3nd walk.pdf

8/12/2019 3nd Walk.pdf

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/3nd-walkpdf 1/20

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The building of the Ottoman Eank in Thessaloniki9 in the early => th century9 nowadays home to theThessaloniki State Fonservatoire.



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The Nativity. Mosaic from the church of Aghioi Apostoloi.



102



103

From the PORT MARKET

to AGHIOU DIMITRIOU Street,

the WESTERN WALLS

and the VARDARI FORT

3rd WALK

Ladadika Quarter (port market) (1)

The area from Koundouriotou Street up to Olympou Diamanti Street

(boundary with the Frankish quarter), and from the former Hiou Street

to Limnou Street, was known during the period of Turkish rule as

Istirá, which means ‘market’. Today the area bounded by the streets

Koundourioti, Axiou, Averof, Ionos Dragoumi, Edessis, V. Hugo, Tsi-

miski and Salaminos is what has remained of the port market dis-

trict; it is known as the Ladadika Quarter and has been designated a

protected historic site. In the years of Turkish rule, the same district

occupied the area which had once been the site of the Byzantine portof Constantine the Great, but which had by then been !lled in and

become part of the shore. It was the centre of the city’s wholesale trade

for many centuries, dealing mainly in oil, spices and other commodi-

ties from Egypt, while from the 18th century onwards it became the

centre of the grain trade. It retained its distinct character until about

1866, when the port and railway station districts were remodelled and

combined and the sea wall was demolished. After the •re of 1856, work

began on construction of the Ladadika and part of Frangon Street. It

was at this time that the very characteristic new Frankish warehouses

were built, with their dark brick and Flemish roofs. After 1982, when

the construction of the new port began, the market was extended to the

area of the old mole, which was •lled in. It was in these areas recov-

ered from the water that the buildings in the eclectic style were built,

still to be seen on Averof, Axiou and Votsi Streets. The catastrophic

•re of 1917, which destroyed most of the centre of the city, to the east

of the Istirá market and the Frankish quarter, spared this part of the

market. But a new threat materialized in the shape of the urban plan

implemented in 1925 and the subsequent decades, particularly with

the widening of Tsimiski and Salaminos Streets. Attempts to save the

historic character of the Ladadika quarter began in 1985, when it was

declared a protected site of historical interest.



104

The buildings of the historic banks: Ethniki, Ellados and Ioniki-

Laiki (now Alpha Bank) (2)

Gathered close together in the !nancial and commercial centre of the

city (on Tsimiski, Dragoumi and Mitropoleos Sts.), these buildings com-

bine imposing and innovative architecture with the policy and ideology

of the !nancial organizations they represent. The main of!ces of the

Ethniki Bank and the Bank of Greece (Ellados) form a single building

complex, constructed in 1928 on behalf of Ethniki Bank by architects

A. Valvis and I. Isigonis. This is a characteristic example of inter-war

eclecticism. Characteristic features of the facades are the propylon in

the Doric order on Tsimiski Street and the tall columns with their Cor-

inthian capitals which support a projecting cornice on Dragoumi and

Mitropoleos Streets. Inside, the building is divided into two separate sec-

tions, one for each banking organization. In both sections, the main

feature is the central trading area, which, in the Bank of Greece section,

has retained its original roo!ng, a cylindrical metal dome. What wasoriginally a branch of the Ioniki Bank (now Alpha Bank), founded in the

city in 1916, was housed in the existing building owned by the bank,

• !" #$%&%'(!" )*& " $"$+,-!+ !" ('./!" 0 *.'1,02View of the Ladadika district3 after the restoration of the area’s buildings2

3rd WALK: FROM THE PORT MARKET



105

constructed in 1929 to plans by architect M. Lykoudis. Its architecture

is eclectic in inspiration, with references to various ancient orders, while

the interior is predominantly art nouveau in style.

Bank of Thessaloniki (Stoa Malakopi) on Chrimatistiriou Square (3)

The Bank of Thessaloniki was founded in 1888 by the Allatini brothers,

with a stake held by the Lander Bank of Vienna. In 1909, its admin-

istration was transferred to Constantinople. The Thessaloniki branch

remained operational until 1940. The building, known as Stoa Malakopi,

is located in the centre of the old Frankish quarter. It was constructed in

1906-1907, on the grounds of the old Allatini mansion. This two-storey

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The Catholic

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Thessaloniki,in a postcard of

the early 34 th century5

TO AGHIOU DIMITRIOU STREET, THE WESTERN WALLS AND THE VARDARI FORT



106

building, designed by architect Vitalliano Poselli, with its two facades

with unimpeded views of Chrimatistiriou Square and Vilara Street, was

organized around a central space in the full height of the building and lit

through a metal pitched roof. The composition of features on the main

façade is of particular interest and based on well-known Renaissance

models. Finally, the clock in the centre of the pediment stopped at the

moment of the major earthquake of 20th June 1978.

Catholic church (4)

In 1742, the city’s !rst Catholic parish church was established by Jesu-

its, who directed the mission until 1773. In 1783, they were succeeded by

the Lazarist order. The church and adjoining consulate were destroyed

in the !re of 1839, reconstructed in 1867 and destroyed again in the

!re of 1897. Construction of the present church, a three-aisled basilica,

began in the same year and was completed in 1900 to plans by Vitaliano

Poselli, on the foundations of the earlier church. It suffered severe dam-age from bombardment in the last war.

• !" !# $ %&'()&#$ *+'',- .$ !#,!& , (&!/&#/ $ 19203The historic building of Vienni Hotel- constructed in the 1920’s3




107

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The western tower of the Vardari Fort.




108

Ottoman Bank (formerly the Frangon National Insurance Fund of!ce,

now the State Conservatoire) (5)

The present building was constructed after 1903, on the site of the man-

sion of Jek Abbott. The engineers Barouh and Amar designed the new

building, retaining the façade grid of the earlier building. Repairs and

additions were made in line with plans by engineers Pleyber (1921) and

Modiano (1924). The main feature in the layout of the building is the in-

ternal atrium, which appears closed on the ground !oor, with a vaulted

glass roof. Its style is neo-baroque with clear French in!uences.

Delasalle complex (6)

The French-Hellenic college (Delasalle St. Michel), founded in 1888, was

originally housed in the large residence of the Sarno family on Frangon

St, purchased in 1895. In 1926, this house was demolished and the

new building constructed. It consists of two wings meeting at a right

angle, where a tower-like construction rises to form the monumentalentrance. The third !oor is a subsequent addition. The architecture is

predominantly neo-Byzantine in style. The building now houses part of

the Thessaloniki court system.

Vardari Fort (Top Hane ) (7)

The fort, located at the south-western corner of the city wall system, was

constructed in 1546 by Sultan Suleiman the Magni"cent (1520-1566) in

order to protect the western !ank of the port. The system of forti"cations

around the city had included on its eastern side part of the western early

Christian and Byzantine walls. The rectangular tower at its eastern edgeis also known as the Tower of the Relief. This section of the wall has been

identi"ed with the Tzerebulon mentioned in Byzantine sources of the

15th century, i.e. the breakwater which closed off on the south-western

side the arti"cial harbour constructed by Constantine the Great in 322-

23. At that time, the sea came up almost to the level of where Frangon

Street lies in the modern city. The Byzantine port gradually silted up

during the period of Turkish rule, creating the area where the Istira mar-

ket later developed (see above under Ladadika). A Turkish report of 1733

refers to it under the names Top-hane (arsenal tower) and Tamba-hane

(tanners’ tower). The tower was designed to allow the use of artillery and

must have formed part of a programme to modernize the city’s forti"ca-

tions. Various repair and consolidation work was carried out later, the

most important project being the one of 1741, when the southern part

of the wall facing inwards was broadened by 18 metres, creating an em-

bankment on which three powder magazines were constructed.

Hotel Vienni (8)

The building, which belonged to K. Manolas, was constructed in 1925 to

plans by architect G. Kambanellos, at the beginning of Egnatia Street,

a neighbourhood which – serving as the gateway to the city from the

west – was already beginning to enjoy commercial expansion as early asthe 1880’s. The façade shows the in!uence of the eclectic trends of the




109

period, incorporated within the general principles of organization of a

neoclassical building.

The Early Christian and Byzantine Wall (on the western side) (9)

This section of wall has been uncovered along the axis running from the

Vardari Fort to Dimokratias Square (Vardari), where the city’s main gate

to the west the Golden Gate, once stood. This was the starting point for

the main road artery of Thessaloniki, the Roman Via Regia or Byzantine

Leophoros (avenue), which crossed the city below the level of the modern

Egnatia Street. The walls continue beyond Dimokratias Square, along

Eirinis Street and as far as Aghiou Dimitriou Street, along the axis of

which there was another gate in the western walls, the Lytaia Gate.

Pa!a Hamami [Phoenix Baths] (10)

At the junction of Zefyron, Kalvou and P. Karatza Streets, stands

the Turkish bathhouse founded by Cezeri Kasim Pa!a, Sancakbey of Thessaloniki in around 1520-1530, the same man who converted the

Church of Aghion Apostolon into a mosque. The baths, known to the

Turks as Pa!a Hamami, were originally just for men, but later con-

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The Lytaia Gate of the western wall of Thessaloniki/ originally located at the intersection withAghiou Dimitriou Street/ in a postcard of the early => th century?




110

verted to incorporate facilities for women. They remained in use until

1981.

Church of the Aghioi Apostoloi (11)

The church, formerly the catholicon of a monastery, owes its present

name to the popular belief that it was covered with twelve domes symbol-

izing the twelve apostles. Yet in all likelihood it was dedicated to the Vir-

gin, as the selection of the subjects of its wall paintings would suggest.

The monastery was founded with funds provided by Patriarch Niphon I,

between 1310 and 1314, while a second founder Paul, a monk and dis-

ciple of Niphon, is also mentioned. Between 1520 and 1530, the church

was converted into a mosque by Cezeri Kasim Pa!a, whose name it ac-

quired. It was also known as the So"uk Su Mosque (cold water mosque)

from the cold water in an adjacent water cistern.

All that remains of the monastery complex today are the catholicon,

the pillar to the south-west and the cistern to the north-west. The im-portance of the patriarchal foundation is evidenced not only by the size

of the grounds, but also by the splendour of the architecture and its

internal decoration, as well as by the size and care lavished on the other

structures. The catholicon belongs to the type of complex, four-column,

cruciform, inscribed churches with narthex and a peristoon on three

sides. The building’s proportions are exceptionally harmonious and the

exterior wall surfaces present a rich variety of arches, conches and brick

pilasters, while the ceramic decoration, especially on the eastern side, is

extremely rich. The elegance of the church was enhanced by the original

curved cornice, which surrounded its cubic base, following the undu-lations of the arches. At some point during the years of Turkish rule,

this was replaced by the current straight pediment. At the same time,

the church underwent other modi#cations, chief among them being the

building up of the trilobed openings in the inner narthex and the demoli-

tion of the belfry in front of the western entrance.

Even in its current fragmented state, the mosaic decoration is magni#-

cent. It was carried out with funds made available by Patriarch Niphon.

The mosaics of the Apostles, among the last examples of this kind of

decoration in Byzantium, are, together with their counterparts in the

Hora and Pammakaristo Monasteries in Constantinople, among the #n-

est creations of the Palaeologan period. Of equally high quality are the

wall paintings added to the decoration of the catholicon by Abbot Paul,

following the iconographic programme laid down the Patriarch Niphon.

Following the recent discovery of the wall paintings of the catholicon, the

decoration of the church has been dated to the end of the second decade

of the 14th century.




111

“• !"”, #"$%&'( ' )*' +-(.'/The Resurrection, a mosaic from the Aghioi Apostoloi Church/

3nd walk.pdf

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