Daemon Bikes 2-Stroke Motor Installation Guide

By Tim Carlielle-Shaw Copyright 2010

Step 1: Choosing a Motor Kit

The first step towards having your own Daemon Bikesʼ motorized bike is to choose a kit from the Daemon Bike Website. Some important things to consider are legality, price and your mechanical aptitude.

The basic kit is the 49cc 2-stroke motor, which is standard from almost all motorized bike stores. The differences to the Daemon Bike 49cc kits lie inside of the engine. These kits have higher quality internal parts (bearings, engine pins, ect.) which are rated for close to 27,000 rpm, where other lower quality 49cc kits are often only rated for 6000 rpm. One of the reasons many people choose to purchase a 49cc kit over higher powered motors is legality. In most places, 49cc motors are under the legal limit for a motorized bike. Keep in mind, however, it is very difficult to tell the difference between a 49cc and an 80cc engine and in most cases an 80cc motor shouldnʼt be an issue.

The next step up from the 49cc motor kit is the 80cc kit. Although marketed as an 80cc, the true engine size is measured at 70cc. Other motors marketed as 80cc are usually only 66cc. These motors are more powerful than the 49cc, and are the most common kits bought. A well broken in motor can easily reach speeds of over 50 kmh. (31mph) This is fast enough to keep up to city traffic, and in areas with speed bumps or slower traffic, these 80cc kits are perfect, as it is easy to overtake cars and rapidly arrive at your destination. Like the 49cc kits, these motors have high-grade internal pins and bearings, making them last longer than many cheaper motor kits. The 80cc kits come in 3 different colors: chrome, black and silver. Chrome kits usually are slightly better made and therefore easier to install than the other kits.

For your best biking experience, there is also the 4 stroke 49cc motor. These motors have several features that makes them better than the 2-stroke motors. The first is that 4-stroke motors are easier to use and require less maintenance, while having a higher top speed than the 2-strokes. The second advantage is that these motors do not require oil and gas to be mixed, which means you can fill them up directly from the pump. Another feature of these motors is that the engine burns less oil, meaning less pollution and smog, and a cleaner tomorrow.

Step 2: Choosing a Bike

When choosing a bike for your motor, there are several things to consider.

All bikes are different. These motors are made for V-frame bikes with 26” wheels, and will almost always fit any 26” V-frame bike. Beach-cruiser style frames can also be used with much success, however it is important to make sure the motor will fit before buying the bike. Accessories on the frame of the bike, such as water-bottle holders, can get in the way of the installation, and the back wheel of the bike cannot have disk breaks.

When shopping for a bike, it is important to think about where you will primarily ride your motorized bike. If you think it will be used mostly on gravel, grass and trails, it is advisable to select a bike with grippy tires, front suspension and a stronger frame. If your primary use of a motorized bike will be to run errands in a town or city, a road bike will give you the most satisfaction. When you find a bike you like, it is a good idea to check if the motor will fit. Bring the engine to the store selling the bike, and ask a sales representative if it would be okay to test fit the motor. Also bring some cloth to place around the mounts of the motor to avoid scratching the bike frame up.

Step 3: Pre - Installation

To properly prepare for the installation of your motor, it is important to have a place to build your bike where your work will be uninterrupted. Installation can easily be done in a day by a backyard mechanic, however avoid

rushing this project. If possible work on it for shorter periods of time over several weeks to perform a quality installation. For many people this is far from a rainy day project, however, donʼt give up as this can be a very fun and rewarding project, and the finished product makes the hard work more than worth the effort.

When your kit arrives in mail, donʼt go wild ripping it apart and spreading the contents through out your house. Open the box and carefully remove itʼs contents. Lay out the parts, and make sure that everything is there and nothing is broken or damaged. A list of parts for the kit can be found on the Daemon Bikes website. If you believe that an item is damaged or missing, take a picture of the kit contents and packaging and send a message to Daemon Bikes customer service using the Contact Us forum on their website. If possible, use a bike stand or other means to support your bike through the installation process. This makes the installation much easier and more enjoyable.

Step 4: Installation - The Engine

To attach the engine to the frame of the bike, begin by removing any water bottle fixtures or other accessories that may get in the way of the engine. Remove the mounting hardware from the bolts coming out of the engine. Place the engine on the frame, and reinstall the mounting hardware. First the clamps, then the washers, the split ring washers and finally the nuts. Use a 10 mm wrench to tighten the nuts.

It is important to make sure the nuts are as tight as possible. Spin the cranks to make sure the pedals do not rub against the motor. If they do, loosen the nuts closest to the crank that rubs and tighten the nuts on the other side. It might take a bit of trial and error before the motor is centered properly. If the motor doesnʼt fit on the frame, or if it is too close to the cranks or the sprocket, you can custom mount the engine using the included c-clamp.

Step 5: Installation - The Muffler

Attaching the muffler to the motor is a very simple procedure. You will notice two studs protruding from the front of the engine. The muffler simply fits on these studs, followed by the washers, split-ring washers and finally the nuts. Tighten the nuts fairly tight, however, be careful of over tightening the nuts as this could result in a broken stud.

If a stud does break, a screw removal tool can be used to pull out the broken stud, and a new one can be bought at your local hardware store. Once the muffler is attached, spin the bikes cranks. If the pedals touch the muffler, remove it and place the muffler in a wooden vice. Then bang the muffler with a rubber mallet to bend it so the pedals donʼt rub.

Step 5: Installation - The Sprocket

Attaching the sprocket to the rear wheel can be one of the most frustrating parts of this project if not installed correctly. Begin by removing the rear wheel from your bike and secure it in a vice. If you donʼt have a vice, rest it firmly against a wall. The strategy to installing the rear sprocket is to have a fibre ring on the inside of the wheel and another on the outside. The sprocket then gets bolted through these fibre rings, and then the three metal plates. When the bolts are tightened, the fibre rings compress to sandwich the spokes of the wheel between them.

" " " " " Start by cutting one of the fibre rings between two of the holes so you can get it on the inside of the wheel. A sharp packaging knife can be used to do this. Then place the ring on the hub inside the wheel.

Next put the other fibre ring on the outside of the wheel, so it matches up to the first fibre ring with the spokes between. Now, line the sprocket up with the fibre rings. The concave side of the sprocket should be facing the spokes. Next place the bolts through the sprocket, fibre rings and finally the three metal plates. Put the washers on the bolts first, followed by

the split ring washers and finally the nuts.

Get all the nuts finger tight, then use a 10 mm wrench to tighten them up properly. Use an alternating ʻstar formationʼ to tighten the nuts. Tighten one nut, then the nut opposite to it, and so forth. This will result in a good, balanced sprocket, which is optimal for use of this bike. You might find that attaching the sprocket will warp the tire

towards the side the sprocket is on, and on some bikes this can make the rim difficult to put back on the bike, as the wheel may rub against the frame. If this is the case, buy a spoke wrench from your local sport store and loosen the spokes on the side of the sprocket and tighten the spokes opposite to the sprocket. Finally, reinstall the rear wheel.

Step 6: Installation - The Chain

The chain that comes with this kit usually needs to be shortened to fit the bike. Begin by removing the masterlink of the chain. To do this, use a pair of needle nose pliers to snap the circlip of the masterlink off, then remove the cover and pin plate of the masterlink. Next, you will need to fit the chain to the bike to determine how much shorter the chain needs to be. Remove the engine plate on the back left side of the engine. This will expose a sprocket. Thread the chain through the sprocket, using the included spark plug tool to turn it. Once the chain is around the sprocket, pull it tight around the rear sprocket and back to the other end of the chain. Measure how many links need to be removed.

To cut the chain there are two different approaches. The first and easiest is to use a chain break tool, available for purchase at most sporting stores. Also, many motorcycle repair shops have chain break tools, so it would be possible to get the chain broken there. The second way to break the chain is to use a rotary tool with a grinder and

cutting wheel attachment, a pin punch and a hammer. First grind the chain pin on the link you want to cut down flat, as in image A. Next do the same to the other side. Both sides should be flat, as in image B. Now use a cutting disk to cut the chain, as shown in image B. Finish the process of cutting the chain by using the hammer and punch to knock the pin out.

Once the chain is broken, rethread it through the sprocket and reinstall the masterlink. Begin by pushing the two pins of the masterlink through the two ends of the chain. Next, place the cap onto the masterlink. Finish by snapping the circlip into place with a pair of needle nosed pliers. Make sure the closed end of the circlip is facing the direction of travel of the chain. Finish the chain installation by bolting on the chain tensioner. Make sure the chain is fairly tight, as it will stretch slightly throughout the break in period.

Image A Image B

Knock pin out here

Cutting wheel here

Step 7: Installation - The Carburetor

Attaching the carburetor is a fairly easy procedure. Begin with the carb and the bike cable with no springs on it. Take the carb apart by unscrewing the top. Lay the pieces out. There should be a spring, a washer, a pin and a metal cylinder. Start by sticking the pin into the cylinder. Then push the cable through the screw on top, then through the spring, and finally pull it into the nook in the metal cylinder. Now drop the washer into the cylinder so it rests flat. Reinstall the cylinder, making sure the notch in the carb lines up with the slit in the cylinder. Finish up by screwing the top back onto the carb.

This setup gets bolted on to the intake manifold as shown in the image on the right. Make sure the carburetor is in this orientation. Also, make sure there is no space between the carb and the engine, as this will allow dust and air into the chamber, which will reduce the life of your engine. If the carburetor doesnʼt quite fit onto the engine, donʼt force it. Use a rotary tool, a file or even sandpaper to grind down the end of the intake manifold. Make sure the carb is securely attached.

Step 8: Installation - The Throttle

To attach the throttle assembly start by taking apart the twist throttle. You will see that there is a hook in the twist grip. This hook is made for other end of the cable that you attached to the carburetor in the previous step. Once you thread the cable through the twist throttle assembly and hook it to the twist grip, you will notice a small pin in the top of the throttle assembly. You will need to drill a small hole

into the handle bars for this hole. To drill a hole in metal, it is necessary to first use a hammer and a center punch to make a small hole in the metal where you want the hole to be. Also, it makes the process easier if you use a small drop of lubricant in the hole. Place a 3/16” drill bit on the hole and firmly apply pressure. Take care to drill the hole straight, as a crooked hole can damage the drill bit. Finish by screwing the throttle assembly together on the handle bars, with the pin going into the hole you just drilled.

Note that to install the throttle you will have to remove any grips from the handle bars. Also, on bikes with twist grip gear shifting, it might not be possible to have a twist throttle.If this is the situation, an alternative to using a twist throttle is to use a break lever for the throttle.

Step 9: Installation - The Electronics

The electronics are one of the most precise aspects of two stroke engines, and understanding how the electronics work is key to troubleshooting many common problems.

There is a small generator inside the engine called the magneto. When the motor turns, the magneto generates electricity, which is used to create a spark. That spark ignites the fuel and air mixture inside the cylinder of the motor. This is why it is necessary to turn the motor over by pedaling the bike before it will start.

The electricity from the magneto then goes to the CDI, which is the small black box shown left. The electricity has a currents, and must run a complete circuit through the CDI to create a spark. Plug the wires from the engine into the wires of corresponding colors going into the CDI. If the white wire or blue wire make any connection to the black wire or the frame, it will form a short which will stop the engine from starting and might also fry your CDI.

The thick black wire from the engine connects to the spark plug. Tighten the spark plug using the included spark plug tool. Make sure the cap from the spark plug wire is removed before connecting the spark plug. Also, you will see two wires coming out of the throttle assembly. These wires are for the kill switch. Plug one wire into each of the wires coming out of the CDI. Pressing the kill switch forms an electrical short, which prevents the spark plug from sparking.

Step 10: Installation - The Clutch

The clutch on these motorized bikes is hand operated. The black lever included in this kit acts as the clutch. When you pull the black lever in the engine disengages, and can be pedaled freely. The clutch also has a lock so when you want to pedal the bike you can do so without holding the clutch in. Pull the clutch in the whole way and use your thumb to push down the pin near the lever. While still holding the pin down, slowly release the clutch. This will lock the clutch in neutral.

To install the clutch, remove the grip from the left side of the handle bars. Loosen the screw on the clutch and push it onto the handle bar. Position it so it will be comfortable to operate, and adjust the break lever as necessary. Now tighten the screw and replace the grip. If you want the grip to match the throttle grip, use the included grip that comes with the kit. Hook the clutch cable into the clutch lever. The other end of the cable gets attached to the clutch arm on the engine. The clutch arm on the engine is highlighted by Arrow D.

B

To attach the clutch cable to the engine, first note the two springs. The larger spring is used to protect the cable from the heat of the engine. Position it as illustrated by Arrow B. The cable then goes through the cable stop on the engine, Arrow A, then the small spring, Arrow C, and finally the clutch arm, Arrow D. The Clutch cable will stretch slightly with use, so it will be necessary to adjust the clutch after some use.

Step 11: Installation - The Fuel System

The fuel system on this engine is fairly simple. A gravity feed system is used to get the fuel into the engine. Because of this no pumps are used, however, the gas tank must be located higher than the carburetor or the fuel will not go into the engine. Typically, the gas tank gets bolted to the top of the bike frame. Once the gas tank is securely attached to the frame, the next step is to remove any contaminants from the tank. Take off the lid of the tank and use a vacuum to suck out any scrap material from inside the tank. NOTE: Never do this with a tank that has held gasoline. Next screw on the fuel valve. First wrap a piece of gas line Teflon thread seal tape around the threads of the fuel valve. Then screw it tightly onto the gas tank. Now cut the piece of gas line roughly in the middle and attach the gas filter. Then attach one end of the fuel line to the carburetor at the gas intake. (Arrow E)

DB A C

E

Step 12: Installation - Finishing up

Finish the installation by attaching the chain guard. The bent end of the chain guard gets bolted to the engine underneath the clutch arm. Connect the other side of the chain guard to the frame by using a zip tie. Also, use zip ties to secure all cables and wires to the frame. Finally, double check the electronics. Make sure all the wires are well insulated and if necessary use electrical tape to additionally insulate the wires.

If you are having difficulties with any of the steps involved with installing the engine, or for more information, be sure to check out the installation video on the daemon bikes website.