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    AGREEMENT ON TEXTILES

    AND CLOTHING

    Presentation to Post Qualification Course in

    International Trade Laws & WTO

    on9thJuly 2005

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    STRUCTURE OF PRESENTATION

    Part I: A Brief History of Restrictions onTextile and Clothing Trade

    Part II: The Six Key Elements of the

    Agreement on Textiles & Clothing.

    Part III: The Product Coverage of the ATC

    The Annex.

    Part IV: The Integration of Textiles and

    Clothing Products into GATT Rules

    Part V: Implementation of the Integration

    Process.

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    Contd

    Part VI: Improvements in Restraint Growth Rates.

    Part VII: The Application of Growth Rate Factors.

    Part VIII: Removal of Quantitative Restrictions

    Other Than MFA RestraintsArticle 3.Part IX: The Transitional Safeguard Mechanism

    Part X: Monitoring, Surveillance and Review

    Article 8

    Part XI: Notification Obligations.

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    A BRIEF HISTORY OF RESTRICTIONS

    ON TEXTILE & CLOTHING TRADE

    Introduction

    The Cotton Arrangements (1961-73)

    The Multifibre Arrangements (1974-94)

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    INTRODUCTION

    Special Regime for more than 40 years,outside the normal GATT Rules.

    Special regimes: Short Term Arrangement Regarding

    International Trade in Cotton Textiles (STA) in1961,

    The Long Term Arrangement Regarding

    International Trade in Cotton Textiles (LTA)from 1962 to 1973.

    Multifibre Arrangement (MFA) from 1974 to1994.

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    INTRODUCTION

    Included T &C sector within the scope of

    Uruguay Round in 1986.

    Seven years of complex negotiations.

    Sector fully integrated into WTO Rules

    on 31stDecember 2004.

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    SIX KEY ELEMENTS OF THE AGREEMENT

    ON TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

    Product Coverage.

    Programme for Integration.

    Progressive Liberalisation of theRestraints through Improved GrowthRates.

    Treatment of Quantitative Restrictions

    (other than MFA Restraints).

    Transitional Safeguard Mechanism.

    Textiles Monitoring Body.

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    THE PRODUCT COVERAGE OF

    ATCTHE ANNEX- It encompasses Section XI (Chapters

    50-63) of the Harmonized Commodity

    Description and Coding System (HS)

    Nomenclature.

    Some specific products from HS

    Chapters 30-49 and 64-96 were

    included.

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    BASIS FOR PRODUCT COVERAGE

    Products, which were previously subjectto MFA or MFA-type restraints.

    HS lines covering raw materials werenot included.

    In the case of raw natural materials (silk,

    cotton, wool, vegetable fibres), the ATCcoverage began with the firstmanufacturing process.

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    THE INTEGRATION OF TEXTILE AND

    CLOTHING PRODUCTS INTO GATT RULES Article 2 of the ATC.

    Quantitative Restrictions in Force at the

    Outset. The Integration Programmes

    Four Stages.

    Selection of Products for Integration Notification of the Products to be Integrated

    Termination

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    ARTICLE 2 OF THE ATC

    All former MFA or MFA-type restraints

    must be notified to TMB.

    The procedure for progressive

    integration of the products covered by

    the Agreement into GATT 1994 Rules

    and Disciplines.

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    QUANTITATIVE RESTRICTIONS IN

    FORCE AT THE OUTSET All existing restrictions on the day before

    the entry into force of the WTO

    agreement were to be notified in detail tothe TMB within 60 days.

    No new restrictions could be introduced

    except under the provisions of the ATC orrelevant GATT 1994 provisions.

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    THE INTEGRATION PROGRAMMES

    Four stage programme for the

    progressive integration was the second

    central element of the Agreement.

    Under Article 2.6 to 2.8, members carried

    out a program whereby the rules and

    disciplines of GATT 1994 were appliedprogressively to the T & C products.

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    WHAT DOES INTEGRATION MEAN ?

    Imports of the product integrated wereno longer subject to the ATC, including

    the possibility of bilateral restraints. After integration, if a safeguard measure

    was considered necessary, the GATTsnon-discriminatory global rules (ArticleXIX) would apply.

    There was no possibility to bring it backinto the coverage of ATC.

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    FOUR STAGES

    On 1st January 1995, Members were required tointegrate products from the list in the Annex whichrepresented not less than 16% of the total volumeof their imports of all those products in 1990.

    At stage 2, on 1st January 1998, not less than afurther 17% was integrated;

    At stage 3, on 1st January 2002, not less than afurther 18% was integrated;

    Finally at the end of the transition period, on 31stDecember 2004, all remaining products (whichcould amount to 49% as a maximum) wasautomatically stand integrated and the ATC was

    terminated.

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    SELECTION OF PRODUCTS FOR

    INTEGRATION Each importing member decided itself to

    reach the required percentage thresholds.

    The only requirement was that the list of

    products submitted at each stage must

    include products from each of the four

    groupings: tops and yarns, fabrics, made-up textile products and clothing (Articles

    2.6 and 2.8).

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    TERMINATION

    The Agreement was terminated after the

    10 year transition, on 31st December

    2004.

    Article 9 of the Agreement provided

    There shall be no extension of this

    Agreement.

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    IMPLEMENTATION OF THE

    INTEGRATION PROCESS

    Review by the Council for Trade in

    Goods The Report by TMB.

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    REVIEW BY THE COUNCIL FOR TRADE IN

    GOODS

    CTG was responsible for overseeing theimplementation of the ATC and for this

    purpose was required by Article 8.11 toconduct a major review before the end ofeach stage of the integration process.

    The TMB was required by the same Article

    to provide the Council with acomprehensive report on theimplementation of this agreement during thestage under review..

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    REVIEW BY THE COUNCIL FOR TRADE IN

    GOODS.

    The CTGs first major review of the firststage was held in OctoberNovember 1997.For this TMB submitted a comprehensivereport in July 1997.

    The major review of implementation ofATC in the second stage of the integrationprocess (1998-2002) was held by CTG in

    September- October 2001. The third and final major review by CTG of

    the third stage integration (2002-2004) was

    held in December 2004.

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    IMPROVEMENTS IN RESTRAINT

    GROWTH RATES Liberalization of Existing Restrictions

    Notification of Restraints in Place

    Increased Growth Rate

    Growth Rate Increases Automatically

    Termination of Restraints

    Early Elimination of Restraints

    Treatment of Small Suppliers.

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    LIBERALIZING EXISTING

    RESTRICTIONS The Agreement also provided a programme for

    liberalizing existing restraints through

    progressive, automatic increase in the rate ofannual growth (Article 2.13/2.14).

    No new restrictions in terms of products or

    members could be introduced and restrictions

    not notified within 60 days of the date of theentry into force of the WTO Agreement shall be

    terminated forthwith (Article 2.1 and 2.4).

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    NOTIFICATION OF RESTRAINTS IN PLACE

    INCREASED GROWTH RATES

    The notification by importing countries

    to TMB at the beginning of the ATC

    represented the starting point automaticliberalization process.

    The annual growth rates were increased

    by a factor of 16% for the first stage ofthe Agreement.

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    NOTIFICATION OF RESTRAINTS IN PLACE

    INCREASED GROWTH RATES

    The first stage growth rates were further

    increased by a factor of 25% for the

    second stage (i.e. on 1stJanuary 1998). The second stage growth rates were

    increased by a factor of 27% for the third

    stage (i.e. on 1st January 2002).(Article2.13 and 2.14).

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    NOTIFICATION OF RESTRAINTS IN PLACE

    INCREASED GROWTH RATES

    To illustrate this process, a 6% growth

    rate under the MFA in 1994 became

    6.96% on 1st January 1995 (i.e.6% x1.16%) and was applied for each year

    1995/96/97; then it was increased to

    8.70% (i.e. 6.96% x 1.25%) for each year1998/99/2000/01; and then to 11.05% (i.e.

    8.70% x 1.27%) for years 2002/3/4.

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    GROWTH RATE INCREASES APPLIED

    AUTOMATICALLY

    Growth-on-growth and the increase to the

    restraints levels which they entail were

    automatic. The increases in the growth rates,

    however, were minimums and members

    could apply higher rates.

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    TERMINATION OF RESTRAINTS

    When a product which was subject to a

    restraint under ATC was integrated into

    GATT (Part V), the restraint on thatproduct cannot be continued and must be

    terminated.

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    EARLY ELIMINATION OF

    RESTRAINTS

    Importing members had the possibility of

    dropping restraints during the transition,

    beyond that required as a result of theintegration process (Article 2.15).

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    TREATMENT OF SMALL SUPPLIERS

    For a small suppliers, that was the

    members whose restraints represented

    1.2% or less of the total restraintsapplied by an importing member at the

    end of 1991, the growth rate factor

    applied on existing restraints wasrequired to be advanced by one stage

    (Article 2.18).

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    THE APPLICATION OF GROWTH RATE

    FACTORS.

    Some developing members were of the

    view that the ATC had anticipated two

    paths for the progressive liberalization. One was the integration of products and

    the other was application of growth rate

    factors. The two paths were not substitutes.

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    THE APPLICATION OF GROWTH RATE

    FACTORS

    The developing members considered that the

    increase in the restraint levels by the

    application of stage 1 growth rate factor of

    16% to the existing growth rates as carriedover from the former MFA was misleading.

    Without meaningful integration and with

    the increase in the restraints being minimal,these processes could not be counted upon to

    produce a smooth and effective integration.

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    THE APPLICATION OF GROWTH RATE

    FACTORS

    The developed country members, however,

    considered that the provisions of enhanced

    growth rates would operate to give substantialincrease in the volume of the restraints

    concerned.

    The application of growth rate factors was

    cumulative and exponential, providing avaluable part of the integration process.

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    THE APPLICATION OF GROWTH

    RATE FACTORS

    The developed members were also of the view that

    the accelerated growth rates would no longer

    operate as a limitation well before the ten year

    transition period was completed.

    The effect of growth on the restraints, particularly

    in view of the slower growth rate in their domestic

    markets.

    For many or all of the restraints that werecurrently being filled, the restraint growth would

    cause them to no longer be true restraints.

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    REMOVAL OF QUANTITATIVE RESTRICTIONS

    OTHER THAN MFA RESTRAINTSARTICLE 3

    Notification Requirement

    Restrictions May Be Maintained or Must

    Be Phase Out

    Reverse Notification

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    NOTIFICATION REQUIREMENT

    All restrictions maintained by members on

    Textile and Clothing products whether they

    were consistent with GATT 1994 or not were tobe notified under Article 3.

    This did not apply to restrictions formerly

    maintained under the MFA, which were

    covered by the provisions of Article 2.

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    RESTRICTIONS MAY BE

    MAINTAINED OR MUST BE PHASED

    OUT Those restrictions notified, which were justified

    under a provision of GATT 1994 could bemaintained.

    All restrictions which could not be justifiedunder a GATT 1994 provision had to be eitherbrought into conformity with GATT 1994 withinone year following the entry into force of the

    ATC if this was possible, or if not, it had to bephased out progressively within the ten yeartransition period according to a program to bepresented to the TMB not later than 6 months

    after the entry into force of the ATC.

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    REVERSE NOTIFICATION

    Specific provision was also made for

    reverse notification to the TMB by any

    member which considered that anothermember had not made a notification

    required by Article 3.

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    THE TRANSITIONAL SAFEGUARD

    MECHANISM General

    Two-step Approach for Application of

    the Safeguard

    Consultation and Application of

    Measures

    Unilateral Action

    TMB Review

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    GENERAL

    A key aspect of ATC was the provision inArticle 6 for a special transitional Safeguard

    Mechanism, separate and distinct from the

    normal GATT safeguard in Article XIX. This was intended to protect members

    against damaging surges in imports during

    the ATC period. This safeguard permitted measures against

    imports of specific products from a

    particular source or sources.

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    GENERAL

    Article 6 applied to goods which caused or

    threaten to cause serious damage to the industry

    in another member simply because of theincreased levels of exports of these products.

    If, for instance, damage was being caused by a

    product which benefited from export subsidies

    or was dumped, then the GATT/WTO subsidyand anti-dumping rules would apply.

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    TWO-STEP APPROACH FOR APPLICATION

    OF THE SAFEGUARD

    Should be applied as sparingly as possible (Article

    6.1). It was based on a two-tier approach.

    A particular product was being imported in suchincreased quantities from all sources so as to

    cause serious damage or actual threat thereof, to

    its domestic industry.

    The member must also demonstrate that theserious damage or threat to the industry was the

    result of the increase in total imports.

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    TWO-STEP APPROACH FOR APPLICATION

    OF THE SAFEGUARD

    In the second step (Article 6.4) the

    member must proceed to determine to

    which exporting member or membersthis damage was attributable.

    There must be a sharp and substantial

    increase in imports, actual or imminent,from such a member or members

    individually.

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    CONSULTATION AND APPLICATION OF

    MEASURES

    The importing member must then consult withthe specific member(s) to which serious damageor threat was attributed.

    If the consultations lead to an agreed solution,i.e. to a mutual understanding that the situationcalled for a restraint, the restraint level may notbe lower than the actual level of imports fromthat exporting member during a recent 12-month period (Article 6.8), and the action takenmay remain in place for up to three years(Article 6.12).

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    UNILATERAL ACTION

    If a mutual solution was not found throughthe consultation process within 60 days

    unilateral action may be taken by the

    importing member, but at the same time thematter must be referred to the TMB (Part

    XI) for prompt review (Article 6.10).

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    UNILATERAL ACTION

    In very specific cases, described in theAgreement as highly unusual and criticalcircumstances where delay would cause

    damage which would be difficult to repair(Article 6.11), it was possible to impose arestraint provisionally without priorconsultation, on certain conditions, e.g. the

    request for consultations and notification to theTMB must be made within five working days ofsuch an action.

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    TMB REVIEW

    Agreed restraints were subject to TMBreview to determine whether they werejustified within the provisions of thisArticle (Article 6.9).

    Where agreement was not reached (Article6.10) or where a restraint was imposedprovisionally (Article 6.11) the TMB was

    required to promptly conduct anexamination and make appropriaterecommendations.

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    MONITORING, SURVEILLANCE AND

    REVIEWARTICLE 8 -

    Textiles Monitoring Body

    Principal Functions of the TMB

    Composition of the TMB

    Alternates

    The WTO Council for Trade in Goods

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    TEXTILES MONITORING

    BODY The ATC established Textiles Monitoring Body

    (TMB) as a standing body which consisted of aChairman and ten members.

    The ATC required that the membership of theTMB shall be balanced and broadlyrepresentative of the WTO members, and shallprovide for rotation at appropriate intervals.

    TMB members appointed by WTO members,were required to discharge their function on anad personam basis.

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    TEXTILES MONITORING BODY

    The TMB took all of its decisions by consensus;

    however, consensus within the body did not

    require assent or concurrence of TMB

    members appointed by WTO members

    involved in an unresolved issue under review.

    These characteristics made the TMB a unique

    institution within the WTO framework. TheTMB had also developed its own working

    procedures.

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    PRINCIPAL FUNCTIONS OF THE TMB

    The principal function of the TMB was tosupervise the implementation of the ATC andin so doing to examine all measures taken

    under its provisions and their conformity, andto take various actions specifically required ofit by the ATC. These included the review of:

    Notifications submitted by members of

    restraints in place at the beginning of thetransition period and members observationsthereon;

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    PRINCIPAL FUNCTIONS OF THE TMB

    Members programmes for the integration ofproducts into GATT 1994;

    Members notifications with respect to non-MFArestrictions and their programmes for phasing outrestrictions not justified under a provision ofGATT 1994;

    Bilaterally-agreed restraint measures under Article6 to ensure they were in accordance with theprovisions of the Agreements;

    Unilaterally introduced restraints where anagreement was not reached through bilateralconsultation and to make recommendations asappropriate;

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    PRINCIPAL FUNCTIONS OF THE TMB

    The implementation of the Agreement at leastfive months before the end of each stage of theintegration process and to provide a

    comprehensive report on this to the Council forTrade in Goods.

    The TMBs recommendations and findings werecommunicated to the Members directly

    concerned and were also communicated to theCouncil for Trade in Goods for its information.

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    COMPOSITION OF TMBPeriod: 1stJanuary 02 to 31stDecember 04

    Ten constituencies as follows:

    The ASEAN Member countries;

    Canada and Norway;

    China and Pakistan (this constituency will appointMacao, China as a second alternate; it will notrotate with the member or with the first alternate)

    The European Communities;

    India and Egypt/Morocco/Tunisia (India toalternate with one of the three);

    Japan;

    Korea and Hong Kong, China;

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    COMPOSITION OF TMB

    Latin American and Carribean Member Countries(this constituency will appoint two alternates)

    Turkey, Switzerland and Bulgaria/ Croatia/ Czech

    Republic/ Hungary/ Lithuania/ Poland/ Romania/

    Slovak Republic/ Slovenia (this constituency willappoint two alternates);

    The United States

    The ten persons serving on the TMB were appointedby the WTO members designated from the above

    constituencies. TMB members may appoint their

    respective alternates.

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    COMPOSITION OF TMB

    There would be second alternate from a least

    developed textile exporting member in

    constituency which would not rotate with the

    member or with the first alternate.

    Two non-participating observers would be

    appointed by members not already represented

    in the TMB, one each being designated fromAfrica and Asia.

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    NOTIFICATION OBLIGATIONS

    Notification Obligations

    Notifying the starting point and the

    integration stages

    Elimination of Non-MFA QRs

    Safeguard Notifications

    Other Notifications

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    NOTIFICATION OBLIGATIONS

    ATC required the notification of the actions

    which must be taken at each stage in the

    integration process, to document them both for

    review purposes by the TMB and to inform all

    WTO members, for information and

    transparency.

    In total, the ATC contained 37 references tonotifications by WTO members, most of which

    were to the TMB.

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    NOTIFYING THE STARTING POINT AND

    THE INTEGRATION STAGES

    A number of notifications were required in1995 to set the starting points for thetransition.

    Further, notifications of the second andthird integration stages were required ofmembers by the end of 1996 and 1999.

    Notification was also required of any actions

    taken in relation to this process, such asearly integration of products or theelimination of restraints.

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    ELIMINATION OF NON-MFA QRs

    A second important goal of the ATC was theelimination of all quantitative restrictions (QRs) ontextiles and clothing outside the MFA which werenot consistent with GATT rules.

    This required notification in 1995 of the initialsituation in each member, that was, the listing of allQRs maintained by WTO members, whetherGATT-consistent or not, followed by notification of

    programmes created to deal with any of these QRswhich were not GATT-consistent.

    These provisions were contained in Article 3.

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    SAFEGUARD NOTIFICATIONS

    The third main area was the special safeguardmechanism in Article 6 which had up to eightnotification requirements when recourse was

    had to this Article. The notification requirements of the various

    steps in the safeguard process ensured that thecarefully negotiated criteria for taking such

    action would be met and full transparencyprovided.

    The TMB was, of course, called upon to reviewevery aspect of safeguard actions.

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    OTHER NOTIFICATIONS

    Other Articles also required notification ofvirtually every action taken and in many casesprovided for recourse to the TMB by affectedmembers if they felt their rights were beinginfringed by the actions of others.

    In the CTGsmajor reviews, references were alsomade to the importance of all members fullymeeting their notification obligations in a timelymanner.

    It was noted that notifications were important notonly for transparency but also had elements oflegal rights and obligations.

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    THANK YOU