9. great food magazine jan/feb 2012

greatfoodI S S U E # 1 0 £ 3 . 2 0HANDMADE IN THE

HEART OF ENGLAND

£3

.20

ISS

UE

#10

The best gastro pubs, delis and farm shops

HANDY LOCAL FOOD MAPS

RESTAURANT REVIEWSDiscover hidden gems and rural retreats

A!o i"i#...‘I DO! NOW LET’S EAT!’The region’s tastiest wedding venues

SAVE MONEY WITH GREAT FOOD CLUB

Local hare, foraged fare and winter vegetables

World’s only PYO chilli farm & how to grow your own

HOT!$eld to %rkwww.greatfoodmag.co.uk Celebrating local food & drink

WARMING NEW YEAR RECIPESDishes from the region’s best chefs and home cooks

HERE’S JOHNNY!

Meet Britain’s

best butcher

PLUS..BBC Good Food Show report

Pub walk in Warwickshire Nottingham’s Curry Lounge

Pulling leeks with Riverford

P18

Steamed mutton and onion suet pudding

P34

Slow-roast partridge tagine with dukkah

P54

Dameon Clarke’s Seaside Favourites

People knock January and February but they’re two of the best months for food and drink. It’s grey and cold outside but you’re warm inside – the perfect time to lose yourself in a recipe and fill your house with delicious aromas. A good place to start is the mutton suet pudding on page 18 by Northamptonshire chef Adam Gray. It’s a traditional dish bursting with

seasonal flavour and I can think of no better way of whiling away a chilly Saturday than opening a bottle of red, following Adam’s instructions and enjoying some local mutton. If you’re longing for sun, Dameon Clarke’s amazing Seaside Favourites pud (p54) might be more fitting.

Mid-winter is also a good time for trying out local restaurants and pubs, and for sampling new local produce. There are great offers to be had at this time of year and it’s important to support our independent local businesses as they’re what makes the region’s food and drink scene so fantastic. If you’re a subscriber to this magazine and therefore a member of Great Food Club, find out what offers you can take advantage of with your membership card at greatfoodclub.co.uk. Enjoy them, and Happy New Year!

NIBBLES4 The Big Picture: Redhill Farm 6 News8 Fresh out the oven12 Events14 Riverford

STARTER18 Adam Gray recipe20 Foraging in the New Forest23 Subscription offer

MAIN COURSE24 Hare three ways26 The Country Victualler28 BBC Winter Good Food Show30 Get on the Shelf34 Recipes from Wyldelight Kitchen38 Edible Ornamentals

BACK FOR SECONDS40 Chilli recipe41 How to grow chillies42 Curry Commando44 Mustard musings

PUDDING46 Helen Tarver48 Lucy Cufflin49 Cod recipe51 The Insider52 Pub walk: Napton on the Hill54 Dameon Clarke recipe

WHERE TO EAT56 Local restaurant news57 The Peacock, Rowsley58 Martin’s Arms and the Dog & Hedgehog 60 Great Food Club information62 Restaurant map64 Profile: Barnsdale Lodge66 Delis & more map68 Profile: Maiyango Kitchen Deli69 Profile: Cherizena70 Farm shop & butchers map72 Profile: Johnny Pusztai at JT Beedham73 Profile: Crossroads Farm Shop

TO FINISH...74 Veg patch tips76 Local wedding venues80 Your Dream Kitchen82 The Practical Pantry

Editorwww.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Welco!

GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT MARCH 3, 2012

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Hare by Graham Wright.

Great Food has been shortlisted for a Media Pioneer Award by the Specialist Media Show – www.thespecialistmediashow.com

Twitter: @greatfoodmagEDITOR & PUBLISHER: M Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins & Becky Kane –01780 766199 (ext 213 and 235)SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341PUBLISHED BY: Rocco MediaPRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE: Tim Burke, Matt Gregory, Andrew Brackenbury, Adam Gray,

Hazel Paterson, Jack Thorpe, George Dryden, Shelly Preston, Craig McKnight, Rosemary Jameson, Dameon Clarke, Graham & Jill Wright, Jane & Enzo Maffioli, Phil Griffin, Helen Benton, Lucy Cufflin, Helen Tarver, Samantha Scott, Laura Harvey and... Rocco the Jack Russell.WEBSITES: @paulbunkhamFull Ts & Cs are on our website STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock

Contents

2 Great Food Magazine

a taste of this issue...

60

HARE THREE WAYS

14

20

PULLING LEEKS WITHRIVERFORD

GREATFOODCLUB

WHERE TO EAT

42

24

69 MELTON MOWBRAY COFFEE!

41

A FORAGEIN THE

NATIONAL FOREST

64

GROW YOUR OWN

CHILLI PEPPERS

CURRY TIPS

Great Food Magazine 3

THE BIG PICTURE


Among th! por"#Redhill Farm raises what could well be the UK’s best pork

I n the sandy fields at Redhill Farm near Gainsborough, Lincolnshire, Jane Tomlinson is surrounded by Duroc crossed

with Landrace piglets rooting, wallowing and growing slowly at their own pace. Here Jane and husband Terry – a pioneer of high welfare, outdoor pig farming – breed, rear and produce their nationally acclaimed Redhill Farm free range pork.

The past 12 months have been especially significant for these Lincolnshire producers, winning the Countryside Alliance Local Food Award for the East of England and being featured on BBC1’s Countryfile in October.

BBC Good Food selected Redhill Farm as one of the UK’s top three artisan sausage producers, and

PHOTO: CLIVE DOYLE

visitors to Lincoln Sausage Festival voted Redhill Farm bangers Lincolnshire’s Favourite Sausage.

The company was created after Jane became incensed by the

cheap, low grade pork being imported into the UK and sold

Redhill Farm


as British. She started selling her pork 12 years ago from the pigs bred and reared by Terry. Starting from scratch with £1000 and with three young children, she spent the next few years working often into the night to build the business. At the same time Jane, who was raised in the Lincolnshire Wolds, set up and ran six of the first farmers’ markets in Lincolnshire.

“Although we have won national awards we still sell most of what we produce in person at local farmers’ markets,” says Jane. “That means we can ensure our pork is the best it can be. We now have an enviable reputation and are known at all our markets as ‘The Stall with the Queue’.

“In everything we do we want to stand out from the crowd,” adds Jane. “We have resisted developing a big farm shop and selling other things in favour of specialising in quality of product and service. Our small farm shop is open three days a week so we can concentrate on producing everything by hand.” Customers can also buy online via the website www.redhillfarm.com.

Redhill Farm pork is also on the menu at select hotels and restaurants across the UK, including the Goring Hotel in London (the Middletons’ base for the Royal Wedding) where loin of Redhill Farm free range pork features on the lunch menu every Monday.

And fantastic black pud too...Redhill Farm has won a Gold Great Taste Award for every pork product it sells. Its latest creation is a version of black pudding that contains no added fat. This makes it light, with a smooth, open texture that is said to melt in the mouth. Mark Cheseldine, head chef at The Reform Restaurant, Westgate, Lincoln, says: “It has such a good flavour and a nice texture; it is easy to cook with and extremely versatile.”

CONTACT Redhill Farm, Gainsborough, Lincs DN21 3DT, 01427 628270, redhillfarm.com

A multi-million pound food and drink business park located on the outskirts of Leicester could be created in less than

five years. The vision, masterminded by Leicestershire brewer and property owner Everards, represents a welcome blast of warmth amid icy economic conditions, and would create up to 300 jobs.

At the heart of the plan is a state-of-the-art craft brewery and new offices for Everards, which owns all the land in question at Soar Valley Park, Enderby. There would also be a multi-purpose visitor centre and space for large food festivals. The park would be spread over around 13 acres. Other like-minded food and drink producers would share the site.

“This is our vision of the future,” said Stephen Gould, managing director of Everards. “We want to create a new craft brewery and work with other food and drink businesses to build a thriving hub that enhances the region’s excellent food and drink credentials.”

Everards plots multi-million pound food & drink park


WAITROSE LISTINGSGreat Food magazine is now on sale in more Waitrose stores across the Midlands. New stockists include Waitrose Lichfield, Northampton, Towcester, Birmingham Harborne, Birmingham Hall Green, Kenilworth, Daventry, Rushden and Lincoln. New independent stockists include Arrow Farm Shop near Worksop and The Larder Deli, Castle Ashby.greatfoodmag.co.uk

TUXFORD AWARDStilton made by Melton Mowbray-based creamery Tuxford & Tebbutt has been named one of the world’s 50 best cheeses at the World Cheese Awards, held in Birmingham. Other British cheeses to make the top 50 include Cornish Blue, Swaledale Blue and Appleby Cheshire. World Champ 2011/12 is Ossau-Iraty AOP, produced by Fromagerie Agour of France. tuxfordandtebbutt.co.uk

GONALSTON GLORYAlso at the World Cheese Awards, Nottinghamshire’s Gonalston Farm Shop picked up the trophy for the Best Cheese and Deli Counter.gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

PHOTO COMPETITIONThe closing date for the Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year competition is January 31, 2012. The contest is open to all, with a prize of £5,000 for the winner. pinkladyfoodphotographer oftheyear.com

Cooking?EDITED BY: MATT WRIGHT

What’s

FOOD EVENTS

The first Great British Mustard Bash will take place this year at the old Leicestershire home of Colonel Colman, the man behind Colman’s Mustard. Scalford Hall near Melton Mowbray will host the event on March 11, 2012.

The Mustard Bash, Britain’s first mustard-focused event, will celebrate the condiment and foods that go with it. A mustard-making competition will be judged by River Cottage preserves

specialist Pam Corbin, and Colman’s Mustard Museum will put on an exhibition. There will also be food stands and demos. The Mustard Bash was conceived by Rosemary Jameson of Oakham’s Jam Jar Shop, and is sponsored by Great Food magazine.

Jeremiah Colman lived at Scalford Hall – now a hotel – in the 1930s, when the house was often visited by King Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson.

Mustard Bash at Colonel Colman’s ex-home

Sm!

Everards’ vision is in keeping – albeit on a larger scale – with its other recent schemes, Project William and Project Artisan, in which the family-owned brewery has worked closely with small craft breweries and artisan food producers to forge symbiotic business relationships. “At the park I foresee more established food and drink companies joining us,” said Stephen. “Projects William and Artisan have proven that our business will be successful if we can attract and work alongside talented people, even if they are not direct employees of Everards.”

FOOD ‘CLUSTER’ VISION FOR REGION

Artist’s impression of the new brewery.

For restaurant news, turn

to p56

Local food news

Tim Brown (right) from The Melton Cheeseboard appeared on BBC’s The One Show with broadcaster Jay Rayner (left) in November. Tim and Jay chatted about the tradition of ‘porting’ Stilton, where port is poured onto the cheese and left to soak in.

Reco!endsR"o“Excellent places that let me in”

GRIFFIN’S HEAD, MEARS ASHBY“A confession: I’ve had to take advice from a trainer

called ‘The Dogfather’ (dogfathertraining.co.uk). Doing so has wounded me deeply, but since barking violently at a wheelchair-bound old lady, I have come to accept I need assistance. Happily, The Dogfather from Northampton also pointed me in the direction of a fine pub – the Griffin’s Head. It’s an untouched sort of place serving good, simple British food and real ales – much needed after training sessions.”

Griffin’s Head, 28 Wilby Road, Mears Ashby, Northants NN6 0DX, 01604 812945

PIMENTO, LINCOLN The centre of Lincoln is not short of quaint tearooms. Tucked away at the rear of a ladies’ fashion shop, Pimento on the city’s Steep Hill – the street recently named Britain’s Best Place by the Academy of Urbanism – stands out for the sheer quality of tea. Supplied by legendary Imperial Teas, which lies opposite, you can usually find up to 22 very special brews – watch out for some outstanding single estate Assams. Simple but tasty vegetarian food is available. TB

Pimento Tearooms, 26/27 Steep Hill, Lincoln LN2 1LU, 01522 544880


The Fox Inn at Thorpe Satchville, Leicestershire, won two trophies at November’s East Midlands Food Awards,

run by East Midlands Newspapers. The Fox, home of French restaurant La Table d’Yves, received most votes in the Best European and Best Gastro Pub categories. The pub is run by French-born couple Yves and Elisabeth Ogrodzki, who moved to England from Provence six years ago. “We started out with the idea of a French family taking on an English inn, which might seem strange, but with passion and hard work we have made it a success and helped put Thorpe Satchville on the map.”

Meanwhile, at November’s Derby Food and Drink Awards, Darleys at Darley Abbey Mill, Derby, took Restaurant of the Year; The Bay Tree at Melbourne was named Best Out of Town venue; city chain Le Bistrot Pierre was Best For Lunch; and Mansion, also of Derby, won the Best Newcomer and Best Customer Service awards.

It’s been a busy time for prize ceremonies, and The British Curry Awards took place in central London on November 28. Khalid Sami Khan from Birmingham’s Lasan restaurant picked up the first Culinary Chef of the Year prize, while the award for Best Curry Restaurant (Midlands) went to Rilys of Redditch.

One Show hits Melton

SACREBLEU! FRENCH FOX BEATS BRITS AT AWARDS Success for Leicestershire’s Fox, while Darleys does it in Derby

FOOD AWARDS

{ Rock legend Noddy Holder visited Nottingham’s Adams’ Restaurant recently to judge the Midlands’

best bangers as part of British Sausage Week. Croot’s Farm Shop of Derbyshire’s ‘Henry Cooper’ banger caused a stir but winner was a Lincolnshire

sausage by Lakings of Louth.

Noddy tests bangers }Noddy with Steve Croot from Croot’s Farm Shop

The Fox at Thorpe Satchville.

View from Darleys restaurant.

Tra#cen$nt %& r'ms

Local bakers on rise

VEGAN CHOC MAKERAn 18-year-old Prince’s Trust Enterprise Programme graduate from Highfields in Leicester has launched a chocolate business, Chocolate Loves Chocolate. Among other products, Khadija Osman makes a range of dairy-free, vegan chocolate bars.chocolateloveschocolate.co.uk

NEW FISHMONGERBrady’s Fish & Seafood Market has opened on Allandale Road, Leicester. Run by married couple Nigel and Zoe Brady, the shop has a seafood deli counter, a wet fish counter, and sells a selection of champagnes. It specialises in sustainable produce caught off the south coast of England. Before opening the shop, Nigel worked as a research scientist.bradysseafoodmarket.com

LOCAL FOOD WEBSITEHeart of England Fine Foods, the food group for the West Midlands and Central region that supports and promotes local producers, has launched a Local Food Store and an online shop. The Local Food Store (plus kitchen café) is at the

Shropshire Food Enterprise Centre in Shrewsbury. For more info on the online shop, visit the link below.heff.co.uk

GREAT FOOD CLUBMichelin-starred gastro-pub The Olive Branch and classic country inn The Old Barn at Glooston, plus local producer Tori & Ben’s Farm, are among more than 30 handpicked businesses offering exclusive deals to members of Great Food Club. At the time of going to press, The Old Barn was offering 20% off food and drink. Members get a personalised membership card and a subscription to Great Food magazine.greatfoodclub.co.uk

I! "i#The B14 Collective

at King’s Heath deli Capeling & Co.

De Montford University (Leicester) business

student and fourth-generation master ice cream maker Ben Vear, 22, has launched his first book, entitled Make Your Own Organic Ice Cream.

Ben’s great grandfather Albert Winstone created Winstone’s Cotswold Ice Cream in 1925 using a family recipe. The ice cream factory and parlour near Stroud, Gloucestershire still flourishes today. “A few years ago I discovered my great grandfather’s recipes,”

said Ben. “And they led me to write this book.”

Make Your Own Organic Ice Cream, which includes a recipe for lemon grass, ginger and sloe vodka ice cream, retails for £14.99. Visit benvear.com for more information.

Baked of Derby – a bakery with café attached – opens in the city’s Cultural Quarter in March

2012. Victoria and Tony Jacobs set up a home bakery in September 2010 but quickly outgrew that. Baked of Derby is the result.

In Leicestershire, Rosie Clarke from Virtuous Bread – an evangelical network of home bakers – is working closely with Leicestershire brewery Everards (as part of its Project Artisan scheme, reported in Issue 7) to hold pop-up baking workshops in Leicester pubs such as The Cradock Arms in Knighton and The Baker’s Arms, Blaby.

Meanwhile, in Birmingham, Tom Baker – an artisan baker and cookery teacher who co-runs a social enterprise called Loaf – is opening a bakery with cookery school attached. This Stirchley operation is another backed by Leicestershire brewery Everards, which has purchased the property and is refitting it. Tom has several financial supporters who have agreed to be partly paid back in artisan bread.

Artisan producers combine to boost business

the oven$es% &t

Keeping an eye on the region’s food and drink launches

BRUM’S B14 COLLECTIVE

A rtisan food producers in south Birmingham have joined forces to form a collective. Called B14, the group

comprises Lucky 13 Bakehouse, Change Kitchen (vegan and vegetarian foods), Cuffufle Chutney, Wanton & Furious (chocolates) and King’s Heath charcuterie and cheese specialist, Capeling & Co. The quintet is working together to stock the shelves of Capeling, plus jointly creating hampers to sell at markets and seeking new

outlets with which to supply its complementary products. “By forming the B14 collective we can co-promote each others’ products,” said Neil Baldwyn, head baker at Lucky 13. “Also, Capeling benefits from a supply of locally-produced artisan foods and we get great shelf space. We all enjoy extra manpower at markets, too. There are loads of food businesses springing up in this city and joining forces seems to make sense.” ‘B14’ refers to the King’s Heath postcode.


PH

OTO

: JA

NE

BA

KER

/ G

REE

NSN

AP

PER

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY.

CO

M

Tom Baker.

Ben Vear’s new book

The Hammer & Pincers 5 East Road, Wymeswold,Loughborough LE12 6ST t: 01509 880735

w: www.hammerandpincers.co.uk

AT THE HAMMER & PINCERSRESTAURANT, WYMESWOLD, WE PRIDEOURSELVES IN SOURCING THE FINEST

LOCAL INGREDIENTS, AND MAKEEVERYTHING WE SERVE IN HOUSE.

Welcome the new-year in with our JANUARY COMFORT MENU –

£12.50 FOR TWO COURSES OR£15.00 FOR THREE COURSES

(lunch 12-2pm Tues-Fri, dinner 6-7pm Tues-Fri).

STARTERS: Spiced Parsnip Soup, Coriander Chantilly, Curry Oil& Home Baked Bread • Smoked Haddock Welsh Rarebit,

Watercress Salad, Tomato Vinaigrette • Blackberry Farm Lamb Shoulder Hotpot in Miniature.

AVAILABLE AS A STARTER OR MAIN COURSE: Fresh Egg Pasta,Spicy Chorizo, Smoked Paprika Roasted Chicken & Olive Ragu• Beetroot Risotto, Herb Crusted Goats Cheese, Ruby ChardDressed with Walnut Oil • Wild Brancaster Mussels, Cooked

Marinière (served with French Fries as a main).

MAIN COURSES: Tandoori Cauliflower, Bombay Potatoes,Courgette, Onion & Coriander Pakora • Beer Battered

Responsibly Sourced Fish & Hand Cut Chips, Crushed Peas,Tartar Sauce • Long Whatton Game Pie with Cracked Pepper

Crust, Butter Mash, Peas & Carrots.

DESSERTS: Brûlée Crusted Vanilla Rice Pudding, HomemadeRed Berry Confiture • Baked Stem Ginger Pudding, WhiskeyMac Toffee Sauce, Rhubarb Ripple Ice Cream • Cropwell

Bishop Stilton & Vintage Lincolnshire Poacher, Accompaniments• A Selection of Home Made Ice Creams & Sorbets.

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

Great Food Club MembersExclusive Thursdays O!er10% OFF Your award-winningwine merchant o!ers all Great Food Club Members an exclusive Thursday o!er.

During January and February 2012, all Club Members will receive 10% o! all wines, beers and spirits*every Thursday when you show your Club Card in store.

10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LTTel: 01858 464935www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

*Excludes credit card purchases. Not for use in conjunction with any other o!er. Terms & conditions apply.

The Melton Cheeseboard

www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

8 Windsor StreetMelton MowbrayLeicestershireLE13 1BUTel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening HoursMon 9.00 – 3.00Tues 8.30 – 5.00Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.00Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.00

d k

3.005.004.004.00

d kd k

0000

Stilton is our speciality, ours is sourced directly from Long Clawson Dairy, based just fi ve miles outside Melton Mowbray.

We would like to welcome you to our shop in the

heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the fi nest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the completeLong Clawson range including their award-winningAged Leicester, Lincolnshire Poacher, Cote Hill Blue, Sparkenhoe Leicester, Bosworth Field andBattlefi eld Blue.

For a taste of the

best cheese from the

Melton area, why not

come and visit us?

For a tasty gift why not visit...

p09_GF_JanFeb12.indd Sec1:9p09_GF_JanFeb12.indd Sec1:9 14/12/11 15:05:3414/12/11 15:05:34

featureNews

UK restaurants have been celebrating 100 years of Michelin recognition, aided by Leicester’s RKH

HOW LOCAL FIRM MADE MICHELIN STARS SHINE

Throughout 2011 the Michelin Guide celebrated its 100th birthday. Several Midlands restaurants appeared in the

100th guide, including Nottingham’s Sat Bains, Birmingham’s Purnells and Rutland’s Hambleton Hall. Less well known is the fact that another local firm was behind many of Michelin’s centenary celebrations.

Food-loving Leicester-based media specialist Rock Kitchen Harris (RKH) was chosen to handle several aspects of design and PR for Michelin’s centenary, and to help promote many of the 30 British restaurants that appeared in both the first 1911 guide and in the 2011 edition.

John Harris, a director at RKH, said: “This is a brilliant example of local Midlands talent helping some of the most skilled chefs and hoteliers from all over the country to get recognition.”

A BIG PARTYCelebrations for the 100th year of the Michelin Guide began with a VIP event in London, attended by 132 Michelin-starred chefs. Famous faces such as Heston Blumenthal, Michael Caines, Gary Rhodes, Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux – plus this region’s talented chefs from Nottingham, Rutland, Birmingham

and Derbyshire – gathered at Michelin House, Chelsea, to mark the famous Guide’s centenary. Rock Kitchen Harris had been busy in the background designing the menus, name badges and information packs.


FINE DESIGN ENHANCES MICHAEL CAINES’ BALLThe Abode Hotel in Exeter, Devon was listed in the 1911 UK Michelin Guide and in the 2011 edition. Celebrated head chef Michael Caines put on a banquet and ball, for which Rock Kitchen Harris designed posters and displays to give the event extra style.

MORE PARTIES AROUND THE UK

To celebrate appearing in the Michelin Guide for 100 years, the famous Macdonald Randolph Hotel in Oxford got into the spirit of things with set menus based on 1911 dishes priced at just £19.11. Staff in 1911 costume took to the streets offering free tasters. Leicester’s RKH liaised with the media and ensured TV, radio and press coverage.

John Harris said: “This was a fantastic project for RKH. It was an honour to work with such fantastic hotels and restaurants. The George at Stamford in Lincolnshire was the nearest hotel to RKH to appear in both the 1911 and 2011 guides, but in addition the Feathers in Ledbury, Villiers in Buckingham, George in Rye, Grand in Eastbourne, Spread

Eagle in Midhurst and Royal Hotel in Ventnor all deserve special mention. Celebrations stretched to Scotland, Ireland and Wales, as the Angel in Abergavenny, Lovat in Loch Ness and Dunraven Arms in Adare were all named as part of the elite 30.

“The only sad thing was the RKH team didn’t get to taste any of the food!”

A £19.11 menu at The Randolph, Oxford

HISTORIC HOTELS GO BACK IN TIMETwo Yorkshire hotels that featured in both the 1911 Michelin Guide and the 2011 edition are The Boar’s Head in Ripley and The Black Swan, Helmsley. The venues created special 1911 menus, held a vintage car rally and put on Edwardian garden parties. RKH got the television and press interested and helped design the events.

Party at The Villiers.

Tyre-maker Michelin published its first

guide in 1911.

Michelin starred chefs at the 100-year celebration in London.

{ } “It was an honour to give such talented hotels and restaurants ideas to help them promote the fact that they’ve received 100 years of Michelin recognition.”

John Harris, RKH

100-!" cele#atio$

ALSO IN COTESBACH AT

THE STABLE YARD

JASON THE ORGANIC BUTCHER

NATURALLY GOOD FOOD Specialist in

organic, gluten free

and whole foods

FOREST ELF vintage clothing boutique

JOE THE BLACKSMITH

C O T E S B A C H

CAFÉ EMPORIUM

Easy to find on the A426 Lutterworth to Rugby Road, between Junction 1 of the M6 and J20 of the M1. LE17 4HS

open : Tues - Sat 9.30-5.30. Sunday 11-4. CLOSED ON MONDAY T: 01455 550900 gardenbarn.co.uk

furnituremirrorsclockspotsplantswildlifewall artvintagerecycledsculpturescarvesjewelleryenamelwarebasketslanternsheartshooksfire guardsframes

great cakessuperb soupsquality teas &

coffee & one

amazing shop.

home & garden storeart & craft gallery

espresso bar & café

North eldFarm Shop& Restaurant

WHISSENDINE LANE, COLD OVERTON, NR. OAKHAM, LEICESTERSHIRE LE15 7QF (follow Brown Signs on A606)

www.northfi eldfarm.com01664 474271

email: marc@northfi eldfarm.com

Great Taste Awards winners in every year of entry

As featured on BBC2 GREAT BRITISH FOOD REVIVAL.

Restaurant - “A slice of foodie heaven”Open Thursday – Sunday for lunch 12am – 3pm

Thursday – Saturday 7pm – late for evening meals

Rare and Traditional British Beef, Pork, Lamb, Poultryand Game From our Award- winning butchery

Artisan Breads, Brownies and Pastriesfrom our Bakery

Fresh Local Vegetables, Cheesesand much more from our Shop

Fabulous Amphora Wine shop on site

Delicious Hedgerow Spirits (Sloe Gin)produced on site


Events & marketsGreat Food recommends... Excellent events to ease you into the year

OUT AND ABOUT


THE GREAT BRITISH MUSTARD BASH, SCALFORD HALL, MAR 11It’s the condiment of kings and should be celebrated! We hope that the inaugural Great British Mustard Bash plants

the seeds that grow into a hugely successful annual food and drink event for the region. Held at Scalford Hall near Melton Mowbray. £5 per car; 10am to 4pm; www.mustardbash.co.uk

LUCY CUFFLIN’S COOKERY BOOK CLUB, WATERSTONES, LEICESTER, JAN 10Starting on January 10 and then on the first Tuesday of each month, Lucy Cufflin from Lucy’s Food (see p48)

will review a cookery book at Waterstones, Market St, Leicester. She will also bring along local or new ingredients to try. Starts 12.30pm; free entry; lucysfood.co.uk; 0116 2700885

3WORLD MARMALADE AWARDS, DALEMAIN MANSION, FEB 25-26 This is one of the first big food

events in the UK calendar. Held at Dalemain in Cumbria, the focus is a giant marmalade competition. Be warned – it’s very competitive! Last year there were 1200 entries – marmaladeawards.com

5HAMBLETON BEEF NIGHT AT THE KING’S ARMS, WING, JAN 27 James Goss at The King’s Arms in Rutland is an avid user of local ingredients and on this evening teams up

with Hambletons of Oakham, which produces Longhorn beef, grazed on the Hambleton Peninsula, Rutland Water. Sure to be a very tasty evening. Begins at 7pm; £28 per head; thekingsarms-wing.co.uk, 01572 737634

2

Please check with organisers of all events before setting off

F!"#’ m!$ts Where’s your nearest?Leicestershire & Rutland WarwickshireASHBY DE LA ZOUCHWhen Third Sat of month, 9am-2pmBLABYWhen Fourth Sat of month, 9am-1pm (third Sat in Dec)BURBAGEWhen First Sat, 9am-1pmBROUGHTON ASTLEYWhen Second Sun, 10am-2pmCASTLE DONINGTONWhen Second Sat, 9am-12.30pmEARL SHILTONWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pmHINCKLEYWhen Third Thurs, 9am-2pmKIBWORTH BEAUCHAMPWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pmLEICESTERWhen First Thurs, 10am-4pmLOUGHBOROUGHWhen Second Weds, 9am-4pmLUTTERWORTHWhen Second Sat, 9am-1.30pm

MARKET BOSWORTHWhen Fourth Sun, 9am-2pmMARKET HARBOROUGHWhen First Thurs, 8am-3.30pmMELTON MOWBRAYWhen Every Tues and Fri, 9am-2pmOAKHAMWhen Third Sat, 8am-2pmSTAMFORD (LINCS)When Every other Fri, 8.30am-3pm (Jan 13, Jan 27 etc)

NottinghamshireBEESTON When Fourth Fri, 9am-2pmBINGHAMWhen Third Sat, from 9amMANSFIELD When Third Tues, 9am-4pmNEWARKWhen First Wed, from 9amNOTTINGHAM When Third Fri, 9am-4pmRETFORDWhen Third Sat, from 9am

SOUTHWELLWhen Third Thurs, 9am-3pm WEST BRIDGFORD When Second and fourth Sat, 8.30am-1.30pmWOLLATONWhen First Sat, 9am-1pmWORKSOPWhen Second Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm

DerbyshireALFRETONWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pmBELPERWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pmCHESTERFIELDWhen Second Thur and last Sun, from 9amDERBYWhen Third Thur, 9am-3pmHEANOR When Third Sat, 9am-3pmRIPLEYWhen First Sat, 9am-3pmSWADLINCOTEWhen Third Sat of month, from 9am

ATHERSTONEWhen Third Sat, 9am-2pmBEDWORTHWhen Last Weds, from 9am BIRMINGHAM HIGH ST HARBOURNEWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pmBIRMINGHAM NEW STREETWhen First and third Weds, 9am-4pmCOLESHILLWhen Fourth Fri, 10am-2pmCOVENTRYWhen Second Thurs, 9am-4.30pmLEAMINGTON SPAWhen Fourth Sat, 9am-2pmNUNEATONWhen Third Fri, 9am-2pmRUGBYWhen Last Thurs, 9am-2pmSOLIHULLWhen First Fri, 9am-5pm

STRATFORD-ON-AVONWhen First and third Sat, 9am-2pmSUTTON COLDFIELDWhen Second Fri, 9am-3pmWARWICKWhen Fifth Sat (irregular), 9am-2pm

NorthamptonshireBRACKLEYWhen Third Sat, 9am-1pmDAVENTRYWhen First Sat, 9am-1pmOUNDLEWhen Second Sat, 9am-2pmHIGHAM FERRERSWhen Last Sat, 8am-3pmNORTHAMPTONWhen Third Thurs, 9am-1.30pmTOWCESTERWhen Second Fri, 9am-2pmWELLINGBOROUGHWhen Last Thurs, 9am-2pm

NB We’ve used a number of sources to compile this list. Always check market is running before setting off

EDIBLE GARDEN SHOW, STONELEIGH PARK, MAR 16-18The indoor show devoted to growing your own food returns to Stoneleigh Park, Warwickshire. If you want

to start growing your own and learn more about keeping animals, then a few hours spent here will be invaluable. See the latest products, get advice, and visit the Cookery Theatre and Smallholders’ Marquee. 10am-5pm all days; £12 in advance; theediblegardenshow.co.uk, 0844 3388001

4

MARCH 11, 2012SCALFORD HALL

MELTON MOWBRAY

Mustard truly deserves its own festival and what better place for it than Scalford Hall near Melton Mowbray? Not only is it Jeremiah Colman’s old home, it is also in the middle of pork pie country – see you there! www.mustardbash.com

LOCAL PRODUCER


A lonely figure sits in the field, illuminated by December’s golden morning sunlight. He sips tea, blows into

cupped hands, bends, grasps green ribbons and pulls. Out comes the prize, followed by a tangle of roots, dripping earth. A blade flashes, the muddy tangle hits the earth and a trimmed leek lands on the pile. This is

unforgiving, back-breaking work but farm worker Dick Mace from Wisbech seems happy. “I’ve been grafting in fields like this for 30 years,” he grins.

One warming thought is that around 72 hours later, the leeks that Dick is handpicking – along with other veg grown at Sacrewell Farm near Peterborough – will be simmering in saucepans across the Midlands.

Since 2008, 500-acre Sacrewell Farm has been run by Riverford Organic – note the word organic – a farming and food delivery business that was born in Devon. It was set up in 1987 by Guy Watson who delivered food grown on three acres to 30 friends. It’s grown a bit since then and now delivers 40,000 boxes a week across the UK. This is big business.

!es" #o$ th% e&t"Riverford at Sacrewell Farm near Peterborough grows organic veg, handpicks it and delivers to homes across the MidlandsARTICLE: MATT WRIGHT PHOTOS: ANDREW BRACKENBURY (ABRACKENBURY.COM)

Riverford


‘Around 72 hours later, th! leeks wil" b!

simmering i# kitchens across th! Midlands’

o$ th! e%t&

LOCAL PRODUCER

Charlotte Falkingham with Sarah Lyon and Janet ??????


Riverford’s meatboxRiverford is now able to deliver organic meat boxes as well as veg boxes. Its small meat box costs £53.95 and will feed two adults for at least a fortnight, while the Winter Warmer box – containing cuts perfect for slow cooking – is £29.95. All the meat is currently sourced from West Country farms. In the future, Sacrewell Farm may become home to livestock: “The land is available,” says Nigel Venni, “but it’s not possible economically at this stage.” For more information, visit www.riverford.co.uk

But Riverford has never lost sight of its roots – growing affordable veg for local people – and as it has expanded, it has charted a more challenging course to stay true to its principles. First, Riverford is organic – so no chemicals. As a result, it has to contend with lower yields and pests such as white fly. Second, to reduce food miles and keep the farming relatively small scale, the company decided to link up with sister farms across England – in Hampshire, Yorkshire, and here, at Sacrewell near Peterborough. So Riverford sprouts delivered to, say, Melton Mowbray, are grown a few miles away at Sacrewell.

Nigel Venni from Peterborough, farmer at Sacrewell, shows us around the land. “We grow Megaton, Belton, Darwin, Kenton and Galvani varieties,” he says, pointing to the leeks surrounding Dick. “There’s purple sprouting broccoli, there’s the wet garlic we planted at the end of October just poking through, and next door are cabbages – January King, Tundra Green and Wintessa Savoy. We grow lots of varieties of the same vegetable for a couple of reasons. First, the soil at Sacrewell varies dramatically, even within individual fields, so we try to match vegetable variety to soil type. Second, it means we haven’t got all our eggs in one basket – if Darwin doesn’t do too well, then Belton can come to the rescue.”

Everything is harvested by hand at Sacrewell. The 7000 or so veg boxes per week that are packed in the farm’s cold store and then distributed across the Midlands equate to between one and two tonnes of produce. This entire quantity is picked by four workers.

One of those is Dick Mace, whose silhouette moves slowly around the now-distant leek field, straight into a biting northerly. Seeing this wintry scene puts you in touch with the reality of organic farming, and the time and effort needed to put those delicious leeks in your pan. A small Riverford box containing eight varieties of veg feeds two to three people a week and costs £12.85.

CONTACT Riverford at Sacrewell Farm, Peterborough PE2 6HJ 01780 789700

Rob Prendergast from Yaxley is one of 12 Riverford office workers at Sacrewell. Around 30 local packers work at the farm’s cold store.

A winter cabbage catches the sun.

Riverford


Sacrewell farmer Nigel Venni grapples with organic Brussels.

‘Everything is harvested b! hand at Sacrewel" Far#’

Suet pastry* 600g self-raising flour

* 300g shredded beef suet

* 400ml water

* Salt

This lines six half-pint pudding basins.1 Sieve together flour and salt in a bowl.2 Add the suet. Do not break into the flour but leave as whole pieces. Carefully stir in.3 Stir in the water to form a fairly firm dough. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for 20 minutes. The pastry is now ready to roll to half-inch thickness to line the pre-buttered pudding basins.

Creamed grainmustard lamb sauce

* 400ml lamb stock (see right)

* 60ml double cream

* 25g grain mustard

* Salt

* Ground white pepper

1 Bring lamb stock (see right) to the boil and reduce to 250ml.2 Add double cream and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes.3 Add grain mustard and whisk together thoroughly.4 Season to taste. The sauce should be café au lait in colour.

As a youngster, Adam Gray used to wash pots in his local, The Red Lion at East Haddon, Northamptonshire. Adam now co-owns the pub. Until recently he was head chef at Rhodes 24 in London but left to focus on the Red Lion, which won a Michelin Bib Gourmand a few months ago. Adam’s mutton dish is not only delicious but also ideal for a satisfying winter session in the kitchen.

Adam Gray’s steamed mutton and onion suet pudding with crushed swede

Braised shoulder of mutton – serves 6* 1 shoulder mutton * 3 onions (mirepoix) * 6 large carrots (mirepoix)

* 1 head celery (mirepoix) * 1 bulb garlic (mirepoix) * 10 plum tomatoes, chopped

* 10 sage stalks * 5 litres chicken stock * 1 litre veal stock

* 1 bottle white wine * Rapeseed oil

1 Cut the shoulder of mutton in half and seal in a large hot frying pan in the rapeseed oil until lightly golden brown all over. Remove.2 Add mirepoix to hot frying pan and cook until golden brown.3 Add sage stalks and chopped tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes.4 Deglaze with wine. Reduce by three quarters.5 Remove all the ingredients from frying pan and place in a deep tray. Add the shoulder of mutton.

6 Cover with the chicken stock and veal stock.7 Place the tray on the stove and bring to boil.8 As it comes to the boil, remove from the stove and cover with foil, sealing the edges.9 Place in a pre-heated oven at 180ºC for five hours until tender.10 Leave to cool in liquor. When cool enough to handle, break down all the meat from the bone, making sure that the mutton is also clear of any gristle or fat and sinew.

Lamb stock * 4kg lamb bones * 6 carrots * 10 tomatoes * 1 head celery * 2 leeks * 4 onions

* 1 head garlic * 1 bottle white wine * 1 bunch rosemary

Mutton gravyStrained mutton cooking liquor (see mutton recipe above).

Mutton pudding filling1 Lightly caramelise sliced onions until golden. Cool.2 Add some chopped parsley and sage to onion mix.3 Once pudding basins are lined with pastry, insert with a layer of deboned, desinewed mutton meat (see top of page), then a layer of onions and repeat until 1cm from the top, leaving enough space to add the lid. Egg wash the top of each basin and seal.4 Wrap each pudding tightly witha top sheet of foil and greaseproof paper. Steam for 75-90 minutes.5 Serve mutton puddings with swede (see below), and with mutton gravy and mustard sauces in separate jugs.

Crushed swede * 2 medium swede

* 50g butter (diced)

* Salt

* Ground white pepper

1 Peel and cut the swede into rough two-inch pieces.2 Place swede in a saucepan, cover with cold water and add salt to taste.3 Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the swede is tender, but not soft.4 Drain the swede in a colander and leave to stand for 8-10 minutes.5 Pass swede through a potato masher while still warm. Add the diced butter and season with salt and pepper.6 Serve with a dice of butter sitting in the middle of the swede.


RECIPE

Celler Cal Pla Grapes: Garnacha, Carinena and

Cabernet SauvignonFlavour: This stunning red from

Priorat, a tiny wine-growing area south of Barcelona, delivers the

power and complexity that this dish needs: robust fruit

flavours of plum and cherry. Price: £14.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BLOW IT!

Chateau du Donjon Tradition Grapes: Grenache, Syrah

and CarignanFlavour: A rich, full wine from a small producer in the Minervois,

southern France. Intense aromas and flavours of prune

and stewed black fruit will work well with the robust

mutton. Price: £8.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BUDGET

Carlo Distefano Chairman

Marissa DistefanoMarketing Manager

Alessandro Distefano Manager

Marcello Distefano Managing Director

�“Our family has worked hard to ensure the true Italian traditions remain at San Carlo. We wouldn�’t have it any other way.�”

WINNER OF EIGHTEEN PRESTIGIOUS AWARDS

San Carlo is not a theme restaurant we are proud to be able to provide the true essence of authentic Italian food, with Italian directors, management and chefs.

San Carlo | Birmingham Bristol Leeds Leicester Liverpool Manchester Milan Rome Signor Sassi | London Kuwait Beirut Bangkok

38 �– 40 Granby St, Leicester LE1 1DE | 0116 251 9332 [email protected] | www.sancarlo.co.uk

Originale Cucina Italianafacebook.com/sancarlogroup @sancarlo_group

For all enquiries contact Sally Rouse on 01780 763136 or email [email protected] Saints’ Hotels Ltd. All Saints’ Place, Stamford, PE9 2AG t. 01780 763136

Available Monday to Saturday lunch and Monday toThursday dinner throughout January and February*

Choice of a pie from the pie menu, served with potatoes and vegetables,along with a pint** (or a soft drink or 175ml glass of house wine).

*Starts from 2nd January 2012 and excludes Valentine’s Day night. **Adnams or Carlsberg.

t. 01780 75632121 Stamford Road, Easton on the Hill, PE9 3NS

[email protected]

www.theexeterarms.net

t. 01780 740 250 Main Street Ufford, Stamford, PE9 3BH

[email protected]

www.whitehartufford.co.uk

Pie and a pint for only £11*

t. 01780 763136All Saints’ Place, Stamford, PE9 2AG

reservations@thecrownhotelstamford.co.ukwww.thecrownhotelstamford.co.uk

We use only the finest ingredients to make our handcrafted, fabulous food, for your freezer. Call into the shop in Stoneygate, stock up and all you have to do is decide what to eat and when. Fantastic

food at your fingertips

Banish the winter blues with our fabulous slow cooked winter dishes – perfect to come home to on a dark winter evening!

See off those extra pounds after the festive season with our new low fat calorie counted range.

Gluten free? We have dishes made especially with you in mind

Try our new we make you bake range – we make the mixture you take it home and bake it – wonderfully fresh cakes and biscuits from

your own oven – no fuss! - choose from Lemon drizzle, chocolate brownies and simply the shortest shortbread, yumyum

Fantastic range of must have’ kitchen gadgets in stock

We can deliver to your door

Visit us at 6 Francis Street, Stoneygate, Leicester, LE2 2BDtel 0116 2700885

Shop open 10am – 5pm Monday to Saturday

Visit our website www.lucysfood.co.ukwww.facebook/lucysfood

’


FORAGING

‘W! retur" to our bas! and cut # smal$ piec! of horseradis% root –

&rest 'u(s Great Food attends Survival School in the National Forest and samples chickweed, pigeon, and dogrose, all washed down with a cup of Douglas fir tea

T he food and drink scene is as prone to buzzwords as any other. One is ‘foraging’ – the notion that you can forget supermarkets because, hey, nature’s got a

whole larder out there just waiting for you. It’s a concept that’s entered the finest of fine dining

experiences, with the double-Michelin starred Sat Bains Restaurant creating a dish catchily entitled NG7 2SA, which is made with produce foraged from the Nottingham restaurant’s postcode. Wild food is so modish that it’s even had a backlash, with influential Metro critic Marina O’Loughlin railing against “weeds” taking over restaurants in the form of “pools of sulphuric khaki sludge”.

We wanted to assess some of the possibilities for regular cooks to find good flavours in the great outdoors. With help from the people at the National Forest we contacted Jonny Crockett, an ex-Royal Marine who now runs Survival School, a leading company that teaches people bushcraft and survival skills, promoting understanding of and respect for the environment.


WORDS & PHOTOS: TIM BURKE

Foraging food

it blasts th! nos! wit" its pungenc#’

Snouting out a horseradish root.

Out in the wildsA day out with Jonny is a real revelation. We meet in the heart of the National Forest a few miles outside Burton on Trent and immediately step into the autumn woodlands, Jonny’s eyes darting around, looking for tell-tale signs. He’s reading the countryside like the face of a well-loved friend.

“The forager has to get into the habit of remembering plants,” says Jonny. “In exactly the same way as you recall where things are positioned in certain shops, it’s possible to build up a stock of memories that pinpoint where different plants grow at different times of the year.”

First up was a quick and easy win – a couple of pears go in the bag. Then Jonny pulls down a branch of berries – they’re haws and he gets me to nibble around the core of the bright red fruit. “What are you getting?” he asks. To my surprise, it’s apple. “That’s what I get – and maybe a little avocado.” And you know, he’s right.

We move on and carefully pick a few sprigs from Douglas-fir trees. “This is an all year round treat – it makes a lovely cup of tea,” claims Jonny. Later we brew up and where I’m expecting a resinous, retsina flavour, what actually appears is a delightful citrus drink with distinctive grapefruit notes and even a touch of mandarin.

There are some hips on a dogrose – they’re a great alternative to buying out of season raspberries, advises

Jonny. Watch out for the seeds though, he stresses, they’re used for itching powder. I’m suddenly even more grateful that I was never on a Royal Marine expedition.

I’m starting to get excited by the breadth of unusual and intense flavours offered by what seems like a perfectly ordinary stretch of Midlands forest.

Next up, Jonny dives off into the undergrowth and comes back with two pretty much identical plants – one is

a dock, one is horseradish. We return to our base and cut a small piece of horseradish root. It blasts the nose with delicious pungency.

The rulesThe similarity between dock and horseradish highlights one of the more difficult aspects of foraging, though. How do you what’s good and more importantly, what’s safe?

“There’s no substitute for being shown properly by someone who knows,” says Jonny. “But there’s lots you can learn on your own. Most people walking around this wood would know, say, 10 plants. So why not make it 11 next week? And 12 the week after. By the end of a year, you’re up to 60!”

Survival SchoolSurvival School offers a range of courses from foraging to extreme survival in venues around the UK. For more info visit www.survivalschool.co.uk. For details of other woodland craft activities in the National Forest, visit www.nationalforest.org and look under ‘Forest Experiences’.

Douglas firTea made with the needles of this evergreen conifer is surprisingly refreshing, lemony and sweet. Simply soak in boiling water, allow to infuse and drink (see below).

SUBSCRIBE LIKE THIS MAGAZINE? TURN TO P23 TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEXT ISSUE

Ex-Marine Jonny Crockett makes a mean

coniferous cuppa.


FORAGING

There are some other basic rules to consider for anyone who wants to get out and forage. In terms of what you’re allowed to collect, think of the four f’s – fruit, fungi, flowers and foliage. Basically, you don’t take the whole plant or the roots. You should not collect for commercial gain and you should not touch anything that’s on a protected list – if you’re collecting small plants or herbs, Jonny reckons the amount held in your cupped hands is plenty enough.

Deeper in the woods we find other aromatic little plants with evocative names – opposite-leaved golden saxifrage is an acquired taste but works well in salads and soups, while

‘Opposit!-leaved golde" saxifrag! is a" acquired tast! but works wel# i" salads’

What to forage when spring finally arrives...Early in the season there’s birch sap, a traditional favourite in Eastern Europe, which can be made into a delicious wine. Beech leaves at this time are lovely in a cheese sandwich. Slightly later comes wild garlic – Jonny recommends looking near beech trees in April, before the forest canopy is in place – and suggests muddling the leaves into a sauce to serve with pigeon. “Then there’s burdock, nettles for soup… the countryside around the National Forest is heaving with foliage and flowers in the spring,” says Jonny. “It’s a question of getting your eye in.” Roll on spring!

The golden rule of foragingIf you’re not sure, don’t eat it. This applies to absolutely everything, especially fungi.

hairy bitter cress has an intense pepperiness as it rests on the tongue. Even the ubiquitous chickweed adds nice, spicy notes (and sometimes makes an appearance in Sat Bains’ NG7 2SA dish).

Dinner timeAfter a while we decide it’s time to eat. I collect wood, while Jonny produces a pigeon, shot yesterday and left in a cold store. In true man-of-the-woods style, he rips off the head, and reveals a crop packed full of berries.

I’m glad it enjoyed a great last meal. The wings are twisted off, the body turned inside out, thumbs are slid under the breast bone and in 30 seconds, with no knife and no blood, we’ve got two plump breast fillets. A skillet goes on the fire, we caramelise some slices of pear, add a selection of

the leaves we’ve collected, and then cook the pigeon. Eaten as we sit on the dappled forest floor and washed down with that refreshing Douglas fir tea, this is

hugely enjoyable food. “I’m not a chef, but this isn’t a dinner party,” chips in Jonny. “I do think that something happens to food when it’s wrapped in cellophane. Out here, with the food and flavours you’ve collected yourself – now

that is something special.”

Jonny prepares dinner. Step 1.

Hawthorn berries have an appley tinge.

Wild cooking at its finest.

You can’t go wrong with a juicy pear or two.


Important information: Offer open until Feb 28, 2012. Unless you state otherwise, subscriptions will start with the next issue (Issue 11). The minimum term is six issues. Your personalised Great Food Club membership card may take up to six weeks to arrive. Full terms & conditions at www.greatfoodmag.co.ukOpt-out option: Great Food Club offers are updated regularly and to keep you informed, Great Food would like to contact you by email or by post. We will never share your details with anyone else. However, if you’d prefer not to be contacted by post or email, please tick here [ ].

YOUR DETAILSMr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name .............................................................................................................................

Surname ........................................................................................................................................................................

Address ..........................................................................................................................................................................

..............................................................................................................................................................................................

Postcode........................................................................................................................................................................

Tel no ...............................................................................................................................................................................

Email ................................................................................................................................................................................

SEND YOUR COMPLETED ORDER FORM AND CHEQUE FOR £17.50 TO:Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. Please make cheques payable to Rocco Media.

Or, to subscribe online, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and click ‘subscribe’.


SUBSCRIBE AND GET FREE MEMBERSHIP AT GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK OR GREATFOODCLUB.CO.UK OR FILL OUT THIS FORM (PHOTOCOPIES ARE OK) AND SEND A CHEQUE

I’d like to subscribe for six issues, starting with the next issue (Issue 11, out Mar 5), and receive free annual membership to Great Food Club, all for £17.50

I’d like to a buy back issue/s for £3.20 each (please select which)ISSUE 1 ISSUE 2 ISSUE 3 ISSUE 4 ISSUE 5 ISSUE 6ISSUE 7 ISSUE 8 ISSUE 9

SUBSCRIBE AND GET FREE MEMBERSHIP

WHY SUBSCRIBE?You’ll be able to look forward to a unique magazine that focuses on local food and drink. You will also get free membership to Great Food Club, enabling you to save money at local restaurants and farm shops using your membership card.

Six issues of Great Food delivered to your door and free annual membership to Great Food Club for £17.50

SPECIAL OFFER!

HOW TO MAKE...

Hare is a rare treat. It is like rabbit only in appearance; in flavour it is considerably stronger, richer, meatier. It is also a whole lot bigger.

Although not exactly rife, wild hare populations are strong in some areas,

including the Midlands, so your conscience can be clean should you be fortunate enough to find one offered for sale. There is no official closed season for hare, but it cannot be sold between March and July, a measure designed to protect the species during breeding season.

I am not a big fan of traditional jugging – where the whole animal is stewed in a casserole – so I cook the three main parts of hare in different ways. Your butcher should be more than happy to provide shoulder, loin and back legs in separate portions.

Hare three waysNow’s the perfect time for hare, says fur fanatic Matt Gregory

Serves 4 (6 as a starter)* Loins from one hare

* 2 to 3 sausages, de-skinned. Or, if you’re an offal fan, the heart, liver and kidneys from one hare, plus one sausage de-skinned

* 8-10 rashers streaky bacon

* Salt and pepper to taste

1 If using the offal rather than sausage meat, finely chop and mix together the heart, liver and kidneys from the hare and combine with a little sausage meat. 2 Lay streaky bacon flattened out with a knife on to cling film. Spread the offal paste (or just sausage meat if you aren’t using offal) thinly over the centre section of the bacon. 3 & 4 Place loins thin end to fat in the middle of the paste. Carefully roll the bacon up in the cling film, making sure not to roll the film up inside the bacon. Twist the ends to form a compact sausage and refrigerate for at least an hour. When cold you can slice the roll into 3cm rounds whilst still in the cling film – it should neatly hold its shape once the cling film is removed. 5 Place in a hot (220°C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes, rest for five. Serve with roast root veg, braised greens or even wild mushrooms.

1 & 2

3 4 5

There are far more hares in the east of England than the west. This is probably

because the east has more arable land, which offers

easier living for hares than the dairy-focused

west.

HARE DIVIDE


Recipe #1Loin of HareThe two loin pieces are very fine pieces of meat, having no fat, a dense texture and massive flavour. Combined they will weigh in the region of 300-350g

Hare

Recipe #2 Confit Hare HaunchThe two back legs from a hare are neatly single-portion sized, weighing approximately 250g each on the bone

A delicious and totally non-traditional way to cook hare legs is to use the classic southern French method of preserving duck, but modified. The big difference, of course, is that ducks are very fatty, so come with their own cooking medium; hares are not, so we have to be creative.Lard may seem to be the very devil of foods to some, but it is an extraordinary cooking fat, and not nearly as bad as it’s made out to be. Used in place of duck fat, it has a transformational effect on the lean muscle of the hare; also, due to the low moisture content of the meat, the period of pre-salting can be omitted.

Recipe #3Hare RaguThe meat from the hare’s front legs and rib cage is ideal for making into sauce for pasta

Being lean and rich, hare benefits from the addition of a little pork and/or beef mince to prevent it drying out and to provide enough sauce for decent portions. Don’t be tempted to put hare through a mincer – it mysteriously turns to a sand-type substance.

1 Marinate the hare pieces overnight with sofrito veg (onion, carrot, celery, garlic), some juniper berries and maybe some thyme, all slicked up with some olive oil, but no wine.2 Fry hare and mince in a pan big enough to take all ingredients, just long enough for the meat to gain some colour. 3 Remove and set aside, add lardons of pancetta or sliced streaky bacon and fry until brown and

then add all the marinade veg to sweat down. Add the wine, tomato purée and bring to the boil.4 Return the hare and mince, top up with a little stock, bring to the boil and simmer over a low heat for about two hours. 5 Remove bones from hare and tear up any larger pieces. Return to the sauce. 6 Serve with pappardelle pasta topped with grated Parmesan.

1 In a pot with a tight-fitting lid, just large enough to take the two legs, melt enough lard to cover the legs. 2 Add a couple of bay leaves, several cloves of garlic and a few black peppercorns. Pop the legs in and put the lid on. Place in a very low oven, Gas 1/2 (120°C) for about five hours.3 Once cooked, transfer the legs to a sealable jar and top up with the still-hot lard. Allow to cool, then

refrigerate. The longer you leave it, the finer the flavour – I have left them for up to six months, but that might be a little extreme. 4 When you are ready to eat it, bring the pot up to room temperature, carefully remove the legs from the pot and scrape off as much fat as possible. Heat in a hot oven (Gas 5, 190°C), for about 15 minutes and serve with colcannon and roast carrots.

Serves 2* 2 back legs from a hare * 500g+ lard

* 2 bay leaves, several cloves of garlic and a few black peppercorns

* 2 hare front legs and meat from the rib cage

* 500g beef or pork mince, or a combination of the two

* 50g pancetta or smoked streaky bacon

* Sofrito veg: 1 onion, 2 carrots, 2 sticks of celery, 4 cloves garlic, 4 juniper berries, thyme, olive oil

* Glass red wine

* Tin tomatoes

* 250ml chicken stock

* 1 tbsp tomato purée

* Salt and pepper to taste

* 300g pappardelle pasta

* 50g Parmesan cheese

Serves 4 to 6

A fantastically gamey take on ragu sauce.

Not Dr Jekyll’s lab but a normal sight in

Matt Gregory’s kitchen.


LOCAL PRODUCER

Thirty-eight years ago, Richard Craven-Smith-Milnes was often seen driving around London in a

taxi with no rear seat. Bouncing in the back were a pile of baked hams, a small mountain of cheese and bags of ground coffee. Hands on wheel, A-Z on knee, it must have been an exciting if fraught time for Richard and his wife, Jane. Richard had just given up his City job with Lloyds and paid £50 for a ramshackle food business called the Country Victualler; he was delivering victuals to many intriguing characters around the capital.

Forty-odd years later, Richard is still the Country Victualler but is now based at Nottinghamshire’s Winkburn Hall. And instead of delivering personally to flats, he’s sending hams and more to the likes of Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges.

Taking the business to where it is today has been an incredible journey

and the Country Victualler’s history is as rich as its Christmas puddings. “I bought the business in 1973 from a chap called Colonel Dickinson, who used to be in the Royal Ulster Rifles,” says Richard. “He ran a village shop in Alderton, Suffolk but also delivered hams to London clients.” Richard’s £50 bought the Colonel’s client list, the rights to produce and sell his excellent

Alderton ham (see opposite page) and two deep freezers, one of which finally gave up the ghost in 2010!

Back then, Richard and Jane lived in Kensington. “I built our first kitchen in the basement,” says Richard. “I did all the gaswork, electrics and plumbing – you’d go to prison now! We used to cook the hams there. Our dog and three children were in the same house.”

The country was less obsessed with health and safety back then, and it didn’t care much about food, either. “The whole attitude to British food has changed dramatically,” says Richard. “In the 70s, selling delicatessen foods was considered very odd. Back then we had no competition at all but were trying to convince people that there was something better.”

“You could barely buy a fresh egg in London,” says Jane. “And if you lived in – say – Putney, the nearest place to get decent coffee was Jacksons, Piccadilly.”

ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

Nottinghamshire’s Country Victualler was producing and delivering fantastic food before most Brits had even heard of delis

NATIONAL TREASURE

The hall Built in 1695, Winkburn Hall is the ancestral home of the Craven-Smith-Milnes. Richard bought it and returned it to his family in the ‘70s. At that point it was in such a state that the seller advised him to see a psychiatrist.


Family jewelsSitting on the kitchen shelf at Winkburn Hall is Richard’s mother’s handwritten recipe book, which she compiled over many years. It contains a treasure trove of dishes – some rather rich for today’s tastes – and has inspired some of the Country Victualler’s products, including its Christmas pudding. The recipe below for Georgian chicken soup was lifted directly from the book.

The Country Victualler

This was fertile ground for a high-quality food producer/deliverer, and at the same time the country’s first delis started to open. “Deli pioneer Justin de Blank was our first shop customer, and our second was Partridges, which is still going,” says Jane. “In fact, we attended its opening.”

The Country Victualler’s client base grew. Richard continues: “On Mondays we phoned customers to ask what they wanted and then I delivered. Clients gave me the keys to their flats – I had about 20 bunches, including those of Labour chancellor Roy Jenkins: I’d let myself in, leave food in the fridge and collect money. One customer employed a butler who regularly put in an order of £100. It transpired that the

The original recipe for Alderton ham came from Colonel Dickinson, the man who founded the Country Victualler in the 1960s and then sold the business to Richard for £50 in 1973. “We steam the hams for four hours, take the skin off, cover them in marmalade and then dry bake for another four hours. That means the marmalade permeates the entire joint.” As well as a delicious, rich flavour, the cooking process gives Alderton ham a balanced texture – not too dry but not too moist. “We buy as many hams as possible from Nottinghamshire,” says Richard, “but sometimes we’re forced to look further afield to Circencester. Colonel Dickinson originally used Polish hams from very small farms but that became far too expensive. Also, one batch tasted completely different from the next.”

Alderton hamThe Country Victualler’s flagship product

butler was ordering and selling the food on, while his boss paid the bill.”

Eventually, Richard and Jane moved their kitchen to Nottinghamshire, farmed out the distribution and became – primarily – producers. Today, the Country Victualler makes a range of highly regarded foods, including its famous Alderton ham, chicken liver and brandy paté, smoked salmon paté, duck liver terrine with vine fruits and a rich fruit pudding made to Richard’s great grandmother’s 1878 recipe, which Richard discovered in his mother’s old cookbook (see above).

A favourite of Rick Stein.

CONTACTThe Country Victualler, Winkburn Hall, Winkburn, Nottinghamshire NG22 8PQ01636 636465, www.alderton.co.uk

1 Chop the onions finely and cook them gently (you do not want them to brown) in the butter.2 Add the flour.3 When the onions are cooked, pour over a little of the chicken broth and slowly bring to the boil.4 Add the remaining broth and simmer for about an hour.

5 Meanwhile, shred chicken meat.6 After the hour is up, add shredded chicken and warm through.7 Just before serving, break two egg yolks into a large bowl and whisk with a dash of sugar.8 Pour into the hot soup, stirring all the time.9 Add lemon juice to taste.

* Chicken stock * 4 good-sized onions

* 4 oz butter * 2 eggs

* 2 tbsp flour * Salt, pepper, sugar

* A little lemon juice or vinegar * 1 smoked chicken

Georgian chicken soup

“My love of food comes from my mother,” says Richard. “After the war, when everyone ate nothing but clear soup, she was known for her culinary skills.” No doubt, then, she would have enjoyed the visit of Rick Stein to Winkburn Hall in 2005 – having heard about Alderton ham, the Cornish chef came along to film there.

Driving his delivery taxi in 1973, Richard couldn’t have known how much his new £50 food business was going change his life, but there’s no doubt he got what he was looking for.

The name A victualler (pronounced ‘vittler’) is a person who sells food and alcohol. The official food supplier to the Royal Navy in the 19th century was the Victualling Board.


Richard’s mother’s cookbook. Below: Richard and Jane

Craven-Smith-Milnes.

The Country Victualler is part of

Great Food Club www.greatfood

club.co.uk

Charlotte Falkingham with

xxx x x xx x x Charlotte

Falkingham with xxx x x xx x x

Charlotte Falkingham with

xxx x x xx x x

OUT & ABOUT


Above: Karen Nethercott from award-winning

Norfolk smallholding, Samphire. Below:

Samphire’s lauded pies.

Above: Masterchef 2010 runner-up Tim Kinnaird – who runs Norfolk’s

Macarons & More – with Jenna Farrow.

TV chef Mark Sargeant blends merrily on the

Saturday Kitchen stage.

irmingham’s NEC was crammed with food from November 23-27 for the Beeb’s Winter Good Food Show. According to organiser

Haymarket Events, more than 80,000 people paid over £20 to get in. Five days is a long time for a show, especially for the 400 or so exhibitors, but happily – as Great Food cook/photographer Hazel Paterson can testify – there was a variety of alcoholic samples to be imbibed, which helped maintain smiles.

Star of the show was the Producers’ Village, an area devoted to small, locally focused food businesses from all over the UK. The atmosphere here was fun, with a farmers’ market feel and plenty of fascinating produce to try and buy. There were many other zones too, including a Saturday Kitchen stage and an area populated by larger food businesses.

This was a huge T-Bone steak of a show with masses to see and do.

BFive days of food in Birmingham. Photos by Hazel PatersonBBC Winter Good Food Show

Joe Delucci’s Gelato – from Lighthorne, Warwickshire – had one of the busiest stands at the show.

Gregg Glass from the Compass Box Whisky Co. pours a few wee drams.

According to the photographer, the Peat Monster was a winner!

Great Food Magazine 00Great Food Magazine 29

Below: “Womersley’s Golden Raspberry and Apache Chilli Vinegar was just incredible,” says photographer Hazel Paterson (see p34).

Sussex’s Rossmore Oysters were selling

Jersey Rock and Scottish Native varieties.

Left: You want meat? We’ve got meat. The

stand belonging to West Country butcher Gerald David & Family meant few carnivores left the

NEC steak-free. Right: Isle of Wight’s

Garlic Farm.

BBC Winter Good Food Show

Ben Preston (left) and John Hendy from Leeds-based Womersley Foods, which has specialised in fruit and herb vinegars and jellies since 1979.

• OUT & ABOUT •O

UT & ABOUT • OUT

& A

BOUT !"Fe#iva$

A s shoppers, we’re wising up to the merits of the field-to-fork philosophy. Whether thanks is due to Jamie’s school dinners rant, Hugh’s conscience-pricking fish fight or we are just

becoming more discerning, there’s no doubt about it – we’re all starting to care more about where our food comes from. Cottage industries are on the up, no more so than when it comes to producing good quality food, especially at a local level.

But have you wondered how smaller companies actually get their wares on to the shelves of supermarkets, farm shops and delis? It would appear that it’s not just consumers who have wised up, so too have the buyers at some of the bigger stores, who claim to be just as eager to support small-scale food producers as we are. As the recession hit, sales in organic and fair trade produce fell, but according to Tracey Marshall, a local and regional product manager for Waitrose, sales in local, small-scale produce has continued to increase year on year by 16 per cent.

LOCAL PRODUCE

How easy is it for local producers to get their food and drink in the shops?

George Dryden investigates…

Get on the shelf!ARTICLE: GEORGE DRYDEN PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK & MATT WRIGHT


Tracey’s office receives four cold calls from would-be suppliers every day, but the company still sends out buyers and even branch managers to scout for talent.

“If somebody comes to us with the right product at the right time with the right packaging, the process of getting that item into a store might take only three months but it’s six on average,” says Tracey. “It all depends on the risk level of the food.”

Along with colleague Oliver O’Mara, it’s Tracey’s job to hold the hands of small businesses who have never before seen their goods stacked on a supermarket shelf, and perhaps never thought they would. “Out of the 2500 local produce lines Waitrose sells, 1700 of them are sold in fewer than seven branches,” she says. “Some may even only supply their nearest store.” Tracey and Oliver help such businesses by giving advice on barcodes, trading standards practices, and marketing. “There’s room for big and small suppliers, and we know from research that the more local a product is, the more affinity it has with the consumer,” she continues. “We do have a number of suppliers who actually make their products in their own kitchens.”

One of the first things Tracey normally does is to put the producer in touch with their regional food group, of which there are 10 in the UK (see ‘How we did it’ panel, p33). It’s the best network for keeping producers in touch with changes in the law and new opportunities.

Your regional food group can also help with product distribution, printing, marketing and spreading the word about sales events. Many small-scale suppliers will deliver their goods direct to the stores rather than to a distribution depot, helping to nurture the relationship between store and producer, as well as keeping food miles to a minimum. It also means a more relaxed attitude to delivery schedules which are made for the supplier’s convenience rather than that of the store.

Local producersCamille Ortega McLean is one of Waitrose’s shining stars, after being spotted by a buyer at a food fair. The founder and sole owner of The Pickled Village, Camille produces marmalades, pickles, preserves and chutneys in a room at the back of her shop, Bulwick Village Stores in Northamptonshire.

“My experience with Waitrose has been great. They’re keen to work with small producers and will even help with advice on packaging. I am in the process of creating a special line for another major supermarket, which will hopefully take 22 lines in 20 of its stores.”

Leicestershire cheese-maker Jo Clarke tells a similar tale. Setting up Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Company in 2005, Jo and her husband and co-founder David Clarke became the first traditional makers of unpasteurised cheese on a dairy farm using Leicestershire milk since 1956.

Selling to scores of delis and farm shops all over the country, but particularly in London and Leicestershire, the pair quickly knew they had hit on the perfect solution for an ailing dairy market. The uniqueness of their Sparkenhoe Red Leicester cheese meant it wasn’t

The Pickled Village Run by Camille Ortega McLean (right), this Northamptonshire producer’s quirkily named chutneys and marmalades – including The Amorous Breakfast and Rapscallion – are listed by Waitrose.

Leicestershire HandmadeCheese Jo and David Clarke make cheese in west Leics and supply Booths and Waitrose, among others.

Food retail

MICRO PRODUCING

It’s a year since Karen Taylor and her business partner Emma Dobson started Rutland Preserves in Whissendine in January 2011, yet their 17 products can now be bought in 35 delis, farm shops, butchers, and cheese shops in Rutland, Northamptonshire, Leicestershire and Lincolnshire. “We don’t want to go into supermarkets because we don’t want to become mass-produced and sacrifice

quality. There are only two of us making everything, so we have complete control,” says Karen, who usually approaches a shop by emailing photos and information, then follows up with a phone call. “People generally want to see us after that. I think that’s because we have a strong brand identity. And after that, it’s taste. If you haven’t got a good brand, then you’re just another preserves maker.”

Rutland Preserves

Local growth{ }“Out of the 2500 local produce lines

Waitrose sells, 1700 of them are sold in fewer than seven branches”

Tracey Marshall



long before the larger market beckoned. Jo explains: “We had already got our cheese into Neal’s Yard Dairy in Covent Garden and soon after Waitrose approached us. We sell to them through a cheese wholesaler based in Buxton, which also takes care of the packaging, on advice from Waitrose.” It took eight months from the start of negotiations to actually sending out the stock – 300kg a week to 140 stores, each packet of cheese proudly bearing the company’s name.

“Waitrose’s standards may be high, but they are sensible with it – they understand the small producer, but equally the customer. They appreciate that the customer wants to be educated about the cheese and

LOCAL PRODUCE

exactly how it is different to, say, a Leicestershire cheese made in a factory. I’d advise any small producers to create as much awareness of their product as possible – it doesn’t have to be expensive, just take samples to as many shops and delis as you can.”

Farm shops and delisDeli Flavour in Allandale Road, Leicester has a steady stream of local food producers lining up to supply it, including Lubcloud Dairy (Leicestershire), Spice Entice (Leicester), Just So Italian (Market Harborough), Jam on the Hill (Oakham) and Langton Ales (Thorpe Langton, Leicestershire).

Co-owner Andy Ritchie says: “I would say that more than half of the items we stock are from the local area. We look at the product and make sure that it’s good quality and will sell.”

Likewise, Green and Brown which has bustling stores in garden centres at Trentham, Derby and Newent, Gloucestershire follows a similar ethos, says Susie Keenan, who owns the business in partnership with Blue Diamond garden centres.

“Locality is our priority, followed by the ability of a product to fill a gap in our overall offering. And the story behind each product is also important because that’s what makes it special.” Current producers supplying Susie include Incognito Cakes (Ripley), Coriander Garden chutneys (Allestree) and Nutbrook Brewery (near Derby).

Well before the supermarkets began their local-sourcing drives in the UK, Milly Stokes and her husband Kevin were already responding to the demand for locally produced, high-quality food and drink. Farndon Fields, in Farndon Road, Market Harborough was launched in 1983 from the couple’s garage, selling fresh fruit and veg from their own farm.

Deli Flavour Leicester’s Deli Flavour team uses experience to predict if a product will sell before stocking it. From left: Arminder Banger, Jasmyn Mears and Andy Ritchie.

Farndon Fields

This bustling Market Harborough farm shop, run

by Milly and Kevin Stokes (pictured above), judges

each product individually.

Stories sell{ }“The story behind each food and drink

product is important, as that is what makes

it special”Susie Keenan

GET SALSA’D

Mark Hughes, founder of The Taste Gourmet Spice Co, insists on the personal approach when approaching delis and says that it pays dividends, as does the determination not to take no for an answer. “It’s simple advice but persistence pays off, no matter who you want to sell to. When I go to food festivals I always ask people to name their local deli to build up my knowledge.” Mark’s Asian and Eastern inspired spiced vinegars, oils and rubs are on the shelves of 22 delis and farm shops across the East Midlands after he started the business up in 2011, hitting

the food fair circuit with gusto. He is now setting his sights on the big boys from his base in Weldon, Northamptonshire. But before he could even think about contacting a major buyer he had to tackle the red tape – a SALSA accreditation. SALSA is a food safety standard, combining the legal requirements and best practice expectations of buyers. A non-profit-making scheme, SALSA is run by the National Farmers’ Union (NFU), Food and Drink Federation (FDF), the British Hospitality Association (BHA) and the British Retail Consortium (BRC).

“No large retailer will consider buying from you unless you have this in place,” explains Mark. Even with part-time help from his partner Kerry Jackson, Mark has his hands full with selling and everything that goes with running a business, so applications take time. “It can take a few months but it depends on how much spare time you have,” he says. “I could have done it quicker if I hadn’t been so busy.”

The Taste Gourmet Spice Company

Deli Flavour is in Leicester’s Stoneygate.

The business has continued to grow and now has the names of many local, small-scale producers on its books, insisting on minimal additives, E-numbers and preservatives wherever possible.

“Ideally, we look for people with an unusual product that is not available in any of the major supermarkets,” says Milly. “Each product is judged on its individual merit and we believe in putting the producer’s own name on the label if we haven’t produced it ourselves,” she continues. “Around 70 per cent of our stock is from within a 30-mile radius.”

Local producers whose goods pack the shelves at Farndon Fields Farm Shop include Welland Valley Wines (Marston Trussell), Hambleton Bakery (Exton) and Rutland Preserves (Whissendine).

Other big retailersAsda stocks more than 6000 local products in its stores from more than 500 local suppliers, including Kirtons Bakery in Leicester and rapeseed oil producer Heart of Gold, based in Leicestershire.

C-J Antal-Smith, category director for local sourcing, says: “Local sourcing is a fundamental and growing part of Asda’s business and its ethos is to help small producers and get their products listed.

“Our local sourcing managers and buyers take a tailored and flexible approach with suppliers, whether they want to supply one store, ten stores or a whole region of stores. We make sure they grow in line with their capabilities. We also work with customers to understand regional tastes and are always on the

lookout for great new local products.

“Working with a large supermarket can be intimidating and confusing so we try to simplify the process. We give producers a guide to supplying us, arrange direct deliveries to a local hub rather than into depot, and offer flexibility with minimum orders and faster payment terms.”

A Sainsbury’s spokesman says: “Our local teams on the ground meet directly with producers and suppliers to build strong relationships. They are also local to the area so know exactly what sort of regional variations the community might be interested in. Many customers want to buy regionally sourced food that reflects local tastes and traditions and helps support rural communities.

Sue McNally, category specialist at Midlands Co-operative Society, says: “Our ‘Taste of Local’ range is in its infancy and has been introduced to selected stores to offer customers locally sourced food and drink products, many of which are unique to certain areas.

“This has allows us to support local suppliers as well as give customers the opportunity to try something a bit out of the ordinary. We now stock a variety of products from a diverse number of Midlands suppliers, including Jam on the Hill, Grainstore Brewery, Everards and Gadsby’s Bakery. We select according to quality, as well as location of production.”

FIRST THINGS FIRST: If you want any shop to take you seriously, you need SALSA accreditation. Go to www.salsafood.co.uk

THE LEGAL STUFF: Contact your local trading standards agency and the Food Standards Agency (www.food.gov.uk) early on, so you know exactly what is expected from the outset. This will save a lot of time, money, and possibly heartache.

KNOW YOUR ALLIES: Contact your regional food group for advice, information, contacts and events. These groups are familiar with the supermarkets, what they expect and what they look for in a new product. For the East Midlands contact the Food and Drink Forum on 0115 9758810 (foodcampus.com). For the West Midlands contact HEFF on 01743 452818 (heff.co.uk).

DO YOUR SUMS: Don’t forget to make a profit, particularly after those to delivery costs!

HIT THE FOOD FESTIVALS: Many supermarkets send scouts and buyers out to such events specifically to spot unsung food heroes. Several of the major food retailers also hold their own showcase events.

PACKAGING AND MARKETING: Would your current packaging and marketing arsenal catch the eyes of

shoppers in a busy supermarket? If not, it’s probably worth investing money in a reputable marketing consultant to get it right.

WHAT’S YOUR PRODUCT’S STORY? What makes your product unique? Are you communicating this in your packaging? What will a buyer want included in your initial proposal?

PASSION IS POWER: Are you passionate enough about your product? If you are, this will help you through the busy, stressful times. And if you don’t believe totally in what you are offering, who else will?

PATIENCE AND PERSISTENCE: Visit lots of local farm shops and delis with samples of your products. The personal approach will often get you further. And remember, becoming a supplier to a supermarket may take many months, depending on the risk factor of your product.

WHO ELSE DO YOU SELL TO? Try to think quality rather than quantity. If you’ve managed to get on to the shelves of a small-scale but prestigious shop, this may carry considerable weight with the larger retailers.

WHERE IS YOUR BUSINESS GOING? If you want to keep things small-scale, a supermarket willing to work with smaller order sizes would probably suit you best.

Brown &Green With three outlets, B&G is a growing stockist of local artisan producers. Below: founder Susie Keenan and Derby shop manager Tom Stanley.

HOW WE DID IT: Tips from producers

Rise of local{ }“Many customers want to buy regionally sourced food that

reflects local tastes and traditions”

Sainsbury’s spokesman

Quality is king{ }“Each product is judged on individual merit and

we believe in putting the maker’s own

name on the label” Milly Stokes

Food retail


I love this time of year – the local game is plump (as are many of us after the Christmas indulgences) and the root veg is still going strong. Despite the days slowly

getting longer and brighter, the weather calls for warming casseroles and hearty fare to carry us through to the new shoots and meats of spring. The dishes and recipes I’m sharing with you here have all been tried and tested at home by me. I hope they improve your winter.

SEASONAL RECIPES

WYLDELIGHT KITCHEN

Recipes from

Great Food’s new cook Hazel Paterson has been busy in her Melton Mowbray kitchen creating dishes for you to try at home


1 Lightly flour the partridges; then, in a heavy-based casserole pan, brown them in half the oil. Remove and place in the slow cooker. 2 Add the rest of the oil and the cumin seeds to the casserole pan and gently fry for about 30 seconds, then add the onion and soften until it starts to caramelise slightly. Next, add the garlic, grated ginger and cinnamon stick. Cook gently for a minute; then tip pan contents into the slow cooker.3 Add the remaining ingredients (except the lemons). Top up with the chicken stock so that the partridges are covered by liquid. I like a bit of bite to my lemons so I add them about half way through cooking, but you can throw them in at the beginning with everything else if you like.

The beauty of the slow cooker is that you can leave it to gently do its work all day while you get on with other things. And you don’t have to worry about it drying out, either. Once ready, make your couscous as per the packet instructions and, if using them, gently toast the flaked almonds in a dry pan. Serve on a bed of couscous and sprinkle with the flaked almonds and pomegranate seeds.

It’s usual to serve couscous with a potato side dish but all the different tastes and textures work so well – just pick up a baby potato and dunk in the juices and then the dukkah.

Alternatively, forget the couscous and serve with just potatoes and spice dip! I have a spoonful of hot lime pickle on the side too for a bit of a kick.

The beauty of the slow cooker is that you can leave it to gently do its work all day while you get on with other things.

Slow Cooker Partridge TagineYou don’t have to have a slow cooker to make this – you can use a heavy-based casserole dish and bake it gently in the oven.

I love the sheer laziness of my slow cooker and it’s more energy efficient than having the oven on for hours. For the ultimate lazy supper you can put everything

straight into the slow cooker without browning it first – it will still be lovely – just add a teaspoon of cornflour mixed into a paste with a dash of water. I used dried apricots and prunes but you could use olives, blanched almonds, or whatever dried fruit you like. The sweetness against the gaminess of partridge works so well in this dish, but you could also use rabbit, chicken, pheasant, beef, lamb… whatever you fancy!

* 2 partridges

* Handful flour

* 4 tbsp rapeseed oil

* 1 medium onion peeled and thinly sliced

* 2 garlic cloves, chopped

* 1 tbsp cumin seeds

* 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and grated

* 1 cinnamon stick

* 1 heaped tsp smoked paprika

* Big pinch saffron strands (or turmeric if you prefer)

* 2 tsp Ras el Hanout (a Moroccan spice blend)

* 1 tin plum tomatoes

* 2 preserved lemons, rinsed and quartered (see over the page)

* Handful dried apricots

* Handful dried prunes

* 2 tbsp Chestnut Honey (or whatever honey you prefer)

* Chicken stock to top up

* About 10 Lapsang Souchong tea strands (optional but gives a lovely smoky, earthy flavour)

* A few grinds of black pepper

To serve* Couscous

* Baby roasted potatoes

* Super Dukkah (see opposite page)

* Toasted flaked almonds and pomegranate seeds to garnish

Roast new potatoes are good with Super Dukkah.

Recipes


Super Dukkah

Lots of people will be on some sort of New Year health kick about now. My

contribution to that is this wonderful Super Dukkah, so called because it contains tons of nutritional goodness.

Dukkah is an Egyptian side dish, and contains spices, nuts, and herbs. Use it as a dry dip for bread, roast potatoes and chips, sprinkle on salads and stews, mix with breadcrumbs, and spread onto mustard-covered lamb and roast beef. It’s really versatile and great added to your dough when making bread. I tend to make a large batch and then store in sterilised, recycled jam jars.

These quantities are just a guide so do adjust to your taste – if you like chilli, maybe add dried chilli flakes. There are no real rules to Dukkah – every Egyptian family will have their own take on it so you can’t go wrong. If this all seems a bit of a faff then you can buy a beautiful Pukka Dukkah from Northamptonshire-based Taste Gourmet Spice Company (www.tastespice.co.uk).

* Half cup walnuts

* Half cup hazelnuts

* Half cup pistachio nuts

* Half cup hemp seeds

* Half cup sunflower seeds

* 2 tbsp coriander seeds

* 1 tbsp cumin seeds

* 2 tsp linseeds

* 2 tsp each white and black sesame seeds

* 1 tbsp poppy seeds

* 1/2 tsp flaked sea salt

* Few grinds pepper

* 1 tsp ground cinnamon

* 1 tsp sweet paprika

1 In a dry pan, gently toast the first seven ingredients, moving the pan all the time to ensure they don’t burn. Once you start to smell the spices cooking, remove from the heat and leave to cool. Then pulse them in a coffee grinder (or bash them with a mortar and pestle). You want them to still be quite coarse. When you are happy with the mix then add the remaining ingredients and stir to mix. Taste and adjust your seasoning. Store in airtight jars.

Dukkah is an Egyptian side dish and contains spices, nuts and herbs – you can

use it as a dry dip

1 Slice the lemons into quarters but don’t cut all the way down to the bottom (see below). 2 Squeeze open the lemons and put some rock salt inside. Pack them into the jar, squashing as you go and adding your salt and seasonings. As you squash, the juice will come out and mix with the salts, forming its own brine. 3 Once the jar is full, top up with extra lemon juice and salt to cover the lemons and seal. Leave at room temperature and gently agitate for a few days, then leave for about six weeks. Dead easy. I use bay leaves, pepper and juniper but you can use whatever spices you like the taste of.

Preserved Lemons* Sterilised kilner jar * 6 unwaxed lemons

* Rock salt * 4 peppercorns

* 2 bay leaves * 2 juniper berries

High-energy, high-taste mix that goes with most things.


SEASONAL RECIPES

1 On a medium to low heat, soften the chopped leeks with the knob of butter in a sauté pan – you don’t want them to brown or turn to mush. Add the carton of cream and continue to cook until the cream is hot, then tip in your grated Parmesan and stir.

The cheese melts almost instantly. Just add a few grinds of black pepper and it’s ready to serve.

Cheesy LeeksI adore leeks and they are excellent at this time of year. This is my all-time favourite leek recipe – it’s just ridiculously easy and tastes wonderful.

Great as a side dish.

‘A fantastic cocktail to celebrate the arrival of forced rhubarb!’

1 Put the egg white and ginger cordial in a cup and using a milk frother (or whisk), foam it up until it forms very soft peaks.2 Place all the other ingredients

into a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake until the outside of the metal shaker frosts, then strain into a chilled Martini glass. Spoon over the foam and enjoy!

Rhubarb MartiniForced rhubarb is about at the moment so here is a tasty cocktail to celebrate its arrival! If you can’t be bothered to make the rhubarb syrup then just use tinned rhubarb in syrup.* 2 tbsp rhubarb syrup

* 50ml vanilla vodka

* 1 tsp runny honey (leave out if you want it more tart)

* 50ml good quality Mead (such as New Quay Honey Farm sweet mead – thehoneyfarm.co.uk)

* 1 fresh organic egg white

* 1 tbsp Belvoir Fruit Farms Ginger cordial

Rhubarb syrup* 6 rhubarb stalks chopped * 2 cups sugar

* 2 cups water

1 Put everything in a pan and heat until boiling then simmer until the sugary mixture coats the back of a spoon (about 10-15 minutes).Strain mixture through muslin overnight and then decant syrup into a sterilised bottle and keep in the fridge.

* 6 leeks, rinsed and chopped into round discs

* 250ml carton of cream (single or double – it’s up to you)

* 100g Parmesan, grated

(supermarkets sell 100g pots of grated Parmesan – this is the only recipe that I use them for and they’re perfect)

* Knob butter & pepper to taste


Contact Head Chef and Proprietor Malc Rollings to discuss your speci c requirements.

Tel 07796 273453 www.charnia.co.uk

Bespoke Outside CateringWeddings, Dinner Parties, Events, and Hog RoastsWe only use ethically and wherever possible locally sourced produce; our menus are tailor made to your

taste and budget.

t h eB R A S S E R I Ea tB a r n s d a l e H a l l H o t e l

Available throughout January

01572 757901

www.barnsdalehotel.co.uk*subject to availability

Available throughout JanuaryAA

Celebrate The Olympic Year

2 Course lunch for 2 Monday - Saturday

£20.123 Course dinner £20.00 per person

add a glass of wine for 12p

£20.12

Barnsdale Hall Hotel, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 8AB, United Kingdom

®

www.thepickledvillage.com Tel. 01780 450774


LOCAL PRODUCER

Shawn and Jo Plumb, among the Trinidad Scorpions.

B edfordshire: home to Luton Hoo, the RSPB, Duxford’s Imperial War Museum, Biggleswade and... Edible

Ornamentals – the fieriest pick-your-own chilli farm in the world. In fact, owners Jo and Shawn Plumb claim that theirs is the only PYO chilli farm on earth. Some of the tiny red and green flashes grown here in the village of Chawston are seriously hot. They can literally put you in hospital, as contestants at a curry-eating competition in Edinburgh recently discovered. The Dorset Naga, Bhut Jolokia and Trinidad Scorpion all measure well over one million on the spice-measuring Scoville Scale – not to be messed with.

But it’s not all about tear-inducing heat, although that’s definitely a big draw for some chilli fans. Many of the

plants grown at Edible Ornamentals are incredibly beautiful – hence the farm’s name – and they also produce delicate, wonderful flavours.

Getting started Jo and Shawn purchased the Edible Ornamentals site, which now

comprises a farm shop and several packed growing houses, as a derelict garden nursery in June 2007. There were no chillies when they arrived, just dead plants and abandoned greenhouses. “It was like a ghost town,” says Jo, who had been growing chillies at her parents’ garden centre a few miles down the road. Jo caught the chilli bug in Texas, America, where she and Shawn lived after meeting in England when Shawn was stationed here with the US Air Force. On returning to the UK, they started cultivating chillies as a hobby.

Growing concernEdible Ornamentals’ propagating greenhouse is where the chilli-growing process begins. Planting starts in January: seeds are put onto compost and then covered in more


HOT ENOUGH?Edible Ornamentals is the world’s only PYO chilli farm and grows the hottest little plants in the world. Brace yourself…

Making delicious chipotle in the smoker.

Chilli farm

compost or vermiculite and left in temperatures of 20-25ºC. By April, the plants have gained four leaves and are moved into the ‘selling’ greenhouse to mature and eventually be harvested. Hotter varieties such as Habeneros, Dorset Naga and Bhut Jolokia take longer to propagate.

A stroll around Edible Ornamentals’ PYO glasshouse takes in more than 50 varieties of chilli, and people can come along to stock up.

Want to pluck the hottest in the world? “You’ll need the Trinidad Scorpion,” says Jo. “That’s the current hottest but the title changes hands all the time. There’s a large macho market for mega-hot chillies, so growers are always trying to outdo each other.”

Beautifully hotAs Jo guides Great Food around her plants, their beauty is striking. To think of chillies as just hot food misses the point, because they look brilliant, and they can easily be grown in the UK (see p41).

“The Numex Twilight [see above] and Italian Adorno are particularly attractive,” says Jo. “The Numex starts off purple, then turns yellow, orange and red. The Adorno is purple and red, with a lovely dark foliage.” Around the growing houses there are also flashes

of yellow, orange and brown among vibrant green leaves.

The names are just as evocative as the colours: Serenade, Anaheim, Aurora, Apache, Orozoco...

Then there’s the more familiar Bird Eye chilli.

“Its name comes from the fact that this variety tends to

be wolfed down by birds, which don’t have oral pain receptors like us. The birds eat them in the plant’s native South America, then fly to the Caribbean Islands. That’s how the seeds are spread.”

Other fascinating varieties include the Hungarian Hot Wax (“large and perfect for stuffing – slit them lengthways, remove the seeds, fill with tuna and diced onion, bake and then add cheese towards the end”); the mild Mexican favourite Poblano; and,

The Numex Twilight This beautiful chilli plant is the inspiration behind the Bedfordshire farm’s name – it’s both edible and highly ornamental. The Numex Twilight was found growing wild in Jalisco, Mexico.

Currently the hottest chilli in the world,measuring 1,463,700 Scoville heat units.

Used extensively in south-east Asian cuisine and so-called because their seeds are spread by birds.

Native to the Andes region so tolerates

cold. Tomato sized and shaped but very spicy, and some have liquid inside.

Mild and very popular Mexican chilli that is often stuffed with cheese

and rice, then deep-fried in batter (‘Chiles Rellenos’).

Very spicy variety with a citrus flavour.

Traditionally the type added to

tequila to give the spirit even more punch!

Trinidad Scorpion

Bird’s Eye Rocoto Poblano Habanero

WORLD OF CHILLIES

of course, the classic Jalapeno (“to make Jalapeno Poppers, stuff with full-fat soft cheese and wrap with bacon, then bake”).

Jo finishes the tour by telling us about chipotle, which are dried, smoked chillies. “Chipotle is excellent for slow cooking – the chillies impart a delicious smokey flavour that’s perfect in beef and red wine casserole or in a chilli con carne [see overleaf].

Dan’s Hot Sauce Labelled with the warning “only sold to the extremely brave”, Dan’s Hot Sauce is made by Edible Ornamentals’ cook Dan Wells (above). It’s feisty.

CONTACTEdible Ornamentals, Cherwood Nursery, Blue Bells, Chawston, Beds MK44 3BL 01480 405663, www.edible ornamentals.co.uk


Colourful fingers of fire inside Edible Ornamentals’

growing tunnel.

‘Don’t be afraid to mix up the type of fresh chillies you use’

Shawn Plumb’s Rocoto Con Carne

“This recipe incorporates Rocotos – rare chilli peppers from Bolivia,” says Shawn.

“One of the most emotionally-charged subjects when discussing chilli con carne is whether to cook it with beans. I’m definitely in the no-beans camp but you’ll find chickpeas in this one. Don’t be afraid to mix up the type of fresh chilli peppers you use. For me it depends on what I’ve picked from our PYO chilli farm.”

1 Chop and de-seed the chillies. Peel and chop the onions and garlic. Chop the beef into small chunks and season with the Jamaican jerk seasoning.2 Fry the chillies, onions, and garlic together in good quality olive oil for several

minutes. Dissolve the chicken bouillon cube in boiling water as per the instructions. Add the chicken broth to the frying pan with the vegetables. Bring to a boil in the pan for about one minute and then decant everything into your slow cooker. Or, if cooking in the oven, into a casserole dish.3 Fry the beef pieces in olive oil and then place into the slow cooker or casserole. 4 Chop your chipotle chilli into bits and add to a cup of boiling water. Leave for 20 minutes, then add the water only to your pot, straining the chilli. 5 Drain the water from the chick peas and add them to the slow cooker.6 Add the whole bottle of Cave Creek chilli beer (chilibeer.com), including the Serrano

chilli, to the slow cooker. Add oregano, honey, cumin, and the dark chocolate. Add a generous splash of red wine. I use my father-in-law’s homemade stuff, which is fantastic.7 Cook on the high setting of your slow cooker for one hour, then turn to the low setting for two additional hours. Alternatively, cook in the oven on a low heat for around three hours. Add masa flour as needed to thicken, plus salt and pepper to taste. 8 Serve with a baked potato, by itself, on top of a chilli dog, or the way Lyndon Baines Johnson, 37th President of the United States, enjoyed his chilli con carne: with a glass of milk and some saltine crackers.


RECIPE

* 500g beef

* 2 large fresh green chillies

* 1 large fresh Poblano chilli

* 2 red Jalapenos

* 2 large Rocoto chillies

* 1 large red onion

* 3 cloves of garlic

* 100g tomato puree, double concentrate

* 1 large tbsp dried oregano

* 400 grams of chick peas

* 1 chicken bouillon cube

* 2 large tbsp paprika

* tsp garlic salt (or regular salt)

* 1 generous tsp of honey

* 1 chipotle chilli

* tsp cumin

* 1 bottle Cave Creek chilli beer (or Corona)

* 1 splash of red wine

* Jamaican jerk seasoning

* Black pepper

* 25g of good dark chocolate

About the writerCraig McKnight from Nottingham has been growing his own chillies for many years and is passionate about growing. And chickens.

P eople associate chillies with hotter climates but it is actually really easy to grow them here in the rainy UK! All you need is some

multipurpose compost, a multi-cell seed tray and some seeds.

Get your seeds from a specialist supplier (see ‘Seed Suppliers’, below). By doing that you can be sure the seeds are fresh – which gives them the best chance of germinating – and try varieties you’ve never heard of.

Any variety of chilli can be grown at home. The only thing to be aware of is that the hotter varieties take over 100 days to reach maturity and to produce fruit, while the milder ones can produce fruit in ideal conditions within 60 days. The hotter varieties will also take longer to germinate.

To my mind, the best time to start planting your chilli seeds is January or February. Starting this early will give your seeds and plants a good head start, so you can enjoy lots of lovely chillies throughout the summer months.

Here are my tips on how to give your chilli seeds the best chance of germinating, and to grow into big healthy plants that will produce a good harvest of chillies all summer long.

STEP ONEThe easiest method is to fill a multi-cell seed tray with multipurpose compost, firm down and moisten with a little water. Then place a

Grow your own chillies

HOW TO...

Plant your chilli seeds in a multi-cell tray, then expose them to moisture and warmth. When they’ve come out to meet the world, they need loads of light. Come summer they’ll be blowing the roof off your mouth.

seed in each cell of your tray and lightly cover with around a half-centimetre of compost. Next, water the tray very gently, either using a fine rose or a spray bottle. Make sure the compost in each cell is moist but not sodden.

STEP TWOLight is not a factor in germination but heat and moisture definitely are. Germination can take up to six weeks depending on the variety, although most seeds germinate in the first two weeks. Electrically heated propagators help and start at about £10 from the larger DIY stores for a basic tray with heat. If you want more precise control over the heat, use one with a thermostat but these will obviously cost a bit more.

If you haven’t got a heated propagator, cover your seed tray with cling film, which will hold the heat in and keep the humidity up; then place in an airing cupboard, on top of a boiler or somewhere near a radiator.

STEP THREEKeep a regular check on your tray because as soon as the seedlings are up they will need maximum exposure to light to stop them going straggly and getting weak. You should

also gently spray them again with water if the compost looks like it is drying out.

As before, the aim is make sure that your compost does not dry out so

keep your growing medium moist but not sodden.

STEP FOURWhen your fledgling chilli

plant has developed its second set of leaves it is time to re-pot it … but

I’ll tell you all about that in the next instalment of my chilli growing guide!

It can take three to six weeks for the plant’s second set of leaves to appear, depending on how much light it is exposed to after germination.

‘Any variety of chilli can be grown at home’

Craig recommends the following seed suppliers:

Dartmoor Chilli Farm (dartmoorchillifarm.com)

and Simpson’s Seeds. (simpsons

seeds.co.uk)

SEED SUPPLIERS

It’s easier than you think, says Craig McKnight, and the start of the year is the best time to begin


54 Enjoy great food Leicestershire & Rutland

Four years ago, Gordon Ramsay was in Arfan ‘Raz’ Razak’s kitchen, yelling expletives. “Not a day goes by

even now without someone mentioning Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” says Raz, head chef and owner at Nottingham’s Curry Lounge. “We agreed to appear on the show mainly for PR reasons and it’s worked massively for us. It still does. Only the other evening a couple from Belgium walked in, saying, ‘This is Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant’. It turns out that they’d watched a recording of the programme the night before.”

The Curry Lounge’s nightmares – if there were any in the first place – are history now. This large, sophisticated restaurant, situated in the heart of Nottingham, serves exceptionally good curries in a comfortable

Great Food visits Nottingham’s Curry Lounge to find out why an ex-Kitchen Nightmares chef is cooking for 700 Royal Marines

FOOD PEOPLE

Curry Commando

LOCAL CHEF

‘Raz’s roots are in Pakistan: his extended family lives in Kashmir – he visits regularly, topping up his curry knowledge while there’

despite the sophisticated layout, the food here is created using traditional, home-style Indian and Pakistani cooking techniques. “I’m a self-taught chef,” says Raz, “although in fact a lot of what I do was originally taught by mum. As kids we were all shown how to cook. I remember making dinner at home in West Bridgford, aged seven.”

Raz’s roots are in Pakistan. His extended family live in Mirpur, Azad Kashmir, including an uncle who’s a senior judge and an aunt who’s a doctor. Raz visits regularly, topping up his curry knowledge while there.

For some time, Raz’s career was miles away from its current path. Following his family’s tradition of high achievement, he studied medicine before working as a sales director at Pfizer. “Looking back, medicine and sales were never things I really wanted to do – I always wanted to be a chef,” says Raz. “But in Pakistan – unlike India – a chef isn’t an especially respected profession.”

A big moment came in 2005 when Raz missed his third daughter’s birth because he was at a sales conference. “That upset me and made up my mind to get out. At the time I just wanted to

environment. Raz – like his mentor Gordon – is a fantastic cook with a deep knowledge of curries. Also like Mr Ramsay, he is passionate about what he does and knows his mind.

The Curry Lounge’s interior is a symphony of smooth, dark wood, leather chairs and water features. But


Inside Nottingham’s palatial Curry Lounge.

Chicken Karahi base sauce.

In the kitchen.

The TV game{ }“When Gordon’s crew came to research

the restaurant for Kitchen Nightmares,

we made sure we made mistakes.”

Enjoy great food Leicestershire & Rutland 55

The Curry Lounge

be a chef but after looking into it decided to set up my own restaurant.”

Raz opened the Curry Lounge in 2007 on the site of the old Co-op. He’s never been busier, running the restaurant day to day, teaching cookery classes every fortnight and researching the possibility of launching a curry kit.

Supporting MarinesTwo years ago Raz experienced something that would change his outlook. “A chap used to come into the Curry Lounge a lot. He was in his early 30s and never said what he did. He booked his stag do here. A few weeks later his mum called to cancel, explaining that Steve was a Royal Marine and had passed away as a result of his injuries in Afghanistan. My heart sank.” Raz attended the funeral and spoke with several injured Marines.

Ever since, Raz has supported Commando Spirit, a Marines charity. He’s cooked curry for 700 soldiers at 40 Commando in Taunton and is training to abseil from St Pancras Station.

It goes without saying that the chaps at 40 Commando are over the moon to have discovered their own personal curry chef.

Shah Jahan chicken Serves 2-3

* 100 ml veg oil & knob of butter

* 300ml water

* 2 onions, finely chopped

* 1/2 tsp coriander seeds

* 1/2 tsp ginger and garlic, finely chopped

* 8 almonds, blanched and split into halves

* 5 tbsp of yoghurt

* 1 tbsp pistachio nuts, coarsely ground

* 4 tbsp of coconut milk

* 1/2 tsp chilli powder

* 500g boneless chicken or turkey, cubed

* 2 tbsp fresh cream

* 2in block fresh ginger, cut into juliennes

* 1/2 tsp turmeric

* 4 tbsp fresh coriander & 2 mint leaves, finely chopped

* 1/2 tsp white pepper

* 2 green chillies, finely chopped & half red pepper, cubed

“This is an excellent feel-good curry,” says Raz. “The Moghul Emperor Shah Jahah is said to have requested this curry in the mid 16th century – legend has it that it was the final dish he ate in the Taj Mahal.”

1 Heat the oil in a pan. Fry the onions with the coriander seeds until onions are translucent. 2 Add the chopped ginger, garlic, turmeric, chilli powder and 150ml water and stir into a paste until sauce begins to boil, then stir in the yoghurt. 3 Add the coconut milk, stir and cook until the oil separates from the paste.

4 Put in the chicken or turkey pieces and fry for five minutes. 5 Add the juliennes of ginger, coriander, mint, water and salt and pepper to taste. 6 Cover and cook over a low heat for around 10 minutes. Add the almonds, pistachio and raisins. Continue cooking until the chicken is ready. 7 Add the cream and white pepper and stir.

8 Add a knob of butter, the green chillies and red pepper. Stir well. Finally, garnish with coriander and serve with naan bread or fresh green vegetables.

‘Raz’s roots are in Pakistan: his extended family lives in Kashmir – he visits regularly, topping up his curry knowledge while there’

1 Use water to keep your curry base sauce moist. “We don’t use a

lot of oil at the Curry Lounge. Instead we use water, which evaporates but leaves the flavour behind. It’s healthier too.”

2 Use a heavy, flat-bottomed pan when cooking curry, otherwise

the high heat needed can create hot spots and burn your ingredients.

3 Let your meat rest for half an

hour before cooking. “Meat shrinks when cold, so letting it get up to room temperature before cooking makes sense.”

4 Cook the onions and spices right down before adding meat. “It

takes longer that you think to let those flavours develop.”

RAZ’S HOME COOKING TIPS


CONTACTThe Curry Lounge, 110 Parliament Street, Nottingham NG1 6LN www.currylounge.co.uk 0115 9418844

PRESERVING


Not-!-me"o# yello#Mustard – not a major part of

most people’s lives, I suppose, but once you start

delving into its history, a fascinating picture unfolds. Our English word mustard derives from the Anglo-Norman ‘mustarde’ and the old French word ‘mostarde’. However, it is likely that the Romans were the first to use the ground seeds mixed with unfermented grape juice or ‘must’, to make ‘burning must’ or ‘mustum ardens’ in Latin. I think we can see the origins of mustard here.

The earliest recipe known is from a Roman recipe book dated to around the 4th or 5th century. Interestingly the ingredients are ground mustard

Mustard musings, by Rosemary Jameson

Rosemary Jameson is a mustard, jam and pickle fanatic. She runs preserving workshops at her cottage – Jam on the Hill – near Oakham, founded the Guild of Jam Makers and owns kit retailer jamjarshop.com. Rosemary is behind the Great British Mustard Bash (p13)

seed, pepper, caraway, lovage, coriander seed, dill, celery, thyme, oregano, onion, honey, vinegar, fish stock and oil – used as a glaze for spit-roasted boar. It sounds absolutely delicious! By the 10th century the Romans had exported their knowledge as far as France, and the monks of St Germain des Pres in Paris began making mustard professionally. By the 13th century Dijon was becoming the centre of excellence for French mustard as it is still known today. It is still regarded by some as the mustard capital of the world.

In Britain, the town of Tewkesbury in Gloucestershire became famous for mustard production, which remains

the case today. The good burghers of Tewkesbury mixed ground seed, flour and cinnamon with a little wine, rolled the resulting paste into balls and set them to dry. Once dried, the mustard balls could be stored or carried when travelling and easily crumbled to be mixed with wine or vinegar, ready for use. Tewkesbury supplied these mustard balls all over the country and they were even mentioned by William Shakespeare in his play, Henry IV, Part 2.

Today, many varieties of mustard are made all over the world. There are hundreds of recipes and delicious mustard is extremely easy to make at home – go on, give it a try!

Don’t forget the Marmalade AwardsHeld at Dalemain House, Penrith, February 25-26, the World Marmalade Awards will be fun for all the family. I’ll be there, making marmalade – come and have a go! See marmaladeawards.co.uk. Also, the Great British Mustard Bash is coming to Scalford Hall, Leicestershire, on March 11 – hope to see you there, too!

Rosemary’s tipsWhen you have made your mustard, don’t just put it into a ham sandwich - try stirring it through mashed potato for a tangy treat. Mix plum jam with grain mustard as a glaze for gammon, use a couple of teaspoonsful in vinaigrette dressing, mix with mayonnaise to improve an avocado, stir into gravy for roast beef. What makes your mustard magic?

Wholegrain mustard with beer* 200g yellow mustard seeds

* 200g black mustard seeds

* 177ml cider vinegar

* 1 tbsp sea salt

* 1 bottle Everards Tiger beer

* 6 tbsp runny honey – organic, preferably local

* 1 tbsp freshly grated nutmeg

Clove spiced mustard* 75g yellow mustard seeds

* 50g soft brown sugar

* 1 tsp salt

* 1 tsp black peppercorns

* 1 tsp whole cloves

* 1 tsp ground turmeric

* 207ml distilled vinegar

1 Place the mustard seeds, sugar, salt, peppercorns, cloves and turmeric into a blender or food processor and blend evenly.2 Gradually add the vinegar, one tablespoon at a time, blending well between each addition. Then continue blending until you have a coarse paste.3 Leave to stand for 10-15 minutes to thicken slightly, then spoon into warm sterilised jars and seal.4 Ensure there are no air pockets in the mustard by pressing down on it with the back of a teaspoon.5 Allow to mature for two weeks before using.

1 Soak the seeds in the beer overnight.2 Next day, add all remaining ingredients and blend in small batches to the desired consistency.3 Combine all batches together and stir before potting up in 225g jars. Great care should be taken to expel air

pockets in each jar before sealing. Remove these by pressing down on the mustard with the back of a teaspoon or a round-ended knife.4 Mature for two weeks before eating.

Cloves add a distinctive tang.

Tiny yellow spheres of piquant pleasure.

A Happy New Year from everyone at Barnsdale Lodge

The Avenue, Rutland Water, Nr Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH tel: 01572 [email protected]

www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

Join us for morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. All our dishes are delicious, local and made from fresh, seasonal ingredients. We have lots of exciting events planned for 2012 including:

For bookings or more information please call, email or visit the website.

Burns NightFri 20th & Sat 21st January 2012

Cock-a-leekie soup | Haggis, neeps & tatties | Steak & Ale pie | Cranachan | Coffee

***Jiggin’ tae the Ceilidh Band

Special accommodation rate for Burns Night £70 B&B double room

Booking now!

£25 per person

Award Winning Pub

12 St Pauls Street, Stamford, PE9 2BE Tel: 01780 [email protected] www.tobienorris.com

A charming building with 7 unique rooms over 3 floors

and a large enclosed patio We have 5 real ales including our own White Hart Ale and an expansive wine list that we import ourselves from around the world. We specialise in stone baked,handmade pizzas, plus a wide range of other dishes.

‘Where potions stir emotions’

5 Churchgate Mews, Loughborough, LE11 1TZ

Truffl e making parties/hen parties £20 per person

T: 01509 238113E: [email protected]: www.chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

Chocolate making workshops

for 2 people £70


HELEN TARVER


The Foodie Gift Hunter

Helen Tarver says Brussels to masochistic New Year’s resolutions and suggests a few you might actually enjoy

Resolve smarter

Farrington’s Mellow Yellow Cold Pressed Rapeseed OilOn the theme of buying local, it’s amazing how many food products have fabulous British alternatives. Rapeseed oil is gaining ground on olive oil among the chef fraternity and Farrington’s is one of the Heart of England’s largest producers, working from seed to bottle. Deliciously subtle and nutty, you can use this anywhere you’d normally drizzle olive oil – and beyond. And you know that you are supporting a great British product. Rapeseed oil is also recognised for its health benefits, and is the oil of choice at Champneys Springs near Ashby De La Zouch. CONTACT: www.farrington-oils.co.uk FROM £4.50

Seville OrangesIf there is one bright spot in the dark days of January then for me it’s the arrival of Seville oranges. They have a short season but it’s worth making the most of it. There are lots of things you can do with the Seville but if you want to carry the sunshine through into other months then you need to get into marmalade making. If you’ve not done it before then it’s worth having a look at the marmalade classes run by Rosemary Jameson at Jam Jar Shop (p44). Taking place throughout January and February, these will teach you everything you need to know about preserving. CONTACT: www.jamjarshop.com FROM: £85

IT’S BETTER FOR your wallet, which has to be a good thing, and better for the planet – also good. Don’t do this by eating more, just cook and shop for what you really need and stop being tempted by buy one get one frees that you don’t really need. And get a stockpot. And use it.

Waste less food

IT’S NOT TRICKY, you’ll know exactly what’s in it and there is no better smell to wake up to than your own freshly baked loaves. Need some inspiration? Take a course.

Bake your own bread

MANY STUDIES SHOW that when we spend money with local businesses it circulates in the local economy for much longer than if you spend with the big boys. With so many great independent food producers, delis and farm shops in the Heart of England, why wouldn’t you want to exercise that kind of choice?

Buy better, buy local

DON’T GO FOR all six at once. Do one. Then maybe add another. Then another. Before you know it the spring will be here, the sun will be back

and maybe, just maybe, you’ll feel like salad.

Don’t be hard on yourself, either

TWO BIRDS WITH one stone. Support a local business. Eat more fruit and veg. The joy of a veg box is never quite knowing what will arrive, though in February you may need to get to like cabbage. A lot.

Get a local veg box

YOU KNOW THAT jar of chestnut puree you’ve been meaning to use? Don’t waste it, swap it! You never know what you might get in return.

Have a pantry swap

PASS ON THE skills and the passion for food.

Cook with your kids

So, all that’s left of New Year’s Eve is the hangover. That, and a nagging sense of despondency brought on by the spectre of

New Year resolutions. To me, the worst of all is the January diet. Closely followed by the January diet bore. There can be no worse time of year to deny yourself the pleasures of the table. Who wants a salad, even an interesting one, when it’s only just

above zero and we hardly see daylight? How much better, and easier, would it be to go for lighter eating in say May, when days are getting longer and the weather warmer?

So why not forget making those kinds of resolutions, which are likely to be out of the window by January 17? What about resolutions you could have a crack at keeping...

Vale of Belvoir-based Helen Tarver, aka The Foodie Gift Hunter, blogs almost daily on her website: www.thefoodiegifthunter.co.uk. She’s @presentsqueen on Twitter

GREAT FOOD FOR THE YEAR AHEAD

The William CecilSt Martins, Stamford. PE9 2LJE: [email protected]

01780 750070www.thewilliamcecil.co.uk

at StamfordTHE WILLIAM CECIL

New Year! New You!

01780 750070


HOME COOKING


Lucy CufflinChef Lucy is author of cookbook Lucy’s Food and runs a deli in Leicester’s Stoneygate. She has also launched a cooking club – email [email protected]

W e’ve been making oven-cooked paella during our cookery demos at our Leicester shop, Lucy’s Food. It’s a fun dish and can contain anything

from leftovers to exotic seafood. This foolproof recipe will lighten the post-Christmas dark-night blues. For a special paella, use high-quality fish stock (all you Leicester readers note there’s a new fishmonger called Brady’s on Allandale Road that sells delicious home-made stock). The seafood for mine was supplied by LB Hunt at Leicester fish market.

Chase away the dark nights with a spicy taste of sunny Spain

You can buy great fresh stock these days but you could use a fish or chicken stock cube in its place. Paella spice mixes are used in the best Spanish restaurants, so don’t feel they are second best. My shop Lucy’s Food sells ready mixed paella spices but you could make your own: for four people mix 1 tbsp mild paprika, 1 tsp turmeric or a pinch of saffron, cayenne pepper to taste and a little lemon juice.

Lucy’s paella hints

Paella party!

* Mix of fresh fish and seafood (judge amount visually)

* 1/2 large onion, sliced

* 3 tbsp robust Spanish olive oil

* 100-150g chorizo sausage (choose your favourite)

* 300g paella rice (bomba rice is traditional but you can use risotto rice)

* 1 litre fish or chicken stock

* 1 sachet paella spices (see hints below)

* 2 cloves garlic, finely grated (grating is the fastest way to flavour a dish evenly)

* 4 handfuls frozen peas/frozen soya/edamame beans/ peeled broad beans or asparagus tips

* Zest and juice of 1 lemon (wonderfully aromatic finale)

Paella Serves 3-4

1

1Pre-heat oven to Gas 4. In an oven-proof pan, fry onions and chorizo.

2

2 Add the paella (or risotto) rice and grated garlic; stir well.

3

3Sprinkle in those fantastic paella spices and give it another good stir.

4

4 Add three-quarters of boiling stock; throw in peas and lemon juice.

5

5Now place your pan into the oven for 10 minutes and while it’s in,

prepare your seafood.

6

6 After 10 minutes, remove from oven, stir well for a few minutes

and add more stock if required.

7

7 After stirring well, add raw seafood and fish. Pour in more

liquid if needed. Return dish to the oven and continue cooking.

8

8 Remove when fish and seafood is cooked (about 10 minutes). Add

chopped parsley and lemon zest (not traditional but adds zing).

PH

OTO

S: S

AM

RA

FTER

The Confident Cook is Leicestershire-based Samantha Scott and her new mobile cookery school. Rather than going to a cooking class, Samantha comes to you. And she teaches

according to your needs, whether you want to create healthy menus for the children or produce five-course fine dining menus for your other half.

Before launching The Confident Cook, Samantha worked as a tour caterer, so she might also be able to share tales of the time she cooked mung bean stew for Ozzy Osborne. www.confident-cook.co.uk

* 4 x 225g cod fillet pieces

* 500g new potatoes

* 1 medium red onion

* 95g chopped sundried tomatoes

* 1 lime

* Black olive tapenade

* Green pesto

* Olive oil

* Salt & black pepper

* Fresh basil for garnish

Serves 4

The Confident Cook’s roasted cod with crushed new potatoes and black olive tapenade

1 Pre-heat oven to Gas Mark 4 (180˚C). 2 Peel the new potatoes and place them in a medium saucepan – bring to the boil and simmer for around 20 minutes. 3 Place the cod fillets on a lined baking tray. Cut the lime into four wedges and squeeze the juice of a wedge over each piece of fish. Season each fillet with salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil. Place in the oven for 15 minutes.4 Chop the red onion in half and slice thinly to make half-moon shapes and gently fry in two tablespoons of olive oil. Make sure they don’t go too brown. This may take up to 10 minutes. Add the chopped sundried tomatoes and turn off the heat. Leave to one side.

5 Take four dessertspoons of pesto and place in a medium-sized bowl. Add enough olive oil to make the pesto slightly runny. 6 Once cooked, drain the potatoes and crush in a large bowl. Ensure there is plenty of texture. Add a small knob of butter, the onions and chopped tomatoes. Mix well. 7 Place a portion of the potato mix onto the centre of the serving plate and drizzle the pesto around it. Take the cod out of the oven and sit it on top of the crushed potato. Drizzle the rest of the pesto dressing around the edge of the plate.8 Add a teaspoon of black olive tapenade onto the cod and decorate with a large basil leaf. Enjoy with a glass of dry white.

Recipe


Chateau du Vieux Parc La Selection Blanc

Grapes: Vermentino, ViognierFlavour: This white from

Corbières in the south of France has it all: its rich, savoury,

mineral qualities will partner the tapenade and the light,

fruit flavours will flatter the cod. Price: £12.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BLOW IT!

Domaine Fontareche Pays D’OcGrapes: Vermentino, Colombard

Flavour: This white from the Languedoc will work well with the

light cod and robust tapenade. Zesty flavours of green apple

and grapefruit will perfectly partner the fish, while tangy,

mineral notes will go with the olive. Price: £7.99

DUNCAN MURRAY’S

WINE TIP

BUDGET

GREAT FOOD ON THE

INTERNET

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

CHECK OUT OUR ONLINE EVENTS DIARY

TWITTER:@GREAT

FOOD MAG

Go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk for restaurant reviews, blogs, local food news and events

Visit the website to stay in touch with the magazine between

issues and to see exclusive content,

including our series of First World War recipes


HOME TO JIMMY’S

SMOKEHOUSE. SMOKERS AND

CURERS OF MEAT AND FISH

SSSS

MMM7 COMFORTABLE ROOMS

• Family run business• Professional 3D Design and Planning service• Full installation service or supply only• Extensions, building alterations - project managed

Flooring also avaliable.

Food business


1Back to BritishThis theme has touched every deli, supermarket and pub in

some way. Royal wedding fever got the ball rolling and since then, brands from boutique to mass market have incorporated an element of Britishness in their products and packaging. We’ve seen Union Jacks appear on products such as Hovis bread and Long Clawson Blue Stilton. In a recent poll, 53% of customers said they tried to buy British where possible and brands have responded – for instance Happy Eggs, based in Lincoln, promoted the fact that its eggs are all sourced from “selected British farms”.

2 Real LocalThis trend was about using the power of local

provenance to engage customers. It was bang on and is set to continue in 2012. Last year, the Red Lion in Stathern,

Helen Benton reflects on the past year’s food trends and predicts what’ll be hot in 2012

T his time last year I predicted 2011’s food trends. Which took off,

which are set to stay for 2012 and which new trends are likely to appear? Of my five top predictions for 2011, three have been particularly prevalent: ‘Back to British’, ‘The Real Local’ and ‘Home Cooking and Entertaining’.

Retro revivalCelebrating heritage and nostalgia is going to be on the menu for 2012. McDonald’s has started the trend with its 1950s glass giveaway. Restaurants could take advantage by adding old family recipes to their menus, and brands by sharing stories of the historical origins of their products.

Flirting with flavoursSome intriguing flavours are becoming popular in the US, and they could well provide inspiration for our taste buds, too. How about grilled-cheese infused vodka, which has hit the bars of San Francisco? This may be a little extreme but appetiser ingredients could easily inspire new cocktails.Comfort foods with a twist are hot for 2012, so how about customising your chips with a hint of local Stilton, for example? Fir and eucalyptus flavours are on the hot list this winter, and expect to see more wholegrains and healthy ingredient alternatives such as quinoa to suit diet-conscious eaters.

Leicestershire, and the Olive Branch at Clipsham, Rutland, got this right: they publish a map on their menus showing the location of each of their suppliers. The King’s Arms in Wing, Rutland has just launched a website that uses a similar device.

Experts have predicted that the local trend is set to continue. Producers can gain from not only labelling ingredients as locally sourced, but also by sharing stories about the particular farm that they came from.

3 Home cookingThe past year has seen this theme become even

stronger. Leicestershire lady Holly Bell was runner up in the Great British Bake Off and has since set up a recipe website and is running baking classes (www.recipesfromanormalmum.com).

Virtuous Bread is a new concept where a network of people around the world run their own home baking businesses. Rosie Clark is the Midlands’ very own ‘Bread Angel’, baking and selling loaves to many businesses locally. She is working closely with Everards brewery to do this. Virtuous Bread has a great website that celebrates everything to do with bread-baking, offering recipes and tips.

The year aheadIn 2012, the above three

trends are set to continue. But what new themes are coming up?

The British is Best theme was big for the food industry in

2011 and looks set to continue.

Above top: Leicestershire’s Great British Baker, Holly Bell. Above: The Red Lion at Stathern shouts about its local sourcing.

Labelling eggs as ‘British’ boosts sales

Helen Benton specialises in business and brand strategy, innovation and communication planning. Contact her if you think she could help grow your business – www.hownowmarketing.com or 07900 212204

THE INSIDER

In with the old, in with the new

Napton on the Hill in Warwickshire is a quintessentially English village. It has a vibrant rural

community, with every resident seeming to know each other. This walk takes in Napton, plus two canal systems, a windmill, a medieval church, a large country house – Shuckburgh Hall – and, of course, a number of friendly pubs.

One thing that strikes you about this route is that the vistas stretch as far as the Malverns. The canals also make an impression – the water system is

There are lots of gates, kissing gates and gates merged with footbridges on this walk. The word gate will be used in the singular in most cases.

1START AT THE church car park in Napton. Walk to the right around the wall, then left

behind the church and along a track. Go past a gate sign – ‘Church Leyes Farm’ – on your left, and continue past a T-junction, also on your left. Walk straight ahead on a metal road. You will see a windmill and the wartime viewing area on your right.

2Walk towards the windmill and at the gate turn right and walk alongside a tall hedge on your

left. Continue through the next gate and ahead, taking care along the side of a ridge and down a steep hill to a stile. Continue downhill, bearing left and passing some massive stones, and on down to a road.

3TURN RIGHT AND continue to a bridge. Cross over and turn right down a steep ramp,

through a gate and turn left onto the towpath. Continue to bridge no. 111.Napton Bridge Inn is on your left.

4YOU NOW SEE Napton Marina on your right. Continue along the towpath to Napton

junction and go up the incline and over the bridge. Turn left and bear right and take a sharp right again under the bridge. On the opposite bank you will see a signpost. You are going to follow the Warwick sign. You have now left the Oxford Canal and are walking along the Grand Union canal. Continue to Calcutt Locks and marina.

5BESIDE THE second lock gate is a signpost pointing right. Continue along the path to a

gate, turn left and follow the hedge to a gate in the corner of the field. Walk through and turn right, following the hedge to a gate. Go straight on to the next gate and continue ahead.

6YOU WILL GRADUALLY join a track. Go through the gate at the side of the cattle grid.

Ord

nanc

e Su

rvey

map

ping

© C

row

n co

pyri

ght.

AM

44/

10.

Napton on the Hill, Shuckburgh and a steady flow of pubsA seven-and-a-half mile circuit to help burn off – or add to – December’s excess

The walk

Coventry BlitzNear St Lawrence’s Church in Napton on the Hill is a vantage

point from where observers watched the terrible scene of the Coventry Blitz unfold, and the numerous dog fights that took

place overhead. }

important to the area and Napton Locks are an impressive sight – one of the most photographed scenes in the UK. Walking along the canal tow path is almost a social event, with people passing on narrow boats, making every effort to be friendly.

Arriving at the Shuckburgh estate adds a new dimension to the adventure. The Shuckburgh hills are beautiful and it’s possible to scramble up Cannon Bank to see the beautifully preserved cannons on display. It was here that Oliver Cromwell watched the battle at Edge Hill. Nearby is the Shuckburgh family church.

After walking through the deer park, you’ll make your way slowly back towards Napton, where you can enjoy a well-earned calorific reward in The Folly.

OVERVIEW OF AREA

Napton locks and the Oxford canal.


PUB WALK

Continue along the track. Ahead, you will see before you a hill, known locally as Cannon Bank. Continue past a T-junction on your right and bear left but now leave the track and follow the hedge on your left. Go over a stile and start to look for a black and white iron footbridge behind the house on your right. Continue to the next stile and then bear right to cross the footbridge.

7CONTINUE AHEAD to a gate and pass Shuckburgh Church on your left. Cross the A425 to

a path and continue bearing left across a field to two gates below Park Farm. After going through the second gate, strike up the hill going past the way mark and eventually downhill to a gate.

8CONTINUE UP the hill to the beacon. Go through the gate and ahead to another gate

and then straight on, with the wood on your right. At the end of the wood turn right over a stile. If you look behind, you will see the Shuckburgh family church showing above the trees.

9CONTINUE AHEAD to a short track, which soon bears right, but

walk straight ahead to the brow of the hill and then through a gap following the track to a gate and stile. Continue along the edge of

Shuckburgh church.

Ord

nanc

e Su

rvey

map

ping

© C

row

n co

pyri

ght.

AM

44/

10. If you want to eat after your

walk then you could do worse than the Folly pub, which is beside the iconic Napton Bridge on the Oxford Canal. To get there, drive towards the centre of Napton along Vicarage Road, which soon becomes High Street. Go past the post office and you soon see Folly Lane on the right. The Folly is at the end of Folly Lane and is a traditional country pub. Our village insider tells us that it is very welcoming to walkers, children and dogs.

Food – served 12-2.30pm and 6pm-9pm Monday to Saturday, and 12-4pm on Sundays – is fresh and simple. Choose from the likes of lamb shank and gravy, home-cooked ham, egg and chips, and – you’d better have done the whole walk if you choose this – steak and cheese pie.

As you’d expect in a classic village local, there are real ales on tap and there’s a cosy woodfired range and an inglenook fireplace to warm your cockles on winter days.

All sorts of antiquities hang from the walls, from ancient milk churns to old hats, and there’s even an antique gramophone. Furniture consists of simple wood tables, chairs and pews, which sit on quarry tiles.

The Folly hasn’t been mucked about and is all the better for that. Let us know if you manage that steak and cheese pie!The Folly, Folly Lane, Napton, Warwickshire CV47 8NZ, 01926 815185

the wood on your right to another gate and stile, and turn immediately right down to a stile and footbridge.

10TURN LEFT AND continue ahead to a stile and metalled track. Continue and turn left

through a gate and immediately right through another small gate. Turn right and head diagonally across to a third gate in front of a telegraph pole. Go straight ahead to a fourth gate and forward to a fifth gate and footbridge. Cross the field to yet another gate and down a slope to, yep, another gate. Walk diagonally across a field to an eighth gate and over a bridge.

11TURN RIGHT ONTO the road and immediately left through a gate. Walk to the lake side and

then take a path to the right, within a few yards bearing right again through a gap and then diagonally left to a gate in the corner. Cross the road to a gate, go over a bridge and walk directly left to another bridge and gate.

12FOLLOW THE PATH ahead through a first and then a second gate and cross over the

lane and go through a third gate. Walk straight up the hill towards Napton and eventually you will see a gate beside a house on your left at the top of the field. You may now wish to visit the Crown Inn on your left. Cross Vicarage Road to the footpath and you will see a white notice board. Continue along the path up the hill and back to the church car park.

NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are clear and accurate. Take a map – OS Explorer 222 – and allow enough time.

Detailed walk map PUB

WALK

Stick ‘em up.

The Folly


Napton on the Hill and Shuckburgh

For the lavender creamPour the cream into a pan and add the lavender, sugar and gellan gum (if using), and bring slowly to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then chill. Pass the mixture through a sieve and pour into a bowl. Whip the cooled cream with a whisk until the mixture reaches ribbon stage and then return to the fridge.

For the honeycombMix the honey and glucose with 100ml of water in a pan and cook over a medium heat for about 10 minutes until caramel in colour. Remove from the heat, add the bicarbonate of soda and mix. Tip out onto a silicone mat or baking parchment, leave to cool and then break into small pieces.

For the chocolate fillingPour the cream into a pan. Add the butter and bring slowly to the boil. Remove from the heat. Put the chocolate into a glass bowl, then pour the warm cream over it and stir until the chocolate has melted. Leave to cool and then chill in the fridge.

For the lavender & honeycomb cones1 Preheat the oven to Gas 4 (180°C). Whisk the egg white in a bowl until soft peaks have formed. Fold in the butter, icing sugar, flour and cocoa powder and mix to a smooth paste. Chill in the fridge for about 20 minutes until firm. 2 Draw two 10cm equilateral triangles with one side curved to look like a cone on some baking parchment. Spread the chilled paste within the lines of the cone shapes and cook for about six minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and, while still hot, wrap around cone moulds to form two cones. Leave to cool. 3 To assemble the cones, pour one tablespoon of the chilled chocolate filling into

the base of each cone and reserve the remaining filling for the lollipops. Fill the cones halfway up with the lavender cream. Sprinkle some honeycomb over and then fill with the remaining lavender cream. Sprinkle over more honeycomb and place in the freezer.

For the chocolate ice cream1 Pour the cream into a pan and slowly bring to the boil. Remove from the heat. Mix the egg yolks, sugar and cocoa powder together in a bowl. Pour the hot cream over the egg mix, stirring continuously, then add the chocolate and stir the egg mix until the chocolate has melted.2 Pass the mixture through a sieve and into a clean pan; cook over a low heat until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Leave to cool, then churn in an ice-cream machine until it sets.3 For each portion of chocolate ice cream, half fill a lollipop mould with the reserved chocolate filling and freeze. When it is solid, remove it from its mould, half fill the mould once again, but this time with the chocolate ice cream, and push the frozen chocolate filling into the centre. Return to the freezer and leave to set.

For the chocolate & peanut coating1 Preheat the oven to Gas 4 (180°C). Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Spread the peanuts out on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for five minutes. Remove from oven, leave to cool and chop into fine pieces.2 Remove the frozen ice-cream lollipops from their moulds and dip in the melted chocolate to

cover. Roll in the chopped roasted peanuts to cover the whole lollipop and return to the freezer.3 To serve, blitz the remaining honeycomb in a blender to a fine powder to resemble sand and form the base of the dish. Stick the cones and lollipops into the sand.

This is the intricate dessert that Dameon Clarke, chef patron at Stamford’s Assiette, cooked to wow judges on ITV’s Britain’s Best Dish in December. Dameon, cooking on the show against Hans Schweitzer from Cambridge’s Cotto restaurant, was inspired to create this by childhood holidays. Assiette’s chef used all the skills learnt under Michel Roux Jr. at Le Gavroche in London and at Tetsuya’s, Sydney, and won plaudits for his technical ability. He was pipped by a brilliant pudding from Hans on the day but Dameon’s Seaside Favourites is hard to beat for originality and sheer Britishness.

Dameon Clarke’s Seaside Favourites

Serves 2For the lavender cream

* 200ml double cream

* Bunch cooking lavender

* 25g caster sugar

* 1g gellan gum (optional)

For the honeycomb

* 100g runny honey

* 25ml liquid glucose

* tsp bicarbonate of soda

For the chocolate filling


* 1 tsp salted butter

* 100g dark chocolate (67% cocoa solids), broken into pieces

For the lavender and honeycomb cones

* 1 egg white

* 25g butter, melted

* 25g icing sugar

* 25g plain flour

* 1 tsp cocoa powder

For the chocolate ice cream


* 3 egg yolks

* 15g caster sugar

* 50g cocoa powder

* 20g dark chocolate (67% cocoa solids), broken into pieces

For the chocolate and peanut coating

* 50g dark chocolate (67% cocoa solids)

* 10g salted peanuts

A taster heaven{ }Great Food recently tried Dameon Clarke’s taster menu at Assiette. It was memorable. A highlight

included beef fillet carpaccio with deep-fried

truffle ice cream


RECIPE

GET THE BOOKDameon’s recipe is included in Britain’s Best Dish: The Chefs, published by The Good Food Guide, to accompany the television series. The book is available for around £15 at book shops or online at www.thegoodfoodguide.co.uk/shop

Dameon Clarke’s

Assiette is part of Great Food Club: www.greatfood

club.co.uk

EAT & DRINKYour guide to local pubs, farm shops, delis and more

Wh!" to

Nottingham

BakewellMatlock

Ashbourne

Derby

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Rugby

Warwick Northampton

KetteringMarket Harboro Corby Oundle

Stilton

Peterboro’

Stamford

Leicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

Notts

Derbyshire

StaffsLeics

Warwicks

SelihullNorthants

Beds

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

Welbeck

JT BEEDHAM Sherwood

P72

THE PEACOCKRowsley

P57

DOG & HEDGEHOG Dadlington

P58

BARNSDALE LODGE

Exton

P64


WHERE TO EAT

LOCAL RESTAURANT

NEWSWhat’s simmering, stewing and

steeping at some great local venues. By Tim Burke


Artist‘s impression of Lincoln‘s Electric Bar.

KAYAL AND INDIGO After Jamie Oliver’s visit to Paddy’s Marten Inn, more celebrity chefs have been seeking inspiration from Leicester’s Indian restaurants. The Hairy Bikers visited Keralan restaurant Kayal for a masterclass in making idli and masala dosa. The restaurant was featured in the Bikers’ Best of British programme on December 16. Channel 4’s River Cottage featured Hugh Fearnley- Whittingstall also learning dosa skills, this time from chefs at Leicester’s vegetarian restaurant, Indigo. The programme saw Hugh help prepare dosas at a wedding feast for 750 at Leicester’s De Montfort Hall. Kayal, 153 Granby St, Leicester LE1 6FE, 0116 2554667, kayalrestaurant.com Indigo, 432 Melton Rd, Leicester LE4 7SN, 0116 2611000, indigos.co.uk

THE ELECTRIC BAR AND RESTAURANT, LINCOLNLincolnshire diners have been eagerly awaiting the opening of this restaurant in the Lincoln Hilton. Behind the stove is Alex Maxfield, who learnt his trade at The Fat Duck in Bray and Hambleton Hall. Before the official opening on December 21, Maxfield helped fuel the buzz by hosting a two-day pop-up restaurant at Lincoln College. On

the Electric menu are the likes of fillet of local beef with braised shin, parsley risotto and

crisp fried bone marrow.The Electric Bar and Restaurant, Brayford Wharf North, Lincoln LN1 1YW, 01522 668870, electricbarandrestaurant.co.uk

MPW STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLMarco Pierre White has opened his latest restaurant on the 25th floor of Birmingham’s Hotel Indigo at the city’s landmark Cube development (pictured). The MPW Steakhouse and Grill boasts 360-degree views of the city and an al fresco balcony. Steaks such as 16oz T-bone are from 28-day aged beef and come with chips fried in dripping, beef tomato and onion rings. Head chef is Matt Osborne, previously of Baraset Barn in

Stratford upon Avon and Nuthurst Grange, Solihull. MPW Steakhouse, 200 Wharfside St, The Cube, Birmingham B1 1PR, 0121 6343433, mpwsteakhouse birmingham.co.uk

THE COD’S SCALLOPSPart of the new breed of gourmet

fish and chip restaurants is the retro-styled Cod’s Scallops in Wollaton, Nottingham. The venue combines takeaway, eat-in restaurant and wet fish counter. There are daily deliveries from east coast ports. The restaurant is the latest

initiative of Moleface, the outfit behind four Nottingham gastro pubs including The Larwood and Voce at Trent Bridge, and The Wollaton. The Cod’s Scallops, 170 Bramcote Lane, Nottingham NG8 2QP, 0115 9854107, codsscallops.com

Where to eat

Local restaurant news is sponsored by Great Food Club

THE LORD NELSONClosely modelled on the success of sister establishment The Tobie Norris in Stamford, Lincolnshire, new pub The Lord Nelson is housed in what used to be Nick’s restaurant in Oakham’s Market Place. The Lord Nelson combines a relaxed pub environment – no reservations, order at the bar – with high quality food including stonebaked pizzas and Mediterranean classics.The Lord Nelson, Market Place, Oakham LE15 6DT, 01572 868340, thelordnelsonoakham.com

THE GATE New on Leicester’s lively Braunstone Gate is The Gate Bistro. Chef/director Adam Lynch presides over a menu that includes seafood or Spanish ‘grazing boards’, 28-day matured Herefordshire steaks and bistro specials such as pork tenderloin wrapped in sage leaves and Serrano ham. Daily-changing specials boards are also promised. From Friday to Sunday, breakfasts are available from 9am including full English, poached eggs benedict or smoked salmon and scrambled egg for around a fiver. The Gate, 32-36 Braunstone Gate, Leicester LE3 5LG, 0116 2559993, thegatebistro.co.uk

The Gate.

Birmingham's Cube building.

Hairy Bikers at Leicester's Kayal.

SPECIALITIES: Fine dining; local foodFOOD TIMES: Fine dining – 7-9pm (Tue-Sat); bar menu – 12-2pm (Mon-Sun) and 6.30-9pm (Mon-Sat); 7-8.30pm (Sun)

The charming 17th century Peacock at Rowsley, Derbyshire is the perfect place

for a food lovers’ weekend getaway. It’s in a great spot for exploring the Peak District, oozes country style and serves seriously good food, having just been awarded a third AA Rosette for its fine dining menu. It’s the sort of hotel where, from the moment you walk through the door, you lose yourself in comfort, great service and the unique ambience of a 360-year-old building.

The writer was lucky enough to spend his wedding night here in 2004 and visited again in February 2010. One of the highlights on both occasions was a first-class English breakfast, followed by a beautiful walk to

CONTACTThe Peacock at Rowsley, Bakewell Rd, Rowsley, Matlock, Debyshire DE4 2EB 01629 733518, thepeacockatrowsley.com

Sample menu (à la carte)

StartersCeleriac soup with crispy quails’

eggs and truffle toast Duck liver ballotine, smoked eel,

pickled red cabbage purée, raisins Mains

Fillet of beef, glazed shin, crispy ox tongue, smoked ratte potato purée,

watercress, vegetable risotto Monkfish with poached oyster,

broccoli and Parmesan

DessertDark chocolate tart, peanut parfait,

salted caramel ice cream £55.50 for three courses

Dining room at The Peacock.

The Peacock at RowsleyFine dining and country comfort in historic surroundings

Bakewell through Manners Wood (the hotel will supply you with walk directions). Chatsworth House and Haddon Hall – the latter of which is owned by The Peacock’s custodian, Lord Edward Manners – are also within striking distance.

The hotel’s cosy bar – complete with open fire, of course – is another jewel in this venue’s crown. Here you can really kick back, surrounded by ancient stone walls and wood beams, and there can be few places in England where a glass of single malt in front of a roaring fire feels as appropriate, or as pleasant.

Feasting your eyes on the menu from the comfort of the bar is recommended, before

FOOD AT THE PEACOCK

The Peacock takes great pride in its food and drink. Head chef Dan Smith runs the show and has created a superb fine-dining à la carte menu (hence the three AA stars). Local suppliers are used where possible and include EW Coates Butchers of Two Dales, Matlock, LW Hancock Butchers of Stoney Middleton, Peak District Dairies and Country Fresh Foods of Sheffield. The more laid-back bar menu comprises dishes such as venison bourguignonne and haddock in beer batter.

being led to the dining room. The Peacock takes a formal approach to its fine dining experience – expect

white gloves and silver salvers – but you can remain in the bar if you wish.

The 16 bedrooms are as well-appointed as you’d expect for an historic, luxury hotel.

The Peacock used to be both a farmhouse and the Dower House for Haddon Hall, becoming an inn in 1828. The peacock that sits above the front porch (a peacock is part of the Manners’ family crest) was carved in the 19th century by the same chap who carved Rowsley’s village fountain. This is not a hotel short on history.

Prices start at £175 per night for a standard double room, including three-course dinner.

The Peacock was built in 1652 and is surrounded by beautiful Peak District countryside.

MOUSEMAN FURNITUREThe Peacock’s chairs were crafted by furniture maker Robert ‘Mousey’ Thompson and carry his mouse carving.

‘You can really kick back in the bar, surrounded by ancient stone walls’

Rural retreats


LOCAL PUBS

Martin‘s Arms, Colston BassettCUISINE: Modern BritishPRICE PER HEAD: £35-£50 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: In restaurant only but no highchairs are available DOGS: NoCAR PARKING: Car park to the sideFOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 12-2pm and 6-10pm; Sunday: 12-2.30pm

Nestled in a picturesque corner of the beautiful Vale of Belvoir is a real gem.

The Martin’s Arms at Colston Bassett is not only a fine dining pub and restaurant but a haven of good taste and tranquility. It has top-end prices, but offers top quality too.

We visited mid-week for a quiet bar meal before Christmas and settled at one of the oak tables in front of a roaring fire. The décor is traditional and comfortable: squashy banquet seating, feather cushions, hunting paintings and a Jacobean fireplace festooned with food trophies, including its latest gong – Nottinghamshire Dining Pub of the Year 2012.

The copper-topped bar is incredibly well stocked and if you are a real ale drinker then there are many treats to behold: Woodforde’s Wherry, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, Greene King IPA or perhaps a pint of Black Dog. A

distinguished range of whiskies and brandies plus an extensive wine list are also on offer.

The service from Spanish maître d’ Silvio was just the right mix of attentive and friendly. To kick off we chose mushroom mousse with winter root crisps, which was fresh, light, and clean on the palate, and my husband had a pretty chicken and globe artichoke terrine.

Since a couple of dishes on the menu were not available, Silvio offered us a fillet steak with mushrooms and the most perfectly cooked chips I have tasted. My husband opted for a very rich and manly braised blade of beef, which kept him quiet until the plate was clean. On Silvio’s advice we didn’t order any sides and, to be fair, he was right!

To finish, we decided to share a light and fluffy cheesecake with a pear and mulled wine sauce, which if I am honest was a little too heavy as an accompaniment and drowned the

delicacy of the cheesecake – but a wondrous cheese board made up for it completely. The decadent selection of English and French cheeses, home-made chutney and crackers plus another bottle of excellent house red polished off a wonderful pre-Christmas treat. By the time we had tucked all that away, it was 11.30pm. The fire had died but the atmosphere was still roaring. We shall return. Rachel Dorsett

Dog & Hedgehog, DadlingtonCUISINE: Traditional BritishPRICE PER HEAD: £25-£35 (for three courses and drinks)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: YesCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Large car park to rear of pubFOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 12-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm; Sun: 12-2.30pm

On a wintry Sunday afternoon we ventured to west Leicestershire – almost

Warwickshire – having heard the words “dog and hedgehog” mentioned favourably in passing, and the pub‘s unique name sticking in the mind like Christmas pudding to the ribs. Being late and disorganised we were happy to find that the large, ivy clad pub situated on the green in the hamlet of Dadlington served Sunday lunch until 3.30pm.

On arrival we received a warm welcome and were impressed throughout by the friendliness of the staff. Three local ales were available, including Dadlington Hamlet by Quartz Brewing, Staffordshire, and Webb Ellis from Rugby‘s Wood Farm Brewery. Slightly less pleasing was the 1950‘s American rock and roll being played loudly through tinny speakers, but one man‘s musical nirvana is another man‘s breaking point.

Menu samplesSTARTERS

Cod cakes £5.45 Baked brie in filo parcel £5.45

MAINS12oz sirloin steak from Frank Parker Butchers with fries,

tomatoes and mushrooms £17.95Homemade Pie of the Day £9.95

Sunday roast with all the trimmings £11.95

DESSERTSticky toffee pudding £4.95

Sparkenhoe Farm (Market Bosworth) cheese platter £5.95

This isn‘t a small, cosy country pub with lots of crannies in which to hide, but a large, bright, warm, practical space, well equipped for big groups. There were at least three sizeable family gatherings taking place amid the bustling atmosphere as we ate, and the pub makes a point of putting no pressure on anyone to give up their tables.

Also impressively sized were the portions. Our Sunday roasts arrived quickly and were enormous. The quality of ingredients was good, with beef from Frank Parker Butchers of Nuneaton, pork from nearby Gosling Farm, and free range chicken from GE Tomlinson‘s farm shop, Stoke Golding. Some like huge

piles of food and equate this with good value, but I prefer to be able to walk comfortably after clearing my plate.

The Dog and Hedgehog does not offer a fine dining experience but doesn‘t claim to. It has an impressive local sourcing policy and is a solid place for families and friends of all ages to get together. The food is plentiful and you‘ll be met with a smile. The beer‘s not bad, either. Matt Wright



Soup of the Day with Martin‘s Arms bread £5.50

Smoked salmon roulade, chive crème fraiche and crouton £7.95

MAINSBraised blade of beef, bourguignon flavours, salt-baked celeriac £17

Venison pie, savoy cabbage, mashed potatoes, gravy £17.50

DESSERTBaked rice pudding, plum jam,

ginger bread £5.50

THE MARTIN'S ARMS School Lane, Colston Bassett, Notts NG12 3FD 01949 81361, themartinsarms.co.uk

THE DOG AND HEDGEHOG 2 The Green, Dadlington, Leicestershire, 01455 213151

Frank’s Steakhouse, NorthamptonCUISINE: Locally-sourced steaksPRICE PER HEAD: £23-£28 (for three courses excluding wine)KIDS WELCOME: YesDOGS: NoCUSTOMER CAR PARKING: On-streetFOOD TIMES: Tues to Sat: 11-2.30pm and 6.30-10pm; Sun: 12-4pm

Northampton had been missing a good steakhouse. It now has Frank’s on

Wellingborough Road, where you can enjoy steaks sourced locally from renowned Leicestershire butcher Joseph Morris of South Kilworth. We were lucky enough to be invited to the opening night and what great tasters we had. But what’s so special, I hear you ask? Well, the steaks are cooked over charcoal in a big Josper oven, which is basically an indoor BBQ that creates a lovely unique flavour, with the high temperatures keeping the meat moist.

We booked a table and returned a few weeks later. We decided to avoid starters, which included Brixworth paté and beetroot cured salmon, as we wanted to save room for the main event. The girls chose sirloin steaks while I went for a T-Bone and we selected sides including creamy leeks (lovely), garlic mushrooms and a mixed salad. The steaks


Classic prawn cocktail £5Brixworth chicken liver paté with

toasted brioche £6 MAINS

Rump steak (280g) £12Fillet steak (220g) £18.50Cote steak (450g) £19.50

Haloumi Salad £10All steaks are cooked over

charcoal and served with a choice of potato and pepper, Stilton, or

herb butter sauces.

are reasonably priced and come with a choice of potato dishes and a sauce.

Beef can be difficult to prepare well but we had no problems with our choices: each was perfect and we all agreed that they were the best steaks we had eaten – they really were that good. The twice-cooked chips were lovely, too: soft and floury on the inside and crunchy on the outside.

With the mains dispatched we decided to sample the puds, choosing lemon posset,

chocolate bread and butter pudding, and chocolate and chilli cake. Again these were reasonably priced and thoroughly enjoyed.

We had a fantastic night: the food was delicious, the staff were polite and the table arrangements look great. My sister Helen booked a table of 10 for a work night out and it went extremely well with rave reviews from everyone. We will definitely be back. Andy Hunting

Reviews

FRANK’S STEAKHOUSE176 Wellingborough Road, Northampton NN1 4DZ, 01604 949804, frankssteakhouse.co.uk

Tel: 01664 444737

www.kingsarms-scalford.co.uk41 Halford Street, Leicester LE1 1TR - Tel: 0116 251 1889

www.chutneyivy.com

Business Lunches

Stylish Bar and Late Lounge

Venue Hire Available

Open Plan Kitchen

Elegant Dining Room

Pre & Post Theatre Menu

Reduced NCP Parking Rates

“contemporary dining space, combined with traditional Indian hospitality”

‘at the heart of Leicester’s Cultural Quarter’

Valentines Day bookings now being taken

JOIN THE CLUB FOR JUST Eat the best local food, support local producers and save cash

Join at www.greatfoodclub.co.uk60 Great Food Magazine

Alternatively call 01664 853341 with your card detailsor fill out the form on p23 and send a cheque

JOIN, EAT, SAVEGreatfoodclub.co.uk showcases high-quality independent

local restaurants, producers and delis, and saves you money when you shop or eat with them. When you join you receive a personalised Great Food Club card that you can use to claim the offers, which are all listed and updated

regularly at www.greatfoodclub.co.uk

HOW DO I JOIN?Go to www.greatfoodclub.co.uk and click ‘join now’ to pay by credit or debit card. Joining for £17.50 means

you’ll receive Great Food magazine for one year (six issues delivered to your door) as well as get your

personalised Great Food Club membership card.

UP TO

25% OFF

AT MANY

PLACES

View all offers at

www.greatfoodclub.

co.uk

JOIN THE CLUB FOR JUST £17.50 Eat the best local food, support local producers and save cash


Assiette: 15% off lunch Hambleton Hall: free room upgrade for club membersThe Olive Branch: 20% off a stay at Beech HouseJam Jar Shop: 10% off jam kitBoboli: 25% off lunch

A FEW LATEST OFFERS:

and many more...

Hambleton Hall’s Whissendine veal, which club members could enjoy along with a room upgrade.

Save 10% on Tori & Ben’s delicious Longhorn beef.

Tori & Ben’s Farm: 10% off locally raised Longhorn beefThe Old Barn: 20% off dinnerFosse Meadows: 10% off poultry Firenze: 25% off lunch

20% OFF

A STAY AT

THE OLIVE

BRANCH

2 FOR 1

AT THE

CURRY

LOUNGE

15% OFF

FOOD AT

THE KING’S

ARMS

“Where shall we eat out tonight?” is a question that can cause serious chin stroking. This map is designed to cut that out. It’s not a random selection – it has been chosen by listening to reader recommendations and, of course, by visiting as

many venues as possible ourselves. Great Food Club eateries, where members can use their cards to take advantage of exclusive offers, are marked by blue panels. To tell us about a restaurant that should be on the map, email [email protected]

Re!aurant ma"1 Albero

Northampton NN1 3DEalbero-restaurant.co.uk01604 400800

2 AssietteStamford PE9 2BE

greatfoodclub.co.uk01780 489071

3 Barnsdale LodgeOakham LE15 8AH


4 The Bay TreeMelbourne DE73 8HW

baytreerestaurant.com01332 863 358

5 Beckworth EmporiumMears Ashby NN6 0DL

beckworthemporium.com01604 812371

6 The Berkeley ArmsWymondham LE14 2AG

theberkeleyarms.co.uk01572 787587

7 BoboliKibworth Harcourt

LE8 0NQ, greatfoodclub.co.uk 0116 2793303

8 The Boot RoomLeicester LE1 5JN

thebootroomeaterie.co.uk0116 2622555

9 Brownlow ArmsHough on the Hill NG32 2AZ

thebrownlowarms.com01400 250234

10 ByzantiumKings Heath, Birmingham

B14 7SA 0121 4445444byzantiumtapas.co.uk

11 Chequers InnWoolsthorpe by Belvoir

NG32 1LU, chequersinn.net01476 870701

12 The Cholmeley ArmsBurton Coggles NG33 4JP

theeastonestate.co.uk01476 550225

13 Chutney IvyLeicester LE1 1TR

chutneyivy.com0116 2511889

14 The Crown InnOld Dalby LE14 3LF

thecrownolddalby.co.uk 01664 823134

15 Curry LoungeNottingham NG1 6LF


16 The DialBurton upon Trent

DE14 1BN, thedial.uk.com01283 544644

17 EntropyLeicester LE3 0RB


18 The FalconFotheringhay PE8 5HZ

thefalcon-inn.co.uk01832 226254

19 FirenzeKibworth Beauchamp

LE8 0LN, greatfoodclub.co.uk0116 2796260

20 Fischer’s at Baslow HallBaslow DE45 1RR

fischers-baslowhall.co.uk01246 583259

21 Fox Inn & La Table d’YvesThorpe Satchville

LE14 2DQ tabledyves.co.uk01664 840257

22 Hambleton HallHambleton LE15 8TH


23 Hammer & PincersWymeswold LE12 6ST


24 Hart’sNottingham NG1 6GN

hartsnottingham.co.uk0115 9881900

25 Hotel MaiyangoLeicester LE1 4LD

maiyango.com 0116 2518898

26 Jackson StopsStretton LE15 7RA

greatfoodclub.co.uk 01780 410237

27 Jim’s YardStamford PE9 1PL

jimsyard.biz01780 756080

28 The JoinersBruntingthorpe LE17 5QH

thejoinersarms.co.uk 0116 2478258

29 KababishMoseley B13 8EH

kababish.co.uk0121 4495556

30 The King’s ArmsWing LE15 8SE


31 The King’s HeadWadenhoe PE8 5ST

wadenhoekingshead.co.uk 01832 720024

32 Kilworth House HotelNorth Kilworth LE17 6JE

kilworthhouse.co.uk01858 880058

33 Lake IsleUppingham LE15 9PZ


34 Langar HallLangar Village NG13 9HG

langarhall.com, 01949 860559

35 Marquess of ExeterLyddington LE15 9LT

marquessexeter.co.uk01572 822477

36 Mallory CourtLeamington Spa

CV33 9QB, mallory.co.uk, 01926 330214

37 MansionDerby DE1 2SN

mansionderby.com01332 343665

38 Martin’s ArmsColston Bassett NG12 3FD

themartinsarms.co.uk01949 81361

39 Nevill ArmsMedbourne LE16 8EE

thenevillarms.net, 01858 565288

40 Northfield FarmCold Overton LE7 3DB

northfieldfarm.com01664 474271

41 The Old Barn InnGlooston LE16 7ST


42 The Olive BranchClipsham LE15 7SH


43 Oundle MillOundle PE8 5PB

oundlemill.co.uk, 01832 272621

44 The PheasantKeyston PE28 0RE

thepheasant-keyston.co.uk 01832 710241

45 The PloughGreat Casterton PE9 4AA

theplough-greatcasterton.co.uk 01780 762178

46 Purnell’sBirmingham B3 2DH

purnellsrestaurant.com 0121 2129799

47 The Red LionEast Haddon NN6 8BU


48 The Red LionStathern LE14 4HS


49 Restaurant Sat BainsNottingham NG7 2SA

restaurantsatbains.com0115 9866566

50 San CarloLeicester (LE1 1DEL)

and Birmingham (B2 5BN) sancarlo.co.uk, 0116 2519332

51 SimpsonsEdgbaston B15 3DU

simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk0121 4543434

52 Snooty FoxLowick NN14 3BH

thesnootyfoxlowick.com 01832 733434

53 Stapleford ParkStapleford LE14 2EF


54 Three HorseshoesBreedon, DE73 8AN,


55 Tobie NorrisStamford PE9 2BE

tobienorris.com 01780 753800

56 Tollemache ArmsBuckminster, NG33 5SA

tollemache-arms.co.uk 01476 860477

57 TurnersHarborne B17 9NS

turnersofharborne.com 0121 4264440

58 The White HartUfford PE9 3BH

whitehartufford.co.uk01780 740250

59 The WoodhouseWoodhouse Eaves LE12

8RG thewoodhouse.co.uk01509 890318

60 World ServiceNottingham NG1 6AF

worldservicerestaurant.com0115 8475587


50

10

16

51

2957

46

20

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Solihull

Staffs

Always check opening hours before setting off

Some of the region’s best restaurants. This map is updated every issue – email your tips to [email protected]


37

56

50

31

39

43

14

58

45

24

16

59

53

55

52

54

60

25

44

12

48

47

42

49

35

36

3834

30

32

33

28

23

24 15

41

4

6

13

40

27

26

17

23

21

7

9

5

1

11

19

22

8

18

Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

CoventryRugby

Warwick

LeamingtonNorthampton

Kettering

Market Harborough Corby OundleStilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

NottsDerbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

Welbeck

Ke!Michelin starred establishments

Map by Graham Wright

Part of Great Food Club – find out more at

www.greatfoodclub.co.uk

SPECIALITIES Cooking with local ingredients, homemade honey, homemade chutneysFOOD TIMES: 12-2pm and 7pm-9.30pm, seven days a week

Working beehives and a field of Highland show cattle are the latest arrivals to

the grounds of Barnsdale Lodge, a relaxed rural hotel/restaurant just a stone’s throw from Rutland Water’s northern shore.

“The hotel used to be a farmhouse and we’re trying to bring that feel back,” says hotel manager Paul Freeman. “Soon, for breakfast you’ll be able to have honey from our apiary drizzled over homemade granola, and for lunch enjoy vegetables from the kitchen garden served with Longhorn steak.” Barnsdale Lodge works closely with Hambleton Farms, which has a shop in Oakham and a herd of Longhorn beef on Hambleton Peninsula, just two miles away.

The additions boost the rustic charm and food credentials of the 44-bedroom hotel.

CONTACTBarnsdale Lodge Hotel, The Avenue, Exton, Rutland LE15 8AH 01572 724678 barnsdalelodge.co.uk

Sample menuStarters

Barnsdale terrine – game and chicken with plum chutney and toasted

brioche, £6.25 Beef Bresaola, confit tomatoes, olives, dressed salad and shaved

parmesan, £7.50

Mains Rutland rainbow trout, deep fried

courgette matchsticks, tomato and herb gnocchi, £13.95

Roast breast of duck, celeriac mash, sautéed kale, port and elderberry

sauce, £17.50

Dessert Upside down fig pudding, £5.75

Conservatory dining room.

Barnsdale Lodge, OakhamA hotel and restaurant inspired by its farming roots

They won’t have done anything to harm its standing in the eyes of local lass and TV presenter Julia Bradbury either, who when asked to describe her perfect Sunday said it involved late lunch at Barnsdale Lodge.

Inside, there’s an interesting mix of rooms, including a bright and airy conservatory (above, main picture), a laid-back lounge bar suited to evening relaxation (above right) and a more formal dining room (below left).

Before 1989 these rooms were part of a farmhouse, which was converted into a hotel in 1989 by Thomas Noel, son of the Earl of Gainsborough. Barnsdale Lodge is part of

Exton Park and has been in Thomas’s family since 1760.

This is an individual hotel making efforts to stay true to its farming roots. A small shop at the reception desk sells the hotel kitchen’s own produce, such as marmalade and plum chutney, while there is also Spanish extra virgin olive oil

available. Paul explains: “Our financial director Charles Randall runs a farm in Spain. He makes organic olive oil and sends it back to us here: we can sell it for an excellent price and also use it in the kitchens.” Barnsdale Lodge is part of Great Food Club –see p60 or visit www.greatfoodclub.co.uk

FOOD AT BARNSDALE

Barnsdale Lodge’s head chef is Steve Conway. “There’s so much local produce on tap here,” he says. “As well as the bees, local beef and kitchen garden, we work closely with Nick Hamilton at Barnsdale Gardens, located just yards away. He grows all sorts of fruit and vegetables. Just a few weeks ago he gave us huge amounts of quince, which we turned into jelly.”

Barnsdale’s bees will soon be producing honey, while the kitchen garden supplies a variety of veg.

RESTAURANT


WINE AND BEER Ales from Oakham’s Grainstore Brewery are a constant in Barnsdale’s bar, while the wine list comprises 72 varieties.

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Restaurant

AN EXCITING LEICESTER RESTAURANTThe Boot Room is one of only a few independently owned restaurants in Leicester, situated at 27-29 Millstone Lane – a stones throw away from Highcross Leicester and the Town Hall Square.

Whether you are just popping into the restaurant for a coffee, a light snack or taking advantage of our great value fi xed price menu, you can be assured of a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere by Ian and the restaurant team.

Our philosophy “Buy quality ingredients, treat them well and let your customer enjoy the experience” has enabled The Boot Room to become one of the best restaurants in Leicester city centre.

THE BOOT ROOM EATERIE27-29 Millstone Lane, Leicester. LE1 5JN

0116 262 2555

Is Now OpenWe have 5 real ales (including White Hartand Rupert’s Wardog), a selection ofcontinental lagers and an expansive wine listthat we import ourselves from around theworld. Our speciality is stone baked,handmade pizzas with a wide choice oftoppings, anything from the traditionalto the slightly quirky! We also have arange of other dishes that are sure to delight your taste buds.

2 Not So Large pizzas, 2 toppings and a bottle of white, red or rosé house wine£19.95 Mon-Sat 6pm-7pm

1 Not So Large

pizza with

2 toppings and a

pint of selected beer

for just £9.95

Mon-Sat 6pm-7pm

11 Market Place, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 6DT t. 01572 868340 [email protected]

www.thelordnelsonoakham.com

- Call us on 0116 230 3663Blyth-Richmond | Authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority

or visit www.blyth-richmond.co.uk

30Over

years’experience

We specialise in advising investors on how to maximisetheir income potential.

There are two key factors employed in our strategies –

Achieving maximum tax effi ciency, even if you are a basic rate tax payer.

Growing both capital and income in order to overcome the effects of infl ation.

Why not visit our website and see what our clientssay about us and why we are different to other

fi nancial advisers?



Temples of taste in the Heart of England. Updated every issue in response to your feedbackOn this map we show some of the best local delis, wine shops, bakeries and more for you to visit and enjoy. Thanks to your feedback, this issue we welcome The Country Victualler of Winkburn, Nottinghamshire; Brady’s Fish Counter, Leicester; Capeling & Co of King’s Heath, Birmingham; Taste Gourmet Spice Co of Northamptonshire; and Loaf Community Bakery, Stirchley (opening soon). To recommend somewhere or someone, email [email protected]

Del! and mor" ma#29 The Garden Barn

Cotesbach LE17 4HSgardenbarn.co.uk

30 Gourmet DelisOundle PE8 4EF

gourmetdelis.co.uk

31 Hallam’sGrantham NG31 6LH

01476 591911

32 Hambleton BakeryExton LE15 8AN

greatfoodclub.co.uk

33 Hambleton Bakery Oakham LE15 6AL

34 Hambleton Bakery Oundle PE8 4AU

35 Hambleton Bakery Stamford PE9 1PL

36 Kendall’s of EarlsdonCoventry CV5 6EJ

kendallsofearlsdon.com

37 Kibworth WinesKibworth Beauchamp LE8 0HQ

kibworthwines.co.uk

38 Kitchen Garden CaféKings Heath B14 7SA

kitchengardencafe.co.uk

39 LandinsKimbolton PE28 0HB

landins.co.uk

40 The LarderCastle Ashby NN7 1LF

thelarderuk.co.uk

41 Loaf Community BakeryStirchley, Birmingham

(coming soon) loafonline.co.uk

42 Local Not Global DeliNottingham NG9 1EN

localnotglobal-deli.co.uk

43 Lucy’s FoodLeicester LE2 2BD

greatfoodclub.co.uk

44 Maiyango Deli KitchenLeicester LE1 4LD

maiyango.com

45 The Melton CheeseboardMelton Mowbray LE13 1BU

greatfoodclub.co.uk

46 No 8 DeliNottingham NG2 5LN

no8deli.co.uk

15 Chocolate AlchemyLoughborough LE11 1TZ

chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

16 Christopher James DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

17 Collyweston Community Shop

Collyweston PE9 3PWcollywestonshop.co.uk

18 Colston Bassett StoreColston Bassett NG12 3FE

colstonbassettstore.com

19 The Country VictuallerWinkburn

(online shop & phone orders)greatfoodclub.co.uk

20 The DeliKibworth Beauchamp

LE8 0HS 0116 2790077

21 Deli 53Ashby LE65 1AG

01530 415706

22 Deli at Black & BlossomAshby LE65 2FH

blackandblossom.co.uk

23 Deli FlavourLeicester LE2 2DA

deliflavour.net

24 Delilah Fine FoodsNottingham NG1 7DX

delilahfinefoods.co.uk

25 Dickinson & MorrisMelton Mowbray LE13 1NW

porkpie.co.uk

26 Duncan Murray WinesMkt Harboro LE16 7LT

greatfoodclub.co.uk

27 The Fine Food StoreStamford PE9 2DF

thefinefoodstore.com

28 The Food Hall DeliNorthampton NN1 1JW

northampton-delicatessen.co.uk

1 Alexander WinesCoventry CV5 6EE

024 76673474

2 Amphora WinesCold Overton LE15 7QF

amphora-wines.co.uk

3 Amp’s Fine WineOundle PE8 4BQ

ampsfinewines.co.uk

4 Anderson & HillBirmingham B2 5HU

andersonandhill.co.uk

5 Barrowby CakeholeBarrowby NG32 1BZ

barrowbycakehole.co.uk

6 Beckworth EmporiumMears Ashby NN6 0DL

beckworthemporium.com

7 Ben’s Wine ShopOakham LE15 6QS

greatfoodclub.co.uk

8 Boutique AromatiqueWelbeck S80 3LW

boutiquearomatique.com

9 Brady’s Seafood MarketLeicester LE2 2DA

greatfoodclub.co.uk

10 Brown & GreenDerby Garden Centre

DE21 5DB brown-and-green.co.uk

11 Deli ItaliaMelton Mowbray LE13 0PN

caffedeli-italia.co.uk

12 Cana at Bank ChambersHarbury CV33 9HW

canaimport.co.uk

13 Capeling & CoBirmingham B14 7SA

capelingandco.wordpress.com

14 The Cheese ShopNottingham NG1 2HN

cheeseshop-nottingham.co.uk

47 Northfield Farm BakeryCold Overton LE15 7QF

northfieldfarm.com

48 North’sRothley LE7 7LD

dominic-davidnorth.co.uk

49 Old Theatre DeliSouthwell NG25 0HE

theoldtheatredeli.co.uk

50 Otters Deli Oakham LE15 6EA

greatfoodclub.co.uk

51 The Malt House DeliBottesford NG13 0AH

01949 843699

52 Paxton & WhitfieldStratford CV37 6JF

paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

53 The Pickled VillageBulwick NN17 3DY

thepickledvillage.co.uk

54 Relish DeliTamworth B79 7DF

relishdeli.co.uk

55 Rutland & Derby Deli (in pub) Leicester LE1 5JN

everards.co.uk

56 Salvador DeliLeicester LE2 1TU

thesalvadordeli.co.uk

57 Simply Simon’sMarket Harboro’ LE16 7LT

simplysimons.co.uk

58 Squisito DeliMonks Kirby CV23 0RA

squisito-deli.co.uk

59 St Giles CheeseNorthampton NN1 1JF

stgilescheese.com

60 St Martin’s Tea & CoffeeLeicester LE1 5EW

stmartinscoffee.co.uk

61 Taste Gourmet Spice Co.Weldon

(online shop & markets)greatfoodclub.co.uk

62 The Tall Frog DeliNottingham NG2 6ET

thetallfrog.co.uk

63 Three Horseshoes Deli Breedon DE73 8AN

thehorseshoes.com

64 The Waltham DeliWaltham on the Wolds

LE14 4AH walthamdeli.co.uk

41

54

1338

4

52

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Solihull

Birmingham

Staffs

Not everyone featured on this map has a physical shop – some trade online. Also, always check opening hours before setting off


or! ma"

59

45

47

34

32

8

2

7

50

51

49

6

44

64

40

42

63

57

58

16

53

48

60

62

55

24 31

28

17

36

39

29

31

30

23

25

27

21

20

19

46

43

18

9

12

61

14

3533

15

3

37

1

26

22

5

10

11

56

Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

Coventry

Rugby

WarwickLeamington

Northampton

Kettering

Market Harborough Corby OundleStilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton Mowbray

Grantham

Oakham

Sleaford

Lincs

Rutland

NottsDerbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Beds

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

Mansfield

Ollerton

Welbeck

Ke#Outlets where you can buy Great Food

Cheese shop

Baker Choc maker Fishmonger

Deli Wine shop

Map painted by Graham Wright

Part of Great Food Club – see p60 and


DELI

SPECIALITIES: Freshly made breads, pastries and tarts. Seasonal produce OPENING TIMES: 10am-6pm, Mon-Sat

I t’s 10.30am and a chef in full whites comes through the door

carrying a basket of still-warm breads. This time it’s an inviting selection of sun-dried tomato, poppy seed and cheese and onion – but you might also find brioche, rye or a lovage seed loaf.

It’s a typical moment at this unusual deli, which makes more sense when viewed alongside Hotel Maiyango next door. A large

Sample menuChutneys

Including spiced celeriac; pear and date; pickled sweet cabbage

Flavoured oils Including lemon, herb and chilli

Homemade pasta Including basil, pasta and squid

ink varieties

Jams, preserves and curdsIncluding strawberry, chilli & vodka preserve; lemon curd; blackcurrant

Fruit vinegarsIncluding raspberry, tarragon

and blackberry flavours

Fresh breads Including brioche, rye and plain white

Maiyango chef Gareth Ducker enters bearing gifts.

Maiyango Kitchen Deli, LeicesterTim Burke investigates one of the region’s newest delis

proportion of the produce stocked at Leicester’s Maiyango Kitchen Deli is produced in its own kitchen at the neighbouring

restaurant. It means that it can be both responsive to customer demand and

focus exactly on what it does best.“We avoided going down the road

of lining the walls with jars of chutneys,” explains owner Aatin

Anadkat. “That’s all just dead stock. Our approach is to vary things and

replenish regularly in small amounts – you might call it limited-edition food.” The deli also wants its display to allow the beautifully packaged products “room to breathe”.

Right now the deli is not able to produce its own charcuterie or cheese, but Aatin doesn’t want to just buy it in to re-sell. “This place is about our own produce, lovingly made,” says Aatin. “That’s the joy of it. The chefs make some and when it’s gone, it’s gone. There’s less waste and that’s good business but it’s good on a moral basis too.” If some of those breads don’t sell they can be used that night in the restaurant. I’m trying not use the word “synergy” here – but it’s hard.

Having opened in the autumn of 2011, Maiyango Kitchen Deli fulfils a longheld ambition. The company felt there was a gap in the market and had been waiting for this particular bijou unit to become available. It was never just about retail, says Aatin: it’s an extension of the brand. “It’s about introducing

PROFILE

GREAT FOOD

Deli

FREE COFFEE FOR EVERY READER

Present this voucher (or whole magazine) at Maiyango’s new deli and you can claim a free cup of coffee. Deli manager Szilvia

Griffin is an experienced barista and is working on a range of coffees inspired by Maiyango’s cocktail menu. “We want to

provide something interesting and quirky,” says Maiyango proprietor Aatin

Anadkat. “This coffee offer is about encouraging people to support local,

independent businesses – that’s what’s going to get the economy moving again.”

Offer ends 5pm on Feb 29, 2012.

ourselves to people who might find the restaurant too expensive. It’s about enabling everyone to take a bit of Maiyango home.”

So while you won’t find some of the staples often found in delis there’s still an inviting array of foods. So far the bread, pretty tartlets, cupcakes and other baked goods

have proved popular. Then there are olives, hummus, sun-dried tomatoes and so on, plus those limited edition, small batch jams, chutneys and flavoured oils. In December you could find the likes of pear, apple and cardamom jam, spiced

celeriac, pear and date chutney, rosemary and garlic oil and saffron linguine. In the early autumn, a strawberry, chilli and vodka concoction did well, but despite strong demand it won’t appear

again until the strawberries return. Then there’s catering for the lunchtime

trade. The fatly-packed sandwiches also follow some of the seasonal produce being used in the restaurant – if ham hock is on the menu, it may appear in a sandwich.

CONTACTMaiyango Kitchen Deli, Highcross Street, Leicester, 0116 2518898. www.maiyango.com

Barista Szilvia Griffin.


Melton Mowbray – the home of pork pies and Stilton cheese. And now

there’s a new visitor in town – coffee. “When people hear that tons of coffee are sent out around the world from Melton it surprises them,” says Kate Jones, who runs Cherizena Coffee Beans with her husband Tom. “And the number of folk who ask whether we make pork pie flavoured coffee... well, you wouldn’t believe it!”

Cherizena, based in Wartnaby, a couple of miles from Melton, specialises in flavoured coffees – 22 different varieties to be precise.

Medium-roast Colombian Excelsior beans – a variety with a nice, nutty flavour – are marinated in flavoured oils for 24-48 hours. The beans absorb the oil – a mixture of almond oil and flavourings – and are left to dry, after which they behave just like normal beans. Before flavouring, the beans are roasted by hand in Halifax, Yorkshire – it’s all done by eye. The roaster stops when the beans reach the right shade.

Cherizena was launched 12 years ago by two local ladies – Cheri and Zena – and purchased by Kate and Tom in 2002. “The

self-employed sales agents who sell under the Cherizena banner: one is based near Lincoln, there are two in Northampton, another is in Colchester, and the last is also located in the south-east.

Cherizena also exports its flavoured beans. “Last week we were contacted by a lady who had been working in Colombia. She’s moving to Spain and wants to sell flavoured coffees there, so she came to us. We also export a lot to Germany – Germans love flavoured coffee.”

However, it’s unlikely that anyone from Munich will be ordering Cherizena’s very own Melton Mowbray blend. And before you ask – no, it hasn’t been anywhere near a pork pie, but is a mild blend tailored to the typical Midlander’s palate.

Coffee

Grinding beans before bagging up.

• FOOD FOCUS • FOO

D FOCUS • FOOD

FO

CUSC!f" bea#

Cherizena produces 22 different flavours. Below: Kate Jones.

Land ! p$k pi%, Sti&o' and ... c!f"

‘C(ombia' bea# )% m)ina*d i' fla+ured ,- . 24-48 h/0’

Melton’s Cherizena is a leading producer of flavoured coffees

“Almond Amaretto, Chocolate Orange, Irish Whiskey Cream, Caramel Fudge... you name it,” says Kate. “Christmas Coffee is our biggest seller by miles and we regularly try new ones – we trialled Toffee Apple flavour in the run up to Halloween. We sell normal coffees, too.”

Cherizena flavours its own coffee on site in Wartnaby.

founders did a bit of mail order but we thought there was more potential.” And so it has proven: Cherizena now has an online shop (cherizena.co.uk) and four sales teams who stand at events up and down the country, from Nottingham’s Christmas market to the Nantwich Show to the Beeb’s Good Food events in Birmingham. The teams are

CONTACTCherizena, The Granary, Wartnaby Estate, Wartnaby, Leics LE14 3HY, www.cherizena.co.uk, 01664 820111

Inside Cherizena’s Wartnaby flavouring and packing unit.

CHERIZENA BEANSEMPEROR BLEND: Very highly roasted Colombian and Sumatran Arabica coffees: very strong and mature.ITALIAN ROAST: Colombian Excelsior beans roasted until they just start to release the oils and colour up: medium, dark colour and smooth.ETHIOPIAN YIRGACHEFFE: A typical earthy Ethiopian bean but with an unusual yet refreshing flowery or winey aroma and good body.Kate’s tip: Grinding your own beans is best because the coffee tastes fresher.



1 Arrow Farm ShopSteetley, Worksop

S80 3DZ, arrowfarmshop.co.uk

2 Ashley Farm Shop Ashley LE16 8HG

ashleyherbfarm.co.uk

3 Attfields Farm ShopWhetstone LE8 6LD

attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

4 Becketts Farm ShopWythall B47 6AJ

beckettsfarm.co.uk

5 Berry’s Farm Shop at The Cholmeley Arms

Burton-le-Coggles NG33 4JP, theeastonestate.co.uk

6 Bluebells Farm Shop Derby DE21 7BU

bluebelldairy.co.uk

7 Chantry Farm ShopMelbourne DE73 8DD

chantryfarm.com

8 Chase Farm ShopRoughley B75 5RL

chasefarmshop.co.uk

9 Chatsworth Farm ShopBakewell DE45 1PP

chatsworth.org

10 Croot’s Farm ShopDuffield DE56 4AQ

croots.co.uk

11 Crossroads Farm Shop Eastwell LE14 4EF

12 Dovecote Farm ShopNewton NN14 1BW

dovecotefarm.co.uk

13 Doddington Hall Doddington LN6 4RU

doddingtonhall.com

Some of the region’s best farm shops, producers and butchers. If we’ve missed somewhere you love, please let us know. Updated every issueThe aim of this map is to show you some of the best sellers and producers of good local food. We can’t include everyone, so we’re featuring shops and producers you have recommended or ones we’ve tried. This issue you’ll find new farm shop Hortors of Kinoulton, plus Tori & Ben’s Farm, Diseworth; Fosse Meadows Farm, Frolesworth; Arrow Farm Shop, Worksop; Riverford at Sacrewell Farm, Peterborough; and Edible Ornamentals, Chawston. To recommend somewhere, email [email protected]

F!" sh#s & butch$5 Chellaston Butchers

11 Derby Road, Chellaston DE73 5SA, 01332 701131

6 Clarke’s of QueniboroughQueniborough LE7 3DB

clarkesqueniborough.co.uk

7 David Cox ButchersStathern LE14 4HW

www.butchercox.co.uk

8 Derek Jones Butchers51 King St, Melton

LE13 1XB, 01664 565328

9 GW DundasBreaston DE72 3DX

gwdundas.co.uk

10 Jason’s Organic ButcherCotesbach LE17 4HX

jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

11 Gamble & HollisSyston LE7 2JT

0116 2603300

12 Grasmere ButchersMarket Deeping

PE6 8DL, grasmere-farm.co.uk

13 Hambletons Fine FoodsOakham LE15 8AQ

hambletonfarms.co.uk

14 Clive LancasterBingham NG13 8BD

clivelancasterbutchers.co.uk

15 Joseph MorrisSouth Kilworth LE17 6EG

joseph-morris.co.uk

16 NelsonsStamford PE9 1PB

nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

17 Frank ParkerNuneaton CV11 5DT

frankparkerbutchers.co.uk

18 Mark PatrickBirstall LE4 4NB

markpatrickbutchers.co.uk

19 Sauls of SprattonSpratton NN6 8HH

saulsofspratton.co.uk

20 Trendall’sOundle PE8 4BQ

trendalls.com

21 WF Chapman Lutterworth LE17 4AT

wfchapman.co.uk

14 Edible OrnamentalsChawston MK44 3BL

edibleornamentals.co.uk

15 Farndon FieldsMarket Harboro’ LE16 9NP

farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

16 Flitteriss Park FarmOakham LE15 8QX

(online shop and markets)greatfoodclub.co.uk

17 Four Seasons Farm ShopSleaford NG34 8NY

fourseasonsgardencentre.co.uk

18 Fosse Meadows FarmFrolesworth LE17 5EE

(online shop and markets)greatfoodclub.co.uk

19 Gonalston Farm ShopGonalston NG14 7DR

gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

20 Harker’s Farm ShopClipston NG12 5PB

harkersfarmshop.co.uk

21 Hortors Farm ShopKinoulton NG12 3ED

hortors.co.uk

22 Malt Kiln Farm ShopStretton-Under-Fosse

CV23 0PE, maltkilnfarm shop.co.uk

23 Manor Farm ShopCatthorpe LE17 6DB

manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk

24 Mellors Farm ShopMilton NG22 0PP

mellorsfarmshop.co.uk

25 Northfield Farm ShopCold Overton LE15 7QF

northfieldfarm.com

26 Riverford at Sacrewell FarmThornhaugh PE8 6HJ

(online orders) greatfoodclub.co.uk

27 Roots at Thorpe FarmBarkby Thorpe LE7 3QE

rootsthorpefarm.co.uk

28 Saxon Farm ShopClifton-U-Dunsmore

CV23 0BB, saxonfields.co.uk

29 Scaddows Farm ShopTicknall DE73 7JP

scaddowsfarm.co.uk

30 Scotch Lodge Farm ShopEarls Barton NN6 OHQ

http://tinyurl.com/3eccbho

31 Spring Lane Farm ShopMapperley NG3 5RQ

springlanefarmshop.co.uk

32 Smiths Farm ShopChapel Brampton

NN6 8AA, smithsfarmshop.co.uk

33 Stamford Farm Shop Stamford PE9 4BB

stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

34 Stonehurst Farm ShopMountsorrel LE12 7AR

stonehurstfarm.co.uk

35 Tori & Ben’s FarmDiseworth DE74 2QQ

(markets and food shows)greatfoodclub.co.uk

36 Welbeck Farm ShopWelbeck S80 3LW

thewelbeckfarmshop.co.uk

37 Wing Hall Farm ShopWing LE15 8RY

winghall.co.uk

38 Wistow Farm ShopWistow LE8 0QF

wistow.com/rural.asp

BUTCHERS

1 W Archer & Son99 Queens Road,

Leicester LE2 1TT, 0116 2707876

2 F Bailey & Son Station Rd, Upper Broughton

LE14 3BQ, 01664 822216

3 Bates Butchers4 Church Sq, Market Harboro’

LE16 7NB, 01858 462400

4 JT Beedham & Sons Sherwood NG5 2FS,

jtbeedham.co.uk

4

8

9

Bakewell

Ashbourne

Burton

Lichfield

Birmingham

Solihull

Staffs

Not everyone featured on this map has a physical shop – some trade online and at markets. Also, always check opening hours before setting off


!s & butch"

2117

18

20

10

12

19

16

1113

14

15

8

6

4

2

2

6

7

19

17

16

22

20

23

26

21

24

2527

38

37

36

32

34

33

35

28

29

30

31

97

5

3

1

3

5

1

13

11

18

15

14

10

12

Nottingham

Matlock

Derby

CoventryRugby

Warwick

Leamington

Kettering

Market Harborough

Northampton

Corby OundleStilton

Peterboro’

StamfordLeicester

Melton

Grantham

Oakham

SleafordLincs

Rutland

Notts

Derbyshire

Leics

Warwicks

Northants

Cambs

Lincoln

Newark

MansfieldOllerton

Welbeck

Map by Graham Wright

Ke#Farm shops or producers

Butchers

Outlets where you can buy Great Food

Part of Great Food Club – see p60 and


Farm shops & butchers

Johnny Pusztai could justifiably claim to be Britain’s best butcher. The larger-than-life

Nottingham meat magician recently won Observer Food Monthly’s prestigious Producer of the Year award, and receives huge acclaim from those he supplies. Nottingham’s double Michelin star winner Sat Bains is a big fan, as is one of the city’s most famous sons, fashion designer Sir Paul Smith, who hires Johnny to barbie at his annual summer ball.

So what is it about this Hungarian immigrant’s son that makes him such a superb butcher? Great Food visited his Sherwood shop – which sits unassumingly between Bargain Booze and a Polish restaurant – to find out.

“I grew up across the road from this shop,” says Johnny. “I first worked here in 1975 – it was JT Beedham & Sons even then. I was 12 and desperate to get my foot in the door. It was the shop.”

Johnny learnt his trade under George Beedham, an ex-army major and a “bull of a man who demanded respect”. Johnny stayed at Beedham’s and took on the business in 1991. “I left briefly to work on the boning line at a slaughter house to get the money

to buy the shop, but I knew that I wanted to take on the business.” Rather than change the name, which was well known in the local community, Johnny added the prefix, “Johnny Pusztai at...”

Throughout the conversation, Johnny’s passion for butchery and his respect for the trade – and the man who built up the business – shines through. “George Beedham

Johnny Pusztai in the cold store at Beedham’s.

Over 70 varieties of sausage and an Observer food award

CONTACTJohnny Pusztai at JT Beedham, 556 Mansfield Rd, Nott’m NG5 2FS, 0115 9605901 jtbeedham.co.uk

Above left: Johnny in Observer Food Monthly. Above: Beedham’s apprentice Joel Goddard, who’s “a demon with a knife”.

Johnny Pusztai at JT Beedham, Nottingham

is the man who made this shop what it is,” he says. “I’m lucky to have been given the chance to take it on.”

But Johnny could have gone into many trades – his dad was a steel worker who came to England after the Hungarian Uprising of 1956 – so why butchery?

“I think I was drawn to food because of my heritage,” he says. “My dad’s Hungarian mates used to come round to our house. They’d buy their pork and make sausages together out in the yard. They’d have vests on, be hammered on wine, and be smoking fags, but I tell you, they’d make the most amazing sausages, not to mention goulash and pörkölt. My mates thought it was absolutely amazing.”

As Johnny talks, another Nottingham legend springs to mind: Brian Clough. Maybe it’s the accent, maybe it’s the passion for his profession and his straight-talking. “It’s a good job I own this business ‘cos I’m unemployable these days,” he says. “Do I look like I’d wear a suit, duck?”

Johnny currently buys his meat from two farmers – Roger Jackson at Hoveringham, 11 miles away, who supplies beef and lamb; and Andrew Baugh based 18 miles away at Wellow, who supplies pork. “You need rapport with your suppliers,” says Johnny. “I have to be able to phone up and say I need two pigs tomorrow. Not want. Need. Sat [Bains] will call at weird times and I have to come up with the goods. I’m 24-7. Have to be. My wife puts up with a lot.”

The secret of Johnny’s success? He’s one of the most passionate butchers you’ll meet and also one of the hardest working.

Hundreds of magnificent sausages!Johnny produces award-winning bangers and is passionate about them. “We make 70 different styles and are working on more all the time. Putting a sausage together is a science and an art – you have to get the technique right, the mixing right, and add the peppers in the right order.” Great Food recommends you try them.

LOCAL BUTCHER


Farm shop

SPECIALITIES Homemade pork pies, haslet and sausages; fresh vegetablesOPENING TIMES: Thurs 10am-5pm; Fri 9am-5pm; Sat 9am-4pm

Knobbly faggots. Hunking great homemade faggots. And storbing pies.

Chunky, irregular pork pies that the police could use to quell riots. Crossroads Farm Shop at Eastwell in the Vale of Belvoir is the sort of place that sells such items... alongside home cured bacon, ham, delicious sausages and spectacular haslet. This is traditional food at its best.

Walking into Crossroads Farm Shop is like stepping into a particularly mouthwatering episode of Edwardian Farm. The shop is housed in an ancient barn and there’s exposed stonework everywhere. It doubles up

Plenty of fresh fruit and veg are on sale.

Sausages are made on site.

Shop assistant Paul Gardener.

Alan Hewson, master of the chopping block.

Crossroads Farm Shop, Eastwell

‘It really is a delightful place to visit and feels wholesome’

TOP RAT E D

GREAT FOOD

Farm shop

Alan started out selling potatoes and eggs at the farm gate about 10 years ago and the shop has evolved organically.

Unusually, Alan and Jane keep a herd of rare Red Poll cattle, which was enlarged recently with the addition of seven heifers and four

calves from The Queen’s Sandringham estate. Crossroads Farm now has the largest herd of milking Red Polls in the country. “We love them and are passionate about keeping the breed going,” says Jane. They are dual-

purpose animals, used for both dairy and beef, which suits Alan and Jane perfectly. Much of their Red Poll milk goes to Long Clawson Dairy, where it is used to make Stilton and other cheeses, while beef from the steers is turned into fantastic produce for the shop and also sold elsewhere. Later in 2012, Jane and Alan plan to make several varieties of their own cheese, including a farmhouse cheddar, which will no doubt make their farm shop an even more delicious place to visit and add to the region’s impressive portfolio of cheesemakers.

Also on sale at Crossroads Farm Shop are homemade cakes and an award-winning pasty made from potato pastry. “It won gold at the Robin Hood Championship in Newark recently,” says Jane. “Potato pastry is 50% lower in fat than shortcrust pastry and is proving very popular.”

CONTACTCrossroads Farm Shop, Eastwell, Melton Mowbray Leics, LE14 4EF, 01949 860242

“We scour old books to find our recipes,” says Jane Hewson. “Charity shops are a goldmine for old cook books. Our cheese will be made using recipes we found in the attic.”

RECIPES

as a museum devoted to village life – on the walls are old pitchforks and ancient signs. The fresh vegetables – grown locally but not at Crossroads Farm – are on display in an antique wooden flour tub. It really is a delightful place to visit and feels thoroughly wholesome and bucolic.

The shop is run by Jane and Alan Hewson, who also farm the adjacent 100 acres. Alan’s grandfather came to the farm in the 1930s and the family has stayed here ever since.


Some of the chunkiest, tastiest pies you’ll find.

Oozing village charm with a superb butchery counter


I s it spring yet? My veg patch has been looking sad and bare for so long now that I fear it may never forgive me. I could be accused of poor

organisation, but instead I’ll claim that I lack only space and also point my finger at the heavens for supplying us with the warmest autumn on record. Had we not had an unseasonably warm October and November, my patch would have been stripped bare and refilled with broad beans, onions and peas. Instead, I left it – well, there were still tomatoes growing – and ripening – in the last week of November!

So what can we do now? One project for me, as soon as the ground softens up a little, is to dig myself another veg patch, doubling my growing space for 2012.

There are so many things I want to try that the extra space is vital.

Despite my yearning for spring and the sight of blossom on my plum tree, there’s plenty of sowing and planting to be done in January and February (and harvesting, too, if you were more prepared than me).

Here are a couple of ideas for what to plant now – both fit into the ‘quite expensive in shops’ category.

Jerusalem Artichoke(plant in late February)Not from Jerusalem and not an artichoke, these are actually related to the sunflower – and when you see them grow you’ll see why.

Although the edible bit is under the ground, the stalks and leaves grow two metres and higher!Because of this they need support from canes and strings, especially if planted somewhere with little shelter from the wind. Plant your tubers about 40cm apart, 12cm deep. If you’re arranging them in rows leave 70cm between the rows. As with potatoes, when the shoots are 30cm high build a little earth up around them. In autumn the leaves will turn yellow and brown – when this happens cut the plant down to 30cm. This acts as a marker. You can dig up your Jerusalems from November through to March as and when you want to eat them.

AsparagusAsparagus is one of those vegetables I would love to grow but shy away from. I love the taste and, once established, you’ll get up to 20 years of spears – but it’s getting there that puts me off. Growing asparagus takes commitment because it will be at least two years before you can eat any of your crop.

First, pick the right place to plant. Asparagus loves a sunny spot but needs shelter from the wind (a raised bed is suitable but a pot just won’t work). Dig a trench about 30cm wide and 20cm deep, then pour soil down the length of the trench, about four inches high, making a kind of W shape. Place your asparagus crowns (weird, alien

VEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHHo! to creat" your...

Plant in late February and harvest next winter

looking things) on the mound, about 30cm apart, then cover with 10cm of sifted soil and water. As the stems grow, add more soil to cover. By autumn the trench should be filled. Keep well watered during dry spells and resist the urge to harvest any! For the first two years the plants should be left alone to grow lots of ferny leaves. Keep the beds weeded and, in autumn, cut the stems down to 5cm stumps. When the time finally comes to eat your asparagus, wait until the spears are 10-12cm long, then cut them with a knife about 7cm below the surface and harvest no later than June, to give the plant a chance to build up energy for the following year.

Time to get planting and cooking, says Charlie Boyd PHOTOS: LAURA HARVEY

If you want to have a go at growing asparagus – and have the patience – now is

the time to get going. Charlie is going to double the size of his veg patch in 2012.

Now’s the time to plan and give your patch some TLC.

GET PLANTINGOther veg ready to plant or sow in late winter and early

spring are beetroot, broad beans, carrots, garlic, leeks, onions,

parsnips, potatoes and tomatoes.


VEG PATCH FROM SCRATCHpart fiv!Seasona" veg recipes

Curried cauliflower soupCauliflower soup is a comforting winter classic and curried cauliflower is always a side-dish highlight at any Indian restaurant worth its salt, so why not combine the two? Use whatever spice mix you prefer. There are loads of good ready-mixed ones out there, but I like to experiment and stick a load of bits in a spice/coffee grinder to see what comes out.

* 2 medium onions

* 4 cloves garlic

* 1 tsp garam masala

* 1 tsp ground cumin

* 1 large cauliflower

* 1 medium potato,

* 1 litre chicken or vegetable stock

* Handful chopped, fresh coriander

* 4 tsp curry powder (shop-bought, or homemade. I used turmeric, cumin, coriander, fenugreek, fennel, black cardamom, clove, mustard seed, coconut, cinnamon, dried red chilli and mace)

If you haven’t grown your own Jerusalem artichokes you should be able to find them at your local farmers’ market, greengrocer or supermarket. You can treat it like a potato and fry it, roast it or mash it, but I like this silky smooth puree.

1 Peel your Jerusalem artichokes and cut to a uniform size (you can put them in a bowl of water with lemon juice to stop them discolouring). Add them to a pan of boiling salted water and simmer for 10-15 minutes until tender.2 Drain and place in a food processor with the crème fraiche and about 25g of butter. Blend until smooth and return to a clean pan over a low heat. Season to taste and stir to prevent sticking.3 Rub a non-stick frying pan with a tiny splash of vegetable oil and heat until very hot – almost smoking. Add the scallops and cook on a medium-high heat for a minute each side. If you put them in the pan in a clockwise order, you’ll remember which ones went in first and therefore need to come out first.

4 Remove and keep warm on a plate.Using the same pan, lower the heat a little and

add the black pudding and butter (with a little chopped parsley if you like), turning the black pudding when crisp on the bottom (this should only take a minute or two).5 Spoon the artichoke puree

onto warmed plates and add a slice of black pudding, topped with a scallop.

Scallops with black pudding and Jerusalem artichoke pureeServes 4 as a starter

TOP TIPSalted water takes longer to boil – add your salt once the

water is boiling

1 Chop and gently fry the onion and garlic in a little oil, in a large, heavy-based saucepan.2 Add all the spices and stir for a minutes until everything is coated.3 Break cauliflower into florets and add to pan with diced potato.4 Stir for a minute and then add your hot stock.

5 Bring to boil, cover and simmer for 25 minutes or until veg is tender.6 Blend soup (with a hand blender if you have one, or transfer to a large blender) and return to the same pan.7 Bring to a simmer and season to taste. Scatter fresh, chopped coriander on top and serve in a big bowl with a big roll.

* 250g Jerusalem artichokes

* 12 medium scallops, cleaned and trimmed

* 150g black pudding, sliced

* 80g butter

* 1 tbsp crème fraiche

TOP TIPExperiment with

spice combinations until you’re happy. Then write it down!

A healthy and warming dish of spicy sustenance.

Juicy scallops go well with Jerusalems.


HAMBLETON HALL O! " #$ai%’s be&

FOOD Hambleton Hall has an award-winning restaurant and wine list. The hotel’s Michelin-starred head chef Aaron Patterson and his skilled team use the best local produce to create stunning seasonal dishes. If you want your wedding breakfast to include a spectacular dish like fillet of local beef with foie gras flavoured cabbage, caramelised shallots and red wine sauce, then Hambleton Hall is the place to come.

The wine list – named the best in Britain by the AA recently – is compiled by sommelier Dominique Baduel, who can recommend the perfect choice for your special day.

There are four rooms at Hambleton in which civil ceremonies can be held: the Study and Croquet Pavilion each seat 12, the Private Dining Room seats 20, while the Main Dining Room will cater for 40, and can be combinedwith the Private Dining Room for 64. The hotel also has 17 individually decorated bedrooms.

CONTACT: Hambleton Hall, Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8TH www.hambletonhall.com, 01572 756991

WEDDING VENUES

Aaron Patterson’s honeycomb pavé: art or pudding?

“I '!No( let’s eat”Some local wedding

venues where the food is as memorable

as the setting

This small country house hotel overlooks Rutland Water and is a wonderful setting for a dream wedding and unforgettable day. Hambleton Hall is part of the world renowned Relais & Châteaux group and one of the region’sfavourite Michelin-starred fine dining destinations. The interior is stylish and supremely comfortable, with a combination of elegant surroundings and spectacular lakeside views.

Voted one of The Independent’s top 50 UK

wedding venues, Stapleford Park country house near Melton Mowbray is an enchanting place for a reception. Its Capability Brown-landscaped grounds provide an atmospheric backdrop and there is an 18th century church – St Mary Magdalene – on site. This country house hotel also has a spa for some pre-wedding pampering.

FOOD A variety of wedding menus (and dining rooms) are available at Stapleford. In-house head chef David Ellams regularly puts on gourmet evenings here and demonstrates the standard to expect. Examples of Stapleford’s wedding dishes are roast Scottish salmon and veal en crépinette.

CONTACT: Stapleford Park, Leics, LE14 2EF, stapleford park.com, 01572 787000

HOLDENBY HOUSE H!t"i# N"thampto$h%& 'nu&

STAPLEFORD PARK C(n)* luxur*

BELVOIR CASTLE +thi# c,tl& magi#

Celebration food

Situated a few miles from Northampton, Holdenby House is a family home and the

surviving wing of a palace built in 1583 by Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth I. It’s steeped in history and Charles I was imprisoned here after his defeat. Holdenby is licensed for civil ceremonies and can hold up to 108 for a seated meal in one room, and up to 200 for evening dancing. For larger weddings, it is possible to put up a marquee in the Arches Field, to be used in conjunction with the house. Couples can organise their own wedding or leave it to the team at Holdenby.

FOOD Holdenby’s recommended caterer is family-run Portfolio Events of Lamport, Northamptonshire. Portfolio has 20 years’

wedding experience and some inventive dishes up its sleeve. One of its suggested winter dishes is orange and ginger glazed chicken with a root vegetable mash and a simple chicken jus.

CONTACT: Holdenby House, NorthamptonNN6 8DJ, www.holdenby.com, 01604 770074

It’s hard to imagine a more romantic wedding location than

Leicestershire’s Gothic-style Belvoir Castle, home to the Duke and Duchess of Rutland. Castles have stood on the spot since around 1100, with the current building constructed in the early 19th century. Belvoir can host religious or civil ceremonies in either the Guardroom, Ballroom or Rutland Family Chapel. The Rose Garden is a superb location for a sunny drinks reception.

FOOD Fiona Herbert Catering of Newark is Belvoir’s chosen caterer. “One of the reasons we work with FHC is its reputation for

using high quality local produce,” says Belvoir events manager Kate Bowles. “We provide food from the estate too – partridge during shooting season, for example.”

CONTACT: Belvoir Castle, Grantham, Leics NG32 1PE, belvoircastle.com, 01476 871002

Romance in front of

the turrets

Guinea fowl dish by Fiona Herbert Catering

Portfolio Events’ delicate elderflower champagne fruit terrine.


Stapleford’s Orangery is suitable for up to 150 guests.

WEDDING FOOD

Maiyango is a 14-bedroom boutique hotel in the heart

of Leicester. A great party venue, Moroccan-themed Maiyango will work closely with you to create a bespoke event. “We specialise in hosting intimate weddings with exceptional attention to detail,” says Maiyango wedding planner Helen Anadkat. The hotel can cater for between 10–150 people (it also has use of nearby St Martin’s House).

FOOD Maiyango is a gold medal winner in the East Midlands Excellence Awards. Inventive head chef Phillip Sharpe uses local produce to create dishes like slow-roast blade of Leicestershire beef with parsnip mash and shallot jus. Maiyango’s cocktail menu is extensive and legendary.

CONTACT: Maiyango, 13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester, LE1 4LD, 0116 2518898, maiyango.com

KILWORTH HOUSE HOTEL Vict!ia" #ulenc$

HOTEL MAIYANGO A" urba" %eat

BARNSDALE HALL HOTEL Rutland romanc$ w&' won()u* views

Kilworth House Hotel is a blend of Victorian opulence, good food and contemporary

luxury set in 38 acres of landscaped parkland. One of this former family home’s best features is its ornate Victorian Orangery (pictured), which overlooks green fields. The choice of reception venues includes said Orangery, plus the Shakespeare Room for a more intimate gathering, the Library Restaurant with its domed ceiling and chandeliers, the Staging Post (a log cabin) for something unique, and the Cellar Bar.

FOOD Bespoke menus are available and the emphasis is on locally sourced ingredients.

CONTACT: Kilworth House Hotel, Lutterworth Road, North Kilworth, Leics LE17 6JE01858 880058, www.kilworthhouse.co.uk

Barnsdale Hall Hotel is set in conservation parkland and

boasts stunning views across Rutland Water. It has a selection of areas where you can hold your wedding reception. There are also excellent outdoor facilities to hold a drinks reception or evening barbecue as the sun sets over the reservoir. Adjacent Barnsdale Spa is available for pre-wedding pampering. The hotel has a total of 66 bedrooms.

FOOD Six classic wedding menus have been put together for you to choose from. Dishes include roast loin of Grasmere Farm pork (from Market Deeping,

Lincolnshire) with sage and onion stuffing, dauphinoise potato and seasonal veg; and garlic and rosemary roast rack of lamb with olive crushed potatoes.

CONTACT: Barnsdale Hall Hotel, near Oakham, Rutland, LE15 8AB, 01572 725181, barnsdalehotel.co.uk

Inside Barnsdale’s Edith Weston Suite.

‘An ornate orangery, good food and contemporary luxury’

At Kilworth, the focus is on classic English cooking

Attention to detail is what it’s all about at Hotel Maiyango.


H O T E L & T H E A T R E

The Black BullMarket Overton, Rutland

Kev & Kristy give a warm welcomeand a fun, friendly atmosphere

Live MusicReal Ales

Cosy RoomsFine WinesGreat Food

Locally Sourced

01572 767677

www.blackbullrutland.co.uk



DREAM KITCHENEach issue we nose around a reader’s kitchen and photograph it in all its glory

High-quality Quick-Step laminate runs throughout the ground floor and sits above underfloor heating

OWNER PROFILE NAME: Collette and Bill Peace

and their two children, Kane

and Lillia.

LOCATION: Huncote,

Leicestershire.

HOUSE TYPE: Modern

detached.

OCCUPATION: Both Collette

and Bill work for Audi – in Leicester

and Derby respectively.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOSTABOUT YOUR KITCHEN?

“It’s changed the way we live,” says

Collette. “Now we have the

breakfast bar and wallmounted TV,

our kitchen has become the heart

of the home – we all enjoy being in

here, it’s such a nice space.”

Collette and Bill Peace from Huncote, Leicestershire, spent a year searching for

and planning their dream kitchen. “We were tired of our old kitchen, which was about half the size. There was a pantry where the fridge now stands [see ‘Units’ picture, below] and we wanted to open everything up.” It wasn’t until they came across Astley Kitchens – based in Broughton Astley, Leicestershire – and owner Greg Leckenby that Collette and Bill thought they’d found the right people for the job. “Greg was on our level. I knew what I wanted and he made it happen.”

Astley knocked through and extended to form the new kitchen. Building work took three and a half weeks; the kitchen two weeks.

Underfloor heating was installed and high quality laminate flooring put down. The couple chose to source their own appliances. “While on holiday in Wales we stayed in a cottage with a big range cooker and American-style fridge freezer that we fell in love with, so they were a must!”

One of the highlights of this kitchen is the clean Keller units, which conceal all appliances.

CONTACT This kitchen was fitted by Astley Kitchens of Broughton Astley, Leicestershire, 01455 286254 www.astleykitchens.co.uk

Sho! us your

UNITS Smooth, handleless cupboards from Keller, integrated appliances and plenty of disguised storage give the kitchen a very clean look.

PHOTOS: HAZEL PATERSON


LIGHTING Lights under

the cupboards and spotlights that sit flush with the ceiling ensure a bright environment even on grey days.

COLOURSNeutral tones are offset by a bright and fun yellow feature wall

COOKER This is a Rangemaster Pro 6, which retails at £1900. You feel guilty unless you’re cooking a three-course meal with it.

WORKTOPSQuartz work surfaces are extremely hardwearing and almost stainproof, so Collette can spill curry sauce and chop vegetables with abandon.


FOODSteamed broccoli with almonds and sultanasThis makes a good side dish to accompany most fish and meat. You could bulk it up with couscous or brown rice for a healthy one-dish supper. It’s particularly enjoyable with slow-roast lamb.

* Broccoli (one head)

* Handful of blanched, whole almonds or almond flakes

* Handful sultanas

* Lemon juice

* Rapeseed or olive oil

* Handful chopped, flat leaf parsley

* Salt & black pepper to taste

1 Steam the broccoli until it’s just tender – make sure it still has a little bite. Make a

simple dressing with the lemon juice, oil, and salt and pepper.

2 Once the broccoli is ready, toss everything together, scatter with

parsley and serve warm.

DRINKAlmond milkOf all the dairy alternatives, almond milk is one of the most palatable and a doddle to make. It’s clearly great for anyone allergic to dairy but it’s also low in natural sugars. So, if you’re counting your carbs after Christmas feasting, why not give it a go?

* 2 cups almonds

* 6 cups water (preferably mineral)

Put all the ingredients in a blender and blitz until the mix becomes quite brown. You could drink the milk at this point but for a clean and smooth finish, strain through a double layer of muslin or nylon mesh until the liquid is extracted and the remaining pulp quite dry. Squeeze in a little honey if you prefer it sweeter. Almond milk is fabulous in porridge.

GET ONLINE

For blogs, news and more, visit greatfoodmag

co.uk

ALMONDS ARE FOREVERNew year left you feeling nutty? Then it’s time for almond therapy, says Shelly Preston

Shelly Preston (pictured right) is founder of Boutique Aromatique, a brand specialising in fine fragrant chocolates that has an outlet within Welbeck Farm Shop near Worksop – www.boutiquearomatique.com and @BAromatique on Twitter

Th! Practica" Pantr#W elcome to the Practical Pantry.

Each month I explore how seemingly simple, seasonal

ingredients can mean more to us than just food on our plates, and how they can transform a meal, our mood, and our overall wellbeing.

Why do January and February feel so very looooong? Our summer holiday seems an age away and while a lucky few jet out to far-off places, we’re stuck in the middle of winter craving sunshine while

bemoaning cold, dark nights and our festive bulge. It’s time to take control.

Almonds are much more than a low-calorie, mood-boosting super food. As well as producing a precious essential oil, they provide us with one of the most absorbent, skin softening carrier oils nature has to offer. Upping our intake of almonds can inject us with some of the highest levels of magnesium found in all of nature’s fruits, nuts and vegetables; this mineral is essential for stabilising mood and

combating feelings of fatigue and lethargy. It’s the perfect counter strike for the January blues. Let’s go!

Packed with magnesium

SNACKLet’s face it – a handful of smoked almonds is going to do us more good than a packet of smoky bacon crisps. Genuine smoked nuts are actually quite difficult to find. Check the packet; most supermarket versions are coated with a smoked ‘flavour’, weirdly Frazzle-like and unnecessarily high in salt. Some of the best hickory smoked nuts I have come across are from: www.smokednuts.co.uk

SKINSweet almond oilI could wax lyrical about the wonders of sweet almond oil all day long. It is light, odourless and especially good if you have itchy, dry skin and perfect (and perfectly safe) for stretching, itchy, pregnant bellies. Ditch your face and body moisturiser and replace with almond oil and you will soon reap the rewards. While moisturisers merely treat the very upper layers of the epidermis, oils penetrate deep into the skin and nourish from within. You’ll save a packet in the process too.

Try Tisserand for inexpensive carrier oils and useful tips on how to effect results with essential oils, for a more intense skin treatment: www.tisserand.com

Issue 11 is out on March 3

NEXT ISSUEComing up in Great Food magazine

The Guyrope Gourmet is in townCampsite cooking has never been so tasty


MAKING THE MOST OF WILD GARLIC SEASONWhere to find it and what to do with it

PLUSMust-try pubs and restaurantsThe region’s best farm shops

Manor Farm’s award-winning yogurt Bright and breezy spring recipes

Also coming up....

Who is the Guyrope Gourmet? All will be revealed next issue

Subscribe and get the next issue delivered

– p23

Spring is coming!

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE•HURRY WHILE STOCKS LAST!Follow us on Facebook and Twitter

NNEEWWWW YYYEAARR, NNNEEWWW WARDROBE

www.everards.co.uk

£4.99ONLY Reduced from £11.99!FEATUREDT-SHIRTS

A SAVING OF

£7.00!

everards.indd 2everards.indd 2 6/12/11 09:20:426/12/11 09:20:42

9. great food magazine jan/feb 2012

Documents

regions food

great food club local

great food magazine

local mutton

bbc good food

member of great food

local restaurants

great offers