3 in 1 drill press upgrade

8/11/2019 3 in 1 Drill Press Upgrade

1/12

3-IN-1DRILL

PRESS

UPGRADE

2013 August Home Publishing Co.


2/12

Making a drill press more useful

is one of the bigger shop chal-lenges. And when you have to

move the drill press, it can belike wrestling a monster. Another

problem is the small table on mostdrill presses isnt really designedfor woodworking.

A solution for each of theseproblems is shown at right. First,

a cabinet with full-extensiondrawers keeps all those accesso-ries at hand. A mobile base makes

moving the drill press a breeze.And best of all, the large table

makes the drill press ideal forwoodworking tasks.

storagesolutions

Get storage,

mobility, andaccuracy fromthese threeuseful add-ons.

3-in-1Drill

PressUpgrade

1 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved


3/12

}Nesting Bases. The storage

cabinet wraps around the drill press

column and hides the mobile base

Exploded View DetailsOVERALL DIMENSIONS: 2012"D x 18"W x 538"H (BASE

2134"D x 2234"W x 28"H (CABINET12"D x 30"W x 4"H (TABLE & FENCE

ROUTED RECESSES

KEEP DRILL BITS

FROM ROLLING

ONTO THE FLOOR

TURN TO PAGE 7 TO

BUILD THE

DRILL PRESS

AUXILIARY TABLE

MOBILE BASE

MAINTAINS A LOW

CENTER OF GRAVITY

AND INCORPORATES

LEVELERS TO KEEP

DRILL PRESS STABLE

LARGE ROLLERS

MAKE MOVING

THE DRILL PRESS

SAFE AND EASY

BASE OF STORAGE UNIT

FITS OVER MOBILE BASE

CUBBIES OFFER

PLENTY OF

STORAGE FOR

LARGER ITEMS

LARGE DRAWERS O

FULL-EXTENSION SLIDEMAKE DRAWER CONTENT

EASILY ACCESSIBL

WIDE WORKSURFACE

PROVIDES CONVENIENT

ACCESS TO OFTEN-USED

ACCESSORIES

FRONTVIEW

STORAGE

CABINET

BASE DRILL PRESS

MOBILE BASE

STORAGE CABINET

DRILL PRESS

STAND



4/12

Adding a mobile base to a drill

press can make it easier to relocatethe tool or simply clean under-

neath. This mobile base has several

worthwhile features besides beingeasy to build.

First, the low center of gravitykeeps the drill press stable and

less likely to tip. The large roll-ers make it easy to move around

the shop, though youll still wantto keep the top-heavy drill pressunder control as you move it.

Finally, the levelers lock the drillpress in place for stability.

Simple Construction. Themobile base starts with a plywood

panel. Two thick cleats attachedto the upper face help bear theweight of the drill press. The

wheels are fastened to the cleats.Wheel blocking adds stiffness and

strength plus provides convenientmounting points for the levelers

and their knobs.

Base. Youll start by sizing thewidth of the plywood base panelto fit your drill press, adding an

extra 212" to account for the cleats(Figure 1). Drill the series of coun-

tersunk holes on the bottom face.These holes are used to attach the

cleats youll work on next.

Cleats. I cut the cleats to sizeand drilled stopped pilot holes for

the lag screws that serve as wheeaxles. At this point, you can attachthe two cleats to the base with

glue and screws.

Wheel Blocking. The two

pieces of wheel blocking comenext. Theyre shown in Figure2 and look like the fenders on

an automobile. I cut the roughblanks to size and then drilled the

holes for the levelers. A hole sawmakes it easy to rough out the

cutout around the wheels. Theband saw makes quick work ocompleting the shape.

After a little sanding, apply glueand clamp the wheel blocking to

the base and cleats. Youll wanto make sure the top edges are

flush with the cleats as you applyclamping pressure.

Final Details. The last few

details involve rounding over

the top corners and then installing the hardware. To round overthe corners, I turned to the routertable. Flip the base upside down

to rout the 12" roundover illus

trated in Figure 2a.Figures 1 and 2 show you

how the wheels and levelers areinstalled. After applying a cleafinish, you can attach the base to

your drill press. I used a pair of lagscrews to do this.

{ Stability. Moving a top-heavy drill press can be a chore. This

mobile base not only makes the task easier, but once it's in place, the

levelers lock it in position and add stability.

mobile

Base

A

#8 x 1!/2" FhWOODSCREW

BASE(15!/2" x 20!/2" - #/4" Ply.)

B

CLEAT(1!/4" x 3" - 20!/2")

3"-DIA.WHEEL

#/8" x 2"LAG SCREWw/ WASHERS

1!/2

!/2"-RAD.

!/4

NOTE: ENLARGEAXLE BORE INWHEELS TO #/8"-Dia.

FRONT VIEW

CLEAT

BASE

NOTE:GLUE AND

SCREWTHE CLEAT

IN PLACE

a.

SIDE VIEW

1

2#/4

1#/4"-RAD.

#/4"-RAD.

5!/4

!/2"-RAD.

3!/4

4

a.

C

WHEEL BLOCKING(1!/4" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")

C

!/4"-20STAR KNOB

!/4"-20 x 4!/2"THREADED ROD

!/4"-20 T-NUT

!/4"-20 LEVELER

!/2"ROUNDOVER

%/16"-DIA.HOLE

2 FIGURE

1 FIGURE



5/124 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved

Building the storage cabinet foryour drill press starts with the

base. Youll find the constructionpretty similar to the mobile baseon the previous page. Its basically

a box with wheels that fits like aglove over the mobile base.

The details of the construc-tion are shown in Figure 3 above.

A three-sided box is built with abase top, two sides, and a front.The wheels and blocking are sand-

wiched between outer skirts andthe sides of the base. The wheels

are attached with steel pins thatserve as axles.

Base Top. Begin by cutting thetop to size. The U-shaped notchthat wraps around the column

can be cut with a jig saw andsanded smooth.

Side Assemblies. In order todrill the holes for the steel axles eas-

ily and more accurately, I workedon the side assemblies next. Thisinvolves cutting the sides to size

and rabbeting the top edge forattaching the base.

To make the wheel blocking, Iused a hole saw to make the cut-out that surrounds the wheels.

With that done, you can cut the

skirts to final sizeand glue them to thewheel blocking (Fig-

ure 3). After the glue dries, head tothe router table to round over the

edges with a 12" radius, as shownin Figures 3 and 3a.

Glue this sub-assembly to thesides then drill the axle holes.

The last piece to cut is the front.Its rabbeted along the top andends to join with the top of the

base and sides.After assembling the base, you

can install the wheels with steelpins epoxied in place.

BASE TOP(19!/4" x 21" - #/4" Ply.)

HG F

D

!/4" x 2"STEEL PIN

SIDE(#/4" x 5#/4" - 21")

E

FRONT(#/4" x 5#/4" - 19#/4")

WHEEL BLOCKING(1" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")

SKIRT(!/2" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")

3"-DIA.WHEEL

!/2"ROUNDOVER

!/2"-RAD.

5

7!/8

8!/2

2!/2"-RAD.

NOTE: SEEPHOTO PAGE 2

FRONT VIEW

BASE

TOPWHEEL

BLOCKING

SKIRT

STEEL

PIN

SIDE

!/2

#/4

a.

SIDE VIEW

BASE TOP

SIDEWHEELBLOCKING

WHEEL

FRONT

3!/2

2#/4

!/2

#/4

1

1#/4"-RAD.

c.

TOP

VIEW

WHEEL

BLOCKING

SKIRT

FRONT

SIDE

WHEEL

STEEL

PIN

!/4!/2

!/4

b.

Materials & HardwareMOBILE BASE

A Base (1) 1512 x 2012- 34Ply.

B Cleat (2) 114x 3- 2012C Wheel Blocking (2) 114x 334- 2012

STORAGE CABINET

D Base Top (1) 191

4x 21 -3

4Ply.E Sides (2) 34x 534- 21

F Front (1) 34x 534- 1934G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 334- 2012H Skirts (2) 12 x 334- 2012I Top/Bottom (2) 1234 x 1914- 34Ply.

J Sides (2) 1234 x 21 - 34Ply.

K Back (1) 1914 x 2012- 34Ply.

L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 12x 214- 11

M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 12x 214- 1634N Sm. False Fronts (2) 1818x 21516- 34 Ply.

O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 12x 478- 11

P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 12x 478- 1634

Q Med. False Front (1) 1818x 5716- 34 Ply.

R Large Drawer Sides (2) 12x 714- 11

S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 12x 714- 1634T Large False Front (1) 1818x 778- 34 Ply.

U Drawer Bottoms (4) 1012 x 1634- 14Hdbd.

V Tops/Bottoms (4) 738 x 8 - 34Ply.

W Sides (4) 73

8 x 21 -3

4Ply.X Backs (2) 8 x 2012- 34Ply.

Y Shelves (4) 718 x 8 - 34Ply.

Z Shelf Rails (4) 38 x 114- 7

AA Cabinet Top (1) 2014x 2134- 34Ply.

TABLE & FENCE

BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 34Ply.

CC Top (2) 12 x 13116- 14Hdbd.

DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 14Hdbd.

EE Fence (1) 212x 30 - 112Ply.

FF Fence Face (1) 212x 30 - 14Hdbd.

(8) 3" Wheels

(4) 38" x 2" Lag Screws

(10) 14" Washers

(6) 14"-20 Star Knobs

(4) 14"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers

(4) 14"-20 x 412" Threaded Rod

(4)1

4"-20 T-Nuts (10) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews

(4) 14" x 214" Steel Rod

(4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Screws

(16) #6 x 34" Fh Woodscrews


(4) Sash Pulls

(2) 14"-20 x 314" Flange Bolts

(4) 516"-18 T-Nuts

(4) 516" Washers

(4) 516"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)

3FIGUREstorage cabinet

Base


6/12

DRAWER BOTTOM(10!/2" x 16#/4" - !/4" Hdbd.)

4&/8

M

L

T

S

R

Q

P

O

N

O

#6 x #/4" FhWOODSCREW

U

NOTE: DRAWER FRONTS, BACKS, AND SIDESMADE FROM !/2"-THICK HARDWOOD.DRAWER FALSE FRONTS MADE FROM #/4" PLYWOOD.DRAWER BOTTOMS MADE FROM !/4" HARDBOARD.

10" FULL-EXTENSIONDRAWER SLIDE

N

S

LARGE DRAWER

FALSE FRONT(18!/8" x 7&/8" - #/4" Ply.)

LARGE DRAWERSIDE

(!/2" x 7!/4" - 11")

R

MEDIUM DRAWERFALSE FRONT

(18!/8" x 5&/16" - #/4" Ply.)

SMALL DRAWERFALSE FRONT

(18!/8" x 2!%/16" - #/4" Ply.)

LARGE DRAWERFRONT/BACK

(!/2" x 7!/4" - 16#/4")

2!/4

MEDIUM

DRAWERSIDE

(!/2" x 4&/8" - 11")

SMALLDRAWER SIDE

(!/2" x 2!/4"- 11")L

5 FIGURE

K

J

I

BACK(19!/4" x 20!/2")

J

I

TOP/

BOTTOM(12#/4" x 19!/4")

SIDE(12#/4" x 21")

NOTE: ALLPARTS MADE

FROM #/4"PLYWOOD

NOTE: ATTACH CASE TOBASE WITH #8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREWS


adding

Storage 4

FIGURE

SIDEVIEW

DRILLPRESS

POST

COLUMN

!/4

BASE

BACKa.

FRONTVIEW!/2

BASE

SIDE b.

TOPVIEW

!/2

!/4

!/2

!/8

!/16 b.

SIDEVIEW

!/4

!/4!/4

a.

The storage cabinet features ahandy bank of drawers. How-

ever, the depth of the drawers is

limited by the drill press column.So that the space on either side ofthe column isnt wasted, I addeda pair of cubbies to provide use-

ful, additional storage.

Drawer Case. Construction

starts with the drawer case. Fig-ure 4 shows how it goes together.I started by cutting all five parts

to size. The back edges of the topand bottom are rabbeted to join

with the back panel. Three edgesof the side panels are rabbeted, as

well. You can see what I mean inFigures 4a and 4b.

The assembly of the case is

pretty straightforward. A little glueand clamps get the job done. Once

the glue dries, you can attach thecase to the base.

Drawers. As you can see inFigure 5, there are four drawersto build in three different heights.

The joinery is all the same andthe part sizes are identical

except for the width.


The drawers are assembled with

strong tongue and dado joinery. Soonce all the sides, fronts and backs

are cut to size, you can set up anassembly line to cut all the parts.

It all starts with dadoes in the

drawer sides. After switching toa 14" dado blade, you can cut the

grooves for the drawer bottoms

before moving on.Next, bury a dado blade in an

auxiliary rip fence to cut the rabbets on the ends of the drawerfronts and backs. These rabbets

form the tongues that fit into thedadoes in the drawer sides.

After cutting the bottoms to sizeand gluing up all the drawers, you

can mount them on full-extension slides, as shown in Figure 5


7/12

Then cut and fit the false fronts andinstall the pulls.

Storage Cubbies. The storagecubbies are next. They fit behindthe case flush with the sides.

The construction of the cubbiesis similar to the drawer case. The

details are illustrated in Figure 6.

The only difference in the construc-tion is a dado cut in the sides and

back to house a fixed shelf.After cutting the shelf to size,

you can assemble the case. Onemore detail to add is the pair of

shelf rails. These are simply gluedin place before you attach the cub-

bies to the cabinet.

Finally, a Top. The last pieceof the puzzle is the large cabinet

top you see in Figure 7. Like thebase, it wraps around the drill

press column and provides addi-tional worksurface. Two recesseson either side keep drill bits and

other small items from rolling offonto the floor.

As with the base of the cabinet,youll cut the top to size and cutout the U-shaped notch with a jig

saw. After a little sanding, you canround over all the edges and get

set up to rout the recesses.

Routing the Recesses. To cre-

ate the recesses on the top, I useda technique detailed in the lower

right box. I made a template with

an opening sized for the recess.To rout the recess, I used a bowl

and tray bit in a router with a large

auxiliary base. The bit createsrounded inside corners while leav-

ing a flat bottom.Youll want to rout in a clock-

wise direction with the bearing ofthe bit in contact with the inside

edge of the template. This createsthe outline of the recess. Then its

NOTE: ALL PARTSEXCEPT SHELF

RAILS MADE FROM#/4" PLYWOOD

ASSEMBLEDCUBBY

TOP/BOTTOM(7#/8" x 8")

Z

Y

X

W

V

W

SIDE(7#/8" x 21")

BACK(8" x 20!/2")

SHELF(7!/8" x 8")

Z

SHELF RAIL

(#/8" x 1!/4" - 7")

V


CL

6 FIGURE

SIDEVIEW !/4

!/4

BASE

DRAWER

CASE

BACK

CUBBIE

SIDE


b.


CABINET TOP(20!/4" x 21#/4" - #/4" Ply.)

AA

ROUTERRECESS (SEETINT BOX AT

RIGHT)

CENTER TOPOVER CABINET

!/2"-RAD.

1

7Router Template

FRONT VIEW

!/4

1!/4

a.

5!/8

BOWL ANDTRAY BIT

WASTE

ATTACH TEMPLATETO TOP WITH

DOUBLE-SIDEDTAPE

TEMPLATE6!/2

1!/4

1!/4

#/4"Ply.

CABINETTOP

You can make a template like theone shown below by assemblingthe four sides with pocket hole join-

ery. This technique allows you to sizethe opening perfectly for the task.

Then, rout out the waste.SIDE VIEW

#/8

a.

a simple mat-ter of removingthe remaining

waste with several passes of therouter across the recess.

Finish Up. Now youre readyto attach the top with screws from

inside the drawer cabinet andcubbies, as shown in Figure 7.Apply a clear finish before rolling

the cabinet into place and puttingit to good use.

TOP VIEW

5!/2

2!/2"-RAD.

CL

b.



8/12

An auxiliary table and an adjust-

able fence are the two bestimprovements you can make to abare bones drill press. I thought

the combo shown above was aperfect complement to the mobile

base and storage cabinet. The tableshown here has been in use for a

lot of years in my shop and is oneof my favorites.

Lets start with the table. Its

much larger than the metal drillpress table its attached to. So it

offers plenty of support whenworking with long pieces.

The table also lays the ground-work for an adjustable fence. To

allow positioning of the fencequickly and accurately, it slides

along two T-shaped slots in thetable. And a pair of flange boltsand knobs lock it in place.

TABLE

The table is made up of two lay-ers. For rigidity, theres a layer of

34"-thick plywood on the bottom

And a top layer of 14" hardboard creates a smooth, durable worksurface

Theres also another advantage

to this double-layered assemblyThe top layer has a removable

insert, as shown in Figure 8. Whenthis insert gets chewed up with use

simply slide it in or out to expose afresh drilling surface. Or replace iwith a new insert.

Base. I started on the table bymaking the plywood base (Figure

8). To form the wide portion othe T-slots, youll need to cut twodadoes in the base, as in Figure

8a. Later, each of these dadoes wilaccept the head of a flange bolt tha

guides the fence in the T-slot.

Install T-Nuts. The next step i

to install T-nuts that are used toattach the base to the metal drilpress table. To locate the hole

for these T-nuts, start by setting

the base on the drill press tableThen, after marking the locationof the holes from underneath the

BB

CC

NOTE: LOCATION OFT-NUTS VARIES WITHDRILL PRESS

TABLE TOP(12" x 13!/16" - !/4" Hdbd.)

TABLE BASE(12" x 30" - #/4" Ply.)

DD

INSERT(12" x 5" - !/4" Hdbd.)

FIRST:CUT DADOES

THIRD:GLUETOP PIECES

TO BASE

SECOND:COUNTERBORE T-NUTS

FLUSH WITH BASE

FOURTH:CUT T-SLOTS

8 FIGURE

TOP INSERT

BASE

15 BEVEL

%/16"- 18 T-NUT

COUNTERBORED

HOLE FITS T-NUT

FRONTVIEW

b.!/8

1!!/16

%/16

%/8

TOP

BASE

NOTE: T-SLOT IN TOP ISCENTERED OVER DADO IN BASE

FRONTVIEW

a.

drill press

Table & Fence




!/4"-20THREADED

KNOB

!/4"WASHER

!/4"-20 x 3 !/4"FLANGE BOLT

!/8" CHAMFERPROVIDES

DUST RELIEF

%/16"-18HEX BOLT

W/WASHER

10

table, drill counterbored throughholes and install the T-nuts.

Top. Now you can concentrateon the top of the table. It consistsof two top pieces and the insert, as

illustrated in Figure 8 on the pre-vious page and Figure 10 below.

Note: Its best to cut oversize top

pieces and trim them flush later.The insert is captured in a

dovetail-shaped opening in the topof the table. This opening is formed

by cutting a bevel on the insideedge of the top pieces, as shown

in Figure 8b on the previous page.To prevent the insert from binding,the beveled edges of the top pieces

need to be parallel to each other. Asimple solution is to use a spacer

between them when gluing on thepair of top pieces.

After trimming the edges flush,you can complete the second halfof the T-slots. This is just a matter

of cutting dadoes in the top pieces(Figure 8a, page 7).

Now all thats left is to cut aninsert to fit the opening in thetable. To do this, youll need to

bevel both edges of the insert.While youre at it, its a good idea

to make several extra inserts soyoull have a few spares.

FENCE

After attaching the drill press tablewith bolts, the next step is to add

the fence. The thing I like best

about this fence is you can adjust

it without having to coax first oneend and then the other. The reasonhas to do with a narrow slot in each

end of the fence. These slots formopenings for the flange bolts that

guide the fence.Why not just drill holes for

the bolts? After all, it would bequicker. The only problem is ifyou dont move both ends of the

fence the same amount whenmaking an adjustment, the bolts

would jam in the holes and causethe fence to bind. But the slotsprovide clearance for the bolts.

So even if both ends of the fencearent perfectly aligned, it still

slides nice and smooth.Fence Pieces. To make the fence,

start by cutting the two plywoodfence pieces, as illustrated in Fig-ure 9. The slot for the flange bolts

is formed by first cutting a pairof shallow dadoes in each piece,

then assembling these so thedadoes align and form a slot for

the bolt. The margin photo showshow to do this using a waxed key.

After this assembly dries, you canadd the hardboard face.

Notch. Before installing the

fence, I cut a semicircular notch inthe top edge. The details are shown

in Figure 9. This notch providesclearance for the chuck when usingshorter drill bits. I used a Forst-

ner bit to drill the notch and thensanded it smooth.

Attach Fence. Now all thatsleft is to attach the fence to the

table. After slipping the flangebolts in place, set the fence downover them. Tightening knobs on

the ends of the bolts locks thefence in place.

FRONT VIEW

FENCE

TOP

BASE

a.

EE

F F

30

2!/2

FIRST:CUT DADOESIN BOTH HALVESOF FENCE

SECOND:GLUE THETWO PIECES TOGETHER

FENCE(2!/2"x 30" - 1!/2" Ply.)

FENCE FACE(2!/2"x 30" - !/4" Hdbd.)

THIRD:ADD THEHARDBOARD FACE

FOURTH:CUTA SEMICIRCULAR

NOTCH IN THE TOP EDGE

CL

2!/4"-Dia.EE

9 FIGURE

TOP VIEW

!/8

1!/2 1

{Glueup Tip.

A waxed key

ensures prope

alignment whe

gluing up the

fence pieces.

SIDE VIEW

BASE

b.



Materials List

3-in-1

Drill Press Upgrade

Cutting Diagram

EEF

!/2" x 7!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.0 Bd. Ft.)

!/2" x 7!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.0 Bd. Ft.)

#/4" x 8" - 96" MAPLE (5.3 Bd. Ft.)

1!/4" x 5!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.5 Bd. Ft.)

L L L L M M M

MO O P P H

ZZ

ZZH

SSRR

B B C C

G

G

NOTE: PLANE PARTS 'Z' TO #/8" THICK

MOBILE BASE

A Base (1) 1512 x 2012- 34Ply.

B Cleat (2) 114x 3- 2012C Wheel Blocking (2) 114x 334- 2012

STORAGE CABINET

D Base Top (1) 1914x 21 - 34Ply.

E Sides (2) 34x 534- 21

F Front (1) 34x 534- 1934G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 334- 2012

H Skirts (2) 12 x 334- 2012I Top/Bottom (2) 1234 x 1914- 34Ply.

J Sides (2) 1234 x 21 - 34Ply.

K Back (1) 1914 x 2012- 34Ply.

L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 12x 214- 11

M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 12x 214- 1634N Sm. False Fronts (2) 1818x 21516- 34Ply.

O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 12x 478- 11

P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 12x 478- 1634

Q Med. False Front (1) 1818x 5716- 34Ply.

R Large Drawer Sides (2) 12x 714- 11

S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 12x 714- 1634T Large False Front (1) 1818x 778- 34Ply.

U Drawer Bottoms (4) 1012 x 1634- 14Hdbd.

V Tops/Bottoms (4) 738 x 8 - 34Ply.

W Sides (4) 738 x 21 - 34Ply.

X Backs (2) 8 x 2012- 34Ply.

Y Shelves (4) 718 x 8 - 34Ply.

Z Shelf Rails (4) 38 x 114- 7

AA Cabinet Top (1) 2014x 2134- 34Ply.

TABLE & FENCE

BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 34Ply.

CC Top (2) 12 x 13116- 14Hdbd.

DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 14Hdbd.

EE Fence (1) 212x 30 - 112Ply.

FF Fence Face (1) 212x 30 - 14Hdbd.

8) 3" Wheels

(4) 38" x 2" Lag Screws

(10) 14" Washers

(6) 14"-20 Star Knobs

(4) 14"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers

(4) 14"-20 x 412" Threaded Rod

(4) 14"-20 T-Nuts


(4) 14" x 214" Steel Rod

(4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Scre



(4) Sash Pulls

(2) 14"-20 x 314" Flange Bolts

(4) 516"-18 T-Nuts

(4) 516" Washers

(4) 516"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)



Cutting Diagram cont.

Q

48" x 24" - #/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD 48" x 48" - !/4" HARDBOARD

AA

48" x 96" - #/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD

K

I

I

J

J

D

A

EE

CC CC

FF

DD

EE

X

X

W

W

WY

V

Y

V

Y

V

U U U U

Y

V W

BB

TN N Q

GRAIN DIRECTION


12/12

Woodsmith Store

800-444-7527

McMaster-Carr

630-833-0300

mcmaster.com

Rockler

800-279-4441

rockler.com

MAILORDER

SOURCES

Project SourcesFor the 3-in-1 drill press upgrade, you

can go online toMcMaster-Carrto pur-

chase the 1"-dia. levelers (6103K65)

and the 3"-dia. wheels (2781T72). You

can find the 10" full extension slides

(61440) at Rockler.

3 in 1 drill press upgrade

Documents