87:6069 the energy source for the coastal-trapped waves in the australian coastal experiment region

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922 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1987) 34 ( I 1) 87:6063 Tang, Yuxiang and K.-T. Tee, 1987. Effects of mean and tidal current interaction on the tidally induced residual current. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(2):215-230. A weakly nonlinear depth-dependent tidal model is applied to the northern and southern sides of Georges Bank. The weakly nonlinear approximation is reasonable for the southern section, but only marginally applicable to the deep water area of the northern section. Dynamical interpretations for various effects of the mean and tidal current interaction on the tidal and residual currents are presented. First Inst. of Oceanogr., Natl. Bur. of Oceanogr., Qingdao, People's Republic of China. 87:6064 Wong, K.-C., 1987. Tidal and subtidal variability in Delaware's inland bays. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(3):413-422. Five tidal constituents are active in the bays, M 2 being the most important one. The inland bays behave like low-pass filters for oceanic disturbances propagating into the bays. Tidal variance decreases sharply inside the bays, with the semidiurnal tides suffering greater attenuation than the diurnal tides. At subtidal frequencies, sea level fluctuations in the interior are primarily forced by coastal sea level fluctuations generated by atmospheric forcing on the adjacent shelf. Local wind forcing within the bays appears to play a secondary role in modifying coastally forced sea level. Coll. of Mar. Studies, Univ. of Delaware, Neward, DE 19716, USA. AI60. Waves, oscillations 87:6065 Abe, Katsuyuki, Motohiko Hakuno, Mikio Takeuchi and Toshiyuki Katada, 1986. Survey report on the tsunami of the Michoacan, Mexico earth. quake of September 19, 1985. Bull. Earthq. Res. Inst., Univ. Tokyo, 61(3):475-481. Earthquake Res. Inst., Univ. of Tokyo, Japan. 87:6066 Aranuvachapun, S., 1987. Parameters of JONSWAP spectral model for surface gravity waves. II. Predictability from real data. Ocean Engng, 14(2): 101-115. Continuous wave data from Scilly Isles during two storms in December 1981 were analyzed; time series of the hourly wave spectrum at 80 degrees of freedom were examined. Significant correlations between the scale parameters were found during both storms, implying that the scale parameters may be associated with the geophysical factors. Exeter Univ., Dept. of Math. Statistics and Operational Res., Streatham Court, Rennes Dr., Exeter EX4 4PU, UK. 87:6067 Aranuvachapun, S., 1987. Parameters of JONSWAP spectral model for surface gravity waves. I. Monte Carlo simulation study. Ocean Engng, 14(2):89- 100. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral es- timates where the sampling errors have been mini- mized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The simulation experiments showed that simulated spectra at 20-40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors; therefore measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom are not suitable for evaluating the accuracy of a wave spectral model. Exeter Univ., Dept. of Math. Statistics and Operational Res., Streatham Court, Rennes Dr., Exeter EX4 4PU, UK. 87:6068 Ataktt~rk, S.S. and K.B. Katsaros, 1987. Intrinsic frequency spectra of short gravity-capillary waves obtained from temporal measurements of wave height on a lake. J. geophys. Res., 92(C5):5131- 5141. Intrinsic frequency spectra of water waves in the range of 6-17 Hz were obtained as a function of both wind speed and wind stress from point measurements of wave height. Experimental results showed that the spectral energy of short waves rapidly increased in response to increasing winds and jumped up by an order of magnitude when wave breaking occurred. Dept. of Atmos. Sci., Univ. of Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA. 87:6069 Church, J.A. and H.J. Freeland, 1987. The energy source for the coastal-trapped waves in the Australian Coastal Experiment region. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(3):289-300. Sea level on the south Australian coast is examined for the source of coastal-trapped wave energy. Over a 24-day period, some energy travels south but does not reach mainland Australia, while some travels through Bass Strait to reach the east coast. Over an eight day period pressure-adjusted sea levels are

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Page 1: 87:6069 The energy source for the coastal-trapped waves in the Australian coastal experiment region

922 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1987) 34 ( I 1 )

87:6063 Tang, Yuxiang and K.-T. Tee, 1987. Effects of mean

and tidal current interaction on the tidally induced residual current. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(2):215-230.

A weakly nonlinear depth-dependent tidal model is applied to the northern and southern sides of Georges Bank. The weakly nonlinear approximation is reasonable for the southern section, but only marginally applicable to the deep water area of the northern section. Dynamical interpretations for various effects of the mean and tidal current interaction on the tidal and residual currents are presented. First Inst. of Oceanogr., Natl. Bur. of Oceanogr., Qingdao, People's Republic of China.

87:6064 Wong, K.-C., 1987. Tidal and subtidal variability in

Delaware's inland bays. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(3):413-422.

Five tidal constituents are active in the bays, M 2 being the most important one. The inland bays behave like low-pass filters for oceanic disturbances propagating into the bays. Tidal variance decreases sharply inside the bays, with the semidiurnal tides suffering greater attenuation than the diurnal tides. At subtidal frequencies, sea level fluctuations in the interior are primarily forced by coastal sea level fluctuations generated by atmospheric forcing on the adjacent shelf. Local wind forcing within the bays appears to play a secondary role in modifying coastally forced sea level. Coll. of Mar. Studies, Univ. of Delaware, Neward, DE 19716, USA.

AI60. Waves, oscillations

87:6065 Abe, Katsuyuki, Motohiko Hakuno, Mikio Takeuchi

and Toshiyuki Katada, 1986. Survey report on the tsunami of the Michoacan, Mexico earth. quake of September 19, 1985. Bull. Earthq. Res. Inst., Univ. Tokyo, 61(3):475-481. Earthquake Res. Inst., Univ. of Tokyo, Japan.

87:6066 Aranuvachapun, S., 1987. Parameters of JONSWAP

spectral model for surface gravity waves. II. Predictability from real data. Ocean Engng, 14(2): 101-115.

Continuous wave data from Scilly Isles during two storms in December 1981 were analyzed; time series of the hourly wave spectrum at 80 degrees of freedom were examined. Significant correlations between the scale parameters were found during

both storms, implying that the scale parameters may be associated with the geophysical factors. Exeter Univ., Dept. of Math. Statistics and Operational Res., Streatham Court, Rennes Dr., Exeter EX4 4PU, UK.

87:6067 Aranuvachapun, S., 1987. Parameters of JONSWAP

spectral model for surface gravity waves. I. Monte Carlo simulation study. Ocean Engng, 14(2):89- 100.

The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral es- timates where the sampling errors have been mini- mized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The simulation experiments showed that simulated spectra at 20-40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors; therefore measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom are not suitable for evaluating the accuracy of a wave spectral model. Exeter Univ., Dept. of Math. Statistics and Operational Res., Streatham Court, Rennes Dr., Exeter EX4 4PU, UK.

87:6068 Ataktt~rk, S.S. and K.B. Katsaros, 1987. Intrinsic

frequency spectra of short gravity-capillary waves obtained from temporal measurements of wave height on a lake. J. geophys. Res., 92(C5):5131- 5141.

Intrinsic frequency spectra of water waves in the range of 6-17 Hz were obtained as a function of both wind speed and wind stress from point measurements of wave height. Experimental results showed that the spectral energy of short waves rapidly increased in response to increasing winds and jumped up by an order of magnitude when wave breaking occurred. Dept. of Atmos. Sci., Univ. of Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA.

87:6069 Church, J.A. and H.J. Freeland, 1987. The energy

source for the coastal-trapped waves in the Australian Coastal Experiment region. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(3):289-300.

Sea level on the south Australian coast is examined for the source of coastal-trapped wave energy. Over a 24-day period, some energy travels south but does not reach mainland Australia, while some travels through Bass Strait to reach the east coast. Over an eight day period pressure-adjusted sea levels are

Page 2: 87:6069 The energy source for the coastal-trapped waves in the Australian coastal experiment region

OLR (1987) 34 ( I I) A. Physical Oceanography 923

coherent over the 3700 km coastline from southern Australia to the east coast, and much wind-forced coastal-trapped energy appears to travel ~ia Bass Strait to the mainland east coast. It is suggested that at low frequencies long wavelength waves are not affected by small gaps in the coastline, but at higher frequencies breaks in the coastline influence the smaller wavelengths; that first and second coastal- trapped wave modes are generated when east-west flow through Bass Strait adjusts to the narrow shelf of the east Australian coast; and that the second mode is preferentially generated because its length scale approximates the north-south extent of this east-west flow. Div. of Oceanogr., CSIRO Mar. Lab., Hobart, Tas. 7001, Australia.

87:6070 Efimov, V.V., V.G. Polnikov and E.N. Sychev, 1986.

Investigation of properties of spectral model of wind waves by the SWAMP test system. Soy. Met. Hydrol. (a translation of Meteorologiya Gidrol.), 10:57-63. Mar. Hydrophysical Inst., USSR.

87:6071 Garzoli, S.L., 1987. Forced oscillations on the

equatorial Atlantic Basin during the Seasonal Response of the Equatorial Atlantic Program (1983-1984). J. geophys. Res., 92(C5):5089-5100.

The data are analyzed to study both low- and high-frequency variability. At low frequencies the equatorial basin responds as a whole to the season- ally varying winds. The dominant signal is the annual cycle of the equatorial system as a composite of the response to the strong seasonal wind curl. Three bands of energy appear dominant in the combined spectrum of ocean and atmosphere at higher frequencies: 20-30 days, 13-16 days, and the inertial gravity wave band. Lamont-Doherty Geolog. Observ., Palisades, NY 10964, USA.

87:6072 Giese, G.S. and R.B. Hollander, 1987. The rela-

tionship between coastal seiches at Palawan Island and tide-generated internal waves in the Sulu Sea. J. geophys. Res., 92(C5):5151-5156.

A rigorous analysis of tide records from Puerto Princesa in the Philippines demonstrates that the harbor's fortnightly varying seiche activity is coher- ent with the cycle of spring-neap tides in the Sulu Sea and lags it by 2.9 days. This closely matches the time required for formation and travel of tide- generated internal solitary waves northwestward across the Sulu Sea and strongly supports the hypothesis that coastal seiches can derive their energy from tidal currents and internal waves. The

quantity of energy transferred from the tide to the seiches has a pronounced seasonal variability pos- sibly related to seasonal variations in wind stress. Accurate predictions of tide-produced seiches may not be possible without a sound theoretical under- standing of the energy transfer mechanisms of deep-sea internal waves. WHOI, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA.

87:6073 Go, Ch.N., V.M. Kaistrenko, E.N. Pelinovskii and

K.V. Simonov, 1986. Forecast of tsunami danger to the Kamchatka coast. Soy. Met. Hydrol. (a translation of Meteorologiya Gidrol.), 7:65-70.

87:6074 Hedges, T.S. (comment), J.T. Kirby and R.A.

Dalrymple (reply), 1987. [Discussion of] An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models. Coast. Engng, Amst., 11(1):87-92.

87:6075 Heron, M.L., 1987. Directional spreading of short

wavelength fetch-limited wind waves. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(2):281-285.

Observations of the spreading of short-wavelength (5 m) wind waves have been made with a steerable HF ocean surface radar in the nearshore zone in a stable offshore airflow. The directional spreading lobe is significantly broader than that predicted from the model by Hasselmann et al. It appears that the spreading lobe is broader at high frequencies than at lower frequencies for f/f,, ratios near unity in a fetch-limited wind wave spectrum which has a peak at frequency f,,. Phys. Dept., James Cook Univ., Townsville, 4811, Australia.

87:6076 Katsis, C. and T.R. Akylas, 1987. On the excitation

of long nonlinear water waves by a moving pressure distribution. Part 2. Three-dimensional effects. J. Fluid Mech., 177:49-65.

The three-dimensional wave pattern generated by a moving pressure distribution of finite extent acting on the surface of water of depth h is studied. When the pressure distribution travels at a speed near the linear-long-wave speed, response is governed by a forced nonlinear Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation which describes a balance between linear dispersive, nonlinear and three-dimensional effects. Dept. of Mech. Engng, MIT, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA.

87:6077 Lavrenov, I.V., 1986. Behavior of the surface gravity

wave spectrum on a horizontally nonuniform