3d printer workshop december 2016
TRANSCRIPT
3D PRINTER WORKSHOPBitraf, Dec 12 2016
Jens Chr Brynildsen @jenschr / jenschr på gmail
Jens Chr Brynildsen / @jenschr
bitraf.no
OVERVIEW• How does our printers work?
• What software should you download?
• Printing workflow
• Finding 3D models online
• How to solve common problems
• ABS printing
• How to make your own 3D models
HOW DOES OUR PRINTERS WORK?
180-250C
ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL
ULTIMAKER 2
WHY WE LIKE ULTIMAKER?
• Very solid construction / high speed printing
• They are fully Open Source (hardware)
• They actively supports CURA (Open Source software)
• They don’t launch a new model just to add a feature
• They sell kits that let owners of old models upgrade to the most recent tech
FRAME
ON / OFF
WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES -ALL 3D PRINTERS ARE TURNED OFF.
LONG PRINT? STAY AND READ A BOOK...
4 AXIS
X & Y AXIS
Z-AXIS
ENDSTOPS
BUILD PLATFORM
PLASTIC FEEDING
HOTEND
EXTRUDER
BOWDEN TUBE
ULTICONTROLLER
OTHER PRINTERS?
• All printers will have similar features/equipment
• All you learn today will apply to other machines, but the physical layout may be different
• Open Source printers encourage you to learn & print
• Closed Source printers encourage you to print
• Bitraf encourages Open Source
WHAT SOFTWARE SHOULD YOU DOWNLOAD?
FOR ALL USERS
Download Curahttp://software.ultimaker.com
(Windows, Mac, Linux)
wifi password: grimbadgerassault
CURA
PLASTICS
PLA
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
OTHER PLASTICS
• PLA/ABS with additives
• PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) / XT
• Nylon / PC (Polycarbonate) / HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
• NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FlexiFil, Rubber-like
• Woodfill/Copperfill, Laywood/Laybrick/BendLay
• Poro-Lay (porous, fibrous, foam, felt, jelly consistency)
• PVA (AquaSolve), thermocromatic
FILAMENT TIPS• We have some donated plastic here to play with. YMMV
• The “cheap plastic” is often expensive if time is a cost
• Buy your own plastic to learn what you are printing with
• Buying from a renowned vendor will save you time and grief (use Ultimaker, Faberdashery, DiamondAge, Ultimachine, GRFF or Protoparadigm)
• Colorfabb’s PLA/PHA mixture can be difficult to work with unless you only print with that one plastic. It’s more sticky...
Ball Bearing in filament? Image by RichRap, http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.html
ALTERNATE SOFTWARE
• Check out Slicer http://slic3r.org/(for Windows, Mac & Linux)
• Simplify3D https://www.simplify3d.com/
• Repetier Host for direct control of the printer http://www.repetier.com/download/
• Kisslicer & Netfabb may be interesting too
PRINTING WORKFLOW
WORKFLOW
1. Find / make model
2. Slice model & save to SD
3. Prepare the printer
4. Start printing!
1. FIND A MODEL
• Thingiverse.com
• Youmagine.com
• Github
Read more at http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.html
2. SLICE THE MODEL
• Cura
• Slicer
• Kisslicer
• Netfabb
• Skeinforge / RepG
CURA
3. PREPARE THE PRINTER(All steps may not be required)
3. PREPARE THE PRINTERPrepare the build surface
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERInserting filament & priming
PREPARE THE PRINTERUse Ulticontroller to heat the nozzle
1. Push Encoder2. Select “Control”3. Select “Nozzle”4. Set to 210C
Image by Ultimaker
PREPARE THE PRINTERWhen heated to 210C, open extruder latch
PREPARE THE PRINTEROpen extruder drive
PREPARE THE PRINTERInsert the filament
Insert filament all the waythrough the bowden tube. Push until it reachesthe extruder.
PREPARE THE PRINTERClose and prime the extruder
Lock the extruder & thenturn the big extruder gearuntil you see plastic coming out of the nozzle.
4. START PRINTING
1. Insert SD card2. Push Encoder3. Select “Print from SD”4. Scroll to the file & select
WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS
ARE TURNED OFF.
NO EXCEPTIONS!
Image from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,375707
Image from http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/13/near-disaster-while-3d-printing
Image from https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/tOx2ED07F9A/YdNPOL8I8NwJ
PRINTING RULES1.You break it, you fix it
2.Keep the space clean. Don’t leave a mess.
3.For good prints - buy your own quality plastic. Keep it in a bin in the Lab.
4.No unattended printing. When the last person leaves - all 3D printers are turned off along with all other equipment.
PRINTING BREAK...
HOW TO SOLVE COMMON PROBLEMS
SWITCHING PLASTICS
• Feed plastic manually until new color shows
• Keep extruding for a while or do a test print
• Old colors will keep contaminating your print until you got it all out
• Slightly hotter temp may help cleaning out the old, but never go above 250C!
FLOW PROBLEMSCopper nozzle
Aluminium heater block
Peek tube
PTFE insert (White plastic)
COLD-PULL1. Heat the printer and remove the plastic
2. Remove blue horseshoe-clip
3. Loosen the two long screws that holds down the black plastic piece
4. Carefully push down on the PushFit and pull the tube out
5. Heat the printer to 220C
6. Cut off a piece of plastic and insert it into the hotend. Push so plastic runs through.
7. With the plastic inserted, cool the printer down to 70C for PLA, 90C for PET or Nylon
8. Place the print-head in a corner so the rods don’t bend. With solid support, use pliers to pull out the now cooled piece of filament. Inspect the end of the filament you just pulled out. If it has contaminations, go to step 5 and repeat until clean
GREAT HELP-SITE!
If you leave the extruderhot for a long time
you’ll create one of themost time-consumingproblems for yourself.
A plug forms here sincethe heat creeps up the
brown PEEK piece.
When you try topush warm plastic into
a tube, it expandsand creates a plug...
CLOGGED ABOVE HOTEND
IF YOU CAN’T FIX IT?Always ask for help and if it can’t be fixed - leave a note so
others know it’s not in working order!
ABS PRINTING
DIFFERENCES
• Heated build platform
• Kapton or PET tape
• UHU glue stick
• No print-fan
• Enclosure
PREVENTING WARPING
WARPING
POST-TREATMENT
POST-TREATMENT
QUESTIONS?