25–28 May 2005

Four Seasons Hotel

Philadelphia

Dress Scholarship Unlimited: From Fig Leaves to Bling-Bling, Let Research Ring!

May 25-28, Philadelphia

Hosted by CSA Mid-Atlantic Region, Philadelphia Museum of Art, and Drexel University

The city of brotherly love and birthplace of independence welcomes Costume Society of America members to their thirty-first Annual Meeting and Symposium. Philadelphia, the second largest city on the East Coast, encompasses over three centuries of history from its Quaker beginnings to its current diversity; the multi-faceted city also boasts delightful restaurants, shops, and markets. Headquartered at the Four Seasons hotel, which has given CSA members extremely reasonable rates, conference attendees will explore the city’s unique educational and cultural institutions and enjoy special costume displays; the decidedly ecumenical symposium topic will consider the disciplines of dress and culture studies across all aspects of human appearance and adornment. Join us to ask stimulating questions, open dynamic new dialogues, and discuss fascinating new findings or conclusions.

Dress scholarship, the focus of juried papers, research exhibitions, and break-out sessions, will be furthered by distinguished invited scholars, such as Keynote Speaker Dr. Elizabeth Barber; this year a new Speaker’s Dinner & Dialogue will allow for further exchange about her multidisciplinary research. Also new at this year’s symposium are sessions designed especially for students, living history presenters, and collectors, along with a Clothing Care Clinic to share the preservation aspect of our work with the public. Also featured are symposium favorites, including presentations of costume exhibitions and theatrical costume designs and the Marketplace and Silent Auction, and a plethora of events for dress enthusiasts to share interests and information. In addition, pre- and post-symposium events offer hands-on workshops, shopping excursions, and tours of the city and the culturally rich surrounding regions.

Thanks to the entire Symposium Planning Committee, we are sure the Philadelphia Symposium will leave you stimulated, enlightened, and satisfied.

Kristina HauglandBarbara DarlinCo-Chairs

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Symposium Schedule Schedule subject to change as necessary. All buses leave hotel from 18th Street & Benjamin Franklin Parkway. Four Seasons Hotel • One Logan Square • Philadelphia

TUESDAY, MAY 24

6:00-10:00pm Board Meeting Four Seasons, Washington Room Dinner at 7:30 Jefferson Room

WEDNESDAY, MAY 25Pre-symposium tours and workshops described on page 11 8:30-4:30 Pre-Symposium Tour Textiles with a Past at Winterthur and

Chester County Historical Society 9:00-12:00 Board Meeting Four Seasons, Washington Room 10:30-12:45 Pre-Symposium Tour Fabriholics Shopping Spree (morning) 10:30-1:00 Pre-Symposium Walking Tour of Philadelphia #1 meet in lobby 12:00-8:00 Registration Four Seasons, Jefferson Foyer 12:45-4:30 Pre-Symposium Tour Fabriholics Shopping Spree (afternoon) 2:00-4:30 Pre-Symposium Walking Tour of Philadelphia #2 meet in lobby 2:00-4:00 Pre-Symposium Workshop Defying Gravity: Dress as

Architecture Four Seasons 2:00-4:00 Pre-Symposium Workshop Papier-Mâché Mask Making

Four Seasons 2:00-10:00 Set-up for Marketplace and Silent Auction Ballroom North 5:00-5:30 First Time Attendees & Mentors Meet Four Seasons,

Jefferson Room Meet a friendly CSA veteran to introduce you to others and walk to the reception.

5:30-7:00 Opening Reception with Mummers’ Serenade, Moore College of Art (20th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway, two blocks from hotel), Fox Commons & Great Hall. Wear your fig leaves or bling-bling, or come as the personification of your research topic.

7:00-8:00 Awards Presentations Moore College of Art, Stewart Auditorium 8:00 Dinner on your own

THURSDAY, MAY 26

6:30-10:00am Registration Four Seasons, Ballroom Foyer 7:00-8:30 Breakfast Buffet Four Seasons, Swann Lounge 8:30-8:40 Welcome Four Seasons, Ballroom South 8:40-10:00 Crazes & Rages

Three Juried Papers & Questions/Comments (Moderator: Mark Hutter, Abstracts Co-Administrator)

• Lind-O-Mania! Jenny Lind’s Influence on Dress in the United States, Christina M. Johnson, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/F.I.D.M. Museum

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Thursday continued • Unpacking the Roman Scarf, Cynthia Cooper, McCord Museum

of Canadian History • “A Season of Cellophane Everywhere”: Cellophane Fashions, 1932-

1936, Clare M. Sauro, The Museum at FIT 10:00-10:20 Annual Meeting Part 1 Four Seasons, Ballroom South 10:20-1:10 Museum Tours. Visit two of the following:

University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, National Constitution Center, Fabric Workshop and Museum, Atwater Kent Museum, Mütter Museum. (see descriptions page 12)

1:10-2:30 Lunch Buffet, seating by interest groups Four Seasons, Ballroom South 2:00-4:00 Set-up continues for Marketplace & Silent Auction Ballroom North 2:30-4:30 Concurrent Sessions Four Seasons, Washington, Jefferson, Adams,

& Monroe Rooms. Choice of: a) Costume Exhibitions Presentations. Armchair tours by

curators discussing the ideas behind and installation of their recent exhibitions.

b) Theatrical Costume Presentations. Armchair tours by designers discussing the inspiration and realization of their recent productions.

c) Student Seminar. This new session gives students a chance to talk to professionals from diverse dress-related fields, meet other students, and learn about CSA grants and resources for students.

d) Collectors’ Roundtable. A new session allowing collectors to meet and discuss their common interests and collecting practices and let CSA leadership know how to best serve collectors’ needs.

4:30-9:00 Marketplace and Silent Auction Four Seasons, Ballroom North (see descriptions page 12)

5:00-6:00 Marketplace Reception Four Seasons, Ballroom North 5:30-7:00 Living History Showcase Four Seasons, Jefferson Room & Foyer. A

new informal forum for living history interpreters to show their handiwork and get valuable input from fellow costume enthusiasts. Stroll through the Marketplace to display your costume.

THURSDAY EVENING Optional Events (see descriptions page 13):

7:00-7:30 Registration for Clothing Care Clinic Ballroom Foyer 7:30-9:00 Clothing Care Clinic Four Seasons, Ballroom South. Free for

CSA members attending the symposium. Public welcome. 7:00-10:00 The Philadelphia Experience on South Street 7:30-11:00 West Side Story at the Walnut Street Theatre (curtain at 8pm)

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FRIDAY, MAY 27

6:30-10:00am Registration Four Seasons, Ballroom Foyer 7:00-8:30 Breakfast Buffet Four Seasons, Swann Lounge 7:00-8:30 Past Presidents’ Meeting Room 361 8:40-10:00 The Power of Style

Three Juried Papers & Comments/Questions Four Seasons, Ballroom South (Moderator: Barbara Darlin, Symposium Co-Chair)

• “A Few Perfect Clothes”: Fashion and Status in Interwar England, Catherine Horwood, Royal Holloway, University of London

• Balenciaga and His Legacy, Myra Walker, Texas Fashion Collection

• The Glitterati: “Bling-Bling” and Conspicuous Consumption in Fashion at the Turn of the Twenty-First Century, Naomi Spinak, San Diego State University

10:00-10:45 Beverage Break Ballroom Foyer 10:00-12:00 Marketplace and Silent Auction open Four Seasons, Ballroom

North (see descriptions page 12) Make your purchases and do your final bidding! Both close at 12:00 noon. High bidders pick up silent auction items through 1:15.

10:00-12:00 Adjudicated Research Exhibits (listed chronologically) In the Four Seasons, Washington Room:

• Athenian Wives: Re-reading the Costume of the Maidens of the Parthenon East Frieze, Margaret N. Clark, Case Western Reserve University

• The Archaeology of Dress: Exploring Personal Appearance through Artifacts of Personal Adornment, Carolyn L. White, Cultural Resource Consulting Group, NJ

• Original Costume Designs for She Stoops to Conquer, Leslie Littell, Oakland University, MI

• Image of a Hero, Dawn Fairchild, Rockingham Association, NJ • “My Chambermaid Dresses as Well as I Do”: Working Class Dress

for Early Nineteenth-Century Living History Interpretation, Ann Buermann Wass, Riverdale House Museum, MD

• 'All the World Laid by Art and Science at Her Feet': Early Synthetic Dyes, Color, and Taste in Female Fashion and Culture in the Mid Nineteenth-Century, Charlotte C. Nicklas, The Bard Graduate Center, NY

• Importance of Shawls in the American Market between 1855-1875, Vandita Prasad, Independent Scholar, OH

• Belles, Beaux, and Buttons, Gerilyn Tandberg, Louisiana State University

• Americans à la Mode: How Godey’s and Peterson’s Re-Present Les Modes Parisiennes and Le Journal des Demoiselles, Karin J. Bohleke, Hood College, MD

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Friday continued • Novelty Hand Fans: Frequently Overlooked Fashionable, Functional and

Fun Accessories, Cynthia Fendel, Hand Fan Productions, Dallas • Second Time’s a Charm: The Conservation, Restoration, and Exhibition

of a Nineteenth-Century Dress from the Merchant’s House Museum, Helen Kapodistrias, Merchant’s House Museum, NY

In the Four Seasons, Jefferson Room: • Dreaming the “Gold Mountain”: Clothing Acculturation of Korean

Immigrants, 1903-1945, Juyeon Park, University of Minnesota • Chinese Hybrid: Bling-Bling from 1911 to 1940, Marilyn DeLong

and Juanjuan Wu, University of Minnesota • Dating a Mariano Fortuny Delphos Gown, Amy R. Dykes and

Patricia Hunt-Hurst, University of Georgia • Beauty Curls, Bobby Puffs, and Bob Covers: A Study of Hair Goods

in the Sears Catalog from 1920-1930 in Relation to the Hairstyles of Rural American Women, Marci Morimoto, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

• Using Today’s Technology to Demonstrate Madeleine Vionnet’s Method of Draping on the Bias, Betty Kirke, Independent Scholar, NY

• Firm Foundations in Peace and War, 1937-1949, Jane Farrell-Beck, Iowa State University

• The Importance of Style: A Content Analysis of Dress-Related Advertisements in Kentucky Derby Souvenir Magazines, Julianne Trautmann, Illinois State University

• Lights, Camera, Wardrobe! Dressing the American Femme Fatale of the 1940s, Marie Botkin, California State University, Sacramento

In the Four Seasons, Adams Room: • The Impact of Postmodernism on Fashion since the 1980s, Melody

A. Pena and Patricia Hunt-Hurst, University of Georgia • The Portraiture of Jim Jocoy as Documentary Photography: The

Meaning of Style and the Neo-Punk Revival, Randolph J. Davis, Independent Scholar, MD

• American Goth: A Look at Clothing Preferences, José Blanco F. and Coty Splichal, Florida State University

• The Globalization of Hip-Hop Style/Fashion, Holly Alford, Virginia Commonwealth University

• Selecting Needles, Threads, and Stitches to Repair Historic Costumes, Margaret T. Ordoñez, University of Rhode Island

• Two Color, Blend Fabric Dyeing Using Fiber Specific Dyes, Colleen Muscha, Florida State University

• Standards in the Visual and Linguistic Language of an Online Historic Costume Collection, Kathi Martin, Drexel University

• Digital Dress: Creating a Digital Archive for Your Collection, Kelly Richardson, Elizabeth Sage Historic Costume Collection, Indiana University

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Friday continued 12:00-1:30 Lunch Buffet, sit with someone you don’t know, and

Annual Meeting Part 2 Four Seasons, Ballroom South & Foyer 12:00-1:00 High bidders pick up Silent Auction Items Ballroom North 12:00-1:00 Regional Presidents' Meeting Jackson Room 1:30-2:00 Walk to Philadelphia Museum of Art (26th Street & Benjamin Franklin

Parkway, less than a mile from hotel, or about a 15 minute walk; those unable to walk may sign up for transportation.)

2:00-2:10 Welcome, Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA), Van Pelt Auditorium. 2:10-3:30 Reflections of Faith

Three Juried Papers & Questions/Comments

(Moderator: Kristina Haugland, Symposium Co-Chair)

• “Visions of Others”: Changes in Shaker Doctrine as Viewed Through the Acceptance or Denial of Popular Worldly Fashion, Kimberly D. Praria, Peter Wentz Farmstead, PA

• Plain and Peculiar: A Case Study of Nineteenth-Century Quaker Clothing, Erin E. Eisenbarth, Yale University Art Gallery

• Costume and Decorum in Golden Age Spain: The Paradox of Francisco de Zurbarán’s Female Saints, Lori Kata, Bryn Mawr College

3:30-4:30 Break. Enjoy the museum, including “Fashion’s Favorites from the 18th and Early 19th Centuries” in the Costume & Textiles Gallery. The museum is open until 8:45.

4:30-5:15 2004 Millia Davenport Publication Award Presentation, PMA, Van Pelt Auditorium. Miracles and Mischief: Noh and Kyõgen Theatre in Japan, Sharon Takeda, Los Angeles County Museum of Art

5:15-6:10 International Perspectives Two Juried Papers & Questions/Comments PMA, Van Pelt Auditorium. (Moderator: Abby Lillethun, Abstracts Co-Administrator)

• Dress Research Bridges the Gap When Data are Missing: The Wrapper of Jerba, Meriem Chida, University of Minnesota

• India Cinema Costume and the Making of National Fashion, 1949-1960, Rachel Puanani Morris, Asia Society, NY

6:10-6:30 Break 6:30-7:30 Keynote Address PMA, Van Pelt Auditorium

How We Came to Dress the Way We Do: Tales from a Scholar’s Thirty-Year Pursuit of Origins Dr. Elizabeth Wayland Barber, author, archeologist, linguist

7:30-9:30 Optional: Speaker’s Dinner & Dialogue with Dr. Elizabeth Barber (see description page 13) Philadelphia Museum of Art, Wintersteen Center. Or dinner on your own

SATURDAY, MAY 28

6:30-10:00am Registration Four Seasons, Ballroom Foyer 7:00-8:30 Breakfast Buffet Four Seasons, Swann Lounge

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Saturday continued 8:30-10:10 Concurrent Juried Papers and Questions/Comments

Four Seasons, Ballroom South and North Choice of two concurrent sessions of four papers:

Around the Nineteenth Century (Moderator: Barbara Darlin,

Symposium Co-Chair)

• Hair: The Rise of Individuality, 1790-1840, Anne Bissonnette, Kent State University Museum

• A Quartermaster’s Challenge: Uniforms of the Spanish-American War, Dorothy Pandaleon, Scarsdale Historical Society, NY

• Bringing Up the Rear: A History of Late Nineteenth-Century Bustles, Leslie Bellais, Wisconsin Historical Society

• Inventiveness in Women’s Bicycle Skirts as Revealed in American Utility Patents, 1893-1913, Mihaela C. Peteu and Sally I. Helvenston, Michigan State University

Twentieth-Century Trends (Moderator: Abby Lillethun, Abstracts Co-

Administrator)

• “Everything is Hot-tentotsy Now!”: Jazz Dance and 1920s Fashion, Susan L. Hannel, University of Rhode Island

• Tiki Style: Pacific Influences on American Dress and Textiles of the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s, Melinda Webber Kerstein, Los Angeles County Museum of Art

• Vera Maxwell: Timely and Timeless, Pamela E. Grimaud, Parsons School of Design

• Hollywood Scandal: Edith Head & Celanese “Star in Crepe,” Kevin L. Jones, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/F.I.D.M. Museum

10:10-10:30 Beverage Break Ballroom Foyer 10:30-12:00 Concurrent Sessions Four Seasons, Washington, Jefferson, Adams,

& Monroe Rooms. Choice of: a) Scholars’ Roundtable. This symposium session provides a

forum for CSA’s appointed Scholars to share their opinions and experiences in a panel discussion focused on a selected topic; the dialogue and questions from the audience are intended to stimulate interest in costume scholarship.

b) Interpretation, Misinterpretation, Reinterpretation. A reprise of last year’s popular presentation, chaired by Colleen Callahan of the Costume & Textile Specialists and Susan North of the Victoria & Albert Museum. Curators, conservators, and collectors will discuss the ways historical garments have been misinterpreted or misunderstood, the often surprising correct interpretations, and objects in need of correct identifying or interpreting.

c) Storage Solutions. Sara Reiter, Associate Conservator of Costume and Textiles, will share the process of planning PMA’s new costume and textiles storage facility, scheduled

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to open in late 2006. Areas of dialogue include: determining needed space; available storage systems and their pros and cons; low cost alternatives and what not to use; working with local safety codes; and how to cope with too little space. Then Conservators Julie Randolph and Anne Peranteau will share some of the storage solutions and mounting options that have been developed in preparation for moving PMA’s 30,000 costume and textile objects. Hands-on examples and demonstrations will cover making mounts for everything from spectacles and reticules to flapper dresses and bustled skirts, many easy and quick to make with relatively inexpensive materials.

d) Better Abstract Writing and Taking a Different Course. The first half of this session aims to improve the chances your paper will be accepted for presentation at scholarly conferences. This workshop will discuss the most crucial components of a strong abstract as well as common pitfalls. Seasoned presenter Jane Farrell-Beck of Iowa State University and this year’s Abstracts Co-Administrators, Mark Hutter of the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation and Abby Lillethun of the University of Rhode Island, will be on hand to share their experience and insights. Then Nancy Deihl and Shannon Bell Price will discuss the creation and realization of a Special Topics course developed jointly by the Visual Culture: Costume Studies M.A. program at New York University and the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Topics to be addressed include how the project was created, the challenges of collaboration, integrating the interests and approaches of various presenters, and evaluation of student participation.

12:00-1:30 Lunch Buffet, seating by regions, and Annual Meeting Part 3 Four Seasons, Ballroom

1:30, 1:50 Buses depart for Drexel University (33rd & Market Streets); those on the first bus can view highlights from Drexel’s Historic Costume Collection in the Leonard Pearlstein Gallery, Nesbitt Hall

2:20-3:30 Concurrent Juried Papers, Stella Blum Presentation, and Questions/Comments Drexel University, Nesbitt Hall, Ruth and Stein Auditoriums. Choice of two concurrent sessions of three papers:

Reconstructing History (Moderator: Mark Hutter, Abstracts Co-Administrator)

• Reconstructing an Italian Renaissance Wardrobe: Two Documents from the Montefeltro, Jennifer Webb, Bryn Mawr College

• Borrowed Robes: Costume as Communication at Historic Sites, Jane Malcolm-Davies, University of Surrey/JMD & Co.

• The Adventures of Margaret Brodie: Rediscovering the Life of an Eighteenth-Century Mantua Maker, Janea Whitacre, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation

Masculine Matters (Moderator: Kristina Haugland, Symposium Co-Chair)

• 2004 Stella Blum Research Grant Winner Presentation White

Saturday continued

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Collared: Fashioning Masculinity in American Culture, 1820-1930, Michael Murphy, Washington University in St. Louis

• Advertising and the Creation of the American Adonis: J. C. Leyendecker and the Arrow Collar Man, by Patricia Campbell Warner, University of Massachusetts Amherst

• Palm Beach Fashion: Fountainhead of Men’s Style, 1919-1929, Diane Maglio, Berkeley College, NY

3:30-3:45 Break, and view highlights from Drexel’s Historic Costume Collection in the Leonard Pearlstein Gallery, Nesbitt Hall

3:45-5:15 Concurrent Sessions Drexel University, Nesbitt Hall, Ruth and Stein Auditoriums and Fashion Design Lab, rm 408, 4th flr. Choice of:

a) Deconstructing Queen Elizabeth. The public appearance of Elizabeth I was a carefully crafted construct conveying concepts of celibacy, chivalry, and country. This session explores the 16th century sources, modern resources, and skills used by JMD & Co, specialist in training staff for heritage sites, to reconstruct Elizabeth’s dress from a portrait at Hardwick Hall for public presentation at Hampton Court Palace. The Queen will be dressed layer by layer, explaining how her image was developed while her dressers detail the research behind each garment; a reconstruction of an ordinary dress of the time is shown to contrast with her magnificent dress. Presenters Jane Malcolm-Davies, Caroline Johnson, and Ninya Mikhaila encourage close examination of the garments, fabrics, and construction work, and will allow time for questions and photographs.

b) Interaction of Belief: Clothing and Culture. This panel will discuss some of the various ways different religions and dress intersect, including clothing and its religious interpretation, ethnocentrism as expressed through clothing, and the interaction of beliefs, clothing, and culture in our modern life. Mary Farahnakian of Brigham Young University, a native of Iran, will discuss the ways Muslim beliefs interact with Persian culture; Beverly Chico of Regis University will show how Christianity is reflected in clothing; and Rose Braun of the Ministry of Education and Culture, Israel, will detail the culture of Jewish clothing. The floor will then be opened for questions and dialogue.

c) Power Point Essentials (limited to 12 participants). In this development workshop you will explore the basic skills for creating a presentation in PowerPoint, focusing on practical applications. The topics covered by Charlotte Hall Hamilton of Houston Community College and Kathi Martin of Drexel will include inserting clip art, organization charts, and creating and editing charts. Some advanced features will be briefly reviewed, including customizing templates, creating interactive capabilities through the use of hyperlinks and action buttons, embedding

Saturday continued

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Descriptions

Note: EB = early bird registration, received by April 6th

PRE-SYMPOSIUM TOURS & WORKSHOPS, WEDNESDAY, MAY 25:Tour: Textiles with a Past, 8:30-4:30. Behind-the-scenes tours of the costume and

textile collections of Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library and the Chester County Historical Society. At Winterthur in Delaware, the country estate of antiques collector and horticulturist Henry Francis du Pont (1880-1969), Curator of Textiles Linda Eaton and Textile Conservator Kathleen Kiefer will show off an idiosyncratic yet fascinating selection of some of the finest works of textile art made or used in America between 1640 and 1860. Lunch on your own at the restaurant, then on to the Chester County Historical Society in West Chester, Pennsylvania, where the past is illuminated through the unique lens of local history. A display of accessories from its nationally-known textile collection will be installed especially for CSA, and Director of Collections/Curator Ellen Endslow will enable “up-close” viewing of rarely exhibited items. Cost: $90.00 EB / $110.00

Tour: Fabriholics Shopping Spree, 10:30-12:45 &/or 12:45-4:30. Tour some of Philadelphia’s best fabric stores. In the morning, discover Jo-Mar, the original Northeast Philadelphia fabric warehouse; their motto “It’s all here, you just have to find it,” says it all. Unbelievable prices, and shipping is available for large purchases! After a stop at the hotel to discharge or pick up people, on to 4th Street in South Philly, where fabric shops line several blocks and there are numerous restaurants for lunch on your own. Finally, a visit to the nearby Mummer’s Museum will shed light on the traditions behind the evening’s entertainment. Cost: full day $20.00 EB / $30.00; half day $10.00 EB / $20.00

Walking Tours of Downtown Philadelphia, 10:30-1:00 & 2:00-4:30. Get acquainted with the city during a guided tour of some of the historic and architectural sites that give Philadelphia its ambience. Bottled water provided. Cost: $10:00 EB / $15.00

and importing object multimedia, and collaborating on the web. 5:15-6:00 Farewell Gathering. Enjoy the Drexel Collection and more

highlights from the Historic Costume Collection in the Westphal Picture Gallery (3rd floor, Main Building, 3141 Chestnut Street, a short walk from Nesbitt Hall) Buses depart for Four Seasons between 5:15 and 6:10

6:30-10:00 Board meeting Four Seasons, Adams Room Dinner in Swann Lounge

SUNDAY, MAY 29Post-symposium tours and workshops described on page 13 8:00-4:00 Post-Symposium Tour, Historic Bethlehem 10:00-12:30 Post-Symposium Walking Tour of Philadelphia #3 meet in lobby 10:30-12:30 Post-Symposium Workshop, Period Hats: Simple Trims,

Blocking and Finishing Techniques Four Seasons 10:30-12:30 Post-Symposium Workshop, Miniature Perfection Four Seasons

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Workshop: Defying Gravity: Dress as Architecture, 2:00-4:00. Learn techniques to make fabrics expand into space. Pamela Ptak of Ptak Couture demonstrates dramatic draping and how the materials inside a garment change the way it behaves. Create samples that exemplify each structural principal; a supply list will allow you to repeat the techniques at home. Also included is a trunk show of finished garments using the techniques. Cost: $25.00 EB / $35.00

Workshop: Papier-Mâché Mask Making, 2:00-4:00. Learn how to create papier-mâché masks based on the method of Italian mask artist Agostino Dessi. Jennielynn Streed, costumer at Temple University, shows how to make masks using brown paper and cheesecloth, giving examples of each step since the masks themselves take days to dry. The workshop also includes historical information and discussion of other methods of making masks frequently used in theatre. Cost: $15.00 EB / $25.00

MUSEUM INFORMATION FOR THURSDAY MORNING TOURS:National Constitution Center, which opened on July 4th, 2003, is the first museum

dedicated to the U.S. Constitution. Its high-tech, interactive exhibits highlight the history of our constitution from its signing to the present.

Fabric Workshop and Museum is a unique organization devoted to creating and exhibiting new works in fabric and other materials in collaboration with emerging, international artists. Tour the fully equipped fabric print and dye workshops and visit the latest exhibition.

University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology houses three floors of artifacts from around the world. Egyptian mummies, African masks, and beautiful objects from Alaska to Asia are just a part of the museum’s array of global exhibits.

Atwater Kent Museum is the gateway to Philadelphia history. The museum, located near Independence Mall, houses a permanent exhibit of Norman Rockwell prints and will feature a display of hats from its collection.

Mütter Museum features a unique collection of 20,000 objects related to the medical field, including the Soap Woman, the Giant Colon, the death cast of Siamese twins Chang and Eng, and Florence Nightingale’s sewing kit. An amazing experience but not for the faint of heart!

MARKETPLACE / SILENT AUCTIONMarketplace Vendors: If you sell merchandise of special interest to Symposium

attendees, apply to sell at the marketplace held in the North Ballroom of the Four Seasons Hotel on Thursday evening, May 26th, from 4:30-9:00 and Friday morning, May 27th, from 10:00-12:00. Skirted and draped 6’ x 30” tables are $109 for CSA members each, $149 for non-members; fee includes two chairs and standard electrical outlet; additional charge for telephone, high-speed internet lines and power strips. Set-up times are Wednesday 2:00-10:00 and Thursday 2:00-4:00. Space is limited, so reserve yours early to ensure you reach this special concentrated audience. For an application, contact 800-CSA-9447 or www.costumesocietyamerica.com; for information, contact Marketplace Co-Coordinators Ann Coppinger and Nan Mutnick at (914) 332-7481 or mutnick@fordham.edu.

Silent Auction Donors: Books or other items donated to CSA’s Silent Auction are tax deductible. For information on donating, contact Silent Auction Co-Coordinators Susan Drinan, (215) 685-4839 susandrinan@hotmail.com or Ellen Endslow (610) 692-4066 x. 257 eendslow@chestercohistorical.org; you may bring your donation with you or send it to Susan Drinan, Registrar, Atwater Kent Museum, 15 S. 7th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.

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THURSDAY EVENING OPTIONAL EVENTS:The Philadelphia Experience on South Street, 7:30-10:00. Buses take you to South

Street, Philadelphia’s unique “happening” area, where you can shop in the boutiques, have dinner on your own (list of favorites provided), get a tattoo, or people watch. On the way back, buses will drive by the lights of Boathouse Row along the Schuykill River and other favorite Philly sights. Cost for transportation: $10.00 EB / $15.00

'West Side Story' at the Walnut Street Theatre, 7:30-11:00 (curtain at 8 pm). Walnut Street Theatre is the oldest theatre in America, operating continuously since 1809. Cost for mezzanine seating and transportation: $70.00 EB / $85.00

Clothing Care Clinic: The Conservators’ Guide to Preserving Your Treasured Garments, 7:00-7:30 registration, 7:30-8:30 lecture/demonstration, 8:30-9:00 individual packing. Is your wedding dress in a plastic bag in the attic with acidic tissue turning it brown? Are your vintage treasures crumpled in an old box in the basement? CSA’s experienced textile conservators will show you how to protect your family heirlooms and textile treasures. Packing techniques and materials, cleaning dos and don’ts, and general storage considerations will be outlined by Newbie Richardson of the Costume & Textile Specialists, followed by a demonstration of the correct way to box and support a garment. Professionals then provide individual packing consultations for those who pre-register. Acid-free boxes and tissue will be available for purchase. Lecture/demonstration for CSA members attending the symposium: free, packing assistance: $10.00; public: $10.00 for lecture/demonstration, additional $15.00 for packing assistance. The general public is encouraged to attend (reservations at 800-CSA-9447 or www.costumesocietyamerica.com).

KEYNOTE SPEAKER / DINNER & DIALOGUEDr. Elizabeth Wayland Barber, Professor of Archeology and Linguistics at

Occidental College, received her B.A. from Bryn Mawr and M.A. and Ph.D. from Yale. Her groundbreaking research combining archaeology, linguistics and textiles has resulted in three books, Prehistoric Textiles (1991), Women’s Work--The First 20,000 Years (1994), and The Mummies of Ürümchi (1999); all three received CSA’s Millia Davenport Publication Award among other honors. This dynamic talk will discuss some of Dr. Barber’s favorite costume chases and the various methods she uses when working in eras where data is scarce.

Speaker’s Dinner & Dialogue, 7:30-9:30 Friday. This new event gives participants the chance to hear more from and ask questions of our outstanding Keynote Speaker. After Dr. Barber’s stimulating address, join us in the beautiful, private, barrel-vaulted tunnel beneath the Philadelphia Museum of Art for wine and snacks, a sumptuous buffet dinner, desserts, and a discussion with Dr. Barber. This event is a fundraiser for the symposium. Cost: with symposium registration $80.00 EB / $100.00; otherwise $90.00 EB / $110.00

POST-SYMPOSIUM TOURS & WORKSHOPS, SUNDAY, MAY 29:Tour: Historic Bethlehem, 8:00-4:00 Explore the colonial culture of Bethlehem,

Pennsylvania. The day begins at Burnside Plantation, a Moravian farm illustrating everyday life from 1748-1848, and features a 19th century bank barn, historic kitchen garden and orchards. A drive through Bethlehem’s Historic District ends at the Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts; after a tour of the galleries and period rooms, enjoy a boxed lunch in the Victorian gardens or the colonial God’s Acre cemetery. Conclude at the Moravian Museum, inside a 1741 log house, and also visit the spectacular Central Moravian Church, 1752 Apothecary Shop, and a 1758 Native American mission house. Those with Sunday evening flights can be dropped off at the airport. Cost (includes lunch): $100.00 EB / $120.00

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Walking Tour of Downtown Philadelphia, 10:00-12:30. Get acquainted with the city during a guided tour of some of the historic and architectural sites that give Philadelphia its ambience. Bottled water provided. Cost: $10.00 EB / $15.00

Workshop: Period Hats: Simple Trims, Blocking and Finishing Techniques, 10:30-12:30. Learn how to embellish period hats with inexpensive, contemporary materials. Demonstrations will show basic steps for blocking felt and straw hats and cover machine and hand sewing techniques for finishing hats. Taught by costume designer Millie Hiibel and costumer Jennielynn Streed of Temple University, the workshop is useful to theatre costumers and others. Participants will receive materials to create examples of the techniques in class, samples of other materials, instruction handouts, and a list of books and sources. Cost: $20.00 EB / $30.00

Miniature Perfection, 10:30-12:30. Learn how to craft the tiniest details that put that haute couture signature on a garment in this hands-on workshop. Pamela Ptak of Ptak Couture demonstrates silk chiffon bias pin tucks, 1/16th inch bias tubes, decorative couture insertions of fabric or lace, haute couture chiffon linings, and miniature (1/16th inch) hems for sheers and solids. A trunk show of finished garments highlights the use of these exquisite techniques. Cost: $25.00 EB / $35.00

TRANSPORTATION:Philadelphia is easily accessible by car, plane, train, and bus. Shuttles, taxis, and light

rail service connect the airport to center city. Philadelphia International Airport Information: 215-937-6937, 800-PHL-GATE (800-745-4283), www.phl.org. Amtrak: 800-USA-RAIL, www.amtrak.com, to 30th Street Station; Airport Rail Line R1 connects the airport with center city and operates daily every half hour. $5.50, Exact change required. 215-580-4000, www.septa.org. Shuttle service is available for travel between Philadelphia Airport and the Four Seasons Hotel for $8-$10/one way. Make reservations at the Ground Transportation Counter in each terminal. Allow 20-30 minutes for arrival of shuttle at Zone 7. OR reserve ahead of time by calling: Lady Liberty, 215-724-8888; USA Limo, 800-USA-6070; or Tropiano, 800-559-2040. Taxis are available at Zone 5 at the airport. $20 flat fee for travel to center city.

LODGING:Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia Registration for Costume Society of

America Symposium: Reservations must be received by April 29, 2005 to be assured of the group rate. Be sure to identify yourself with Costume Society of America. The best way to register is to call the hotel toll-free at 866-516-1100 and provide the information on the hotel registration form (see next page). Other options are to mail or fax the form (see contact information on next page).

The Four Seasons is an extraordinary hotel. Among its 2004 accolades are: #1 Hotel in Philadelphia and #15 in North America (Conde Nast Traveler); #1 Hotel in Philadelphia and Top 100 in North America (Travel + Leisure); #1 Hotel and Restaurant in Philadelphia (Zagat Survey); and AAA Five Diamond Award-winning Restaurant.

Reserve early to get your first choice of rooms. People registering at the hotel by Friday, March 18, will be entered into a drawing for an upgrade to an Executive Suite. Drawing will take place April 1. This excellent group rate is available three days prior and three days after the symposium. Check-in time is 3 pm; check-out time is 12 noon.

For more information regarding registration contact CSA at 800-CSA-9447 (800-272-9447). For questions regarding the symposium program and scheduling, contact Kristina Haugland at 215-684-7574, or Barbara Darlin at 610-543-4759, or visit www.costumesocietyamerica.com.

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Hotel Registration Form Costume Society of America Symposium 25–28 May 2005

Identify yourself with Costume Society of America to get special room rates

First Name Last Name

Mailing Address

City State Zip Country

Daytime Phone Evening Phone Fax

Email Arriving Date Departing Date

First/last names of other quests in the room, with arrival/departure dates:

Guest 1: First Name Last Name Arriving Date Departing Date

Guest 2: First Name Last Name Arriving Date Departing Date

Special Requests:❏ Non-smoking ❏ Smoking ❏ ADA Accessible❏ Complimentary roll-away❏ Other: Please describe

Room Requests:

Credit Card Information:

❏ Visa ❏ MasterCard ❏ American Express

Card # Expiration Cardholder’s Name

All room rates are subject to city/state taxes. All reservations must be guaranteed and accompanied by a first night’s room deposit or guaranteed with a major credit card. One room reservation per form. Reservations must be received by April 29, 2005 to be assured of the group rate. Register by calling toll-free, mailing or faxing this Registration Form (or a copy) to:

Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia, Attn: ReservationsOne Logan Square, Philadelphia, PA 19103

215-963-1500 phone 866-516-1100 toll-free directly to the hotel

215-963-9506 fax

❏ Single/Double/Triple at $125/room/night + taxes. Maximum 3 to a room.

❏ Two Twins ❏ One King

❏ Deluxe King at $145/night + taxes.

❏ Executive Suite King at $175/night + taxes.

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