FLOODING IN GARDENSHOW TO COPE WITH EXCESS WATER IN THE GARDEN

Two million homes in England and Walesare at risk of flooding from rivers or thesea.The Environment Agency isresponsible for flood defence, warningand communications to the people livingin these properties.

You can find out if you are at risk bycalling Floodline on 0845 988 1188 orvisiting the Environment Agency’s websiteat www.environment-agency.gov.uk/flood.

If your home is at risk, there are simplesteps you can take to lessen the distressand expense it may cause to you andyour family. Even if your home itself is not flooded, floodwater can cause havoc inthe garden, destroying years of dedicated effort and costly planting and landscaping.This guide shows how you can plan your garden to withstand the worst ravages offlooding and how to restore it if the worst happens.

In England and Wales the Environment Agency operates a flood warning service inareas at risk of flooding from rivers or the sea. If flooding is forecast, warnings are issuedthrough the media or direct to people at home or work using a set of foureasily recognised codes.

Flooding possible. Be aware! Be prepared! Watch out!

Flooding expected affecting homes, businesses and main roads.Act now!

Severe flooding expected. Imminent danger to life andproperty.Act now!

An all-clear will be issued when flood watches orwarnings are no longer in force. Floodwater levelsreceding. Check all is safe to return. Seek advice.

FLOODING. You can’t always prevent it, you can prepare for it

IS YOUR GARDEN THREATENED BY FLOODS?

CONTENTSPreparing for a f lood 2

If floods are imminent 4

After a flood 5

Restoring your garden 6

What to do with your plants 7

Minimising future flood damage 8

Flood-resistant planting 10

Vegetables, lawns and wildlife 12

The Environment Agency and Gardening Which? 13

PREPARING FOR A FLOOD

WHY FLOODING IS A PROBLEMIn autumn 2000, Britain experienced someof the heaviest rainfall in years, leading tosevere and widespread flooding.A furtheroutbreak of flooding in autumn 2001 hadeven more impact than the previous year’sfloods in some areas.

In the worst affected places, gardens werecompletely devastated by the direct impactof the floods; others became overgrownand neglected as people moved out oftheir homes for months. Frequently,gardens were used as temporary parkingspaces for caravans housing flood victims.Long after the water levels subsided,gardeners found that plants had suffereddamage from the storms and waterlogging.

Scientists are predicting that climatechange will lead to more frequent floodsin the future.Although flooding is a naturalevent that can’t be prevented, you can beprepared for it. Follow the advice in thisbooklet to protect the plants and hardlandscaping in your garden when floodsare forecast, and take action now toreduce further damage if you live ina flood risk area.After the floods havepassed, use our guide to help you returnyour garden to its former glory.

This booklet explains how to cope withunexpected flooding from overflowingrivers or canals, run-off from agriculturalor industrial land, and water from the seaor estuaries reaching low-lying coastalareas. Some of the advice in the section ondrainage applies equally well to situationswhere there is groundwater flooding(when an already high water table inpoorly draining soil rises above groundlevel following heavy rainfall).

BEFORE A FLOOD● Call Floodline on 0845 988 1188 for

free information, including a factsheetpack, a Flood Directory about thewarning service in your area anda handy guide on how to flood-proofyour home.

● Keep a list of useful telephone numbersto hand – your local authority,emergency services, insurance companyand Floodline.

● Talk to your family, friends andneighbours about what you would do,and prepare a flood plan together.Discuss what you might need in theevent of a flood.

● Make up a flood kit. Include a torch,blankets, a portable radio, importantpersonal documents stored in closedpolythene bags and waterproof clothingincluding rubber gloves and boots. Storethe kit in a place safe from floodwater.

● Buy or make sandbags to block patioand garden doors and airbricks.

INSURANCEYour household insurance policy willusually cover damage to outbuildings,garages and sheds. It does not generallycover storm or flood damage to gates,fences, hedges, garden plants, containersor ornaments unless you have taken outan extension to your household policy.

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USING SANDBAGS & FLOODBOARDSKeep a stock of unfilled hessian or plasticsandbags, sand, a shovel, bricks, blocks ofwood, nails and a saw in the shed. In anemergency, make sandbags from oldpillowcases, empty compost bags orblack plastic sacks.These can be filledwith sand or earth.● Two people are needed to fill sandbags:

one to hold the bag open, one to fill.Wear gloves when handling sand, as itis abrasive.Take care when liftingheavy bags.

● Protect large areas of sheet glass inpatio doors by placing sandbags,

plywood or metal sheeting outsidedoors and window frames.Weak ordamaged banks and retaining walls canbe shored up with sandbags.

● Greenhouse doors can also beprotected with floodboards. Even ifyou cannot create a complete seal,the boards will reduce the amountof floodwater entering the building.

● After the flood has passed, removesandbags and debris piled up againstairbricks in buildings to allow freeair circulation.

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POSITIONING

SANDBAGS

USING BOARDS TO

PREVENT FLOODWATER

ENTRY TO PROPERTY

AND GARDENS

HINGED PANEL

ACROSS AN

ENTRANCE

SLIDING PANEL

ACROSS AN

ENTRANCE

Direction of flow

Tuck flaps under Board

Board

Board

Sealingcompound

Frame Frame

IN THE GARDEN● Unplug any exterior electrical

connections such as outdoor lightingand pond pumps and filters. Direct-drive pumps can remain submerged inwater but bring low-level equipmentindoors if possible.

● Check that non-return valves arefitted on outdoor taps.Turn off thewater supply to the garden.

● Weigh down manhole covers withsandbags or heavy objects. If they liftup during a flood, the drain may be leftopen which could create a hazard.

● Move free-standing items such as pots,dustbins, rotary driers, statues,obelisks, furniture and play equipmentto a sheltered location or weigh themdown in situ with sandbags.

● Move small containers to higher ground,or onto strong, stable structures suchas a brick-built barbecue, heavy picnictable or built-in greenhouse staging.

● Tie in climbing plants.● Check tree ties are secure on newly

planted trees.● Anchor fruit cages and coldframes

against storm damage or dismantlethem if time permits.Take up clochesand bean supports and store them ina safe place.

● Take valuable objects (or those ofsentimental value) indoors, or movethem to a higher place in the garden.Move treasured border plants to raisedbeds, plant stands or heavy containers.

● Peg netting securely over ponds to saveplants and fish from being swept away.

SHED AND GREENHOUSE● Move powered machinery indoors or

raise it on pallets.● Empty petrol mowers. Keep all

paperwork relating to machineryfiled indoors.

● Lock gardening tools away.● Remove any chemicals, fertilisers,

pesticides, oils, paints and petrol andlock them away safely indoors. If leftoutside, they could be swept into thefloodwater and pollute watercourses.

● Close off the flow valves on gascylinders in the greenhouse and unplugall electrical equipment. Remove low-level electric heaters and grow-lights.

● Check that wind braces and anchorson the greenhouse are secure andclose vents and windows. Protectgreenhouse bases with sandbags.

● Move small containers, bags of compost,watering cans etc, onto greenhousebenching. Harvest any crops that can beripened indoors, such as tomatoes.

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IF FLOODS ARE IMMINENT

Mark the high water level on outsidewalls for reference.This will also act asa reminder when replanting. If you aremaking an insurance claim, do not throwanything away until you have been toldthat you may. If in doubt, take photographsor video footage of damaged items.

Water levels may fluctuate for severalweeks, depending on rainfall and drainageconditions. Check weather reports and callFloodline on 0845 988 1188 for the latestflood warnings.Wait to start repairs untilyou are sure that the floods are over.

HEALTH AND SAFETYWear rubber boots and disposable rubbergloves when working outside, asfloodwater may be polluted with oil,chemicals, and untreated sewage. Coverany open wounds with waterproofplasters. If you are not inoculated againsttetanus, contact your local health centre.

Keep off flooded lawns and borders as faras possible. Keep out of fast-flowing wateror deep still water, and be aware thatstanding water may contain mud, brokenglass or lumps of debris.Young children,pregnant women, the elderly and anyonewith a weakened immune system shouldstay away from flooded areas altogether.

If crossing standing water, move slowlyand carefully and use a stick to check forholes, dislodged manhole covers and sharpobjects. Once water levels have returnedto normal, lawns, paths and patios mayremain slippery from sediment. Give hardsurfaces a thorough hose down and allowthem to dry before resuming normal use.

Check outdoor buildings and structures byexamining roofs, walls, fencing, doors andwindows for any changes. Flooding mayalso have damaged soil-retaining walls and

eroded banks or terracing.You may needto contact a professional who can assessany structural damage.

Limit the time spent working in damp,wooden buildings, as moulds can worsenchest complaints.Although the risk ofillness is minimal, if you accidentallyswallow floodwater and feel unwell,contact your doctor.

You may find mice or rats, stray cats ordogs, or homeless wildlife sheltering inyour garden after a flood. Contact yourlocal authority’s pest control officer ordog warden, the RSPCA, or your localWildlife Trust if you need help.

ELECTRICITYFollowing a flood, turn off the electricitysupply to the garden. Do not use anyappliance that has been affected until it,and the power supply, have been checkedout by a competent electrician.

WASTE COLLECTIONFlood debris and other waste is classifiedas ‘controlled waste’ as it may containsmall amounts of chemicals, oil, solventsand sewage. Local authorities sometimesprovide skips for the disposal of floodwaste, or can give advice on where toget them. Otherwise, specialist wastemanagement firms can advise (seeYellow Pages or www.yell.com).

Dispose of wet sandbags, affected bags ofcompost and fertiliser, sand from children’ssand pits and bark chippings covering playareas. Clear mud and leaves blockingdrains and gutters.

If a lot of mud or silt has piled up on bothsides of a wall, remove it gradually fromboth sides to avoid overloading one side,which could cause damage.

AFTER A FLOOD

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BRICK AND WOODEN STRUCTURESHose down and scrub mud fromrendered and brick walls. Brick or blockwalls will gradually dry out naturally,though this may take many months.Efflorescence, a white bloom, is causedby soluble salts within the clay beingtransported to the surface of wet bricks:it will stop appearing when the wall hasdried and can then be removed witha bristle brush. Green algae and mosscan be removed with a stiff brush andthe wall washed down with disinfectant.

Brickwork, especially old bricks, maysuffer damage from the pressure of thefloodwater. In particular, if a hard frostfollows a flood, bricks may shrink or crackas they dry. Make a note of any crackingand fill it once the brick has completelydried out, then repoint the brickwork.More serious cracking and buckling mayhave weakened the wall and damagedparts should be repaired or, if necessary,rebuilt by a reliable contractor.

Fences, gates, pergolas and other woodenstructures can suffer damage if inprolonged contact with water. Check forloose planks, panels and rotting posts andreplace them with wood that has beenpressure-treated with timber preservative.

In greenhouses and outbuildings, woodenwindow frames may jam when wet andwarp as they dry.This may lead to flakingpaint. Check for signs of rot, and repairand treat the timber. Once dry, the framescan be repainted. Open vents in thegreenhouse once the weather improvesand remove and destroy any damaged ordiseased pot plants.Wash down glass andbenching with disinfectant.

Check wooden furniture and playequipment for loose nails, rot and fungal

growths. Clean with detergent, and leaveto dry, then treat with a fungal inhibitor.

SOIL AND BORDERSAs the floods recede, make a note oflow-lying areas in the garden to help withreplanning later. If you have hired a pumpto clear water from your house, checkwhether you can use it out of doors as itwill greatly speed up the drainage process.

Sodden soil can lead to shallow rooting,making plants unstable and prone todrought in dry spells. It also encouragesslugs and snails and fungal diseases suchas phytophthora, which kills plant roots.Deep digging can loosen soil compactedby flooding, but wait until it dries out.Turn over the earth to the depth of yourspade and avoid bringing heavy subsoil tothe surface.Try not to tread directly onsodden soil.Where possible, work fromboards to avoid compaction, or placestepping stones among borders.

There is nothing practical you cando to counteract the effects of salt leftby seawater flooding, though it willdisperse in time. Precious plants canbe lifted, the soil washed off, thenreplanted in containers. Raised bedsmade from uncontaminated soil area longer-term solution.

PONDSIn general, most aquatic life can cope withfreshwater flooding. Depending on thelocation, you may well find that fish havenot swum away, but remained in theirflooded pond, surviving strong currentsby burrowing into the mud. Sea water ismore likely to cause fatalities among thefish population. Most aquatic plants,however, are dormant in autumn andwinter, and should recover by thefollowing spring.

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RESTORING YOUR GARDEN

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WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR PLANTSPERENNIALSMost plants will survive a few days’immersion in water, but the roots needoxygen and will begin to die if left in cold,waterlogged soil, especially if you havebeen flooded by salt water. Rescue yourmost valuable plants. Gently fork themout of the soil, wash silt and debris fromthe roots and foliage, then heel them inin a drier part of the garden, or pot upsmall plants in containers with freshcompost until they can be planted out.Digging a shallow trench aroundvulnerable plants will help drain wateraway from their crowns. Lightly forkingaround larger shrubs and trees will helpto break up any surface compaction andrelieve local drainage problems.

If there are obvious signs of dieback, suchas browning leaves, check the viability ofstems or branches by removing a sliverof bark. On living stems, the bark will befirm, the underside green and the woodbeneath green or white and moist. Ondead stems, the bark will either be softand shiny, or dry and tough, the undersidewill be brown or black, and the woodbrown or white and dry. Remove anydead stems and branches and prune theplant into a balanced shape. Once newgrowth develops from the old wood, givethe plant a liquid feed. Depending on theseverity of the damage to the roots, theeffects on parts above the ground maytake time to emerge, and plants may stilldie long after the floods have receded.

Nutrients will have been washed out ofthe soil, so add slow-release fertiliser tocoax your plants back to health. Beneficialsoil organisms such as worms may alsohave been drowned or washed away, sodig in plenty of organic material such asgarden compost, grass clippings, or well-rotted manure to encourage them back.

CONTAINERSRaise flooded containers onto bricks,gravel or wooden pallets to drain awayexcess water, then remove the top 5-8cmof compost and replace it with freshcompost mixed with grit or perlite toimprove drainage. Shrubs and climbersin containers will appreciate a liquid feedin the growing season.

If the floods have wreaked havoc in yourgarden, planting up a few pots of newplants will give you something to liftyour spirits while you tackle the rest.

LAWNSIf the lawn is waterlogged for several days,wait until water levels have completelysubsided so that you can walk on itwithout leaving wet footprints. Hose orrake off silt and debris, then aerate theturf, either by hand using a garden fork,plunging it 13cm deep every 5-8cmacross the lawn, or hire a mechanicalslitter. Using a stiff brush, work a lawntop dressing or some coarse lime-freesand into the holes and reseed any baldpatches. Mixtures for family or utilitylawns are more flood resistant thanfescues and other fine lawn grasses.

Lawns submerged for over a week orcovered with more than 2.5cm of siltmay have to be replaced.As the silt maybe contaminated, it is best removed first.If the lawn is flooded after September(October in milder districts), wait untilMarch to attempt any major lawn repairs.

VEGETABLESAs a precaution, throw away any vegetablecrops that have been covered byfloodwater. Remove silt and other debrisin case it is contaminated. Let weedsgerminate as this will help to dry out thesoil, then hoe them off before they flower.

MINIMISING FUTURE FLOOD DAMAGE

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IMPROVING DRAINAGEThe time taken for a flooded garden todrain will vary according to the type oftopsoil and the permeability of thesubsoil in your area, as well as theweather conditions following a flood.Sand or chalk soils will dry out soonerthan clay soil, for example, as clay holdsmore water. Slow drainage can sometimesbe caused by a compacted ‘pan’ of soilabout 50cm below ground level, whichneeds breaking up mechanically to allowwater into lower layers.

If you do have very slow-draining soil,you could consider installing land drains.These are perforated plastic pipes laid ingravel in a herringbone pattern, connectedto a soakaway, an empty pit whichdischarges excess water (either by gravityor assisted by a pump) into a ditch orstorm drain. Soakaways need to bepositioned in a lower part of the gardenthan the area to be drained in order towork efficiently.They should be about1.8m deep and must be sited at least 5maway from buildings to avoid saturatingthe foundations. Before starting work,check with the local authority whetherwater can be piped into the surfacewater drainage system, and contactlocal landscapers with experience ofconstructing similar systems who canshow you examples of their work.

If your garden regularly suffers damagefrom groundwater flooding followingheavy rainfall, you may have a high localwater table. In this case, a soakawaysystem alone may not be sufficient todrain floodwater. One solution is toinstall a narrow drainage channel runningalongside a garden path or border,connected beneath soil level to the stormdrain.These can be bought at builder’smerchants and can be disguised by a layer

of decorative gravel. Some gardeners withsevere and persistent drainage problemshave imported large quantities of topsoiland gravel to raise the entire level of thegarden: besides the time and cost involved,work on this scale will cause seriousdisruption to existing paths and borders.

RAISED BEDSRaised beds are ideal for plants orvegetables that cannot cope withwaterlogging, as they will keep the rootsout of water and help the soil to warm upmore quickly in spring.They can beanything from 20cm to 1m high, and canbe edged with timber gravel boards,breeze blocks or railway sleepers. Moresubstantial raised beds need some sort ofdrainage, for example through weep-holesin brickwork one course above groundlevel. Fill the beds with a mixture of gardensoil, organic matter and grit; water, andleave the soil mixture to settle for abouttwo weeks, then add extra soil to raisethe level when planting. No further diggingshould be necessary, and beds can betopped up with well-rotted organic matterevery year that will be incorporated intothe soil by worms. Large concrete drainagechamber sections, found in builder’smerchants, make sturdy, functionalcontainers. Fill them with a mixture oftwo parts loam-based compost (John InnesNo. 3) and one part 3mm grit.

BOG GARDENSThe natural solution to permanently wetsoil is to create a bog garden in a low-lyingarea, which can then be planted withwater-loving bog plants such as hostas andprimulas.These plants will put on a lushdisplay of foliage and flowers, and if theplanting area is enriched with a goodsupply of organic matter they should beperfectly happy in drier spells, too. Seepage 11 for more planting suggestions.

ELECTRICITYOnce all electrical safety checks havebeen made, be sure to install a residualcircuit device (RCD) for any electricalequipment intended for garden use.When installing an electrical supply tothe garden, site sockets and connectionsat least a metre above ground level.Use water-resistant plugs outdoors.Consider using low-voltage (12V) systemsfor pond pumps and garden lighting.

FENCES AND HEDGESIf you are replacing fencing, and flooding islikely to be a regular problem, considermore waterproof alternatives. Forexample, concrete posts and concretegravel boards extend the life of woodenpanel or post and rail fencing as less woodis in direct contact with the soil.Theconcrete can be painted with exteriormasonry paint to blend in with the fencing.

Alternatives to timber include metal orrecycled plastic for fencing, pergolas andother upright structures. Hedging andornamental structures such as arbours canbe made from living willow, which isvirtually floodproof, easy to grow in dampareas and looks attractive all year. Plantmore conventional hedges on a ridge 15-30cm high, which will help keep at leastsome of the roots out of the waterloggeddanger zone in the aftermath of a flood.

DECKINGWhen using decking in damp areas, choosegood-quality hardwood, or softwood thathas been pressure-treated with timberpreservative to avoid rotting. Decking witha ridged surface will prevent slipping inwet conditions and, for added safety, youcould consider constructing a handrailaround the decking area.

PATHS AND PATIOSBark chippings make ideal temporary pathsover recently flooded ground. However,loose path or mulch materials, includinggravel, are likely to be washed away byflooding. Coarser grades of gravel maystay put but they are very difficult to cleanup if covered in silt. Conversely, smoothsurfaces made from stone, bricks orconcrete slabs can be lethally slippery afterflooding, especially in cold weather whenthey can freeze over. So if you are puttingin new paths or paved areas, choose pavingwith a rough, riven finish for a better grip.

In front gardens, try to resist layingconcrete or tarmac over the wholesurface, as this just reduces the area fromwhich floodwater can drain away. If youdo need to lay paving, choose small slabs(paviours) or bricks laid on sharp sand.This will allow water to drain away andreduce puddles.

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WORKING WITH WET SOILSWhen planting out in wet or heavy soil,both timing and soil preparation arecrucial.Avoid planting out into cold, wetsoil in late autumn, winter or early spring,as dormant plants cannot establish a rootrun, and may rot before growth can start.Try growing seedlings on in trays until theyhave a well-developed root system andplanting them out later, rather than sowingseeds directly into claggy soil. If you havecontainer-grown plants awaiting homes,put them in larger pots in a well-protectedholding area until you are sure that it issafe to plant them out in the open ground.

If you must plant out bare-rooted treesand shrubs into wet soil, mix in drycompost and/or grit with the soil takenout of the hole before backfilling, so thatit is dry enough to trickle in amongst allthe fine roots without crushing them orleaving lots of air spaces.Alternatively,use dry, loam-based compost.Whenplanting is complete, water well to settlethe soil and top up if necessary.

Even when soil conditions are good, rootsneed some help in adapting to their newconditions. Don’t plant pot-grown shrubsand perennials from the garden centrestraight into holes dug in uncultivatedclay soil: these will fill with water duringa flood, causing the roots to rot off.Before planting, dig over a wide areaaround the planting site, forking in plentyof 3mm grit at the same time to improvethe drainage around the roots.Tease outthe roots and mix some potting compostin with the soil in the planting hole. Iffreezing weather follows a flood, lightcomposts will turn to icicles and leave youwith freeze-dried roots. Infiltrating somesoil into the rootball can help avoid this.Planting on a slight mound will help todrain water from vulnerable crowns but

ensure at the same time that the rootsare covered with soil.

FLOOD-RESISTANT PLANTSIf you are planting in a flood-prone area,it is worth choosing plants that canwithstand a degree of waterlogging.Even if you have one low-lying spot inthe garden, selecting plants that enjoydamp soils will keep your garden lookinggood all year round and reduce plantcasualties in the future.

On the opposite page is a list of plantsthat prefer a constant supply of moisturethroughout the year. Some of them willsuffer a check to their growth if the soildries out, so incorporate plenty of organicmatter when planting and keep them wellwatered in very dry spells.

Few trees, except the large swamp cypress(Taxodium distichum), will thrive with theirroots in water for long but several speciescope well with damp soil and intermittentsoakings, including alder (Alnus), ash(Fraxinus), river birch (Betula nigra), silverbirch (B. pendula), hornbeam (Carpinus),rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), willow (Salix) andwing nut (Pterocarya).

With the possible exception of somewillow and dogwood species, most shrubswill deteriorate in constantly boggyground. However, many grow well onmoist soil provided it is not permanentlywaterlogged. See opposite for somesuggestions. If the boundary of yourgarden has boggy patches, grow hedgingon ridges to help drain water awayfrom the roots.

Many of the perennials listed will spreadrapidly in favourable conditions, so ensurethat you leave plenty of space betweenthem when planting.

FLOOD-RESISTANT PLANTING

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11

SHRUBSAmelanchier lamarckii (snowy mespilus) CBamboo CClethra (sweet pepper bush) CCornus (dogwood) CPhysocarpus CSambucus (elder) CSalix CSpiraea x vanhouttei CSymphoricarpos (snowberry) DViburnum opulus (guelder rose) B

PERENNIALSAruncus dioicus DAstilbe BAstrantia major BBergenia (elephants’ ears) BCaltha palustris (kingcup) BCampanula lactiflora BCarex (sedge) DCimicifuga (bugbane) DCirsium rivulare BDarmera peltata (umbrella plant) BEupatorium purpureum CEuphorbia griffitthii, E. palustris, E. robbiae CFilipendulaGentiana asclepiadea (willow gentian) DGeranium (cranesbill) CGeum rivale (water avens) DGunnera manicata (giant prickly rhubarb) BHelenium autumnale (sneezewort) BHemerocallis (day lily) BHosta (plantain lily) DHouttuynia cordata BInula BIris sibirica BLigularia BLobelia cardinalis (cardinal flower) BLychnis chalcedonica (Maltese cross) BLysimachia (yellow loosestrife) CLythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife) CMimulus (monkey flower) DMiscanthus BMyosotis (water forget-me-not) BOsmunda regalis (royal fern) DPersicaria (bistort) B

Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax) BPrimula (primrose) CRheum (ornamental rhubarb) CRodgersia DThalictrum (meadow rue) DViola (violet) D

Key B sun, C sun or shade, D shade

PLANTS TO AVOIDCherries and beech are vulnerable toflooding, as are Forsythia, Cistus and Genista(broom).As a general rule, plants whichare tolerant of drought conditions areparticularly susceptible to damage byflooding, and by wet soil in general.Thisincludes grey and silver-leaved shrubs suchas Senecio and Buddleja, perennials likeEryngium (sea holly), Echinops (globethistle) and many herbs and subshrubsfrom Mediterranean climates such asthyme, rosemary and lavender. Bulbs whichoriginate from dry areas, such as tulips,are also vulnerable. However, you can stillhave all these plants in your garden bygrowing them in containers or raised beds.

Bamboo

Daylily

Bamboo SneezewortSneezewort

Daylily Giant rhubarbGiant rhubarb

Avoid growing crops that need tooverwinter, such as Japanese onions, orany vegetables that need good drainagethroughout their growing season. Usea green manure such as winter taresinstead, or cover the soil with well-secured thick polythene sheeting or oldcarpet to keep down the weeds. Plantingon a mound can help shallow-rootingplants such as raspberries andstrawberries to survive winterwaterlogging. Mulch them well in springto counteract the drying effect of themound in hot weather. Raised beds areideal for growing vegetables.Apartfrom hoeing off annual weeds, littlecultivation is necessary once the edgingis in place and the bed filled with soil.Make sure that you can cultivate the cropseasily – a length of 3-3.6m and a widthof 1.2m is ideal for each bed, with pathsabout 45cm wide to allow for access.

LAWNSIf a waterlogged lawn is a regular problem,stepping stones would be a useful addition,and it’s worth considering alternatives,such as decking or paving.Alternatively, usemore of your garden for planting andinstall raised walkways to give youyear-round access.

WILDLIFEIt is easy to forget that flooding isa natural phenomenon, and most wildlifehas evolved to cope with it better thanhumans – badgers, for example, usuallybuild their setts above flood level. Moles,rabbits and other mammals that tunnelunderground, can be at risk from suddenfloods, although all adult mammals arecapable of swimming if necessary. Mostsmall creatures are likely to move quicklyto higher ground at the first sign ofa flood, and in autumn and winter will havea good store of body fat to help themthrough a lean period. Ground-feedingbirds will appreciate extra rations on areasof unflooded ground, but will have a fieldday once the floods recede, collecting updrowned and disorientated worms, andinsects and seeds washed out of the soil.

If you are considering planting a boggarden, there are many attractive nativespecies which thrive in these conditions,and attract wildlife.These include:

Bugle (Ajuga reptans) blue,Apr-JunGlobe flower (Trollius europaeus) yellow, MayLady’s smock (Cardamine pratensis) lilac,AprMeadowsweet (Filipendula) cream, Jun-JulPurple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)

purple, Jun-AugRagged robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) pink, MayWater avens (Geum rivale) deep pink,

Apr-JunWater mint (Mentha aquatica) pink, Jul-Sep

VEGETABLES

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The Environment Agency is the largestenvironmental organisation and regulatorin the UK, with a remit spanning emissionsfrom nuclear power stations andincinerators to the cleanliness of coastalbathing waters and the risk of floodingacross England and Wales.The Agency isresponsible for warning the public offlooding from rivers or the sea andbuilding and maintaining flood defencesin low-lying areas to reduce the risk tohomes and businesses.

The National Flood Warning CentreEnvironment AgencySwift House Frimley Business Park FrimleySurrey GU16 7SQ

Floodline 0845 988 1188

Emailnfwc@environment-agency.gov.ukWebsitewww.environment-agency.gov.uk/flood

More copies of this guide, and thecompanion booklets

Damage Limitation – How to Make YourHome Flood Resistant

After a Flood – How to Restore Your Home

are available free from Floodline 0845 988 1188

Gardening Which?magazine is publishedby Consumers’Association, a not-for-profit, independentorganisation whosemission is to campaignand research on behalfof the consumer,empowering people to make informedconsumer decisions.As part of theadvisory service it offers to members,Gardening Which? has been building upthe expertise to provide information onthe best way of reducing the impact offlooding, and dealing with the aftermath,and has drawn on this expertise for thisbooklet. For more information aboutGardening Which?, or to take outa subscription, please contact us at:

Gardening Which?PO Box 44Hertford XSG14 1SH

Tel 0845 903 7000Email gardening@which.net

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THE ENVIRONMENT AGENCY& GARDENING WHICH?

code 0202Published February 2002 Printed on Revive