a complete guide to raising backyard flocks...17-tsc-4207 chick days brochure m lf.indd 5 12/21/17...

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO

RAISINGBACKYARD

FLOCKSFLOCKSPROVIDED BY:

★ SPECIAL ORDER FORM INSIDE ★

17-TSC-4207 Chick Days Brochure M lf.indd 1 12/21/17 3:19 PM

Learn more at TractorSupply.com/Chicks

Backyard Chickens For Beginners

If you’re ready to raise your own chickens, ducks or other poultry, this guide is for you. Perhaps you want truly fresh eggs or healthy, � avorful meat. Maybe you want the chance to teach your children how animals grow. Or maybe you simply enjoy watching these beautiful birds from your back porch. Regardless, you’ll � nd this guide full of information on bird selection, safe handling practices, chicken coops, eggs and more.

Before you begin, we recommend to � rst, check for local ordinances and with your HDA/HOA if applicable to understand any restrictions before making any commitment to building a backyard � ock.

Selecting the Right Breed

Poultry breeds come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and uses.

For Meat Production Chickens raised for meat are combinations of many breeds that result in desirable growth and carcass traits. • Cornish Rock Cross • Rapid growth, reaching 4 to 6 pounds by

6 to 8 weeks of age • Excellent feed conversion (the pounds of feed needed

to attain 1 pound of weight is quite low which allows them to reach market weight with less feed input)

For Egg Production Chickens raised for their egg production ability. • White Leghorn hybrids – Optimal egg production,

the most effi cient bird at converting feed to eggs • Rhode Island Reds, ISA Browns and Andalusians –

Good egg layers that add a splash of color to your fl ock • Ameraucana hybrids, the “Easter Egg Chicken” –

Known for their light blue, green and even pink eggshells

For Dual-Purpose Production These birds produce fewer eggs than Leghorn hybrids, and are less meaty than Cornish Rock crosses, but they do well serving the dual purpose of providing meat and eggs for your family. • Plymouth Rock, Sussex, Buff Orpingtons or

sex-linked hybrids – This class of birds includes many breeds in a variety of colors and patterns, making for a colorful, eye-pleasing fl ock

For Show or Ornamental There are a multitude of unusual, exotic-looking breeds that are fun to show or simply own as unique livestock. • The Silkie, the White Crested Polish or Japanese

Bantam – Display a wide variety of personalities, colors, patterns, plumage styles and comb types. Many standard breeds are also available as bantams, which are smaller and require less space.

Be sure to thoroughly research the needs of individual breeds before purchasing them. Some have very speci� c environmental needs and may not mix well with the average backyard � ock.


Shop a wide assortment of chicks in stores or online at TractorSupply.com/LiveChicks

Backyard Chickens For Beginners

If you’re ready to raise your own chickens, ducks or other poultry, this guide is for you. Perhaps you want truly fresh eggs or healthy, � avorful meat. Maybe you want the chance to teach your children how animals grow. Or maybe you simply enjoy watching these beautiful birds from your back porch. Regardless, you’ll � nd this guide full of information on bird selection, safe handling practices, chicken coops, eggs and more.

Before you begin, we recommend to � rst, check for local ordinances and with your HDA/HOA if applicable to understand any restrictions before making any commitment to building a backyard � ock.

Selecting the Right Breed

Poultry breeds come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors and uses.

For Meat Production Chickens raised for meat are combinations of many breeds that result in desirable growth and carcass traits. • Cornish Rock Cross • Rapid growth, reaching 4 to 6 pounds by

6 to 8 weeks of age • Excellent feed conversion (the pounds of feed needed

to attain 1 pound of weight is quite low which allows them to reach market weight with less feed input)

For Egg Production Chickens raised for their egg production ability. • White Leghorn hybrids – Optimal egg production,

the most effi cient bird at converting feed to eggs • Rhode Island Reds, ISA Browns and Andalusians –

Good egg layers that add a splash of color to your fl ock • Ameraucana hybrids, the “Easter Egg Chicken” –

Known for their light blue, green and even pink eggshells

For Dual-Purpose Production These birds produce fewer eggs than Leghorn hybrids, and are less meaty than Cornish Rock crosses, but they do well serving the dual purpose of providing meat and eggs for your family. • Plymouth Rock, Sussex, Buff Orpingtons or

sex-linked hybrids – This class of birds includes many breeds in a variety of colors and patterns, making for a colorful, eye-pleasing fl ock

For Show or Ornamental There are a multitude of unusual, exotic-looking breeds that are fun to show or simply own as unique livestock. • The Silkie, the White Crested Polish or Japanese

Bantam – Display a wide variety of personalities, colors, patterns, plumage styles and comb types. Many standard breeds are also available as bantams, which are smaller and require less space.

Be sure to thoroughly research the needs of individual breeds before purchasing them. Some have very speci� c environmental needs and may not mix well with the average backyard � ock.

3


• Waterers should be emptied, scrubbed, rinsed and re� lled daily.

• Remove wet litter around waterers as often as possible. Dampness encourages disease and parasite transmission. The drier the premises, the healthier and happier the chicks.

Feeding Routine: • Day 1 — Use clean egg cartons, shallow pans or

simple squares of paper with small piles of feed. • Day 2 — Add proper feeders to the pens. • A few days later — remove the messy papers, pans or

egg � ats once chicks have learned to eat from feeders.• As birds grow, the feeders — and waterers — should

be adjusted to the height of the back of a standing bird. This will help prevent contamination and minimize wastage.

Preparing a Space for Your Chicks

Before you bring them home: • Thoroughly clean and disinfect the brooding area

and equipment several days in advance, which allows everything to dry completely. Dampness is a mortal enemy to chicks, resulting in chilling and encouraging disease such as coccidiosis.

• When the premises are dry, place 4 to 6 inches of dry bedding material such as wood shavings on the � oor. Do not use cedar shavings, as the fumes can be harmful to chicks.

• You should not house your chickens in your home.

Once they are home, you must keep them warm, dry, fed and watered.

Warming: • Small numbers of chicks can be warmed adequately

with heat lamps placed about 20 inches above the litter surface. Brooding area should be 90º-95ºF for the � rst two weeks and then reduced � ve degrees each week until chicks are a month old.

• Chicks that huddle under the lamp are too cold. Chicks that sprawl along the brooder guard are too hot. Chicks happily milling around all portions of the brooder area are comfortable.

• Monitor temperature with a thermometer at the level of the chicks.

Feed and Water:• Have plenty of fresh feed and water on hand when

the chicks arrive. Use at least two one-quart waterers or one one-gallon waterer for every 25 to 50 chicks.

• New chicks should be given only water for the � rst hour before having access to feed. Dip the beaks of all the chicks into the water to help them locate it. Also put some pro-biotic in the water to help the chicks get through the stress of transport.

• Position feeders and waterers along the edges of the comfort zone to:

• Keep the water and feed from being overheated. • Help keep water and feed cleaner, because chicks

milling and sleeping under the warmth source often scatter bedding and feces.

• Encourage the chicks to move around.


• Waterers should be emptied, scrubbed, rinsed and re� lled daily.

• Remove wet litter around waterers as often as possible. Dampness encourages disease and parasite transmission. The drier the premises, the healthier and happier the chicks.

Feeding Routine: • Day 1 — Use clean egg cartons, shallow pans or

simple squares of paper with small piles of feed. • Day 2 — Add proper feeders to the pens. • A few days later — remove the messy papers, pans or

egg � ats once chicks have learned to eat from feeders.• As birds grow, the feeders — and waterers — should

be adjusted to the height of the back of a standing bird. This will help prevent contamination and minimize wastage.

Preparing a Space for Your Chicks

Before you bring them home: • Thoroughly clean and disinfect the brooding area

and equipment several days in advance, which allows everything to dry completely. Dampness is a mortal enemy to chicks, resulting in chilling and encouraging disease such as coccidiosis.

• When the premises are dry, place 4 to 6 inches of dry bedding material such as wood shavings on the � oor. Do not use cedar shavings, as the fumes can be harmful to chicks.

• You should not house your chickens in your home.

Once they are home, you must keep them warm, dry, fed and watered.

Warming: • Small numbers of chicks can be warmed adequately

with heat lamps placed about 20 inches above the litter surface. Brooding area should be 90º-95ºF for the � rst two weeks and then reduced � ve degrees each week until chicks are a month old.

• Chicks that huddle under the lamp are too cold. Chicks that sprawl along the brooder guard are too hot. Chicks happily milling around all portions of the brooder area are comfortable.

• Monitor temperature with a thermometer at the level of the chicks.

Feed and Water:• Have plenty of fresh feed and water on hand when

the chicks arrive. Use at least two one-quart waterers or one one-gallon waterer for every 25 to 50 chicks.

• New chicks should be given only water for the � rst hour before having access to feed. Dip the beaks of all the chicks into the water to help them locate it. Also put some pro-biotic in the water to help the chicks get through the stress of transport.

• Position feeders and waterers along the edges of the comfort zone to:

• Keep the water and feed from being overheated. • Help keep water and feed cleaner, because chicks

milling and sleeping under the warmth source often scatter bedding and feces.

• Encourage the chicks to move around.

5


Here is a sample coop image for inspiration.

Coop designs vary dramatically. For recommended space allotments for di� erent birds at di� erent ages, see page 18.

Your Chicken Coop

When building your coop, consider where it will be located on your property and how you’ll access the chickens or gather eggs. Some owners repurpose old sheds or kennels, while others build elaborate coops.

There is also a great selection of pre-made coops available online at TractorSupply.com/Coops, some of which are mobile.

Whether you build or buy, keep these features in mind: • Easy to clean • Protection from the weather and predators (essential!) • Good ventilation • Adequate drainage • Indoor nests for egg laying • Continuous access to clean water • Room to roam: chickens love to stretch their wings and

move around. Crowded chickens will exhibit negative behaviors such as feather-picking and egg-eating.

48"

FRONT VIEW

12" X 12" opening-bottom should be acouple inchesabove floor

feederwaterer

translucent corrugated roofing

36"

64"

There will be a 1-1/2" openingwhere the roof meets the top ofthe walls in the front and backfor ventilation.

66"hinged door-optional if coopis within secure area or connected to a run

48"

attach 2" x 4" cleat for egg box assembly support

cut opening in wall of coop 2" less than outsidedimension of egg boxes

SIDE VIEWroosts- 1-1/2 " dowels spaced12" apart - 36" longSecure roost ladder at top

egg boxes

hinge top

hinge backdrops downfor cleaning

feeder

1/2 plywood roof sheathing

17"

12"

12"

14"

60"

Roof may be built separately and completed assembly then set onto coop and attached at each upright.

34"

36"

secure roof to frame from insidethrough top of uprights

iStock

The above coop design is for inspiration. Please consult with a skilled carpenter or structural engineer who can adapt the design to be used

for your own safe and functional coop.


Here is a sample coop image for inspiration.

Coop designs vary dramatically. For recommended space allotments for di� erent birds at di� erent ages, see page 18.

You can � nd a variety of coop styles and sizesavailable at: TractorSupply.com/Coops

Your Chicken Coop

When building your coop, consider where it will be located on your property and how you’ll access the chickens or gather eggs. Some owners repurpose old sheds or kennels, while others build elaborate coops.

There is also a great selection of pre-made coops available online at TractorSupply.com/Coops, some of which are mobile.

Whether you build or buy, keep these features in mind: • Easy to clean • Protection from the weather and predators (essential!) • Good ventilation • Adequate drainage • Indoor nests for egg laying • Continuous access to clean water • Room to roam: chickens love to stretch their wings and

move around. Crowded chickens will exhibit negative behaviors such as feather-picking and egg-eating.

48"

FRONT VIEW

12" X 12" opening-bottom should be acouple inchesabove floor

feederwaterer

translucent corrugated roofing

36"

64"

There will be a 1-1/2" openingwhere the roof meets the top ofthe walls in the front and backfor ventilation.

66"hinged door-optional if coopis within secure area or connected to a run

48"

attach 2" x 4" cleat for egg box assembly support

cut opening in wall of coop 2" less than outsidedimension of egg boxes

SIDE VIEWroosts- 1-1/2 " dowels spaced12" apart - 36" longSecure roost ladder at top

egg boxes

hinge top

hinge backdrops downfor cleaning

feeder

1/2 plywood roof sheathing

17"

12"

12"

14"

60"

Roof may be built separately and completed assembly then set onto coop and attached at each upright.

34"

36"

secure roof to frame from insidethrough top of uprights

iStock

The above coop design is for inspiration. Please consult with a skilled carpenter or structural engineer who can adapt the design to be used

for your own safe and functional coop.

7


Purina® Flock Raiser® Poultry FeedAn ideal choice for starting chickens, ducks and geese and for adult non-laying poultry • Vegetarian formula (formulated with no added

animal proteins or animal fats)• The extra energy your chicks need to keep the

growing going• Prebiotics and probiotics to support immune

and digestive health• A balanced and simple diet made from freshly-

ground North American grains

Purina® Layena® Pellets and Crumbles Poultry FeedOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and nutritious eggs• Includes Oyster Strong™ System, calcium, manganese

and other trace minerals to support strong shells (may supplement diet with additional oyster shells)

• Supports immune health with added prebiotics and probiotics

• A balanced diet made from freshly-ground North American grains

• Vegetarian formula (no added animal proteins or animal fats)

1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 . . . . . . . . . . . 18 . . . . . . . . . . . 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Purina& Turkey Startena

A balanced and complete diet for all stages of lifePurina® Premium Poultry Feeds are formulated to support immunity and digestive health with added prebiotics and probiotics.

Poultry Nutrition Backed By

Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 Poultry FeedOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and wholesome, nutritious eggs• Includes Oyster Strong™ System, calcium, manganese


• Eggs contain 250 mg Omega-3 vs. only 50 mg in a store-bought egg*



• Enhanced with vitamin E for healthy birds and wholesome eggs

• Vegetarian formula without added antibiotics

Feeding Directions CHICKENS FOR EGG LAYING• Backyard egg producers• Free-range and confined• Show and ornamentals

BACKYARD FLOCKINCLUDING DUCKS AND GEESE• Backyard Flock, meatbirds• Free-range and confined chickens, ducks and geese

FREE-RANGE ANDONFINED TURKEYS

TYPES OF BIRDS

Feed Purina18 weeks ofthe feed tag sewn onto the bag for specific feeding instructions. Purinafor starting and growing chicks and for the maintenance of adult non-laying birds.

• Free-range and confined chickens, ducks and geese

FREE-RANGE ANCONFINE



PurinaOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and wholesome,

* When fed a diet of Layena® Plus Omega-3 exclusively for at least 3 weeks. Based on large egg (56 g). Results may vary with factors such as total diet and hen health. A typical store bought egg contains 50 mg of Omega-3 fatty acids per large egg (USDA: National Nutrient Base).



animal proteins or animal fats)• The extra energy your chicks need to keep the

growing going• Prebiotics and probiotics to support immune

and digestive health• A balanced and simple diet made from freshly-

ground North American grains

Purina® Layena® Pellets and Crumbles Poultry FeedOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and nutritious eggs• Includes Oyster Strong™ System, calcium, manganese




• Vegetarian formula (no added animal proteins or animal fats)

WEEKS OF AGE 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 . . . . . . . . . . . 18 . . . . . . . . . . . 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

p

Purina® Start & Grow®

Purina® Flock Raiser®

Purina® Flock Raiser®Purina® Game Bird& Turkey Startena®

Purina® Layena®

orPurina® Layena® Plus Omega-3

Purina® Layena®

orPurina® Layena® Plus Omega-3

Purina® Layena®


Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 Poultry FeedOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and wholesome, nutritious eggs• Includes Oyster Strong™ System, calcium, manganese


• Eggs contain 250 mg Omega-3 vs. only 50 mg in a store-bought egg*



• Enhanced with vitamin E for healthy birds and wholesome eggs

• Vegetarian formula without added antibiotics

• Backyard egg producers• Free-range and confined• Show and ornamentals

KS

• Backyard Flock, meatbirds• Free-range and confined chickens, ducks and geese

YS

Feed Purina® Start & Grow® Premium Poultry Feed free-choice continuously as the sole diet from hatch until18 weeks of age or until your first egg and then switch to Purina® Layena® Premium Poultry Feed. Please consult the feed tag sewn onto the bag for specific feeding instructions. Purina® Flock Raiser® Premium Poultry Feed is for starting and growing chicks and for the maintenance of adult non-laying birds.


Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 Poultry FeedOptimum nutrition for healthy birds and wholesome,

A list of Purina products can be found at:PurinaMills.com/Chicken-Feed

* When fed a diet of Layena® Plus Omega-3 exclusively for at least 3 weeks. Based on large egg (56 g). Results may vary with factors such as total diet and hen health. A typical store bought egg contains 50 mg of Omega-3 fatty acids per large egg (USDA: National Nutrient Base).

(For chickens only)


Feeding Your Birds

Just as human nutritional needs change from infancy to adulthood, our backyard birds need essential nutrients as they grow from chick to pullet to hen or rooster.

To help your � ock thrive, select a complete chicken feed that is formulated speci� cally for its age, species or stage of production. Once you determine the complete feed you need, feed no less than 90 percent of the diet as the complete feed to help prevent essential nutrients from being diluted by snacks or treats.

Layer chicks The � rst feed you provide your chicks can fuel their long-term growth potential. As babies, chicks grow and develop almost every day — an exhilarating time for � ock owners. Support development by providing a complete starter feed that is formulated to include everything the baby chicks need, such as DuMOR Poultry Chick Starter/Grower, from day one through week 18.

Be sure not to transition layer chicks to a layer diet before 18 weeks of age, because extra calcium in the feed can cause permanent kidney damage and even death.

Meat birds and mixed fl ocksBroiler chicks have considerably higher nutrient requirements than layer chicks due to their extremely fast rate of growth and much greater muscle mass, so it is important to supply them with a high-energy feed that has at least 20 percent protein. Flocks containing a mixture of species and even ages can be optimally fed with one feed as long as you choose the right product.

Laying hensWhen hens begin laying eggs, they require additional nutrients. Because laying eggs is a full-time job for hens, they should be fed a consistent and complete diet that o� ers all of the nutrients they need.

The biggest di� erence between a starter and a layer feed is calcium. Egg production requires very high levels of calcium to support strong eggshells, which are formed in a surprisingly short time. For this reason, provide a complete layer feed forti� ed with calcium, like DuMOR Poultry Layer Feed.

Birds in moltAfter egg-laying season, hens often stop laying eggs, lose their feathers and proceed to grow new ones. This period, known as molt, is a healthy process, replenishing energy to the hen and producing a vibrant new set of feathers.

Feather regrowth requires good quality protein, but not great amounts of calcium, so during molt, switch laying hens from a calcium-rich complete feed to a complete feed higher in protein.

If feeding a mixed � ock of molting and laying hens, be sure to supplement the diet with oyster shells, free-choice, to help the laying hens meet calcium requirements.

Once hens return to egg-laying, gradually transition back to a complete layer feed, like DuMOR Poultry Layer Feed, to help them continue producing nutritious eggs for your family.


Feeding Your Birds

Just as human nutritional needs change from infancy to adulthood, our backyard birds need essential nutrients as they grow from chick to pullet to hen or rooster.

To help your � ock thrive, select a complete chicken feed that is formulated speci� cally for its age, species or stage of production. Once you determine the complete feed you need, feed no less than 90 percent of the diet as the complete feed to help prevent essential nutrients from being diluted by snacks or treats.

Layer chicks The � rst feed you provide your chicks can fuel their long-term growth potential. As babies, chicks grow and develop almost every day — an exhilarating time for � ock owners. Support development by providing a complete starter feed that is formulated to include everything the baby chicks need, such as DuMOR Poultry Chick Starter/Grower, from day one through week 18.

Be sure not to transition layer chicks to a layer diet before 18 weeks of age, because extra calcium in the feed can cause permanent kidney damage and even death.

Meat birds and mixed fl ocksBroiler chicks have considerably higher nutrient requirements than layer chicks due to their extremely fast rate of growth and much greater muscle mass, so it is important to supply them with a high-energy feed that has at least 20 percent protein. Flocks containing a mixture of species and even ages can be optimally fed with one feed as long as you choose the right product.

Laying hensWhen hens begin laying eggs, they require additional nutrients. Because laying eggs is a full-time job for hens, they should be fed a consistent and complete diet that o� ers all of the nutrients they need.

The biggest di� erence between a starter and a layer feed is calcium. Egg production requires very high levels of calcium to support strong eggshells, which are formed in a surprisingly short time. For this reason, provide a complete layer feed forti� ed with calcium, like DuMOR Poultry Layer Feed.

Birds in moltAfter egg-laying season, hens often stop laying eggs, lose their feathers and proceed to grow new ones. This period, known as molt, is a healthy process, replenishing energy to the hen and producing a vibrant new set of feathers.

Feather regrowth requires good quality protein, but not great amounts of calcium, so during molt, switch laying hens from a calcium-rich complete feed to a complete feed higher in protein.

If feeding a mixed � ock of molting and laying hens, be sure to supplement the diet with oyster shells, free-choice, to help the laying hens meet calcium requirements.

Once hens return to egg-laying, gradually transition back to a complete layer feed, like DuMOR Poultry Layer Feed, to help them continue producing nutritious eggs for your family.

iStock

11


Raising Ducks

Ducks have di� erent needs than chickens. These quick tips can help keep them healthy and safe.

NOTE: Most domestic ducks cannot fl y or migrate and should never be released into the wild or in public areas. Most ducks sold at TSC are domestic ducks.

Feeding Baby Ducks• Never feed ducks without water. Water helps get food

down and cleans beak vents. Always give baby ducks access to water for at least an hour before feeding.

• We recommend chick starter with 20 percent protein for the � rst 10 weeks, switching to a 15 percent grower weeks 10-18, and a 16 percent layer after 18 weeks.

• Ducklings have no teeth but appreciate � nely chopped fruits, vegetables or greens. Small insects and worms make good treats, as well.

Shelter• Ducks need housing that is safe from predators and

the elements, but they also need shelter to provide quiet and seclusion.

• The shelter should be well-ventilated and large enough that your ducks can fully expand their wings and groom.

Water• Ducklings need a ready source of clean water.

Chick fountains are recommended.• Ducklings will play in water, making a mess.

Be sure to clean it often.

• Water should be no more than ¼-inch deep. Make sure ducklings can easily escape the water. Baby ducks love to play in water but can easily drown if they tire.

• Ducklings don’t produce waterproo� ng oil until 4 weeks of age. In the wild, mothers apply it. Swimming your ducks too early can result in death from chill or even drowning from fatigue.

Flight• Most commercially grown ducks are too large to

maintain � ight and will stay around a good source of food, water and shelter.

• Straight run ducks at TSC can include a mix of breeds. Be advised migrating species such as Mallard may be included. Once adult, these may or may not take up permanent residence.

Eggs• A duck egg can be used for anything a chicken

egg would, but take size di� erences into account for recipes.

• Besides being larger, duck eggs have thicker whites and proportionately larger yolks than chicken eggs. Overcooking will render them rubbery.

• Many prefer duck eggs for baking, believing they help cakes to rise and stay risen while the high fat content adds richness and � avor.


Raising Ducks

Ducks have di� erent needs than chickens. These quick tips can help keep them healthy and safe.

NOTE: Most domestic ducks cannot fl y or migrate and should never be released into the wild or in public areas. Most ducks sold at TSC are domestic ducks.

Feeding Baby Ducks• Never feed ducks without water. Water helps get food

down and cleans beak vents. Always give baby ducks access to water for at least an hour before feeding.

• We recommend chick starter with 20 percent protein for the � rst 10 weeks, switching to a 15 percent grower weeks 10-18, and a 16 percent layer after 18 weeks.

• Ducklings have no teeth but appreciate � nely chopped fruits, vegetables or greens. Small insects and worms make good treats, as well.

Shelter• Ducks need housing that is safe from predators and

the elements, but they also need shelter to provide quiet and seclusion.

• The shelter should be well-ventilated and large enough that your ducks can fully expand their wings and groom.

Water• Ducklings need a ready source of clean water.

Chick fountains are recommended.• Ducklings will play in water, making a mess.

Be sure to clean it often.

• Water should be no more than ¼-inch deep. Make sure ducklings can easily escape the water. Baby ducks love to play in water but can easily drown if they tire.

• Ducklings don’t produce waterproo� ng oil until 4 weeks of age. In the wild, mothers apply it. Swimming your ducks too early can result in death from chill or even drowning from fatigue.

Flight• Most commercially grown ducks are too large to

maintain � ight and will stay around a good source of food, water and shelter.

• Straight run ducks at TSC can include a mix of breeds. Be advised migrating species such as Mallard may be included. Once adult, these may or may not take up permanent residence.

Eggs• A duck egg can be used for anything a chicken

egg would, but take size di� erences into account for recipes.

• Besides being larger, duck eggs have thicker whites and proportionately larger yolks than chicken eggs. Overcooking will render them rubbery.

• Many prefer duck eggs for baking, believing they help cakes to rise and stay risen while the high fat content adds richness and � avor.

iStock

13


Safe Handling Practices

If you raise poultry, chances are pretty good that the Salmonella bacteria is lurking around.

Live baby poultry can carry Salmonella and still appear healthy, but can spread the germs to people, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control.

Young children, in particular, are at risk for being exposed to Salmonella because they’re drawn to baby chicks or ducklings and will hold, cuddle or kiss the birds. They can also pick up the germs by touching things where the bird lives, such as cages or feed and water bowls and then putting their � ngers or other items into their mouths, as young children are prone to do.

Salmonella is especially dangerous to young children because their immune systems are still developing, according to the CDC.

Egg Production

Healthy pullets (young female chickens) will begin laying eggs at about 18 to 20 weeks of age and will reach peak production at about 30 weeks. Chickens lay their whole lives but it is the � rst 3 years when they are most productive.

It is not necessary for a rooster to be present for egg laying to begin, but without a rooster, all eggs will be unfertilized, which means do not expect any chicks.

Eggs are laid with a protective coating, which helps keep bacteria out. It is best if this is not disturbed. Excessive washing can force bacteria through pores in the shell and into the egg, greatly reducing its chance for successful incubation and hatching.

Once hens begin laying eggs, be sure to gather eggs at least in the morning and in the evening. This helps to keep the eggs cleaner and reduces chances for eggs to get cracked by hen traffi c in the nests. Egg cracks — which are not always visible to the naked eye — can allow bacteria to enter the egg. If eggs are washed, never use cold water, always use warm to deter bacteria from entering the eggshell through its pores.

Provide light for at least 17 hours per day to sustain strong egg productions. Without supplemental light, they will naturally stop laying eggs when daylight drops below 12 hours per day due to a hormonal response in the hen that is triggered by light.


For more information, call 1-800-CDC-INFO or visit CDC.gov

Safe Handling Practices

If you raise poultry, chances are pretty good that the Salmonella bacteria is lurking around.

Live baby poultry can carry Salmonella and still appear healthy, but can spread the germs to people, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control.

Young children, in particular, are at risk for being exposed to Salmonella because they’re drawn to baby chicks or ducklings and will hold, cuddle or kiss the birds. They can also pick up the germs by touching things where the bird lives, such as cages or feed and water bowls and then putting their � ngers or other items into their mouths, as young children are prone to do.

Salmonella is especially dangerous to young children because their immune systems are still developing, according to the CDC.

These guidelines should help protectyou and your family:

• Wash your hands well with soap and water when you touch live poultry or anything in their area.

• Make sure young children wash their hands thoroughly.• Don’t let children younger than 5 (or anyone with a

weak immune system) handle or touch live poultry.• Don’t let live poultry inside the house, in bathrooms

or especially in areas where food or drink is prepared, served or stored, such as kitchens or outdoor patios.

iStock

Egg Production

Healthy pullets (young female chickens) will begin laying eggs at about 18 to 20 weeks of age and will reach peak production at about 30 weeks. Chickens lay their whole lives but it is the � rst 3 years when they are most productive.

It is not necessary for a rooster to be present for egg laying to begin, but without a rooster, all eggs will be unfertilized, which means do not expect any chicks.

Eggs are laid with a protective coating, which helps keep bacteria out. It is best if this is not disturbed. Excessive washing can force bacteria through pores in the shell and into the egg, greatly reducing its chance for successful incubation and hatching.

Once hens begin laying eggs, be sure to gather eggs at least in the morning and in the evening. This helps to keep the eggs cleaner and reduces chances for eggs to get cracked by hen traffi c in the nests. Egg cracks — which are not always visible to the naked eye — can allow bacteria to enter the egg. If eggs are washed, never use cold water, always use warm to deter bacteria from entering the eggshell through its pores.

Provide light for at least 17 hours per day to sustain strong egg productions. Without supplemental light, they will naturally stop laying eggs when daylight drops below 12 hours per day due to a hormonal response in the hen that is triggered by light.

15


Sanitation and Biosecurity

While you cannot keep your poultry premises as clean as a hospital, you can certainly practice good, preventive sanitation and reduce the chances of disease or parasites.

Sanitation• Remove manure, old feed and wet litter at least

once a day. • Periodically remove all organic matter from every

surface birds are exposed to (� oor, walls, feeders, etc.) and clean with warm water and an appropriate cleanser.

• Carefully read the directions for each cleaning agent: some do not kill certain organisms, and some may release fumes harmful to your birds.

• Allow the premises to dry thoroughly before replacing equipment and bedding. A dry environment is a healthy environment.

• Dampness greatly decreases the insulating capacity of litter, so your birds will be more susceptible to cold. Cold birds are stressed birds, and stress contributes to disease susceptibility.

• Parasites, especially coccidia, � ourish in damp surroundings, as do viruses and bacteria.

• Lice and mites can make your birds miserable. Treat birds and litter with a dusting powder like diatomaceous earth, and use poultry-safe insecticides on buildings, roosts and other equipment.

• Inspect the vents on your birds regularly — this is the easiest place to spot external parasites. The vent is the outside opening of the cloaca, from which eggs are produced and droppings emitted.

• Store feed in metal containers with tightly � tting lids to keep out rodents and wild birds and their droppings.

Biosecurity• Be sure your hen house is secure from rodents and

other predators and disease carriers. • Avoid unnecessary tra� c between � ocks to limit

transmission of diseases. • Never bring new adult birds into your � ock or onto

your premises. Even adult birds that appear healthy can be carriers of serious diseases. If you acquire new birds, quarantine them for at least 30 days until your veterinarian has tested them and approved their addition to your � ock.

• Always care for your regular � ock before tending quarantined birds, and clean your boots and clothes before returning to your � ock.


Sanitation and Biosecurity

While you cannot keep your poultry premises as clean as a hospital, you can certainly practice good, preventive sanitation and reduce the chances of disease or parasites.

Sanitation• Remove manure, old feed and wet litter at least

once a day. • Periodically remove all organic matter from every

surface birds are exposed to (� oor, walls, feeders, etc.) and clean with warm water and an appropriate cleanser.

• Carefully read the directions for each cleaning agent: some do not kill certain organisms, and some may release fumes harmful to your birds.

• Allow the premises to dry thoroughly before replacing equipment and bedding. A dry environment is a healthy environment.

• Dampness greatly decreases the insulating capacity of litter, so your birds will be more susceptible to cold. Cold birds are stressed birds, and stress contributes to disease susceptibility.

• Parasites, especially coccidia, � ourish in damp surroundings, as do viruses and bacteria.

17

• Lice and mites can make your birds miserable. Treat birds and litter with a dusting powder like diatomaceous earth, and use poultry-safe insecticides on buildings, roosts and other equipment.

• Inspect the vents on your birds regularly — this is the easiest place to spot external parasites. The vent is the outside opening of the cloaca, from which eggs are produced and droppings emitted.

• Store feed in metal containers with tightly � tting lids to keep out rodents and wild birds and their droppings.

Biosecurity• Be sure your hen house is secure from rodents and

other predators and disease carriers. • Avoid unnecessary tra� c between � ocks to limit

transmission of diseases. • Never bring new adult birds into your � ock or onto

your premises. Even adult birds that appear healthy can be carriers of serious diseases. If you acquire new birds, quarantine them for at least 30 days until your veterinarian has tested them and approved their addition to your � ock.

• Always care for your regular � ock before tending quarantined birds, and clean your boots and clothes before returning to your � ock.


Due to spring volumes, delivery will vary by breed and hatchery.

BUILDING YOUR FLOCK IS EASY AS 1. 2. 3.

PICK THE EXACT BIRDS YOU WANT

WITH OUR SPECIAL ORDER PROGRAM.

★2018★

LEARN MORE: www.TractorSupply.com/Chicks

Backyard Flock Starter CHECKLIST

General Equipment and Supplies Needed

■ Safe, clean, draft-free chicken coop, room or building

■ Heated brooder lamps

■ Bedding such as: pine shavings, chopped straw, oat hulls or coarse ground cobs

■ Brooder guard

■ Feeders

■ Waterers

■ Sanitizing solution

■ Cleaning brushes

■ Rake

■ Pitchfork or shovel (for large areas)

■ Egg cartons or shallow pans

■ 420-450 LM LED bulbs

■ High-quality, natural feed

■ Thermometer

All the necessary equipment and supplies can be obtained from your local Tractor Supply store.

Space Requirements The chart below lists recommended space allotments for di� erent birds at di� erent ages. Space requirements increase with age and size and can be a� ected by the availability of outdoor runs as well as by temperature (for instance, the birds need more space when it is hot).

Age Square feet of fl oor space per chick

Hatch to 2 weeks 0.5

2 to 6 weeks 1.0 to 3.0

6 weeks to older 6.0 to 10.0


Due to spring volumes, delivery will vary by breed and hatchery.

1. Review and select your birds.2. Return completed order form to your store.3. Pick up your birds at your local post offi ce.

BUILDING YOUR FLOCK IS EASY AS 1. 2. 3.

PICK THE EXACT BIRDS YOU WANT

WITH OUR SPECIAL ORDER PROGRAM.

★2018★

LEARN MORE: www.TractorSupply.com/Chicks


PRODUCTION LAYER PULLET LY01PL E VH L-XL W/B Y

PRODUCTION BROILER UNSEXED BR01SR M M M-L B Y

AMERAUCANA UNSEXED PULLETS

CH01SR CH01PL M/E M L BL Y Y Y

ANCONA UNSEXED PULLETS

CH02SR CH02PL E M M-L W Y

BANTAMS UNSEXED CH03SR O M S W/B Y Y

BLACK AUSTRALORP UNSEXED PULLETS

CH04SR CH04PL M/E H L B Y Y Y

JERSEY GIANT UNSEXED PULLETS

CH05SR CH05PL M/E M M-L B Y Y Y

BLACK MINORCA UNSEXED PULLETS

CH06SR CH06PL E H L W Y

ANDALUSIAN UNSEXED PULLETS

CH07SR CH07PL M/E H M BL Y

BRAHMA UNSEXED PULLETS

CH08SR CH08PL M/E M M-L B Y Y Y

BUFF ORPINGTON UNSEXED PULLETS


COCHINS UNSEXED PULLETS

CH10SR CH10PL M/O M L B Y Y Y

CORNISH UNSEXED PULLETS

CH11SR CH11PL M L S-M B Y Y

DELAWARE UNSEXED PULLETS

CH12SR CH12PL M/E M L-XL B Y Y Y

DOMINIQUE UNSEXED PULLETS

CH13SR CH13PL M/E VH M-L B Y Y

HAMBURG UNSEXED PULLETS

CH14SR CH14PL E M M W Y

LAKENVELDER UNSEXED PULLETS

CH15SR CH15PL E M M W Y Y

LANGSHAN UNSEXED PULLETS

CH16SR CH16PL M/E M L B Y Y Y

LEGHORN UNSEXED PULLETS

CH17SR CH17PL E VH L W Y Y

CUCKOO MARANS UNSEXED PULLETS

CH18SR CH18PL M/E M L DB Y Y Y

NEW HAMPSHIRE UNSEXED PULLETS

CH19SR CH19PL M/E M L-XL RD Y Y Y

PHOENIX UNSEXED CH20SR O L S-M W Y

PLYMOUTH ROCK UNSEXED PULLETS


RHODE ISLAND RED UNSEXED PULLETS

CH22SR CH22PL M/E H L-XL B Y Y Y

RUSSIAN ORLOFF UNSEXED PULLETS

CH23SR CH23PL O M M B Y Y Y

SICILIAN BUTTERCUP UNSEXED PULLETS

CH24SR CH24PL E M M W Y

SILKIE (BANTAM) UNSEXED CH25SR O L S W Y Y Y

SPECKLED SUSSEX UNSEXED PULLETS

CH26SR CH26PL M/E H M B Y Y Y

TURKEN UNSEXED PULLETS

CH27SR CH27PL M/E H L B Y Y

WELSUMMER UNSEXED PULLETS

CH28SR CH28PL M/E M L B Y Y

WYANDOTTE UNSEXED PULLETS

CH29SR CH29PL M/E M L B Y Y Y

BREE

D

SEX

OPTI

ON

ITEM

#

MAI

N US

E

EGG

PROD

UCTI

ON

EGG

SIZE

EGG

COLO

R

FREE

RAN

GE

CONF

INED

COLD

HAR

DY


W/B Y Y

B Y N

BL Y Y Y Y

W Y Y

W/B Y Y Y

B Y Y Y Y

B Y Y Y BK

W Y Y

BL Y Y

B Y Y Y BF, DK, LT

B Y Y Y Y

B Y Y Y AS, BD, BK, BL, BF, PR, WT, SL

B Y Y N DK, BF, WR

B Y Y Y Y

B Y Y Y

W Y Y GS, SS

W Y Y Y GD, SV

B Y Y Y Y BK, BL

W Y Y Y BD, BN, SV, WT

DB Y Y Y Y

RD Y Y Y Y

W Y Y GD, SV, WT

B Y Y Y Y BD, BF, PR, WT

B Y Y Y Y RD, WT

B Y Y Y

W Y Y

W Y Y Y Y AS, BF, BL, BK, WT

B Y Y Y Y

B Y Y Y

B Y Y Y

B Y Y Y Y BK, BL, BF, GL, SL

EGG

COLO

R

FREE

RAN

GE

CONF

INED

COLD

HAR

DY

HEAT

TOLE

RANT

COLO

R OP

TION

S

SEX OPTION: Unsexed - male and female mixed as hatchedPullet - female only

MAIN USE:E - eggM - meatO - ornamental

EGG PRODUCTION:L - lowM - moderateH - highVH - very high

EGG SIZE:S - smallM - mediumL - largeXL - extra large

EGG COLOR:W - whiteB - brownBL - blue/green

FREE RANGE /CONFINED:Any bird can be kept eitherway, but some birds are better suited than others.

COLD HARDY /HEAT TOLERANT:Indicates general tolerance of temperature extremes.

COLOR GUIDE:AS - assorted BD - barredBF - buffBK - blackBL - blueBN - brownDK - darkGD - goldGL - golden lacedGS - gold spangled

LT - light LV - lavenderPL - pearlPR - partridgeRD - redSL - silver lacedSS - silver spangledSV - silverWR - white laced redWT - white

CHICKENINFO GUIDE

DB - dark brown RD - red


PRODUCTION LAYER ITEM # Pullet: LY01PL

PRODUCTION BROILER ITEM # Unsexed: BR01SR

AMERAUCANA ITEM # Unsexed: CH01SR Pullet: CH01PL

ANCONA ITEM # Unsexed: CHO2SR Pullet: CH02PL

AUSTRALORP ITEM # Unsexed: CH04SR Pullet: CH04PL

ANDALUSIAN ITEM # Unsexed: CH07SR Pullet: CH07PL

BANTAMS (ASSORTED) ITEM # Unsexed: CH03SR

BRAHMA ITEM # Unsexed: CH08SR Pullet: CH08PL

BUFF ORPINGTON ITEM # Unsexed: CH09SR Pullet: CH09PL

COCHINS ITEM # Unsexed: CH10SR Pullet: CH10PL

CORNISH ITEM # Unsexed: CH11SR Pullet: CH11PL

CUCKOO MARANS ITEM # Unsexed: CH18SR Pullet: CH18PL

DELAWARE ITEM # Unsexed: CH12SR Pullet: CH12PL

DOMINIQUE ITEM # Unsexed: CH13SR Pullet: CH13PL

HAMBURG ITEM # Unsexed: CH14SR Pullet: CH14PL

JERSEY GIANT ITEM # Unsexed: CH05SR Pullet: CH05PL

LAKENVELDER ITEM # Unsexed: CH15SR Pullet: CH15PL

LANGSHAN ITEM # Unsexed: CH16SR Pullet: CH16PL

LEGHORN ITEM # Unsexed: CH17SR Pullet: CH17PL

MINORCA ITEM # Unsexed: CH06SR Pullet: CH06PL

NEW HAMPSHIRE ITEM # Unsexed: CH19SR Pullet: CH19PL

PHOENIX ITEM # Unsexed: CH20SR

PLYMOUTH ROCK ITEM # Unsexed: CH21SR Pullet: CH21PL

RHODE ISLAND RED ITEM # Unsexed: CH22SR Pullet: CH22PL

RUSSIAN ORLOFF ITEM # Unsexed: CH23SR Pullet: CH23PL

SICILIAN BUTTERCUP ITEM # Unsexed: CH24SR Pullet: CH24PL

SILKIE (BANTAM) ITEM # Unsexed: CH25SR

SPECKLED SUSSEX ITEM # Unsexed: CH26SR Pullet: CH26PL

TURKEN ITEM # Unsexed: CH27SR Pullet: CH27PL

WELSUMMER ITEM # Unsexed: CH28SR Pullet: CH28PL

WYANDOTTE ITEM # Unsexed: CH29SR Pullet: CH29PL

KHAKI CAMPBELL ITEM # Unsexed: DU01SR

MALLARD ITEM # Unsexed: DU02SR

PEKIN ITEM # Unsexed: DU05SR

ROUEN ITEM # Unsexed: DU03SR

SWEDISH ITEM # Unsexed: DU04SR

BLACK SPANISH TURKEY ITEM # Unsexed: TU01SR

BOURBON RED ITEM # Unsexed: TU02SR

BROAD BREASTED BRONZE ITEM # Unsexed: TU03SR

BROAD BREASTED WHITE ITEM # Unsexed: TU04SR

NARRAGANSETT ITEM # Unsexed: TU05SR

AFRICAN ITEM # Unsexed: GE01SR

CHINESE ITEM # Unsexed: GE02SR

GUINEAS ITEM # Unsexed: GU01SR

BREED PRIORITY

349- pullets & bantams -

each$289$

each- Unsexed -

See photos of the birds and learn more: TractorSupply.com/Chicks

CHICKENS DUCKS

TURKEYS

GUINEAS

GEESE

PHEASANTSCHINESE RINGNECK ITEM # Unsexed: PHS

MELANISTIC MUTANT ITEM # Unsexed: MMPS


PRODUCTION LAYER ITEM # Pullet: LY01PL

PRODUCTION BROILER ITEM # Unsexed: BR01SR

AMERAUCANA ITEM # Unsexed: CH01SR Pullet: CH01PL

ANCONA ITEM # Unsexed: CHO2SR Pullet: CH02PL

AUSTRALORP ITEM # Unsexed: CH04SR Pullet: CH04PL

ANDALUSIAN ITEM # Unsexed: CH07SR Pullet: CH07PL

BANTAMS (ASSORTED) ITEM # Unsexed: CH03SR

BRAHMA ITEM # Unsexed: CH08SR Pullet: CH08PL

BUFF ORPINGTON ITEM # Unsexed: CH09SR Pullet: CH09PL

COCHINS ITEM # Unsexed: CH10SR Pullet: CH10PL

CORNISH ITEM # Unsexed: CH11SR Pullet: CH11PL

CUCKOO MARANS ITEM # Unsexed: CH18SR Pullet: CH18PL

DELAWARE ITEM # Unsexed: CH12SR Pullet: CH12PL

DOMINIQUE ITEM # Unsexed: CH13SR Pullet: CH13PL

HAMBURG ITEM # Unsexed: CH14SR Pullet: CH14PL

JERSEY GIANT ITEM # Unsexed: CH05SR Pullet: CH05PL

LAKENVELDER ITEM # Unsexed: CH15SR Pullet: CH15PL

LANGSHAN ITEM # Unsexed: CH16SR Pullet: CH16PL

LEGHORN ITEM # Unsexed: CH17SR Pullet: CH17PL

MINORCA ITEM # Unsexed: CH06SR Pullet: CH06PL

NEW HAMPSHIRE ITEM # Unsexed: CH19SR Pullet: CH19PL

PHOENIX ITEM # Unsexed: CH20SR

PLYMOUTH ROCK ITEM # Unsexed: CH21SR Pullet: CH21PL

RHODE ISLAND RED ITEM # Unsexed: CH22SR Pullet: CH22PL

RUSSIAN ORLOFF ITEM # Unsexed: CH23SR Pullet: CH23PL

SICILIAN BUTTERCUP ITEM # Unsexed: CH24SR Pullet: CH24PL

SILKIE (BANTAM) ITEM # Unsexed: CH25SR

SPECKLED SUSSEX ITEM # Unsexed: CH26SR Pullet: CH26PL

TURKEN ITEM # Unsexed: CH27SR Pullet: CH27PL

WELSUMMER ITEM # Unsexed: CH28SR Pullet: CH28PL

WYANDOTTE ITEM # Unsexed: CH29SR Pullet: CH29PL

KHAKI CAMPBELL ITEM # Unsexed: DU01SR

MALLARD ITEM # Unsexed: DU02SR

PEKIN ITEM # Unsexed: DU05SR

ROUEN ITEM # Unsexed: DU03SR

SWEDISH ITEM # Unsexed: DU04SR

BLACK SPANISH TURKEY ITEM # Unsexed: TU01SR

BOURBON RED ITEM # Unsexed: TU02SR

BROAD BREASTED BRONZE ITEM # Unsexed: TU03SR

BROAD BREASTED WHITE ITEM # Unsexed: TU04SR

NARRAGANSETT ITEM # Unsexed: TU05SR

AFRICAN ITEM # Unsexed: GE01SR

CHINESE ITEM # Unsexed: GE02SR

GUINEAS ITEM # Unsexed: GU01SR

BREED PRIORITY

999each$

999each$

999each$

749each$

749each$

449- Unsexed -

each$

899- Unsexed -

each$

499- Unsexed -

each$349

- pullets & bantams -each

- SEE BELOW -

ASPRICED

See photos of the birds and learn more: TractorSupply.com/Chicks

DUCKS

TURKEYS

GUINEAS

GEESE

PHEASANTSCHINESE RINGNECK ITEM # Unsexed: PHS

MELANISTIC MUTANT ITEM # Unsexed: MMPS

499- Unsexed -

each$


Minimum on all special orders is 25 birds. Orders of Chickens, Ducks and Geese are limited to two breed OR two sex choices. Bantams and Turkeys must be ordered in minimums of 25. Take completed form to your local TSC to place your order.

DELIVERY ADDRESS

NAME

ADDRESS

CITY STATE ZIP

HOME PHONE # ( )

CELL PHONE # (optional) ( )

TOTAL QTY: TOTAL COST: $

SPECIAL ORDER FORM

BREED SELECTION: ITEM # COLOR OPTION:

CIRCLE ONE:

Unsexed / Pullets

QUANTITY: COST/BIRD:

$ .

TOTAL:

$ .


CIRCLE ONE:

Unsexed / Pullets


$ .

TOTAL:

$ .


CIRCLE ONE:

Unsexed / Pullets


$ .

TOTAL:

$ .


CIRCLE ONE:

Unsexed / Pullets


$ .

TOTAL:

$ .


CIRCLE ONE:

Unsexed / Pullets


$ .

TOTAL:

$ .


a complete guide to raising backyard flocks...17-tsc-4207 chick days brochure m lf.indd 5 12/21/17...

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