8. great food magazine nov/dec 2011

greatfoodCelebrating local food & drink

I S S U E # 9 £ 3 . 2 0HANDMADE IN THE

HEART OF ENGLAND

£3

.20

ISS

UE

#9

WHERE TO EAT OUTA!o i"i#...

Eat locally, drink and be merry!C$%tmas I&u'('

Food fest specialPICS FROM NORTHAMPTON, RUTLAND, STRATFORD & MELTONLocal chefs cook

hare and venison

Good game!

How to hot and cold-smoke

SMOKE IT

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

DELICIOUS FESTIVE RECIPES Christmas pud soufflé,

Brussels bake and perfect turkey

P64

Your essential Heart of England food maps

P66

Local restaurants reviewed and profiled

P18

Diary of region’s best Christmas food events

PLUS The ultimate cheeseboard

Great Food Club update Derbyshire’s best chorizo

Three ways to preserve pears

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

Find us on Follow us on

It’s been an award winning year for Everards bottled beers and to celebrate we are offering a great deal on our entire bottled range so you can enjoy our award winning beers at home as well as in the pub.

Tiger (4.5% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £10.99 Was £16.45 Our best selling ale, Tiger Best Bitter is a quality, trusted beer. Brewed using premium quality ingredients, Tiger Best Bitter was a Gold Medalist, at The Brewing Industry International Awards 2011.

Original (5.2% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £12.99 Was £19.48 Our premium ale and winner of the gold medal in the International Brewing Awards. Original is best known for its smooth, full-bodied taste. Original was awarded a Bronze Medal, at the International Beer Challenge 2011.

Beacon (3.8% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £10.99 Was £15.82 The favourite of our Head Brewer. Its hoppiness is what makes Beacon stand out. You will find a dry finish and wish for more! Beacon Bitter has received a Diploma of Excellence at the 2011 British Bottlers Institute Awards.

There are two easy ways to get your hands on this deal - but be quick as it’s only available whilst stocks last.

Visit one of our brewery shops either at our brewery (next to Fosse Park, Leicestershire)

or at Rutland Vintners in Langham

Purchase online by visiting http://shop.everards.co.uk

(additional delivery charges will be incurred)

everards.indd 2everards.indd 2 19/10/11 13:04:0819/10/11 13:04:08

GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT JANUARY 5, 2012

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Christmas by Graham Wright.

Great Food has been shortlisted for a Media Pioneer Award by the Specialist Media Show – www.thespecialistmediashow.com

Editorwww.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Contents

WRITE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. [email protected]

Twitter: @greatfoodmag

Welcome

Great Food Magazine 3

BUCKS FIZZ4 The Big Picture6 News10 Great Food Club & Subs Offer14 Fresh Out the Oven18 Events Diary20 Chocolate Workshop

PORK PIE BREAKFAST22 East Midlands Food Festival24 Red Lion’s Christmas Day Planner26 My December 2528 Christmas Pudding Soufflé29 Perfect Festive Cheeseboard30 Local Christmas Food Round-Up

CHRISTMAS LUNCH34 Jaquest’s Derbyshire Smokery36 How to Smoke Your Own38 Northamptonshire Food Show40 Panettone Recipe42 Foodie Gift Hunter44 Langar Hall’s Artichoke Soup45 Brussels Sprout Bake46 Stratford-upon-Avon Food Festival48 Game Recipes

CHRISTMAS PUD50 Preserving with Pears52 Rutland Food Festival54 Pub Walk: Easton on the Hill56 Lucy Cufflin’s Christmas Biscotti57 Danny Jimminson58 The Insider59 Mark Tetlow

SNOOZE ON THE SOFA62 Local Restaurant News63 Profile: Rooftop Restaurant, Stratford64 Restaurant Map66 Restaurant Reviews68 Rural Retreats70 Deli Map72 Profile: Brown & Green74 Profile: Otters Smokehouse76 Farm Shop and Butchers Map79 Profile: Flitteriss Park Farm

EVENING SESSION82 Veg Patch Tips and Recipes84 Dream Home86 Dream Kitchen89 Make Christmas Decorations90 New! The Practical Pantry

EDITOR & PUBLISHER: M Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins & Becky Kane –01780 766199 (ext 213 and 235)SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341PUBLISHED BY: Rocco MediaPRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE: Tim Burke, Matt Gregory, Andrew Brackenbury, Mark Hamilton,

Emma Ansell, Jack Thorpe, Aaron Patterson, Shelly Preston, Tim Brown, Rosemary Jameson, Sean Hope, Emily Holt, Mark Tetlow, Graham & Jill Wright, Jane & Enzo Maffioli, Helen Benton, Lucy Cufflin, Helen Tarver, Ross Jeffery, Ian Davison, Laura Harvey and... Rocco the Jack Russell.WEBSITE: @paulbunkhamFull Ts & Cs are on our website STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock

Welcome to Issue 9 of Great Food – your biggest issue yet. As always, the starring role in this magazine is played by the Heart of England’s best food and drink and the fascinating people behind it. After 18 months of editing Great Food, I continue to be staggered by the variety and quality of food raised, made and cooked in our region.

With Christmas dancing its merry way towards us, this issue has a festive theme. Recipes shared by some of the area’s best chefs include Christmas Pudding Soufflé, Panettone, and Pear, Apple and Ginger Mincemeat. And for those who like to get stuck in, check out Matt Gregory’s guide to smoking food on p36. I do hope that one of you has a go at catching and then smoking your own Christmas starter!

Finally, I’m excited to announce that Great Food Club – a new concept that showcases superb local food, and allows you to enjoy it for a little less – is now up and running (p10).

Welco!

4 Great Food Magazine

A ll is quiet except for the contented sound of turkeys gobbling and the occasional squawk from the geese.

Poultry farmers Nick Ball (the chap on the left in the picture) and his partner Jacob Sykes are patiently posing for photographs, telling us about their slow-grown turkeys, cockerels, geese, chickens and guinea fowl. The location is eight-acre Fosse Meadows Farm in Frolesworth, south Leicestershire, and a sense of calm permeates. But soon the festive sprint will begin, bird orders will fly in, and logistical challenges will commence.

Earlier this year, The Independent published an article saying that Nick and Jacob’s birds were the tastiest reared in Britain, having discovered one of their free-range Cotswold White chickens in a London butcher’s, Allens of Mayfair. “We hadn’t been farming long so the Independent article spurred us on,” says Jacob. Becoming a supplier to Michelin-starred Rutland restaurant The Olive Branch has also boosted confidence.

Nick, 36, and Jacob, 35, started farming here in April 2009 and before that worked in London as a fashion designer and property developer respectively. “Deciding to start a poultry farm was a big call,” says Nick. “But my family has farmed at Frolesworth for four generations and

dad [David] still does, so we were able to start the business on his land. We love it but it’s seven days a week! We stand at Queen’s Park, Parliament Hill and South Kensington markets, and locally we focus on food shows.”

Photoshoot over, we tuck into a roast cockerel back at the farmhouse. It has a stronger taste than chicken. It is incredibly tasty.

Jacob explains why he believes their birds taste exceptional: “Quite simply, they’re grown more slowly. Our chickens are slaughtered at 11-and-a-half weeks or more, while commercial free-range chickens are killed at five or six weeks. Our dry-plucked turkeys are reared in accordance with Traditional Farm Fresh Turkey Association guidelines and killed at six months, compared with 8-12 weeks for most. They’re hung for 10 days to improve flavour. A Fosse bird is fitter and has larger legs because it gets to run about outside for longer.”

The result is poultry that is packed with flavour, making Fosse Meadows turkeys, cockerels or geese the perfect local birds for Christmas.

CONTACT Fosse Meadows Farm, Sharnford Road, Frolesworth, Lutterworth, Leics LE17 5EE 01455 202702, fossemeadows.com

How to cook the perfect turkeyAs soon as possible after collecting your turkey, remove all packaging and store in a cool place. If trussed, remove the string before cooking. Do not stuff the cavity as this will stop your turkey cooking properly. Instead, place a large Bramley apple or peeled onion inside. Sprinkle the bird with salt and pepper and place breast-down – covering with foil if you prefer – in a roasting tin. Cook at Gas 8 (230°C) for 30-60 minutes depending on size, before reducing heat to Gas 5 (190°C) and cooking for the amount of time demanded by the weight of the bird. For example, a 5kg bird will take around 2h 10m in total without foil and 2h 55m with foil – add/subtract 20 mins per extra/fewer kilogram. Remember that ovens vary greatly. Thirty minutes before the end of cooking, turn the bird carefully on its back to brown the breast. Allow to rest for 20 minutes before serving. For more information, go to www.totallytraditionalturkeys.com

!" cal# b$r" C%&tm'

THE BIG PICTURE

Fosse Meadows Farm in South Leicestershire is peaceful now but the festive rush will soon begin in earnest

ARTICLE: MATT WRIGHT PHOTO: ANDREW BRACKENBURY (ABRACKENBURY.COM)

• For a special festive Fosse Meadows reader offer, turn to p27


“ Th! Independent said Nick and Jaco"’s birds ar! th! tastiest reared i# Britai#”

Fosse Meadows Farm

Two stars for Sat Bains; Olive Branch toasts 10 years

REGION’S MICHELIN STARS ANNOUNCED

Restaurant Sat Bains of Nottingham has been awarded two Michelin stars in the 2012 Michelin Guide, which was

unveiled on October 6.Sat Bains, who previously held one star,

becomes the only Midlands chef to hold two, and one of 17 two-star holders in Great Britain and Ireland. Sat said: “We are delighted to bring this second star home to Nottingham. This region has a wealth of produce and some of the best artisan suppliers in the UK.”

Elsewhere in the Heart of England, The Olive Branch of Clipsham, Rutland, retained its single Michelin star for the tenth year. Sean Hope, Olive Branch head chef and joint owner, said:

“Ten stars in ten years represents a major achievement – the concept of the gastro pub hasn’t stood still and we’ve evolved with it. This is good for the entire team.”

Rutland’s Hambleton Hall, where many of the region’s best chefs began their careers, also held its Michelin star.

In the west, Birmingham restaurants Purnell’s, Simpsons and Turners retained their

stars; as did Fischer’s at Baslow Hall, located further north in the Peak District.

Three new restaurants in Great Food’s patch were awarded Michelin Bib Gourmands (“good food at moderate prices”) for the first time – The Berkeley Arms at Wymondham, Leics, The Joiners at Bruntingthorpe, Leics, and the Red Lion at East Haddon, Northants (see p66).

Louise Hitchen, joint proprietor at The Berkeley Arms, said: “We are thrilled to receive the Bib Gourmand.”

The Red Lion at Stathern and Jim’s Yard at Stamford retained their Bib Gourmands.


HAMBLETONS IS FIVE!Hambletons’ Oakham store celebrated its fifth birthday in October. The family-owned butcher and deli, which sells a spectacular array of meat reared in Rutland and Lincolnshire, plus a range of artisan foods, is now stocking wines from Italian specialist Bat & Bottle hambletonfarms.co.uk

ST GILES CHEESE Northampton shop St Giles Cheese took the runner-up slot in the Best New Retailer category at the British Cheese Awards, held in September in Cardiff. Winner was No. 2 Pound Street of Wendover, Bucks. stgilescheese.com

WARWICK’S BEST ALEAn IPA brewed by Warwickshire Beer Co called Rugby Ball Stitcher is Warwickshire’s Beer of the Year. The ale took top prize after blind taste tests at the Merchants Inn, Rugby.warwickshirebeer.co.uk

CLAWSON SETS RECORDIn the latest move to celebrate its centenary, Long Clawson Dairy has successfully made the world’s largest slice of cheese. At a tense event at Long Clawson village hall, Melton Mowbray Mayor Alison Freer confirmed that the slice of Stilton weighed in at a record 110.5kg. clawson.co.uk

Cooking?EDITED BY: MATT WRIGHT

What’s

FOOD EDUCATION

Northampton-based Secret Seed Society, which encourages children to grow their own food and eat healthily, is launching a new activity book. Created by Northampton artist Shena Cooper (see p38), Secret Seed Society comprises a series of illustrated stories that follow the exploits of characters such as Carla Carrot, Peter Parsnip

and the Brussels Sprout Twins. Each A5 story pamphlet comes with a packet of organic seeds and a recipe.

“The new story will be about a new character called Rio Rocket,” said Shena. “The aim is to reconnect children with nature and boost health.”

For more information visit www.secretseedsociety.com

Rio Rocket joins Peter Parsnip!

Sm!A Sat Bains dish called NG7 2SA (the restaurant’s postcode). Its main ingredients are foraged from hedgerows near the Nottingham eatery Sat Bains

The Olive Branch

Local food news

Andy Hoyle – the man behind Melton Sloe Gin, based at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton – has been furiously picking local berries for his next batch. It wouldn’t be Christmas without sloe gin, so why not try his local brew? – www.meltondrinks.co.uk

Reco!endsR"o“Excellent places that let me in”

PACKHORSE INN“A year ago I worked as a canine steward at the mid-way point on a 50-

mile Peak District walk. It turned out to be glorious fun! Not only did I get to nip the ankles of weary walkers and steal snacks, I also discovered a superb pub 50 yards up the road. The Packhorse at Little Longstone near Bakewell welcomed me with open arms and served me several pints of a cracking Thornbridge Brewery IPA called Jaipur. My stewarding became a little erratic, but what a great way to spend the day.”

Packhorse Inn, Main St, Little Longstone, Derbyshire 01629 640471, packhorselongstone.co.uk

Tra#cen$nt %& r'msCALKE ABBEY, TICKNALLWhen Great Food tweeted followers to ask them to name their favourite tea rooms, National Trust property Calke Abbey near Ticknall in Derbyshire was recommended. The Grade I listed mansion, which was

preserved as found in 1985, has a tea room/restaurant (open from 10.30am-4pm everyday

throughout winter) that is supplied by fruit and vegetables grown in Calke’s extensive gardens. The café’s scones, served with Lubcloud Dairy cream, have a fine reputation.

Calke Abbey, Ticknall, Derbyshire DE73 7LE, 01332 863822, www.national trust.org.uk


There can’t be many artisan bakers who have defused bombs in the heat of warzones, yet that’s exactly what new

School of Artisan Food diploma student Jim Bishop used to do for a living.

Jim, 43, from near Lincoln, has given up his role of Army Major and Senior Instructor at the EOD’s Counter Terrorism Unit to follow his passion for food.

“I joined the Royal Engineers aged 16,” says Jim. “I’ve since worked in bomb disposal in the Balkans, Iraq and East Africa. I’ve always loved food but it’s since getting my own kitchen that I really started to enjoy cooking. I’m an

amateur forager and have recently built my own cold-smoker and cob oven.”

Jim started the School of Artisan Food’s one-year diploma in October and aims to be running his own artisan bakery by the end of 2012. He will be blogging about his experiences at his website www.tinkertailorsoldierbaker.com and at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk.

“I’m massively into bread baking and I want to take that one stage further. I’ve decided to make a career change now while I’ve still got time.”

The School of Artisan Food is based on Welbeck Estate near Worksop and runs short courses as well as the one-year diploma.

Left: Jim Bishop. Right: School of Artisan Food’s new diploma students

Sloes plucked near Melton

GOODBYE BOMB DISPOSAL, HELLO WILD YEAST BAKINGAfter 26 years in the military, Army Major begins baking career

FOOD PEOPLE

{Stamford pub the Tobie Norris has been named Britain’s Newcomer of the Year by the Good

Pub Guide 2012. The Guide says: “Very special, this is one of those pubs which makes you grin with delight at its sheer character the moment you step inside – then goes on to reveal more.”

Tobie Norris is best }New conservatory at the Tobie Norris

Cooking?What’s

Beckworth Emporium wins top restaurant title

NORTHANTS’ BEST EATERIES NAMEDThe daytime-only restaurant at Beckworth

Emporium in Mears Ashby has been named Restaurant of the Year at the Carlsberg

Northamptonshire Food Awards 2011/12. The food hall, nursery and produce market uses fresh ingredients from its deli/butchery in its restaurant kitchen, including locally reared meat from Hambleton Farms in Rutland.

Runner-up in the Restaurant of the Year Category is The Seafood Café in Northampton, which offers both traditional

fish and chips and an extensive selection of crab, lobster, oysters and smoked fish.

Best Pub Restaurant Award went to the Rose & Crown at Yardley Hastings, with the Saracen’s Head of Little Brington in second place.

Rapeseed oil producer Farrington’s of Hargrave scooped Best Local Product Award for its balsamic dressing, while Best Local Drink went to Fleur Fields Rosé by Fleur Fields Vineyard of Brixworth. The Local Food Hero prize was won by Collyweston Community Shop.

The Awards, devised by the Northamptonshire Enterprise Partnership, are in their third year and designed to celebrate local produce and cuisine. Judging is carried out by creating a shortlist for each category. Then the public are invited to vote for their favourite venue via text, online or in writing. Shortlisted venues are ‘mystery shopped’ or tested by two independent judges, both of whom are external to the county. The Best Local Product and Best Local Drink categories are tasted and rated by a local panel.


BEEDHAMS GLORY Butchers JT Beedham of Sherwood, Nottingham, has been named Observer Food Monthly’s Producer of the Year 2011. Run by Johnny Pusztai, who supplies Nottingham’s Sat Bains, the unassuming butcher’s shop beat off stiff competition from around the UK. jtbeedham.co.uk

RUTLAND & DERBYLeicester city centre pub the Rutland & Derby, which has a deli counter next to its bar, has added freshly made pizzas to its list of delicacies. The pub has invested £15,000 in a pizza oven following the launch of its deli last year. everards.co.uk

STAMFORD ORANGERYStamford Garden Kitchen is to open an orangery at its Casterton Road site in Stamford, Lincolnshire. The restaurant will be enhanced by a glass structure above the patio (see below). Stamford Garden Kitchen hosts evening dining events and sources produce from local farms.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

SHIPSTON CARDHigh street food retailers in the Warwickshire market town of Shipston-on-Stour have launched a loyalty card to fight back against out-of-town shopping centres. Jim Cherry, an ex-dairy farmer who runs Shipston food retailer Taste of the Country, and one of the driving forces behind the project, said: “Card holders can collect points at local shops and redeem them. For example, 750 points can be exchanged for a £30 food hamper.” shipstoncard.co.uk

FOOD TRAINING INITIATIVE

Leicester Market is set to launch a Food Enterprise Workshop in early 2012.

The workshop is a pilot project introduced by Joe Harkin, Market Development Manager, and is unique to Leicester. The scheme is designed to give people from disadvantaged backgrounds

the tools to break into the food industry. Workshop attendees will learn about food hygiene and receive business training.

“They’ll get guidance and will be able to make food products that can be tried out in a Test Trade Area,” said Joe. “The workshops will offer tips that will help in the real world.”

Leicester Market workshops

Sm!

Jim Cherry

Joe Harkin

Left: Beckworth’s Afternoon

Tea for Two. Right:

Farrington’s balsamic dressing

Above: Beckworth Emporium

whether you are planning a night away, a christmas meal with friends ordelicious goodies for your christmas gifts...

maiyango should be top of yourchristmas list for 2011!

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Great Food Club: join todayEnjoy the best local food, support local producers and save cash

“All Great Food Club businesses are handpicked”


WHAT IS IT?Great Food Club showcases high-quality local producers, restaurants, farm shops and delis, and saves you money when you shop or eat with them. For example, using your Great Food Club Card, you can save 15% at Assiette in Stamford, get 50% off lunch at Entropy in Leicester, enjoy 10% discount on free-range birds raised at Fosse Meadows Farm near Lutterworth, and get 10% off lamb and pork reared at Flitteriss Park Farm in Rutland.

Dish served at AssietteHIGH QUALITY AND LOCALGreat Food Club businesses are handpicked by this magazine and all – from farmers to chefs to restaurateurs – are passionate about local food and drink. They have been invited to be part of the club.

Great Food Club: join todayEnjoy the best local food, support local producers and save cash


Subscribe and get FREE Great Food Club membership at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Or call 01664 853341 with your card detailsOr fill out the form overleaf (p13) and send a cheque

HOW TO JOIN – A SPECIAL OFFERUntil the end of 2011 we are running a very special offer – subscribe to Great Food magazine for one year for £17.50 and you will automatically become a

member of Great Food Club for one year too, free of charge. So not only will you get six issues delivered to your door, you will also receive a membership card.

Jacob and Nick from Fosse Meadows Farm

Assiette Boboli

Entropy Farndon Fields

Firenze Flitteriss Park Farm

Fosse Meadows

The Jackson Stops Jam On The Hill Jam Jar Shop

Hambleton BakeryHambleton Hall

Hammer & Pincers Lake Isle

Hotel Maiyango The Old Barn Inn The Olive Branch

The Red Lion Stapleford Park

Three HorseshoesMore coming soon...

WHO’S PART OF GREAT FOOD CLUB SO FAR?

Celebrate in stylethis Christmas!

Celebrate in stylethis Christmas!

Stilton & Broccoli Soup, Home Baked Bread.Thai Style Fish Cakes, Coriander Salad,

Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce.Black Pudding Scotch Egg, Smoked Bacon Salad,

Grain Mustard Dressing.***

Pot Roast Blackberry Farm Turkey, Traditional Accompaniments.Sirloin Steak, Hand Cut Chips,Pepper Sauce (£3 Supplement).

Pan Roast Salmon Fillet, New Potatoes,Crushed Peas, Crayfish Butter Sauce.

Parsnip, Chestnut & Leek Tartlet, Potato Noisette.***

Homemade Christmas Pudding, Brandy Butter Ice Cream.Baked Chocolate & Almond Cake, Praline Ice Cream.

Homemade Ice Creams & Sorbet.Stilton & Vintage Lincolnshire Poacher.

£28 for three coursesOpening times: Monday: Closed

Tuesday-Saturday: 12-2pm & 6-9.30pm. Sunday: 12-4pm.

OPEN EVERY DAY EXCEPTCHRISTMAS EVE THROUGH DECEMBER.

www.hammerandpincers.co.uk

CHRISTMAS PARTY MENU

p12_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:12p12_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:12 20/10/11 16:19:4220/10/11 16:19:42

Important information: Offer open until Dec 31, 2011. Unless you state otherwise, subscriptions will start with the next issue (Issue 10). The minimum term is six issues. Your personalised Great Food Club membership card may take up to six weeks to arrive. Full terms & conditions at www.greatfoodmag.co.ukOpt-out option: If you want to join Great Food Club, then Great Food will need to contact you by email or by post with details of offers. If you’d prefer not to be contacted by post or email, and therefore not join Great Food Club (and so subscribe only), please tick here [ ].

YOUR DETAILSMr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name .............................................................................................................................

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Address ..........................................................................................................................................................................

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SEND YOUR COMPLETED ORDER FORM AND CHEQUE FOR £17.50 TO:Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. Please make cheques payable to Rocco Media.

Or, to subscribe online, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and click ‘subscribe’.


WHY SUBSCRIBE?You’ll be able to look forward to a unique magazine that focuses on local food and drink. You will also get free membership to Great Food Club, enabling you to save money with local restaurants and producers using your membership card.

SUBSCRIBE AND GET FREE MEMBERSHIP AT WWW.GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK OR FILL OUT THIS

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FOR LOVERS OF GOOD LOCAL FOOD Six issues of Great Food

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The Confident Cook

Saltby Pasture

RUTLAND PRESERVESRutland Preserves was established by Emma Dodson and Karen Taylor from Whissendine earlier this year. Emma and Karen, who met while playing netball together, make preserves using locally sourced ingredients wherever possible, including apples from their own gardens. Stockists include Farndon Fields Farm Shop and The Melton Cheeseboard.rutlandpreserves.co.uk

SPICE FUSIONSMother and daughter team Parisha and Rama Mistry from Loughborough has created Spice Fusions, authentic and easy-to-use curry pastes in small plastic containers that come in packets of three – one for meat, one for fish and one for vegetables. Each packet comes with basic recipes.spicefusions.com

MOREFRESHMorefresh has launched a new service in Birmingham and Warwickshire delivering locally sourced produce to front doors. The brainchild of founder Phil Meredith, who previously worked for Thames restaurant cruise company Bateaux London, all Morefresh suppliers are handpicked, including Fowlers of Earlswood (cheese). The new service has created 10 new jobs.morefresh.co.uk

BORN & BREADLeicester Born & Bread is a new part-time bread-baking business based in Leicester’s West End. Creator Jessica Edmonds uses flour from Leicestershire’s Claybrooke Mill and bakes a variety of loaves.leicesterbornandbread.co.uk

TOMS FUDGEThree Loughborough University students have founded Toms Fudge, a confectionery brand that is proving popular at local markets. tomsfudge.co.uk

I! "i#

Samantha Scott, 32, from Kibworth has launched a mobile cookery school in the

Leicestershire area called The Confident Cook. ”The unique thing about the courses is that

they are held in the customers’ homes,” said Samantha. “By learning in your own kitchen you

absorb information more easily.”Before setting up The Confident

Cook, Samantha worked in the music industry, cooking for bands on tour, including Bon Jovi.

“All courses are bespoke to customers’ needs. My passion for food, ingredients sourcing and my informal teaching style create a lively and fun environment in which to learn.” Call 07969 912234 for further details.

At the East Midlands Food Festival (see p22) one of the most delicious things that Great

Food tasted was a rosé veal and cranberry burger from Saltby Pasture. Managed by Annie Wright, Saltby Pasture is a private 30-acre smallholding near Melton Mowbray that focuses on rearing Lincoln Longwool sheep and rosé veal calves.

“We’re a relatively new business in that we’ve recently started to become more focused on selling directly to the public. Our aim is to maximise the health of our land and animals and produce fantastic-tasting meat,” said Annie, who also works as a chiropractor. “Our calves have free access to forage at all times and are kept outside except during the wettest winter months, when they move indoors to airy looseboxes. They also get the benefit of my chiropractic skills!”

Saltby also produces hogget and mutton. Annie will be exhibiting at the Burghley Fine Food Market (see p19). Call 01664 430444 for further details.

Young couple launches high-quality meat brand

the oven$es% &t

Keeping an eye on the region’s food and drink launches

TORI AND BEN’S FARM

T ori and Ben Stanley took on their own farm near Diseworth, Derbyshire, 18 months ago, and have now launched the brand Tori and

Ben’s Farm (toriandbensfarm.com), specialising in Longhorn beef and Jacob lamb reared on their 150-acre farm, plus rare-breed Welsh pork raised at Brooksby College Farm. Their meat and Longhorn hides are sold through their website and at Loughborough, Lutterworth, Sutton Bonington, Ashby and Blaby farmers’ markets,

and at Nottingham Fine Food Market. “Before we took on our own farm, we were part of my parents’ farm – Blackbrook Traditional Meats at Grace Dieu in Leicestershire,” said Ben. “But we wanted our own identity, so now mum and dad handle the breeding side, while we focus on finishing.”

Tori and Ben, who have won many awards for their pedigree livestock, aim to “get the most out of every animal and focus on quality not quantity”. Call 07884 112812 for more details.


Ben and Tori Stanley with their Jack Russells.

Right: A trio of Longhorns

Samantha Scott with a student

Annie Wright is producing rosé veal and lamb

Ben & Tori’s burgers

Enjoy Christmas at The Farm Shop

Free Range Turkeys, Geese & Cockerels at the ButcherySucculent Hams & home baked Pork Pies at the Deli

Delicious home made Mince Pies and CakesA beautiful new range of gifts to make this Christmas

really special!

Fresh from the Farm this winterSeasonal vegetables including our Sprouts

on the Stalk and Wilja, Shannon &

Electra Potatoes.Don’t forget your very own Farndon

Fields Grown Christmas Tree!

The team atDuncan MurrayWines is at theready to advise onfestive food andwine pairings, greatgift ideas, partydrinks and much much more.

This Christmas, Duncan recommends:

• Festive Fizz: Blin Reserve Champagne (£32.99*) UK Exclusive• For the big bird: P-L & J-F Bersan Chablis ‘Les Ouches’ (£14.99*) Made by Leicester Tigers fan ‘Je! ’ Bersan’.• Cracking Claret: St-Georges St-Emilion (£17.99*) UK Exclusive*10% o! when you buy 6 bo"les or more.

10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LTTel: 01858 464935www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

Enjoy award-winning winesand advice this Christmas

This Christmas, simply relax and enjoy the high

quality, beautifully presented food at the Lake

Isle Hotel & Restaurant in Uppingham.

Christmas Fayre Menu:

For family and friends or work colleagues alike,

this menu is available from

1st �– 23rd December Monday to Saturday

lunchtime and also at dinner for parties of 8 or

more on Monday to Friday.

3-Course Menu for £18.50 per person.

Christmas Eve Dinner:

Start the festivities early with our sumptuous

4-Course Menu for £37.50 per person.

Christmas Day Lunch:

Stunning 5-Course celebration of Christmas for

£85 per person, served at 12 noon.

Boxing Day Lunch:

Here�’s a great excuse not to cook on Boxing

Day, our 3-Course lunch for £35 per person.

To discuss how you would like to celebrate the

festive season at the Lake Isle, just give us a call

on 01572 822951 or view all of our menus on

our website: www.lakeisle.co.uk

Celebrate

Christmas -

The Lake Isle Way

16 High Street East,

Uppingham, Rutland

LE15 9PZ


Cooking?What’s

Local ingredients plus top quality baking skills have seen Leicester baker Rosie Clark come out on top in the battle to find

a signature dish for Leicestershire. The people behind the Leicestershire Cook-Off felt the county needed a dish that could represent its residents in the style of the Cornish pasty or Yorkshire pudding. Leicester city centre management body Le-One selected finalists in four categories and staged a cook-off where their creations were tested by a panel of judges chaired by celebrity chef James Tanner.

Rosie’s winning dish was a combination of three loaves – a Leicester beer and honey bread (see opposite), a spicy rye bread, and a soda bread with Blue Stilton. She describes them as “a celebration of all that is good in Leicester”.

“I’m a total bread-head,” said Rosie. “I’m passionate about Leicester and its diversity, so when I saw the Leicestershire Cook-Off competition I was inspired to make a range of loaves that represented the different cultures within the city while using local ingredients.”

Rosie is also a ‘Bread Angel’, part of the Virtuous Bread network that aims to train craft bakers nationwide to make and sell real bread to their local communities. Based in Clarendon Park, Leicester, she not only bakes bread for friends and neighbours but is training others.

Other dishes making the finals included a venison curry with Red Leicester-stuffed naan from Amardeep Singh Amand, chef at Leicester’s Endimaj, inspired by a visit to Bradgate Park. Catering student Coralie Featherstone represented the aged 16-18 category with a dish of stuffed pork tenderloin with apple, mustard and honey, while the over-18s finalist was East Midlands Today newsreader Maurice Flynn, who cooked a delicately spiced apple and mulberry crumble cake.

Rosie Clarke received £1,000 of kitchenware courtesy of Fenwicks, John Lewis and Highcross and also got to see her loaves featured for a week at John Lewis Leicester’s restaurant.

* All the winning recipes can be found at www.leicestershirecookoff.co.uk

Breads are named Leicestershire’s Signature DishROSIE WINS COUNTY COOK-OFF


{ } “I was inspired to make a range of

loaves that represented the

diversity of Leicester and

Leicestershire”

Rosie Clark

THE WINNING RECIPE

Traditional Leicestershire Beer and Honey Bread * 300g Whissendine strong

wholemeal flour* 325g Claybrooke strong white flour* 7g dried yeast * 5g salt* 150ml Everards Tiger ale* 150ml warm water* 2 tbsp Leicestershire honey

* 20g Leicestershire butter

1 Proof the yeast for 10 minutes with some of the water. 2 Once frothy, mix it with all other ingredients in a bowl, and turn out onto the worktop. Knead for 10 mins – aim for a sticky consistency. 3 Put back in bowl, cover with tea towel and let it double in size for about one hour. 4 Take out of bowl, knead a little and then shape so that it fits in a tin or whatever shape you desire. Cover again and rest for 45 minutes until doubled in size. 5 Bake in a pre-heated oven at Gas 6 (200°C) for about 30 mins. Test by knocking the loaf’s base – it will sound hollow when done.

Rosie with the judges, including James Tanner

(third from left) and Philip Sharpe from Maiyango (far left)

Local ingredients impressed the judges

Fresh, local, seasonal food and a warm welcome at Barnsdale Lodge

The Avenue, Rutland Water, Nr Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH [email protected] www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

Barnsdale Lodge Hotel is set in a unique rural location in the heart of glorious Rutland countryside.

We have a delicious Christmas menu with locally sourced ingredients.• Morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea & dinner • Delicious food prepared with fresh locally

sourced, seasonal ingredients including beef from Hambleton Farm, berries and asparagus from Manton Farm and Rutland Water trout

• Private dining • Weddings • Conferences • Exclusive hire of the whole hotel possible • Vicienté Beauty treatment & therapy room

Bring your party to ours! From £26 pp for dinner and disco. For bookings or more info please call, email or visit the website.

Last few available rooms Christmas/New Year.

Packages available from £440 pp for 3 nights

The Granary, The Wartnaby Estate, Wartnaby, Leicestershire, LE14 3HY

Available mail order from

www.cherizena.co.uk or by calling 01664 820111.

Leicestershire-based Cherizena Coffee has a festive selection to suit all budgets, with Christmas gifts from £2.50. Choose from presentation boxes, Christmas coffee packs, chocolate-coated coffee beans and a whole lot more…

See us at the Victorian Christmas Fayre, Melton Mowbray, December 4th.

Cherizena is a leading UK specialist producer of coffee and sources premium, rare and speciality coffees, as well as creating its own range of superb fl avoured coffees.

Christmas giftscoffeelovers

for


Events & things to doNovember and December are full of festive food events. Here are some of our picks

Great Food recommends...

THINGS TO DO


Local food do’s taking place in the build-up to Christmas

NOVEMBERNovember 19-201 FABULOUS PLACES

CHRISTMAS MARKET, DERBYFabulousplaces.co.uk champions individual shops and local makers in Derbyshire and Notts. Site creator Deb Kendall also organises Fab Places’ Christmas Market. £1 entry (free for under 10s); 10am-4pm; The Roundhouse, Pride Park, Derby.

November 19-20BELTON HOUSE CHRISTMAS FOOD & CRAFT MARKETEnglish country house Belton will feel festive during this November weekend. As well as food and craft stalls, there’ll be seasonal music and Christmas lunch served in the restaurant (12-2pm). Free event but normal National Trust admission charges apply; 11am-4pm both days; nationaltrust.org.uk/beltonhouse

November 26-27CHRISTMAS FOOD & GIFT FAIR, LINCOLNSHIRE EVENTS CENTRELincs was recently voted Britain’s favourite food county in an online poll. Try some of its famous sausages, chine, haslet, plum bread and more at the excellent Lincolnshire Events Centre. £5 on the door or £4 in advance; 10am-5pm both days; lincolnshireshowground.co.uk

November 26-December 23CHRISTMAS PARTIES AT MAIYANGO, NOV 26-DEC 23Leicester’s local producer-supporting hotel, restaurant and deli is a great place to celebrate and is offering package deals for Christmas parties. The organiser gets a special treat, too. From £36.95 per person; maiyango.com

November 262 COOKING WITH GAME,

SHIRES COOKERY SCHOOLLearn to cook the following to perfection: game pie, grilled Northamptonshire wood pigeon andShires pheasant paté. The Shires School is located at the Red Lion pub, East Haddon, so you can go for a drink and lunch afterwards too. £125; day course; shirescookeryschool.com Throughout November & DecemberHAMBLETON HALL PARTIES Celebrate Christmas in true style by partying in the supreme comfort of Hambleton Hall. Between six and 60 guests can enjoy canapés, a

Dates for your diary

LEICESTER WINTER FOOD FESTIVAL, NOV 20Leicester’s large city centre market will once again be filled with the smell of mulled wine and street food on November 20 when it hosts its

third Winter Food Festival. Expect over 200 stalls and food demos – a good chance to get Christmas gifts early. Free entry; 11am to 5pm; leicestermarket.co.uk

BBC WINTER GOOD FOOD SHOW, NOV 23-27Held at Birmingham’s NEC, this huge event has so much going on it’s ridiculous. Attended by over 400 exhibitors, there’s a

Producers’ Village and you can see James Martin, Rick Stein and Michael Caines do their things. 9am-6pm all days; £20.50; bbcgoodfoodshow.com

3

RUTLAND CHRISTMAS MARKETS, DEC 8 & 12The pretty Rutland towns of Uppingham and Oakham get all Christmassy on the evenings of December 8 and 12 respectively

when food and drink stalls are set up in the town centres and shops stay open till late. Expect carols, Santa in his Grotto and plenty of mulled wine in both towns. 5pm-9pm; free; discover-rutland.co.uk

5

CHRISTMAS BAKING AT THE ARTISAN SCHOOL, DEC 10Would you like to amaze Christmas guests with your spectacular stollen and magnificent mince pies? Then book yourself onto this one-day course at

the School of Artisan Food near Worksop, run by baker extraordinaire Emmanuel Hadjiandreou. Your marzipan and enriched doughs will never be the same again. 9.30am-5pm; £150; schoolofartisanfood.org

4

CHATSWORTH CHRISTMAS MARKETS, NOV 11-13 & 18-20 Enjoy great local food in the shadow of Chatsworth at two weekend Christmas markets taking place in the grounds of the grand Derbyshire house.

Chatsworth is a great place in which to get into the festive spirit and the house and nearby farm shop are worth visiting. 10am to 5pm each day; £2 car park charge; chatsworth.org

2

Please check with organisers of all events before setting off

“Buying an excessive

number of pies from Melton’s Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe is obligatory”

three-course dinner and coffee with no charge for private room hire. £37.50 per person (subject to availability); hambletonhall.com

Throughout NovemberCHRISTMAS SHOPPING AT EASTON WALLED GARDENSEaston Walled Gardens near Colsterworth comprise 12 acres of peaceful, tamed greenery dating back to at least 1592. On Sundays throughout November entry is free, so you can stroll through the grounds, tick off some gifts in the Christmas shop and then visit the tearoom. 11am-4pm; eastonwalledgardens.co.uk

DECEMBERDecember 3-43 BURGHLEY FINE FOOD

MARKET, STAMFORDBurghley is probably the finest Elizabethan house in Britain. If its local produce-focused fine food market – held in The Stable Courtyard in association with Tastes of Lincolnshire – is as tasty as the setting, then visitors are in for a treat. Burghley’s Orangery Restaurant, designed by Capability Brown, is also worth a visit. Free; 10am-4pm; burghley.co.uk

December 44 VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS

FAYRE, MELTON MOWBRAYIf you like a taste of the 19th century without the horse muck and child labour, the Victorian Christmas Market in Great Food’s home town of Melton Mowbray is a must. Buying an excessive number of pies from Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe on Nottingham St is obligatory too. Free; 10am-4pm

December 6COOKING DEMO BY SEAN HOPE, RED LION, STATHERNWatch Rutland’s Food Ambassador and Michelin-starred chef Sean Hope make it look easy at his final Red Lion demo of 2011. You’ll go home full of information and with a contented stomach. £40; 10am-3pm; theredlioninn.co.uk

December 9-11CHRISTMAS AT KELMARSHThis event at 18th century Kelmarsh Hall, five miles from Market Harborough, begins with a charity shopping evening on the Friday (5pm-9pm, £7.50). On Saturday and Sunday there is a food and gift fair – adults £5, under-14s free; 10am-4pm both days; stonehouse-events.co.uk

December 16-17NOTTINGHAM FESTIVE FINE FOOD MARKETThe last of Nottingham’s regular Fine Food Markets before Christmas is sure to be a festive affair. Held in the Old Market Square. Free; 9am-4.30pm; foodanddrinkforum.co.uk

December 155 CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKING

WINE TASTING AT AMPHORA WINES, COLD OVERTONSip a variety of fabulous handpicked fizz with ex-Le Gavroche sommelier Patrick Whenham-Bossy at Amphora Wines at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton. Unearth the best for Christmas. amphora-wines.co.uk

December 18CALKE ABBEY CHRISTMAS FINE FOOD FAIR, TICKNALLEnjoy the faded glory of Calke Abbey and get stocked up with local goodies grown, raised or baked within a 30-mile radius of the grand Derbyshire estate. 11am-4pm; free event but normal National Trust admission charges apply; nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-calkeabbey


Events

4

1

23

For a regularly

updated events diary, go to greatfood mag.co.uk

5

THINGS TO DO


Hidden away down a tiny lane in Loughborough’s town centre, a ganache-

splattered Peter Gardner mixes chocolate from the four corners of the globe with complex flavours to create delicious truffles. The ambitious 30-year-old chocolate alchemist founded his brand and Loughborough shop – Chocolate Alchemy – from scratch in 2009, very much in his own image.

As well as making delicacies sold at Chocolate Alchemy in his first floor development room, Peter runs popular chocolate-making workshops. Two chocolate lovers – Philippa

couldn’t resist heading to Chocolate Alchemy to give it a go.

At the workshopIn Peter’s full two-hour workshop, you get coffee on arrival, plus a talk on the origins of cocoa; you then move on to a tasting session in which you try chocolate from nine different countries, before having a go at truffle making and combining flavours. You take home what you make and it’s worth avoiding chocolate for several days beforehand – overdose on the day is obligatory.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the workshop is

(“everyone’s favourite and by far the most expensive,” says Peter) is fruity, sweet and complex, whereas Mexican is dark, deep and bitter. Peter explains: “The reason they taste so different is because of the conditions in which the beans grow – factors like how much rain and sun they get, soil type and annual rainfall, plus more complex things like cross pollination. It’s the same principle as terroir with wine.”

Before the truffle-making session begins, Peter imparts yet more impressive knowledge. Apparently, there is one lonely chocolate tree in Britain – at Cornwall’s Eden Project – and seeing as the cocoa-growing belt is 26 degrees either side of the equator (pretty much the same as coffee) there’s no chance that we’re going to be growing cocoa in the Heart of England any time soon. But all is not lost – St Helena, a tiny island and British colony in the South Atlantic Ocean, has the potential to grow chocolate. “I’ve spoken with the island’s agricultural commission and they are indeed looking at growing cocoa,” says

Left: Chocolate Alchemy’s Peanut Butter Cups Right: Workshop fun

‘Sampling chocolate produced in different areas of the world is fascinating’

Truffle time!CHOCOLATE MAKING

Peter. “If they do it will be the only true British chocolate. But there’s no airport on St Helena – and getting there takes two days.”

Rolling truffles and making your own chocolates is a great way to round off a thoroughly educational workshop. As you wander back out onto Loughborough High Street, not only are you full of high-quality chocolate, you’re also crammed with fantastic information.

Above: Philippa (white necklace) and Hazel get truffle rolling. Right: Peter’s white chocolate truffles

Maffioli, wife of Great Food editor Matt Wright, and Hazel Patterson, manager of Hotel Maiyango’s new Deli Kitchen –

sampling chocolate grown in different parts of the world. The differences in taste are stunning. For example, Hawaiian chocolate Peter aims to build

Chocolate Alchemy into a well-known British brand and turn Loughborough into the UK’s chocolate capital. He now has two partners who have bought into his vision – British Olympic athlete Lisa Dobriskey and her husband Ricky Soos. They invested in the business after attending one of Peter’s workshops.

WHEN? By arrangement (private sessions) – up to a maximum of five people.

WHERE? Chocolate Alchemy, Loughborough.

PRICE? From £35 each for a two-hour session.

COURSEFACT FILE

THE CHOCOLATIER

Having heard good things about Chocolate Alchemy’s workshops, we gave one a go...

CONTACTChocolate Alchemy, 5 Church Gate Mews, Loughborough, Leics LE11 1TZ, 01509 238113, chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

Hardly a day goes by without a party at Langar Hall. Birthday parties,

wedding anniversaries, of ce parties, re-unions or just a meeting of friends who can relax and enjoy themselves in their private dining room with their own waiter to look after them.

In December candlelight and sensational Christmas decorations add to the air of festivity. Please book early!

Tables of 10 or less may choose from the daily menus. You will nd the party menus on the Langer Hall web site.

To arrange meetings, weddings and private parties please contact Pascal [email protected]

Every party has their own private dining room according to size and their own waiter.

We can offer alternative dishes to those with special dietary requirements or allergies.

Langar HallA LOVELY PLACE TO STAY, A SPECIAL PLACE TO EAT

LANGAR HALL BOUTIQUE HOTEL & RESTAURANT �• LANGAR �• NOTTINGHAMSHIRE �• ENGLAND �• NG13 9HG

Sunday and Monday night dinner: two courses £25, three courses £30

Daily lunch menu - Two courses £16.50, extra course for £5.00

And the A la Carte Menu

Traditional Sunday lunch Three courses and coffee £29.50

Dinner Menu Tuesday - Friday Two courses £20.00 And the A la Carte

Menu. Sunday a la carte Dinner Menu served from 6.30pm �– 9.30pm

Afternoon Tea £15.00 Served in the Garden Room from 4pm - 6pm

Drop in for breakfast or morning coffee. Langar is the perfect meeting

place at any time

AUTUMN AND WINTER SUNDAY AND MONDAY

NIGHT SPECIAL.Dinner Bed and Breakfast for

two from £145 - £200

M ND WINNDDD WMN AAMNNN AAAANANANDNN ANANANANANANNDDDDD

Award Winning Pub

12 St Pauls Street, Stamford, PE9 2BE Tel: 01780 [email protected] www.tobienorris.com

A charming building with 7 unique rooms over 3 floors

and a large enclosed patio We have 5 real ales including our own White Hart Ale and an expansive wine list that we import ourselves from around the world. We specialise in stone baked,handmade pizzas, plus a wide range of other dishes.


More than 10,000 flock to Britain’s pork pie capital

Right: Hedgerow jams are handmade in Leicestershire. Below: Helen Wood

and Shami Doshi of Leicester’s Helsham Chocolates. Below right:

Michael Darling, miller at Cogglesford Mill in Sleaford

elton Mowbray’s cattle market played host to the East Midlands Food & Drink festival on October 1-2. In many ways there is no more fitting festival venue than Melton’s cattle

market: the town’s food heritage is second to none and the market is where produce has been traded for centuries. Over 10,000 food-lovers baked in the hot weather and enjoyed around 200 stands serving mainly local food and drink.

M


East Midlands Food & Drink

OUT & ABOUT

• EAS

T M

IDLA

NDS FOOD & DRINK 2011 •

!" fe#iva$

Main picture: Annie Wright, who produces lamb, mutton and veal at Saltby Pasture near Melton

Mowbray, keeps customers happy with some delicious tasters

Great Food Magazine 00Great Food Magazine 23

Left: Mark Hughes, founder of Northants’ Taste Gourmet Spice. Right: Cheeses from

Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Company. Below:

Ron Edgar, the man behind Marron Cider

& Wine of Market Rasen, Lincs

Below right: Luke Hartland from Mrs King’s Pork Pies, Cotgrave – current holders of the Champion Melton Mowbray Pork Pie AwardEast Midlands Food & Drink Festival 2011

Above: Rob and Webb Freckingham of Nottingham’s Cheese Shop.

Below: Colourful handmade liqueurs from Marron Cider & Wine

Above: Jeremy Cooper from Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese of Alford, Lincs. Below: Mark Jones

(left) and Denis Gwatkin of Gwatkin Cider, Abbey Dore, Herefordshire

Far left: Bob Pitchfork, founder of Mr Pitchfork’s

Pickles, Nottingham. Above: Parisha (left)

and Rama Mistry from Spice Infusions,

Loughborough. Left: John Lewis

Leicester café team (l-r) Kalvin Coombe, Darren Elliott and

Leon Marvin

Light a log fire and pour yourself a large glass of mulled wine. Absorb your itinerary for Christmas Day – recipes by Sean Hope


What culinary delights have you got planned for Christmas Day? Melton Mowbray pork pie with Champagne for breakfast followed by as many pigs

in blankets as you can fit in? The Red Lion in Leicestershire’s Vale of Belvoir – which has just retained its Michelin Bib Gourmand – has a plan. And it begins with a Stathern Mule...

12 noon Pre-dinner drink A feisty little devil to kick-start Christmas

1.30pm Starter A refreshing, colourful dish to begin

Beetroot escabeche1 Sweat off all the ingredients except the coriander in the olive oil until soft (about five minutes). 2 Allow to cool before adding the chopped coriander, then chill for a couple of hours before serving.

Horseradish cream1 Whip the cream with lemon juice and seasoning till peaked.2 Gently fold in horseradish and chill.

Pan-seared mullet1 In a hot pan, add a little rapeseed oil. Score the fillets on the skin side with a sharp knife, then lay skin-side down and pan-fry for two minutes.2 Season the fish with a little salt and pepper, flip the fillets over to finish the cooking and remove from the heat.3 Add a squeeze of lemon and serve.

Pan-seared red mullet and beetroot escabeche

Serves 4Beetroot escabeche

* 150ml olive oil

* 100ml sherry vinegar

* 1 onion, thinly sliced

* Zest 1/2 orange, finely shredded

* 1 beetroot, finely shredded

* 1 carrot, finely sliced

* 1 sprig thyme * 1 bay leaf

* 5 pink peppercorns

* 1 sprig rosemary

* 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

* 1 tbsp chopped coriander

Horseradish cream

* 150ml double cream

* 1 tablespoon horseradish relish

* Juice 1/2 lemon

* Pinch of salt and pepper

Seared mullet

* 2 red mullet, gutted, filleted and pin-boned

Why not start with something a bit different?

Red Lio!’s p"fectTHE STATHERN MULE* 25ml Lamb’s Navy Rum

(or any dark rum)

* 250ml Belvoir Ginger Beer Pressé

* 1 slice lime

* Dash Belvoir Apple & Ginger Cordial

* 5 ice cubes

1 Rub the rim of your glass with lime slice and then squeeze the lime into your glass.2 Fill your glass with ice cubes and add a shot of rum (or a little more – oh come on, it is Christmas!).3 Top up with ginger beer and finish with a dash of cordial.

1 Start the day before you want to steam the pudding. Mix all the dry ingredients, including the suet, in a large mixing bowl. 2 Mix in liquid ingredients. The mixture should have a fairly sloppy consistency. Cover. Leave overnight.3 Pack mixture into a lightly greased

pudding basin, cover with two sheets of baking parchment and a sheet of foil. Tie with string. Prepare a steamer and steam for four hours. You can eat now or cool and store for up to three months in a cool, dark place, resteaming for two hours before serving.4 Serve with custard or brandy butter.

3pm Pudding Guinness is the magic ingredient!

Christmas pudding Serves 10

* 110g suet

* 50g self-raising flour

* 110g breadcrumbs

* 1 tsp mixed spice

* 1 pinch nutmeg

* 1 pinch cinnamon

* 225g dark brown sugar

* 110g sultanas

* 25g mixed peel

* 25g chopped almonds

* 1 large dessert apple

* Zest 1/2 an orange

* Zest 1/2 a lemon

* 2 eggs, beaten

* 125ml Guinness

* 125 ml rum

* 1/4 can barley wine

The prelude to many a sofa-based snooze


Home cookingC!"tm# da$Partridge 1 In a hot frying pan with a drizzle of rapeseed oil and a couple of knobs of butter, seal the birds on all four sides until golden brown (about five minutes). This will give the partridge some colour.2 Place in a preheated oven (Gas Mark 6 or 200°C) and roast with a clove of garlic and a sprig of thyme for 12 minutes (partridge don’t need long).3 Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a further 10 minutes before serving.

Root vegetables1 Place all the vegetables into a saucepan, cover with water, season and bring to boil. When just cooked, remove from the heat and allow to cool.2 To finish veg, cook in a hot frying pan with a little oil until golden brown,

drizzling with clear honey. Add a dash of lemon juice or sherry vinegar to serve.

Bread sauce1 Sweat off the shallot and garlic until soft. Add the bread and stir.2 Add the wines and cook off the alcohol by boiling for two-three minutes.3 Remove from the heat and blend with the butter and cream until smooth. Season to taste before serving.

Game chips1 Drain the water from the sliced potatoes and heat clean vegetable oil in a fryer to 160°C.2 Carefully drop the slices into the hot fryer in small handfuls and fry to a golden brown. When cooked, remove from the fryer and drain on kitchen paper.

Serves 4 * 4 oven-ready partridge

* Sprig fresh thyme

* 1 carrot, peeled, washed, roughly chopped

* 1 parsnip, peeled, washed, roughly chopped

* 1 turnip, peeled, washed, roughly chopped

* 4 slices bread, broken up

* 1 shallot, finely chopped

* 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

* 1 glass Madeira/Sherry

* 1 glass dry white wine

* Butter & rapeseed oil

* 2 tbsp cream

* 2 Maris Piper potatoes, peeled, sliced thinly on a mandoline, then washed under cold water for four minutes

Roast local partridge, root veg, game chips and bread sauce2pm Lunch Simplify Christmas with quick-cook partridge

CONTACT The Red Lion Inn, Red Lion Street, Stathern, Leicestershire LE14 4HS, 01949 860868, theredlioninn.co.uk

The Red LionThere’ll be log fires, real ales, roast chestnuts on the bar and mulled wine at the Red Lion over the festive season. They’re

open for lunch and dinner throughout

My Christmas DayHow some of the local food champions we’ve

featured over the past 12 months will spend December 25

Andrew Fear, farmer and maker of Thirsty Farmer Cider. Lives in

Sutton Bonington, Notts “I’m up at 6am to feed the

sheep, pigs and horses. Doing some work on Christmas Day is

great because the exercise means you enjoy the day a lot more. I always do the cooking

and we have a goose with all the trimmings and wine. Then it’s back out for a few more farm

jobs before watching the Queen’s Speech in front of a log fire.”

THE FARMER

Nigel Moon, miller at Whissendine Windmill in Rutland

“I spend Christmas Day with the door locked and phone off

the hook! By the time December 25 arrives I need the peace and quiet. Mum and I will share a small pheasant and a Christmas

pud I’ve scrounged from someone! The only thing that

keeps me going at Christmas is the comforting thought I’m

not a turkey farmer!”

THE MILLER

Stephen Hallam, managing directory of Ye Olde Pork Pie

Shoppe, Melton Mowbray

“What time I get up depends on how I spent Christmas Eve but I always have a slice of pork pie

for breakfast – not to do so would be blasphemous! Then I take Eddie the Poodle for a walk around the fields before getting back to cook lunch. We

have turkey with all the trimmings, including roast potatoes cooked in ghee.”

THE PIE MAKER

Lee Sylvester (pictured right, with mother Monica Cudjoe) of Tan

Rosie Foods, Birmingham

“For breakfast we have homemade bread with fried

saltfish. Lunch involves turkey, mum’s rice and peas, plus yams

and sweet potatoes. We also enjoy Caribbean fruit cake made with Jack Iron rum. There’s plenty of Soca music and in

the evening we’ll Skype relatives in the Caribbean.”

THE CARIBBEAN COOK

Gerald Botterill (pictured left with son Richard), of Botterill’s Geese &

Turkeys, Croxton Kerrial, Leics

“Years ago we used to have turkey with artichokes in white

sauce for Christmas lunch without fail. We don’t have

artichokes anymore but do have turkey, in spite of processing 5000 birds on the farm in the run up to December 25. We enjoy sherry before lunch,

Batemans beer during and for supper we have more turkey!”

THE TURKEY PRODUCER

Sean Hope, head chef and proprietor, The Olive Branch,

Clipsham, and Red Lion, Stathern

“The kids will wake me up at 5am and we’ll watch them open their presents. Then I’ll go to the pubs for an 8.30am start.

I’ll cook my staff a fry-up and give them glasses of Buck’s Fizz. Then lunch service will start at noon and run till 3pm. When all

guests have left we’ll tidy up ready for a busy Boxing Day.”

THE CHEF/PUB OWNER

Jason Horeesorun, founder of Mauritian Street Food, Nottingham

“At my mum’s place in Lancashire, mum cooks

traditional English Christmas dinner with turkey for me, and

Mauritian prawn curry for herself. There’s always Buck’s Fizz for breakfast! Over at the

in-law’s at Empingham, Rutland, we tend to have a three-bird roast and fly

remote-control aeroplanes in the afternoon.”

THE STREET FOOD SELLER

Matt Gregory, Great Food writer, forager and fisherman, from

Oakham, Rutland

”I start with cold smoked Rutland Water trout; for lunch it’s roast woodcock or partridge

with blewit mushrooms, potatoes in lard and sprouts with bacon. There will be the

best Prosecco all morning, single vineyard Barbera at lunch and as much Sloe Gin as is required to get through present opening.”

THE FORAGER

FOOD PEOPLE


HOME TO JIMMY’S SMOKEHOUSE. SMOKERS AND CURERS OF MEAT AND FISH

HOMHHOME TE T JO JO JIMMIMM ’Y’SY S

7 COMFORTABLE ROOMS

Fosse Meadows

www.fossemeadows.co.uk07886 340 752 - 01455 202702

TFTA approved

Free-range

All birds come boxed and with recipe leafl etOrders can be collected from the farmgate or delivered nationally

Fosse Meadows Farm, Sharnford Rd, Frolesworth, Lutterworth, Leicester, LE17 5EE

GreatFood discount10% discount on turkey & cockerel orders simply type

the code ‘GREAT’ into our website to redeem the coupon. 10%

Free-Range Slow GrownAdditive FreeTraditionally reared Cockerels and Turkeys

HAPPY BIRDS TASTE

BETTER

LONG CLAWSON CHEESE SHOPOpen from Thursday 1st December

Hickling Lane, Long Clawson, LE14 4PJ Tel: 01664 822332

Monday – Friday 8.30am – 4.30pmSaturday 8.30am – 12.30pmSunday – ClosedThe shop will cease trading on Friday23rd December at 4.30pm

OPENING TIMES Visit our website www.clawson.co.uk for further details & directions. Stay in touch with us on facebook www.facebook.com/clawsondairy Share a Tweet with us on Twitter www.twitter.com/clawsondairyltd

Pat, Mauricia & Lisa are ready to extend awarm and friendly welcome once again thisDecember to the Long Clawson DairyCheese Shop. The entrance on Hickling Lane leads to amplecar parking for all. The shop continues to offera fantastic range of cheese for the festive Season.

Stilton® in a variety of cuts and anabundance of cheese blends to try thenbuy will be available. We look forward to seeing you!


RECIPE


1 Carefully butter and sugar four large soufflé pots. 2 In a thick-bottomed pan, whisk yolk and sugar together. In a separate bowl, mix the cream with the flour and cornflour and add the vanilla seeds. Pour cream mixture into the pan containing the yolk and sugar. Now bring to the boil, whisking all the time until the mixture thickens. 3 Crumble the Christmas pudding into the thick pastry cream and flavour with the brandy. 4 Whisk the egg whites and gradually add the sugar to taste until whites are thick, smooth and glossy. 5 Whisk a third of the whites through

the pudding mix and then carefully fold through the rest of the egg whites until evenly incorporated. 6 Fill the soufflé moulds with the mix and level with a palette knife. Make sure the pots are clean before putting them in the oven. 7 Cook for six minutes at Gas 6 (200°C). Serve with vanilla ice cream or brandy cream.

Use half a vanilla pod for

the pastry cream

Aaron Patterson’s Christmas Pudding Soufflé

Serves 4* 300g ready-made

Christmas pudding

* pint crème patissière (see recipe opposite)

* 10 egg whites

* Sugar and brandy to taste

Crème patissière:

* 150ml single cream

* 1 egg yolk

* tbsp plain flour

* tsp cornflour

* tbsp caster sugar

* vanilla pod, split

“If you want a Christmas dessert that doesn’t nail you to the floor, this is for you,” says Aaron Patterson, head chef at Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall in Rutland. “It’s rich and festive but light enough to give you a better chance of

avoiding that post-Christmas lunch slump.” Sounds good to us – and it leaves more room for the

cheeseboard on the opposite page.

“If you want a Christmas dessert that doesn’t nail you to the floor then this is for you”

Samos Nectar. Grape: Muscat.This is special but don’t just take our word for it – the Vatican also

enjoys this Greek sweetie. The grapes are air-dried and then the wine is aged in barrels. The taste

is spice, honey, nuts, sultanas and baked apples – an irresistible Christmas

dessert companion. Price: £9.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

DESSERT WINE

CONTACTHambleton Hall, Hambleton, Rutland LE15 8TH, 01572 756991, hambletonhall.com

Cheese


The perfect Christmas cheeseboard

HOW TO CREATE...

Stilton-based creation blended with dried cranberries, which give a rich, fruity flavour. Its sweetness provides the perfect antidote for more savoury and salty blue cheeses.

4. Norfolk White Lady A soft cheese with a difference – it’s made with ewes’ milk. This is produced by Jane Murray at her award winning creamery near Wymondham, Norfolk. White Lady is a brie-like soft-rind cheese, which heightens in flavour and texture as it ripens.

5. CharnwoodAnother favourite from Long Clawson Dairy, this is a medium matured, smoke-flavoured Cheddar, lightly dusted with paprika. Its subtle wood smoke aroma will add another dimension to your cheeseboard.

6. Sage Derby from Fowlers This mellow cheese is layered and topped with a sprinkling of sage, and made to a recipe that’s more than 100 years old. It has a fresh, clean flavour – great for perking up a jaded palate.

7. Lincolnshire Poacher For a mature, strong cheese, this takes some beating. One of our best sellers, Lincolnshire Poacher is made on a farm in Ulceby by Tim and Simon Jones using unpasteurised milk and animal rennet. Matured for more than a year, this hard cheese has a strong, nutty flavour and a clean, sweet finish.

1. Sparkenhoe Leicester Made on Jo and David Clarke’s farm near Market Bosworth to an authentic recipe using unpasteurised milk and animal rennet, this is a lovely, mellow cheese – very more-ish – that will also add colour to the cheeseboard.

2. Blue Stilton from Long Clawson Dairy No cheeseboard is complete without the King of English cheeses. Make sure it’s a well-blued mature cheese that’s creamy and mellow. At The Melton Cheeseboard this is our signature Blue Stilton – guaranteed to please.

3. White Stilton loaded with cranberriesCranberries are a Christmas fruit, and that’s why I’ve chosen this. Another from Long Clawson, it’s a crumbly White

F or me, it’s impossible to contemplate a meal at Christmas without cheese, whether as a course after the main event or as part of a buffet. And if I don’t get my Stilton fix, then, well... God help my guests! Here’s my perfect

Christmas cheeseboard – this will be particularly good on Boxing Day when friends and family can help themselves, accompanied by a tangy chutney.

To go with your cheeses, make sure you have a range of biscuits and chutneys. My suggestion this year is a

product called Toast for Cheese, made by the Fine Cheese Company. This was new out in the autumn and comes in three flavours that go really well with cheese – I particularly like the Cherry, Almond and Linseed variety. Accompanied by Spiced Plum Chutney – made with local produce by two lovely ladies from Rutland Preserves in Whissendine (see p14) – you have the perfect cheeseboard. Serve it with raw ingredients such as grapes, apples, tomatoes, parsley, celery or pickles. Don’t be afraid to unleash your imagination!

By Tim Brown from The Melton Cheeseboard

1

2 3

4

6

7

5

CONTACTTim Brown runsThe Melton Cheeseboard: 8 Windsor Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 1BU, meltoncheese board.co.uk


Some of the finest locally produced artisan food to sample this Christmas

try this...Christmas coffeeWonderful flavours of rum, hazelnut,

cinnamon, and orange are packed into this coffee produced by Cherizena of Wartnaby,

Melton Mowbray. A Christmas must-have. Contact: 01664 820111,

cherizena.co.uk ,

Maiyango delicaciesHotel Maiyango’s new Kitchen Deli on Highcross Street in Leicester, sells a constantly changing range of artisan food made by head chef Phil Sharpe – chutneys, oils, homemade pastas and delicious patisserie, plus you can fill your face while you’re there! Contact: 0116 2518898, maiyango.com

PRICE: FROM £1.50

Farndon Fields HampersMarket Harborough-based Farndon Fields Farm Shop is offering a Christmas hamper gift-wrapping service. Just choose what you want to go in and they’ll do the rest.Contact: 01858 464838, farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

Alderton HamHam made to a special recipe – first it’s cured, then steamed and glazed with lashings of marmalade, before being baked very slowly, so the sweetness of the marmalade permeates all the meat. Made by The Country Victualler of Newark. Contact: 01933 622809, alderton.co.uk

Christmas puddingMade to a family recipe dating back to 1878 that

belonged to the producer’s grandmother, this Christmas pud is rich in rum and brandy-soaked vine fruit and nuts.

Contact: 01933 622809, alderton.co.uk

PRICE: £1.39

D&M hamperMelton Mowbray pork pie maker

Dickinson & Morris, 160 years old this year, has put together a luxury Christmas hamper. Stilton, Melton

Hunt Cake and, of course, pork pies are the tip of the iceberg. Contact: 01664 562341,

porkpie.co.uk

PRICE: £95 PRICE: £1.95

PRICE: £3/125g

PRICE: From £5.80

PRICE: £14-£100

PRICE: From £18

Lubcloud double cream

Made by Charnwood farmer Phil Newcombe using milk from his organic herd, this

deliciously thick local cream should be on your shopping

list this Christmas.

Contact: 01509 505055, lubclouddairy.co.uk

Manor Farm creamy yogurt Produced at a small dairy in Thrussington, Leicestershire, and crowned Best International New Dairy Product at the Nantwich Show last year, this tastes sublime. Perfect for Christmas puds.Contact: 01664 424245

Local Christmas food


PRICE: £60

PRICE: £1.90/100g

Cote Hill BlueAward-winning unpasteurised blue-veined cheese made on Michael and Mary Davenport’s farm near Market Rasen, and the only soft cheese made in Lincolnshire. Delicious and will enhance festive cheeseboards.

Contact: 01673 828481, cotehill.com

Mrs King’s piesAll hail the champion Melton Mowbray pork pie

of 2011! Mrs King’s of Cotgrave triumphed at the UK Pie Awards. Grab one and find out why.

Contact: 0115 9894101, mrskingsporkpies.co.uk

Brown & Green Derbyshire hamper

Brown & Green (see p72) sells food made by a variety of Heart of England producers. At its Derby store you make up your own DIY hamper or

choose one that’s ready-made. This Derbyshire-themed one includes beer from Derby Brewing Co, Derbyshire Honey and Delisha’s Red Pepper Jelly from Belper.

Contact: 01332 835244, brown-and-green.co.uk

PRICE: £3.85


try this...

Samuel Smith’s Raspberry AleSamuel Smith is a Yorkshire brewer but this tangy 5.1% ABV organic fruit beer is handcrafted at All Saints’ Brewery in Stamford, Lincolnshire, using antique brewing equipment. Thoroughly refreshing after all those robust winter beers and red wines. Cherry and strawberry beers are also brewed. Contact: 01937 832225, samuelsmithsbrewery.co.uk

PRICE: £10

Red McAdyThis 5% ABV winter ale from Derbyshire’s Tollgate Brewery is conditioned with a drop of Scotch. Hoppy, with elements of molasses. Contact: 01283 229194, tollgatebrewery.co.uk

SleighbellSleighbell is Leicestershire brewer Everards’ annual 4.5% ABV winter warmer. It’s rich, ruby red and tastes of Christmas without being hugely strong. Contact: 0116 2014100, everards.co.uk

Harvest PaleChristmas needn’t just be about heavy foods, wines and beers. Blonde bitter Harvest Pale from Nottingham’s Castle Rock is light and citrusy. Champion Beer of Britain in 2010. Contact: 0115 9851615, castlerockbrewery.co.uk

Grace Dieu Vineyard Dry WhiteBone-dry white made using Madeleine Angevine grapes grown at Grace Dieu vineyard near Whitwick, north-west Leicestershire. The vineyard was planted in 1991 on a granite outcrop of Charnwood Forest.

Contact: gracedieuvineyard.co.uk

PRICE: £2.50/pint

PRICE: £2.25/pintPenny

RedHalfpenny Green Vineyard is located 250 feet above sea level in South Staffs. Its first vines were planted in 1983. Medium Dry Penny Red is a Pinot Noir blend with a lingering aftertaste that goes well with strong cheese.Contact: 01384221122, halfpenny-green-vineyards.co.uk

PRICE: £8.50

PRICE: £1.89/500ml

PRICE: £2.25

Ales from seven local breweries and wines from four local vineyards

Local Christmas booze


PRICE: £1.99/500ml

Blue Brew Brewed in Old Dalby, Leicestershire by blending a small amount of Stilton whey with unfermented wort, this is a fascinating festive brew. Surprisingly subtle.Contact: 01664 823455, belvoir brewery.com

PRICE: £7.95

Chevelswarde WhiteRemarkable Chevelswarde Organic Vineyard near South Kilworth, Leicestershire, was planted by a 46-year-old John Daltry in 1973. Now 82, John and his wife Ruth still produce highly drinkable reds and whites. Available from John and Ruth’s farm shop.

Contact: Chevelswarde, Chevel House, The Belt, South Kilworth LE17 6DX, 01858 575309

Duck SoupThis rich, malty

Warwickshire Beer Co ale was first brewed for

Warwick University bar. Now it has spread its wings, winning a SIBA Gold Medal

at Nottingham Beer Fest.Contact: 01926 450747, warwickshirebeer.co.uk

PRICE: £2.20/500ml

NasebyThis red from Market Harborough vineyard Welland Valley is full-bodied, dry and aged in Burgundy oak, made using Rondo and Regent grapes. Its name refers to a an English Civil War battle, which took place near the vineyard in 1645. Contact: 01858 434591, welland-vineyard.com

Dusty PennyThis full-bodied porter from Flipside Brewery of

Colwick, Nottinghamshire, offers chocolate, caramel and vanilla flavours with a bitter finish.

Contact: 0115 9877500, flipsidebrewery.co.uk

PRICE: £7

PRICE: £2.10/500ml

LOCAL PRODUCER


O n an unassuming industrial estate in the shadow of Derbyshire’s Bolsover Castle, the

evocative aroma of beech and oak smoke fills the autumn air. The origin of the smell is Jaquest Smokery, a smoking and curing business that has been flavouring everything from olive oil to chorizo to mojama (wind-dried tuna) since 1989. The smokery is run by married couple John and Pauline Jaquest (the name is of Huguenot origin) who were named Derbyshire Food Heroes 2010/11 by Derbyshire County Council. John and Pauline were also recent stars of Channel 4’s Secret Supper Club. “We were filmed at Thornbridge Brewery down the road,” says John. “They wanted us to create a recipe linked to the brewery, so I took our minced smoked duck, wrapped it round boiled quail eggs, dipped them in milled toasted barley from Thornbridge and deep-fried them – the taste was electric.”

Long road to successThe Jaquests run a successful business from their factory-cum-deli supplying a range of high-quality outlets with a spectacular range of smoked and cured food (see ‘Huge Range’ box below). Stockists and buyers include Welbeck Farm Shop, The Three Horseshoes at Breedon, Nottingham’s Number 8 Deli and Gonalston Farm Shop. But getting to this point has been tough going.

HUGE RANGE...

Smoking smorgasboard“You name it, we smoke it,” says John. Jaquest smokes all sorts including Blue Stilton, olive oil, salt, paprika and garlic, while some of its more intriguing creations are Bolsover Smokie, The Beast (see far right), Coppa di Parma, Biltong and Hardwick Air Dried Ham. It’s clearly impressed food judges – Jaquest has won plenty of medals. The picture on the right shows John with Loyd Grossman (left) and Raymond Blanc winning a prize at the Derbyshire Food Fair several years ago.

Smokin’control. Buyers could – and did – cut us out, going straight to the producers. I realised that the only way to be in control was to manufacture my own food. I had no experience of smoking or curing but liked the idea. I read a few books and made some stuff that was inedible! But when you’re losing money you learn very quickly, and before long we’d won a prize at the Great Taste Awards in London and then the accolades kept coming.”

Simple and localJohn uses British produce for all his creations. “We smoke mainly local meats and work closely with Owen Taylor butchers in Alfreton. Our salmon comes from Shetland but local fishermen bring their catch in to be smoked and farmers send us their bacon for curing. Our cures are just sea salt and raw cane sugar, and we use simple herbs and spices. It’s how food used to be made years ago.”

John is particularly proud of his biltong, which South Africans travel from miles around to get hold of. “It’s cured silverside of beef marinated in pepper, fennel and other spices – it took three years to perfect the recipe.”

The smokersJaquest’s smokers are large, modern, metallic ovens that can be closely controlled to smoke quickly or slowly, hot or cool. “We smoke with both oak and beech,” says John. “Oak is more for flavour, while the beech – despite being a lighter wood – gives the food colour. Some things have to be smoked at a low temperature, such as Stilton. Foods like salmon that need smoking long and slow can be left overnight.”

Jaquest’s new website offering UK-wide delivery will be live soon – for more visit www.jaquest.co.uk

Self-taught Derbyshire smoker John Jaquest has perfected his art over two decades. Great Food went to sample his wares...

CONTACTJaquest Food Specialists, Bolsover Business Park, Bolsover S44 6BB 01246 827972, www.jaquest.co.uk

Jaquest’s air-dried biltong has won many South African fans

John and Pauline used to run pubs – including one near Sellafield before bad press surrounding the nearby nuclear site forced them to leave. “We lost pretty much everything then and came back to Derbyshire. In 1989 we set up as a food wholesaler, starting with a fridge, a cool box and a van. We sourced some superb ingredients from around the UK and knocked on the doors of restaurants and hotels all day, building up a good client base. But quickly we saw that we weren’t in

Parathas.

ChorizoAfter chorizo is cured, hung and at optimum dryness, it is then put into the smoker, which helps to create the distinctive, complex flavour.

The Beast! Named in honour of straight-talking left-wing Labour MP for Bolsover, Dennis Skinner – often referred to as The Beast – Jaquest’s chilli chorizo gives one hell of a kick. “It’s upfront and spicy, just like Mr Skinner!” says John. It’s cured, smoked pork with plenty of chilli and garlic added. The Beast would perk up many a dish and could make a fiesty starter served drizzled with olive oil.

Pastrami is made by marinating beef for a month before cooking

Smoking & curing

1 Before cold smoking your trout you need to salt it, season and hang for up to 24 hours.

1

DIY FOOD


Humans have been eating smoked food since we first discovered fire – your average caveman’s kitchen would have been a scraped-out

hollow for the fire and his cooking technique a vague hope that the cave didn’t fill up too much with smoke. The preserving qualities of smoke would have been noted as the winter wore on and the meat in the cave didn’t rot. Only later did the magical pairing of salt and

wood smoke give rise to fully preserved food. Salt, with its antibacterial and dehydrating qualities, combined with further drying and antioxidant action of wood smoke produced food that would last through a long winter and, importantly, taste delicious. Today, food’s ability to keep is secondary to how it tastes, due to refrigeration, vacuum packing and fast routes to market. We now smoke food because we like the flavour. Salt still plays an important role for taste, but levels are lower.

The two forms of smoking are hot-smoking – when food is cooked in a smoky atmosphere at temperatures similar to an oven – and cold smoking – when food is flavoured and preserved at temperatures not exceeding 30°C. Both methods have their merits and are achievable at home.

The art of smoking

Go big on flavour, says Matt Gregory

FLAVOURING & PRESERVING

Hot smokingYou probably already own a hot smoker – it’s the barbecue with the lid that you only use for keeping the rain out of it. In essence, if you put the lid on while cooking, you’re hot smoking. Cures can be much shorter compared with cold smoking, and a rest period is not necessary because the food will take the smoke more quickly at the higher temperatures. Cures can be more elaborate too as the risk of bacterial infection is lower. The trick is to rake the coals to one side of the barbecue and an excellent way to keep the food moist is to place an aluminium pan full of water in the space they have vacated. Cover the coals with sawdust and place the food on the grill over the water pan and close the lid, making sure all bottom vents are open. The temperature will climb slowly as the sawdust is burnt

through. There will be lots of smoke. Your food will be ready to eat as soon

as it comes out of the barbecue.

Matt Gregory’s smoking kit...For cold smoking: Wine barrel with a lid with bamboo sticks to hang food from (the smoking chamber); a metal bin in which to burn sawdust; ducting pipe where smoke cools before reaching food.For hot smoking: Barbecue with lid; aluminium pan to fill with water and place next to coals.

SMOKER TIPS1. Never use resinous, treated or chain-sawn

sawdust in your smoker as these will taint your food.

2. A tray of water in your hot smoker will help stop the food

drying out

A company called Savu produces a tin foil bag that has wood chips sealed inside. Unexpectedly, these work rather well. You simply slide half a chicken, or indeed your Sunday veg, into the bag, seal it up and pop it in the oven. The house does not smell of smoke and the food comes out with a distinct smoky aroma. Is it smoked? Not really, but it does taste nice and it’s dead easy to do. Try www.bushgear.co.uk.

Cheating

Cold smokingOur most beloved smoked foods are cold smoked: salmon, kippers and bacon being the most obvious. To produce them at home you need to be a little inventive and have patience because the process can take several days from start to finish. Big trout are my stock cold-smoking fare and the process can be adapted for bacon (which takes more time), sausages

(less time) or even whole hams (a lot more time).

Filleted trout are dry-cured in salt for about 15 minutes per

centimetre of flesh thickness. Ordinary table salt is fine for this

and you can also add herbs, spices, mustard powder or sugar. If you use a lot of additions you will

have to increase the curing time as the proportion of salt touching the fish will

Matt Gregory’s homemade cold-smoking system

2 An old wine barrel makes an excellent chamber for cold smoking.

2 3

1 A ham and a pork belly

go into Matt’s hot smoker.

2 Wood and

sawdust create smoke.

3 Heat builds. Putting an

aluminium pan filled with water inside will keep food moist.

4 Food is now ready to eat.

Smoking


1 3

2

4

have decreased. After the required time, wash off the salt cure and hang the fish up to dry somewhere cool and away from pests!

This drying process is particularly important because it assists in the absorption of smoke, and can take up to 24 hours. Aim for at least overnight. For the smoking itself you will need an enclosed chamber in which to hang your fish or one large enough to take a series of racks on which you can place your fillets.

The trick is to introduce cooled smoke to fill the chamber and surround the fish. My cold-smoking system is a wine barrel that has smoke ducted to it from a metal dustbin.

Sawdust in the bin is ignited by a gas ring underneath. The wood should smoulder without catching fire, producing a small volume of smoke that is cool by the time it reaches the barrel. Sawdust should be hardwood rather than resinous softwood – ash or oak are two good options.

Trout fillets take 12-18 hours in continuous smoke and need a further rest of 24 hours before they are ready to eat. A side of bacon can take three or four days to smoke.

Matt Gregory from Oakham in Rutland runs food-smoking lessons at Stamford Cookery School. He is a keen fisherman, forager and home brewer and used to import wine for a living.

3 Smoke created by sawdust being heated in a metal bin is piped into the barrel (see image on opposite page). The lid is closed and trout fillets are left for 12-18 hours.

“The trick is to introduce cooled hardwood smoke to fill the chamber and surround the fish”

ProQ produces a smoke generator box that is lit by a tea light and can run for 10 hours on as little as 100g of sawdust – worth a look at if space is limited (try forfoodsmokers.co.uk).

About the writer

he grounds of Holdenby House near Northampton were peppered with food and drink producers on August 27-28 for

the Northamptonshire Food Show. The house, built in 1583, provided a superb

backdrop for the event and 6000 visitors came through the gates over the two days. A highlight was the cooking demo by Michelin-starred chef Adam Gray (see main picture, above), joint owner of Shires Cookery School in East Haddon.

T


Above left: Adam Gray from Shires Cookery School. Right: Dan Massey (left) and Duncan Brown from Brown’s Gourmet

Sausages from Wollaston, Northants. Left: Vanessa

Kimbell, author of cook book Prepped, in the demo tent

Northamptonshire Food Show

OUT & ABOUT

A celebration of local food and drink in a wonderful setting

Top left: Gordon and Monique Heron with new arrival Amelie. They run The Larder Deli, Castle Ashby. Above: Jean and Nigel Sturtivant from Ambalama Spices of Ross on Wye. They set up

Ambalama after visiting Sri Lanka in 2004

Above left: Mike Walsh from Tunnel Brewery near Nuneaton.

Above right: Michelle Collier from the Northamptonshire Food & Drink Awards serves tasters of Farrington’s Balsamic

Dressing and Brixworth Paté, finalists in the Best Local Product category.

Below: Food on the Larder Deli’s stand

Above: Sheena Cooper (left)

and Mona Shivashankar from

the Secret Seed Society (see p8). Left: Steve and

Caroline Ward from St Giles Cheese,

Northampton


Scott Grimsley (left) and Adam Czyz, head chef and sous chef respectively at the Olde Red

Lion, Kislingbury

Below: Holdenby House was built in 1583 by Sir Christopher Hatton,

Lord Chancellor to Elizabeth I

Northamptonshire Food Show

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PTONSHIRE FOOD

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!" fe#iva$

Marco Baglieri (left) and Phil Clarke of Nottingham’s Pietanze cook traditional Sicilian Arancini

(deep-fried rice balls)


1 Preheat the oven to Gas 6 (200°C). 2 Butter a 20cm (8in) cake tin and line with lightly buttered greaseproof paper.3 Pour the milk into a bowl and sprinkle in the sugar and yeast. Leave for around 10 minutes – it should start to go frothy.4 Combine the butter and caster sugar in a bowl and beat them together until they are light and fluffy. Then gradually beat in the eggs, followed by the lemon and orange rind and vanilla extract.5 Place the flour and salt in a large bowl. Now gently fold in the milky/yeast fluid, followed by the creamed butter/sugar mixture. Mix them all together until you have a soft dough.6 Put the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about five minutes until it’s smooth.7 Place the dough into an oiled plastic bag, or

alternatively cover with a tea-towel and leave in a warm place. Leave it for about an hour until it has doubled in size.8 Sprinkle the raisins/sultanas and mixed peel over the dough, then knead until they are completely mixed in. 9 Place the mixture in a cake tin (a loose-bottomed cake tin will work or you could use a panettone mould – try cakescookiesandcraftsshop.co.uk). Leave in a warm place until it has doubled in size again. This will take about 45 minutes.10 When it has risen, bake it in the oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to Gas 4 (180°C), and bake for another 30 minutes. When cooked it should be golden brown and firm to the touch. 11 Place the panettone on a baking rack to cool.12 Finally, dust with icing sugar and serve.

A slice of panettone with a flute of Prosecco… it’s the traditional Italian way to celebrate Christmas!

Few people bake their own panettone, being tempted instead by those available from Italian delis and supermarkets. But making one yourself isn’t hard and will definitely impress.

We asked Mauro Vitali, head chef at Italian restaurant San Carlo in Leicester for his recipe...

“Panettone is a cake-like bread stuffed with dried raisins and candied orange and lemon peel,” says Mauro, who is pictured above on the right with San Carlo restaurant manager Fabio Vassallo. “It originated from Milan but is now embraced worldwide. It is a very versatile cake that can also be used in a variety of desserts – try it in place of the bread in bread and butter pudding or, if you have some left over after Christmas and it’s getting a little bit dry, in a trifle.

“In Italy, giving panettone is not a simple act of kindness but a gesture that’s rich in history and tradition. So I am delighted to share my recipe with you. Enjoy!”

Serves 8* 1 tsp sugar * 1 tbsp dried yeast * 4 tbsp milk

* 100g butter * 50g caster sugar * 1 tsp vanilla extract

* 3 free range eggs, beaten * Finely grated rind of 1/2 lemon * Finely grated rind of 1/2 orange

* 400g plain flour, sifted * 1 tsp salt * 100g raisins or sultanas

* 75g (3oz) chopped mixed peel

CONTACTSan Carlo, 38 Granby St, Leicester LE1 1DE (0116 2519332) and 4 Temple St, Birmingham B2 5BN (0121 6330251) www.sancarlo.co.uk. Bookings for the Christmas period are now being taken.

“Try it in place of the bread in bread and butter pudding, or in a trifle”

RECIPE


San Carlo chef shares an Italian classicMauro Vitali’s Panettone

Carlo Distefano Chairman

Marissa DistefanoMarketing Manager

Alessandro Distefano Manager

Marcello Distefano Managing Director

�“Our family has worked hard to ensure the true Italian traditions remain at San Carlo. We wouldn�’t have it any other way.�”

WINNER OF FIFTEEN PRESTIGIOUS AWARDS

San Carlo is not a theme restaurant we are proud to be able to provide the true essence of authentic Italian food, with Italian directors, management and chefs.

San Carlo | Birmingham Bristol Leeds Leicester Liverpool Manchester Milan Rome Signor Sassi | London Kuwait Beirut Bangkok

38 - 40 Granby St, Leicester LE1 1DE Tel: 0116 251 9332 | [email protected] www.facebook.com/sancarlogroup Originale Cucina Italiana

The RestaurantThe Star Inn is now open All Day serving Tea, Coffee

and Snacks from 9am to 5pm.Normal Bar Service is available

from 12.00 noon daily.Serving Traditional & Modern English Fare

Open for lunch 12.00 �– 2.00pmMonday Night - Pie Night £7.95

Tuesday Night - Fish & Chip Night £7.95A La Carte Menu served 6.30 �– 9.30pm Sunday Lunch served 12.00 �– 5.00pm

7 bedrooms en suiteincl Continental Breakfast & Free Wi Fi-Internet Access

2 Bedroom Family SuitesDouble, Twin & Single Rooms Available

Normal price £83.00 per Room (Please ask about special offers)

Full English Breakfast also available at £7.00Weekdays from 7am-9.30am,Weekends from 8am-10.30

All prices plus VAT

The Star Inn 1744 Restaurant37 The Green, Thrussington, Leicester LE7 4UH

Tel: 01664 424 220 Fax: 01664 420 298Email: [email protected] www.thestarinn1744.co.uk

We�’ve been feeding and watering people for more than 250 years and we continue that tradition today. Blending our historic

heritage with modern convenience and luxury, we�’re sure that you�’ll nd the Star inn provides the very best mix of good food & drink, warm & friendly company, and a relaxing atmosphere

at all times of the day and night.


The Foodie Gift Hunter’s Christmas tips

You don’t need to look far around the Heart of England before you find some unique, tasty, Christmas gifts from local producers. Here are a few of Helen Tarver’s (aka The Foodie Gift Hunter) favourites...

Chilli experienceFor those who like it hot, a chilli tour and tasting experience at Edible Ornamentals in Bedfordshire will give them something to look forward to. See over 50 types of chillies and go home with your own plant. Contact: edibleornamentals.co.uk

PRICE: From£2.80

love this...Cranberry

CracottiIf they’re the savoury type, then how

about this great accompaniment to the Christmas Stilton? Cranberry &

Hazelnut Cracotti provide the perfect partner to the king of cheeses, with a

seasonal twist. Especially good with Cropwell Bishop Blue Stilton.

Contact: crackinggoodfood.com

PRICE:£35 FOR TWO PEOPLE

Artisan woodfired ovenThe ultimate gift for food-lovers in 2012. Giving that special someone a handmade woodfired pizza oven to put in their back garden is an act of the purest love! Putting even the most high-tech barbecue in the shade, it will transform parties and, most importantly, enable them to cook amazing food in a new and exciting way. Jack Harrison from Hotrocks Pizza of Nether Broughton in Leicestershire has come up with the design, which is built to dimensions that have been tried and tested over the centuries. Jack will deliver the oven and then show the owner how

to use it. These ovens reach 900F in just over an hour and will cook a pizza in 90 seconds. You can also use them to bake spuds, chicken, fish, roasts and vegetables. Elemental cooking at its finest! Contact: hotrockspizza.co.uk

Crikey, is it that time of year again already? Better get shopping for unique and tasty gifts

Brownies galore!A chocolatey tin of wonder at Christmas that

doesn’t involve Quality Street! That’s what you could send a chocolate lover, with this tin of

brownies from The Brownie Company of Oakham. See how quickly each little square of

squidgy chocolate heaven disappears! Contact: thebrowniecompany.co.uk

Spice kitHelp them travel the world from the kitchen with the World Recipe Gift Pack from local spice expert, Spicentice of Leicester. From Moroccan Lamb Tagine to Cajun Chicken and Thai Green Curry, each little pack gives them the herbs and spices they need to transform mealtimes into an adventure for the tastebuds. Contact: spicentice.com

PRICE: From: £24

PRICE: From: £350

PRICE: From£19.99

PERFECT

GIFT FOR

OUTDOORCOOKS


41 Halford Street, Leicester LE1 1TR - Tel: 0116 251 1889

www.chutneyivy.com

Business Lunches

Stylish Bar and Late Lounge

Venue Hire Available

Open Plan Kitchen

Elegant Dining Room

Pre & Post Theatre Menu

Reduced NCP Parking Rates

“contemporary dining space, combined with traditional Indian hospitality”

‘at the heart of Leicester’s Cultural Quarter’

Christmas bookings now being taken

Lincolnshire Events CentreLincolnshire Showground

Grange de LingsLincoln

LN2 2NA

Call 01522 522900 or visit www.lincs-events.co.uk

The perfect opportunity to stock up on your Christmas essentials

£5 entrance on the door, £4 in advance


RECIPE


“Jerusalem artichokes are in season from

November to February”

Serves 6Soup

* 1kg Jerusalem artichokes

* 100g butter * Salt & pepper

* 2 medium onions, finely chopped

* 2 cloves garlic, grated

* 1.5l good-quality chicken stock

* Squeeze lemon juice


Gnocchi

* 4 large baking potatoes

* 65g Tipo 0-0 pasta flour

* 60g grated Parmesan

* 2 tsp white truffle oil

* 25g grated black truffle (optional)

* 1/2 egg white, beaten

* Salt & pepper * 1 egg yolk

To serve

* 6 large scallops

* Toasted hazelnuts (optional)

Langar Hall’s Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Soup1 Peel and slice the artichokes, then drop them into a tub of water with a good squeeze of lemon juice.2 Melt butter in a large saucepan, add onion, celery and garlic and cook till soft over a low heat (onions should not colour).3 Add artichokes and stock, season, bring to the boil and simmer till artichokes are tender (25-30 minutes).4 Add cream and transfer to blender. Blend till smooth then pass through a sieve. This can be served straight away or chilled and reheated.Gnocchi1 Bake the potatoes and once

cooked scoop out the flesh, discarding the skins. You need 300g of cooked potato.2 While still warm pass through a ricer and combine with the flour and Parmesan. Mix well then add egg white, egg yolk, truffle oil and truffle. Mix well.3 Lay a sheet of cling film (roughly 1 metre) on your work surface, then roll your gnocchi mix into sausages – you should get three depending on thickness!4 Tie the ends of the sausages with string, then place them in a pan of boiling water. Once the gnocchi goes into the water bring back to the boil and simmer for 18 minutes. Once

cooked, remove from the water and chill in an ice bath.To serve1 Gently reheat the soup 2 Slice gnocchi into rounds, remove cling film, lightly dust with flour and pan-fry in olive oil till golden brown.3 Season scallops and cook in hot frying pan with a little olive oil and butter, making sure you get a nice caramelisation – they take roughly one minute for both sides.4 Squeeze a little lemon juice over scallops when cooked.5 Pour soup into a shallow bowl, arrange gnocchi and scallop on top of soup, sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts and enjoy.

CONTACTLangar Hall, Langar, Notts NG13 9HG, 01949 860559, langarhall.com

Ross (foreground) with Gary Booth in

Langar’s kitchen

This recipe is from Langar Hall sous chef Ross Jeffery, who works under head chef Gary Booth at the much-loved and highly regarded Nottinghamshire hotel and

restaurant. “Jerusalem artichokes are in season from November to February but tend to be underused,” says Ross. “They make a fantastic, velvety soup. This recipe has a little

black truffle and truffle oil but you don’t have to use these ingredients – you could go with mushrooms instead. And you could buy ready-made gnocchi.”

Recipe


Riverford at SacrewellFood box delivery company Riverford Organic started life in Devon and now grows a range of produce at Sacrewell Farm, just outside Peterborough. It was recently voted Best Online Retailer in the Observer Ethical Awards for the second year in a row.

CONTACTSRiverford at Sacrewell Farm, Thornhaugh, Peterborough PE8 6HJ 01780 789700, riverford.co.uk

Jane Baxter’s Baked Sprouts with a Stuffing Crust

Serves 4–6

“Brussels haters may well be converted by this seasonal dish that truly makes the most of sprouts,” says Jane Baxter, joint-author of Riverford’s new cookbook, Everyday and Sunday Recipes from Riverford Farm. “It wouldn’t look out of place alongside chicken or sausages, or even with some roast turkey.”

1 Preheat the oven to Gas 3 (160°C).2 Peel and trim the sprouts and cut into quarters lengthways. Toss in an ovenproof dish with one tablespoon of the duck fat and the sugar. Season well.3 Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes, until just tender.4 While the sprouts are cooking, brown the bacon in a frying pan in the remaining duck fat, then add the garlic, sage and thyme. Cook for one more minute, remove from the heat and stir through the breadcrumbs, orange zest and parsley. Season.5 Stir the chestnuts into the sprouts. Pour over the chicken stock. Top with the stuffing mixture and return to the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden.

This recipe is taken from Riverford’s new cook book – Everyday and Sunday – by Riverford head chef Jane Baxter and founder Guy Watson.

* 750g sprouts

* 3 tablespoons of duck fat or butter

* 1 teaspoon caster sugar

* Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

* 100g smoked streaky bacon, chopped

* 1 garlic clove, crushed

* 1 tablespoon chopped sage leaves

* 1 teaspoon thyme leaves

* 150g soft breadcrumbs

* Finely grated zest of 1 orange

* 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

* 100g peeled, vacuum-packed chestnuts, roughly chopped

* 200ml chicken stock

Bangers, beers and brie in the Bard’s backyard

eld beside the Avon, Stratford Food Fest attracted producers from around the UK. West Country businesses were very prominent, including fish supplier Kingfisher from Devon, which was promoting Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Fish

Fight project. Our favourite product of the event was Christmas Pudding Yoghurt from Brown Cow Organics of Shepton Mallet.

H


OUT & ABOUT

Above: Frankie Hails and Jim Cherry from Taste of the Country,

Shipston-on-Stour. Below: David Jowett (left) and Amy and Calum Wilson from

Paxton & Whitfield’s Stratford shop

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Left: Guy Collins from Devon’s Well

Hung Meat Co. Right, top to bottom: Polly

Harben (left) with Judith and Naomi

Freane of Somerset’s Brown

Cow Organics. Stratford’s bee keepers were

buzzing. Renel Newman from

South Wales jerk sauce maker Backyard Co

Bangers sizzle on the Great British Sausage Co

(of Knebworth) stand. Below: Charlotte and Jeremy Marshall from Kit’s Kitchen of Egdon, Worcestershire. Above right: Award-winning runner bean chutney

from Kit’s Kitchen

Stratford Festival of Food


Above: Lazy Cow Ale is brewed for the Lazy Cow restaurant by

Warwickshire Beer Co. Below: Chefs’ demo area


Above: The team from Stratford’s Lazy Cow restaurant. From left: Paul Brown, Steve Keenan, Michael Browne and

Darragh O’Shea (from O’Shea’s Butchers of Knightsbridge), Jess Monahan, Ben Rathbone and Steph Lamdon

Above top: (l-r): Natasha Lane, Jack Chatwin, Niki

Burr and Ellie Lester from Stratford pub The One

Elm’s stand get stuck into Hugh’s Fish Fight.

Above: Head-turning van

Below left: Festival ambassador and TV chef Alan Coxon of

Worcester, who makes his own

vinegars based on ancient recipes

Above: Burgers from Brown Cow Organics. Below: Taste of the Country’s gingerbread men

Above left: Live music was a feature of the festival. Above right: Gail Francis and Richard Mallison from

Coventry-based organic growing charity Garden Organic

Stratford Festival of Food

RECIPE


Serves 4* 4 large hare loins (or 8 small)

* 1 Butternut squash * 2 oranges

* 1 Belgian endive * 1 bunch fresh sorrel

* 150g caster sugar * 100g butter

For the marinade

* 350ml red wine * 200ml port

* 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly * 6 juniper berries

* 1 chopped shallot * Peeled zest of one orange

* 1 bay leaf

Hazelnut dressing

* 2 shallots, finely chopped * 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

* 50ml sherry vinegar * 1 tbsp caster sugar

* 1 tsp grain mustard * 1 tbsp chopped chives

* 1 tbsp chopped tarragon * 1 tsp thyme leaves

* 250ml rapeseed oil

* 2 heaped tbsp chopped toasted hazelnuts

* Finely grated zest & juice of one orange

1 Ask your butcher to take the whole fillets off two hares, from behind the ribs down to its hind quarters.2 For the marinade, place all the ingredients in a saucepan and reduce by half. Allow to cool and pour over the hare loins in a plastic container. Store in the fridge overnight to marinate.3 For the dressing, combine all ingredients except vinegar in a bowl and mix. Whisk in vinegar to taste.4 Segment the orange with a sharp serrated fruit knife.5 Peel and dice the squash – cut 12 perfect cubes and chop the rest roughly. In separate pans, simmer the perfect and roughly cut squash in water until soft. Drain and blend the rough-cut squash with a little butter, salt & pepper until you have a smooth puree. Reserve the perfect cubes.6 Quarter the endive and trim off any discoloured root. Blanch in simmering

water for 4 minutes. Drain and reserve.7 In a shallow frying pan, spread out the sugar evenly and place over a moderate heat until it caramelises. Immediately add the drained endive and 50g butter before the sugar burns (that would be bad!). Shake the pan a bit, then remove from the heat.8 Heat a pan over a high heat with a little oil. Remove hare from the marinade and colour well (a minute each side). Add the remaining butter and butternut dice and cook for another two minutes over a low heat, turning the hare frequently. Remove from heat, add the orange segments and leave to rest for two minutes.9 To assemble, smooth warm puree across four plates, lay across the endive, arrange the butternut cubes, orange and sorrel. Slice each loin into three and place. Finally dress each plate with the hazelnut vinaigrette.

“Hare is an acquired taste,” says Tom Cockerill, proprietor and head chef of Leicester’s Entropy restaurant. “I have not so fond memories of gutting hares on the family farm. Its strong flavour lends itself to hearty marinades such as the red wine reduction in this recipe.”

Tom Cockerill’s Loin of Hare with Caramelised Endive, Butternut Squash, Orange & Sorrel and Hazelnut Dressing

CONTACTEntropy, 42 Hinckley Road, Leicester LE3 0RB, 0116 2259650, entropylife.com

Cal Pla White 2008Grapes: Garnacha Blanca,

Macabeo, MoscatelStunning white from Priorat near

Barcelona delivers the fruit and power this dish needs. Intense flavours of apricot, tangerine

and grapefruit will stand up to the hare’s richness

Price: £13.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

ZESTY WHITE!

Burgers

* 750g minced venison

* 250g minced belly pork

* 1 tsp mixed herbs

* 1 tsp crushed white peppercorns

* 1/2 tsp crushed juniper berries

* 1/4 tsp salt

Apple cream

* 1 large cooking apple

* 1 tsp caster sugar


* 1 tbsp mayonnaise

Ian Davison is head chef and proprietor at the Three Horseshoes at Breedon on the Hill near the Leicestershire/Derbyshire border. Having eaten at his pub, Great Food invited Ian to share a light and simple winter recipe. This is it.

Burgers1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and leave to rest for about an hour or so to allow the flavours to mingle with the meat. 2 Mix again and make a small burger to fry off to check your seasoning. Adjust as necessary. 3 Form mixture into 6 burgers about 3cm thick and fry or barbecue about four minutes each side until nicely browned and cooked through.

Apple cream1 Peel, core and chop the apple.2 Place in a saucepan and just barely cover with water. Simmer over medium-low heat until tender.3 Add sugar then mash well with a fork and allow to cool.4 Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Add cream to the cooled apple, before folding in the mayonnaise. 5 Serve the venison burger on a mixed salad with the apple cream.

Ian Davison’s Festive Venison Burgerswith apple cream and a simple salad

CONTACTThe Three Horseshoes, Main Street, Breedon on the Hill, Leics DE73 8AN, 01332 695129, thehorseshoes.com


Recipe

Chateau Feytit Divon St Georges St Emilion 2008

Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet FrancThis UK exclusive from Bordeaux

has the robust flavours needed for venison. Dark bramble fruit will

team up with the meat, while smooth tannins provide the

counterfoil to tangy apple. Price: £17.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

CHEEKY RED

Makes about 6 burgers

1 Peel, quarter and core the pears and keep in salted water with lemon juice until needed.2 Use a little of the vinegar to blend the spices together, then heat the remaining vinegar gently with the sugar and lemon zest until the sugar is dissolved. 3 Add the spiced mixture and stir together, then bring to the boil. 4 Drain and rinse the pears, add to the pan and

simmer gently without breaking up the pieces for about 15 minutes until they are translucent. 5 Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and pack into warm, sterilised jars. 6 Remove the lemon rind and continue to boil the vinegar mixture for a further 10 minutes or so, until thicker and syrupy. Pour mixture over the pears in the jars to cover completely and seal immediately.

* 1.5kg pears

* 600ml cider vinegar

* 1 tsp ground mixed spice

* tsp freshly grated nutmeg

* 1 tsp ground cinnamon

* 450g caster sugar

* Finely pared rind of lemon

Spiced Pickled PearsIf you are baking a gammon for Christmas, these are great. They also make a very pretty gift and keep for up to 12 months.

Makes around 1.5kg

JAMS & PRESERVES


And ! "#id$ i% ! pe& #'Pears are often overlooked

when preserving – making jam with them can be problematic because they

have low levels of pectin. However, when it comes to chutneys, sauces and seasonal treats, their distinctive flavour is hard to beat. Choose slightly under-ripe fruit if you can, and prepare just before you need them or they will discolour – or put them in water with lemon juice and a little salt till needed.

With Christmas coming, why not select some of your prettiest jars and make some of these pear preserves as gifts? Find an interesting basket or trug and include a selection of jars together with some homemade biscuits or sweets. Happy Christmas!

PS. Some dates for your 2012 diary: first, the World Marmalade Awards in Cumbria on February 25-26. Go to www.marmaladeawards.co.uk for more info, including how to enter the Homemade Awards.

Second, the First British Mustard Festival on March 11 at Scalford Hall, Leicestershire. More next issue.

{ }Add one star anise and a couple of whole cloves to each jar before

sealing if you like a spiced flavour

TOP TIP

Rosemary JamesonRosemary’s never happier than when packing pickled pears into pretty pots. She runs preserving classes at Jam on the Hill near Oakham, founded the Guild of Jam Makers and owns jam kit retailer jamjarshop.com

Save cash and impress family and friends by turning pears into tasty gifts. By Rosemary Jameson

Pickled pears go beautifully with Christmas ham

Jams & preserves


The inaugural British Mustard Festival

Scalford Hall, Leicestershire

MARCH 11, 2012

More details at www.jamjarshop.com

Pear, Apple and Ginger MincemeatThis recipe from our great friend Pam ‘The Jam’ Corbin perfectly combines the flavours of seasonal fruits into a great mincemeat.

* 500g pears, peeled, cored and chopped into 1cm cubes

* 1 kg Bramley Apples, peeled, cored, chopped

* Finely grated zest and juice of 2-3 oranges (you need 200ml juice)

* 200g currants * 2 tsp ground ginger

* tsp ground cloves

* 100g crystallised stem ginger

* 200g sultanas * 100g raisins

* 250g demerara sugar

* nutmeg, freshly grated

* 1 00g orange or ginger marmalade

* 50ml brandy or sloe gin

* 50ml ginger wine or cordial (optional)

* 100g chopped walnuts (optional)

Makes around 4 x 450g jars

Pear and Orange ChutneyIf you are going to enjoy duck or other rich game over the holiday, this is a refreshing accompaniment.

1 Simply combine all ingredients in a preserving pan, cook over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for at least an hour, maybe up to two, until thick. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.2 Pot into warm sterilised jars and seal immediately. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months.

Makes about 2kg

* 1.5kg pears, peeled, cored and chopped

* 600ml cider vinegar

* 350g light muscovado sugar

* 225g sultanas

* 1 large onion, peeled, cored and finely chopped

* 1 tsp ground ginger

* Pinch ground cloves

* Grated zest and juice of two oranges

1 Cook the apples in the orange juice until nice and soft. Put into a large bowl and add all of the other ingredients, except the brandy or gin. Mix together thoroughly, then cover with a clean cloth and leave to stand overnight for about 12 hours.2 Preheat oven to Gas 1/2 (130°C). Put the mincemeat into a large baking dish and bake uncovered for around 2-21/2 hours. Remove from the oven, stir in the brandy or gin, then pot up into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately. This mincemeat will last for around 12 months – if you can keep it that long!

Coming up at Jam on the Hill, Oakham...

Dec 10 & 11: Last Minute Christmas.

Jan & Feb 2012 (dates tbc): Marmalade Magic. Call 01572

720720

JAM WORKSHOPS

Left above & left below: The Green Chilli Indian kitchen is run by (l-r): Kel Sharma,

Dave Plaistow and Sanjan Sharma. Below: Joe Lythgoe (left) and Sam

Creasey of Fen Farm Venison, Sleaford

Above left (l-r): Sophie Nation with Duncan

and Elizabeth Robinson of Groovy Foods, Bourne. Left:

Amber Whittaker selling Northfield Farm bread. Above right (l-r): Grasmere Farm’s Stuart Stables, Jono Cox and Daryl Reece. Right: Cooking demos were led by Rutland

Food Ambassador and Red Lion (Stathern)

head chef Sean Hope

onsidering it’s Britain’s smallest county, there’s a a lot of great food produced and cooked in Rutland.

Echoing this, Rutland Food Festival – held at Rutland Water on September 17 – was packed with

delicious produce, including smoked trout from the reservoir, bread baked by Hambleton Bakery in Exton, beer from Oakham’s Grainstore, and jams made by Rutland Preserves in Whissendine. There was a great family feel, too – most people seem to know each other in Rutland!

C


Above: Grasmere Farm sausages. Below: Anne Lucas and Rob Waddington of Rutland Fly Fishing Adventures selling

trout caught in Rutland Water

Rutland Food FMeet the local producers who bring big flavours to little Rutland

Left: Patrick Whenham-Bossy from Switzerland, ex-sommelier at Hambleton Hall

and Le Gavroche, now the man

behind Amphora Wines at

Northfield Farm, Cold Overton

• RU

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Above: Northfield Farm bread.

Left: Karen Taylor and Emma Dodson (right), the ladies behind Rutland

Preserves of Whissendine

The Dukes of Rutland perform a great cover of

Creedence Clearwater

Revival’s Bad Moon Rising on their ukeleles!


od Festival 2011Meet the local producers who bring big flavours to little Rutland

Kellie Alexander from Barnsdale Lodge selling Jollydale Cyder


Above & below: Tim Brown, Paula Hughes (left) and Kath Booler on the Melton Cheeseboard stand


PUB WALK

T his four-mile circuit begins in East Northamptonshire, crosses into Rutland and then follows the Lincolnshire border for a

few hundred yards before returning to Northants. It’s an easy stroll with just one notable ascent – after you cross the

railway track for the second time and head back to Easton on the Hill. If you try this walk in the winter it’s likely to be muddy, so do use appropriate footwear.

Your starting point is the Exeter Arms (see right) at Easton on the Hill. Easton is a beautiful village, with

1PARK IN THE CAR PARK of the Exeter Arms, Easton on the Hill (see right). Cross the

A43 and turn right, walking past the pub so it’s on your right.

2AFTER A few yards, turn left down a grass path signposted Spring Close and walk through

a small village park area, past a monument dedicated to Polish Paratroopers. Now turn left and up the hill into the centre of Easton village.

3GO STRAIGHT on, walking past the main war memorial and Blue Bell pub.

Then turn right down West Street, following the sign to the Priest’s House.

4GO PAST the Priest’s House and follow the road as it bends right and becomes a track.

Continue along the track and the spires of Stamford soon become visible in the distance on your right.

5WALK ALONG THE stony track for approximately one mile as it descends towards

Tinwell and the River Welland.

6EVENTUALLY YOU come to a railway crossing. Cross the tracks and continue straight

on along a grassy, tree-lined path with blackthorn hedges on each side at the other end.

7AFTER AROUND 500 yards you reach the edge of a field. Now turn left towards a

building and the River Welland.

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Easton on the Hill and River Welland, via the Exeter Arms

View towards Ketton between Easton on the Hill and Tinwell

Circuit encompassing a beautiful village, pretty stretch of river and comfortable pub

The walk

Wartime historyAs you walk through Easton’s

Spring Close Park at the very start of the walk, look out for the stone monument that commemorates Polish

Paratroopers who were stationed in the village from 1944-5.

}Swans on the Welland

some exceptional stone properties that date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. As well as the Exeter Arms, Easton is also home to the Blue Bell, which has a nice, spacious garden for sunny days.

As you approach Tinwell, after the railway crossing, look out for hundreds of sloe berries – great for making warming, fruity booze. After these blackthorns, you soon reach Stamford Meadows, where you stroll along a pretty stretch of the River Welland for a mile or so.

The only slight downside to this walk is that you pass close to the A1, although only for 200 yards or so. After a few minutes the traffic roar is a distant memory and you’re surrounded by pastoral beauty again. The pleasant bits more than make up for it.

OVERVIEW OF AREA


Easton on the Hill & Tinwell

8NOW FOLLOW this

meandering, pretty river for around half a mile until you reach the A1 bridge. Here, do not go under the bridge but turn right and follow the A1 along the field’s edge for a hundred yards or so. Don’t worry, you won’t be near this busy road for long.

9TURN RIGHT, aiming for the wooden railway crossing. Now cross the track (the Stansted

to Birmingham line) and go over a wooden bridge. You are now on the Macmillan Way. Go left along the raised wooden decking to enter a field.

10CUT STRAIGHT across the field, following the path towards trees. When you

reach the wooded area, follow the clear path as it cuts through the trees at the edge of the field.

11CARRY STRAIGHT ON walking uphill on the well-trodden path, following a line

of trees on your right.

12AT THE END of the field go straight on, following the footpath

sign to walk across another field towards an old building.

Exeter Arms

Cows near Tinwell

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Freshly restored, The Exeter Arms on the A43 at Easton on the Hill is worth adding to your list of pubs to investigate. Inside, the feel is one of traditional laid-back comfort but extra touches lift it above the majority of the pub pack. The cosy bar area is firmly in traditional rustic boozer territory (with the exception of the blingy Tattinger champagne bucket and chrome lager pumps). Adjacent is a spacious, pleasant restaurant that combines antique tables, chairs and church pews with an up-to-date feel. On the wall is the occasional intriguing old sign, hops hang from the ceiling and there is plenty of beautiful exposed wood and stonework. To the rear is a new Orangery – a bright and airy conservatory leading to a patio that provides extra dining space.

On tap are beers from local brewery Ufford Ales (soon to become Stamford Brewing Company), and the menus are extensive, including sandwiches (around £6.50), head chef Simon Pollendine’s signature dishes (from £12.50) and a kids’ menu designed by the proprietor’s seven-year-old son (from £3.95). Dogs are allowed in the bar area. At the time of writing, food times are 12-2.30pm Monday to Friday; 12-9.30pm Saturdays; and 12-6pm on Sundays.Exeter Arms, Easton on the Hill PE9 3NS, 01780 756321, theexeterarms.net

13CROSS A stile and follow the path diagonally for a few yards, crossing another field

to reach another stile.

14GO OVER THIS final stile and continue straight on across a grassy car park and through a

gap in the hedge. After walking through the gap, turn left and then carry straight on with All Saints’ Church on your right.

15YOU ARE NOW back in Easton on the Hill. Follow Church Street downhill and

then up again until you reach the main war memorial. At the memorial, turn left onto the High Street.

16FOLLOW the High Street downhill all the way back to Spring

Close (home of the Polish War Memorial). Now walk back up through Spring Close, out onto the A43 and turn right to return to the Exeter Arms.

NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are clear and accurate. Take a map – OS Explorer 234 – and allow enough time.

Easton on the Hill in twilight

Sloes en route to Tinwell

Detailed walk map PUB

WALK

15th century Priest’s House at Easton

Lucy CufflinLocal chef Lucy is author of time-saving cookbook Lucy’s Food. She runs a shop selling handmade ready meals and store-cupboard essentials in Leicester

HOME COOKING


Whether you do a one-stop shop at a supermarket or search out products from

local suppliers, we are all guilty of it – over-buying and over-stocking our larders at Christmas. I don’t want to be a Scrooge, far from it – to me Christmas is the perfect time to indulge in something we thought too extravagant for an ordinary treat. But it raises a dilemma: if I know the people I am visiting have also over-stocked their larder then what can I possibly take as a little gift that they might not already have bought? Bottles are probably stacked high on their wine rack already, chocolates and exotically flavoured nuts are fighting for space in their kitchen cupboards, so what can I take?

Something homemade, of course – and these little biscotti are perfect. They are great made up to three weeks ahead: pack them into pretty bags, boxes or giftwrap them so they look really special. Even if they are not shared at the party then your host will enjoy them in a quiet moment at another time with a cuppa.

Don’t think this recipe is difficult just because it is twice baked; these are simple ideas for involving the family in a joint pre-Christmas bake – there are jobs for everyone from mixing the dough to grating the zest to making pretty bags and tags for packing them up. So get stuck in, bake your own biscotti and help to make this Christmas a homemade one!

My antidote to GBCD (Grocery Buying Compulsion Disorder)

LUCY’S COOKBOOKCookbook Lucy’s Food contains over 350 tested recipes to suit all tastes. Published by Hardie Grant, you can buy it from Amazon, Waterstones or from Lucy’s shop at 6 Francis Street in Leicester.

Try swapping orange for lemon zest, adding pecans in place of hazelnuts and fennel seeds instead of cinnamon for a truly wonderful biscotti that is perfect with any creamy pud. Add candied peel, dried cranberries – you are limited only by your own imagination!

Lucy’s baking tips

Christmas BiscottiMakes around 30

* 250g plain flour

* 2 tsp baking powder

* 175g caster sugar

* Grated zest of 2 oranges (and a little of the juice)

* 1 tsp ground cinnamon

* 2 eggs – beaten

* 75g hazelnuts – roughly chopped

1 Preheat your oven to Gas 4 (180°C). Mix the flour, baking powder, caster sugar, orange zest, cinnamon and hazelnuts. Add the egg, mixing with your hands until you have firm dough. Then add a tablespoon of orange juice to help it come together.2 Divide into two parts and form into log shapes. Put the two logs on a baking sheet and bake uncovered for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, wrap in clingfilm and leave to go completely cold – these are not easy to cut unless really cold. Slice the logs thinly and place on a baking sheet covered with baking parchment.3 Reduce the heat to Gas 2 (150°C) and return the sliced biscotti to the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes or until just golden brown. Do not over-cook as when they are too brown they taste burnt. Allow to cool on a wire rack and pack up immediately. These will stay crispy and ready to use for up to four weeks if stored in an airtight container.

Simple Christmas Biscotti

Escape the rabbit race!

Home cooking


I’m sitting in my kitchen at home thinking: “Right, summer’s long gone, let’s get back to some level of normality”. For the last three

years we have been growing our outside catering business and this summer alone have helped with 30-odd weddings, 20-something birthdays, a few anniversaries, the occasional retirement and a few other bits thrown in. This is great for us as a business, but it’s taken its toll on family life, so now it’s time to give a little back to the boys who have stood by so patiently waiting for daddy to come back and play.

We recently took the family to Germany to see my wife Sandra’s side of the family. Importantly, we ate every meal together. This summer even when we were at our busiest we managed to eat at least one meal together as a family, but everything

always seemed so rushed. This week was different – we shopped together, cooked together, ate together and even cleaned up together. We lived to eat, not the other way round.

We all learned something food related. I learnt a lot about the importance of sausage in the German diet and showed my brother-in-law how to make a good old fashioned English-style steak pie! My boys – Alfie, 4, and Oscar, 2 – learnt a few home truths about rabbits and pigs (they didn’t bat an eyelid).

Talking of rabbits, I’m reminded of a family Christmas story concerning Sandra. She grew up in a small village just outside the city of Fulda; they weren’t farmers but her mother kept a well-stocked vegetable garden and had a few rabbits intended for the table. Now it turns out that Sandra took a shine to one particular rabbit: she looked after it, fed it (probably

Danny JimminsonFamily man Danny is head chef and owner of the Hammer & Pincers at Wymeswold, Leicestershire. Many of the ingredients he cooks with are sourced within a few miles of his restaurant

Turkey casserole with chestnut dumplingsServes 6

Make time to cook with the kids. But don’t mention the rabbit!

Casserole

* 1kg diced cooked turkey, both dark and white meat

* 200g diced smoked bacon

* 2 large carrots

* 2 sticks celery

* 1 large onion

* 500ml chicken stock

* 4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 Peel and dice the carrots and onion, chop the celery and place in a flameproof casserole dish (with a lid) with some vegetable oil.2 Cook the veg over a medium heat, lid off, until it starts to colour, add turkey and bacon, then cover with the stock and add the thyme.3 Cover the pot with its lid and place in a pre-heated oven at Gas 4 (180°C) and cook for 45 minutes.

Chestnut dumplings

* 200g self-raising flour

* 100g shredded beef suet

* 5 tbsp cold water

* 100g vac-pack chestnuts, chopped

* Salt and pepper

* Handful of chopped flatleaf parsley

1 Mix all the ingredients together into a light and sticky dough, make into balls and when the casserole has been cooking for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, place the balls on top and bake for a further 25 minutes until the dumplings have risen and turned golden brown. 2 Serve with steamed seasonal greens.

over-fed it and therefore inadvertently sealed its fate) cleaned it and so on. Well, said rabbit did end up on the table… on Christmas Day. And as a double whammy for Sandra, December 25 also happens to be her birthday! She did wonder where the rabbit had gone and was of course upset, but it was very much a way of life back then – still is in fact. Sandra was a little wary of the boys playing with the rabbits this week, but the stew we ate was described as chicken to save any unnecessary tears.

Hopefully this year when the kids break up for Christmas, it will be an opportunity to get into the kitchen together, so here’s a recipe you can make with the kids. Hope you enjoy the time and the food together.

THE HAMMER & PINCERS5 East Rd, Wymeswold, Leics LE12 6ST, 01509 880735 hammerandpincers.co.uk

‘We lived to eat, not the other way round’

Danny with Sandra, Alfie and Oscar

BUSINESS TIPS


Some of my favourite foodie innovations

HELEN BENTONHelen specialises in business and brand strategy, innovation and communication planning. Contact her if you think she could help grow your business – www.hownowmarketing.com

1Stand out from the crowd

Successful innovation stands apart from what others are doing. Copying isn’t likely to bring big rewards. I would always suggest analysing what the ‘norms’ are for your competitors and then consider which norms you can break. For me, Scrimshaw’s Pork Pies – made at Bailey’s Butchers in Upper Broughton, Notts – successfully broke those norms with their packaging. Owner Liv Scrimshaw ignored traditional colours and now her pies stand out in their bold black and white vintage livery.

2 Play to strengthsInnovation

works best for a business when it helps reinforce what the brand is all about. If your pub is famous for being rustic and traditional, why not

Be original and reap the rewards. By Helen Benton

THE INSIDER

CUPCAKES AND CLOTHES: A perfect match! I was delighted when we popped into the Kandy Cupcakes shop at Woodhouse Eaves near Bradgate Park in Leicestershire – we discovered a pop-up clothes shop upstairs. It captured our attention and not only did we guzzle a cupcake or three, I also walked away with a new dress and cardigan.

SCRIMSHAW’S: See above. Love this packaging because it stands out from the rest.

OCADO.COM AND DAYLESFORD ORGANICS. Ocado is a food-lover’s dream, delivering Waitrose food to your house at a time to suit you. Ocado has now teamed up with online food retailer Daylesford Organics to create a virtual farm shop on the web. The simply-designed site is executed brilliantly, capturing the essence of their products. There’s no reason why local farm shops couldn’t do something similar on their websites.

If you have an ambition to innovate but aren’t quite sure how to go about it, please get in touch.

Unusual black and white packaging gives Scrimshaw’s

Pork Pies a distinctive look I nnovation has a different

meaning to everyone. For me, it’s about finding new

products and initiatives to drive business growth. The best innovations often make you stop, admire and try them.

One of my all-time favourites is Heinz Baked Beanz Fridge pack – not rocket science but seeing the product makes you wonder why it hasn’t existed for years. Innovation can range from new products, recipes and menus to fresh restaurant layouts and promotional drives.

With a new year around the corner, I hope some of the following suggestions can give a bit of inspiration.

Kandy Cupcakes shop in Woodhouse Eaves

Innovation power

use these characteristics as the starting

point and make sure any new

recipes or events draw upon them? Before

you launch, check what a few of your customers think.

3Forward thinkingInnovation is about looking ahead and doing things first.

Consider what the foodie trends for 2012 will be. Last year, one

trend was playfulness. Our local pub took this

on board and came up with a clever alternative to happy hour. Each customer rolled dice against

the landlord– if they won, they got their

drinks for free. Adding this bit of fun really

worked – every ‘rolling hour’ was heaving.

Effective innovation

will keep your business

fresh and grab new customers

Chance to win drinks during happy hour packed in the punters

Beer


!" win#r $r%rA le brewed specifically to be enjoyed in

winter has a long history in Britain. These beers are now known as winter

warmers, and they’ve been around for as long as we’ve needed cheering up during cold weather! Years ago, these beers tended to be brewed in spring and stored in oak casks till winter – the longer maturation process and proximity to wood helped give the ale a distinctive flavour. Made with winter in mind

as a treat to be enjoyed at the end of the year, the brewer would have envisaged them being supped in front of a roaring fire, particularly at Christmas. As such, they were made to be malty, sweet (not many bitter hops were used), dark in colour and given a spicy, fruity character. They were also high in alcohol – 7% ABV or higher.

Today, most breweries make winter warmers to the same template. One of the most famous is Theakston Old Peculier, but there are hundreds. Examples include Bah Humbug from Wychwood and Rudolph’s Revenge from

Cropton Brewery. It’s also worth noting that less alcoholic winter warmers are becoming more popular, such as Everards’ very own Sleighbell (see p32).

Get cookingThe port-like characteristics of winter warmers make them especially good as cooking ingredients. I recently went on a

shoot with Paul Stevens, landlord and head chef of The Greyhound at Burton on the Wolds near Loughborough. We bagged four pheasant and then Paul cooked them in his kitchen, braising them in a very fine winter warmer – Robinson’s Old Tom. His recipe is below.

Cook with it, advises Everards’ master brewer Mark Tetlow

The Greyhound’s Braised Pheasant with Winter Ale, Bacon & Mushrooms, served with Celeriac Puree and Kohlrabi GratinServes 4Pheasant

* Olive oil * 4 pheasant breasts* 1 tbsp plain flour * 100g mushrooms* 4 rashers smoky bacon, chopped* 1 onion, halved and sliced* 450ml Robinson’s Old Tom or similar* 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard* Salt & pepper to taste

1 Pre-heat oven to Gas 5 (190°C).2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a roasting tin on the hob, add the pheasant breasts and cook for three to four minutes, turning to colour. Remove from tin and set aside.3 Add bacon, onion and mushrooms and cook for four minutes, turning. Stir in flour and cook for a minute, then gradually add beer, stirring all the time. Finally stir in the mustard.4 Sit the breasts back in the tin, cover with foil, place in the oven and cook for around 40 minutes until pheasant is cooked through.

For the Kohlrabi Gratin1 In a pan, boil the cream with the garlic. Once boiled, remove the garlic.2 Butter a gratin dish, layer the kohlrabi, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Every two or three layers pour over some cream. Pour cream on top to finish. Cover with

foil and bake alongside the pheasant for approximately 40 minutes.

For the Celeriac Purée1 Bring to the boil and cook until soft. Puree in a blender with butter, salt, pepper and cream.2 Served with veg and Everards’ Sleighbell.

Contact: The Greyhound, 01509 880860,www.greyhoundburtononthewolds.co.uk

Everards’ Tiger Hero Recipe 2012Everards’ search for great tasting recipes using its award winning Tiger Best Bitter as an ingredient starts in January. The winner will get £250 and a year’s supply of Tiger: everards.co.uk/herorecipe

Celeriac puree* Celeriac * Knob butter* Salt & pepper * Cream

Kohlrabi gratin* 3 kohlrabi * 1/2 bulb garlic* Salt & pepper* 600ml whipping cream

Mark (left) and Paul after bagging the

main ingredient

Everards’ Sleighbell is the ideal accompaniment to this braised pheasant

Game is often on The Greyhound’s menu

Available at your local farmshop 01664 424245 (offi ce) 01664 424772 (dairy)

LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

PROBIOTIC

Qual i ty yogurt produced just 8 hours af ter milking, BUY FRESH, BUY LOCALAWARDED THE

INTERNATIONAL GOLD AWARD

FOR THE BEST NEW DAIRY PRODUCT 2010*

FOR PROBIOTIC LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

Awarded to Rhubarb

Thick & Creamy

Awardedto Natural Probiot icThick & Creamy

FESTIVE SEASON AT THE MARQUESS OF EXETERCome and celebrate the festive season at The Marquess of Exeter. Enjoy a warm, friendly, relaxed atmosphere in front of the open log fi res in the bar, perfect for a glass of mulled wine and homemade mince pies, or why not enjoy a festive meal in our large spacious restaurant great for getting together with all the family and friends.

We use the best ingredients to make hand crafted, fabulous food for your freezer. Simply stock and all you have to do is choose what to

eat and when. Fantastic food at your fingertips.

NEW AUTUMN MENU FROM 15TH OCTOBER 2011

Call in on the way home from work

NEW LATE NIGHT OPENING THURSDAYS TILL 7PM

Great selection of our food in stock. Or pre-order for a special �• occasion.

must have’ kitchen gadgets – wonderful whisks, stunning �• spatulas, sieves, strainers and much more

Essential store cupboard ingredients you’ll love – our own salt �• blends, unusual spice mixes and lots of recipe ideas

Lucy’s food cook book - have a copy signed by Lucy for the �• perfect Christmas gift

New - Sam’s bake in. Cake kits for the novice �•

We can deliver to your door

Visit us at 6 Francis Street, Stoneygate, Leicester0116 270 0885

Shop open: Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm

Visit our website, www.lucysfood.co.uk, to see our new menu.


EAT & DRINKA world of great food on your doorstep!

Wh!" to

Nottingham

BakewellMatlock

Ashbourne

Derby

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Rugby

Warwick Northampton

KetteringMarket Harboro Corby Oundle

Stilton

Peterboro’

Stamford

Leicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

NottsDerbyshire

StaffsLeics

Warwicks

SelihullNorthants

Beds

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

Welbeck

THE CROWN Old Dalby

P68

BROWN & GREENDerby

P72

RSC RESTAURANT Stratford Upon Avon

P63

THE RED LIONEast Haddon

P66


WHERE TO EAT

LOCAL RESTAURANT

NEWSThe local food and drink scene is a

dynamic business. Tim Burke tries to keep up with it all...


Kevin Preston (centre), manager of The Star, with Sven and Leicester City club ambassador Alan Birchenall

JAMIE LOVES PADDY‘SPopular backstreet Leicester restaurant Paddy’s Marten Dhaba is featured with enthusiastic endorsement in Jamie Oliver’s new book Jamie’s Great Britain. Alongside a two-page photospread, the author says: “Paddy’s is a brilliant Indian restaurant in a lovely old pub. I loved everything I tried – what a lovely place!” Oliver filmed with head chef Amita Mashru for the TV series accompanying the book. As Great Food went to press, the programme featuring Paddy’s was expected to be broadcast on November 8 on Channel 4. Paddy’s Marten Dhaba, 98 Martin St, Leicester LE4 6EU0116 2665123

CÉSAR FOR OLIVE BRANCHAs well as retaining its Michelin Star for the tenth year, the Olive Branch of Clipsham, Rutland, has been awarded the Good Hotel Guide 2012 César Award for Best Restaurant With Rooms in the UK. Beech House opposite the Olive Branch contains the rooms that impressed inspectors, who described “a happy atmosphere where everything is well done.” Olive Branch, Main St, Clipsham, Rutland, LE15 7SH, 01780 410355, theolivebranchpub.com

ENTROPY PRAISEThe Good Food Guide says Entropy is Leicestershire’s best restaurant. It was praised for a “focused approach, good classical skills and quality ingredients”. Chef patron Tom Cockerill said the guide had recognised “our underlying

passion for quality”.Entropy, 42 Hinckley Rd, Leicester LE3 0RB, 0116 2259650, entropylife.com

STAR IS BORNThe Star at Thrussington in Leicestershire has

re-opened after a major refurb and a charity launch party headlined by Leicester City manager Sven Goran Eriksson, which raised over £2000. Chef

Adam Barnacle is sourcing all meat locally and is aiming to win

an AA rosette. On the menu are items such as roasted figs with Parma ham and dolcelatte, and slow-roast belly of pork with butterbean and chorizo risotto. The Star, The Green, Thrussington, LE7 4UH, 01664 424220, thestarinn1744.co.uk

SANCTUARYAn experienced and high-profile team has taken over The Sanctuary in Upper Saxondale, Notts, and relaunched the restaurant with fresh décor and a new chef. Co-owner Kerry Mathie earned her stripes running restaurants for Anthony Worrall Thompson. Leading the kitchen is Ian Lacey, previously of World Service and Langar Hall. The menu promises to focus on seasonality and local produce. The Sanctuary, Westminster Drive, Upper SaxondaleNotts NG12 2NL, thesanctuaryrestaurant.co.uk

GOOD PUB GUIDE SUCCESSLocal pubs have gained plaudits in the 2012 Good Pub Guide. Here are the highlights...

THE CHEQUERSCountry pub The Chequers Inn at Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir is the Good Pub Guide 2012’s

Lincolnshire Dining Pub of the Year. Its menu features starters such as English lobster risotto with tarragon; mains include brioche-

crusted plaice with caper butter.

BEAR BEST IN DERBYSHIREThe Bear in Alderwasley is Derbyshire’s Dining Pub of the Year and the Good Pub Guide’s best overall East Midlands pub.

MARQUESS MAGICThe Marquess of Exeter in Lyddington is Leicestershire and Rutland’s Dining Pub of the Year, being described as “friendly with excellent food”.

Elsewhere, The Falcon in Fotheringhay is the Guide’s Northants dining champ; and The Martins Arms in Colston Bassett is best food pub in Notts.

PLOUGH SCORES HIGHLYA new entry in the Good Pub Guide is the Plough at Great Casterton near Stamford, which appears in the Editors’ Favourites section. The village pub is described as serving “carefully prepared, imaginative food”.

Where to eat

Local restaurant news is sponsored by Great Food Club

Sanctuary

Jamie and the

Paddy‘s team

SPECIALITIES British seasonal menus; fresh fish; light dishesFOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 11.30-4.30pm and from 7.15pm; Sun: 12-4.30pm

Walking by the north bank of the Avon as you approach the slender 36m

tower of the Royal Shakespeare Company building is a curiously un-British experience. American accents and foreign languages are guaranteed, but the riverside walkway also creates a continental feel, especially when the sun shines on the barges lining the Avon.

The Royal Shakespeare building was subject to a £113 million refurbishment between 2007 and 2010, getting a new Rooftop Restaurant and Bar in the process.

Exiting the lift on the third floor and entering the restaurant is impressive. The space is bright and airy, with efficient staff waiting to seat you (booking is essential). Glass, crisp surfaces and exposed brickwork dominate, and there’s an unrestored wall left in place to add character – Manhattan loft conversion springs to mind. This is a tasteful, contemporary and sophisticated dining area that offers spectacular views of the river and town – the balcony running around the edge of the building provides a memorable place

CONTACTRSC Rooftop Restaurant, Waterside, Stratford CV37 6BB, 01789 403449, rsc.org.uk

Patinated central white wall with old seats attached are remnants

of the building pre-restoration

Exposed brickwork adds to modern feel

Rooftop Restaurant, RSCStratford Upon AvonA modern space offering a unique dining experience

to dine when weather allows. The Rooftop Restaurant is somewhere you’d want to visit even if you weren’t going to see a production in the theatre downstairs.

The menus are thoroughly seasonal and very well thought out, with plenty of light options available that won’t induce doziness in the comfortable theatre seats. On our pre-matinee performance lunchtime visit, we chose a flavoursome butternut squash and

FOOD AT THE RSC

The chefs at Stratford are committed to cooking with British seasonal ingredients and sourcing from local suppliers. For example, in November and December expect dishes that use beetroot, grouse, quince and chestnuts. Suppliers include Aubrey Allen butchers of Leamington Spa and Meg Rivers Bakery, Shipston-on-Stour.

sweetcorn risotto with Ticklemore cheese, and a superbly light pollock with blackstick (liquorice) that was very well cooked.

Gazing out of the tall windows at the swans on the Avon, sipping a glass of Sancerre André Dezat, digesting your meal and looking forward to the performance is a wonderful experience. And as for the new 1000-capacity theatre (tickets range from £14 to £58) – it puts you right at the heart of the action. You won’t forget a day spent here in a hurry.

‘‘This is a tasteful, contemporary and sophisticated dining area that offers spectactular views of the river and town”

Sample menuStarters

Pumpkin soup with Montgomery Cheddar and Basil, £5.95

Pigeon breast with black pudding and Herefordshire Russets, £6.95

Mains Market fish with steamed greens

and Hollandaise, £15.95 Saddle of rabbit with spinach, morels,

leeks and pea risotto cake, £16.95 Middle white pork fillet with fondant potato, roast pumpkin, brussels tops

and bacon, £17.95

DessertsPaxton & Whitfield cheeses, £7

Plum frangipane, £6.95Clotted cream and green figs, £6.95

The RSC building was subject to a £113m refurbishment

Restaurant profile


TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Restaurant


Some of the region’s best restaurants. This map is updated every issue – email your tips to [email protected]

Re!aurant ma"1 Assiette

Stamford PE9 2BEassietterestaurant.co.uk01780 489071

2 Barnsdale LodgeOakham LE15 8AH

barnsdalelodge.co.uk01572 724678

3 The Bay TreeMelbourne DE73 8HW

baytreerestaurant.com01332 863 358

4 Beckworth EmporiumMears Ashby NN6 0DL

beckworthemporium.com01604 812371

5 The Bell InnStilton PE7 3RA

thebellstilton.co.uk01733 241066

6 The Berkeley ArmsWymondham LE14 2AG

theberkeleyarms.co.uk01572 787587

7 Bobby’sLeicester LE4 5AT

eatatbobbys.com0116 2660106

8 BoboliKibworth Harcourt LE8

0NQ bobolirestaurant.co.uk 0116 2793303

9 The Boot RoomLeicester LE1 5JN

thebootroomeaterie.co.uk0116 2622555

10 Brownlow ArmsHough on the Hill NG32 2AZ

thebrownlowarms.com01400 250234

11 Caffe Italia (Bistro)Melton Mowbray LE13 0PN

01664 561 777caffedeli-italia.co.uk

12 Chapel Bar & Dining RoomOundle PE8 4EJ

chapeldining.co.uk01832 274730

13 Chequers InnWoolsthorpe by Belvoir

NG32 1LU, chequersinn.net01476 870701

14 Chutney IvyLeicester LE1 1TR

chutneyivy.com0116 2511889

15 The Crown InnOld Dalby LE14 3LF

thecrownolddalby.co.uk 01664 823134

16 Curry LoungeNottingham NG1 6LF

currylounge.co.uk0115 9418844

17 EntropyLeicester LE3 0RB

entropylife.com0116 2259650

18 The FalconFotheringhay PE8 5HZ

thefalcon-inn.co.uk01832 226254

19 FirenzeKibworth Beauchamp LE8

0LN firenze.co.uk0116 2796260

20 Fischer’s at Baslow HallBaslow DE45 1RR

fischers-baslowhall.co.uk01246 583259

21 The GregoryHarlaxton NG32 1AD

thegregory.co.uk01476 577076

22 Hambleton HallHambleton LE15 8TH

hambletonhall.com01572 756991

23 Hammer & PincersWymeswold LE12 6ST

hammerandpincers.co.uk01509 880735

24 Hart’sNottingham NG1 6GN

hartsnottingham.co.uk0115 9881900

25 Hotel MaiyangoLeicester LE1 4LD

maiyango.com0116 2518898

26 Jackson StopsStretton LE15 7RA

thejacksonstops.com 01780 410237

27 Jim’s YardStamford PE9 1PL

jimsyard.biz01780 756080

28 The JoinersBruntingthorpe LE17 5QH

thejoinersarms.co.uk 0116 2478258

29 The King’s ArmsWing LE15 8SE

thekingsarms-wing.co.uk 01572 737634

30 The King’s HeadWadenhoe PE8 5ST

wadenhoekingshead.co.uk 01832 720024

31 Kilworth House HotelNorth Kilworth LE17 6JE

kilworthhouse.co.uk01858 880058

32 Lake IsleUppingham LE15 9PZ

lakeisle.co.uk01572 822951

33 Langar HallLangar Village NG13 9HG

langarhall.com01949 860559

34 La Casa LocoRugby CV21 3AW

lacasaloco.co.uk01788 565756

35 Marquess of ExeterLyddington LE15 9LT

marquessexeter.co.uk01572 822477

36 Mallory CourtLeamington Spa

CV33 9QBmallory.co.uk01926 330214

37 MansionDerby DE1 2SN

mansionderby.com01332 343665

38 Martin’s ArmsColston Bassett NG12 3FD

themartinsarms.co.uk01949 81361

39 Nevill ArmsMedbourne LE16 8EE

thenevillarms.net01858 565288

40 Northfield FarmCold Overton LE7 3DB

northfieldfarm.com01664 474271

41 The Old Barn InnGlooston LE16 7ST

oldbarninn.co.uk01858 545215

42 Olive BranchClipsham LE15 7SH

theolivebranchpub.com01780 410355

43 Oundle MillOundle PE8 5PB

oundlemill.co.uk 01832 272621

44 The PheasantKeyston PE28 0RE

thepheasant-keyston.co.uk 01832 710241

45 The PloughGreat Casterton PE9 4AA

theplough-greatcasterton.co.uk 01780 762178

46 Purnell’sBirmingham B3 2DH

purnellsrestaurant.com 0121 2129799

47 The Red LionEast Haddon NN6 8BU

redlioneasthaddon.co.uk01604 770223

48 The Red LionStathern LE14 4HS

theredlioninn.co.uk01949 860868

49 Restaurant Sat BainsNottingham NG7 2SA

restaurantsatbains.com0115 9866566

50 Rose & CrownYardley Hastings,

Northants NN7 1EX roseandcrownbistro.co.uk 01604 696276

51 San CarloLeicester LE1 1DEL

sancarlo.co.uk/leicester0116 2519332

52 SimpsonsEdgbaston B15 3DU

simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk0121 4543434

53 Snooty FoxLowick NN14 3BH

thesnootyfoxlowick.com 01832 733434

54 Stapleford ParkStapleford LE14 2EF

staplefordpark.com01572 787000

55 Three HorseshoesBreedon on the Hill

DE73 8AN, 01332 695129thehorseshoes.com

56 Tobie NorrisStamford PE9 2BE

tobienorris.com 01780 753800

57 TurnersHarborne B17 9NS

turnersofharborne.com 0121 4264440

58 The White HartUfford PE9 3BH

whitehartufford.co.uk01780 740250

59 The WoodhouseWoodhouse Eaves LE12

8RG thewoodhouse.co.uk01509 890318

60 World ServiceNottingham NG1 6AF

worldservicerestaurant.com0115 8475587

52

57

46

20

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Solihull

Staffs

Always check opening hours before setting off


a!37

50

51

30

39

43

15

58

45

24

11

5

59

54

56

53

55

34

60

25

44

12

48

47

42

49

35

36

3833

29

31

32

28

23

24 16

41

3

6

14

40

27

26

17

12

21

8

10

4

7

13

19

22

9

18

Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

CoventryRugby

Warwick

LeamingtonNorthampton

Kettering

Market Harborough Corby OundleStilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

NottsDerbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

Welbeck

Ke"Michelin starred establishments

Map by Graham Wright

SPONSORED BY...

Part of Great Food Club – see p10 and

www.greatfoodclub.co.uk

LOCAL RESTAURANTS

The Red Lion, East HaddonCUISINE: Modern BritishPRICE PER HEAD: £30-£40 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: NoCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Car park to rearFOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 12-2.30pm and 6-10pm; Sunday: 12-8pm

This must be one of the finest dining experiences in the East Midlands. Head

chef and joint-proprietor Adam Gray was born in Northamptonshire village East Haddon and has returned to his roots via a circuitous and prestigious route. He has worked at the Four Seasons Hotel on London’s Park Lane, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire and was head chef at Gary Rhodes’ City restaurant, Rhodes 24. Adam recently left his role at Rhodes’ establishment to focus on the Red Lion, which has just picked up its first Bib Gourmand award [also see p6]. He is expertly aided by his head chef, Anthony Horn.

We arrived on a Tuesday evening in mid-October expecting the place to be fairly empty. How surprised we were! There was a constant flow of people, some young and trendy, and others, like us, not so young! We chose a Pinot Grigio ‘Villa Borghetti’ from the

comprehensive but simple wine list, priced at £20.50. The service was superb but relaxed, the staff clearly having been well trained and striking just the right balance. My starter of smooth chicken and duck liver paté with dried-fruit chutney was excellent. For mains, my wife’s slow-cooked lamb, turnip gratin and buttered leeks was expertly cooked and presented, while my partridge with mashed potato and winter vegetables made me glad that it was autumn. Eager for more, gluten-free citrus cake with poached blueberries and vanilla ice cream couldn’t have been better.

We finished with an interesting cheeseboard which, to my delight, included my favourite cheese – Sharpham from Devon.

The Red Lion, which boasts its own state of the art Shires Cookery School opposite, has three spacious dining areas, each with subdued modern decor. All are comfortable and eating here is a truly enjoyable experience – expect superb flavours, well-presented, balanced portions and a warm and friendly welcome. The whole meal came to £78 for two people, which seemed to us to be very good value. Enzo Maffioli

Hart’s, NottinghamCUISINE: ItalianPRICE PER HEAD: £25-£35 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: NoCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Small car park for Hart’s Hotel guests (very limited spaces)FOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 12-2pm and 7pm-10.30pm; Sun: 12-2pm and 7-9pm

A contemporary urban alternative to rural sister venue Hambleton Hall, Hart’s

restaurant is located in the upmarket Park Row area of Nottingham. Part of an old Victorian hospital, it has been serving up nationally acclaimed cooking since 1997.

Pushing it on timing, we rolled up unsure where to park but the charming maître d’ offered us a spot on the courtyard by the restaurant. Nothing was too much trouble and we were shown to our table but could have happily had pre-dinner drinks in the bar/lounge area. The restaurant is simple yet stylish and the 80-seater venue’s comfortable banquette seating contributed to the intimate and relaxed feel. While ordering we spied a diner opposite sliding round the seating and proposing to his girlfriend. In the excitement he knocked over their Champagne but ninja-like staff were all smiles and charm

Menu samplesSTARTERS

Tuna carpaccio, pickled white radish, wasabi mayonnaise,

coriander £7.95 Quail pithivier, raisin puree,

broccoli, girolles, red wine jus £10 MAINS

Roast duck breast, confit onions, onion puree, chips, watercress,

bourguignon sauce £19.95Pan-fried wild line-caught salmon,

peas French-style, baby gem lettuce, potato galette £18.50

DESSERTChocolate & cherries £8

and swiftly completed a full table overhaul. She said yes, by the way.

My starter of curried Cornish crab with mango and basil dressing was fresh and light – divine, delicate flavours. My husband selected a starter-size girolles fricassée with poached egg – an earthy and gloriously rich dish. This was followed by a perfectly pink roast rack of lamb with artichoke puree and Israeli cous cous. Each flavour caressed the palate, from the mint in the cous cous to the tiny feta stuffed peppers. Pan-roasted

halibut, crushed cauliflower, gnocchi and crab bisque was another winning combination, all delivering on flavour and texture. An expertly selected wine list featuring small producers was impressive and in the £15-£30 bracket. We were offered space between courses despite the busy evening and managed to share a delicate apple bavarois.

A blend of skilled service and top-class food made for a perfect evening. Emma Ansell



Northamptonshire chicken & ham terrine with herb dressing £6.25Roasted red pepper soup with

English goat’s cheese fritter £4.75MAINS

Roast chump of Northamptonshire lamb, garlic cream potatoes & fresh

mint jelly £16Slow-roast belly of pork, sage & onion

hash, apple compote £15DESSERT

Rhubarb cheese cake with ginger ice cream £5.25

THE RED LION Main Street, East Haddon, Northants NN6 8BU 01604 770223, redlioneasthaddon.co.uk

HART’S RESTAURANT Standard Hill, Park Row, Nottingham, NG1 6GN 0115 9881900, hartsnottingham.co.uk

The Red Lion is a classic country pub in a pretty village

Bull & Swan, StamfordCUISINE: Modern BritishPRICE PER HEAD: £30 (for three courses excluding wine)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: Yes, in the barCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, but it’s small and getting in is quite tightFOOD TIMES: Mon to Sat: 12-2pm and 6-9pm; Sun: 12-8pm

Being Scottish, it goes without saying that when faced with healthy food, my first

reaction is to encase it in meat and breadcrumbs and deep fry. This also explains how I found myself in an establishment that specialises in such a delicacy. The Bull and Swan has saved the classic Scotch egg and reinvented it for the 21st century.

It speaks volumes that I was convinced to forego such a treat – the last one I tried was sublime – for alternative dishes on the Bull and Swan’s extensive, well-written menu. This 17th-century coaching house was taken over in 2010 and has been fully and sympathetically refurbished.

I kicked off with wild mushrooms in a white wine, cream and garlic sauce on toast, which was, how can I put it… unremarkable. The lightly toasted bread had gone soggy and, for such a rich starter, there was simply too much


Soup of the Day £5.50Tempura king prawns £7.50

MAINS8oz Lincoln Red rib-eye steak and hand-cut chips £18.95

Linguine in parsley pesto £11Grasmere faggots, sauté

potatoes, tomato sauce £12.50DESSERTS

Crème brûlée of the Day £7Chocolate brownie with blood

orange sorbet £7of it. My lunchtime companion had no such complaints and wolfed down his potted Cromer crab, slathered generously on granary toast. He detected a good dollop of mustard that added a welcome piquancy.

Now, I find it hard to resist faggots (no laughing at the back). Two plump meatballs arrived with perfectly cooked sauté potatoes. The faggots were covered in a tomato sauce, but you have to tread carefully when reinventing a classic. The flavour of the faggots was overwhelmed by the rich sauce. Give me faggots with an onion gravy and mash, every time. My fellow diner judged his sun-dried and goat’s cheese risotto to be an ‘eight out of ten’. The chef had been generous with the parmesan and rocket.

Service, for people who had jobs to get back to in the afternoon, was on the slow side of relaxed, so there was no time for puds.

We did have time for a squizz at the evening game menu, which looked good, and saw that roasting pots of lamb, beef or pork are available on Sundays (£45 for four). These sound like the perfect dish with which to idle away an afternoon in these beautiful, historical surroundings. Mark Hamilton

Reviews

THE BULL & SWANSt Martins, Stamford, Lincolnshire PE9 2LJ, 01780 766412, thebullandswan.co.uk

17th century Bull & Swan

T h i s C h r i s t m a s e x p e r i e n c e t h e d i f f e r e n c e a t

• Delicately smoked fish including sides of smoked salmon, hotsmoked salmon, mackerel, trout, eel, cods roe, kippers. Plus oysters direct from the oyster beds in Suffolk.

• Our range of exciting artisan cheeses, or more traditional whole,half or baby stilton, black bomber, or brie de meaux

Don’t forget to pop in to Otters on Mill Street in Oakham to pick up your Christmas Order form!

OTTERS SMOKEHOUSE & DELI

Choose from carefully selected products including:

Open Mon – Sat: 9am – 5.30pm

3a Mill Street, Oakham, Rutland LE15 6EATel: 01572 756481 Email: [email protected] www.ottersdeli.co.uk

TASTE THE DIFFERENCE WITH OTTERS THIS CHRISTMAS!

• Whole smoked ham slippers and sliced ham

• Fabulous patés, charcuterie, olives and antipasti

• And don’t forget the luxury Xmas pud!

RURAL RETREATS


The Crown, Old Dalby

CUISINE: Modern British/EuropeanPRICE PER HEAD: £20-25 (three-course Lunch Menu and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: Yes, in the barCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Car park to rearFOOD TIMES: Tues-Fri: 12-2pm & 6-9pm; Sat: 12-3pm & 6-9pm; Sun: 12-3pm.

F irst, a word of warning: there are three Dalbys

in Leicestershire – Old, Great and Little. Old Dalby, home of The Crown, is a fair trek from Great, so do get the right one! Once successfully navigated, The Crown, situated near Belvoir Brewery but managed by Nottingham’s Castle Rock Brewery (three times winner of the Good Pub Guide Best Pub Company Award), makes a pleasant rural pub destination.

After going down an uninspiring, rather suburban-looking village road, the pub

appears – or rather, the ivy appears, for at first glance The Crown seems to be more vegetation than hostelry.

The pub, which dates back to the late 16th century, is in three parts – a large outside area including petanque pitch and seating area; a typical country pub at the rear with quaint rooms with beams, tables and chairs; and finally a newly built bright and contemporary dining area (pictured above) with large glass windows.

The Crown does a good job of being both a drinkers’ and a diners’ pub, although the emphasis is on food. There’s a bar menu offering simple dishes such as Collington’s of Wymeswold sausages with mash (£8); or you can choose from the À la carte, an example being Collington’s fillet of beef (£24). The lunch menu (three courses £16) is good value.

The Nevill Arms, MedbourneCUISINE: Modern British/EuropeanPRICE PER HEAD: £35-£45 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: Yes, in the barCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Car park to rearFOOD TIMES: Mon-Fri: 12-2.30pm & 6-9pm; Sat: 12-3pm & 6-9pm; Sun: 12-3.30pm & 6-9pm

I f you’re looking for the perfect English village then you should definitely visit

Medbourne, located midway between Market Harborough and Uppingham in south Leicestershire. Not only is it rural, picturesque and home to the quintessentially English (and

impressively violent) ritual of ‘Bottle Kicking’, which takes place every Easter Monday – it also has a delightful village pub with a tributary of the River Welland running yards from the front door.

The Nevill Arms, a Grade II listed building that was once an old stable yard and coaching inn, has a comfortable bar area to the front and a spacious dining room to the rear. And next door is Café Nevill, open from 8am-4pm every day serving breakfasts and light bites.

With the presence of the café it’s possible – but probably not recommended by doctors – to breakfast, laze around, nip next door for lunch, siesta, then wander into the bar for drinks before tottering, dazed and confused into the restaurant for dinner. There you’ll find an evening menu that is seasonal but straightforward, including pub favourites such as beer-battered cod and chips (£11.95), pan-fried chicken fillet stuffed with lemon and

thyme (£13.95) and slow-cooked pork belly with butternut squash purée (£15.95). A two-course Sunday lunch will set you back £13.95.

Medbourne is a lovely village and the Nevill Arms is a pleasant rural retreat, whether it’s morning, noon or night.

CONTACTThe Crown, 7 Debdale Hill, Old Dalby, Leics LE14 3LF 01664 823134, thecrownolddalby.co.uk

CONTACTThe Nevill Arms, 12 Waterfall Way, Medbourne, Leics LE16 8EE, 01858 565 288, thenevillarms.net

Pleasant country pub with impressive food credentials

‘It’s possible to come for breakfast, laze around, nip next door for lunch, siesta, then wander into the bar for drinks’

Comfortable village dining venue

View of the Nevill Arms from the other side of Medbourne brook

The Crown is a traditional pub with a contemporary dining area

Dining room at the Nevill Arms

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GREAT FOOD

Rural Retreat

Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, 10 Nottingham Street, Melton Mowbray,

Leicestershire LE13 1NW Tel: 01664 562341

www.porkpie.co.ukALSO AVAILABLE IN MAJOR SUPERMARKETS

The Melton Cheeseboard

www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

8 Windsor StreetMelton MowbrayLeicestershireLE13 1BUTel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening HoursMon 9.00 – 3.00Tues 8.30 – 5.00Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.00Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.00

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Stilton is our speciality, ours is sourced directly from Long Clawson Dairy, based just fi ve miles outside Melton Mowbray.

We would like to welcome you to our shop in the

heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the fi nest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford Cheese from Bertelin Cheese, and Sparkenhoe Farm Red Leicester.

dFor a taste of the

best cheese from the

Melton area, why not

come and visit us?

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For a tasty gift or Christmas

treat why not visit...

The Joiners is a delightful gastropub serving simple, perfectly cooked food.

Michelin Eating Out In Pubs Guide 2011 - Inspectors favourites

BruntingthorpeSouth Leicestershire

Welcoming, Charming, Special

For further detailsplease call 0116 247 8258

or see our websitewww.thejoinersarms.co.uk

Celebrate the festive period

at The Joiners, proud recipients of a Michelin bib

gourmand

Italian Cookery School, party catering, hampers & Supper Club “Such a joy to eat fabulous local food, cleverly cooked with a love and knowledge of the good things in life”

www.squisito-deli.co.uk

Great Food 65x90.indd 1 18/10/11 11:36:18Jane’sSweet TreatsCakes made to order, with the freshest ingredients and lots of love.Suitable for all occasions, for any loved ones.Like us on Facebookfacebook.com/JanesSweetTreatsJ

Contact Jane Mirfi eld on 07709 [email protected]



1 Alexander WinesCoventry CV5 6EE

024 76673474

2 Amphora WinesCold Overton LE15 7QF

amphora-wines.co.uk

3 Amp’s Fine WineOundle PE8 4BQ

ampsfinewines.co.uk

4 Anderson & HillBirmingham B2 5HU

andersonandhill.co.uk

5 Barrowby CakeholeBarrowby NG32 1BZ

barrowbycakehole.co.uk

6 Beckworth EmporiumMears Ashby NN6 0DL

beckworthemporium.com

7 Ben’s Wine ShopOakham LE15 6QS

benswineshop.co.uk

8 Boutique AromatiqueWelbeck S80 3LW

boutiquearomatique.com

9 Brown & GreenDerby Garden Centre

DE21 5DB brown-and-green.co.uk

10 BuntingsThrapston NN14 4JH

buntingsfinefoods.co.uk

11 Deli ItaliaMelton Mowbray LE13 0PN

caffedeli-italia.co.uk

12 Cana at Bank ChambersHarbury CV33 9HW

canaimport.co.uk

13 Cheese on the GreenBilton CV22 7LZ

cheeseonthegreen.com

14 The Cheese ShopNottingham NG1 2HN

cheeseshop-nottingham.co.uk

15 Chocolate AlchemyLoughborough LE11 1TZ

chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

16 Christopher James DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

17 Collyweston Community Shop

Collyweston PE9 3PWcollywestonshop.co.uk

18 Colston Bassett StoreColston Bassett NG12 3FE

colstonbassettstore.com

19 Country Bumpkins DeliLeamington Spa CV32 5JR

countrybumpkinsdeli.co.uk

20 The DeliKibworth Beauchamp

LE8 0HS 0116 2790077

21 Deli 53Ashby LE65 1AG

01530 415706

22 Deli at Black & BlossomAshby LE65 2FH

blackandblossom.co.uk

23 Deli FlavourLeicester LE2 2DA

deliflavour.net

24 Delilah Fine FoodsNottingham NG1 7DX

delilahfinefoods.co.uk

25 Dickinson & MorrisMelton Mowbray LE13 1NW

porkpie.co.uk

26 Duncan Murray WinesMarket Harborough LE16

7LT duncanmurraywines.co.uk

27 The Fine Food StoreStamford PE9 2DF

thefinefoodstore.com

28 The Food Hall DeliNorthampton NN1 1JW

northampton-delicatessen.co.uk

Temples of taste in the Heart of England. Updated every issue in response to your feedbackOn this map we list some of the best local delis, wine shops, bakeries and more for you to visit and enjoy. Thanks to your feedback, new additions for this issue are St Martin’s Tea & Coffee in Leicester, The Larder in Castle Ashby, Collyweston Community Shop, Alexander Wines in Coventry and Food Hall Deli in Northampton. To tell us about a great deli, email [email protected] or tweet @greatfoodmag

Del! and mor" ma#47 Northfield Farm Bakery

Cold Overton LE15 7QFnorthfieldfarm.com

48 North’sRothley LE7 7LD

dominic-davidnorth.co.uk

49 Old Theatre DeliSouthwell NG25 0HE

theoldtheatredeli.co.uk

50 Otters, Oakham LE15 6EA ottersdeli.co.uk

51 The Malt House DeliBottesford NG13 0AH

01949 843699

52 Paxton & WhitfieldStratford CV37 6JF

paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

53 The Pickled VillageBulwick NN17 3DY

thepickledvillage.co.uk

54 Relish DeliTamworth B79 7DF

relishdeli.co.uk

55 Rutland & Derby Deli (in pub) Leicester LE1 5JN

everards.co.uk

56 Salvador DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

thesalvadordeli.co.uk

57 Simply Simon’sMarket Harboro’ LE16 7LT

simplysimons.co.uk

58 Squisito DeliMonks Kirby CV23 0RA

squisito-deli.co.uk

59 Stamford Cheese CellarStamford PE9 2DG

01780 489269

60 St Giles CheeseNorthampton NN1 1JF

stgilescheese.com

61 St Martin’s Tea & CoffeeLeicester LE1 5EW

stmartinscoffee.co.uk

62 The Tall Frog DeliNottingham NG2 6ET

thetallfrog.co.uk

63 Three Horseshoes Deli Breedon DE73 8AN

thehorseshoes.com

64 The Waltham DeliWaltham on the Wolds

LE14 4AH walthamdeli.co.uk

29 The Garage DeliUppingham LE15 9UD

01572 823247

30 The Garden BarnCotesbach LE17 4HS

gardenbarn.co.uk

31 Gourmet DelisOundle PE8 4EF

gourmetdelis.co.uk

32 Hallam’sGrantham NG31 6LH

01476 591911

33 Hambleton BakeryExton LE15 8AN

hambletonbakery.co.uk

34 Hambleton Bakery Oakham LE15 6AL

35 Hambleton Bakery Oundle PE8 4AU

36 Hambleton Bakery Stamford PE9 1PL

37 Kendall’s of EarlsdonCoventry CV5 6EJ

kendallsofearlsdon.com

38 Kibworth WinesKibworth Beauchamp LE8 0HQ

kibworthwines.co.uk

39 Kitchen Garden CaféKings Heath B14 7SA

kitchengardencafe.co.uk

40 LandinsKimbolton PE28 0HB

landins.co.uk

41 The LarderCastle Ashby NN7 1LF

thelarderuk.co.uk

42 Local Not Global DeliNottingham NG9 1EN

localnotglobal-deli.co.uk

43 Lucy’s FoodLeicester LE2 2BD

lucysfood.co.uk

44 Maiyango Deli KitchenLeicester LE1 4LD

maiyango.com

45 The Melton CheeseboardMelton Mowbray LE13 1BU

meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

46 No 8 DeliNottingham NG2 5LN

no8deli.co.uk

54

39

4

52

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Solihull

Birmingham

Staffs



or! ma" SPONSORED BY...

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45

47

35

33

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2

7

50

51

49

6

44

64

41

42

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58

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28

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Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

Coventry

Rugby

WarwickLeamington

Northampton

Kettering

Market Harborough Corby OundleStilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton Mowbray

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

NottsDerbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Beds

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

WelbeckKe#

Outlets where you can buy Great Food

Choccy maker

Cheese shop Baker

Deli Wine shop

Map painted by Graham Wright



WHERE TO EAT


SPECIALITIES Local produceOPENING TIMES: Mon-Sat: 9am-6pm; Sun 10am-5pm (Derby store)

Passion for local, handcrafted food and drink radiates from

Brown & Green founder Susie Keenan as she chats with Great Food magazine at her new store inside Derby Garden Centre. “These vegetables are grown in Melbourne, Derbyshire,” she says proudly, before launching into the Brown & Green story.

Brown & Green is a small chain of farm shops/delis with an energetic, youthful feel

CONTACTBrown & Green, Derby Garden Centre, Alfreton Rd, Little Eaton, DE21 5DB 01332 835244, brown-and-green.co.uk

Some B&G suppliersSouth Derbyshire GrowersCo-operative veg-growing group

run by Barry Hodgkinson

Teresa Lambarelli Producer of fresh pasta sauces and

oils from Chesterfield

Bob Pitchfork Nottingham-based pickle and

chutney maker

Duffield DairyMilk from Friesians grazed on the

Kedleston Estate near Derby

Rico’s Mexican KitchenDragons’ Den-appearing salsa and

sauce maker from Derbyshire

Inside Brown & Green at Derby Garden Centre

Delicacies behind the deli counter

Brown & Green, DerbyBursting with energy and offering a superb range of local, artisan produce, Brown & Green is on the rise

and a positive, professional approach. “Our perfect product is ethical – so produced in the right way – artisan – made by hand in

small batches – and local,” explains Susie. “That’s the ideal but not all the food

and drink we sell fits that criteria exactly – some more so, some less so. When something is produced from

further afield, we always say so.”

Susie set up the farm shop that led to Brown & Green in 2007, in Newent, Gloucestershire. “My husband Euan grows strawberries and apples and I wanted to sell them to local shoppers.” Seeing the potential of setting up a farm shop inside the local garden centre, Susie approached the owners. They liked the idea so Susie opened Shepherd’s Farm Shop.

But less than a year after opening, the garden centre was sold to large garden

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Deli

LOCAL PRODUCERS

Susie sees local producers as partners and puts effort into promoting them. “We’re working with a couple who’ve never supplied a shop before, advising them on packaging and labelling,” says Susie. “And we recently talked a Staffordshire preserver into making mustard because we didn’t have a local supplier.” Susie’s next project is to magic a Derbyshire cheese maker into existence. “We can’t find one,” says Susie. “It’s a great opportunity for someone.”

centre group Blue Diamond. “I met the MD thinking he was

going to kick us out. But they liked our shop and wanted to work more closely in the future.” And so it turned out – now Brown & Green is a partnership half owned by Susie and Euan, and half owned by Blue Diamond. There are now

three Brown & Greens – at Derby Garden Centre (opened March 2011), Trentham Shopping Village (April 2011) and the original Newent store. Expect more in the future.

Inside a Brown & Green you’ll find a superb selection of local food. “We go to a lot of effort to find the best local producers and work closely with them,” says Susie.

Susie Keenan with Derby store boss Tom Stanley

Enjoy great food at The Nevill Arms Inn, Restaurant & Café NevillMedbourne, Market Harborough

Medbourne, Leicestershire Telephone 01858 565 288 www.thenevillarms.net

Relax, Dine & Stay

The Jackson StopsFine food with a warm and friendly atmosphere

THE J

ACKSON STOPS

COUNTRY INN

download our full Christmas brochure now at:www.thejacksonstops.com

Call and book your table on:01780 410237

December Lunch Menu - 2 Courses £15 3 Courses £18Available Tuesdays-Saturdays

Christmas Party Nights - £30 per personGuitarist to provide ambience while you dine.Dates available December: 7th/8th/14th/15th

Christmas Day Luncheon- £75 per person/Children under 12 half price

Beautiful 5 course lunch

New Year’s Eve - £75 per personGourmet 6 course dinner. Piper and guitarist provide ambience while you dine.

Sorry nobody under 12 years of age.


DELI PROFILE


Charlotte Falkingham with Sarah Lyon and Janet ??????

Charlotte Falkingham with Sarah Lyon and Janet ??????

Otters Smokehouse & Deli, OakhamTraditionally smoked fish and a magnificent array of cheeses

Leo Sugden with a mackerel smoked by Pinney’s of Orford

On sale at OttersSmoked kippers: £2–£2.50 each

Traditional cold-smoked salmon:

£4/100gHot-smoked salmon:

£3.50/100gHot-smoked mackerel:

£1.25/100g

If you’re a smoked fish fan then Otters is a slice of

heaven, and there’s a range of deli produce on sale too

CONTACTOtters Smokehouse and Deli, 3a Mill Street, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 6EA, 01572 756481, ottersdeli.co.uk

more for smoked-food fans in the form of smoked ham, duck breast, sausages and chorizo.

The shelves that have been squeezed into what space remains groan under the weight of chutneys, oils, flours, pasta, flavoured vinegars, teas and soft drinks. The olive range is properly fresh and comes in a variety of marinades and stuffings and is complemented by trays full of anti-pasti including balsamic onions, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, artichokes and pestos (there are more than 60 Great Taste award-winning products in the range of ambient goods alone).

The breads, homemade tarts and sandwiches make it almost impossible to resist putting together an indoor picnic, or gathering ammunition for a bracing walk.

Still fresh out of the box, Otters is already a destination for the food lovers of Oakham and it’s worth a detour if you are from further afield. Matt Gregory

put together – at least 40 at any one time, including a good selection of English cheeses

that cover local specialities such as Lincolnshire Poacher and different

styles of Stilton to soft and hard cheese from around the country. The range of continental cheeses is equally impressive and encompasses goat and sheep’s

cheeses too. The chilled display has

SPECIALITIES Smoked fish; English and continental cheeses; anti-pastiOPENING TIMES: Monday-Saturday: 9am-5.30pm; closed Sunday

T his diminutive deli on Oakham’s smart Mill Street is filled to the rafters with

delectable delicacies. Opened this summer to a great fanfare – complete with a giant billboard by Oakham railway station – by Leo Sugden and his family, you can’t accuse them of not being committed. Leo has a passion for food and this comes through as soon as you step through the door of the shop.

The little clue in the name means that there is a strong emphasis on smoked foods. Leo has a long connection with the excellent Pinney’s of Orford (located on the coast near Ipswich) and is bringing in a range of its produce under the Otters label, from smoked prawns to duck breast. Pinney’s is a third-generation smokehouse established in 1959 and still smokes over whole logs rather than dust or chippings. A full range of traditionally

cold-smoked goodies including salmon and kippers is complemented by hot-smoked (see p36) salmon, mackerel and trout. The smoked fish patés are a super introduction to the style of smoking used by this Suffolk smokery.

As well as the smoked products, Leo is particularly proud of the selection of cheeses he has

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Delicatessen

Homemade tarts are hard to resist

“A full range of traditionally cold-smoked goodies, including salmon, mackerel and kippers”

21 Stamford Road, Easton on the Hill, PE9 3NSt. 01780 756321 e. [email protected] www.theexeterarms.net

We look forward to welcoming you to The Exeter Arms soon

Enjoy Christmas at The Exeter Arms

Festive celebrations• Christmas Party Lunch at £21.00 per person

• Christmas Party Dinner at £25.00 per person

• Christmas Day, Champagne on arrival and four course lunch at £75.00 per person

• Boxing Day, Festive à la carte, home comforts and pizza menu

• New Year’s Eve, Champagne on arrival and three course dinner and house party £29.95 per person

• New Year’s Day – Back to normal! Sunday Lunch and à la carte menu

To make a booking call 01780 756321 and ask for Anna or Simon.

1000S

HELPING

YOU

PAY

LESS EVERYDAY

OF PRICES LOWERED

*Across all Budgen�’s stores subject to availability

Farmer Fear�’s Budgens Mountsorrel, Granite Way, MountsorrelTel. 04509416694Opening Hours:Monday - Friday 7.30am - 9.00pmSaturday: 8.00am - 9.00pmSunday: 10.00am - 4.00pm

.

at Burghley

The Bull & Swan

Tel www.thebullandswan.co.uk

01780 750070

Game Menu & Festive Food!



1 Ashley Farm Shop Ashley LE16 8HG

ashleyherbfarm.co.uk

2 Attfields Farm ShopWhetstone LE8 6LD

attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

3 Becketts Farm ShopWythall B47 6AJ

beckettsfarm.co.uk

4 Berry’s Farm Shop at The Cholmeley Arms

Burton-le-Coggles NG33 4JP, theeastonestate.co.uk

5 Bluebells Farm Shop Derby DE21 7BU

bluebelldairy.co.uk

6 Bouverie Lodge Nether Broughton

LE14 3EX, bisons.org

7 Chantry Farm ShopMelbourne DE73 8DD

chantryfarm.com

8 Chase Farm ShopRoughley B75 5RL

chasefarmshop.co.uk

9 Chatsworth Farm ShopBakewell DE45 1PP

chatsworth.org

10 Croot’s Farm ShopDuffield DE56 4AQ

croots.co.uk

11 Crossroads Farm Shop Eastwell LE14 4EF

http://tinyurl.com/5rodb4a

12 Dentstone HallDentstone ST14 5HF

denstonehall.co.uk

13 Dovecote Farm ShopNewton NN14 1BW

dovecotefarm.co.uk

26 Packington Moor Lichfield WS14 9QB

packingtonmoorfarm.co.uk

27 Roots at Thorpe FarmBarkby Thorpe LE7 3QE

rootsthorpefarm.co.uk

28 Saxon Farm ShopClifton-U-Dunsmore

CV23 0BB, saxonfields.co.uk

29 Scaddows Farm ShopTicknall DE73 7JP

scaddowsfarm.co.uk

30 Scotch Lodge Farm ShopEarls Barton NN6 OHQ

http://tinyurl.com/3eccbho

31 Spring Lane Farm ShopMapperley NG3 5RQ

springlanefarmshop.co.uk

32 Smiths Farm ShopChapel Brampton

NN6 8AA, smithsfarmshop.co.uk

33 Stamford Farm Shop Stamford PE9 4BB

stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

34 Stonehurst Farm ShopMountsorrel LE12 7AR

stonehurstfarm.co.uk

35 Waterloo Cottage FarmGreat Oxendon LE16 8NA

waterloocottagefarm.co.uk

36 Welbeck Farm ShopWelbeck S80 3LW

thewelbeckfarmshop.co.uk

37 Wing Hall Farm ShopWing LE15 8RY

winghall.co.uk

38 Wistow Farm ShopWistow LE8 0QF

wistow.com/rural.asp

BUTCHERS

1 W Archer & Son99 Queens Road,

Leicester LE2 1TT, 0116 2707876

2 F Bailey & Son Station Rd, Upper Broughton

LE14 3BQ, 01664 822216

3 Bates Butchers4 Church Sq, Market Harboro’

LE16 7NB, 01858 462400

4 JT Beedham & Sons Sherwood, Nottingham

NG5 2FS, jtbeedham.co.uk

Some of the region’s best farm shops and butchers. If we’ve missed somewhere you love, please let us know. Updated every issueThe aim of this map is to show you some of the best places to buy high quality local food. We can’t include every farm shop and butcher in the region, so we’re featuring outlets you have recommended or ones we’ve visited and like. This issue we’ve added Flitteriss Park Farm near Oakham, Four Seasons Farm Shop, Sleaford, and Sauls of Spratton, Northants. If you’ve visited a great place, let us know. Email [email protected] or tweet @greatfoodmag

F!" sh#s & butch$5 Chellaston Butchers

11 Derby Road, Chellaston DE73 5SA, 01332 701131

6 Clarke’s of QueniboroughQueniborough LE7 3DB

clarkesqueniborough.co.uk

7 David Cox ButchersStathern LE14 4HW

www.butchercox.co.uk

8 Derek Jones Butchers51 King St, Melton

LE13 1XB, 01664 565328

9 GW DundasBreaston DE72 3DX

gwdundas.co.uk

10 Jason’s Organic ButcherCotesbach LE17 4HX

jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

11 Gamble & HollisSyston LE7 2JT

0116 2603300

12 Grasmere ButchersMarket Deeping

PE6 8DL, grasmere-farm.co.uk

13 Hambletons Fine FoodsOakham LE15 8AQ

hambletonfarms.co.uk

14 Clive LancasterBingham NG13 8BD

clivelancasterbutchers.co.uk

15 Joseph MorrisSouth Kilworth LE17 6EG

joseph-morris.co.uk

16 NelsonsStamford PE9 1PB

nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

17 Frank ParkerNuneaton CV11 5DT

frankparkerbutchers.co.uk

18 Mark PatrickBirstall LE4 4NB

markpatrickbutchers.co.uk

19 Sauls of SprattonSpratton NN6 8HH

saulsofspratton.co.uk

20 Trendall’sOundle PE8 4BQ

trendalls.com

21 WF Chapman Lutterworth LE17 4AT

wfchapman.co.uk

14 Doddington Hall Doddington LN6 4RU

doddingtonhall.com

15 Farndon FieldsMarket Harboro’ LE16 9NP

farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

16 Flitteriss Park FarmBraunston-in-Rutland

LE15 8QX (stand at Oakham farmers’ market)thesausagesite.co.uk

17 Four Seasons Farm ShopSleaford NG34 8NY

fourseasonsgardencentre.co.uk

18 Glebe Farm ShopNear Kettering NN16 8XF

glebefarmshop.co.uk

19 Gonalston Farm ShopGonalston NG14 7DR

gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

20 Harker’s Farm ShopClipston NG12 5PB

harkersfarmshop.co.uk

21 Highfield House FarmStonedge S45 0LW

highfieldhousefarm.co.uk

22 Malt Kiln Farm ShopStretton-Under-Fosse

CV23 0PE, maltkilnfarm shop.co.uk

23 Manor Farm ShopCatthorpe LE17 6DB

manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk

24 Mellors Farm ShopMilton NG22 0PP

mellorsfarmshop.co.uk

25 Northfield Farm ShopCold Overton LE15 7QF

northfieldfarm.com

3

26

8

9

12

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Solihull

Staffs



!s & butch"

2117

18

20

10

12

19

16

1113

14

15

8

6

4

2

1

5

7

19

17

16

22

20

23

21

24

2527

38

37

36

32

34

33

35

28

29

30

31

97

5

3

1

2

4

6

14

11

18

15

10

13

Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

CoventryRugby

Warwick

Leamington

Kettering

Market HarboroughCorby Oundle

Stilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

SleafordLincs

Rutland

Notts

Derbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

MansfieldOllerton

Welbeck

Map by Graham Wright

Ke#Outlets where you can buy Great Food magazine

Farm shops

Butchers

SPONSORED BY...



Farm shops & butchers

www.burghley.co.uk ! 01780 752451

A celebration of local produceA chance to purchase a variety of seasonal & locallysourced food & drink including cheeses, rare breed

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FREE ADMISSION & PARKING

Saturday 3rd - Sunday 4thDecember10am - 3pm

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2 COURSES £8.95 3 COURSES £11.95

A la carte available. Fully Licensed

Caffé ITALIA- Deli ITALIAAuthentic Italian Bistro

AVAILABLETO BOOK FOR CHRISTMAS PARTIES

10 Church Street, Melton Mowbray,

LE13 0PNTel. 01664 561777

Caffe Opening Times:9 – 3pm Mon to Thurs,9 – 11pm Fri and Sat,

DelicatessenOpening Times:

10 – 4pm Tues to Sat

Dining OutWhether indulging in a !ne dining dinner in the restaurant, a relaxed lunch or Afternoon Tea in the lounge, enjoy amazing food and unobtrusive service in uniquely elegant surroundings

If you would like further information, contact us on 01572 787 000 or visit www.staplefordpark.com A member of

Small Luxury Hotels of the WorldStapleford Park, Stapleford, nr. Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 2E

THE THREE HORSESHOES INNBreedon-on-the-Hill Derby DE73 8AN

Tel: 01332 695129

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Morning Coffee & Brunch 10.30-12.00noon Lunch 12noon-2pm & Dinner 5.30-9.00pm

Sunday Lunch from 12 noon ~ CLOSED Sunday Evening.


Flitteriss Park Farm, Rutland

CONTACTFlitteriss Park Farm, Knossington Road, Braunston-in-Rutland, near Oakham, LE15 8QX 01572 722266, thesausagesite.co.uk

WORDS & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

T wo miles from Braunston-in-Rutland lies Flitteriss Park, a 13th century deer park that once provided sport for the

medieval aristocracy. Today, 250-acre Flitteriss Park Farm sits on that old hunting zone and is home to 600 sheep, 40 calves and 10 Gloucester Old Spot sows. The man in charge of the land and beasts is 25-year-old ex-Oakham School boy James MacCartney, who has recently returned to the family farm after completing a three-year degree in land management at Circencester’s Royal Agricultural College. James, whose family has farmed here since 1939, is passionate about farming and loves his work. “I trained to be a chartered surveyor but soon realised that agriculture was for me,” he says.

Most lambs raised on Flitteriss Park Farm are sold to supermarkets. But it’s more profitable – and satisfying – for James to sell directly to the public. So every Wednesday and Friday you’ll find him at Oakham and Uppingham markets respectively, selling Flitteriss Park lamb, sausages, burgers and more. “We also sell via our website and supply farm shops such as Stamford Garden Centre and Willow Brook near Helpston. Pubs that buy our meat include the Grainstore in Oakham and King’s Arms in Wing.”

As a young farmer just starting out in business, it could be argued that James represents the future of the smaller end of the British food industry. And if so it would appear to be in good hands – he has an impressively pragmatic, business-oriented approach. He knows his figures – “40% of customers’ purchasing decisions are based on what they hear and can see rather than taste”; has studied animal genetics – “I could

bore you about it all day”; and is not about to throw cash away on unproven business models – “our website needs to make more before I can justify spending money on it.”

If you visit Oakham or Uppingham markets, why not find James’s stall

It’s all in the breeding“We mainly have North Country Mules on Flitteriss Park Farm,” says James. “This variety is bred in the north of Britain so is hardy and can rear two lambs a lot more easily than a continental or a lowland sheep. We breed them with Charollais and Meatlinc rams, which creates lambs with the toughness of the Mules and the muscle of the sires. We then keep the best lambs back for breeding to gradually improve the flock.” James supports rare-breed farmers but believes that some in the food industry are using the label ‘rare breed’ as a marketing ploy.

Meet James MacCartney, a 25-year-old farmer fresh out of agricultural college, who tends 250 acres of Rutland turf...

James feeds his Gloucester

Old Spots

Flitteriss Park Farm at Melton Country Fair

Left: Eric and George

and try some of the meat that he’s raised nearby? It would be hard to purchase produce with fewer food miles, and you’d be supporting a small local business that helps to look after the local environment. • Flitteriss Park Farm is part of Great Food Club – see page 10 for more details.

{ }“We sell lamb, pork and beef at

Oakham and Uppingham

markets and also supply local pubs and farm shops”

James MacCartney

James MacCartney and the fields of

Flitteriss Park Farm

Local producer/farm shop


- Call us on 0116 230 3663Blyth-Richmond | Authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority

or visit www.blyth-richmond.co.uk

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independent family run business. To maintain integrity and fl exibility, we are 100% fee based. This allows us to offer the full spectrum of investment opportunities and – importantly – means we do not sell products or services to gain commission. Our only interest is in providing the best possible investment strategy to fi t

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The Black BullMarket Overton, Rutland

Kev & Kristy give a warm welcomeand a fun, friendly atmosphere

Live MusicReal Ales

Cosy RoomsFine WinesGreat Food

Locally Sourced

01572 767677

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P82

Recipes from a veg patch

P84

A special house for sale

P89

How to make decorations

P90

New! The Practical Pantry

IN YOUR HOME AND KITCHEN SECTION...

The perfect place to cook turkey p86

HOME&KITCHEN

Where food and drink meets lifestyle

C!"tm# k$che%



T o say the weather this year was unusual would be a bit of an understatement. It was the driest spring on

record, followed by a drab, come-to-nothing summer, then we got a scorcher of a week in early October.

All of this provides something of a challenge for the vegetable gardener, but we all like a challenge, right? Looking on the bright side, that autumn heatwave ripened a few tomatoes I had given up on, and the wet summer meant my water butt was always full…

So what of winter? Well, it’s a bit of a lean spell for growing, but there are still things to be planted and jobs to be done.

In December you can plant peas – look for an early variety, such as Feltham First – or broad beans. Put the peas in a shallow tray, or even in a length of guttering, and keep them in a greenhouse, covered framework or on window cill. Once you’ve got strong-looking seedlings, you can plant them in your veg patch.

Broad beans can go straight into the ground, but as with the peas, you’ll want to cover your seedlings with a polytunnel, cloche or even an old fleece when frost is predicted.

If all goes well, you’ll be tucking into your peas and beans as early as May – something to look forward to during the cold months ahead! Other than that, winter is about planning and preparation. Remove all the old crops from your patch, add a layer of compost and turn it over. Later in

winter, dig a trench where you’re planning on growing runner beans and fill it with rotted vegetation from your compost heap. In spring, cover it with soil and sow your beans.

If you haven’t got a compost heap, now’s a good time to get one. You can use a plastic bin (before you head out to buy one, ask your local council or tip, as many offer them at reduced prices as part of their composting schemes) or have an open compost heap in an unused corner of your garden.

We have both a bin and a heap because there was an established

Composting tips and festive fruit recipes from Rutland gardener Charlie Boyd VEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHHo! to creat" your...

Charlie’s fruit harvest in his new Rutland

garden has led to some good apple crumbles

You can plant broad beans in December and they should be ready by May

pile when we moved in (home to a self-seeded jungle of tomato plants) and a friend gave us a plastic bin.

The compost from the bottom of the established heap was excellent (and free!), and what could be more self-sufficient than using compost made up of the old crops from your patch?

Compost tipsTry to balance your wet and dry compost ingredients. If you’re adding lots of cut grass and veg scraps, you might want to add torn-up cardboard, too – and vice versa. A good compost is made up of a good balance of ‘green’ and ‘brown’ items. It should not smell and should be alive with munching mini-beasts. Once in a while, stick a fork in and give it a good turning over to get some air into it.

COMPOSTDO’SGreen materialsFruit & veg peelingsCoffee groundsGrass cuttingsHayHouseplantsFlowers Horse manure

Brown materialsAutumn leaves (small quantities)CardboardCotton woolEgg boxesEgg shellsNatural corksNutsPaper bagsStrawKitchen paperWood ashTeabagsSweetcorn cobsHoover contents!

COMPOST DON’TSBonesBreadCat litterCoal ashDairy productsMeat & fish scrapsOlive oilPlastics

Winter is all about preparation!


VEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHpart fourFruits of your labour

Pears poached in mulled wineOur pear trees had mixed fortunes this year. One was hit by severe brown rot, while the other produced a sizeable crop. They were all shapes and sizes, so this recipe is a way of hiding those imperfections behind a wall of deep red booze! You don’t have to stick to the recipe – use whatever’s in your cupboard. Just pick things that taste like Christmas. You could also add mace, five spice powder or a slug of your homemade sloe gin (add this just before serving, with the pan off the heat).

* 1 bottle red wine

* 4 pears

* 1 cinnamon stick

* 1 star anise

* 1 bay leaf

* Half an orange

* 450g apricots * 6 tsp sultanas

* 700ml water * 2 tsp salt

* 350ml red wine vinegar

* 400g caster sugar

* 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

* 1 tsp garam masala (or your own favoured spice mix)

* 60g demerara or other brown sugar

* Pinch grated nutmeg

* 1 vanilla pod, sliced lengthways, or a dash of vanilla extract

1 Put everything bar the pears in a saucepan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Taste and add more sugar if you think it needs it.2 Carefully add the pears, peeled but with stalks left on.3 Poach the pears, covered, for 20-30 minutes – but keep checking, time depends on size. They’re ready when you can slide a wooden skewer all the way through with ease.

4 Remove pears from pan. Set aside.5 Strain the liquid into a fresh pan and boil to reduce by half.6 Allow syrupy wine mixture to cool, then pour over your pears.

Kath’s Apricot Preserve Indian-style apricot chutneyYou may remember that in the

summer I froze our haul of apricots. Here are two very different ways to make your apricots go a long way. Our neighbour Kath asked if she could take a few of our apricots. The next day, she returned with a jar of this wonderful stuff. Here’s her not-so-secret recipe.

This is a homegrown alternative to the delicious mango chutney we’re used to spooning over our poppadoms.

1 Wash, halve and stone apricots.2 Put apricots, sugar and water into a large pan.3 Bring to the boil, stirring until the jam sets when it is dropped onto a cold plate – this should take around 20-30 minutes.4 Remove scum from surface then pour hot jam (be careful, it’s very, very hot) into warm, sterilised jars.5 Tighten the lids and set aside.6 The apricot jam should keep for around six months.

1 Wash, half and stone apricots.2 Put apricots and water into a large pan.3 Boil for 10 minutes, then strain.4 At this point you can either peel the apricots and mash into a fine pulp, or leave them as they are for a more chunky chutney.5 Put apricots back in the pan with about 100ml of water and cook until water is absorbed.6 Add vinegar, salt, sugar, chilli, masala and sultanas and cook until thick and golden brown.7 Pour hot chutney into warm, sterilised jars.8 Tighten the lids and set aside.9 The chutney should keep for around a year.

* 2kg apricots

* 2kg granulated sugar

* 150ml water

CHRISTMAS TIPTry using apricot jam

as a glaze on a baked ham. Brush it on for the final

half hour in the oven

CHRISTMAS TIPChristmas pud too heavy

for you? These pears are a warming but light

Christmas Day alternative


Beautiful property in East Leake with spectacular kitchen and fruity garden

DREAM HOME FOR SALE

T his five-bedroom detached house in the village of East Leake, north Leicestershire, is on the market for £795,000 at the time of going to press. Food-lovers will be impressed by the 5m x 8m solid wood kitchen. The central island with granite worktop is perfect for a bit of home butchery, and with all that space you

could hang enough chorizo from the light fittings to go round the moon! There’s also a Rangemaster cooker, a Belfast sink and the flooring is limestone. French doors lead to the patio and rear garden.

Outside, the rear garden is enclosed by mature hedging and a brick wall –it’s perfect for a barbecue (or woodfired oven – see p42). In summer you can sit in the shade of several mature fruit trees, get to work in the potting shed or get green fingers in the fruit and vegetable beds.

East Leake’s food credentialsHandily placed for Leicester or Nottingham, East Leake is also close to Great Food contributor Danny Jimminson’s restaurant, the Hammer & Pincers at Wymeswold (p57), where there’s also a highly regarded butcher – Collington’s – and freshly refurbished pub under new ownership – The Windmill.

Drawing room (9m x 5m) has open-fronted fireplace

with oak surround

Reception hall comes with

original herringbone

pattern wood block flooring

(dog not included)

Spacious kitchen could double as a dancefloor


Limestone flooring creates a beautifully clean look. And is

easy to wash down!

Top tip: a few millimetres of fabric at each xxrner of the

THE PROPERTY Located in East Leake, Leics: detached, flexible split-level design

TENURE Freehold

BEDROOMS Five

BATHROOMS Two

INTERIOR Reception hall; drawing room; kitchen; study; dining room/summer lounge; games room with bar area; utility room; three en-suites.

GARDENS & GROUNDS Front and rear garden on half-acre plot; lots of vegetable growing areas and fruit trees; greenhouse; potting shed and garden shed, plenty of outside lighting.

GUIDE PRICE £795,000

ON SALE WITH Benton’s, 47 Nottingham St, Melton Mowbray, LE13 1NN 01664 563892, www.bentons.co.uk

Two double garage doors enough for you?

house fact file

Games area is perfect for keeping

the kids entertained or could be used as a

cinema room

House is on a half-acre plot with 5000 sq ft of living space

APPLES AND PEARS

Garden has lots of fruit trees for serious

jam-making – see p50

Family bathroom with freestanding claw-foot bath


DREAM KITCHENHere’s one for your Christmas list: a John Lewis Windsor kitchen

WOODDoors are made of ash, which has a prominent grain that shows through the paint.

FITTER PROFILE

NAME: John Lewis

WHERE? Outlets in Leicester,

Nottingham, Peterborough,

Cambridge and Tamworth.

HOW MUCH? From £35,000

including installation.

BEST ADVICE ONGETTING ANEW KITCHEN?

”Budget is one of the first questions

we’ll ask, as it helps us to guide you

to the appropriate ranges,” says

Jude Keenan, John Lewis kitchen

planner. “Also, assess who uses

your kitchen and how they want to

use it. This will reveal how to best

distribute the budget.”

Instead of nosing around a reader’s kitchen, in this issue we’re lusting after a kitchen

that could be yours. If you’ve got more than £35,000 to spend, that is. We were very taken with John Lewis’s solid-looking and timeless Windsor design, and after all the effort that its PR people had clearly gone to arranging Christmas decorations for the photo, we couldn’t resist giving it pride of place in the Home & Kitchen section.

The detailsKitchens aren’t its core business, but smartypants John Lewis still came top in an April 2011 Which? kitchen satisfaction survey. Its ‘personalisable’ Windsor kitchen uses an in-frame design – so each cabinet door sits within a frame rather than on top of one – and is in the Shaker style. It’s available in an oak finish or you can choose from 18 shades, or even mix your own colours. We’re still drooling.

CONTACTThis kitchen is from John Lewis’s Christmas 2011 Collection. For more information visit your local JL store or go to www.johnlewis.com

Christmas specia!!


Units, like this wine chiller, can be incorporated into the design.

DECK THE HALLS!

Boost your kitchen with homemade decorations –

see p89

Colour-matched splashbacks,

available in a variety of materials, are nice and subtle.

HANDLESYou can choose from eight different cupboard handle designs, including stainless steel, ceramic and pewter.

L O R D N E L S O NC O U N T R Y P U B & D I N I N G

LORD NELSON, GAINSBOROUGH ROAD, WINTHORPE, NEWARK, NOTTINGHAM NG24 2NN

TEL 01636 703 578 LORDNELSONWINTHORPE.CO.UK

SERVING LUNCH & DINNER 7 DAYSSunday lunch 12-4pm - 2 courses from £12.95Enjoy dining for less - Mon-Fri 3 courses £17.507th Heaven - 7 Dishes for £7 - 6-7pm 7 Days

Visit our studios in Stamford & Bourne



Ho! to mak"FABRIC CHRISTMAS DECORATIONSGreat as presents or for giving your home that individual touch

1Draw your chosen shape on some card – a star, heart, whatever you like. Cut the shape out and you have your template. Get your chosen fabric and draw around the shape.

ABOUT THE WRITER

Forest ElfEmily Holt – aka Forest Elf – has a brand new home accessories and vintage clothing shop at the Stable Yard, Cotesbach, Leics. Visit the Forest Elf website: www.forestelf.co.uk 5Set your sewing machine to the zig zag setting and sew round the

fabric. You are sewing all three pieces of fabric and felt, plus the looped ribbon in one go. Finally, sew a button at the top of the

decoration to add more detail. There you have it!

5

2 2Cut out the fabric with pinking shears (this stops the

fabric fraying).

Tip: If you have any scraps of fabric it’s a good way to use them

4 4 Get some ribbon long enough to use

as a loop to hang from a Christmas tree or hook. Make a loop and insert between the felt. Pin together to hold in place.

3Now grab your felt and cut round the shape again, making it a few centimetres larger than the first. Then repeat with a different colour felt. You could also add organza between the fabric and felt to add shine.

3

SUBSCRIBE!Get the next six issues of Great Food delivered –

see p13

What you’ll need* Scissors * Pinking shears

* Card * Coloured felt

* Fabric * Thread

* Ribbon * Sewing machine and kit (or

* Buttons you can hand-sew them)

These homemade fabric Christmas decorations are easy to make, cheap and make a good alternative to Christmas cards – send them to friends and family with a greeting inside and they can be brought out year after year, rather than thrown in the recycling after a few days. You could make them with the kids (a good opportunity for them to learn how to hand-sew) and get them to decide what type of fabric, colours and shapes to use. How about one in the shape of a pork pie?!

Send them instead of Christmas cards


W elcome to the Practical Pantry. Each issue I will explore how seemingly simple, seasonal

ingredients can magically transform a meal, our mood, and our wellbeing.

While working as a product developer in the wellbeing and natural beauty industry I learned to appreciate how clever natural ingredients are. It is this admiration for fruits, flowers, essential oils, herbs and spices that informs my own lifestyle as well as my life’s work as a fine chocolatier and patissier. I’m looking forward to sharing my passion with readers of Great Food.

‘Tis nearly Christmas. Exciting, right? Hmmm…while December is a unique time of year when we’re at liberty to go ‘wild in the aisles’ why does it often take until Christmas Eve before we even raise a smile, never mind a cheer? Christmas stops for no man and in between shopping, school runs, work and slam-dunks with Sellotape, we somehow have to find the energy to have the most fun we’ve had all year. The pressure to feel joyous is precisely what can put the kibosh on our mood. Bleak and bluesy, we wish our way through cold days and dark nights in the

hope that Christmas will breeze by and spring will come early. That’s no way to celebrate. Here are a few suggestions for bringing on a little bit of festive bounce with the most gloriously clever and cheery of all fruits, the ever so sunny orange.

The humble orange will give you a

festive lift

DRINKNon-alcoholic Clementine Bellini The perfect Christmas morning pep-up if you feel like keeping your head while all around are losing theirs! Squeeze the juice of two clementines into a Champagne flute. Top up with sparkling water or lemonade and add a sprig of mint.

SKIN/MOODMost of us will experience environmentally sensitive skin during winter. It can be severely uncomfortable and is difficult to treat. Everything from central heating, cold and wind come into play. Even water can feel offensive. Essential oil Orange Flower Water is wonderful for comforting and prepping this kind of seasonally delicate skin. Spritz all over your face (inhaling the uplifting aroma as you go) and gently pat into the skin with the palms of your hands. Follow with your usual routine. Men aren’t excluded here – it’s a great soother for sore, newly shaved skin too.

TRY: Neroli Blossom Mist from Doux Me, £16.50 (100ml) douxme.com

WELLBEINGNever underestimate the power of smell... and relaxation. At the end of a working day we can all benefit from a long, hot restorative bath. This cheery Geranium and Orange Blossom Bath Oil blend from Neal’s Yard will lift you from December’s doldrums and have you skipping

around the house like a spring lamb. Maybe!

TRY: Geranium & Orange Bath Oil from Neal’s Yard, £14 (100ml), nealsyard remedies.com

NEW SERIES!

Your first dose of foodie wellbeing tips. More next issue

SEASON TO BE CHEERFULHow to survive Christmas and come out the other side glowing. By Shelly Preston

Shelly Preston (pictured right) is founder of Boutique Aromatique, a brand specialising in fine fragrant chocolates that has an outlet within Welbeck Farm Shop near Worksop – www.boutiquearomatique.com and @BAromatique on Twitter

Th! Practica" Pantr#

FOODTurkey, Orange, Fennel and Pomegranate Salad with Roasted Butternut Squash Alcohol and fatty foods play havoc with our mood and energy levels. Buffer festive toxins and give your body a boost with this vitamin-packed, cleansing salad.

Salad:

* 1 butternut squash

* Cold, sliced turkey * 1/2 fennel bulb

* 1 orange (segmented) * 1 pomegranate

* Handful pine nuts * Mint, basil & rocket

Dressing:

* 4 tbsp rapeseed oil * Salt & black pepper

* 1 medium orange (juice and zest)

1 Heat the oven to Gas 5 (190°C). Peel and cut a butternut squash into thick chip shapes. Put in a

roasting tray, drizzle with oil and season. Roast for an hour (turning once after half an hour).

2 To make the dressing, mix the oil and juice of one orange in a bowl, stir, add salt and

pepper to taste. Set aside.

3 Toast the pine nuts, set aside and keep warm. Slice the fennel bulb as thinly as

you can – a mandoline is useful. Peel and separate the segments from the skins of the second orange and pop the seeds of the pomegranate into a bowl.

4 In a salad bowl, combine everything with a small amount of dressing. Throw in a

generous handful of shredded rocket, mint and basil, and scatter with warm pine nuts.

DOUX ME

NEROLI

BLOSSOM

MIST

£16.50 (100ml)

NEAL’S YARD GERANIUM & ORANGE BATH OIL £14 (100ml)

CHILLI SPECIALComing up in the next issue of Great Food magazine

JOIN THE CLUB!Subscribe to Great Food magazine and get FREE membership

to Great Food Club. Offer open until December 31, 2011

Turn to page 13

Get a subscription to Great Food

as a Christmas gift – p13

* The region’s hottest restaurants * Local chilli farms revealed* Curry chefs get cooking

Winter issue is out on January 5, 2012


We sell only the highest quality beef, lamb, pork and turkey, grown on our farms or carefully sourced from one of our specialist suppliers.

-

PREPARED MEATSBUTCHER DELI PIES CHEESES READY MEALS PRE

FOR A HOMEGROWN AND TRULY LOCAL CHRISTMAS!

STORES AT

BECKWORTH EMPORIUM

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8. great food magazine nov/dec 2011

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