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A REPORT ON (SUMMER INTERNSHIP PROJECT) By (ANKURSHUKLA, APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT- II) 1 | Page INSTITUTE OF APPAREL MANAGEMENT

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Page 1: A internship repor tof richa global

A REPORT

ON

(SUMMER INTERNSHIP PROJECT)

By

(ANKURSHUKLA, APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT-II)

(RICHA GLOBAL EXPORT PVT.LTD)

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

INDEX PAGE

TITLE PAGE..................................................................................................................................i

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS..........................................................................................................ii

ABSTRACT..................................................................................................................................iii

COMPANY PROFILE..................................................................................................................6

FACTORY LAYOUT....................................................................................................................7

ABOUT THE COMPANY............................................................................................................8

PRODUCT MIX............................................................................................................................9

WORL FLOW.............................................................................................................................11

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ..................................................................................................12

MERCHANDISING ...................................................................................................................16

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT ....................................................................................................21

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT....................................................................................22

FABRIC STORE..........................................................................................................................23

FABRIC INPECTION.................................................................................................................25

TESTING LAB.............................................................................................................................30

TRIMS STORE............................................................................................................................40

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT.............................................................................................44

MACHINE MAINTAINANCE..................................................................................................45

CAD DEPARTMENT.................................................................................................................48

MARKER MAKING...................................................................................................................51

SPREADING DEPARTMENT...................................................................................................53

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................54

TICKETING, FUSING, CHECKING, BUNDLING................................................................57

SEWING DEPARTMENT..........................................................................................................58

WASHING DEPARTMENT......................................................................................................61

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.....................................................................................................63

PACKAGING DEPARTMENT……………………………………………………………….64

REFERANCE, CONCLUSION..................................................................................................65

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TITLE PAGE:

A report is based on Six week internship at Richa global export Pvt. Ltd, Gurgaon,

Haryana.

Prepared by Ankur Shukla, APM, Sem-II, Institute of Apparel Management, Gurgaon.

The project will be in under the guidance of Mrs. Neera Chandra, professor and course

coordinator of APM, Institute of Apparel Management.

Date of submission on 30 July 2015.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

At the very outset, we find over selves fully engulfed in immense pleasure in expressing our

sincere and profound gratitude to Mr. Vijay Uppal (Chairman Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd)

and Gaurav Gupta for providing an opportunity to do this momentous internship in this

prestigious organization.

Secondly, we will be failing if we do not express our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Dilip (Manager

Personal Department & Administration), Mr. Vejendra Gupta (G.M Personal) for their

continuous support and encouragement and valuable guidance in doing this project, which would

be an unforgettable experience to us. Our overriding debt continuous to be for Mr. Adesh Giri

(Quality Manager), Mr. Sanjay Gupta (Quality Assurance), Mr. Dherendra (Production

Incharge), Mr. Bablu (cutting manager) and its cutting team, Mr. Mahendra Sharma

(Production head) for their support and help during the internship period.

Our institute I would like to express to our sincere thanks to Mrs. Neera Chandra (course

coordinator APM) and Mr. Sandeep Kumar (Programme Marketing Executive) for allocating

this organization and helping us out in the best possible way during the period of internship.

ABSTRACT

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Through critical and deep study, this report examines the all process and production system that

are used in Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd, India. It shows the analysis and comparison of

production system with respect to cost, quality and productivity. Since the function of sewing

department mainly depends on the type of production system, its selection needs to be done

carefully.

This study is based on analysis of all trims to packing department and production system. This

thesis also focuses on the positive and negative aspects of production system. It demonstrates that

the Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd has made significant progress towards comprehending the

necessity of proper production system which has implication on the productivity of an

manufacturing farms.

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COMPANY PROFILE

COMPANY NAME RICHA GLOBAL EXPORT PVT.

ADDRESS

PLOTNO-232,UDYOGVIHAR, PHASE -1

GURGAON, HARYANA-122015

TELEPHONE

+91-11-42306000, +91-124-4549600

E-MAIL

[email protected]

WEBSITE http://www.richagroup.com/

YEAR ESTD. 1977

OWNER MR. Vijay Uppal

DIRECTORS Mr. Vijay Uppal (Managing Director)

Mr. Vinay Uppal (Jt. Managing Director)

ANNUAL TURNOVER 90 MILLIONS

MARKET 100% EXPORT

FACTORY FLOOE SPACE 97,715 SQ.FT.FIVE FLOOR INCLUDING

BASEMENT

TOTAL WORKING FORCE 1800

MNTHLY PRODUCTION 2, 60,000 PCS.

FACTORY LAY OUT

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1. BASEMENT

a. Trims Store

b. Fabric Testing Lab

c. Purchase Department

d. Fabric Store

e. General Store

f. Cutting /CAD/CAM

g. Surplus fabric and accessory store

2. GROUNG FLOOR

a. Reception

b. Conference room

c. Personal department

d. Merchandising

e. Human resource

f. Sampling

g. Account

3. FIRST FLOOR

a. Finishing

b. Packing

c. Quality control

d. Export documentation

e. R&D

4. SECONG FLOOR

a. Product development

b. Production plan & control

c. Sampling

d. EDP(Electronic data processing)

5. THIRD FLOOR

a. Production Department

b. I Department

c. Quality Department

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ABOUT THE COMPANY

With a vision to lead, Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd emerged in the horizon of garment

manufacturing industry in the year 1979. Led by business acumen of the founder and the

competence of the workforce, it established itself as a name to reckon with not only in India but

also in the overseas destination.

Today, it is one of the leading garment manufacturing and exporters in India with state – of – art,

professionally, production unit covering 97,715 SQ.FT.FIVE FLOOR.

Ever since its inception, Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd has never looked back. Growing with

strength as well as value it has achieved the production capacity of 2, 60,000 PCS. Garments per

Month and a turnover of 90million USD per annum (ASSUMED).

At Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd, obligation involving human resource development, social&

environmental issue is a part of day to day chores. We take pride in the human resource that we

have.

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PRODUCT MIX

Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd uses a wide array of fabric to create distinct style for its buyer. From

naturals (cotton, linen, hojari, silk, wool) to synthetics (viscose, polyester, and polyamide) and

their blend, various fabrics are handled with the care they demand. Looking at the growing buyer

demand and the fast pace at which fashion moves today Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd has

developed a diverse and futuristic product mix.

HOW TO CREATE

Work at Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd happens very closely with the fashion forecast the design

team visit a number of fashion forms, seminars and exhibition like the premier vision, heimtex

etc. the designers are stationed in the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail

information, retailing trends, market share analysis, brand evaluation and other retail information.

Their range has a wide array of fabric from natural – cotton, Hojari, linen and wool, silk to

synthetics – viscose, polyester, blend and much more.

MAIN PRODUCT

Ladies : dresses, trousers, top, jackets etc.

Men’s : dresses, trousers, jackets, etc

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MAJOR BUYERS-

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WORK FLOW

BUYER

PRODUCT DEVELOPER

MERCHANT

SAMPLING

FABRIC

TESTING

MARKER PLANNING

SPERADING

CUTTING

BUNDLING

RESEARCH& DEVELOPMENT

PRODUCTION

WASHING

FINISHING&PRESSING

PACKING

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

This department is not buyer specific and for all work the buyer that company caters to. The major

role of this department is to getting business for the company. Foundation of all other department,

it assists in covering their ideas into reality.

First interaction of the buyer is with PD department, but in some case PD is directly done by the

merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as presentation for new

developing /line adopting to buyer, sample/mock developed are for style and design purpose and

measurement do not play measure role .if buyer select any of the style then further development

will be done by PD department, once order is been locked further follow up and communicating

regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned merchandiser.

CLASSIFICATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

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INTERNAL DESIGNING

TECH PACK

INSPIRATIONAL

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INTERNAL DESINGNING

Design development done in house. Product development is done on following basis:

MOCK OR SAMPLE WILL BE PREPARED FOR SELECTION

IF SELECTED THE MEETING SAMPLE WILL BE MADE

COSTING AND NAGOTIATIONS

SALESMEN SAMPLE

GRADING

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PASSED BY MERCHANDISER THEN FOR PD

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EXTERNAL DESIGINING

LINE ADOPTION WITH BASIC DETAILS

SAMPLE WILL BE MADE (2 PCS)

APPROVAL /COMMENTS

BUYER SENT A TECH PACK

THEN AGAIN PROTO SAMPLE MADE(3PCS)

FIT SAMPLE MADE ((3PCS)

APPROVAL / COMMENTS

BUYER WILL SENT FIT SAMPLE

SPECIFICATION

SIZE SET ARE MADE

APPROVAL

REVISE FIT OR SEALER SAMPLE IS MADE

ODER CONFORMATION

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IMPORTANT TERMINOLOGY

PCD (plan cut date)

GPT(garment packing test)

FPT(fabric packing test )

CUT OF DATE

GREEN TAG SAMPLE(means it is a production sample)

YELLOW TEG SAMPLE (means sealer/shipment sample)

WINDOW DATE

PPM (pre- production meeting)

MINUTES OF MEETING ( for any important discussion related to any particular issue)

TYPE OF SAMPLE

1. Proto sample 9. Reference sample

2. Costing meeting sample 10. Resample top sample

3. Catalogue sample 11. Pilot run sample

4. Salesman sample 12. Size set sample

5. Fit sample 13. Testing sample

6. Sealer sample

7. Per-production sample

8. Photo sample

Name above are the different type of sample used by different buyer.

TECK PACK CONTAIN

1. A pictorial representation of the garment 7. Garment description

2. Make up details 8. Style number

3. Sample size 9. Data sent

4. Fabric type 10. Data required

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MERCHANDISING

Merchandising or merchandiser means commodities or goods delts in by merchant. A merchant is

the person who acts as a link between buyer and vendor; he is the one who center and integral part

of a garment industry.

Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendor’s

company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of

garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production

and up to the shipment of the order i.ehe is the whole sole of the company. A merchant is a

fulcrum of the organization which involves coordinating and follow up against tight schedules. He

has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to

which the merchant is liable for the same percentage in the company profile.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Receive detailed information from buyer like detail, fabric type, quality and fiber

contains, trims requirements and quality, color details and various other details like

washing, printing, embroideries etc.

Make proto type, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing and

initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage

etc.

Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendment if any, confirm price, category, and

delivery schedule and required lead time etc.

Get the approval for sample and trims, prepare the time and action plan, prepare the fabric

and trim indent.

Coordinate with R&D and I E for further detailed R&D report; coordinate with PPC for

production planning, send order status to buying office at every stage.

Call for the production meeting; prepare the production file and take care of budget at each

stage.

Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and swatch is

taken firstly, it is observed in house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after

approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory.

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Denim approvals are taken in blanket pattern and approved samples will be used in packaging.

Role of Merchandiser-

Before staring the costing for a style merchandiser should consider the following:

1. Fabric consumption 5. Margin

2. Labor expenses (Calculated with the help of SMV) 6. Exchange rate

3. Thread consumption 7. Finishing & packing

4. Trims and accessories cost 8. CMT(cut make trim)

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

TECH PACK COMES FROM BUYER

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INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING

GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER

ORDER CONFORMATION

BUDGETING

PURCHASE ORDER

PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Richa Global Export Pvt.Ltd;

it is an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.

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WITH BUYER

RE SAMPLE /PROTO

TYPE APPROVAL

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL

GPT SAMPLE

TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL

SIZE SET SAMPLE APPROVAL

SHIPMENT INSPECTION AND

FINAL SHIPPING

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Po include the following information-

1. Delivery date 6. Terms if sale

2. FOB 7. Currency

3. Ship cancel date 8. L/C

4. Destination 9. Quantity

5. Ship mode 10. Size break up / color break up

RICHA GLOBAL EXPORT PVT.LTD USES WFX ERP SOFTWARE –

In company employee work on WFX ERP software for making challan, purchase order, indent

etc. it’s very simple and useful software.

COSTING

The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the tolal cost of

garment. It is the job of merchandiser to estimating the initial cost correctly and also negotiates

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the cost of production with buyer before he send his PO. The costing should be such that it suits

the buyer and also the export house. At the pre – production stage initial costing is done so as to

get an idea of cost likely to be incurred. After the buyer has placed this order and production

sample is approved then final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from CAD,

cost of fabric& trim etc.

A cost sheet includes:

1. Buyer name 4. Quantity

2. Style 5. Budget

3. Garment 6. Fabric description

Total cost fabric includes:

1. Greige fabric cost 6. Finishing

2. Cartage 7. Shrinkage

3. Dyeing 8. Wastage

4. Embroidery 9. Total fabric consumption

5. Washing

Accessories cost include

1. Main label 6. Poly bags

2. Wash care 7. Stitching threads

3. Price ticket 8. Embroidery threads

4. Tags 9. Beads, sequins, elastic, taps etc.

5. Cartons

Cost of company:

1. Margin

2. Overheads

3. Quota

4. Shipping cost

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also

called mock up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment.

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Sampling is a set of the procedure follow to produce various sample style. It contains activities

like making of the pattern for proto type according to measurement of the sample with the help of

machinery and getting buyers approvals for sample produce.

In an export house, the sampling department play vital role in the up- lifting of a unit. This

department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production dept. sampling is

done to see how the product will look when produce in bulk and to check discrepancies in the

pattern are.

STEP OF SAMPLING

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

FIT SAMPLE MADE

PP SAMPLE MADE

TOP SAMPLE

SIZE SET MADE

SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE

FABRIC SOURCING

SOURCING DEALS with getting information about material form different sources then

selecting the best material which suits over budget and buyer’s specification.

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Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the specification. Fabric

sourcing department is quite important as more than 90%of garment is fabric and approximately

70% cost of garment is due to the fabric cost.

Selecting the right quality of the fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it may lead to

cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing department

gets the fabric sample from the vendor. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for

approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is order for bulk production.

TYPE OF FABRIC

1. WOVEN FABRIC 2. WOOLEN FABRIC

Step followed for fabric purchasing:

1. Market trends enquiry

2. Vendor – folders in- house swatches

3. Display to buyer

4. After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling ( 5- 10 meter of fabric)

SUPPLIERS OF RICHA GLOBAL EXPORT PVT.LTD HOUSE

1. Yarn dyed – South India, Arvind, imported

2. Knits – Ludhiana, Delhi

3. Cotton – all over India

4. Wool – imported, Amritsar, Ludhiana, panipat

5. Silk/ poly/ viscose – Banaras, Bangalore, surat, Mumbai

6. Linen – Indian rayon, imported

7. Embroidery - Jaipur, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Amritsar

FABRIC STORE

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Fabric storehouse actual are where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched for

processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the inspection of

good receives by it.

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

FABRIC DESPATCH FROM MILL

FABRIC RECIVING

STORAGE

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SOLID /YARN DYED

/PRINTED

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYING OR PRINTING

100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARD

LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO MERCHANDISING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

KEPT IN STORE

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Rack system of storage is followed i.e. packages are stored in two areas:

1. Check fabric

2. Unchecked fabric

They are further segregated on the basic of style no. and lot wise. The fabric rolls are put in rack

manual way. Such systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make the fabric whenever

needed in future.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:

The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order, the

fabric source prepares a requisition for fabric as per the demand of the buyer and raises it to the

fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed.

The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricator for fabric production, buy greige for

dyeing or directly order processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development receives

the approval for the fabric, the vendor send it from of lot within the specified the time period and

the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold etc. each

consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, color, GSM, and weight. The

goods are weighted and other detailed are reconfirmed before they store.

FABRIC INSPECTION

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The fabric being the main contribution to development of our final product i.e. the garment, it is

very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and various present in it.

Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage to reduce the

production time. So once the fabric is in- house it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley

assembly to inspection.

Company use only 4 point system for fabric inspection.

4 POINT SYSTEM: 4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for

fabric quality inspection.

1. Fabric inspection method or preparation.

2. Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.

3. Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll.

4. A Check sheet or format for recording data.

5. Knowledge of different types of defects (how a defect looks and its appearance).

Criteria for giving penalty points

The penalty evaluation points have been given for different length of fabric defect and dimension

of holes.

SIZE OF DEFECTPENALTY POINTS

Length of defects in fabric (either length or width)

Defects up to 3 inches 1

Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches 2

Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches 3

Defects > 9 inches 4

Holes and openings(largest dimension)

1 inch or less 2

Over 1 inch 4

FORMULA TO CALCULATED TOTAL POINT PER YARD

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In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq.yds.

Points/100sq.yds – Total points in roll *3937

Fabric length in MTR * fabric width in inch

Example: A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains following defects.

4 defects up to 3 inch length

3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length

2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length

1 defect over 9 inch length

1 hole over 1 inch

4 x 1

3 X 2

2 X 3

1 X 4

1 X 4

4 points

6 points

6 points

4 points

4 points

Total defect points 24 Points

Therefore,

Points/ 100 sq. Yards

= 24*3937/109.72*46

= 18.72 points

120 yards in MTR – 120*.9144 = 109.72 MTR

POINT WILL BE DECIDED ACCORDING TO GROUP AND THEIR POINT

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IN GROUP ONE-

1. Polyester/ nylon/ acetate 5. Non stretch: lightweight denim

2. Filament rayon 6. Non stretch: mid weight denim

3. Worsted spun 7. Basic knitted fabric

4. Basic denim

IN GROUP TWO –

1. Canvas 5. corduroy

2. Poplin/ oxford gingham shirting 6. Velvet

3. Spun rayon 7. Flannel

4. Chambray 8. Stretch: denim/ corduroy/ velvet

IN GROUP THREE

1. All novelty fabric (jacquard/ bobby/ burnout etc) 6. Muslin

2. Silk fabric 7. Madras

3. Lace 8. Faux leather

4. Special knits (other than single jersey, interlock.) 9. Faux fur

5. Linen 10. Woolen spun

CATEGORY SINGLE ROLL SHIPMENT

GROUP ONE 18 POINT/100 PER MTR 14 POINT/ 100 PER MTR

GROUP TWO 24 POINT/100 PER MTR 19 POINT/100 PER MTR

GROUP THREE 30 POINT/100 PER MTR 24 POINT/100 PER MTR

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Other defect considered in fabric store:

1. Oil stain 4. Patchy

2. Weaving 5. Bowing

3. Dead cotton 6. Skewness

Every defect encounter is marked with the arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which

gives the detail about the defect found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large

poly bag and stick lot no. sticker, shade sticker.

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NOTE:

1. Lot will be prepared

2. Checking as per the norms of buyer

3. On case there is C and D category in passed lot, will rechecked again and rechecking

report need to be made.

4. In case lot will be failed then mill can replaced that roll with in the given of time period.

5. No fabric issue to cutting without QA sign.

6. Knits fabric check in kilograms.

MACHINE IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT

1. FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE: this machine is used for any type of fabric rolled,

checking defect and check fabric length and width. This unit has 3 machines with sensor.

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TESTING LAB:

Garment are made from fabric with help of sewing thread and no. of accessories like button, lace,

ribbons etc. are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment have uncertain

characteristics i.e. how they behave in condition like washing, sunlight, heat etc. when used by the

customer. Any undesirable change in fabric, thread or trims would detract the aesthetic value of

the garment and decrease its utility before time. Thus it became necessary to check or test

characteristics of this entire component under conditions to which they are susceptible to charge

or get damaged. Fabric and trims are tested for their quality, durability color fastness, dimensional

stability and physical known how. Goods are produced from the suppliers only when lab test

results confirm that they comply with the standard or requirement of the buyer.

The buyers are also specific about the method that has to be followed. AATCC and ASTM are

two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American association of textile

chemists and colorists) are given primarily for all color fastness and dimensional stability. ASTM

(American slandered for testing materials) covers all the physical tests.

ISO (international standard organization) is a European standard, which covers the color fastness

tests and the dimensional stability tests.

Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd has its own in-house fabric testing laboratory equipped with all

sophisticated instrument as per AATCC and ISO standard where tests on fabric, garment and

trims are conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in lab along with a

dark room for color matching.

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BASIC WORK FLOW

TESTING lab receives the fabric to be tested along with test request from either from fabric

sourcing department or the fabric (or garment form quality assurance/ merchandising department).

This from contains all the details like buyer name, style, sample description and vendor. A swatch

of fabric to be tested is passed on the form and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on

the no. and type of tests to be carried, fabric yardages are sent to be lab (almost ½ mtr to 2 mtr).

Testing is done on the behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the test to be conducted.

Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities. Each buyer has

Its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at a specified testing

laboratory or one nominated by the buyer itself.

Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to be relaxed, condition and acclimatizes to

the standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a variety

of test are conducted on the condition sample but some of tests like that of washing, crocking,

rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content etc. are necessarily

Carried out for every fabric/ garment. Following is a list of test carried out in the lab:

COLOR FASTNESS TO Washing(30, 40, 49 Degree )

Crocking/ Ribbing

No Chlorine/ Chlorine Bleach

Actual Laundering

PHYSICAL TEST TO Count

Construction

Fabric Weight

Twist Per Inch

Spirality

Tensile Strength

Tearing Strength

General Garment Appearance Pilling Test

Dimensional Stability After Washing

CHEMICAL TESTS TO Fiber Content

pH Of Water Extract/ Surface pH

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CONCEPT OF GREY SCALE

Color fastness and pilling test require grading of the result to draw objective inference of the

behavior of the fabric or garment. Grading means comparing the tested and the standard fabric.

This is done with the help of grey scale.

Grey scale standard are two types:

1. One that is used for testing the variation in color.

2. The other is that used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain before and

after wash or cleaning.

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WORKING INSTRUCTION FOR DIFFERENT

1. SHRINKAGE

If an extreme shrinkage rate occurs then a test on every roll will be performed. The result

collated separated in to shrinkage group of +/- 1.5% range. Separate pattern will be made

of each group. The QA manager will communicate such information to CAD/CAM,

cutting and sewing section. A fabric shrinkage test report is maintained for this purpose.

FOEMULA: a 50 cm. mark is made in warp and weft direction. The sample is washed in

water at normal temperature for 45 minute and an hour then taken out and dried. The

marks made are measured again to fine out the shrinkage.

2. GSM CUTTER AND WEIGHT BALANCE

GSM – Gram per square meter

The GSM is finding out by using weighing machine on which the fabric sample cut by the

GSM cutter is kept and value displayed. The GSM is calculated using the following

conversion.

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GSM = VALUE *100

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3. BEASLEY BALANCE

The instrument is used to calculate the DIRECT COUNT (count, the no. that determines

the fineness and coarseness of the yarn).

Working principal: is based upon “FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEM” .in which there is a rider

having fixed weight of 0.004 grams.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample of length 10 cm. in both the direction i.e. warp as well as

weft.

Take out the thread with help of needle.

Weight the no. of thread and when get balanced, this gives the direct count.

4. PICK GLASS

The EPI and PPI constitute the fabric construction. It is find out manually by using a pick

glass or by cutting a “1 * 1” sample and counting its yarn the warp and weft direction.

5. TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

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Construction = warp * weft

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This instrument shows the resistance of fabric against wearing and tearing.

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimension according to the template in both warp

and weft directions.

Place the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tearing strength tester. One

jaw is fixed and other is movable.

The sample below the bottom jaw is cut with the help of blade.

The machine is unlocked.

Note the reading when the fabric tears.

The reading comes in Kg. convert it into oz/yd square.

When E lbs: reading * 0.0705 1 oz = 28.3495231 grams

P lbs: reading * 0.0705 1 yd2 = 0.8361274 m2

6. TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

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Tearing strength: E LBS * P

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This instrument is used to give the resistance the normal loading.

Principle used: CRE (constant rate of E elongation)

Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimension 12cm. * 1.5” in both warp and weft

directions.

Placed the fabric sample in between the two jaws of the tensile tester. One is fixed,

while the other is movable.

Unrevealed the fabric along the length up to 0.25” along the width of the fabric.

Set the pointer to zero and start the machine.

Note the reading come in Kg is converted into lb.

Note – 1 lbs = 0.4535 kg

Where E lbs: warp * 2.2 LBS P lbs: weft * 2.2 LBS

7. CROCKING FASTNESS

This test is done to find out the resistance of color against rubbing.

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Tensile strength: E lbs * P lbs

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Working instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions 20 cm * 5 cm.

Place the sample on the plate of the machine and fix it with help of and screws.

Take the white bleached tested cloth as per the standard specification.

Put this cloth on the bulb of the machine testing.

Give the 10 rounds in to and for motion with the help of rotator.

Take out the test cloth and grading is done with the help of gray scale.

Similarly, the wet rubbing fastness can be calculated by wetting of the test cloth.

Table crocking fastness

5.0 = Excellent (No Color)

4.0 = Good (Light)

3.0 = Moderate (Medium)

2.0 = Poor (Dark)

1.0 = Very Poor (Full Color)

8. DIGITAL PILLING TESTER

Used for predict the pilling behavior of the fabric or garment after its use.

Work instruction:

Clean the boxes thoroughly.

Place four mounted test specimens in each box and close the boxes.

Set the machine revolutions till.

Start the machine & let it run, it automatically stops.

Take out the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating standards.

9. LAUNDROMETER

This machine is used to check the fastness of fabric against washing.

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Work instruction:

Take the fabric sample having dimensions 10 cm * 4 cm.

Then, cut white cotton sample having dimensions 5 cm * 4 cm and stitch it on both

sides of the test sample.

Then, put the test sample into the containers of the launder meter.

Run the sample with required amount of detergent and M: L ratio according to the

test method required by buyer.

Take out the fabric the launder meter after the required time and then grading is

done according to the grey scale.

10. HOT AIR OVEN

Work instruction

Set the temperature at the desired ageing temperature and switch on the electric

supply.

Open the door of the oven and place the specimen on shelf.

Allow the temperature of the oven to the desired test temperature.

Then the desired temperature is reached note, the time.

Allow the test to continue uninterrupted for the specified duration of time.

At the end of this period, switch off the power supply and take out the sample.

Conduct the required test and find the result.

11. pH METER

Work instruction

Connect the instrument to electric supply.

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Put the selector switch to STAND BY. The instrument should read 000.

Instrument is now ready to use.

Connect to connection pH electrode to the input socket.

Set the selector switch to the pH position. Wash the electrode with distilled water

and dip the combined electrode in the solution under test.

Set the temperature. The display shows the value of solution directly the pH unit.

12. SHADE MATCHING

Head ends, approx. 6 inches long will be cut from every inspection roll and will be used to

determine shade variation at the beginning middle and roll side shade variation checks and

also carried out at this stage by comparing the two side of fabric roll closer to the selvedge.

A color box is used for an accurate detection of shade variation. Depending on the buyer

requirement either primary light (day light, horizon Inca) or secondary lights (cool white/

CWF, ultra violet) is available for use. If the inspection reveals a significant shade

variation within the roll, such rolls either will be rejected or special marker are made row

avoid/ minimize shading in garment as the case may be and the information recorded in

the inspection report.

There is some other testing which play very crucial role in apparel export industry:

Salvia test in kids garment

Button pull test

Bowing test

Skewing test

TRIMS STORE

Trims store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for accessories. It is

the place where all the accessories required in an export house, are stored. Right from sewing

thread, needles to packaging material mike poly bags and taps etc. all are stored in the accessories

store.

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The merchandiser as per buyer specifications order the purchase dept. to buy the accessories that

are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a swatch card containing all the

accessories and their quantity in a cycle. These accessories used in the swatch card are as per the

quality and color mentioned and approve by the buyer. The purchase dept. with help of swatch

card prepared by the merchandiser purchase the required quantity of accessories. The accessories

are purchased 10 – 15% extra then the required, as the wastage in case of accessories is more. The

receiving dept. then receives these accessories from the vendor and then checking and testing of

these accessories are done. They are checked quality and color. The accessories like buttons are

tested with help of button snap tester. After all accessories are checked and tested as per the

buyer’s specification then an accessories approval card is prepared.

After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The accessories are stored

in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are stored in one rack but the different

accessories are stored separately from each other in the same rack. The accessories store also

houses the stationary required in export house.

Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are issued to the

production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used for maintaining records.

Thus an accessory store function as a store house for accessories where all accessories are

assembled and kept and also issued to sampling and production dept. for the garment

manufacture.

WORK FLOW OF ACCESSORIES STORE

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ACCESSORIES/ TRIM ORDERING AND THEIR APPROVAL

Thread ordering and approval:

For ordering thread, merchandiser has to match the color standard or approved lab dip or

initial bulk fabric with the shade card of the supplier company, if not matched then lab dip

for thread will be done.

Thread approval is taken through thread runs. Thread run means running of different

thread option matching with the color standard or approval lab dip or initial bulk fabric

used for production.

Button ordering and approval:

For ordering button, its line, color, finish and quality should be matched with color

standard or approval lab dip or initial bulk fabric.

Hanger and sizes ordering and approval:

These are ordered according to the buyers sizes.

Poly bag and carton ordering and approval:

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Poly bag are ordering according to length, width and height of the garment and carton are

ordered as mentioned in PO and DCPO.

Labels ordering and approval:

As labels are different type, so it should be ordering according to buyer requirement only

wash care label is ordered after G.P.T.

Zipper ordering and approval:

For ordering zipper, its teeth width, tapes quality and color and important elements should

be matched with quality and color standard or initial bulk fabric.

Other accessory ordering and approval

Other accessory like fusing, twill tape shoulder pads, price tickets and hang tags ordering

as other are done.

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing the production

of a company with minimizing the cost.

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Various tasks performed are:

To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to buyer.

Line balancing

Calculating thread consumption

Time study

Creating operating breakdown

Find out SMV

No. of machine

Helper required

Sketching layout for production

To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line

Calculating daily efficiency of the unit

Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency

Fix the target production

Decide the type of the machine and work aids attachment requirement for particular

operation

Machine breakdown

To monitor hourly production

Hourly line tracking status

R&D lends hand in the following:

SMV (standard minute value) per operation and garment

Thread consumption

Operation breakdown /operation bulletin(OB)

Making production feasible, viable as well as friendly

Saving cost

Any garment or order received through specimen or GSS is send to R&D department. The

garment or GSS is then analyzing by the expert team to see the viability of the order and also to

advice ways of executing the order. An operating bulletin is prepared on the basis of which SMV

is calculated by using GSD (garment sewing data).

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GSD (Garment sewing data)

GSD is software which was first development and installed in 1976. It is developed by UK based

company to find out the SMV. It is based on PMTS (predetermined motion time system) which

Divide/break into elemental part equated to 45 codes in software according to operation i.e. time

value.

1 min. = 2000 TMV 1 sec = 27 TMV

Parameters of GSD

L = Length P = Precision stop

GT = guide and tension

SMV is calculated on the basis of work done through:

Machine operation Manual operation

GSD provides:

Predetermined motion time system to a variety of industrial and electrical sectors.

Regular contact and assistance with system application.

Regular system upgrade.

MACHINE MAINTENANCE

A part from having quality system and the best practices, ‘machine maintenance’ is also a very

important area to get quality product. Unacceptable quality of product often results from ill

maintained machine. Breakdown and preventive maintain is primarily aimed toward reduced

downtime and increase life respectively proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid

causalities at the floor.

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Care of the fitting Machine configuration charts

Adjusting setting Needle movement chart

Oil changing laser stock

Outward/ inward reports Needle log chart

The fabric used the percentage of needle time, the speed of machine and operator handling are the

factors, which determine how often the machine requires cleanings. On the floor, the maintenance

shop has a maintenance card for each machine, listing the data a mechanic serviced the machine,

who serviced it, what was done to it and why, a series of similar repairs occurring sooner than

normal would signal maintenance that something is radically wrong with the machine or that the

machine is being misused by the operator and the matter is checked out immediately. The general

procedure for preventive maintenance of sewing machine involves the following steps.

Remove the face plate and clean it.

Remove the needle plate clean the feed dog.

Remove the belt guard and clean it.

Adjust the V- belt tension.

Control panel cleaning:

Clean the PC board with soft brush. Do not clean with blow air or use suction device.

Clean the synchronizer properly

Keep the sewing table clean

Do not allow anyone to put the sticker on the table.

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The maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise. Every production floor is provided with a

team of two mechanics, one assistance and one helper, which take care of the day to day

maintenance, break down and setting of the machine. Whenever there is a breakdown of the

machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is

replaced with new machine from the stock so that production is not disrupted. Oil checking is

done on weekly basis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machine is done every three

months.

A workshop in this department caters to the need of the making new folder, guides and modifying

other attaching as developed by the R&D department for better production. It is also the operation

theatre for the machines.

Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities. Its purchase action has

track of every inventory including a needle present in the factory stock and procures new

inventory whenever needed.

The types feed used in the machine:

1. Top feed

2. Drop feed

3. Variable feed

4. Puller feed

5. Compound feed

6. Reverse feed

The type of beds available:

1. Flat bed 3. Post bed

2. Cylinder bed 4. Feed of the arm

The attachments used:

1. T – guide 14. Edge foot

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2. Sewing guide 15. Zipper foot

3. Magnetic guide 16. Plait folder

4. Three corner guide 17. Plait binder

5. Bearing elastic holder 18. Top stitch attachment

6. Right ape stands 19. Cuff setter

7. Top tape stands 20. Waist band folder

8. Bottom tape stands 21. Piping binder

9. Right compensation pressure foot 22. Edge binder

10. Lift compensation pressure foot

11. Double compensation pressure foot

12. Quilting foot

13. Teflon foot

CAD DEPART M ENT

CAD stands for computer aided design. It is done of the most important department of export

house. This department acts as a “service department” for merchandising, sampling and cutting

department. The working of these three departments is highly depends upon CAD department.

Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead.

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CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of to develop analyses or modify

any engineering or garment design.

Basic Software which is used for computer aided designing in Richa Global Export Pvt. Ltd is as

follows:

1. Modaris

2. Diamino

3. Optiplan

1. Modaris

This software performs the following functions:

Pattern making

Pattern modification

Pattern digitizing

Pattern grading

With the help of this software we can export and import pattern to another place in soft copy.

2. Diamino

This software is used for marker making. It can be manual or automatic. Efficiency of

marker as decided as per the garment in this seam allowances are also added.

Function per formed by this software are as follows:

All markers with minimum wastage.

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Solution of problems created due to center selvedge, length variation and side

selvedge with best efficiency.

3. Optiplan

This software is used when buyer send uneven ratio. Functions performed by Optiplan are:

Main equipment used in CAD

Pattern pieces

Digitizer

Software

Plotter

MARKER MAKING

A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for size of specific style that are to

be cut from a single spread.

Marker making is a process of developing a diagram which is superimposed on the top of a

ground of superimposed piles as a guide for cutting these plies.

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It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric and distribution

sizes.

Cut order planning determines:

How many markers are needed?

How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies that will be cut

from each marker?

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT

PATTERN ENGINEERING

An examination of the seam location to ensure the possible placement of pattern in marker

HEM ALTERATION ALLOWANCES

Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped pattern into two pieces to better

accommodation in the marker.

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THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH

The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric width/ square

meter, the typical number of size in a marker, the potential pattern engineering changes at

various width and the marker efficiency achieve.

WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING

SPREADING

LAYERING

CUTTIN G MANUAL/ AUTOMATIC

TICKETING

FUSING

CHECKING

BUNDLING

TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

SPREADING DEPARTMENT

Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of specified length.

After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for further processing. Spreading is

done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker issued by CAD dept.

PROCESS FLOW OF SPRADING:

FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

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PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

VACCUME IS TURN ON IN THE SPERADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC / MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE

PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUME IS TUREND OFF

MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

TRANSFERRED TO THE CUTTING TABLE

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with the help of

cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in different no. or as a whole to make

a complete product. The first stage in the manufacture if garment is the cutting of material into the

necessary pattern shapes. These patterns are joined to form a garment when large amount of

garment style has to be cut, a lay is created, which consist of many piles of fabric spread one

above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all sizes are from this lay. The main objective of

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the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment parts accurately and economically and in sufficient

value to keep the sewing room supplied with work.

Objective:

To maintain the quality of the cut components.

To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.

Availability of cut components on time.

Types of cutting devices:

2 fusing machine

6 straight knife

1 band knife

1 spreader

4 edge cutter

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager.

Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from

the spreads. It comes in from of a package file that carries the following details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other trims

averages.

2. Measurement sheet

3. Design worksheet of the garment

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4. Purchase order

5. Fabric requisition sheet

6. CAD mini marker

7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be

cut.

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CUTTING AVERAGE

The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is responsible for

keeping control over the total consumption of fabric per garment piece cut this consumption is

more specifically defined in terms of cutting average. During marker planning, the CAD rule

sends theoretical consumption of fabric as per its marker, which is calculated as following:

Cutting average = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square)* GSM of the fabric

10,000

Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each garment.

Hence it is very important that it is maintained airing the bulk cutting also. The cutting manager

finds out his actual cutting averages before the bulk cutting and tries to keep it close as possible to

average predicted by the CAD.

CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENT

1. Layering and spreading

2. Cutting

3. Bundling and ticketing

4. Fusing area

5. QA department

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TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut components are

group together as per their sizes and taken to the checking table. Here the cut components are

inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts of

fabric are not mixed up. This is because within lot there bolt to bolt variation in color shade.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the

bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to size of the component to be fused.

The component along with the cut fusing material are kept between to paper sheets and the pack is

passed through the fusing machine by means of temperature and pressure fusing takes place at

particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors and

the pieces are removed and re-bundled.

Parameters affecting the fusing process:

Pressure – Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact between

the interlining and cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to the adhesive. Pressure

should be adequate for the correct penetration of resin among the fibers of fabric.

Temperature – It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin used

in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry thermoplastic resin into a

molten state so that it can flow properly between the fabrics. If temperature is low it gives

proper low of resin and if is high it gives to much flow of resin and the resin will come

out.

Time – Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure. It should be

long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibers of fabric can takes

place.

CHECKING

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The ticked panels are now sending to the checking are for inspection of every individual pieces

for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate size,

incorrect shape and any fabric defects likes holes, cut , shade, variation etc. That are not within the

acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report

is filled for the total quantity cut, checked and approvals. The rejected pieces are sent back and

equal no of trash panel are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no. as the

rejected once. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These

will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using tie. The

size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each bundle will contain

pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks made beneath the cutting

table. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production dept. as and when ask

for. The cut component may be issued in installment or all at once as the needs of the production

dept. against the job order.

SEWING DEPARTMENT

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The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit level.

Production is an act of producing i.e. quantity obtained by multiplying two quantities to gather by

making use available resources.

To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or material & output good

and service is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each other. Therefore an increase

in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in profit.

The production department is spread in two floors, ground floor and first floor is for jacket, blazer

and basic garment. Both floors have common cutting dept. so all the sizes of bundles are received

from there only.

Production floor follows assembly line system. Following are steps to start a production line.

To study the production file.

To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly.

Manpower – operators, checkers, quality controller and helper.

Load and feeding line.

To arrange buffer or work – in – progress.

Manufacturing.

To make daily production and to achieve target accordingly.

To understand bottlenecks stage of production.

Working steps of production department:

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Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept.

Ready pattern are made as per the requirement of production room.

Cutting received from cutting dept.

Cross checking of cut panels with patterns.

Bundling of cut panels is done.

Operation wise feeding of cut angels into the line.

Inline checkpoint

Output of line

Final checkpoints.

Auditing of checked pieces.

Some important production points:

Ratio between worker and machinery

Bottleneck area to be considered

In most of machine, guide is there

They are using cartons to moving bundles

They generate report for broken needle

Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a record sheet,

which show early target input, actual input, target output and actual output, according to

this can find out bottleneck area.

PRODUCTION CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN ONE WAY

1. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM:

In this production system a garment is being by no. of workers, therefore one part is

stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which line gets setup. In the end

assembly of the parts is done, in modern industries conveyor belts are used as a medium of

transportation of garment part from one worker to another. This system is very commonly

used in industry as it reduces the manufacturing cost increase the production.

WASHING

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Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty and stain,

thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value, they are subjected to

cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning. Garments are sent for washing by the production

department as per the buyer’s requirement. Normally the fabrics are not asked to go for wash by

the buyer. Whether the fabric department may internally sent it a number of other reasons.

1. To control uneven shrinkage 5. To even out color shade variations

2. To remove bowing 6. To remove printing smell

3. To lighten color shade 7. To execute a dyeing program

4. To improve hand

TYPE OF WASHING

1. Normal washes 5. Acid wash

2. Garment wash 6. Monkey wash

3. Enzymes wash 7. Emery balls wash

4. Stone wash 8. Silicon ball wash

METHOD OF DRYING

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The choice for the method of dying depends upon the dimensional stability of the fabric as

predicted by the fabric sourcing dept. accordingly there can follow methods:

Tumble drying – refer to the drying in a machine called tumbler.

Drip –drying – refers to drying the garment by directly hanging them after washing i.e.

without hydro. For this kind of drying the load is removing from the washer just before the

water begins to drain for the final spin cycle. The garments are removing soaking and drip

dried.

Line drying – here, the garments after washing undergo for hydro and then hang for

drying.

Flat drying – refer to drying the garment by laying it flat on a surface. It is usually carried

out for highly unstable fabric material.

WASHING MACHINERY

Horizontal washing machine – this machine is being used for washing garments and

fabric rolls. Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash, bleaching for dye,

stripping are done in this machine.

Front loading washing machine – this machine is used foe washing only. All type of like

normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash can be done in this too. Fabric lots are not washed

in this machine.

Hydro – the garment are wrung in these machine to remove excess water after washing.

The garments are spun in drums which rotate at high speed squeezing the water out of

them. This process takes about 3 min.

Tumble dryer – this machine evaporates out all the left over water from the garment

making them completely dry. Tumbling is carried out for about half an hour depending

upon the fabric quality and temperature about 60c which subsequently drops 35-40 c as the

steam is exhausted.

FINISHING

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After assembly, the garments now come for finishing – a key stage of garment manufacturing

process. Finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of

the buyer before packing it for shipment.

PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION

WASHING

THREAD CUTTING

INTIAL CHECKING AND SPOTTING

ALTERATION

REIRONING

FINAL CHECKING

PRESENTATION/FINAL IRONING

MEASUREMENT

SENT FOR PACKING

BASIC WORK FLOW

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WASHING, PERC – according to the buyer’s demand or as per the buyer specifies

recipes and the method to be employed. The pieces are count and sent with the asg or

PERC program.

Thread trimming – pieces received from the washing department or from the assembly

line now come for thread trimming where trails of thread are cut off from the seams,

buttons etc. manually with the help of trimming scissor.

Spotting – during the assembly, the garment may acquire stain and other objectionable

marks which must be removed. This is done either in washing department or they are

locally ‘sported off’. Objectionable stains like that of chalk are spotted by means of

spotting guns containing mild solvent. Harder and stubborn stain(like that of tobacco, rust,

dye, kerosene etc) are sent to the spotting room where they are cleansed under the spotting

machine in a protective environment. If the spots still don’t go then they are sent for perc

or dry cleaning.

General checking – now the garment comes for general checking relating to overall

stitching. Here, first the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the

garments; balancing of the parts; color variations etc. then any seaming defects are

recognized for example unmade seams, missed stitches etc. as per requirement the checked

pieces are send for mending to assemble line. The production manager gives a top sample

to checkers as a visual aid.

Final thread cutting – minute thread like those of labels, bar tack etc. are trimmed off to

give the neat look. Thread loosely sticking to the garments is also shed off, both in and out

by jerking the garment before it goes for pressing.

Pressing – pressing in general is shaping the assemble material with pressure, with/

without heat and moisture, for further processing. In case of knits, this is important but not

as significant as in the case of woven because of their property of excellent recovery and

fit.

Measurement and final checking – this is the final and most stringent done for garment

measurement, appearance, labels, trim etc to study the final look and shape the final look

and shape of the product produced. Measurements are done according to the specification

sheets and recording are made for any variations in the measurement chart. This gives an

overall idea about the quality of the garment being produced.

PACKAGING

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Packing is the LAST STAGE WHERE THE FINISHED GARMENT ARE PRIMED,

Organized, geared up for the shipment to the buyer, the entire process from the way a garment

will be folded to the final labeling of the cartons is dictated by buyer’s specifications. These

instructions are standardized for a particular type of garment and sent to the merchandiser in

from of a packing manual. The merchandiser forwards it to the packing in charge along with a

top of production sample i.e. packed with dimension approved by the buyer. This is kept as a

visual reference for the packers.

PROCESS FLOW OF PACKING

GARMENT COMES FROM INSPECTION

IT IS THEN FOLDED

1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER

ALL PIECES PUT IN TO CARTONS

DETAILS ARE PASTRD ON CARTONS

CARTON IS SEALED

LODED INTO TRUCKS

SENT FOR SHIPMENT

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Conclusion-

In review this internship has been an excellent and rewarding experience. I have been able to meet and network with so many people that I am sure will be able to help me with opportunities in the future. One main thing that I have learned through this internship is time management skills as well as self-motivation. When I first started I did not think that I was going to be able to make myself sit in an office for eight hours a day, six days a week. Once I realized what I had to do I organized my day and work so that I was not overlapping or wasting my hours. I learned that I needed to be organized and have questions ready for when it was the correct time to get feedback. From this internship and time management I had to learn how to motivate myself through being in the office for so many hours. I enjoy this line of work, I will continue to work hard in my position and hope to continue to learn about the Garment export industry and meet new people. This was an excellent experience and I hope that other interns got as much out of it as I did.

I had the opportunity to learn about a great company. The workers are truly passionate about the project and they passed on at passion to me.A huge thank to HR. Department and Production Department.

REFERANCE

WWW.GOOGLE.COM

http://www.richagroup.com/

http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/

http://garmentsproduction.blogspot.in/

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