45242 001 wi6553-001 aug13 2:51 am 6/19/13 45242 … wired magazine.pdf · telepre sence...

2
Chef Éric Lanlard helps WIRED test ice-cream makers – but which one licks the competition? PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MAXTED ZERO HERO AT Chef Éric Lanlard is famous for his desserts – here’s his recipe for green- tea ice-cream, which he used in WIRED’s test machines. INGREDIENTS 50ml sake 50ml milk 60g golden caster sugar 3 egg yolks 1 tablespoon matcha powder (easily available from Japanese delicatessens or online) blended with 2 tablespoons of water to form a smooth paste 200ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla- bean paste METHOD Mix the sugar, milk and sake over low heat, stirring it until the sugar dissolves. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Slowly pour in one-quarter of the hot milk, whisking as you go, then add this mixture back into the remaining hot milk. Stir the mix over a low heat, until it thickens slightly. Pour it into a bowl, via a sieve. Combine the matcha paste, cream and vanilla, and add the milk mixture. Whisk to blend and cool, then cover and chill. Follow the directions for your ice-cream maker. LAB RESULTS THIS MONTH: 08.13 TELEPRESENCE CONFERENCING ICE-CREAM MAKERS IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT EDITED BY JEREMY WHITE 1 3 9 LAB RESULTS THI THI THI THI THI THI THI THI THI THI THI T SM SM SM SM SM SM SM SM SM SM SM SM MONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT ONT NT O N N H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H: H H 08. 08. 08. 08. 08. 08. 08 8 08. 08 08 08. 8 13 1 13 13 13 13 3 3 13 13 1 13 3 TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL TEL E TEL T TE T EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR EPR R ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE ESE S E E NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE NCE C CE N CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO C O CO CO C O NFE NFE NFE NFE NFE NFE NF NFE NFE FE NFE E NFE NFE REN REN REN REN REN REN REN REN REN REN RE REN E REN N CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN CIN G G G G G G G G G G G ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE I C C -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR -CR CR C -C EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM EAM M EAM EA E MA MA MA MA MA MA MA MA MA A MA MA MA M KER KER KER KER KER KER KER KER KER KE R R KE KE S S S S S S S S S S S IN- IN- IN- IN- IN- IN- N- N- IN - IN- N N FLI FLI FLI FLI FLI FLI FLI FLI LI FL L FLI I I GHT GHT GHT GHT G GHT GHT GHT GHT GHT GHT T EN EN EN EN EN EN EN EN EN N EN N EN E E TER TER TER TER TER TER TER TER TER TER ER TER R E TAI TAI TAI TAI TAI TAI TAI TA TAI TAI TAI AI A A NME NME N NME NME NME NME NME NME NME NME NME N N N ME NT NT NT NT NT NT NT NT NT NT NT N E E E E E E E E ED ED ED EDI E E E E E E E E E ED E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E E TED BY J JER JER JER JER JER JER ER J JE J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J R J J J J R J J J J J ER E J J J J R J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J E J J J J EMY EMY EMY EMY EMY EMY EMY EMY EMY Y EMY MY E Y WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH WH H ITE ITE ITE ITE ITE ITE ITE ITE TE ITE TE TE ITE ITE ITE T

Upload: trannhan

Post on 18-Sep-2018

215 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

TALK TO US ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS’SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS

[email protected]

WIRED’S CONSULTING SERVICE OFFERS BUSINESSESTHE OPPORTUNITY TO ENGAGE WITH THE MAGAZINE’SFUTURE3FACING CONTENT VIA BESPOKE PROJECTS 8LEVERAGING OUR EXPERTISE AND THE WIRED NETWORK

If you want to know how yourbusiness could innovate forthe future,56789 Consultingruns stimulating workshopsfor groups large and small.Whether a half- or full-dayworkshop, or longer, we willcurateanagendathat inspires.

1WORKSHOPS& MASTER-CLASSES

56789 consultants are con-fident, proficient speakers,delivering thought-provokingpresentations and keynotes ona broad range of topics aroundfuture trends, technology,designandbusiness.Ourreportsaredetailedanddrivenbydata.

56789 Consu l t ing runsdynamic and exciting events.The 56789 Test Lab can beset up at your oce or event,bringing the latest innova-tions and technologies to lifewith hands-on experiencesand installation pieces.

3BESPOKECURATEDEVENTS

56789Consulting’sexpertteamof designers, researchers andwriters is on hand to packageyour message in a format thatis at once authoritative, engag-ing and visually compelling.We are open to discussing abroad range of design projects.

2TRENDPRESENTATIONS

& REPORTS 4TAILOREDDESIGN &PRINTING

IMAG

IMAG

IMAG

IMAGE:C

E:C

E:C

E:C:

ORBI

ORBI

ORBI

ORBISSSS

08-13ConsultingWI6660.indd 500 20/06/2013 01:54

45242_500_WI6660_Consultating_Ad_AUG13 2:06 AM 6/20/13

Chef Éric Lanlard helpsWIRED test ice-creammakers – but which onelicks the competition?

•••

••

••

PHOTO

GRAPHY:R

ICHARDMAXTED

ZEROHERO ATChef Éric Lanlard

is famous for his

desserts – here’s his

recipe for green-

tea ice-cream, which

he used in WIRED’s

test machines.

INGREDIENTS50ml sake50ml milk60g goldencaster sugar3 egg yolks1 tablespoonmatcha powder(easily availablefrom Japanesedelicatessens oronline) blendedwith 2 tablespoonsof water to form asmooth paste200ml double cream1 tsp vanilla-bean paste

METHODMix the sugar, milkand sake over lowheat, stirring it untilthe sugar dissolves.

In a bowl, whiskthe egg yolks. Slowlypour in one-quarterof the hot milk,whisking as yougo, then add thismixture back into theremaining hot milk.

Stir the mix overa low heat, until itthickens slightly.Pour it into a bowl,via a sieve. Combinethe matcha paste,cream and vanilla,and add the milkmixture. Whisk toblend and cool, thencover and chill. Followthe directions foryour ice-cream maker.

LAB RESULTSTHIS MONTH: 08.13TELEPRESENCE CONFERENCINGICE-CREAM MAKERSIN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

EDITED BYJEREMY WHITE

•••

1 3 9

LAB RESULTSTHITHITHITHITHITHITHITHITHITHITHIT S MS MS MS MS MS MS MS MS MS MS MS MMONTONTONTONTONTONTONTONTONTONTONTONTNTONNO H:H:H:H:H:H:H:H:H:H:H:H:HH 08.08.08.08.08.08.08808.080808.8 131131313133313131133TELTELTELTELTELTELTELTELTELTELETELTTET EPREPREPREPREPREPREPREPREPREPREPREPRRESEESEESEESEESEESEESEESEESEESEESESEENCENCENCENCENCENCENCENCENCENCENCECCEN COCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCONFENFENFENFENFENFENFNFENFEFENFEENFENFERENRENRENRENRENRENRENRENRENRENRERENERENNCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINCINGGGGGGGGGGGICEICEICEICEICEICEICEICEICEICEICEICC -CR-CR-CR-CR-CR-CR-CR-CR-CR-CRCRC-C EAMEAMEAMEAMEAMEAMEAMEAMEAMEAMMEAMEAE MAMAMAMAMAMAMAMAMAAMAMAMAM KERKERKERKERKERKERKERKERKERKERRKEKE SSSSSSSSSSSIN-IN-IN-IN-IN-IN-N-N-IN-IN-NN FLIFLIFLIFLIFLIFLIFLIFLILIFLLFLIIIGHTGHTGHTGHTGGHTGHTGHTGHTGHTGHTT ENENENENENENENENENNENNENEE TERTERTERTERTERTERTERTERTERTERERTERRE TAITAITAITAITAITAITAITATAITAITAIAIAA NMENMENNMENMENMENMENMENMENMENMENMENNNMENTNTNTNTNTNTNTNTNTNTNTN

EEEEEEEEEDEDEDEDIEEEEEEEEEEDEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE TED BYJJERJERJERJERJERJERERJJEJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJ RJJJJ RJJJJJEREJJJJ RJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJEJJJJ EMYEMYEMYEMYEMYEMYEMYEMYEMYYEMYMYE Y WHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHWHHITEITEITEITEITEITEITEITETEITETETEITEITEITET

•••••••••••••••••••••••••

08-13TestOpenerWI6553 [P].indd 1 19/06/2013 02:46

45242_001_WI6553-001_AUG13 2:51 AM 6/19/13

2. CUISINARTGELATO &ICE-CREAMPROFESSIONALICE100BCUUnlike the KitchenAid,this maker uses acompressor system,so there’s no need topre-freeze the bowl.You have to serve upthe mixture quickly,as it only stays coolfor ten minutes or so,but the ice-creamchurned beautifully.“This was myfavourite machine,”says Lanlard.

1. KITCHENAID4.8L STANDMIXER + ICE-CREAM MAKERThis stand mixer hasan add-on ice-creammaker, so althoughit’s expensive, itis versatile. The4.8-litre bowl mustsit in the freezer for12 hours before use,so planning ahead isessential. Chef ÉricLanlard thought itsice-cream set tooquickly, as “it wasn’tas creamy and fluffyas the other makers”.

WIRED Professional-

standard results

TIRED Large size

£250 cuisinart.co.uk

SPECChurn time: 45minDecibels: 79Freeze bowl: NoBowl size: 1.5lWattage: 150WWeight: 10.2kgDimensions: H24 xW30 x D42cm

WIRED Very fast

TIRED Pre-freezing

£429 + £77kitchenaid.co.uk

SPECChurn time:

36 minDecibels: 88Freeze bowl:

Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 4.8lWattage: 300WWeight: 9.5kgDimensions: H36 xL22 x D34cm

ÉriÉriÉriÉÉrÉ c Lc Lc Lc LLc Lanlanlananla ardardarddardard (((((aboaboaboaboab veveveveve),),),)), awaawaawaawaward-rd-rd-rd-drd winwinwininwinninninninni gggeFreFreFreF nchnchnchnchnchc chchchchefefefee andanandandnd auauauauthothothothor or or oor offf ChoChoChChoccolcololco atattt,,,madmadmadmaddmadade me me me me atcatcatcatcatchahahahaha gregregregregreen-en-en-en-n teateateatea icicicce-ce-ce-crearearereaeammmm– a– a– a– n en en en exclxclxclxc usiusiusiususiss vevevevee recrecrecreccipeipeipeipe fofofoforrrr WIRWIRWIRWWIREDEDED ––usiusiusiu iu ngngngn fivfivfivfivfive ie ie ieeee ice-ce-cee-ee crecreccrecreamammamam makmakmakmaka erserserrserss. E. E. Eachachhacmacmacmacmaachinhinhinhine we we we wasasassa assassassassessessesssssedede ononoo aesaesaesthethethetictict cs,s,,perperpperperforforformanmanmamance,ce,cece, vavavav luelueueelue anannnd qd qd qqualuualityityitty ofof icicce-e-ee-crecrecrerec am.am.m WeWeWWeW titittiimedmedmedmeme hohohow lw lw ongongong eaeaeachchhh modmodmodmodeleleletootooook tk tk tk o co co creareaearee tetete a ba ba ba atcatatct h oh ooh of df dff essesseee erterte t ththhatatatmetmetmett LaLaaanlanlaard’rd’rd’rd’s hs hs hs highighghgigh stststandandndandardardards:s:s “Yo“Yo“Youuuuwanwanwanant tt tt tt hehehehe iceicei -cr-cr-creameamamam tototo bebebe scscsccoopoopoopablablb eeeeandandandan nonononot tt tt toooooo setsetsetset,”,”,”” hehehehe saysaysaya s.s.ss. OpeOpeOpeOperatratatatinginginoinoiono se-se-sse levlevlevlevelselselss wewewewererererer monmonmonitoitototot redredredr ususuu inginging ththhtheeDecDecDecDe ibeibeeibel Ml Ml MMeteeteeteer Pr Pr Pr PProrororo iOiOOiOS aS aS aS apppppp (69(69(6969p).p).p).p)oo

1 2

PHOTO

GRAPHY:M

ATTHEW

STYLIANOU.

WORDS:E

MILYPECK;*

MIN

TELTRENDSREPORT20

11-12

08-13TestIcecreamsWI6555 [P].indd 1 12/06/2013 21:59

45242_001_WI6555-001_AUG13 10:10 PM 6/12/13

4. KENWOODICE-CREAMMAKER IM200The bowl on thismaker does needfreezing for 12 hoursbeforehand, but itwas the fastestmodel at churningice-cream. As it wasso powerful, Lanlardfelt that theice-cream came out alittle too set, so thetexture wasn’t ascreamy as thatproduced by the othermodels. It’s also verynoisy at 92 decibels.

WIRED CompactTIRED Ice-cream setsa little too stiffly

£30 kenwood.co.uk

SPECChurn time: 26 minDecibels: 92Freeze bowl:Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 1.1lWattage: 6kWWeight: 2.9kgDimensions: H21 xL19 x W19

3. MAGIMIXGELATOCHEF 2200This compactmachine does its jobwell, but took thelongest overall, asyou have to wait tenminutes for the bowlto chill before placingyour mixture in.Lanlard found the ice-cream “nicely aeratedand a very satisfyingscoop”. As well as aremovable 1.6-litrebowl, it has a second,fixed bowl – good formixing another batch.

WIRED Easy to use;handy second bowlTIRED Pricey

£280 magimix.co.uk

SPECChurn time: 44minDecibels: 85Freeze bowl: NoBowl size: 1.6lWattage: 150WWeight: 10kgDimensions: H34 xL24 x D24cm

5. SWAN COMEDINE WITH MEICE-CREAM &GELATO MAKERWhat makes thismachine stand out isthe way the bowlrotates when mixing,while the paddlesremain stationary.“This could be whythe ice-cream was solight,” says Lanlard.It was the loudestunit on test, gettingeven louder as theice-cream set, so it’sprobably not ideal forsmaller kitchens.

WIRED Fluffy andlight scoopTIRED Very noisy

£48 amazon.co.uk

SPECChurn time: 32 minDecibels: 94Freeze bowl:Yes (12 hours)Bowl size: 2lWattage: 50WWeight: 4.28kgDimensions: H29 xL24 x W21cm

IN S ID ESCO OPWIRED mixes it up with homeice-cream makers

I C E - C R E A M M A K E R S / 0 8 / T E S T

3 4 5

G L O B A L A N N U A LI C E - C R E A MC O N S U M P T I O N *

US – 17 litres per headAustralia – 10.3 litresSweden – 8 litresDenmark – 7 litresUK – 6 litres

1 4 5

08-13TestIcecreamsWI6555 [P].indd 2 19/06/2013 14:31

45242_002_WI6555-001_AUG13 2:34 PM 6/19/13