per dollar. Thehollow core style drill has a hollow steel tip which iscoated with diamonds by a special process. This styledrill, drills very fast and is less delicate and can beused by the beginner with good success. We do recom-mend this type drill for beginners and for extra fastdrilling in Opal, Obs dian, etc.N o . 14 2M M Hol low Tor ediamond drill point _ $6.50 EachThe N ew "WH IZ- Z-Z Sintered Diamond Drills

N o . Poin t Size Shu ik Size Price Each89 1.00 m m 1.011 m m _ $5.5090 1.50 m m 1.50 mm _ _ 5.0091 2.00 mm 2.0(1 mm _ _ 5.5092 2.50 mm 3/16 inch 6.0093 3.00 mm 3/:.6 ir.ch 7.0094 3.50 m m 1/8 inc h 8.0095 4.00 m m 1/(1 inc h 9.00P r i c e s o n r e q u e s t f o r l a rg e r d r i l l sup to 8 mmMetro Diamond Dril lVitromet Bondod Diamond Drills

Here are the handiest Vitromet Bonded DiamondTools developed for lie Jewelry and Lapidary Crafts-man for drilling, reariing and beveling Gemstones.Drills With 3/32" Shank

N o . 8 1 mm (3/16" diam ond depth) $7 .50N o . 9 IV 4 mm (3/16 ' ' d iam ond depth ) $7 .00N o . 10 lVfe m m _ $6 50N o . 11 2 mm s7 00N o . 13 2V4 m m _ $8.00N o . 6 3 m m _ $9.50N o . 7 3V4 m m _.._ $11.50N o . 5 4 mm . .. _ _ S14.00

Be sure to include suff icient postageany overpayment wi l l be re fundedSHIPLEY'SMINERAL HOUSE

On Hwy. 160 in southwest Colorado, 18 mileseast of Durango o' V/ 2 miles west of Bayfield.Mailing Address:SHIPLEY'S MINERAL HOUSE, Gem Village,Bayfield D. Colorado 81122Phone: 303-884-2632SEND FOR NEW CATALOG No. 9-B

LOTTIE M. SHIPLEY

A P e e ki n t h eP u b l i s h e r ' sP o k e

IN THE "Letters to the Edito r" pagethere is a selection of the hundredsof letters we received in response to oureditorial Time h Running Out in theJuly issue.

It also appears that metal detectors havebeen placed on the list of destructiveweapons" by a zealous ranger of theNational Park Service of the United StatesDepar tment of the Interior.

While using her metal detector on theisolated beaches of Padre Island, Texas,Joyce Smith was cited by a ranger whoalso confiscated her metal detector. Shecould be fined up to $500 and faces asix-month jail sentence.

W e do not know the exact details ofthe incident, and with due respect to themany fair-minded rangers within the Na-tional Park Serviceand the various stateparkswe are not making a hasty judge-ment of the citation.

But from the information we have re-ceived it appears that Mrs. Smith and herfamily were having a weekend pleasureouting and using their metal detectors tohunt coins on public land and not destroy-ing public property. Yet she was cited.

Also, according to our information, theranger was enforcing the Antiquit ies Actof 1916 and a later ame ndm ent. W e havestated many times the strict interpretationof the act is both outmoded and stupidand that the act should be revised to meetthe needs of today.

An explanation of the act will be print-ed in a forthcoming issue.

Th e citation of M rs. Sm ith whichcould have happened to youis just an-other example of why we who want tokeep our public lands open for recreation,should band together to protect our inher-ent rights.

F i n d a n d k e e pB - f a m o u sL O S T T R E A S U R E S

I F Y O U ' R EB R A V E E N O U G H

L o o k o u t f o r The fastestFUN in the West


5/44

In t roducing the brand newFisher Explorer IIThe makers of the first metal detector give you16 reaso ns why it's the"Cadillac" of all treasure huntingins t ruments . Yet its basic cost is only $229.50.

2 . ON/OFF/VOLUME CONTROL3. METER SENSITIVITY

4 . BUILT-IN SPEAKER

5. EARPHONE PLUG6. EXCLUSIVE LAMINATEDWOODGRAIN.Meikes Explorer II themost distinctive on themarket. Tough, scratch-resistant, beautiful!

1 . EXCLUSIVE DETACHABLE FEATURELets you use instrument assingleunit orwith electronics sectiondetached andworn 'round theneck

1 2 . REAL LEATHER NECK& WAIST STRAPS Included foruse with detached housing

7. WIDE-ANGLE METEREXCLUSIVE BATTERY TEST

9. METAL-MINERAL SELECTOR/FINGERTIP TUNING CONTROL1 0 . GENUINE WALNUT HAND GRIP

1 1 . TELESCOPINGROD13./14. CHOICE OFWATERPROOF SEARCH LOOPSYou canhave either the 6" or 12" oop at thebasic price (or have both loops for $50 extra)

15 . STAINLESS CONNECTORS

1 6 . EXCLUSIVE STEREO-TYPEHEADPHONESIncluded with basic unit.

DEALER I NQUI RES I NVI TED.M A S T E R C H A R G E / I N T E R B A NKC R E D I T I C AR D S W E L C O M E D .

OTHER FISHER DETECTORS:1 GEMINI $189.50 METALERT M70$158.50ORION 120599.50 ' ORION 121 $129.50MODEL T-23C $149.50Contact your loca l F isher dealer or usec o u p o n o p p o s i t e .

F I S H E R T R E A S U R E D E T E C T O R SDept. D M, P.O. Box490. Belmont.CA. 94002 -Since 1932a subsidiary of Cohu Electronics, Inc.

Gentlemen: I would like to order your new Explorer II with 6" loop or 12" loop @ $229.50. Both loops @ $279.50.D Mahogany Carrying Case $25.50. Add $3.00 shipping. Calif,residents add sales tax. Check or money order enclosed. Charge my Master Charge card #(Signature) Send free information onchecked opposi te.NAMEADDRESSCITY

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6/44

166 PAGESOF DETECTO RS-BOOK S-MAPS . . .METAL-MINE!RAL DETECTORSBY

WHITESGOLOAKMETFiOTECHGi^O-FINDERPRECISIONEXCELSIORDliTECTRONFISHERCOMF'ASS

General Electronic DetectionCo.16238 Lakewood BoulevardBELLFLOWER, CALIFORNIA 90 70 6J

B o o kR e v i e w sby Jack Pepper

All books reviewed are available throughDesert Magazine Book Shop

10 0H I K I N G T R A I L SByDon andRoberta Lowe

Since hiking is one of thege t away from the smog andcrowded areas, back-countryare combining thei r 4 W Dclimbing expedit ions. TheyORVs (off-road vehicles)areas and (especially duringmonths) "head for the hil ls.

few ways tohitherto un-

enthusiastssafaris with

leave theirin secludedthe summer

DAILY FROM MOAB: 2-Day Trip Through Westwater Canyon* 4-Day Trip to Beautiful Canyonlands

National Park Through MagnificentCataract Canyon.

5-Da y Trip Through Desolation Canyon .ALL MEALS, ftlVER EQUIPMENT AND

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Offices located atINCA INN MOTEL 570 N. MAIN, MOAB, UTAH 84532CALL 801-259-7261

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It 's good for the lungs, helps reduceChose flabby muscles and gets you reallyclose to Mother Nature. Don and RobertaLowe have written tw o books on Califor-nia's hiking trails: one on Northern Cali-fornia and the other on Southern Califor-nia. Each book describes 100 hiking trailsin the areas covered and are grouped ingeographic locations.

As a long-time desert rat and one notused to climbing into short-of-breath al-titudes, I appreciate their guide since theydescribe the length of time, distance,steepness of the climb and where to stopso you can breath and enjoy the scenery.

Their trips are described as "one day'or "backpack" depending upon how longyou want to stay or whether you are anamateur or professional hiker. Each tripdescribed includes a detailed to pogr aphicmap, scenic photograph of the area and allpert inent information, including historyand nature.

I have found that leaving my 4 W D an d"heading for the hills" on foot is a re-warding experience especially when Iknow where I am going, what to look forand when I will get back.

Both books are 225 pages, heavy paper-back, S5.95 each. When ordering statewhether you w a n t N O R T H E R N o rSOUTHERN Hi k i ng Tra i l s .

G E O L O G YF I E L D G U I D ET O S O U T H E R NC A L I F O R N I AByRobert P.Sharp

When you hear the word "geology" i tconveys the dictionary description of "ascience that deals with the earth's crustthe layers of which they are composed andtheir history." It also reminds us of thetime we had to take 'Geolog y I" to gethe required credits in school.

Ma n, that was a dry subject. 1 gotthrough with a "C" and then only be-cause the teacher took the class on fieldtrips so 1 could enjoy g etting away fromthe confines of the four walls.

I am certain I would have made an"A " if this book had been the requiredacademic reading. How would you likethis Preface in your old text book?


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"Most th ings arc interesting, even oldbleached cow bones, provided you know.something about them. Indeed, much ofthe pleasure of life comes from know-ledge, familiarity and understanding ofth ings, be they related to .sports, music,drama, science, art. birds and bees, flow-er s and trees.

"Among scientists, geologists are re-puted to have as much fun as anybody be-cause of their understanding and appre-ciation of the natural envi ronment . Anobjective of this effort is to share this funwith you."

I am not saying this book will replacethe comic section of the Sunday paper forthe youngsters as you drive along thehighway, but it is a refreshing and infor-mative way to study the geology of Cali-fornia as you take your Sunday outing orweekend 4WD excursion. Before doingso, however, I would suggest you use itto bone up on your geology as your pro-geny may be reading it in the back seatan d ask some questions you mi gh t not beable to answer after all "Geology I"wa s a long t ime ago.

W i t h its detailed aerial and locationmaps, photograph:- of the terrain, mileagein each area covered and easy-to-under-stand geological descriptions, plus whatfossils to look for and history of the area,you will find it easy reading. Also, if youbone up, you just might get a passinggrade and not have to take a final examwithin four stuffy walls. .

H e a v y p a p e r b a c k , g e o l o g i c a l t i m eschedule, glossary, well illustrated, 192pages, 12.95.

Books reviewed may be orderedfrom the DESERT Magazine BookOrder Department, Palm Desert,California 92260. Please include50c for handling;. California resi-dents must add 5% sales tax.

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8/44

B J 3 J _ , . -

I DesertI HikingTrail3 by Robert W.Gail

M-4

A s ED DOLAN cooled his feet in the icywaters oi: the upper Blitzen Riverhigh on Steens Mountain in Eastern Ore-gon, he noticed something moving towardhim in the water . He stood still and watch-ed as a beaver swam right up to him andinvestigated his feet. There could be nodoubt that the beaver had never seen ahuman being before, and was as curiousabout Ed as Ed was about him. While thiswas probably the f irst human being the

o


9/44

Although there has been no officialaction by Congress or money appro-priated, the Desert Hiking Trail is fastbecoming a reality. The U.S. Forest Ser-vice and Bureau of Land Managementare cooperating in laying out the trailwhich ivill extend from Canada toMexico through such scenic areas as theNevada landscape (opposite page) andthe Turtle Mo untains (right) in Cali-fornia.

beaver had ever seer, he was not likely tobe the last.Ed was a member of the Mazamas, aseventy-five-year-old hiking and moun-tain climbing club of Portland, Oregon,and one of a party making the first offi-cial hike over a part of the new DesertHiking Trail.Desert Hiking Trail' That's right!Planned to cross the United States fromCanada to Mexico, the Desert Trail hasbecome more than a dream and is rapidlybecoming a reality. Routes have alreadybeen proposed through Oregon by theU.S. Forest Service, the Malheur NationalWildlife Refuge and the U.S. Bureau ofLand Management. Planning is under wayin Idaho, Nevada and California.No official action has yet been taken byCongress to recognize the Desert Trail, or

appropriate money lor it, but several con-gressmen and senators are familiar withit and have expressed an interest in itsdevelopment. Local Forest Service and

J A r i z o n aEly Caliente

N e v a d a jShoshone B J k e rC a 1 r n i

BajaS C a l i f .


10/44

Russell Pengelly' right), originator of the Desert Hiking Trail, and Frank Tuningview Oregon's Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, which is one leg of the Trail.BLM officials have quietly endorsed it,and have begun laying out routes and in-cluding plans for the Desert Trail in pre-paration for the day when it will be a re-cognized trail.

In Oregon, the: Forest Service has pro-posed a route for the Desert Trail fromthe Snake River, on the Idaho border, tothe lower edge of the Malheur NationalForest near Drewsey, Oregon. BLM picksup the trail there and takes it down Mal-heur River to Milheur Cave, across Dia-mond Craters and hence to the edge ofthe Malheur National Wildlife Refuge.BLM picks up the trail again at thesouthern boundary of the Refuge, at thebase of Steens Mountain. BLM has alsoofficially recognized the Desert Trail bynaming it on their maps of the SteensMountain Recreation Area. From SteensMountain, the trail drops to the AlvordDesert and then to the Nevada borderat Denio.In Nevada, BLM has provided mapswith suggested routes through public landin that state. The proposed Nevada routecuts down from Denio and across BlackRock Desert, bearing east roughly parallelto U.S. High wa" SO to Halleck, w here itturns southward along the eastern edge

of the Ruby Mountains. Below Ruby Lake,BLM has suggested a swing to the east,

and thence a fair direct southward routeto pass east of Las Vegas.The Desert Trail developers have pro-posed a route from Ruby Lake in a south-westerly direction that would enter Cali-fornia near Death Valley National Monu-ment.California desert lovers have picked upthe ball and are working on a routethrough Southern California's Mojave andColorado Deserts and thence to followalong the Colorado River and its great re-creational complex.One of the most encouraging featuresof the Desert Trail is that is it proposedto cross areas of western United Statesthat are almost entirely public domain,thus offering the highest potential accep-tance without interfering with privatelands or private interests. Finding goodroutes through desert lands has provedrelatively easy compared to the difficul-ties encountered by other trails.A further exciting advantage over thePacific Crest Trail and the AppalachianTrail is that many areas will be open touse during almost all seasons of the year,and in fact, some parts of it will be attheir best when the mountain trails areclosed by snow.Alternate routes and feeder trails openup tremendous possibilities for hiking

through many areas of the desert Wesat all seasons of the year. For example,when Steens Mountain in Oregon isshrouded in snow, it is possible to hikearound its north shoulder and down alongthe Alvord Desert, or to take a routethrough Catlow Valley west of Steens.The Desert Trail offers something foreveryone. Along the routes already pro-posed are places of historical interest, oldmining camps, fantastic rockhounding,and a fascinating range of scenic, biologi-cal and geographical features.When the Desert Trail is completed,you will be able to hike, ride horseback,and even use trail bikes on some parts ofit, in areas that range from the true des-erts of California and Nevada, to the highdeserts of Oregon, with alpine regions inbetween.Neither the Department of the Interior

nor the Department of Agriculture, (For-est Service) have officially endorsed theproject. As "Interior" saysthere is agreat deal of difference between a trail onpaper and a trail on the ground. Since theDesert Trail does not fit present legisla-tion calling for trails accessible to urbanareas, (in fact it avoids them), and sincelittle public demand presently exists forsuch a trail, they do not see that much canbe done at this time.You can, of course, hike almost any par

of the proposed Desert Trail right nowsimply because it is on public land. Butyou do so strictly on your own, because nomoney has been appropriated, no water orcampgrounds provided, and no trail mark-ers of any kind have been placed. Whileparts of the trail have been officially re-cognized on maps, this is largely a form ofadvance planning by the Forest Serviceand BLM.Almost everything done so far in pro-moting the Desert Trail has been the dir-ect result of action by Russell Pengelly, aBiology teacher at Burns, Oregon, whofirst conceived the idea for the trail eightyears ago, and who has been tireless inpromoting it ever since.The cooperation and help Pengelly hasreceived from local and regional men inthe Forest Service and BLM has been gra-tifying, but the voices of many people needto be heard before the Desert Tra il can be-come a reality. Much work remains ahead,to inform and seek the help of legislators,state officials and government agencieswho recognize the importance of this ex-citing recreational concept.


11/44

10 DAY MONE Y BACK - 5 YEAR

You must be completely satisfied or re-turn the undamaged instrument within10 days after you receive it, and yourpurchase price will be refunded. Inaddition our detector includes withit a 5 year parts and laborguarantee.

OUTSTANDING FEATURES FOUND IN OURINSTRUMENTS AND OTHERS SELLING FOR UP TO $200.00 FIVE SILICON PLANAR TRANSISTORS for loud, powerful signals PRINTED CIRCUIT CONSTRUCTION assures trouble-free operation COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED, not a kit, and no radio is needed to use THUMBWHEEi.. CONTROLS allow one-handed operation 100 MICRO-AMP FULL-VIEW METER indicates when signal cannot be heard 2V4-INCH DYNAMIC SPEAKER gives clear signal without earphone TELESCOPING TUBES adjust to everyone's height INCLUDED ARE 9-volt battery, sensitive earphone, and 5-inch search head WEIGHT UNDR 2 POUNDS makes long use easy without tiringFREE 2 TREASURE MAG SUBSCRIPTIONSTrue Treasure and Treasure World provide leads andresearch information for the treasure hunter, hobbyist,weekend prospector, and adventure seeker.OPERATING PRINCIPLESOperates by comparing the frequencies of twocolpitts oscil lators and amplifying the audiofrequency which is the sun of the difference.The fixed oscil lator is controlled by thethumbwheel tuner. The variable oscil latorchanges its inductance when the SearchHead is brought into close proximityof any metal. This difference whenamplified is heeird in the earphoneor speaker, as an audio signal tone.DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED

PostPaidBEACHCOMBER 5

without meter95Post Pd9!BEACHMASTER 5with meter

AVAILABLEWITH 3SEARCH HEADS

TREASURE HUNTER'S BAGFREE $19.95 VALUE CASECarries your metal detector, search heads,battery, earphone, maps, books and mag-azines. An ebony black Unilite case,braced with handsome aluminum closures.Smooth "side action" nickel plated locksand two keys, secures your equipment ina fitted charcoal grey foam and protectsit from the roughest handling. The interiorl id contains a wide folio pocket. Includedis a big 160-page book, BURIED TREA-SURE GUIDE, describing hundreds of fa-mous caches in almost every state withsuggestions on how to get started.(see terms below)

3 SEARCH HEAD $11.95DEPTH MIN. 0" MAX. 9" POSTP AIDExceptionally sensitive to small nuggets,coins and rings, even when buried on edge.Useful for searching walls of old homesteadsand crevices where larger heads cannot enter.

5" SEARCH HEAD W .TH DETEC?DEPTH RANGE MIN. 1" MAX. 24"Will detect large coins, watches, lighters and pens.Best general purpose head for beach combing,searching old farm fields and circus lots.10 SEARCH HEAD $17.95DEPTH RANGE MIN. 4" MAX. 60" POST PAIDBest sensitivity on large objects, buried deep; like chests,tools, jars of coins, bars or veins of gold, silver and other preciousmetals. Can also be used to search large areas quickly.

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I AM ORDERING A METAL DETECTOR WITH 3 AND 10-INCHSEARCH HEADS TO GET MY FREE TREASURE HUNTER'SCOMPLETE BAG. IF I AM NOT SATISFIED AFTER 10 DAYS I WILLRETURN THE INSTRUMENT AND MY MONEY WILL BE REFUNDED.THE ATTACHE CASE AND BOOK WILL BE MINE TO KEEP.G Send 3" SEARCH HEAD 11.95Z] Send 10" SEARCH HEAD 17.95 Send BEACHMASTER DETECTOR 49.95Includes meter, sensitive earphone and 9V battery Send BEACHCOMBER DETECTOR 39.95

Includes earphone, battery, without meter With my order send me free 6-month subscription s

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12/44

W ESTERN MIMING history has record-ed many strange tales of unusualand remarkable mines Claims worth mil-lions have been traded for nothing morethan a worn out pick mule, or a jug ofrot-gut whiskey. The fantastic hoax ofUtah's salted diamond mine nearly causeda war with England. "Baby D oe " Taborspent a lifetime of poverty zealouslyguarding Colorado's worked out andworthless Matchless Mine.The deser ts of Ar izona and New Mexi-co are said to conceal untold numbers offabulously r ich, but unfortunately lost,Spanish mines. But or all the strange stor-ies told, from tales :>f Oph ir, and Go lcon -da, and El Dorado, none is stranger thanthe true story of John Koyle's DreamM i n e !

fohn H. Koyle v.as a dreamer who sawvisions, a seer who could prophesy eventsstill far in the future. Even at an early agehe often astounded friends in the sleepylittle Mormon towns of Utah Valley withthe accuracy of his. predictions. His pro-phecies regarding the outcome of elec-tions, of coming disasters, and of otherfuture events were nearly always correct.Businessmen and neighbors sought his ad-vice, and farmers asked his counsel beforeplanting their crops.

So, when during the fall of 1894, Koyleannounced that he had dreamed of a placewhere a great bodv of precious minerallay hidden in the Wasatch Mountainsabove the little settlement of Salem, noone was too surprised, for hadn' t his earl-ier dreams, or visions, come true? Be-sides, it had been only a few years sinceJesse Knight , the M ormon W izard, discov-ered his famous Humbug Mine throughinstructions he claimed to have receiveddur ing a dream or vis ion. Knight ' s Hum-bug M ine p roduc eo :. fortu ne in silver, sowhy couldn' t John Koyle's Dream Minedo the same?

Koyle claimed that during his dream hewas visited by a personage who took himdeep into the bowels of the earth, as if

77

~-""V r-OUTAH'SDREAM

MINE -by

George A .Thompson

: ' ^ ^ k .


13/44

FOR 50 YEARS, MINERS WORKEDWITHO UT PAY AND FINANCIERSINVESTED MANY THOUSANDSOF DOLLARS IN A UTAH MINEBASED ONLY ON THE DREAMOF ONE MAN.ALTHOUGH JOH N KOYLEMADE MANY SUCCESSFULPROPHECIES, HIS VISION OF THERICH MINE DID NOT PAY OFF.

Aimers such as those picturedin the old photo (left) workedwithout pay, so strong ivas theirbelief in Koyle's prediction.The start of the "dream mine"in 1894 (below) in Utah'sWasatch Mountains.

through an opening in the mountain front,and down through the earth's formationsto where a king's fortune in rich ore washidden. Many were anxious to be taken tothe place Koyle had seen in his dream.W ith a group of fr iends he climbed intothe foothills of the Wasatch Range to aplace where he staked his claim. It wasnamed the Relief Claim, but few everknew it by that name, for it was alwaysbetter known throughout Utah Valley asthe Dream Mine.

Although Koylc had no knowledge ofmining, he had little trouble f inding mento work at his mine, so strongly did theybelieve in his dream. A shaft was dug intothe mountain for i() feet to where a dif-ferent rock formation was encountered,just as predicted by Koyle. There the dir-ection of the shaft was changed, and exact-ly 40 feet further the formation changedagain, also just as forseen by Koyle! Fromthat time on work progressed accordingto instructions the prophet received in hisdreams. And, unbelievable as it maysound, especially to anyone familiar withmining methods , min ing by dream ins truc-tions continued for more than M) years!

During the more than a half century theDream Mine was worked, its shaft wassunk more than a thousand feet into themountain, mostly by farmers or men un-skilled at mining. Yet during that entiretime, not a pound of ore was found!Whenever the miners faith faltered, Koylewould reassure them, saying the ore wouldsoon be found, just as he had seen it in hisdream. Th e miners kept work ing withoutpay, for other predictions made by Koylekept com ing true. Each year saw the shaftdug a little deeper and for every manwhose faith failed, there was another totake his place.

The faithful invested their savings inmining tools and equipment, allowing theshaft to be sunk still further into barrenrock. Th en , in 191 i, Koy le startled evenhis most faithful followers, w hen he an-

1 3


14/44

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nounced that the L,385-foot-deep shaftwould have to be abandoned after nearly20 years of work, and a tunnel drivenf rom lower on the mountains ide!

Doubt was growing among workers a tthe Dream Mine, but at about that timeit was incorporated as the Koyle MiningCompany, and stock was sold to obtainfunds to hire experienced m iners. By1929 the new tunnel had been driven over3,000 feet into the rocky flanks of theWasatch, and both miners and publicofficials were becoming openly critical ofthe entire operation, when one of Koyle'smost unusu al prophecies came true. Thisrenewed their faith once more.

During the late 1920s the country wasexperiencing good times, and "prosperitywas just around the corner," so whenKoyle predicted that the nation was onthe verge of a great depression, his pro-phecy was greeted with r idicule. But after"Black Friday" when the stock marketcrashed and millions were left pennilessand unemployed, few laughed at him.

And when Pres ident Hoover was de-feated "by a lame man riding a donkey, 'just as he had prophesied far in advance,the superstitious settlers dared not ques-tion his prophesies again. If Koyle saidthat a great fortune would be found atthe Dream Mine, then it would be found,and that was all there was to that!

Work continued at the mine in spite ofthe depression, with a new 200-foot shaftbeing sunk, as well as several side driftsand cross cuts. In 1931, a stockholdersmeeting was held at the mine amid an airof almost religious mysticism. Bugle callssounded from high on the mountain,while 37 shots were f ired out over the val-ley, one for each year the mine had oper-ated. Koyle made a long speech to morethan 1,000 stockholders and curious spec-tators, telling of the progress being madeat the mine, and boasting that after 37years the company owed no debt. Henever mentioned that after 37 years thecompany also had no ore!

Work at the mine continued. A roadwas graded up the mountains ide to wherea home had been built for Koyle. A fewstockholders begrudged the cost of thehouse. When Koyle spent $43,000 of theirmoney to build a reduction mill for themine's non-existent ore, they notif iedUtah State authorities who began an in-vestigation.

After an extensive inspection of themine by state mining engineers, a report

was submitted stating that there was nevidence ol valuable minerals at thDream Mine, and that ore bearing formations suggesting that mineralization mighexist were totally lacking.

At nearly the same time MormoChurch authorities also started an investigation. During the years while Koyloperated the Dream Mine, he had held thtitle or Bishop in the church, and becausof his position it was claimed that he waable to attract widespread investment fromchurch members. Results ol the inspection by church-hired mining engineersubstantiated findings made by state investigators. There was no ore at thDream Mine, and nothing to indicate thathere ever would be.

In spite of both state and church reports, man;' determined stockholders continued to support Koyle, and miners whstill believed in his predictions kept working. And as if to vindicate their faithKoyle's phophecies continued to comtrue with uncanny accuracy. He correctlforesaw the beginning of Wor ld War Iin advance, and missed its 1945 armisticdate by only six days! But although hiprophecies continued to come true, thenever soothed his troubles with state anchurch officials and, finally, in 1948 hwas excomm unicated from church membership.

With his loss of title and prestige mthe church, Koyle's fortunes and those othe Dream Mine failed rapidly. By thehe was an old man, and in 1949 he dieat the age of Hi. Work at the mine faltered, and soon stopped altogether. There no parallel in history where any othemine operated for so long; under sucstrange circumstances and at such grealabor, with so little return. The DreamMine was operated for more than 5years, with a record of no debts, no profits , no dividends, and no ore!

But a l though Koyle ' s glowing predictions for the Dream Mine never came trueit can't be denied that most of his otheprophecies did. He correctly foresaw thelection of the Republican Part}' to national office in 195 2, and the victory of thDemocrats in I960. He predicted the present day riots and civil strife as well as thcurrent dollar devaluation. He said the dawould come when it would take a busheof gold to buy a bushel of wheat! Whkno ws? M aybe there is gold in the DreamMine. Maybe, if the shaft was dug just little deeper . . .


15/44

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Photo by Terry AldermanA N avajo m aiden weaving at her loom

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16/44

A s SNAKES go , Chionactis occiphalis isa pretty little thing, being only some1 5 inches long and done tastily in bodytones of white or yellow with cross bandmarkings of black or brown. Crowninghis head is a dark crescent whose pointsreach we ll forw a :d on th e sides of h isface, and his eyes are large with roundpupils. Pretty docs as pretty is, too, forChio is a fine destroyer of insects of allkinds, a fellow who works the sandiestof windb lown are is a terrain so formid -able in its sunbaked desolation that it isclosed to most desert dwellers.

So well adapted is this little snake todry sandy conditions that with the com-ing of irr igation and agriculture he movesout promptly. He wants his desert a dryand barren place, but forever changingwith the moo ds :>i the w ind , a land ofblowing, shif ting sand and stunted mes-quite. I 'or Chio is a shovel-nosed snake,a digger by trad:. ' , whose ancestors longago ventured into the forbidding king-dom of aeolian sand, and successfullymade it their home.

[n the desert the temperature under-ground remains fairly constant, and henceit is that there an animal has a betterchance of escaping both lethal heat andcold. Also, since the humidity is higherben eath the surf ice, there is better pro -tection against desiccation and, of course,underground is apt to be a safer placewhen enemies are around, too. Chio capi-talizes on all these advantages by spend-ing hours at a time buried in the sandwhen conditions upstairs are undesirable.

Subterranean iving in loose sand istricky, not at all like just digging a holein f irm ground where the sides stay upleaving an air-fi led chamber. The shift-ing sand only moves aside, tr ickling backto fill in once more. Thus the bur r owingsnake must have special digging equip-ment to work his way in, and once he'sthere, with sand all about him, he mustbe able to keep on breathing. As the sur-face temperature grows hotter during theday, he must be able to move downthrough the shifting overburden withoutexcessive effort, which requires a specialtechnique in locomotion. Finally, andmost important, since his food is to behad on the surface, the snake has to knowsomehow when it is time to come out.

All this seems i. lot to ask one littlesnake to be able to handle, but Chio is justthe fellow who :an do it.

Zoologis t Klauber , intr igued with the

1skill and dispatch with which Chio goesinto his digging act using a few easy-flow-ing movements to simply disappear intothe sand, had to f ind out how it is done.The upshot of a lot of hard work showedthat here is a snake who uses his headquite literally, for it is the site of a marvel-ously designed shovel: his snout. Wedge-shape, f lattened from top to bottom likea shovel, it is also sharp along the edgesand greatly strengthened with bony rein-forcements.

He digs with his head, shoving hissnout in with sidewise loops of his body.Sand can' t get into his mouth, thanks to

the countersunk design of his lower jaw.Adjustable valves protect his nostrils andby extending forward also shield thetongue notch in his lower jaw. This notchis an opening through which his tonguecan be protruded while his mouth is stillclosed and must be kept from beingclogged up when the snake is below surface if it is to function when he's aboveground. (A snake's tongue is r ibbon-likelong and very f lexible. When quickly runou t of this notch into the air it aids greatlyin the sense of smell by bringing backchemical news to an especially sensitivespot in the mouth.)


17/44

I S . > tPurchase for the digging thrusts is also

provided for in Olio's design as thescales along the sides of his belly are bentsharply at an angle, making a r idged anti-slip tred. On the other hand, the scalesalong his back are ivory smooth and high-ly polished, greatly adding to the easewith which this fellow slips through thesand.

Zoologis ts Norns and Kavanau, watch-ing the faint movement in the sand as ashovel-nosed toured along under it and,observing that the SIUKC stayed buried forhours, they set up a series of tests thatproduced new information on what goes

on while Chio is below surface. Theyfound that Chio, thanks to his extrastreamlining ( there is little or no constr ic-tion between his head and body) and hisflowing style of locomotion, actually dis-turbs the overhanging sand very little inburrowing. This is the key to his success;in not packing the sand as he goes, hekeeps it light so that the pressure againsthis body is only minimal. This not onlymakes it easier for him to move about, italso helps solve his breathing problem,aided further by his style of digging.

Bending his head downward andthrusting it along, the snake gouges out a

groove ahead of him as he goes, and thisgroove serves as an air space. It is keptfree of sand by an overhanging scale onhis snout. Once well below surface andquiet, the snake shifts from his normalway of abdominal breathing to a flutter-ing method in his throat, and uses the airin the groove space. He actually requiresless oxygen now, for his body temposlows down.The throat-f luttering style ol breathingkeeps the sand from compacting about hisbody. In abdominal breathing, the sandwould tend to rise from underneath tofill in the empty places made by bodybreathing movements. Noting all this,Norris and Kavanau concluded that boththe sinuous locomotion under sand, andthe lack of tendency to compact sand, arcof adaptive significance, and contributegreatly to the survival of Chio undertough desert conditions.The big question remained. How doeshe know when to come out? For, in thefield there is a synchronous emergence ofthese snakes. Everybody seems to cometopside at the same t ime. Working in laband with field tests these scientists foundthat buried shovel-nosed snakes are notjust camping around waiting for the des-ert to cool down. They actually becomespontaneously active while still below thesurface some 21 hours or a little less afterthe start of the last active period. Then,when the sand temperature above them isright, they come out.

When each snake emerges, finally, hisbiological clock is reset for 24 hours or alittle less againhow, nobody knowsbut the result is that it allows the animalto be active at the most favorable time asfar as temperature conditions are concern-ed in the area in which he lives. It worksseasonally, since Chio is abroad in the af-ternoons of spring and fall everyday, butin mid-summer, perhaps not until late atnight when the ground temperature f in-ally cools.

Oddly enough, light does not seem tobother these nocturnal snakes, and in factthey can see well in bright light. But theyare very adverse to artificial light. Biolo-gist Warren, working near Palm Springsat night, reported that they would nevercrawl through a beam of light on theground. Zoologist Klauber 's f ield stud)showed that Chio likes to hunt in theeven ing best, between 7 and 10 P.M ., andis most active when the temperature

'Continued on Page 36


18/44

T HE WHITE man is once again invad-ing the land of the Apaches whoseancestors a century ago were among themost feared and warlike of all the south-western Indian tribes. But this time, in-stead of f ighting to protect their homesfrom the invaders, the Apaches are wel-coming the white man with open arms andgreeting him with, "Hon Dah , " whichmeans , "be my gues t . "

And for their 'guests" the Apach es of-fer more than one and a half m illion acresof uncrowded scenic timber and range-land containing 500 miles of the West'sbest trout stream;- and 26 recreation lakes.

Several main highways enter the Reser-

vation, the two most scenic being U.S. 60from Globe which passes through thespectacular Salt River Canyon, and Ari-zona State 73 from Show Low throughPost Office Canyon to Whiteriver.

Something of interest for everyone ex-ists on the Fort Apache Reservation. TheKinishba Ruins are large, well-preservedcomplexes buil t by the "Ancient Ones"who lived here long before the Apaches.While shards of pottery, arrowheads andother Indian artifacts cannot be takenfrom this registered historical landmark,the Apaches permit picking up these itemsat many other unmarked sites scatteredover the Reservation. Besides doing it

byWilliam D.Fitzwater

The childrenof Apachelandare beautiful,friendly andcurious. TheReservation hashundreds ofuncrowdedcamping areas(opposite page)by cool, trout-filled streams.Photos by theauthor.

yourself, you can examine a professional"dig" being worked by archaeologists.These rums at Grasshopper make an in-teresting and educational sidetrip for anysummer vacation.

N o t interested in Indian rums/ Visitthe ghost town of Maverick. This lustylumber ing camp stopped operation only afew years back. It has been sealed up withthe expectation that in another decadetimber will have grown enough in the areato make logging profitable again.

While Maverick cm be readied eitherfrom the north or south, I suggest thatyou come in from Tort Apache on thesouth. The scenery is prettier and the roadfrom the north is hub deep in dust by th emiddle of summer. Incidentally, the roadto Maverick is blocked by a sign, butwhen I asked an Indian about it, he merelyshrug ged and said, Go round sign, likeeverybody else does!", as though th e stupidity of a paleface who believed in Insown signs was beyond comprehension.This is a trip to take only if you want tosee wild country along with deer, turkeyand possibly a bear.

A better way to get into M averick, how-ever, is by the White Mountain ScenicRailroad. One of the last narrow gaugesteam locomotive runs in the country, itleaves McNary at 9:30 A.M., returning at3:00 P.M., all for the price of $5.95.While not as commercialized as the Dur-ango -Silverton run in Colo rado , it is aninteresting r ide that youngsters and old-sters alike will enjoy as a living experiencefrom the past.

Hunting offers another type of recreation as Fort Apache has some of the bestbig game hunting left in the country. Thisarea supports one of the heaviest bear con-centrations in the world. Though the) 'stay mostly in the back country, unlike the


19/44

Hawley Lake (left) is one of26 scenic lakes in Arizona'scool White MountainRecreation Area. An Apacheranger (below) transportstrout by horse and mule froma hatchery for planting inone of the manyback-country streams.

- - . : - ~ - - : . . r -

ge panhandlers of Yellowstone, theyoccasionally trouble campers. Recently, afamily from Phoenix was awakened bythe shaking of their camper. Next morning they found that they had contributedthree dozen eggs, two watermelons, sevenpounds of bacon, half dozen cans of stewand other staples, two tins of fruit cake, apaper sack of apples and a pound tin ofPrince Albert tobacco. When a fat, Yogitype bear was snared in the vicinity by thegovernment t rapper a day later for exil inghe was wearing a puzzled look and stilspitting tobacco juice. Permits can be obtained to hun t elk, javelina, antelope, waterfowl, dove, quail, coyotes and mountain lion besides bear.


20/44

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21/44

Once a military stronghold,Fort Apache's adobe walls

(below) are gradua llycrumbling from the weather.

One of the sacred Apachedances (right) can be seen

by the ivhite manduring the annual W bite

Mountain Apache Tribal Fair,September 2 through 4-

For the photographer there are the In-dian women and black-eyed children thatwander among the rule wickiups scatteredamon g more modern dw ell ings . O n ; ofthe largest of its kind in the West, the an-nual White Mountain Apache Tr ibal Fairthis year will be held September 2 through4. It features arts, crafts, rodeos, dancesand you might be lucky enough to witnessthe colorful fertility rites that mark anIndian maid ' s coming of age.

And then there is old Fort Apache.This famous cavalry post saw troops leavehere on the hunt for Geronimo, Nachezand other renegade leaders. I t is now aschool for Indian children. Many of theor iginal bui ldings still stand, but have

been converted into private dwellings likeGeneral Crook' s old headquar ters . Thebarns are falling down and the old ceme-tery on the hill overlooking the postdreams of a glory long past.

The biggest drawing card on the Reser-vation is the camping and fishing. Twen-ty-six high altitude lakes dot the Reserva-tion. There are several improved camp-grounds with water , garbage pickup, rest-rooms and tables, but you are permitted tocamp on an almost unlimited variety ofsites, over 700 in number. Where to campand fish depends upon personal prefer-ences.

Those who like solitude where thetrout are bigger and dumber will f indcountless possibilities, though they willprobably need four-wheel-drive vehicles.Most of the camping crowd chooses sitesby the larger lakes or streams by goodroads. Lakes like Hawley, Horseshoe,Cienga, Cyclone, Big and Little Bear arethe most popular . Boat docks and facili-ties are available on many of the lakesbut the visitor is also permitted to bringhis own boat. However, no motors are al-lowed on the lakes, so bring oars and

some muscle.Besides having a valid Arizona f ishing

license, you need a tribal permit,$15for the season or 75ii for the first day and50c for each additional day. A good sup-ply of finny adversaries is assured foryour money by the U.S. Bureau of SportFisheries and Wildlife. This agency main-tains two fish hatcheries producing 200,-000 pounds of trout annually for restock-ing Reservation waters.

The gover nm ent fish hatcheries alsomake an interesting show in themselves.Both are on well-maintained roadsAl-chesay is just east of the town o( W h i t eRiver and Williams is south of McNary.They are open to visitors and one can seethe different stages of growth from eggto pan-size. For a nickel you can buy ahandful of fish feed at a vending machineand watch the big ones try to climb ou tof the water . Unfortunately, you can onlydrool in anticipation as under no circum-stances will they let you wet a line here.

So why not accept the Apache invitationto "Hon Dah," and invade their Reserva-tion which they call, "A Vacation Land toRemember ."


22/44

R U N N I N G T H E C O


23/44

R A D O R A P I D SbyJackPepperPhotos by author

W HEN I first saw Cataract Canyon of theColorado River it was from th e air as I flew in asmall plane over Canyonlands National Park insouthern Utah. From several thousand feet above itlooked like a thi n brown ribbon criss-crossed by tinystreaks of wh ite thread.My m ission at the tim e was to do anarticle on Utah's Canyonlands area. The giant,spectacular red sandstone formations I had justphotographed made the Colorado River appearinsignificant and small by com parison.Dick S mith, who conducts fl ights over southernUtah's many scenic areas from his well-equippedoperational base at the southern entrance toCanyonlands National Park, was my pilot and informant.Dick combines his prowess as a flyer w ith anencyclopedic knowledge of Utah amassed during hismany years of exploring the wilderness areas.When I asked him what caused the "tin y whitestrea ks" across the water, he replied, "Those whitestreaks, as you call them , are some of the m ostrugged ra pids on the en tire Colorado. I suggest yousee them by boat to see how 'tiny' they are."This summ er I once again saw Cataract Canyonbut it was from a rubber boat and the " tin y w hitethre ads " turned out to be a thun dering cascadeof angry water which seemed to get madderand madder as its path was obstructed by giantboulders which had fallen into the river from the rockformations on each side of the canyon.

As we entered the firs t rapid I wasn't frightened,I was downright scared."What is an old desert rat l ike me ," I thought,"do ing in a rubber boat in the m iddle of the cascadingColorado River when I could be in a safe four-wheel-drive vehicle going over mountain trails or beingstuck in the sand. At least, I could get out and w alk ."


24/44

Every morning at dawn the chow hounds sipped coffee and watchedBosco and Russ prepon; breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes and pancakes

After breakfast everyone helps load the boats (above) which were thencovered with tarpaulin and securely lashed down with ropes inpreparat ion for the day's adventure. Deft ly using his 20-horse-powerMercury outboard, Bosr.o (below) maneuvers his boat through oneof the lesser rapids. Life jackets are worn at all times.

.

But wi tii n a few minutes, as our boatman,Russeli Sullivan, expertly piloted the rubber craft ofHatch River Exoeditions past the boulders andheaded it into the giant waves the spray of whichcooled my sweating mind and bodymy initial fearchanged to exhilaration. By thetime we hadentered the third rapid, this desert rat had turnedinto a river rat.From the start of Cataract Canyon, justbelow the confluence of the Green and ColoradoRivers, the rushing water falls 405 feet in 50 milesan average rate of eight feet per m ile un til itreaches the quiet waters of Lake Powell. Within thes50 miles there are 32 rapids, all of which areseparated by fairly calm water.Before the completion of Glen Canyon Damand the resultant forma tion of Lake Powell, whosewaters have inundated the upper part of the ColoraRiver, there were more hazardous rapids but todaythey are under the peaceful waters of the lake.Lake Powell is named after Major John WesleyPowell, a United States Army engineer and the firstman to scientifically explore the Colorado River andCataract Canyon. He started his historic riverjourney not knowing what lay aheadwith ninemen and four wooden boats from Green River,Wyoming on May 24, 1869.Three months later, after suffering extremeprivation and near starvation, but still accomplishitheir mission of chartering the hitherto unknownColorado and going through 62 rap ids, the groupemerged from the river at the confluence ofthe Colorado and Rio Virgin Rivers in Nevada (nowunder the waters of Lake Mead).IronicaJy, the only lives lost were those of twomen who, not knowing safety was only a day aheadabandoned the expedition and climb ed out of theriver canyononly to be murdered by Indianswho mistakenly took them for marauders.One hundred and three years after Powell'sepic journey the Colorado has been explored andtamed by man. Two major damsGlen Canyon anHooverhave been built and the only major rapidare those of Cataract Canyon and the ones from

Marble Canyon, below Lake Pow ell, throug h GrandCanyon to Lake Mead.And, unlike the Powell expedition,running the rapids of the Colorado Riverandother "w ild rivers of the We st" is really safer thadrivin g an automo bile on the freeway. There areno oncoming cars going 70 miles per hour!My trip through Cataract Canyon startedat Green River, Utah where Enid C. Howard, DeserMagazine's Utah Associate Editor, and I joined agroup of geologists headed by Don L. Baars,Professor of Geology, Ft. Lewis College,Durango, Colorado.There were 16 of us, includingthe head


25/44

ry "Bo sco " Bosler, of Vernal, Utah,he second bo atsman , Russell Sullivan, of Los

Pioneer river runners with morelicensed to run most of the " w ild rive rs" in theates. Since rra ny of th e rivers go throughparks, both Federal and state licenses are

Also, today the running of rivers haso pop ular, a quota has been placedEnid and I were fortuna te that Ted Ha tchus to go wi;h th is g roup. We not only had aride, but had a three-day geological field trip .Head geologist Don L. Baars, or " D o c" as heed, and C. M. M olenaar, are co-au thorsogy of Canyonlands and Cataract C anyon.of the geology of the area is both

and is one of the few men whomore than once, traveled the entire length ofFor the C ataract Canyon trips , the H atchuse a type of boat origina lly designed formy as pontoons for bridges in Korea and

ons so, in case of pun cture, o nly at of air is lost. Patching re quires only aboats aire inflated (and de flated) bytors, one of which is carried on each boat.

Although each boat has giant-size oars in

The trip from Green River, Utah not tonorthern end of Lake Powell, isimately 170 m iles and usually takes four days.For 117 of those miles the Green River flowsverdant valleys and then throu gh

until, at the confluence of the Green andThe lower section of the Green River is in the

en covering when I first saw from the air th etw oThis was my second excursion down this placidion of the Green Fliver. A week prior to th is tr ip I

An average of 700 power boats from all

A second after author took this photograph the wave in the foregroundwhich looks smallcompletely engulfed the boat as Russ swung itaround the boulder behind the wave. The wave was a "real douser1'(below) so the "river rats" stopped at the bottom of the falls andbailed the boat out, dried their gear and prepared for the next rapids.


26/44

.>*'." - .

One of the famous Icindrnarks on the Green River is Dellenbaugh's Buttewhich Major Powel l named af ter a 1 7-year-old art ist in his crew in 1 8 7 1 .Leaving Green River, the power boats cruisedownstream to the confluence of the Green andColorado Rivers and then up the C olorado to Moab.It is below ne confluence the rapids of CataractCanyon begin. Cnly licensed river runners in rubberboats are allowed through Cataract. Power boatswould be broken to pieces in the first rapid.As Bosco and Russ loaded our gear, B aars toldme the town of Green River was founded in 1 878 , butas early as the 1700s the Spanish had crossed theriver here en route from Santa Fe, NewMexico to Ca lifo'r ia.We left Green River at 9 A.M . and f or th enext two days drifted down the peaceful river. Most ofthe first day, the river winds through fla t grass lands,but the farther south it flows the desert lands giveway to hills and finally to perpendicular cliffsrising hundreds of feet above the water.

It is these cliffs, tr ibuta ry canyons and changingstrata that first fascinated Major Powell and todayare a geologist's delight since a tri p downriver is a"journey into geological t im e."During the firs t two days we stopped toexamine the geo ogical featu res of canyons such asLabyrinth and St llwater, old uranium mines and theruins of prehistoric Indians. Many of the pueblostructures are located high above the water and todayare inaccessible. It is a mystery how the ab origineswere able to scale the cliffs.The first night we camped on a sandy bank

approximately 50 miles from our departure point.26

Formations such as this make the tr ip a geologist 's delight since it isa " journey back through geological t ime. "

As we found soft spots to unro ll our s leeping bags andthen swam in the cool water, Russ and Bosco builta fire and prepared supper.I had expected spa rtan fare. When Bosco shouted"c ho w tim e" I found we had delicious soup, steak, hashbrown potatoes, corn and, for dessert, chocolate

pudding. The following meals were just as sumptuous.At home I have toast and coffee for breakfast.Du ringth e r ive rtr ip I had two helpings of fruit, eggs,pancakes, bacon and coffee.We arrived at the co nfluence of the Greenand Colorado Rivers on the afternoon of the second day.The walls here rise 1,200 feet above the river andthe actual summit is at an elevation of 5,000 feet.Powell (who had only one arm) and h is party climb edout of the river here in 187 1 into what they called"Roc k Fores t." Today it is called the Maze andis part of Canyonlands National Park.Two miles below the confluence I heard whatsounded like a fast moving, heavily loadedfreight t ra in. It was the noise of the first rapidof Cataract Canyon. We made camp just above it ona site where Major F'owell had stopped morethan 100 years before.After helping to unload the boats, we"firs t-tim ers " hiked! downstream about a half milefora look at our first rapid. The angry, churning watercascaded over giant boulders which seemed to form animpassable barrier across the river.I returned to camp and asked Baars if it was

Continued on Page 35


27/44

Septober: PhotobyDavid Muem hQuite possibly thenicest time tovacation inGanyonlands, U.S.A.VACATIONING in southeastern Utah is great anyt ime of the year. But the t ime that's becoming afavorite with many visitors is Septober, that delight-ful period from Labor Day to Halloween. The daysare pleasantly warm and clear, the nights cr ispand brilliant.Unlike many National Parks areas, Canyonlands isnever crowded. And it's even less so in Septemberand October. There are plenty of modern accom-mo d a t i o n s , r e s ta u r a n ts and camp ing fac i l i t i esth roughou t the reg ion.

You will find as much to do as to see in Canyon-lands, U.S.A. Goexplor ing in thehundreds of Indianruins. Goboating or rafting on themighty rivers. Gowater ski ing or f ishing atLake Powell, orcamp alongth e 1,800 mile shoreline. Bring your 4-wheel drivevehicle or trail bike andenjoy the spectacular backcountry. Or just enjoy thesights from your caralongmodern h ighways. Whatever you want to do,Septober is the perfect time to do it.There is acomplete and colorful Canyonlands Vaca-tion Kit awaiting you. Just drop us a note today andwe'l l send you one.Free.

Ganyonlands,US.A.88 North Main Street

Monticello, Utah 84534


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U NDULATING LIKE w a v e s on a sea ofal luvium, the Broken Hills occupya 170-mile segment of Nevada ' s highdesert country in the southeast corner ofChurchill County It is a sparsely settledregion used mainly .is cattle range inyears of favorable rainfall. Though bleak,barren and isolated, the Broken Hills haveattained fame as the producer of out-standing petr if ied wood.This fine cutti u; material is generallyreferred to as "< i . ibb's Wood"- a mis-nomer, probably used by early collectorsto keep the exact location unknown. Sev-eral deposits occu " ii: the Broken Hil ls buttwo locales -the Gr een Wood Ar ea andBoulder Hill ar. easy to reach and stillsupply excellent material for collectorswil l ing to do some digging.

T h e two depos ts lie a little over a mileapart and are located along Nevada State23 , approximated 1-1 miles south of U.S.50. (See map lor detailed mileages.)Fences line both side of the highway, butgates have been conveniently provided foraccess to the back country. CLOSE ALLG A T E S , AS T H E Y ARE FOR THEP R O T E C T I O N OF R A N G E C A T T L E .If left open and any cattle are injured onthe highway, you may find them lockedthe next time you want to collect petrifiedwood.

Since there are few landmarks in thisregion and speedometers often vary, itwould probably be easiest to first locateBoulder Hill, then the Gr een Wood tu r n-off. The Hill nearly touches the highwayan d has a large, rounded boulder perchedon its summit . (See photo . ) A short, dir troad leads through a gate to a good camp-ing area. A jeep trail ascends the hill tothe first of several diggings. It is only ashort, steep hike for those without 4WDor trail bikes.

Three- tenths o i. mile north of theHill, another dirt road (not easily seen)leaves the highway cl imbs a road cut, goesthrough .i gate, then follows a steep r idgeto several diggings. This is all consideredpart of the Boulder Hill collecting area.This road is not idvisable for trailers.

Opalixed, agatfcd and silicified woodare found in the Boulder Hill depositswhere one log may be replaced by all threematerials. The op.ilized wood seems to bethe most sought after. It is beautiful withchocolate browns in combinat ion withbright yellow and stark white; silver-greycenters streaked with jet black and encir-cled with warm brown and white . There

28

W O O D- - . * 1

.*

Headframe of San Carlos Mine (left)old camp on Quartz Mountain. Rboulder on top of Boulder Hill (blandmark for petrified ivood area. camping area is on right of photo antrail goes to diggings. Trail leading gings in the Green Wood locale where large log was found.

_

Faint road east ofQuartz Mountain

(right) leads toobsidianite field

in dark volcanic hills.Digging is necessary

(opposite page) touncover petrified

wood. '


29/44

N B R O K E N H I L L Sby Mary Frances StrongPhotos byJerry Strong

are just too many color combinations todescribe here, all of which are very at-tractive.

Generally, chips will be found aroundthe campsite, which will give you an ideaof what to look for if you are unfamiliarwith the wood from this area. Many largelogs have been located here and there isno doubt in my mind that many more areStill undiscovered.

Th e Green W ood deposit is a littleover a mile north of Boulder Hill. FromState 23, follow the dirt road east througha gate, then up a nar row, winding washfor nearly a mile. Cars and pickups caneasily negotiate the road unless there hasbeen a flash flood. It is not advisable fortrailers.

The short distance up the wash requiredus more than a half-hour. W e were stop-ping constantly to pick up small pieces oflovely black and white opalized wood.

The green wood is also opalized andsimply beautiful as you will see from thechips in the wash and around the dig-gings . Hopefully, they have not all beenpicked up by tumbling enthusiasts. Therewas evidence that a log had recently beenremoved when we were there last Novem-ber. A steel probe would be very useful inhelping to locate buried logs when thereis no surface evidence.

Middlegate S tat ion a bar and cafesouth of the junction of Highways 50 and2 3 , is the nearest source of gasoline. It isoperated by a very fr iendly coupletheVance Middaughs. Several complete trail-er hookups are also available for a nom-inal fee. Take a look at the large sectionfrom a petrified log in their yard, "Th eycome big in them thar hi l ls !"

Broken Hills is an interesting region toexplore. The skeletons of two old ghost29


30/44

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towns lie bleaching in the desert sun whilethe headframes of two once-productivemines guard the ores left behind. An ob-sidianite field lies up a lonely wash amongvolcanic hills and a myriad of jeep trailsoffer good exploring for back-country en-thusiasts.

We began our explorat ions via theBroken Hil ls -Quar tz Mountain Road,three miles south of Boulder Hil l on State23. T h i s is a good, graded dir t road thatleads easterly to the old towns for whichit was nam ed.

As we drove along we could see and

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feel the aridness of the country. It seemedimpossible that such land could provideforage for cattle. No doubt occasionalwinter storms bring life-giving moisture,as well as summer thundershowers . Whenthis happens, desert land can turn greenand become a wildflower garden in a veryshort time.

Our f irst stop was at a lonely hillsidegrave where a wrought iron fence pro-tected the site and a simple marker stated"Mat t Costello, 1866-1926." Matt foundhis pot-of-gold at Broken Hills afterspending his life prospecting with "luck"that provided merely bed and beans. Heeventually located a promising claim andsold out with plans to spend his moneyenjoying life. This wasnot to be. Perhapsthe excitement of f inally making it provedtoo much, as Mat t was found dead beforehe had a chance to even spend a penny.H e wasburied here in the country he loved by his fr iends. They felt he would liketo be near his big strike.

A mile and a half east of Matt's lastresting place, the road climbed a saddle inthe hills . Ahead, along a wide wash, werethe ruins of Broken Hills. On the left,tracks led a short distance north to themine which had given life and broughtdeath to the old town.

It was in 1913 that prospectors JamesStratford and Joseph Arthur discoveredthe vein of rich silver sulphides associatedwith lead and gold. As was to be expected,this news brought a rush of hopeful min-ers and a settlement soon developed.

There were the usual saloons and bawdy houses but Broken Hills was, more orless, a sedate town. There were manyhomes, several businesses, school, post of-

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31/44

/ iddlegateFALLON

12?/ B R 0 K E N

Enlarged

- H I L L S Obsidianite

fice and hotel. Everything needed forcomfortable living, except water. Ever)'drop had to be hauled in at considerableexpense. "Spare the water" must havebeen the housewives daily motto.

T he original discovery became the mainproducer and Stratford and Arthur wrest-ed some $70,000 from their mine beforeselling out to theBroken Hills Silver Cor-poration in 1920. Problems developedwithin thenewcompany and they only de-livered one small ore sh ipm ent . The campbegan to decline but a str ike at nearbyQuar tz Mountain in 925 br ought on atemporary boom. A tent city arose at thenew diggings when hundreds of peoplebegan to arrive. A townsite was laid outbut it was all over by 1927. M i n i n g canbe a fickle mistress !

O re was produced from the BrokenHills Distr ict during the next decade butwhen the great depression hit, even thedie-hards began to drif t away. By the mid-1900s, Broken Hills had joined the ranksof Nevada Ghos t Towns .

T im e has not dealt kindly with the oldtown, though a s ta lwar t headf rame gal-lantly stands guard on a hill above thesite. We counted seven buildings in var-

ious stages of collapse. Evidence of manymore were noted throughout the areawhere bottle and relic collectors had beenbus)- digging for loot.

Farther east, little remains of Quar tzMountain except several buildings at theSan Carlos Mine. This area, and the Brok-en Hills Mine are not abandoned, jus tidle. Please do not dis turb the buildingsor mine equipment .

A mile and a half east of Quar tz Moun-tain, a typical desert road ( two-tracks)heads northerly up a wash. Watch for afield of obsidianites a mile from the maingraded road.

Ther e is always a feeling of nostalgiawhen poking around old ghost towns andmining camps. One wonders how theseplucky pioneers managed without the"101 th ings" we consider absolutely es-sential today. The)'followed their dreamsand, when the bubbles burst, picked upthe pieces and looked toward new hori-zons. They were not confined to routinejobs nor burdened with too many posses-sions. "Free Spirits" carried these menand women of thegood old days and theyshared a belief in the pot-of-gold at theen d of the ra inbow. I envy them !

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32/44

Big Engine 35, carrying festive passengers,crosses Wildwood Bridge (above) in

Provo C anyon. Waiting to board the trainat Heber City, Utah, passengers affectionately

call the Wasatch Mountain Railway,the Heber Creeper.

UTAH'STHE SHRILL whistle of the HeberCreeper echoes across Heber Valley.The station master at the train depotscurries around, checking last minute de-tails. Excited children, scrambling aboardthe giant iron-horse cringe every time thewhistle blows. With a puff of steam spew-ing into the air and a slow chug and puff,Big Engine No. 35 of the Wasatch Moun-tain Railway pul Is its load of passenger

cars laden with festive tourists on anotherscenic jaunt down Provo Canyon.Railroading is still very much alive inthis section of Utah. The Wasatch Moun-tain Railway, more popularly known as theHeber Creeper, makes a three-and-a-halfhour fun trip down Provo Canyon regular-ly during summer months. The 37-mile,round trip journey winds across pastoralHeber Valley, around Deer Creek Reser-

voir and through Provo Canyon to majestic Bridal Veil Falls. In the spring thegreens are fresh and delicate, in the sum-mer the colors are rich and deep. Thefall -the crown of it allboasts mountains blazoned with scarlets, reds, yellowsand oranges. The panoramic view changesconstantly. Passengers enjoy an afternoonof variety with every turn of the wheeclacking along the tracks.


33/44

HEBER CITYPassengers on the Heb er Creeper canwatch fishermen catch their limit of troutas the train crosses Deer Creek severaltimes along the 37'-mile scenic route.

byCarol-AnnFuller

CREEPEROn the straightaway the engineer cangive her the full throttle for a maximum15 to 20 mph trip. However, uphill, chug-ging and puffing against a two-pointgrade in some places the run is more of awalk.Old Engine No. 35the massive steamlocomotive chugs up and down thetracks over the eastern portion, now aban-doned, of the Denver and Rio Grande

Western's Provo Canyon Branch built toserve the once bustling sheep center of theHeber Valley. The mining industry, atone time, also used these rails for trans-porting of their goods to and from thispicturesque valley.Standby power for the daily run is avail-able from an ex-Union Pacific Engine No.

618. This 1907 Baldwin, after being inuse for a number of years in the Salt Lake

railroad yards, had been on display in theUtah State Fairgrounds at Salt Lake Citysince the late 1950s. Through the com-bined efforts of the Wasatch Railway Mu-seum and the National Railway HistoricalSociety, it was moved to Heber for thispurpose.Making up the train there are closedcoaches, open air units and some withcanopies. The open air cars are the most


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Beautiful Bridal V eil Fa lls is at the end of the line. Passengers here can take atramwa y ride past the falls to the summit where there is a magn ificent canyon viewfun and equipped with benches runningthe full length of the flat-bed type car.This design allows the passengers to real-ly feel the fresh mountain air and smellthe sage. It is advisable to dress warmlyeven in mid-summer because there is acool breeze created as you move down thetracks.

There are no strangers aboard since afriendly, relaxed atmosphere prevails. Pas-sengers carry box lunches, goodies, sodapop. In the rear car there is also a conces-sion stand. Dressed in typical railroad g arbof striped bib-overalls, caps and red ker-chiefs, there are several young men andwomen roving about the train. Addingcolor and lending authenticity they serveas hostesses, guides and trouble shooters.Over a loud speaker these "railroaders"point out sights and tell tales of interest.Occasionally there is a guitar-strummingsinger aboard, stirring up interest in theold tunes such as "Zak, the Engineer,""I've Been Working on the Railroad"and "Home on the Range."Just before the Heber Creeper arrives at

the end of the line at Bridal Veil Fallsthat magnificent double cataract that tumbles down Provo Canyon, it stopsseemingly in the middle of no place. The carsjerk. Passengers immediately think therhas been trouble. A buzz of concern runsthe length of the train.The engine is uncoupled and pullaround on a siding, bypasses the string ofcars with wondering passengers hanginover the railings. Hooking on to the othe

end it now pushes the train on into BridaVeil Falls station. This is done at thipoint because at the Falls there is no roomfor a turn around and because the gradeis so steep the engine needs to be on thpulling rather than the pushing end.The Heber Creeper made its first tourisrun along the Iron Horse Trail througthe Alps of Utah on July 10, 1971. Thmassive steam engine is gathering friendlike it gathers steam for an uphill pulTourists appreciate the chance for jus

one more train ridebefore the end othis historic era.


35/44

CATARACT CANYONContinued from Page 26

still possible to follow in Powell's footstepsand climb out of the canyon.He laughed and said, "D on 't worry, this rapid isone of the smallest and tamest we wil l hit ."The word "hit" wasn't much comfort.The next morning Bosco and Russ put the gearin waterproof bags, coverecfthem with tarpaulinand lashed ropes across the boats. During therunning of the rapids we sat on the tarpau lin andheld on to the ropes.Since I wanted to take pictures of the otherboat running the rapid from shore, we were the firs tthrough. As the boat entered the rap id it seemedto bend in all directions and attim es shoot completelyout of the w ater. I was sure we were go ing to h it agiant boulder head-on and was ready to leap overthe side. But Russ expertly maneuvered the boataround the rocks and in a few m inutes wewere in calm wate'.

After resting a minute to calm my nerves,I climbed on a boulder and shot pictures of the otherboat as it repeateo our firs t ride. From shore I couldsee that the boat did bend as it went up and under thewaves which at times completely covered the craft.It was the start of an adventure that can onlybe realized by a first-hand experience. As we passedthrough each rapid, I gained confidence and bythe th i rd , I was holding on the ropes with one handand shooting pictures with my other and shoutinglike a wild cowboy on a bucking bronco.After two of the worst rapidsby this time I wascalling them the best because they gave us a morethr i l l ing ridew e had to stop and bail waterout of the boats.Th eth ird night we camped above the final rapidfor below it are the calm waters of Lake Powell andsheer cliffs prevented us from finding a camping spot.As I listened to the water rush ing over therocks on our final night I fell asleep, wishing ouradventure had only just begun. I had becomea river rat in every sense of the w ord.

During my four-day journey down the Greenand Colorado Rivers, I found th e tran qu il peace ofsmooth waters, the excitement of run ning one of thefew rapids left in the West, learned how insign ificant isman in relation to the million s of years it took tocreate the m ajestic geological formation s thro ughwhich we passedan d became one with the universeas I slept out under the star-studded skies.Next time I fly over that little brown ribbon withthe white threads, I'll remember a four-day adventurewhich can only be found in the wilderness areas of theWest. You, too , will find adventure and anunforgetable expedience by running one of the"w ild rivers " of the West.

Author examines carving on rock made by C. W. Wright in 1 89 1after one of his boats was wrecked. There are several such tragicsigns along the rapids made by others.

This is not the way to run the river. This raft (above) of empty tanswas found below one rapid. No one in author's party knew how itgot there. This is the way to run the rapids and come out safely.Headed for Hite Marina (below) and the end of the journey, theadventurers relax as boats travel over the calm waters of Lake Powell.

i - 1 ii

A-


36/44

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SHOVEL-NOSED SAND SNAKEContinued from Page 17

ranges between 70 and 90 degrees. Winddoes not discourage him.

Insects are the main items on the bill offare, including beetles, ants and the pupasof various moths. Spiders are downedwith gusto. Since snakes do not chew ortear food, but swallow it entirely, th eproblem is to keep prey from getting awayin the process. It is solved neatly by theconstruction of snake jaws. These aremade in sections, any of which can remainstationary, while others move. Thereforethe teeth in one jaw section keep a tighthold while the prey is inched down the

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throat by other jaw sections moving irotation. A snake can breathe while swallowing, incidentally, because the openinin his windpipe is far forward betweehis jaws just behind the sheath for hs lender tongue.

All this is ,i very good deal lor Chiwhen dining on scorpions for he dearlloves such a tasty snack and can handfairly good-sized and powerful ones. Maing a quick dart, he grabs the scorpionear the base ot its stinger, backs into thsand dragging it with him, thus using threverse sand pressure to help get the bepurchase. Then out into the open again begin the leisurely and sure swallowintechnique, snake style. During the prcess, the scorpion is bent into a 1 ' -shapwith the business end of the stinger poining at its ow n both1. The finale being onthe claws and stinger left which abrought firmly together by Ch ios jaws ito a neat compact b u n d l e , d u o ' s elastthroat opens up, and down it goes.

Chio himself has plenty of enemiranging from owls to coyotes, but mainin the bigger snake departm ent kinsnakes, rosy boas, gopher snakes, coawhips venturing further into the

197209 desert magazine 1972 september

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