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FutonCoffee Table

Double-DutyDouble-Duty

TM

page 1 of 10

DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.com

Whether or not you’ve built the previously published pieces in our futon set , you’ll enjoymaking and using this stylish coffee table. Naturally finished oak provides sturdy goodlooks, guaranteeing a lifetime of service.

FutonCoffee Table

TM

page 2 of 10

Start by forming the legs1 To form the 1fi"-thick legs (A), cut16 pieces of ‡"-thick oak to 3fi" wideby 17" long. (Since 1fi"-thick oak canbe difficult to find, we laminated twopieces of ‡" stock to form the 1fi"-thick legs.)2 With the edges and ends flush, glueand clamp two pieces face-to-face toform each of the eight legs. Cut orplane both edges of each leg for a 3ˇ"width (you’ll bevel-rip it to exact widthlater). Trim both ends of each leg forthe 16‹" finished length.3 Hold the eight leg sections togetherface-to-face with the ends flush. Usingthe Leg drawing for reference, use asquare to mark the mortise and groovelocations on the inside edge of eachleg. Use the square to verify that themarked mortises align.4 Use your drill press, fence, and a ‡"Forstner bit centered over the joint lineto drill ‡" holes Å" deep to removemost of the stock from each markedmortise as shown in the photo on page 3.Chisel the mortise corners square.

Bevel-rip the legs,and add the splines1 Tilt your tablesaw blade to 45°, andbevel-rip one edge (the edge oppositethe mortises) of each leg, cutting theleg to its final width of 3‹" whereshown on the Bevel-Rip the Legsdrawing on the next page.

3/4 x 71/4 x 96" Oak

CUTTINGDIAGRAM

3/4 x 91/4 x 60" Oak

J

J

3/4 x 71/4 x 72" Oak (2 needed)

A A

B BG H

3/4 x 91/4 x 96" Oak

JD D

E

J

3/4 x 71/4 x 96" Oak

1/4 x 24 x 48" Oak plywood

I

3/4 x 91/4 x 72" Oak

E

C

G H

C

E

J

J

K

A A

5/16 x 33/8 x 32" Wainscoting(10 needed)

F F F F

ˇ"

43fi"‡"‡"G cleats 2O

2‡"1fi"

2‡"1fi"E* bottom end rails 2LO17fi"

Part

LO 2B* top front & rails 41fi"

Bill of Materials

D*top end rails

LO 241fi"1fi" 2‡"

LO 217fi"

Qty

.

A* legs 16‹"1fi" 3‹" LO 8

T W LFinished Size

Mat

l.

1fi" 2‡"

C*btm. front & rails

F wainscoting 38OW

*Initially cut parts marked with an * oversized. Trimto finished size according to the instructions.

Materials Key: LO–laminated oak, OW–oak wainscoting, O–oak, OP–oak plywood, EO–edge-joined oak.

Supplies: #8ׇ" flathead wood screws, #8×1‹"flathead wood screws, #8×1‡" flathead woodscrews, 4–#8×2" roundhead wood screws with4–#8 flat washers, one right-hand lid support(Brainerd R1086XC) and one left-hand lid support(Brainerd L1086XC), 1fi" continuous brass hinge46fi" long with #6×fi" flathead brass wood screws,stain, clear finish.

3›" 6›"

18"‡"‡"H cleats 2O

43fi"19fi"‹"I bottom panel 1OP

48"24"‡"J* lid 1EO

19"1›"‡"K cleats 2O

TM

page 3 of 10

Waste

31/4"

Saw bladetilted to 45O

Fence

Tablesaw

BEVEL-RIP THE LEGS

A

13/16"

13/8"

Saw bladetilted to 45O

Fence

CUT THE SPLINE GROOVES

*Note: Groovewidth isdeterminedby thickness ofwainscoting.Measure yourwainscotingthickness beforecutting groove.

* 5/16" groove 3/8" deep centered on edge. Groove stops at both mortises.

11/2" 3/8"

2"

55/8"

2"

3/4"3/8"

3/8"

53/4"

11/4"

31/4"

161/4"

LEG

3/4 x 2"mortise13/16" deep

A

3/4 x 2"mortise13/16" deep

TM

page 4 of 10

2 Using the Spline detail accompanyingthe Exploded View drawing forreference, tilt your tablesaw blade 45°from center, and cut a ¤" spline slotfi" deep along the bevel-ripped edgeof each leg where shown in the Cutthe Spline Grooves drawing.3 Cut four pieces of ¤"-thick stock toÍ×16‹" long to form the foursplines. Next, glue and clamp themating pieces (A) for each leg asshown in the photo on the next page.Keep the leg ends flush and the miterjoints tight when gluing and clamping.

Machine the railsand wainscoting next1 To form the 1fi"-thick bottom andtop rails (B, C, D, E), cut ‡"-thickstock to the sizes listed in the Bill ofMaterials plus ‹" in width and fi" inlength.2 Glue and clamp the pieces togetherthe same way you laminated the legpieces earlier. Later, cut the rails (B,C, D, E) to the width and then thelength listed in the Bill of Materialsand shown on the Parts View drawing.3 Purchase enough oak wainscotingfor the front, back, and end frames (we

Remove most of the waste from the marked mortises with aForstner bit, using a fence and stops on your drillpress tablefor alignment.

purchased ours at a local home center).Measure the thickness of thewainscoting (ours measured ̌ " thick).Now, use a router and a straight bit tocut a ˇ" groove centered along theinside edge of each leg. Use a stop toend the groove at the mortises. Thegroove needs to be as wide as yourwainscoting is thick.4 Cut a ˇ" groove 1‹" deep centeredalong the bottom edge of the top rails(B, D). If you rout this groove, do itin several passes, raising the bit eachpass. Do not attempt to rout the 1‹"-deep groove in one pass, you mightsnap the bit. Then, cut or rout a ˇ"groove ›" deep centered along the topedge of the bottom rails (C, E).5 Using the dimensions on the Tenondetail on the Frame Assembly drawingand the rails (B, C, D, E) on the PartsView drawing, cut the tenons on eachend of each rail.6 Transfer the pattern from the PartsView drawing, mark the curved cutline,and cut and sand the bottom edge ofthe top rails (B, D) to shape.7 Crosscut the oak wainscoting (F) tolength. Finish-sand both surfaces ofeach piece.

OK, let’s assemblethe oak end frames1 Dry-clamp (no glue) the front andback frames (A, B, C,F) to check thefit. You’ll need to trim the outsideedge of each end piece of wainscoting.The outside edges should protrude intothe ›"-deep groove about ˇ". Markthe taper cutline on the bottom of eachleg so the top end of the taper stopsjust below the point where the bottomrail (C) meets the legs (A).2 Cut the tapers, and sand to removethe saw marks.3 Glue and clamp the two framestogether, checking for square. (We didnot glue the tongue-and-groove jointsbetween the individual wainscotingpieces, nor did we find it necessary toglue the wainscoting in the grooves.)4 To house the continuous hinge later,cut a ‡" rabbet ¤" deep along the topback edge of the back panel whereshown on the Exploded View drawingand accompanying Lid Hinge detail.5 Check the fit of the remaining railsand wainscoting (D, E, F) between theassembled front and back frames. Trimthe outside edge of each end piece ofwainscoting, and then glue and clampthe pieces in place.6 Cut the cleats (G, H) to size. Drillcountersunk mounting holes, and glueand screw them in place flush with thebottom edge of the bottom rails(C, E).7 Measure the opening, and cut the‹" plywood bottom (I) to size. Drillmounting holes along the edges, fit itin place, drill pilot holes into the cleats,and screw the bottom (I) in place.

Now, let’s make the lid1 Using the straightest and flattestboards available, edge-join enoughstock to form a lid blank measuring25×49" for the lid (J). To help alignthe boards, you may want to spline orbiscuit-join the mating edges of eachboard.2 Keeping the boards flat, glue andclamp them together, edge-to-edge.Double-check the clamp-up with astraightedge to verify flatness, andreclamp if necessary.

Produced by Marlen KemmetProject Design: Chuck Hedlund·Written by: Larry JohnstonIllustrations: Kim Downing, Lorna JohnsonGraphic Design: Jamie Downing©COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION 1998

TM

page 5 of 10

Use handscrew clamps to hold the splined leg pieces together at a right angle until the glue dries.

3 Trim the lid (J) to finished size, androut a ¤" round-over along all edges.Sand the lid smooth.4 Cut the cleats (K) to size. Miter-cuta 30° chamfer at each end. Drill themounting holes and form the slots ineach cleat where shown on the PartsView drawing. Drill the pilot holes,and screw the cleats to the bottom sideof the lid. Now, back the screw off ineach slot about a half-turn. This allowsthe lid to expand and contract withseasonal changes in humidity.

5 Attach the lid to the base with thecontinuous hinge and lid supportswhere shown on the Exploded Viewdrawing and accompanying Lid Hingeand Lid Support details.

Sand, stain, finish,and assemble1 Remove the top from the table base.Then, mask off the hinge or remove itfrom the base and top. Remove the lidsupports. Finish-sand the table baseand top.

2 Stain if desired (we left ours natural),and apply a clear finish (we appliedseveral coats of satin polyurethane,rubbing between coats with Scotch-Brite pads).3 Reattach the hinge connecting thetop to the base. Screw the lid supportsback in place.¿

TM

page 6 of 10

and

and

*5/16" groove 3/8" deep

3/4 x 2"mortises13/16" deep

165/8" for End Panels405/8" for Front and Back Panels

63/8"

*5/16" groove 11/4" deep

16" for End Panels40" for Front and Back Panels

Mitered corner

3/4 x 2" tenon3/4" long

DB

FRAMEASSEMBLY

161/4"

TENONDETAIL

2"

3/8"

3/4 x 2" tenon3/4" long

*5/16" groove 3/8" deep centered on edge

Joint line

*Note: Groove for wainscoting inupper rails and is 11/4" deep.

AA

A

A

E

F

DB

3/8"3/4"

3/4"

3/8"

3/8"

5/16"23/4"

11/2"

C

C

Joint linecentered

alongedge

*Note: Groove width is determined by thickness of wainscoting. Measure your wainscoting thickness before cutting groove.

J

I

G

F

E

D

C

B

A

H

A

A

D

B

A

A

A

B

C

A

A

E

D

F

F

F

HG

A

A

J

K

A

AF D

K

K

K

J

TM

page 7 of 10

431/2"

#6 x 1/2" F.H.wood screws

11/2 x 461/2" brasscontinuous hinge

9/16"

SPLINEDETAIL

(TOP VIEW)

1/8 x 15/16" spline161/4" long

1/8" spline groove 1/2" deep into each leg

45O miter

LIDSUPPORTDETAIL

48"

4"

4"

24"

3/4"

1/8" round-over along alledges of top

#8 x 13/4" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 2" R.H. wood screw

#8 flat washer

7/64" pilot hole 1/2" deep

Lid support

1/8" spline grooves 1/2" deep

1/8 x 15/16" spline161/4" long

3/32" pilot hole1/2" deep

3/4" rabbet 1/8" deepalong back edge

Lid support

Cleats are flush withbottom edge of lower rails.

#8 x 3/4" F.H.wood screw

#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws

5/32" hole,countersunk

191/2"

461/2"

1/8 x 15/16" spline161/4" long

45O miterEXPLODED VIEW

LIDHINGEDETAIL

1/8"

3/4"3/4" rabbet1/8" deepalong backedge

Lid

11/2" brasscontinuous hinge

461/2" long

#6 x 1/2" F.H.brass wood

screw

41/2"

11/16"

Lid support

5"

21/2"

5"

3/4"

1/8"

3/4"

27/8"

5/32" slot1/2" long

#8 x 2" R.H.wood screw

#8 flat washer

TM

page 8 of 10

DB

and

EC

C ED17

1 /2"

for

B41

1 /2"

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3 /8"

3 /8"

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3 /4"

171 /

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1 /2"

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3 /8"

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2"23

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TOP

RA

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and

BO

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M R

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S

PAR

TS

VIE

W

TM

page 9 of 10

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TM

page 10 of 10

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