a comparative study on egyptian carded c

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    A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON EGYPTIAN CARDED, COMBEDCOMPACT YARNS AND COMBED RING YARNS

    BY

    Prof Dr. Magdy El Messiry1, Dr. Naglaa Hosny and Eng. Ghada EsmatTextile Eng. Department, Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University, Egypt

    [email protected]

    AbstractThe compact spinning has found a wide market in the last decade. Several systems are

    introduced to produce such yarns which have better physical and mechanical properties

    than the ring spinning. All the systems for the production of compact spun yarns consist

    of a modification of the drafting system on the ring spinning machine, so that the

    spinning triangle dimensions decreases. The properties of compact spinning were

    thoroughly investigated by several researchers. The results of their studies indicated that

    compact spun yarn strength is higher by about 15% and elongation at break by about

    20%. Furthermore, the yarn hairiness becomes 70% less, and the coefficient of variation

    of the yarn was lower by 15% than that for the equivalent ring spun yarn. Compact spun

    yarns had better abrasion resistance. These advantages can reflect on the downstream

    processing. Fabric properties in terms of breaking strength, breaking elongation and tear

    strength are also better with the compact spun yarns. Clinging tendency of compact yarn

    shows considerably fewer and less pronounced clinging phenomena. Lower clingingtendency of the yarn results in the improvement of the warp yarn separation. This reduces

    the cost of sizing and subsequent desizing, and at the same time, resulting in less

    environmental pollution. Despite the lower degree of sizing, thread break rates are lower,

    which significantly improves loom efficiency, and fabric appearance. In this work a

    comparative study has been carried out to investigate if the compact fine ply carded yarn

    spun from Egyptian cotton G86 will have better quality than combed ring spun yarns.

    The results indicate that through the adjusting the production speed of the carding

    machine the carded compact yarns for the counts up to Ne 80/2 give better quality in

    comparison to the combed ring spun yarns.

    Key words: Compact yarns, carded yarns, combed yarns, ring spun yarns.

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    Introduction

    Quality and quality management are the key words used in our time; cost and quality are

    the most important factors for any company. The raw material cost in a spinning mill

    reaches up to 60% of the production cost. Several researchers (1-5) show the possibility

    to use a compact spinning to improve the quality of the yarns produced from short staple

    cotton fibers in order to get use of the improvement in the compact yarn properties (6-9).

    The study of results (10-16) indicated that compact spun yarn strength was found to be

    higher by about 15% and elongation at break by about 20%. Furthermore, the yarn

    hairiness becomes 70% less, and the coefficient of variation of the yarn was lower by

    15% than that for the equivalent ring spun yarn

    The goal of this work is to make best use of compact spinning in order to taking theadvantage of compact yarn structure in processing of carded compact ply yarns instead of

    comber ring ply yarn. A comparative study of the physical and mechanical properties of

    ply yarn produced from the Egyptian cotton G86 on the three systems is studied.

    Experimental

    A set of the experimental trials was performed to study the effect of carding production

    speed on compact yarn quality . Compact yarns of count Ne 50/1, 60/1, 80/1 using

    Egyptian cotton G.86 were spun on K44 RIETER spinning compact machine from

    slivers processed at different carding machine production speeds (40, 60, 80 and 100

    m/min). The slivers are combed at 20% noiles and processed into ply compact yarns and

    ring spun yarn of count 50/2, 60/2 and 80/2. Another set of trials was made to produce

    similar compact plied yarns from carded slivers processed at different carding production

    speed.

    Results and discussion

    Effect of carding machine production speed

    Figures from (1) to (21) show the properties of single carded compact yarns obtained at

    different carding machine production speeds varied from 50 to 100 m/min for yarn

    counts Ne 50/1, 60/1, 80/1.

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    From the analysis of the results of the different single yarn properties, it can be seen that

    as the carding machine production speed increases, the yarn imperfections are reduced

    and the tenacity and elongation increased. This may be due to that the design of modern

    carding machine has a higher number of wires on the carding cylinder which leads to

    significantly lower acting carding forces on the fibers during processing compared to

    conventional carding systems. The forces prevailing between the cylinder and the flat

    wires have a major impact on the possibility of increasing productivity without the

    deterioration of the sliver quality. The analysis of results show that compact spinning

    made possible the production of carded yarns up to count Ne 80/1 from G.86.

    Also the carded compact yarns have significantly lower hairiness than conventional

    yarns, while for yarn tensile properties, carded yarns which were produced at higher

    carding machine production speed have higher tenacity and elongation than combed yarnspun on the conventional ring spinning frame. This is most likely because that the fiber

    extent is increased at high carding production speed, which leads to maximizing the

    effect reduction of spinning triangle on the compact spinning machine, i.e. enables more

    fibers to be embedded to the yarn body. On the other hand yarn evenness and thin places

    of carded compact yarns are of the same level of conventional ring spun yarns up to yarn

    count Ne 60/1. Thick places and neps seems to be a problem when producing fine single

    carded compact yarn because the combing processes in addition to removing short fibers,

    the combing operation increases the fiber separation, eliminates many impurities

    remaining in the sliver after the carding process, thus neps and seed- coat fragments

    (SCFs) are reduced resulting in more yarn evenness and less imperfections.

    Effect of plying compact carded yarn In order to study the reflection of the above results on the ply yarns, a set of trials was

    carried out to produce ply yarns from combed and carded slivers at carding speed 100

    m/min on conventional ring spinning machine and compact machine. The results of

    testing of the produced different ply yarns properties are given in Tables [1], [2], and [3]

    .

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    Table [1] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compactyarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 50/2)

    Table [2] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compactyarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 60/2)

    SPINNING SYSTEM

    YARNPROPERTIES

    Compact

    SystemK44 RIETER

    ConventionalRing

    spinningsystem

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    COTTON TYPE GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86

    YARN TYPE COMBED COMBED CARDED CARDED CARDED CARDED

    CARDINGSPEED(m/min) 100 100 40 60 80 100TWIST FACTOR 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6TENACITY(g/tex) 29.00 21.94 24.69 25.86 25.86 25.16ELONGATION% 5.40 4.88 5.16 5.22 5.45 5.36C.V m% 8.25 10.49 10.38 10.43 10.33 9.92THIN PLACES/ KM 0 0 0 0 0 0THICK PLACES/ KM 2.5 5 8 8.5 7 6.5

    NEPS/ KM 1 9.5 9 5.5 3 3HAIRINESS 3.75 6.4 4.88 4.76 4.38 4.51YARN COUNT(Ne) 50/2 50/2 50/2 50/2 50/2 50/2

    SPINNING SYSTEM

    YARNPROPERTIES

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    ConventionalRing

    spinningsystem

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    COTTON TYPE GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86YARN TYPE COMBED COMBED CARDED CARDED CARDED CARDED

    CARDINGSPEED(m/min) 100 100 40 60 80 100TWIST FACTOR 4.747 4.747 4.747 4.747 4.747 4.747TENACITY(g/tex) 28.52 24.33 23.07 25.74 26.78 27.40ELONGATION% 5.67 5.06 4.82 5.06 5.10 5.24C.V m% 8.50 11.15 11.22 10.69 10.64 10.47THIN PLACES/ KM 0 3 0 0 0 0THICK PLACES/ KM 1 8.5 7.5 9 8 7.5

    NEPS/ KM 1 15.3 10.8 10 13.5 12.5HAIRINESS 4.22 6.68 4.77 4.64 4.48 4.53YARN COUNT(Ne) 60/2 60/2 60/2 60/2 60/2 60/2

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    Table [3] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compactyarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 80/2)

    Figures (22) to (25) shows a comparison between properties of different plied yarns

    (combed compact yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn). The

    analysis of the results indicates that in the case of combed compact ply yarns, cotton G.86

    can be processed to produce ply yarn up to count Ne 80/2 from carded single compact

    yarn at Uster quality level 5% (combed compact yarn levels).

    Carded compact yarns of the counts Ne 50/2, Ne 60/2 have significantly higher tenacity

    and elongation than conventional ring combed spun yarns. For their yarn evenness and

    imperfections, it is observed that there is a considerable decrease in plied carded compact

    yarn than in plied combed conventional yarn. This may be due to the effect of winding

    process which removes appreciable percentage of the yarn imperfections. However, for

    Ne 80/2 carded compact yarn it has less hairiness and higher tenacity than conventionalring spun combed yarn. Although the yarn imperfections of Ne 80/2 compact carded yarn

    are significantly higher than that of plied combed conventional yarn, but it is still has a

    quality level at Uster quality level 5% (combed ring spun yarn levels). It is acceptable to

    replace the combed ring ply yarn by a similar carded compact yarn.

    SPINNING SYSTEM

    YARNPROPERTIES

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    ConventionalRing

    spinningsystem

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    CompactSystem

    K44RIETER

    COTTON TYPE GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86 GIZA 86

    YARN TYPE COMBED COMBED CARDED CARDED CARDED CARDED

    CARDINGSPEED(m/min) 100 100 40 60 80 100TWIST FACTOR 4.217 4.217 4.217 4.217 4.217 4.217TENACITY(g/tex) 27.92 23.64 23.47 23.79 23.93 24.34ELONGATION% 4.81 4.75 4.30 4.23 4.52 4.31C.V m% 9.66 10.70 12.15 12.01 11.75 11.67THIN PLACES/ KM 0 0 0 0 0 0THICK PLACES/ KM 1.5 5 29 26 21 16

    NEPS/ KM 3 8 32 32 32 37HAIRINESS 3.74 4.96 4.74 4.65 4.51 4.46YARN COUNT(Ne) 80/2 80/2 80/2 80/2 80/2 80/2

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    CONCLUSION 1-The compact spinning enables the possibility of producing yarn count up to Ne 80/1

    carded yarn from G.86, when the carding production speed reaches 100 m/min.

    2-Comparison between different plied yarns :( carded compact, combed compact and

    combed conventional yarn) indicated that carded ply yarn up to Ne 60/2 produced by

    compact spinning gives a quality better or equal to that of conventional combed ring spun

    yarn according to 5%Uster Statistics quality level.

    3-It is recommended to use carded compact ply yarns up to count 60/2 instead of ply ring

    spun yarns.

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    Fig. 1 Effect of card speed Fig. 2 Effect of card speedon thin places on yarn evenness

    Fig. 3 Effect of card speed on thick Fig. 4 Effect of card speed onneps places

    Fig. 5 Effect of card speed on Fig. 6 Effect of card speed ontenacity hairiness

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.9594

    050

    100150200250300

    40 60 80 100Carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    N e p s

    / k m

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.9201

    50

    100150

    200

    250

    300

    40 60 80 100Carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    T h i c k p l a c e s

    / k m

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.5

    3

    3.05

    3.1

    3.15

    3.2

    40 60 80 100Carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    H a

    i r i n e s s

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.9905

    20

    22

    24

    26

    28

    40 60 80 100Carding machine pr oduction

    speed(m/min)

    T e n a c

    i t y

    ( g / t e x

    )

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.96

    01

    23456

    40 60 80 100Carding machine pr oduction

    speed(m/min)

    T h i n p

    l a c e s /

    k m

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.9383

    13.0%13.5%

    14.0%

    14.5%

    15.0%

    15.5%

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    C . V

    m %

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    Fig. 7 Effect of card speed on yarn elongation

    Fig. 9 Effect of card speed on yarn evenness Fig.8 Effect of card speed on thinplaces

    Fig.10 Effect of card speed on thick Fig. 11 Effect of card speedon neps places

    Ne 60/1

    R2 = 0.9383

    13.5%14.0%14.5%15.0%

    15.5%16.0%16.5%

    40 60 80 100carding m achine production

    speed(m/min)

    C . V

    m %

    Ne 60/1

    R2

    = 0.684

    0

    10

    20

    30

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    T h i n p l a c e s /

    k m

    Ne 60/1

    R2

    = 0.8394

    0

    50

    100

    150

    200

    250

    40 60 80 100carding machine pr oduction

    speed(m/min)

    T h i c k p

    l a c e s

    / k m

    Ne 60/1

    R2 = 0.684

    180190200210220230240

    250

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    N e p s /

    k m

    Ne 60/1

    R2 = 0.9092

    2.72.82.9

    33.13.23.3

    40 60 80 100carding m achine production spee d

    (m/min)

    H a i r i n e s s

    Ne 60/1

    R2 = 0.9706

    05

    1015202530

    40 60 80 100

    carding machine productionspeed(m/min)

    T e n a c i t y

    g / t e x

    Ne 50/1

    R2 = 0.8897

    3

    4

    5

    6

    40 60 80 100Carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    E l o n g a t

    i o n

    %

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    Fig. 12 Effect of card speed on Fig. 13 Effect of card speed ontenacity hairiness

    Fig.

    14Effect

    ofcardspeed

    onyarn elongation

    Fig. 15 Effect of card speed Fig. 16 Effect of card speedOn yarn evenness on thin places

    Fig. 17 Effect of card speed

    Ne 60/1

    R2 = 0.9142

    0

    2

    4

    6

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    E l o n g a t

    i o n

    %

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.9031

    16.0%

    16.5%17.0%

    17.5%18.0%

    18.5%

    40 60 80 100carding m achine production

    speed(m/min)

    C . V

    m %

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.875

    0

    50

    100

    150

    40 60 80 100carding m achine production

    speed(m/min)

    T h i n p

    l a c e s

    / k m

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.7049

    520530

    540550560570580590

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    T h i c k p

    l a c e s

    / k m

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.9231

    0

    200

    400

    600

    800

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    N e p s /

    k m

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.9821

    0

    5

    1015

    20

    25

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    T e n a c i t y

    ( g / t e x

    )

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    Fig. 18 Effect of card speed on nepson thick places

    Fig. 19 Effect of card speed Fig. 20 Effect of card speedon tenacityhairinesson

    Fig. 21 Effect of card speed on yarn elongation

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.9846

    3

    3.05

    3.1

    3.15

    3.2

    3.25

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    H a i r i n e s s

    Ne 80/1

    R2 = 0.7448

    0

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    40 60 80 100carding machine production

    speed(m/min)

    E l o n g a t

    i o n

    %

    Ne 50/2

    0

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

    8

    9

    10

    11

    C.V m%

    THICK PLACES/ KM

    NEPS/ KMHAIRINESS

    ELONGATION%

    combed compact

    combed conventional

    cardedcompactat 100m/min

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    Fig. 22 Comparison between properties of 50/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

    Fig. 23 Comparison between properties of 60/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

    Ne 60/2

    0

    2

    4

    6

    8

    10

    12

    1416

    C.V m%

    THICK PLACES/ KM

    NEPS/ KMHAIRINESS

    ELONGATION%

    combed compact

    combed conventional

    cardedcompactat 100m/min

    Ne 80/2

    -2

    3

    8

    13

    18

    23

    28

    33

    38

    C.V m%

    THICK PLACES/ KM

    NEPS/ KMHAIRINESS

    ELONGATION%

    combed compact

    combed conventional

    cardedcompactat 100m/min

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    Fig. 24 Comparison between properties of 80/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

    Fig. 25 Comparison between tenacities of different plied yarns (combed compactyarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

    References1. Staler , H., “New Spinning Process Comfort Spin,” Milliard International 6, No 1-22,

    2000

    2. Thump, R., ” Suisse Elite Spinning System for Long and Short Staple Fiber ,” TextileWorld 150, No 4, 38, 20003. Kampen, W., “Advantages of Condensed Spinning,” Milliand International 6, 98 -100(2000.4. Meyer, U., Compact Yarns: Innovation as a Sector Driving Force. MilliandInternational 6, 2, (2000) .5. Staler, H., Compact Spinning – A new Generation of Ring Spun Yarns. MelliandTextilberichtee 76(3), E29-E31 (1995).6. Basal, g., and Oxenham, W., “Comparison of Properties and Structure of Compact andConventional Spun Yarns,” Textil e Res. J. 76(7), 567-575.7. Klein, W., “A Practical Guide to Ring Spinning,” The Textile Institute Manual ofTextile Technology, MFP Design & Print, Manchester, UK, 1987.8. El Messiry, M., “New Attachment for Compact Spinning,” 1st International Textile Conference NRC, 2004.

    15

    18

    21

    24

    27

    30TENACITY(g/tex) Ne 50/2

    TENACITY(g/tex) Ne 60/2TENACITY(g/tex)Ne 80/2

    combed compact

    combed conventional

    cardedcompactat 100m/min

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    12. Behera, B., Hari, P., Ghosh, S.: Weavability of compact Yarn, Melliand International,9 (2003) 311-314.13. Goyal, A., etal , “Comparative Study of Ring and Compact Spun Yarns,” MelliandInternational 2 (2007).14. Goktepa, etal, “A Comparison of Compact Yarn Properties Produced on Differentsystems,” Textile Res. J. 76 (3), p. 226. 15. Krifa, Ethridge, “Compact Spinning Effec t of Cotton Quality Interaction with FiberCharacteristics,” Textile Res. J., 76 (5), p. 388. 16. Krifa.m, Ethridge.D, "Compact Ring Yarn: An Examination of Some ProductionIssues,” Textile topics volume 2003 -2.