AGEING WELL

24 WELLNESS FOR ALL

It used to be that a simple cream or moisturiser was all that you would need for your skincare regimen. Not anymore. At any beauty counter today, you’ll see a

mind-boggling array of skincare products promising amazing results for any skin problem you may have under the sun.

So what exactly are in those jars of concoction that promise to regain lost youth? The answer: Cosmeceuticals. At Beauty Tips (www.beautytips4you.com), the author declared, “Cosmeceuticals are the new wave in skin care… Cosmetic skincare products only serve to cleanse and beautify. As opposed to cosmetics, cosmeceuticals will alter the structure and function of the skin”.

That’s a huge claim, but what exactly is a cosmeceutical? Basically, it

Are cosmeceuticals the elixir to staying young? Or are they

just a clever marketing ploy? Allswell finds out.

a bottle ofyouth,

please

is a combination of a cosmetic and pharmaceu-tical product that contains active ingredients with claims of medicinal or drug-like benefits. Cosmeceuticals are also said to penetrate deeper into the skin, and to be more effective than cosmetics at improving skin tone, texture and radiance while reducing wrinkles at the same time, or smoothing out superficial scars, redness or brown spots.

Cosmetic companies have been churning out countless cosmeceutical products such as anti-wrinkle cream and sunscreen, and coupling these with aggressive advertising campaigns to persuade women that by

using such products, looking ageless is now possible.

Consumers spend billions of dollars each year on cosmeceutical products in the hopes of reversing the ageing process. In the United States alone, the cosmeceutical industry is expected to grow at almost double the average rate for the cosmetics sector at 5.8

per cent each year. This growth is projected to reach a value of US$8.5 billion (S$11.1 billion) in 2015, up from US$6.4 billion in 2010.

Too good to be trueSo do cosmeceuticals work? While Dr David Loh of David Loh Surgery

did you know…The term cosmeceutical was introduced 30 years ago by the late Dr Albert Kligman, a dermatologist who invented the acne medication Retin-A.

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Retinoids This vitamin A derivative is said to

combat the effects of sun damage and stimulate the production of collagen, therefore decreasing fi ne lines and wrinkles. Studies suggest that its

concentration in cosmetic formulation must be at least 0.025 per cent

for it to be effective.

Niacinamide A form of Vitamin B3 that is said

to function as an antioxidant, decrease skin hyperpigmentation,

reduce fi ne lines and wrinkles, decrease redness or blotchiness

and improve skin elasticity. A concentration between 2 per cent and 5 per cent

is said to be effective.

Kinetin A plant growth hormone

that infl uences cell growth. Kinetin concentration of between 0.01 per cent and 0.1 per cent

is said to partially improve some mild-to-moderately

photo-damaged skin, such as skin texture, fi ne wrinkles, skin colour and blotchiness, after 12 to

24 weeks of topical application.

believes that some cosmeceuticals work, he is quick to add that their benefits are quite limited. “The skin is a great barrier to anything you apply on it, and that includes the active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Very little of it actually reaches the skin cells which they are supposed to work on.”

Dr Anthony Goon, Senior Consultant Dermatologist at the National Skin Centre points out that the term 'cosmeceutical' has been coined as a ploy to convince consumers that these products are more pharmaceutical than an ordinary cosmetic. To boost their credibility, such products are usually backed by claims of clinical proof. “However, claims such as these are usually unsubstantiated and there are not enough studies to be really conclusive,” says Dr Goon.

Even the US Food and Drug Administration does not recognise the term 'cosmeceutical'. It has expressed concerns over what it considers “outrageous claims” by companies selling anti-ageing creams, which they claim have the ability to 'help prevent cell destruction' or 'boost oxygen microcirculation'.

In Singapore, cosmetics — unlike drugs — need not be assessed by the Health Sciences Authority to be effective before they are sold. But they need to be registered and meet certain safety standards before they go on sale.

For example, they cannot contain banned substances that can cause damage to vital organs such as the liver and kidneys, and preservatives such as parabens must also conform to specified limits. Parabens have been found in very low concentrations in breast cancer tumours.

As with all things that you buy, know what you are paying for, and look out for side effects, especially if you have sensitive skin. Says aesthetics doctor Dr Georgia Lee of TLC Lifestyle, “The effectiveness and safety depends on what is placed in the product and the quality of the raw materials. More does not always mean better.”

Dr Loh advises: “My first priority is to go for a trusted brand if I were to buy something over the counter. These companies spend billions on their R&D. There are too many charlatans claiming that they can do this and that.”

Adds Dr Joyce Lim of Joyce Lim Skin and Laser Clinic: “Opt for a reputable source that has scientific studies to back their claims.” But if the claim sounds too good to be true even if they are said to be backed by scientific evidence, then it probably is.

What’s in a label?Before you buy that

cosmeceutical, know the ingredients. Here are some

common ones:

Protection serviceIf you want to look good, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests that you wear suncreen during the day, choose products that contain antioxidants as these have sun-protection properties.

❂ 30SPF

At night, use products that contain retinoids, peptides, or growth factors for their repair properties.

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