A VIEW ON

MASCULINITY

2014

3Recent media reports and a renewed interest in the female agenda would have us believe that men and masculinity are facing a crisis. Traditional roles and responsibilities such as the male as breadwinner no longer necessarily apply, social and cultural norms are shifting but is it a catastrophe or an evolution for men?

Using an interactive online platform we conducted a brief study examining the lifestyles and attitudes of twelve men living in the UK. This report is intended to provide a flavour of the research that Seymourpowell carry out and offer a snapshot of the current and emerging landscape of masculinity.

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Redefining RolesAmorphous Man

Roles can no longer be expected to remain static either. Just as the notion of a job for life has eroded, partners and parents can expect their roles and responsibilities to be more flexible - responding to changing circumstances, individual desires and priorities.

Hanna Rosin refers to this fluid phenomenon in her book The End of Men; the prevailing arrangement now is a constantly shifting equationwhat I call a see-saw marriageeither can play the role of breadwinner for any period. Rosins book title is perhaps a little provocative and whilst it may not be the end of men, could it be the end of men as we have previously known them?

Fluid and Flexible

Cultural and social shifts towards greater equality, the rise of female independence alongside recent economic turbulence has seen traditional gender norms shaken up. No longer necessarily the breadwinner, men are now equally at home in the kitchen as they are in the garage. Partners choose to divide their roles by individual strengths, passions and skills rather than by gender expectations or stereotypes.

I think (and hope) roles in my relationship are reasonably equal. The garden is my wifes domain as the kitchen is mine; through preference rather than any sense of gender stereotyping.

Martin, 45

12 Individuals

Our twelve participants represent a spectrum of ages and values. Ranging from 21st century hunter gatherer, bow tie designer to full-time dad, we selected them for their progressive lifestyles and perspectives on the subject of masculinity to give us an understanding of current and emerging trends.

From left to right, top to bottom: Johannes, 30, Lecturer & Writer | Matt, 27, Fashion PR | Charles, 34, Social Media Consultant & Bow-tie Designer | Nick, 31, Adventurer in Food & Foraging | Martin, 45, Teacher & Triathlete Prenash, 41, Teacher | Tom, 24, Art Director | Alex, 38, Full-time Father | Brendan, 21, Student | Fraser, 41, TV & Film Costume Designer / Fashion Business | Tim, 47, Park Ranger | Roland, 38, Motion Graphics Designer & VJ

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Whilst flux can open up new opportunities, it can also be perplexing, especially for young men defining their identities and roles in society. Contemporary culture is full of contradictions on one hand, men are encouraged to be emotionally open, on the other, they are admired for their strength and stoicism. The sexual objectification of women is so frowned upon in society, yet so abundantly accessible in the domain of online porn. Is a scantily clad singer objectified or empowered by her outfit? Mixed messages can be confusing for young minds who need guidance in order to nurture appropriate attitudes.

Some fathers, recognising their importance as role models, are consciously trying to raise a more open-minded generation. Prenash, a father of two has

actively encouraged his childrens natural preferences: My son who is four - his favourite colour is pink. Im really proud of him for making that choice. Its ridiculous to think a colour should belong to a sex. Even M&S, responding to customer disapproval of their Boys Stuff range of toys, announced they were to address stereotyping by making their toys gender-neutral by Spring 2014.

Aspirations such as confidence, intelligence and humility are certainly less boastfully masculine than the previous alpha-male mould (perhaps even gender-neutral), however they are traits that command discipline and respect nonetheless.Are we seeing a new (and perhaps more positive) outlook for masculinity evolving? Will brands targeting men adopt a more appropriate point of view?

Evolving Attitudes

The bragging machismo and posturing of alpha male and lad culture is now seen as the sagging underbelly of masculinity. A manifestation virtually extinct from the aspirations of British men. Lads mags such as Nuts have been hit where it hurts - in the last year circulation of the title dropped by 35%.

Emerging attitudes seem to suggest in the meantime, man and masculinity has quietly moved on towards a more mature masculinity. Characteristics such as strength (of mind as much as muscle), intelligence, confidence and humility are sought - aspirations which point towards a more modest heroism.

Identities and IdealsExtinct Stereotypes

The whole alpha male thing... the one-upmanship. Thats the ugly side of masculinity. You can already see that overly laddish behaviour is frowned upon. Eventually itll be unacceptable.

Nick, 31 Id love to see 90s lad culture and the stupid men behaving badly notions die a final death.

Charles, 34

Sweden was the first country to remove gender from childrens toys. All adverts now use both boys and girls playing with all toys.

Men are more actively involved and engaged in the care of their children - acting on the benefits of a dual parent perspective to share roles and skills. 10% of UK men have even put their careers on hold to become the primary carer of their children.

Alex, father to an 18 month old son, took a rational approach when deciding to become a stay at home dad. It was an easy decision based on who earned the most and had the better prospects. It was one that we thought about long before having children so I was fully aware and happy with the situation. Though its a richly rewarding role, its not always easy and Alex found support as a regular at a Dads and Toddlers group where he gets to

socialise with other fathers and makes sure that he takes time for himself at the weekends too.

Men are forging and juggling their work-life balance just like women, however, the culture of the workplace and societal expectations still largely cling to traditional routines. Establishing acceptance as a full-time father has some way to go both socially and in the workplace. A 2013 edition of the Journal of Social Issues identifies a flexibility stigma attached to those who seek more adaptable working patterns, forcing both men and women into an all or nothing decision. As men experience the benefits of fatherhood could they start to demand more rights for their roles as parents and as men?

Pair-enting and More-Time Dads

Child care, discipline and general parenting is definitely a shared role. Neither of us believes we have all the answers and we both know getting a second opinion is a positive thing, a sign of strength to reflect, validate and learn.

Martin, 45

Stay at home dads are more common, but you still get funny looks or are seen as a part time fixture.

Alex, 38

FatherShop is an online store for dads - selling childrens clothes and toys as well as books and grooming products.

Single father households grew to 230,000 in 2013 Pappa is a Swedish dads magazine featuring content from fashion to interviews with inspirational dads.

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From Mens Mags to Pursuit Publications

Thanks to the Internet, people can more easily access and share a wealth of information and interests, no matter how niche. Even amongst more traditional media, there now exists a greater bandwidth of content. More mainstream titles like GQ and Mens Health sit alongside a new wave of male skewed publications such as Fantastic Man, Kindling Quarterly and Port. The latter exist within an even wider set of printed publications such as Gourmand (food), The Ride (cycling) and Wilder (gardening) that cater to the interests of the individual rather than overtly targeting one gender or the other.

The space for this new breed of magazine has opened out of a hunger for greater honesty and authenticity - articles which reflect the realistic and varied passions of all sorts of men - from the superstar sportsman to the full-time father.

Whilst masculinity has become less clear cut, the debunking of a one size fits all stereotype is not undermining masculine identity but rather opening it up to greater pluralism. Emerging masculinity is more realistically reflecting the multiple and varied facets of individuals.

I like the way Fantastic Man is written, not pushing an agenda or writing just to be written - they provide their real opinions on their real passions which comes across so well.

Brendan, 21 The men in Kindling Quarterly represent my idea of masculinity today - not famous, just ordinary men, fathers.

Johannes, 30

Be Your Own Man : The Rise Of The Individual

With more freedom and flexibility to explore alternative roles and assume different responsibilities, men are defining themselves (and others) as individuals rather than gender groups.

More content to assess the merits of the person rather than perpetuate preconceptions - individual traits and characteristics maketh both the man and the woman.

Labels appeal less and less, it no longer matters what box you fit into as we lean more towards a you are what you do culture. Terms such as Alpha and Zeta are used mainly in media and marketing in attempt to define and group individuals but have never really mattered to people expressing their own identities along the gender spectrum. The scope of individual personalities and even the desire to reflect different aspects of it is both acted upon and better acknowledged.

From Alpha to Zeta and Everything In Between

I see people as people - not as men or women and judge someone on what positive attributes they display.

Fraser, 41

There should be more versions of what makes a man in media than the thin repertoire that is portrayed now. Its so much more complex, multifaceted and flexible.

Johannes, 30

Were on the way to accepting the idea of not being just one man. We have many choices of lifestyles, likes and dislikes to choose from.

Brendan, 21

Were all individuals and being an individual is more important than having a label and fitting into a box.

Roland, 38

I admire people who are able to walk their own path and be comfortable with it. I really dont ever think about masculinity - the ideals I hold for myself I expect from my girlfriend and vice versa.

Charles, 34

Uniforms by Damien Ravn explore how the same garment can be worn by either sex.

Tom Ford Private Blend combines traditionally masculine and feminine scents in one gender neutral fragrance.

Yoga for men, or Broga as it has been coined, has seen a rapid growth in recent years.

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Pride in AppearanceIts 20 years since the term metrosexual was first coined by Mark Simpson and its impact on male appearance is evident in the bathrooms and wardrobes of British men. UK menswear is now worth over 10bn, growing 12% in the last five years, with the British Fashion Council predicting it to surpass womenswear by 2016. NPD also report an 11% growth in the male beauty market since 2011. The rise of e-commerce and the ubiquity of the app are partly responsible for the boom. Men can be more informed, if they choose to be, with sites like Mr Porter and Mankind offering advice and inspiration. Crucially too, internet shopping allows men to shop in confidence - away from the judging gaze of shoppers and assistants.

With more egalitarian relationship roles, the female influence on male personal care habits seems to be permeating. Men are encouraged and willing to take more care of their appearance with a plethora of washes, moisturisers, fragrances and hair styling products. However, grooming isnt just about pleasing partners, taking a pride in his appearance is something he does for himself - to look and feel confident. In turbulent times, competition is concentrated (both at work and play) and as first impressions count - men are making concerted efforts to look and feel their best.

Women have come to expect a certain level of grooming from men, almost an I put the effort into my looks, so should you stance.

Matt, 27 My appearance is important to me - how I look, or rather how I feel about how I look, reflects on my confidence, attitude, general mood - it connects to being accepted.

Martin, 45

Appearance Matters

With the explosion of social media and the ubiquity of the camera lens, identities and images are an increasingly prevalent part of modern life. The phenomenon of the selfie perhaps demonstrates this at its most self-conscious. Coupled with exposure to more images of masculine ideals - body consciousness is no longer the preserve of the female. A recent study by the University of West England found that 63% of men thought their arms and chests were not muscular enough and 80% speak in ways that promote anxiety over body. Statistics like this highlight the potential dark-side of appearance with body dysmorphia a relevant issue to both men and women. A good physique remains a definitive (and desirable) male trait. From staying fit and trim to building muscle with training and protein, man (whether he would admit it or not) has become more self-aware.

Social media and the emergence of the public human have added to the trend that many people are constantly aware of their own appearance.

Roland, 38

Selfie-aware

Johannes, 30 Matt, 27 Fraser, 41

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As masculinity becomes more nuanced and people become more marketing savvy, brands must work hard to remain relevant and appealing. The lazy and overt stereotypes no longer cut it as more sophisticated, intelligent and humorous communication appeals.

As a reaction to the complexities of modern life there has been a growing tendency towards simplification - a wider social trend that appeals to both men and women. Functional, no fuss products and messages are reassuringly honest whereas extraneous detail and pseudo-science is a confusing turn-off.

Where products arent required to cater to mens physical or biological differences, men may choose to take a more rational approach to product choice, where function wins out.

Man Appeal

I only really look for gender specific products in fashion, everything else I really look for function.

Tom, 24

I like to think weve come to a place where we see something as an object, rather than as a womans or a mans.

Fraser, 41

Campfire is a tongue in cheek cologne, its scent is created by wafting around burning wooden sticks. Theres nothing more manly than a good beard and the smell of a fresh campfire.

Trunk Club is a menswear styling e-tailer that understands men who struggle with clothes shopping. Trunk Club takes measurements, preferences and lifestyle information and suggest whole outfits.

The latest offering from US online subscription service Dollar Shave Club is One Wipe Charlies: wet wipes for men. Marketed simply and humorously they encourage men to premiumise their toilet experience.

Just For Men?Gender codes are no longer binary and purchasing habits are starting to reflect this. Alongside those who prefer the reassuringly clear and overt for men messaging, there are men who gravitate towards female or unisex products - particularly with deodorant and perfume. With wider fragrance choice and sensitive variants in female ranges - men are seeking products that better match their personal needs and preferences. Scent is deeply personal, emotive and evocative - a powerful sensory marketing tool. Why should a small spectrum of it be restricted to one gender or the other?

As minds open, it remains to be seen how men respond to greater product experimentation. Marc Jacobs launched Beauty, his range of boy-tested, girl approved make-up in 2013 and Tom Ford is expected to follow suit with a male make-up range shortly. In Korea (an innovative beauty market), men have been flirting with cosmetics and make-up for a number of years. Even PSY, the South Korean pop star fronts the advertising campaign for a male BB cream. Could there be appetite amongst British men to take up make-up too? As celebrities such as Harry Styles (spotted sporting more than a little concealer) may make it more acceptable for some, the choice is likely to remain at the discretion of the individual.

I use a female roll-on deodorant because its a lot more sensitive on my skin and it smells much better than the mens stuff.

Tom, 24

We share a fragrance. I like the fact that my girlfriend and I can wear the same scent but it smells completely different on each of us.

Charles, 34 Men should be able to have the same privileges as women - to enhance their features through cosmetics and grooming products.

Matt, 27

GQ have recently collaborated with Fellow Barber to open a Barbershop in the Brooklyn Barclays Centre. Men-only store concepts are becoming more mainstream.

Primal Skin by Annemiek van der Beek is a mens make-up collection designed to appeal to men through subtle and stealthy semantics.

PSY the Korean pop sensation has released a Mans Balm, which creates a clean skin effect, marketed around the philosophy that a real man takes care of himself.

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Men are invigorated by fulfilling their natural passions - in a time of instability and flux, it is perhaps a way of evaluating priorities and asserting identity. Not exclusive to wilderness terrains; bushy-beard, urban dwelling, hipster types seek out the practical skills to make, fix and feed - provider instincts made accessible by magazines like How Stuff Works (which has seen an 11.5% rise in circulation). Men have also become re-acquainted with food - not just eating it, but preparing and perfecting dishes for partners and families too.

A trend for man food - dishes high in meat content and taste value - has enticed men into the kitchen. Cooking is a way for men to display and hone their skills and they like to get it just right. With a proliferation of tools for the job they strive for perfection. Is this an expression of man as provider - the hunter-gatherer adapting to his urban environment?

As part of a broader food revolution the origin of food has become more important. For some, this passion has become a profession. Nick runs a series of courses at Hunter Gather Cook - teaching hunting, butchery and foraging with the aim of putting people back in touch with the food chain and providing them with self-sufficiency skills.

Contemporary life is decidedly complex. By reverting to natural impulses, seeking work, hobbies and pursuits that play to and burnish their natural strengths, men are able to reassert their role and manliness in a softened society. Provider, fixer and protector are reassuring defaults in times of flux and uncertainty.

Fire, Fixing Things and Food

One thing that never fails to lighten my mood or make me feel happy is fire. Its mans greatest discovery and we wouldnt have progressed far or evolved as a species without it. Being able to harness it gives a great sense of confidence and comfort.

Nick, 31 I guess I mostly cook at home. My girlfriend can cook but I think Im more obsessive about trying dishes over and over to perfect them. If my girlfriend cooks then it will probably be slightly healthier than if I buy a load of meat, but she loves my cooking so its all good!

Charles, 34 My work makes me feel good. Cutting down dangerous, storm-damaged trees with a hand saw, foot patrolling the toughest sections of the West Highland Way, working in adverse weather I resort to the old stereotype of provider and fixer.

Tim, 47

Meatopia - a meat festival in London brings butchers, street food vendors and high end restaurants together in a celebration of all things meat.

Esquires Eat like a Man published in 2011 is a collection of recipes, essays on how food fits into the moments that define a mans life, as well as all the useful kitchen points every man needs to know.

Nick demonstrates hunting and butchery skills as part of his Hunter Gather Cook course.

Primal Pursuits :The Embers Of Masculinity

My dad and granddad were a lot tougher than me - they could fix cars, climb a mountain, build a wall - all in their spare time. Most of us now work at laptops, eat and drink too much and well, you cant even fix a modern engine.

Charles, 34

A softer, more feminised society where urban lifestyles dominate has undoubtedly developed. Manual labour has declined to a point where succeeding in employment relies less on survival of the fittest and more on survival of the wittiest. Blurring identities, role reversals and equalised responsibilities prompts the question what is left to define men?

For many of our participants, it seems to distill down to the basic physical, biological and hormonal distinctions. These fundamental differences still hold the (broadly speaking) innate male traits; to provide, protect, compete and procreate. In spite of (and perhaps in response to) these landscape shifts, there is evidence that mans underlying primal instincts still flicker on in his passions and pursuits.

I dont think theres one thing now that can point you towards what makes a man beyond the physical.

Johannes, 30

Primal Instincts

Nick, 31

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Id like to see men given more full paid paternity leave so that we can both look after the kids after birth.

Prenash, 41

The quest for equality has a long way to go, but it doesnt just mean making society female friendly. At the risk of an emerging culture (intentionally or otherwise) suppressing males, even some feminists are speaking out in defence of masculine virtues. Camille Paglia, speaking in the Wall Street Journal, sees an urgent need to accommodate latent male desires and fairly represent a male agenda. Paglia also talks about the confines of so-called equality and the myth of having it all - she wants young people to be objectively presented with the realities of choice earlier on. In Wired magazine, Anne-Marie Slaughter, Professor at Princeton University, points

Meninism

Many of the pervasive gender inequalities we continue to see cannot be fixed unless men have the same range of choices with respect to mixing caregiving and breadwinning that women do.

Anne-Marie Slaughter, Wired, January 2014

towards mens liberation as an emergent trend for the coming year. Even Londons Southbank Centre is giving the male condition a forum with a festival of events organised to examine and debate what Being A Man means.

There is some work to do, not least on a name that rolls more easily off the tongue than meninism, but we could be entering an era that seeks to dissolve double standards and treat equality more pragmatically. Could we see more men campaigning for flexible paternity leave, balanced divorce rights and an awakened regard for all things man?

Towards Equality

Renewed interest in feminism in recent times has helped it shake off its 70s stigma and the female agenda has re-entered the mainstream consciousness. Caitlin Morans How to be a Woman won the public vote for Book of the Year in 2011. Campaigns against female objectification such as No More Page Three and Lose the Lad Mags gained momentum in 2013 and even Beyonc sampled a feminist speech by Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie on her track Flawless.

There seems to be more balance and equality now. A more sensitive, supportive and helpful man on the side of an equally strong woman.

Roland, 38

Men, like women, are belatedly escaping what we now recognise to be the confines of our own gender.

Jack OSullivan, Fatherhood Institute

The Gender AgendaThe drive towards more equality and a mindset to judge individuals on their merits and skills shows through in the attitudes and behaviours of our research participants. Though perhaps more interestingly, in responding to our research, it was the first time that many had consciously considered their roles, identities and values as men. For them it seems there is no male agenda. As women become more prominent and vocal and as traditional masculine archetypes dissolve could women begin to dominate to the detriment of men?

Notorious womaniser and sex addict Russell Brand recently proclaimed support for the No More Page Three campaign to remove images of sexual objectification from newspapers.

Fathers 4 Justice campaigners making a political stand for more rights for shared custody of their children.

Londons Southbank Centre ran a festival of events in February 2014 exploring the political, social and personal aspects of being a man.

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For brands who count men amongst their valued consumer base, it has never been more important to understand the changing landscape and your consumer better. Gender is no longer single-minded and brands and products should be aware of the greater sensitivities and nuances that make man more multi-faceted.

Whilst the traditional definitions that helped to define man no longer necessarily apply, that is no reason for mankind to mourn. After all, mans greatest survival skill, the one thats seen him through millennia, is being able to adapt. That is what hes always done and what hes doing right now.

OutlookIts not a question of how men changed to what, its a constant motion.

Roland, 38

The idea of men and women will undoubtedly continue to matter. We are different and our differences - physical, emotional, biological - are likely to remain.

Martin, 45We asked our respondents who their role models are a public figure whose characteristics and values of masculinity they most closely identify with. Their response reinforces again how multifaceted masculinity is today.From left to right, top to bottom: Ricky Gervais, Comedian | David Beckham, Sportsman | Hugh Laurie, Actor & SingerMicheal Fassbender, Actor | Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Chef | Brandon Flowers, MusicianSarah Ann Murray, Mens Fashion Editor | Steve Backshall, Nature Videographer | Ben Cohen, Sportsman

New Role Models

Seymourpowell is one of the worlds leading design and innovation companies. With a unique and holistic approach, our methodologies combine in-depth experience with up to date intelligence about people, markets and

businesses.

This report provides a social trends snapshot. Seymourpowell regularly conduct more in-depth research for a range of clients utilising ethnographic,

trend and strategic methodologies to inform and inspire innovation.

With thanks to all of our participants and contributors.

Written, designed and edited by Karen Rosenkranz, Sarah Johnson and Chloe Coulson

For more information about Seymourpowell and social trends research please contact:

karen.rosenkranz@seymourpowell.com

327 Lillie RoadLondon SW6 7NR

+44 (0)20 7381 6433

2014