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    Dimana Trankova  

    THRACIA

    Front cover: Sunrise over Harmankaya rock shrine, in the Rhodope, 1st Millennium BC

    Title page: Phiale from the Panagyurishte Treasure, 4th Century BC

    ISBN: 978-619-90319-2-6

    Всички права запазени.Без ограничения на правата, под които е установено авторското

    право,нито една част от това произведение не може да бъде възпроизвеждана,

    съхранявана или въвеждана в система за циркулация, или препредавана под каквато и да

    била форма (електронна,м еханична,фотокопиране или друга) без писмено съгласие на

    издателя.

    All rights reserved.Without limiting the copyright reserved above, no part of this publication

    may be reproduced,stored in, or introduced into a retrieval system,or transmitted in any form

    or by any means (electronic, mechanical,photocopying or otherwise), without the prior written

    consent of the publisher.

    Homer's The Iliad quoted from the English translation of A. T. Murray, Cambridge,

    MA., Harvard University Press; London, William Heinemann, Ltd. 1924.

    The Histories by Herodotus are quoted from the English translation of A. D. Godley,

    Harvard University Press, 1920.

    The publication of this book is supported by the America for BulgariaFoundation. The statements and opinions expressed herein are thoseof the authors and do not necessarily reect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria Foundation and its partners.

    A GUIDE TO THRACIAN BULGARIA

    by Dimana Trankova, Miglena Vasileva, Anthony Georgieff 

    © Dimana Trankova (text)

    © Miglena Vasileva (text)

    © Anthony Georgieff (photography)

    Subedit ed by Vassil Yovchev

    Edited by Anthony Georgieff 

    Graphic design by Gergana Shkodrova

    Printed by Janet-45 Print & Publishing, Plovdiv

    © FSI Foundation, 2015

    First published in July, 2015

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    CO

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    Begliktash megalithic sanctuary, near Primorsko

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    About 4,000 years ago the lands of modern

    Bulgaria were inhabited by people who built

    fortications and cities, buried their dead

    in monumental tombs, drank wine from

    gold and silver cups , and warred, traded and

    did politics with the ancient Greeks and

    Romans, with the Persians, the Scythians and

    the ancient Macedonians.

    These people were the Thracians.

    Today their name is barely known to

    anyone outside southeastern E urope. The

    Thracians built for eternity – especially tombs

    and shrines – but they lived in the moment

    and, underestimating the importance of

    writing down their deeds, they left next to

    nothing about their history, faith and beliefs.

    And so, bar the fascinating sites and treasuresthey created, the life of the Thracians remains

    more or less a mystery.

    What we know for sure is that the

    Thracians are Indo-Europeans and began to

    emerge as a singular ethnic group around

    the middle of the 2nd Millennium BC.

    Did these people form gradually, over

    millennia, from the oldest, Neolithic inhabitants

    of southeastern Europe? Or descended from

    newcomers who changed the population in

    the region during the transition between the

    Chalcolithic and the Bronze ages, in the rst

    half of the 4th Millennium BC? These questions

    so far h ave no denitive answer.

    The ancient Greeks, who produced the

    most extensive historical source about their

    neighbours the Thracians, called Thraike or

    Thrake the lands to the northeast of their

    own territories. The people who lived there

    were respectively called Thracians.

    There are several theories about what

    the name Thracian means. It could be the

    Greek form of a local ethnonym, possibly

    connected with ancient Troy and the Trojans.

    We know from Homer, who created therst written source of Thracians' existence,

    that the Thracians sided with Troy during the

    infamous 10-year war. Their kings Rhesus,

    Peiros and Acamas fought with the Greeks,

    and Rhesus was famed for his beautiful

    white horses.

    Another theory claims that o riginally

    Thracian meant "brave" or "courageous", but

    later switched to mean "wild" and "s avage."

    According to an ancient story, Thrace, the

    land of the Thracians, bore the name of a

    nymph called Thrake, a powerful s orceress

    who would use her knowledge of herbs to

    heal and harm, at her whim.

    The Thracians inhabited a vast area

    between the Carpathian mountains, the Black

    Sea and the Aegean Sea with the islands of

    Thassos and Samothrace, and the courses of

    the Struma and Morava rivers. Today these

    lands are divided between Bulgaria, northern

    Greece, European Turkey, southern Romania

    and parts of Serbia and Macedonia. The core

    of the Thracian lands is in Bulgaria.

    The Th racians were famously disunited

    politically. They lived in numerous tribes –the accounts vary between 22 and 80 – and

    each of these groups had its own nobility

    and rulers. Among this multitude, the tribes

    of the Odrysians, the Bessi, the Tribali and

    the Getae have left the most signicant

    historical and archaeological record.

    The lands of the Thracians were rich in

    natural resources. The dense woods gave

    Who Were the Thracians?

    them timber and game; copper, iron, gold

    and silver mines dotted the mountains.

    Healing mineral water springs lured the

    Thracians to settle around, and the fertile

    soil nurtured the famed local wheat, horses

    and vines from which the Thracians made

    strong wine.

    On the verge of the 2nd and the 1st

    millennia BC, the Thracians went through

    a crucial change of technolog y. Bronze was

    replaced by iron as the metal for tools and

    weapons. The new material made ploughing

    the land and cutting wood easier, faster

    and more productive, and the generally

    self-sufcient Thracian society found itself

    with more to sell on the market. The new

    weapons were better for killing people aswell, and as the Thracian aristocrats saw

    hunting, war and plundering to be the s ole

    activities worthy of men like themselves,

    they became richer.

    Iron changed culture too, spearheading

    the building of megaliths. In this period, the

    Thracians created a signicant number of

    dolmens, rock tombs and rock niches, and

    started

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    of Thracian sites: megaliths, monumental

    tombs, cities, fortresses. These lands were

    also closer to the Greek ones, and would be

    inuenced by the ancient Greek civilisation.

    At the end of the 6th and during the early

    5th centuries BC, this territory became the

    cradle of the rst and the biggest political

    entity the Thracians ever created.

    It was the Odrysian kingdom of King

    Teres I, a man who according to some

    sources lived to 92 years of age, led

    aggressive foreign policy, yet boasted that

    when he wasn't on a hunt or at war, he

    would be indistinguishable in appearance

    from his own stablemen.

    The history of the Odrysian kingdom

    is better known, thanks to Thucydides, thegreat historian of the 5th Century BC.

    In the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the

    Odrysian kingdom was a prominent actor

    in international politics, signing treaties and

    waging wars with Athens and the Kingdom

    of Macedonia. The Odrysian kingdom

    experienced its heyday in the 4th Century

    BC, under the kings Sitalces and Seuthes I,

    and spread far to the s outheast, southwest

    and northeast of the Balkans. It was so

    strong that even the Greek colonies on the

    Aegean coast paid it tributes.

    The game changed, however, in the

    mid-4th Century BC. Both King Philip II of

    Macedon and his son, Alexander the Great,

    invaded Thrace. Their power didn't last

    long, but had strong effects on the local

    economy, urban planning and culture. A

    number of cities, for example, were founded

    on the s ites of earlier Thracian settlements,

    the most famous of them is Philippopolis

    (modern Plovdiv), named after Philip II.

    The death of Alexander the Great, in 323

    BC, brought about the end of his empire,

    which fell apart in several chunks. Thracewas given to Lysimachus, one of Alexander's

    generals, but the change was seen by the

    Thracians as an opportunity for independence.

    Lysimachus tried, in vain, to secure his position

    in the eastern Balkans. In this period Thrace

    also drifted into the cosmopolitan Hellenistic

    world, where, just like today, people, goods,

    fashions and ideas moved freely.

    In Thrace, a number of independent

    kingdoms sprang, and urbanisation was on

    the rise. The graves became richer, lled with

    luxurious and imported everyday objects,

    weapons and jewellery, signalling the increased

    wealth of the elite. Seuthes, the king of the

    Odrysians, even built himself a capital in line

    with the latest Hellenistic urban fashion – and

    gave it his name, just like Alexander the Great

    did with the cities he had founded.

    At the beginning of the 3rd Century BC,

    Celts arrived in Thrace and even created a

    kingdom there. They had their capital at Tyle,

    but its location remains unidentied. The

    new settlers changed local culture, bringing

    in elements typical for Central Europe, like

    new fashions in jewellery and weaponry,mainly brooches, shields and swords.

    After the mid-3rd Century BC, Thrace

    fell spiralled into gradual decline, a trend

    which continued until the 1st Century BC.

    The Thracian tribes waged war against one

    another, and fought with the Greek colonies

    on the Black Sea coast. Thrace was also the

    scene of brutal ghts between the heirs of

    Alexander the Great, and although it was part

    of the bigger Hellenistic civilisation, it was

    still in its periphery and far from the glorious

    centres of culture and trade in Egypt, the

    Near East and the Mediterranean islands.

    As a result, most of the Thracian cities

    were abandoned and destroyed, and fewer

    aristocrats could afford expensive graves and

    tombs. The commoners had grown poorer.

    The 1st Century BC became the time of

    gradual subjugation by the Romans, who used

    the tools of politics to achieve their goal –

    from war to buying off local rulers, and from

    diplomacy to pitting local efdoms against one

    another. By 45 AD the whole of Thrace was

    already under the Romans, divided into the

    provinces of Macedonia, Moesia, Thrace andDacia. The Thracians lost their independence

    and became the subjects of the great empire.

    Some of the Thracians decided that

    enough was enough, and ed to the

    mountains, where they became itinerant

    herdsmen and stuck to their traditions and

    language. Others remained in the cities and

    the villages in the plain, making the most of

    life in a

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    12 

    Helmet and complete set of armour found in the grave of

    a Thracian aristocrat from the mid-4th Century near the

    Malomirovo and Zlatinitsa villages. The deceased died at

     the age of 18-20 years a nd was 1.84 m high. He was b uried

    with the classical bowed Thracian sword called mahaira ,

    177 bronze arrows, seven spears, a knitted breastplate

    made of iron and a bronze helmet decorated with a three-

    headed snake. A silver grieve with gilt and decoration of a

    human face was also buried with him

    The man from Malomirovo and Zlatinitsa was buried not

    only with weapons but also with expensive objects like this

    beautiful gold wreath, a gold ring picturing himself receiving

    immortality from the Great Goddess, and a set of silver and

    gilt drinking vessels. Dogs and horses were sacriced over

     the grave of the man, a nd for several yea rs afterw ards, the

     tumulus was the centr e of ritual activ ities

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    Bronze situla , or bucket, decorated with heads of Sylen, and

    a pair of silver bowls from the 4th Century BC were found

    in the Malkata Mogila, or Small Mound, near Kazanlak.

    The tomb where the deceased was buried was crude in

    construction, but his personal belongings were nely made,

    and included a gold ring and two sceptres with the form

    of a double axe, a symbol of royal power for the ancient

    Thracians

    Inset : Bronze mirror from the second half of the 5th

    Century BC from Kasabova Mogila, near Kazanlak. The

    mound was a curious nd – instead of a single grave, four

    groups of cremated human bones were discovered there.

     Whether they belo nged to the same indi vidual, or to

    different people, remains unsolved. During the 1877-1878

    Russo-Turkish war, ve Russian soldiers who fell in the

    defence of the nearby Shipka Pass, were buried in the

    mound

    Lavish gold decorations for horse harnesses found in

    Golyama Kosmatka Tomb, near Kazanlak, from the

    beginning of the 3rd Century BC

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    Shrines and Deities

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    Harmankaya

    King Ivan Shishman (1371-1393) and Ivan Asen; a miniature

    from the Ivan

    rocks found in these shrines – vulva-shaped

    caves and rocks resembling erect phalluses.

    The ancient authors have preserved, in

    their stories, the existence of a major and

    widely respected Thracian sanctuary. The

    Oracle of Dionysus resided in the lands of

    the Bessi, and its priestesses predicted the

    future with great accuracy, including the rise

    to power of men like Alexander the Great

    and the Roman emperor Augustus. The

    whereabouts of the oracle, however, remain

    a mystery.

    The deities worshipped in Thracian

    shrines are also difcult to identify. We know

    from Greek sources the names of some of

    the Thracian gods and goddesses – Zalmoxis,

    Cotyto, Bendis – and are told that theThracians also venerated Dionysos, Artemis,

    Apollo and Hermes. The anonymous

    Thracian God Rider Ppopular is also popular,

    mainly in votive tablets. But it is still unclear

    whether these deities weren't in fact just

    the multiple manifestations of the Great

    Goddess and the Great God. If you explore

    Thracian art, you will discover the recurring

    Another obstacle for deciphering

    Thracian history and religion is the

    notorious disunity of this people – the

    Thracian tribes were too numerous and

    too independent, and there was hardly a

    consistent religious system among them. In

    all probability, each of the tribes had its own

    set of beliefs, rituals and even deities.

    Yet, the Thracians have left something

    related to their religion which modern

    historians could try to "read": their shrines

    and the artefacts found in them. But doingso poses another danger. Enchanted by the

    beauty of the Thracian shrines, historians

    with hyperactive imagination often forget

    to exercise healthy scientic scepticism

    and start to "see" non-existent faces

    of imaginary deities, "nuptial beds" and

    "devil's throats" everywhere. The Thracian

    religious sites that have suffered from such

    overinterpretation are a legion, including

    Tatul and Perperikon in the Rhodope, and

    Begliktash in the Strandzha. Even natural

    phenomena like the rocks at Buzovgrad are

    now promoted in the media as the deeds of

    the ancient Thracians. Any oddly shaped rock

    all over the Rhodope may get advertised as

    an actual, larger-than-life, sacred sculpture of

    turtles, snakes and even sharks.

    But the lack of written sources and the

    difculties with dealing with actual sites does

    not mean that historians are co mpletely ata loss as to the Thracian religious heritage.

    In fact, Bulgaria is rich in marvellous and

    interesting Thracian shrines, which are at

    once a feat and a delight to see and explore.

    The most signicant Thracian shrines

    appeared in the Late Bronze Age (16th to

    12th centuries BC), sometimes at places

    with strong traces of previous religious

    activity, like Belintash and Perperikon in the

    Rhodope. These sanctuaries thrived through

    the 1st Millennium BC, and many were

    abandoned only when Christianity slowly

    prevailed between the 4th and 6th centuries.

    As a rule, these early shrines were built

    on naked, precipitous rocks, mainly in the

    Strandzha, the Sakar and the Rhodope

    mountains. Even today, one can see why.

    They stand out against the landscape,

    imposing a sense of incredibility, and are

    clearly visible from afar. The list of the

    most signicant sanctuaries of this type

    includes Perperikon, Tatul, Gluhite Kamani,

    Harmankaya, Belintash, Madzharovo and

    Orlovi Skali, all in the Rhodope.

    Many of these rock shrines are coveredwith countless canals, basins, pads, stairs

    and niches. They all represent the Thracian

    idea that the universe was created in the

    stone uterus of the Great Goddess when

    she was impregnated by the Great God,

    her son and lover, who also symbolises the

    sun. This hypothesis is backed by the almost

    anatomically correct features of natural

    Previous spread : Belintash shrine, near Asenovgrad, in the

    Rhodope

    This gold earring with the Goddess Nike in a chariot

    was buried together with her owner, possibly a Thracian

    priestess, in the 3rd-2nd centuries BC in a mound near

    modern Sinemorets, on the southern Black Sea coast. It

    was discovered in 2006 and is now in the National Museum

    of History in Soa

    Asara rock shrine occupies a rocky, overgrown height

    over Angel Voyvoda village, near Haskovo, and boasts

    several rock tombs. It was well preserved until the early

    1990s, but treasure-hunters have taken over, destroying a

    signicant portion of the site

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    or disgured, as if they, too, should be killed

    to please the gods.

    Temples are an important part of

    any shrine, but if you don't count theones found in the Greek colonies on

    the Black Sea coast, few such buildings

    have been positively identied in the

    Thracian heartland. Thracian temples

    have been disco vered on Nebet Tepe Hill,

    in Plovdiv; the sunken city of Seuthopolis,

    near Kazanlak; Cabyle , near Yambol; and

    elsewhere. According to an inscription

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    the Thracian Great Goddess, the one who

    created the universe and ruled it. Her

    presence can be seen everywhere: in the

     jugs and bowls of the Rogozen Treasure, in

    the frescoes and sculptures of the Sveshtari

    Tomb, on the paintings of the Kazanlak

    Tomb, on gold rings and elsewhere.

    The Great Goddess was also the one

    who sanctioned the political power of

    Thracian kings. In the Thracian society, themonarch or the chief of the tribe was also

    its main priest. He was seen as the earthly

    incarnation of the Great God, and would

    perform rituals of symbolical marriage to

    the Great Goddess.

    The ancient Greeks believed that after

    death all people were doomed to a gloomy

    existence as shadows in the sad kingdom

    of Hades. But the Thracians believed in life

    after death, and according to Herodotus,

    some tribes would rejoice so much when

    a person died that his wives would begin

    to quarrel for the honour to be killed and

    buried with him.

    Noble Thracians, supposedly the

    followers of the mystic teachings of

    Orpheus, were even deied after their

    death. This is why many shrines feature

    some sort of a grave or a tomb: dolmens,rock tombs, monumental tombs. These were

    more than sepulchres: they were also places

    for worship to the deied people buried in

    them.

    Sometimes, monumental tombs were

    also used as shrines, and there are numerous

    signs pointing to this interpretation. The

    monumental tombs all have corridors,

    implying frequent visitations, and sometimes

    had elaborate façades, as if they were built

    to be eye feast for the living, who would

    perform mysterious rites at the chambers.

    The stone thresholds of such tombs are

    found much worn out by the feet of

    countless visitors. In and around the tombs

    are preserved the remains of regular

    sacrices.

    In spite of centuries of worship, the

    barren, hard terrain of rock sanctuaries –

    combined with yet more centuries of

    treasure hunting – has left few artefacts

    for the archaeologists to study. The most

    common nds from Thracian shrines

    include pottery (whole or in shards), tools

    and weapons, animal bones, burned clayfrom the light buildings for the priests and

    the pilgrims. Some of these were made

    especially for the rituals: amulets and scaled

    models of tools, idols and tokens for ritual

    games. Yet more were objects for daily use:

    sickles and knives, pins and loom weights,

    millstones and coins, jewellery and weapons.

    Some of these offerings were ritually broken

    Remains of a man with severed legs, buried in a sacricial

    pit from the 4th Century BC in the sanctuary at Yabalkovo,

    southeastеrn Bulgaria. Human sacrice was quite common in

    ancient Thrace – the bodies of men, women and babies have

    been found, some of them were buried alive

    Right : A double rock tomb takes the highest place at the

    Tatul rock shrine, a symbolic representation of the idea that

    whoever is buried inside the man-made womb of the Great

    Goddess will be close to the sun, the element of the Great

    God

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    when reservoirs and dams were being built.

    These include the sites at Bratsigovo and

    Ognyanovo, near Pazardzhik. Scant Thracian

    artefacts are preserved in later, Roman

    shrines by sacred springs – for example,

    the temple of the nymphs at Kasnakovo,

    near Dimitrovgrad. The only consistently

    researched Thracian shrine by a s acred

    spring is the one under the Ottoman Demir

    Baba tekke, in Sboryanovo.

    The Thracian gods and their shrines

    started to fade from memory and life when

    Christianity took over the Balkans. But

    they never quite disappeared. Churches

    rose on the remains of a number of pagan

    shrines – for example, in Pliska, Madara

    and Montana – and many Thracian shrines

    are now venerated by Christians and

    Muslims alike (Perperikon, Gluhite Kamani,

    Demir Baba tekke, the Eski Mosque in Stara

    Zagora, which now houses a museum of

    religions). The ancient deities trans formed,

    too, entering local folklore and even

    inuencing the pantheon of Christian

    saints.

    Left : Begliktash megalithic shrine, near Primorsko

    The Great Goddess is depicted on this silver and gold

    greave from the 4th Century BC. It was discovered buried

    alongside its owner in a mound in Vratsa, northwestern

    Bulgaria. The fact that only one greave was in the grave of

    a young woman suggests it has it was a part of some ritual.

    The stripes on the goddess's face are interpreted as ritual

     tattoos. Accordi ng to Herodotus, the Th racians did tatt oo

     themselves

    pears, beehives and casks. Most often 1-2

    metres deep, they were lled with broken

    pottery, animal bones, ashes and embers. In

    about 1-2 percent of these , parts and even

    full human skeletons have been found. Some

    of the people in the pits were alive when

    they were thrown in, which gives credibility

    to the suggestion that they were sacriced

    to the Thracian gods.

    Again Herodotus sheds light on the

    archaeological nds. By his accou nt, when

    some Thracian tribes felt that their prayers

    needed more attention from the God

    Zalmoxis, they would stick spears in the

    ground, choose the best man among them,

    and throw him on the blades. While he was

    dying, they would sent their messages to the

    deities.

    Most researchers believe that the pit

    shrines were devoted to the cult of the

    Great Goddess. The holes symbolised her

    womb and provided connection with the

    spirits of the underworld and fecundity.

    The Thracians also venerated running

    waters and springs. Unfortunately, most

    of the shrines they erected near water

    have been lost mainly in the 20th Century

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    46 

    Monumental Tombs

    The sheer size of the massive mound, the

    claustrophobic space, the cold, the smell of

    times past: entering a Thracian tomb is one

    of the must-do experiences in Bulgaria.

    More than 200 monumental Thracian

    tombs have been discovered so far, and

    they have proved to be more than imposing

    burial structures. Besides the awe they

    inspire, they are also an important source

    of information about the funeral rites and

    religious beliefs of the people who built

    them.

    How the Thracians fell for monumental

    tombs is a question historians have yet to

    answer. Initially, the researchers thought that

    the Thracians were inspired by the much

    bigger and older tombs of the Mycenaean

    civilisation, which ourished in southern

    Greece between 1600 BC and 1200 BC.

    Other possible predecessors could be the

    dolmens and rock tombs in Thrace itself.

    But the relatively short period between the

    5th and the 3rd centuries BC, when the

    Thracians built monumental tombs, has led

    to the conclusion that the idea was probably

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    Thracian tombs were furnished with stone

    funerary beds, sometimes with pillows sculpted

    on them, and with a bunch of other furniture:

    stone and wooden benches, seats, altars.

    Expensive and time-consuming, tombs

    were used continuously by later generations,

    sometimes for centuries. Still, some tombs

    seem to have been destroyed deliberately or

    left unnished.

    In most cases, ancient and modern-day

    treasure-hunters hit upon the tombs before

    the archaeologists, emptying the monuments

    and breaking them. The examples of tombs

    untouched by intruders are too few, most

    notably the ones in the Mezek, Sashova

    Mogila and Golyama Kosmatka mounds.

    But the nds from the tombs still speak

    volumes about the life and death of the

    ancient Thracians. Expensive ceramic and

    metal vessels, made locally or imported from

    Greece, were buried along with weapons

    and lavish jewellery of silver and gold, to

    serve their owners in the afterlife. These

    objects were often ritually broken, as if they

    should "die" too.

    The remains of the deceased present

    another enigma. Complete skeletons are

    Left : The main scene of the murals of the Aleksandrovo

    Tomb from the end of the 4th and the beginning of the

    3rd centuries BC, near Haskovo, depicts sacred hunt

    Below right : Ostrusha Tomb from the 4th Century BC,

    near Kazanlak, is in a monolithic block which was hewn to

    resemble a small temple

    practically nonexistent, archaeologists

    usually discover only parts of them – for

    example, the skull, the femurs or odd bones.

    These often belong to different people.

    Actually, the Thracians had been

    doing this since the beginning of the 1st

    Millennium BC. The explanation for this

    strange ritual could be the Thracian Orphic

    rites of immortalisation and deication of

    priests, kings and distinguished persons.

    In order to achieve divinity, they were

    dismembered just like Orpheus, the

    supposed founder of this religion, was torn

    to pieces by the mad maenads.

    Ritually slain horses and dogs are

    often found at the Thracian tombs, buried

    separately or along with the deceased. Animal

    skeletons are usually found in anatomical

    order, but this has not always been the case –

    the horses and dogs found in the tombs of

    Sveshtari, for example, were decapitated.

    The people buried in these tombs with

    such pomp and ceremony were obviously

    men and women of high rank, including

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    Circles of Stone

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    Previous spread: The cromlech at Dolni Glavanak, in

     the Rhodope

    After years of neglect, restoration of the stone circle

    near Golyamo Zhelezare is now in progress

    Glavanak. Situated on a low ridge overgrown

    with thick oak forest, the stone circle consists

    of 15 rocks about 1.5 m high. Its diameter

    is about 10 m. Archaeological research has

    shown that the complex was built between

    the 8th and 6th centuries BC, and was in use

    until the end of Antiquity.

    Nearby, two smaller circles of boulders

    have been found.

    Why the megalith was built remains

    unclear. The usual explanation given to tourists

    is that it was a sort of observation post for

    watching the sunrise to calculate sacred dates

    in the Thracian calendar.

    The stone circle at Staro Zhelezare was

    discovered in 2002, under a pretty insignicant

    mound by the village's dump yard.

    It was a surprising discovery: 24 erect

    stones forming a circle with a diameter of 7 m.

    The slabs in the northern part of the circle rose

    up to 1.8 m; with one exception, the stones on

    the south were less than a metre high.

    According to Dr Kitov, the scientist who

    discovered them, the cromlech was erected

    in the 6th Century BC and was used for

    astronomical observations. Other researchers

    think that the circle was built around the 10th

    Century BC, and the tumulus was erected

    later to hide the stones, for a reason that's as

    yet unknown.

    Regardless of its scientic signicance,

    until recently the Staro Zhelezare stone

    circle seemed doomed to disappear. After

    the excavations ended, the dug-up cromlech

    was abandoned, his sole protection from the

    elements coming from a imsy cover. Soon, the

    roof collapsed and wind and rainwater started

    eating into what had remained of the mound.

    Several years after the discovery, all the slabs

    had fallen down and the undergrowth had

    taken over, hiding everything in tall grass and

    thorns.

    A structure which had survived for

    millennia was about to disappear.

    But in the past few years an NGO took

    interest in the site, and didn't spare effort for

    its preservation, conservation and further

    research with the main goal of restoring the

    slabs to their original places and building

    sufcient infrastructure to protect the site.

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    Sboryanovo

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    the Thracian world. Its three rooms have

    unusual barrel-vaulted ceilings. The burial

    chamber is decorated with a fresco of an

    imposing woman crowning a rider with a

    wreath. Sculptures of 10 caryatids line the

    walls of the room.

    Sculpted of limestone, the women have

    disproportionate bodies, intricately carved

    dresses and sturdy faces with wide-opened

    eyes, which captivate the visitor in the

    claustrophobically narrow chamber.

    Historians believe that the Sveshtari

    caryatids represent the all-mighty Great

    Goddess of the Thracians. She is also the

    tall woman in the fresco, depicted at the

    moment she brings immortality to the

    deied owner of the tomb. Relying on

    circumstantial evidence, some scientistsgo as far as to claim to know who the

    deceased was: King Dromichaetes, who

    ruled over the Getae between the end

    of the 4th and the rst decade of the 3rd

    Century BC.

    In 1985 UNESCO listed the Sveshtari

    Tomb as a World Heritage Monument. Due

    to preservation issues, visiting time in the

    tomb is strictly limited, and the site is closed

    in winter.

    For their part, the burial mounds

    in Sboryanovo hold more promises of

    interaction with the dead Thracians and

    their way of life. So far, more than 100

    tumuli have been identied h ere, giving

    some explanation why until recently the

    locals used to call the area The Land of the

    Hundred Mounds. Most of the tumuli are

    divided into two main necropoli. According

    to a hypothesis, their positions were chosen

    deliberately, making them a giant map of

    some of the constellations in the sky.

    In one of these groups, interpreted as an

    earthly copy of the Orion constellation, rises

    the 19-metre-high Great Sveshtari Tumulus.It was excavated in the 1990s and again in

    2004. The excavations led to the discovery

    of a monumental tomb with Doric columns.

    Built at the end of the 4th and the early the

    3rd centuries BC, the tomb was destroyed

    by an earthquake in the mid-3rd Century

    BC. In 2013, the Great Sveshtari Tumulus

    revealed other secrets: a buried wooden

    box containing exquisite gold objects

    weighing more than 1.5 kg, among them

    women's jewellery and harness decorations.

    According to some researchers, the

    tumulus and the tomb b elonged to Cothelas,

    the Gaetic king in the last decades of the 4th

    century BC who played an important role

    in the local politics and who got married,

    in 339 BC, his daughter, Meda, to the most

    powerful man in the world, King Philip II of

    Macedon. Other historians, however, believe

    that the gold objects have connection with

    King Dromichaetes.

    Sboryanovo was not only a place for

    the dead but also one for the living. On a

    narrow and conveniently defensible plateau

    by the Krapinets River, a walled city thrivedbetween the last quarter of the 4th and the

    middle of the 3rd centuries BC. Back in the

    day it was called either Dausdava or Helis

    (historians disagree on the exact name) and

    spread on over 25 acres. The city was the

    home of craftsmen making goods from iron,

    silver, gold and bone, and of people who

    The fresco in the burial chamber depicts the Great

    Goddess giving immortality to the owner of the tomb,

    on horseback. Riders had a key position in Thracian

    religious beliefs. A mounted man was often depicted

    in votive tablets, funeral art and expensive harnesses.

    Sometimes he personied the Thracian God Rider, and

    sometimes, as is the case with the Sveshtari Tomb, he

    represented a deied king or an aristocrat. The idea of

     the Thracian Ride r was so strong tha t it survived until

     the end of Antiqui ty and blended w ith the image of St

    George and the folklore hero Krali Marko

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    The 16th Century shrine of the Muslim sage Demir Baba

    was built over the remains of one of the major Thracian

    shrines in the area. The ancient boulders are still clearly

    visible

    Right: Mounds of all sizes abound in Sboryanovo

    reserve – until recently, locals called the area the Land of

    Hundred Mounds. Erecting a mound was a tiresome and

     time-consuming e nterprise . The ones higher than 15 m

    needed between two and six months to take shape. In the

    background stands the Great Sveshtari Tumulus

    enjoyed Greek wine and olive oil to such an

    extent that they left us the mos t extensive

    collection of imported amphorae ever found

    in ancient Thrace. The city gained additional

    importance by its position on an ancient salt

    trade road.

    The end of the Thracian city at

    Sboryanovo came with a bang. It was

    destroyed for good by a strong earthquake,

    about 250 BC.

    Today archaeological research of the

    remains continues, but the trenches and low

    stone walls are n ot particularly spectacular.

    The south city wall can be seen passing

    through the main road from the Sveshtari

    Tomb to the village of Malak Porovets.

    Another piece of the fortications, from the

    3rd to 1st centuries BC, is in the Polyanataarea, west of the Thracian city.

    Several shrines of the Getae have been

    identied in Sboryanovo. One of them,

    currently called Demir Baba Tekke, is a good

    example of how one set of beliefs has built

    on another, ensuring continuity of religions

    and superstitions.

    It all started with the Thracians who,

    between the end of the 4th and the early

    1st Century BC, created a shrine with rock

    altars and strong walls by the cold waters

    of a spring, now called the Five-Fingers

    Spring. When Christianity replaced paganism

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