a brief look at history

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1 A BRIEF LOOK AT HISTORY May 14, 2009 ² Tahir | Edit Source: Tourism Malaysia Kelantan. Compiled and edited by: Tahir The history of Malaysia is colourful, eventful and yet in spite of everything, there prevailed  peace and tranquility. History has been a good teach er. Malaysians have gained a l ot f rom i t. The experiences have brought this country to what it is today. From the age of ancient kin gdoms culminating in the fabulous 15th century Malacca Sultanate came a legacy of trade that brought people from China, India, Persia and Arabia, and from the 16th century a succession of Europeans - Portuguese, Dutch and British. Over time all the groups i ntermingled, natives and newc omers, weaving a ri ch heri tage that evolved to  become the multi-ethnic yet harmonious nation it is today. A visit to some of the historical places in the states of Malaysia tells this s tory. MELAWATI HILL in the state of SELANGOR  Melawati Hill is located in the coastal town of Kuala Selangor, a 30-minute drive from the Federal Capital Kuala L umpur. In the late 18th century, the s econd Sultan of Selangor had a fortress constructed on Melawati Hill to protect the state from intruders. The hill provided a vantage point to moni tor ships in the Straits of Malacca. Even wi th a strategic h old, the Melawati Fort yielded to the Dut ch cannons. It was again destroyed during the Selangor Civil War, when warring f actions fought for tin-rich lands. All that remains of the fort now are i ts cannons, its ori ginal foundation stones an d a fabled execution block. THE BUJANG VALLEY ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM in the state of KEDAH. Said to beone of the oldest states in the country, Kedah has a remarkable historical l egacy. It i s home to Bujang Valley, an ancient trading centre th at attracted merchants from around the world including Southeast Asia, Arabia, India and China some 1,500 years ago. Gunung Jeraii or Kedah Peak as it was formerly known was the navigational landmark that g uided vessels for landfall. Seafarers and traders used i t to sail into th e river mouth of Sungai Merbok towards Bujang Valley.

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1

A BRIEF LOOK AT HISTORY 

May 14, 2009 ² Tahir | Edit 

Source: Tourism Malaysia Kelantan. Compiled and edited by: Tahir 

The history of Malaysia is colourful, eventful and yet in spite of everything, there prevailed peace and tranquility. History has been a good teacher. Malaysians have gained a lot from it.

The experiences have brought this country to what it is today.

From the age of ancient kingdoms culminating in the fabulous 15th century Malacca Sultanatecame a legacy of trade that brought people from China, India, Persia and Arabia, and from

the 16th century a succession of Europeans - Portuguese, Dutch and British. Over timeall the groups intermingled, natives and newcomers, weaving a rich heritage that evolved to

 become the multi-ethnic yet harmonious nation it is today.

A visit to some of the historical places in the states of Malaysia tells this story.

MELAWATI HILL in the state of SELANGOR  

Melawati Hill is located in the coastal town of Kuala Selangor, a 30-minute drive from theFederal Capital Kuala Lumpur. In the late 18th century, the second Sultan of Selangor had a

fortress constructed on Melawati Hill to protect the state from intruders. The hill provided avantage point to monitor ships in the Straits of Malacca. Even with a strategic hold, the

Melawati Fort yielded to the Dutch cannons.

It was again destroyed during the Selangor Civil War, when warring factions fought for tin-richlands. All that remains of the fort now are its cannons, its original foundation stones and a

fabled execution block.

THE BUJANG VALLEY ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM in the state of KEDAH.

Said to beone of the oldest states in the country, Kedah has a remarkable historical legacy. It is

home to Bujang Valley, an ancient trading centre that attracted merchants from around the worldincluding Southeast Asia, Arabia, India and China some 1,500 years ago. Gunung Jeraii or 

Kedah Peak as it was formerly known was the navigational landmark that guided vessels for landfall. Seafarers and traders used it to sail into the river mouth of Sungai Merbok towards

Bujang Valley.

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Sprawling some 400 square km, Lembah Bujang or Bujang Valley is the richest archaeological

site in the country. At the zenith of its fame from the 3rd to the 12th century AD, LembahBujang was a vibrant trading centre in Southeast Asia. It was hailed as µ Nusantara µ or the µseat of all facilities µ and was the centre of a flourishing kingdom.

MASJID ZAHIR (ZAHIR MOSQUE) in Alor Star the capital city of Kedah. 

One of the oldest and most beautiful mosques in Malaysia, Masjid Zahir boasts a distinctivelyMoorish architecture. It has one main dome and five smaller domes which represent the five

tenets of Islam. Masjid Zahir was built in 1912 and officially opened in 1915 by the Sultan of 

Kedah.

KUALA KEDAH HISTORICAL COMPLEX in the state of Kedah. 

Situated on the Kedah riverbank, this complex is the site of an ancient fort known as Kota

Kuala Kedah or Kota Kuala Bahang. It was constructed in 1771 during the reign of Sultan

Muhammad Jiwa completed nine years later. The fort has withstood attacks by the Bugis,Achinese and Siamese. During the Japanese occupation in the country, the fort served as the

headquarters of the Japanese Armed Forces. Today, the ruins of the fort and its six cannons are

among the attractions. Kuala Kedah is about 12 km from Alor Star.

KOTA KAYANG MUSEUM in the state of  Perlis. 

Lush limestone hills surround the museum grounds where once stood the ancient InderaKayangan Fort, a palace and ceremonial hall. It was built when Perlis was under the rule of 

Kedah, during the reign of Sultan Dhiauddin Mukarram Shah (1661 ± 1687). The hills actedas a barrier against enemy attacks whereas a canal within it allowed boat passages between the

fort, Kuala Perlis and Alor Star, an ingenious ida by the sultan, whose tomb is adjacent to the

museum. Located 12 km from Kangar, the state capital, the museum is a window into the 400-year-old history of the state. It displays archaeological relics, as well as historical artifacts.

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ISLAMIC MUSEUM in Kota Bharu the capital city of Kelantan. 

In its heyday, Kelantan was hailed as the µ Annex to Mecca µ for its role in developing Islam in

the region. The state was acclaimed as a centre for Islamic learning, with renowned scholarsand teachers who came f rom various parts of the Malay archipelago. Exhibits here include the

replica of a traditional maisonette, photographs of scholars, pictures of the world¶s greatmosques, a photographic collection of Prophet Muhammad¶s personal belongings as well as

Islamic arts and crafts from China, Iran, Mecca, the Philippines and Turkey.

PANTAI KUALA PAK AMAT (PAK AMAT BEACH) near Kota Bharu, Kelantan.

This beach is a site of great historical significance, where the Japanese troops first landed to

invade British Malaya. It is said that the assault on Kuala Pak Amat Beach at 12.25 am on 8December 1941 was 1 1/2 hours before the attack on Pearl Harbour due to the difference in the

International Date Line. A fierce battle ensued and many soldiers fought valiantly till death.Today the former battlefield is a quiet, secluded beach and a nostalgic destination for war 

veterans and their families. This beach is about 12 km from Kota Bharu.

ACHEEN STREET MALAY MOSQUE in Geroge Town, Penang. 

In 1820, Syed Sheriff Tengku Syed Hussain Aidid donated a piece of land on which was built

the Acheen Street Malay Mosque, which is also known as Masjid Melayu. The interestingfeature here is a small windo halfway up the minaret. It is said to have originally been a hole

made by a cannonball fired during the 1867 µ triad riot. µ

FORT CORNWALLIS in George Town, Penang. 

The fort was built on the site of Sir Francis Light¶s historic landing in 1786. Originally a

wooden stockade, it was replaced by a concrete structure built by convicts in 1804. In housesamong other things, the famous Dutch cannon or meriam seri rambai presented to the Sultan of 

Johor by the Dutch which was brought to Penang after being looted by the Portuguese.

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LENGGONG ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM in Lenggong in the state of  Perak. 

It was the district of Lenggong where the early histoy of the Malay Peninsula began. One of the

most important pre-historic findings, the skeletal remains of the Perak Man, is housed in thismuseum. Among others, visitors will find evidence of tools made of stone used during thePaleolithic Period.

PASIR SALAK HISTORICAL COMPLEX near Ipoh the capital city of Perak. 

The complex is approximately 70 km southwest of Ipoh, the state capital. It pays tribute to theMalay worriors of the past who rebelled against the British rule and sowed the seed of 

nationalism.

LUKUT MUSEUM near Seremban the capital city of the state of Negeri Sembilan. 

Lukut a historical town is situated north of Port Dickson is the site of the Lukut Musium and

Fort. The museum gives an insight into Lukut¶s golden era as the capital of the tin trade.Visitors can discovr artefacts from the Nassau shipwreck, a Dutch East India Company

 battleship which sank of the coast of Post Dickson. Further away, the ruins of the Lukut Fort, built in 1847 to protect the town¶s booming tin trade.

KOTA GELANGGI CAVES in the state of Pahang. 

Marvel at the astonishing geological formations of this million-year-old cave system. Explore itscave chambers, once home to prehistoric communities.

BUKIT PUTERI (PRINCESS HILL) in Kuala Trengganu the capital city of the state of 

Trengganu. 

The artefacts on Bukit Puteri date back to 1831, when the ruling Sultan made it a fortress to

ward off invading enemies. The large bell there was originally used as warning from impendingattacks and later to signal the breaking of fast during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan.

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BATU BERSURAT (INSCRIPTED STONE) in Kuala Trengganu. 

Dating back to 1303 and discovered in 1887, marks the significance of Islam in Trengganu. Thehand insciptions using the Jawi script declare Islam as the official religion. The original stone is

kept at the State Museum while a replica stands in the main town circle of the state capital.

Editor¶s note: We will continue our brief look at the Malaysian history in the other states, in

my next post. Thanking you.

A RURAL COMMUNITY IN KELANTAN, MALAYA ± 

1960 

May 12, 2009 ² Tahir | Edit 

A Brief Account of Its Socio-Economic Organisation and Regional Setting. By R.E.

DOWNS, University of Illinois. An excerpt from Studies on Asia, Series 1 Volume 1

(1960)

Kelantan has been relatively isolated from the west coast of Malaya in modern times, but

formerly it seems to have had considerable contact with the outside world, thanks primarily, not

doubt, to its position on the old trade route between China, Indo-China, and the West viaSingapore, or Tumasik, as it used to be called. It is not known with certainty how longKelantan has been in existence, but it is mentioned as having been subject to both the

Sumatran empire of Srivijaya in the thirteenth century and the Javanese one of Majapahit

in the fourteenth. Moreover, many traces of Javanese influence are still evident there. It

was probably converted to Islam sometime during the fifteenth century, as was the rest of the peninsula.

Control of the state, outside of periods of interregnum when authority was split up among a

number of local rajas, seem to have shifted irregularly between Patani to the northwest andTrengganu to the southeast. There was also intermittent interference on the part of Thailand,

who claimed suzerainty over all three, and her influence was strong. In the nineteenth centuryThailand began to take a more direct interest in the administration of the state, and in 1903

appointed a British Adviser to assist her with it. Only in 1909 did control pass into the hands of the British government, at which time Kelantan became one of the Unfederated States of 

Malaya.

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The fact that Kelantan was an Unfederated State would seem to account in part for its relativelyslow economic and social development, for owing to its greater degree of autonomy, it did not

 participate fully in the changes brought about by the British administration in the Federated

States. It was isolatyed geographically as well, there having been not direct route connecting itwith the west coast until the railroad was put through in 1931. What is perhaps more importantis the fact that no mineral resources of any great consequence were found to attract capital.

Rubber planting did start early in this century, but it has never been produced on the scale that ithas been on the west coast.

This is not to say that the development of the state was completely ignored by the

administration. A network of roads was laid out, drainage was improved, efforts to increaserice production were made, public education was introduced, albeit on a very small scale, the

administration was improved, and so forth. No body was in a hurry to transform the country,however, and indeed it seems to have been the intention to maintain the basic agricultural

nature of the economy in the hope of eventually making Kelantan the rice bowl of Malaya.This policy, incidently, was doomed almost from the start, as Kelantan¶s imports of rice

exceeded her exports for the first time in 1924, and she has been unable to meet her owndemands ever since.

After the last war, with Kelantan in the new Federation of Malaya and independence promisedwithin a definite and relatively short period of time, the tempo of developmengt was greatly

increased. Not only was the government progressively µ Malayanised µ , but roads wereimproved, irrigation projects were undertaken, and other aids to agriculture intensified,

government loans were made available to individuals and communities for small-scaleenterprises and community development by the Rural Industrial Development Authority,

education was made compulsory, more English schools were established, and so on.

The postwar years have thus altered Kelantan¶s position in Malaya as a whole and haveaccelerated changes in her internal economy and structure.

WOODCARVING ± As an Art 

May 12, 2009 ² Tahir | Edit 

Wood carving plays an important role and has a great influence on the life of the people of Malaysia, in particular members of the Malay community. If we were to visit some of the

villages in the Malaysian states like Kelantan, Perak, Trengganu and Melaka, to namea few, we will find a number of Malay houses displaying in the building structure, one form

of wood carving or another. In most cases the carving will be found on doors, windows andtail ends of the roof. In some houses, we will find these on the fences, provided the fences are

of wood.

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Then when we get into the house, carvings could be seen on the wooden furniture and on thedividers placed in the hall for the purpose of dividing the areas for specific purposes.

In the east coast states like Kelantan and Trengganu, carvings are used on fishing boats. Theseare vary intricately designed.

ZUMAHIRAN BINTI KAMARUDDIN, a lecturer attached to the Department of Arts and

Design, International Islamic University Malaysia, in an abstract to a paper presented in aSeminar on Traditional Malay Woodcarving, organised by Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia

(National University of Malaysia) and Institut Alam & Tamadun Melayu Malaysia -ATMA (Institue of the Malay World & Civilisat ion). and held last year in Kelantan has this to

say:

Woodcarving is considered as an integral component to the vernacular Malay houses in Kelantanand Trengganu, which are located in the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. Carved

components with various features were fabricated according to its placement and configurationin the interior as well as exterior setting of the houses. This paper presents an analytical study of 

the visual forms and placement of carved components in the timber houses of Kelantan andTreengganu, which reflects its significant attributes and uses.

An analytical study on ten houses in Kelantan and five houses in Trengganu was conducted by visual descriptive and interpretative analyses on 15 sets of reports and carvings measured

drawings of the houses which were obtained from the Centre for the Study of Built Environment

in the Malay World at the Department of Architecture in the Universiti Teknologi Malaysia(UTM). The method of analysis was triangulated and validated with interpretations from the prominent woodcarvers on art and crafts of woodcarving, and supported by literatures of Malay

woodcarving.

The analysis revealed that several types of carved components with distinctive features includingwall, door and window ventilation panels, roof and gate panels, railings and stringers were

fitted in harmonious relationship with the architectural components within the house fabrics.The placement of these components with specific carving motif, shape, sizes and layout in the

houses reflects certain orders and regional identity of the Kelantan and Trengganu traditionalhouses.

The importance of woodcarving to the Malay community, was very pronounced in their lives.

Carving or wood carving was used in many other objects besides houses and its related features.The hilt of the kris, beetle nut boxes used by Malay families, boxes containing valuables,

 bedroom sets and many more such objects.

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ANNABEL TEH GALLOP, the Head of the South, East and Southesat Asia Section of theBritish Library in the United Kingdom, in the abstract to her paper presented at the same

Seminar stated:

The finest illuminated Qur¶an manuscripts in the whole of Islamic Southeast Asia were produced

in the states of Trengganu and Kelantan on the east coast of the Malay peninsula, and Patani insouth Thailand. East Coast Qur¶ans appear to have been exported all over the archipelago, andhave been found in collections as far as Palembang, Ambon in Maluku and Bina on the island

of Sumbawa. But the noble art form of illumination had died out completely by the middle of the last century, along with information about its patrons and practitioners, their specialized

vocabulary, sources of inspiration and the tools of their trade. This paper explores howthriving Malay art forms such as woodcarving may be able to shed lights on the lost art of 

manuscript illumination.

Wood carving is an art that is normally handed down from generation to generation. It isconsidered by some as a heritage. The art is inborn. It is a natural gift nurtured through the

ages. There are not many woodcarvers around who can depend their livelihood on this art.They have to compete with the present modern technologies. Not many families can turn this

form of art as their main means of getting a steady income. It is more of economic reasons thatthe wood carvers are a dying breed.

Sad to say, wood carving in its traditional form is now dying a slow death, unless someaggressive measures are taken by the art lovers and activists. With the appearance of modern

and sophisticated tools, the woodcarvers are facing a challenge of their life.

THE CAVES OF MALAYSIA ± Kelantan 

April 24, 2009 ² Tahir | Edit 

Source TOURISM MALAYSIA KELANTAN

Compiled by: Tahir Ramly

The caves in Malaysia are covered with mysteries and lots of history, and each with its own

legends. Archaeological researches have uncovered a lot of evidence of human habitation inthem, dating back to pre-historic times.

Most of the caves in Malaysia are of lime stone and situated quite far up from ground level. Inthe Peninsular Malaysia caves are found in Perlis - Gua Kelam, in Pahang - Gua Telinga,

in Perak - Gua Tempurung and Gua Kundu, in Trengganu in the vicinity of Lake Kenyir arefound caves of historical value, in Sarawak ± the famous Gua Niah and Gua Mulu and in

Sabah - Gua Gomantong, and of course in Kelantan.

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Kelantan can boast of its many caves, mostly found in the Ulu Kelantan areas. These caves arethe main choice destinations of the avid eco-tourists. A trip to Kelantan will never be

complete, unless these caves are visited.

In this column we give you some of the known ones in Kelantan

GUA IKAN.

There is a fairy tale story about his cave. About 1,000 years ago, a lot of fish of various types

and species could be found in this cave. Hence the name Gua Ikan meaning Fish Cave. Near the pond within the cave, is a big stone used to be a place where wedding ceremonies are

held.

GUA CHA.

Situated on the bank of the Nenggiri River in Ulu Kelantan, the Cha Cave is considered as one

of the most actively researched archeological sites in Peninsular Malaysia. Discovery of this300 square metre cave was first reported in 1936 by H.D. Noone. Several extensive researches

on the historical significance of the cave was conducted later by G. Seiveking in 1954 and againin 1979. The latest research was carried out by Haji Adi Haji Taha.

As a result of research excavations carried out, more than 30 remains of the ages of 

µHoabinhian¶ and Neolithic were discovered in the cave. Pottery designed in various shapes,

styles and sizes were found in large quantities. There were also tools buried together with thedead. Evidence of scrap of food proves that the inhabitants then not only hunted small animals but also large ones such as the oxen and wild boars.

Research findings indicate that the Cha Cave was inhabited by the Hoabinhian around 10,000years ago, followed by the Neolithics some 4,000 years later. Evidence of burnt rice found at

the upper level of the cave proved that there was a settlement there. The Temiars (the OrangAsli ± group) who live in the vicinity of the Cha Cave still use it as a stopping point.

GUA PERALING. 

Bukit Peraling Cave is at Kuala Yai, on the south bank of the Perias River, also in UluKelantan, and it is about 15 minutes walking time from the nearest village of Kampung Tohoi.

The rock shelter was discovered in the 1940¶s by H.D. Collins who recorded that it has greatarchaeological potential. William-Hunt briefly looked at the site in 1951.

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In 1994, a team from the Department of Museum and Antiquities Malaysia began excavationsunder Haji Adi Haji Taha, and they found remains of human burials, and blue Indian glass

 beads, stone implements and pottery pieces. The glass beads are similar to those found atSantubong in Sarawak. It is estimated that Peraling Cave was inhabited about 2,000 years ago.

It is a large rock shelter, with two chambers about 90 metres long in all, and running parallel to

the Perias River.

GUA BUKIT CHAWAS AND GUA BATU CHINCHIN.

These two caves are new discoveries. They were found by loggers in 1992, and first excavatgedin 1993. The findings from the excavation showed evidence of human habitation from the

Hoabinhian and Neolithic periods, as well as a pre-Islamic Kingdom in Ulu Kelantan some1,000 years ago. It was probably Buddhist and Hindu, but not Indian culture, and part of the

Srivijaya Empire (600 - 1,300 AD).

The caves are 7 km from Kuala Betis, and are situated one km apart. Bukit Chawas has 2caves: Bukit Chawas in which Berhala Kechil Cave is situated, and the smaller Berhala

Atas Cave. The initial excavations revealed Orang Asli remains of food remnants and bonetools. Further diggings uncovered traces from the Srivijaya period; ash layers are believed to

 be from the baking of votive tablets as found in various other caves, e.g in Perlis. About1,000 pieces of tablets are found in Berhala Kecil Cave, and show images of Buddha and a

Hindu god. The Neolithic artifacts consist of ceramics, polished stone tools, and foodremains such as bones and shells. Pebble and flake tools are from the Hoabinhian period.

Chawas Cave is about 23 metre long, 10 metre wide and 5 metre high. There are some paintings of a family on the roof.

In Chinchin Cave evidence was found to suppose that the cave was used as a camp site.

Pottrey and cooking utelsils were found dating back to some 2,000 - 3,00o years ago, i.e Neolithic. More recent is an Orang Asli art gallery on the walls, dating back to abour 300 -

400 years ago. These paintings are similar to those found in Sireh Cave in Sarawak. Theydepict people and animals. Haji Adi Haji Taha (1993) referred to the caves as Berhala Cave in

Cina Cave, at Gunung Biol.

GUA CHAWAN.

Chawan Cave is situated on the left bank of the Jenera River and runs parallel to the river. The

cave takes its name from a formation looking like a cup. It was excavated by BritishArcheologist Brian A.V. Peacock ub 1962 ± 63. He thought the site was a pebble tool industry

from the Hoabinhian period. He found tools and pottery.

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Following the cliff upstream there are two small rock shelters, one of which has some nicecrystalline formations. Further on is the main cave, again just a large rock shelte. The only

cave passage being a loop of about 15 metres. There are some charcoal marks about 15 metres

long on one wall, carbon dated to about 1,000 years old. It may have been from a fire used tomake the votive tablets. Probably they were made here, and used in Berhala Kechil Cave.There are a lot of large stalactites hanging down from the cliff. The rock shelter is about 100

metres long and 10 metres above the river.

GUA RENG.

This cave is a limestone outcrop which poses a striking contrast to its plain surroundings.

According to folklore, the hill was flown here from another location, following a curse.

Locals say that Reng Mountain is associated with the legend of Puteri Saadong, who purportedly made the caves as her home. Till today, the cave chambers are said to resemblethe chambers of her palace.

Reng Mountain is situated along the East-West Highway in Jeli - the highway connecting the

west coast with the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia at the north end.

Kelantan is fondly known as µ The Land of Cik Siti Wan Kembang µ , for its association

with this legendary worrior and her adopted daughter Puteri Saadong. Their legends can betraced to many other places in the state. Bukit Marak, about 20 km from Kota Bharu, was said

to be Puteri Saadong¶s dwelling place while Padang Halban is where her husband was laid to

rest. Research in and around Reng Mountai has unearthed evidence that the mountain was onceinhabited.

NOTE: Using evidence gathered from all these caves in Ulu Kelantan, archaeologists canslowly piece together the history of the area. Archaeological evidence from Thailand can also

help complete the picture, as there were no borders in those days. The caves were probablyused as shelters and campsites during the nomadic lifestyle of these ancient people. Perhaps

the Semangs have descendants from the Hoabinhian, as they have remained largely hunters andgatherers, whereas the Temiars are the descendants of the Neolithic, as they are more

agriculture-based.

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