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India

NOVEMBER 2013C 150

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THE WORLD'S BEST IN OUR 2 ANNIVERSARY ISSUEND

India

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2 BBC GoodFood NOVEMBER 2013

At BBC Good Food India, we believe in food without frontiers. A culinaryglobe sans boundaries. This historic, border-busting edition is proof thatthis is possible.

The worlds best in a single issue? The very idea seemed inconceivable in India. We dreamed of it, believed in it and made it happen. On our secondbirthday, Im proud to present The GF 25, some of the most important culinary forces on the planet. All together. Right here. For you.

Imagine getting exclusive one-on-one interviews and recipes fromglobal giants like Alice Waters, Neil Perry, Kylie Kwong and MasaharuMorimoto. And Indian greats like Imtiaz Qureshi, Ananda Solomon and

Jiggs Kalra. Not only did we pull it off, we managed to photograph several of them.

From chefs and restaurateurs to TV stars and cookery book writers, here are 25 icons thathave been instrumental in inuencing the way we think about and engage with food. They are beloved trailblazers, the ones industry insiders imitate and the rest of us line up for. Onthe pages that follow, they share with us their milestones and philosophies, the restaurantswhere they ate their most memorable meals, the books and tools that changed their lives, the incredible people they encountered along their journeys.

And the food. Oh the food. The 25 signature dishes from the icons represent some of the nest cooking on terra rma. Think of it as a large birthday banquet,a worldwide feast with the choicest dishes ever. Starters like Sergi Arolas patatas bravas and Jiggs Kalras s Gilawati kebabs. Mains like Jamie Olivers rustic tuna stew, Kylie Kwongs crispy duck in plum sauce and Ananda Solomons Thai redcurry. Desserts like Gordon Ramsays lemon tart, Nigella Lawsons tiramisu andJacques Ppins tarte tatin.

A few qualications are in order. This is NOT a culinary power list. Our idea issimply to celebrate masters we love and their fabulous dishes. Weve deliberately chosen a mix of old-school veterans and mavericks at the leading edge of food.

The sequence in which they appear does not connote their order of importance. Finally, the list is neither comprehensive nor denitive. We happily acknowledge that there are many other heavyweights in food. Thomas Keller, Heston Blumenthal, Abhijit Saha, Vineet Bhatia, Urbano Rego. We hope to showcase them in future issues of GFf .

There are so many priceless gems in this edition. Like how Ananda Solomon opened Konkan Caf after Thai Pavilion just so he could get a buyers advantage from his coconut supplier in Mangalore. Or how the expletive-hurling Gordon Ramsay humbly followed orders while learning to make biryani from Imtiaz Qureshi. Or how Ren Redzepi, the worlds No. 1 chef, landed in culinary school because his grades did not qualify him for university.

No more spoilers. Dig in and get a rsthand taste of greatness.

Happy birthday.

Sona Bahadur, editor

Illustration SVABHU KOHLI

2nd anniversaryspecial feature

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We turn two with a coup!

THE GF 25Revelations (and recipes) from the greats. Our bday gift to you! P 55

MITHAI NEXTIntroducing motichoor mousse and red velvet shrikhand. Swoon! P 46

CHIC CHIKKISIm nuts about this months sensational cashew and kaffir lime brittle. P 12

What better place to measure out your life in coffee spoons or wat

ch the world go by than at a

heritage caf? We find out what makes five iconic eateries across th

e country as special as they are

Kyani & Co is the oldest existing Irani

caf today, established over a century

ago in 1904 (its been in its current

location since 1909; for the rst ve

years it was located in Girgaum). In

the 50s, Bombay boasted of around f

400 Irani cafs, but today, only a few

dozen remain. In their heyday, they

were found at nearly every street corner

in town, often, close to a cinema house.

Kyani, in Dhobi Talao, is within walking

distance of Metro and Edward Cinema.

I would see a lot of movies at Metro, or

as many as my limited pocket money

would allow, and after building up an

appetite standing in the queue for a

ticket, like many others I would stop at

Kyani for a small, affordable bite.

The genteel caf is a monument

to an earlier Bombay. Kyanis

proprietor, Farookh Shokriye, is one

of the few third-generation owners

of an Irani caf in most cases, the

family is not interested in continuing

the tradition, given the low returns

and high overheads. In 1995, he

took over the reins from his father,

Aatoon Khodadad Shokriye, who

passed away last month. Within the

scuffed splendour of Kyani, theres

HOW WE DID IT The ve cafs featured here are vastly different in c

haracter one is a European-style tearoom, another an Irani baker

y.

The common thread that links these long-standing eateries is that

they are beloved of the cities to which they belong. Each of these ic

onic

landmarks is an entrenched local institution, and is considered a m

ust-visit spot for visitors to the city. We have handpicked writers wh

o regularly

visit these cafs to write these reviews. They offer an insiders pers

pective and share a slice of the heritage that is so much a part of ev

ery visit.

KYANI & COMUMBAI

Clockwise from

left: Bun maska

and milky Irani

tea; A weighing

machine is one

of the many

relics at the

caf; Batches

of mutton

patties are

prepared daily;

Writer Rafique

Baghdadi

at Kyani.

Facing page:

Chequered

tablecloths and

black bentwood

chairs

epitomise

quaintness at

Kyani

Pho

togr

aphs

RIT

AM

BA

NER

JEE

The stuff ofLEGENDS

eateat outt ooououtuuspypycaf spyaf ssspaf ssppypycaf spy

GREATNESS CAF-FIEDOur tribute to five iconic Indian eateries is a feast for the eyes. P 132

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Good Food India is edited by Sona Bahadur and printed & published by Joji Varghese for and on behalf of Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd., The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr D N Road, Mumbai 400001. Printed at Rajhans Enterprise, No 134, 4th Main Road, Industrial

Town, Rajajinagar, Bangalore 560044, India.

Good Food is published by Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd. under licence from BBC Worldwide Limited, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ. The BBC logo is a trade mark

of the British Broadcasting Corporation and are used under licence by Immediate Media Company London Limited. Copyright Immediate Media Company London Limited All

rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission.

The publisher makes every effort to ensure that the magazines contents are correct. However we accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. Unsolicited material,

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may also be used on the publications related platforms. Good Food Magazine India is not responsible for any controversies that may arise thereof.

All material published in Good Food is protected by copyright and unauthorised reproduction in part or full is forbidden.

Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai

Editor Sona Bahadur

Assistant Editor Amrita GuptaFeatures Editor Vidya Balachander

Senior Features Writer Priyanka HosangadiJunior Copy Editor Khorshed Deboo

Associate Food Editor Amit PamnaniAssistant Food Editor Kainaz Contractor

Recipe Tester Vishal Kolhe

Consulting Editor Camellia Panjabi

Assistant Art Director Shalaka ShindeSenior Graphic Designer P. Vel Kumar

Junior Stylist Shreya Gupta

Editorial Coordinator Prital Patil

Marketing Manager Abhishek KrishnanSenior Brand Manager (Events & IPs) Aakash Mishra

Brand Manager (Digital) Mihir MukadamAssistant Brand Manager (Magazines) Sajid Hussain

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Chief Financial Officer Subramaniam S

Publisher, Print and Production Controller Joji Varghese

UK TEAMDirector of Publishing Nicholas Brett

Editor Good Food Gillian CarterCreative Director Food Group Elizabeth Galbraith

Food Director Food Group Lulu GrimesHead of Editorial Jenny Potter

Head of Publishing Chris Kerwin Publishing Coordinator Eva Abramik


Contents

eat inInspiring, seasonal recipes that

work every time

28 7 MEALS FOR ` 700`A weeks worth of stylishmeals

35 LUNCHBOXWhat to carry to work

36 READY IN 30Delicious ready-in-a-ash dishes

46 SHOWOFFMithai gets a makeover

55 THE GF 2525 culinary masters andtheir great dishes

ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY!

Now, subscribing to BBCGood Food India (and allyour favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare and others) justrequires a click of themouse! Log on to mags.timesgroup.com.Simply fill your cart withyour favourite magazinesand pay right from yourdesk. Plus, get greatdiscounts and really excitinggift offers! Log on now!

46

ULTIMATE DISHES FROM THE ICONS

25 culinary masters share their lives andultimate dishes with us on our 2nd birthday. Special collectors section! MAGZTER

COPY

BBC GoodFood 5 NOVEMBER 2013

November 2013

eat outRestaurants on trial and cafs

with character

132 CAF SPYOur tribute to ve iconic cafs

143 PRO VS PUNTERLe Bistro du Parc, New Delhi

eat awayFoodie holiday ideas and

recipes from around the world

145 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: FINLANDWhip up a true-blue Finnish meal

149 BUDGET AND BLOWOUT: MELBOURNEAn eaters guide to the Australian city

150 COOK LIKE A PRO A ravioli tray for perfect pillowy pasta

151 DO IT YOURSELFEdible gift hampers

153 WINE GUIDE Wines for special occasions

156 LIFE ON A PLATEActor Nimrat Kaur shares her lunchbox secrets

masterclass

THE BBC GOOD FOOD LEGACY7BBC Good Food is the UKs largest selling food magazine with

a readership of over 1.1 million.7bbcgoodfood.com is the UKs most popular recipe site

attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over

70,000 downloads till date.

rst bite

54 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India

JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

Out & about

QQ

Bengaluru

6 OVER TO YOUReader recipes, comments and letters

12 FIRST BITEGo nuts with brittles

14 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPINGNew restaurants, trends we like and more

17 ON TESTSalted butters and cake tins

18 BARGAIN HUNTERFoodie events and deals

20 FOOD ISSUEBBC Good Food investigates entomophagy

23 WELLBEINGWholesome cauliower

25 DRINK UPClassic cocktails

26 WHATS ONThe months best food TV

145

New Delhi

Melbourne

Finland

Kolkata

Goa

Mumbai QQ

Q QQ

Q

Q

BIRTHDAYISSUE!2nd BUMPER

132

59Legendary chef Imitiaz Qureshi shares his recipe for Jal Pari Pulao


Over to youFor top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us in the know

We love hearing from you. Email your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at [email protected]. Lets be in touch!

Write to us!

Good Food reader Shivani Goel lists her

favourite eateries in Jamshedpur 7BREAKFAST Time Out Restaurant (+91 657 655 0468) in the Mango residential locality is a vegetarian joint where you can choose from crisp dosas, soft idlis with piping hot sambar or the

mouth-watering club kachori with sabji or raj kachori and dahi samosa chaat. Meal for two, ` 250. 7LUNCH The lunch buffet at Zodiac (+91 657 398 8444), a ne dining restaurant at the Fortune Hotel Centre Point, is always a delight. Its central location is great for working professionals wanting to grab a quick lunch. The spread includes a range of salads, chaat, raita and soup, and vegetarian and non-vegetarian mains spanning Chinese, Indian and Italian cuisines. Round off your meal with Indian desserts or a choice of ice cream. Meal for two, ` 998. 7DINNER Awadh (+91 657 600 2444), located in Sonari, specialises in authentic Awadhi cuisine. The restaurant offers an array of kebabs, biryani and curries prepared by chefs trained by experts from Lucknow. The vegetariaaan Nawabi thali, priced at ` 125, is a ste l. The Kacche Gosht ki Biryani is highly recommended. Meal for two, ` 750.

FOOD NATION Jamshedpur

HOW YOU PIMPED ITRed velvet is a trend that isnt likely to die out anytime soon. Pairing it with shrikhandis certainly a novel idea, and I was amazed at how the avours complement each other so well. I substituted the eggs with 1/4 cup of fresh curd and added 1 tsp of powdered

axseeds mixed with water. Since Im not too fond of store-bought shrikhand, I made my own. I am denitely making this for Diwali. Renuka Nadkarni-Hattangadi is a Mumbai-based public relations professional.

Shrikhand red velvet spongeServes 10 Q50 minutes + refrigeration Q EASY

Recipe RACHEL GOENKA

all-purpose flour (maida) 220g baking soda 1 tspbaking powder 1 tspcocoa powder 1/3 cupsalt 1/2 tspsugar 1 cupoil 1 cup eggs 2, beatenbuttermilk 1 cup vanilla essence a dropvinegar 1 tbsp

water 1/4 cup coffee powder 1 1/2 tbsp red food colouring 30g (try McCormick available at gourmet stores) cardamom (elaichi) shrikhand 500g (try Amul available at gourmet stores)

QPreheat the oven to 200C. Line a 28x24cm at

tray with parchment paper. Pass all the dry ingredients our, baking soda, baking powder, cocoa powder and salt together through a sieve. Keep aside. QMix the sugar and the oil together, then add the eggs, buttermilk, vanilla essence and vinegar, and mix until well combined. Heat the water and dissolve the coffee powder in it. Add this to the sugar mixture. Whisk the dry ingredients into the sugar mixture. Slowly stir in the red food colouring to the mixture, checking the colour carefully

as you go along. In addition to the colouring, the reaction between the buttermilk and the vinegar contributes to the striking red hue of the cake. Pour the mixture into the prepared tray and bake for 12-15 minutes. The batter in the tray should not be more than 1cm deep.QCut the sponge into 3 equalrectangles. Layer the sponge with shrikhand. Place the second layer on top of the shrikhand. Repeat twice. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours to allow it to set before slicing. QPER SERVING 507 kcals, protein 10.23g, carbs 61.71g, fat 27.03g, sat fat

3.88g, fibre 3.46g, salt 0.2g

GOOD FOOD STAR

RECIPE

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAMOur Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to [email protected] to join us.


over to youreaders write

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH

Which of thesemithai-based

desserts do youwant to try this festive season?

55.6% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%Mithai cheesecake

Lemongrass panna cotta kheer

Shrikhand red velvet

11.1% 22.2%INSIDERS POLL

Interact with other Good Foodreaders on Facebook at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.

The winner of the letter of the month for thisissue wins a Grand Celebration Hamper worth` 4,900 from Godrej Natures Basket. The hamper `comprises goodies such as Valors 70 per cent dark mint chocolate, Guylians milk broken nuts, FerreroRocher chocolates, Galaxy Jewels chocolates,

Planters whole honey roasted cashews, Pure Heavens redd grape juice, Waterthins poppy crackedpepper twists, Poco Locos smoky Texas salsa dip, Missions chilli

and lime corn chips, Jacobsens assorted choco cookieses and Lindtpistachio chocolate. TTo o wrw ite in

to the magazine, emaaill uuuss [email protected] withyour contact details.

Dearr Editor,It is aallways a pleasure to see how ees a howhhee hesewell Goodd Food has customised FoFoo cuu iomm ed ededisedits Indian edition to readers so knowledgeable, ti blblbllbeabbdgeedgl dddyet adventurous enough to try something new regularly. Kudos on the style and substance, plusthe excellent mix of local and global or is thatglocal? I am a grandmother now, but long beforrethese were fads, I have believed in light, fresh foodmade from produce grown within a radius of50 km to be environmentally sustainable. I wouldwelcome Good Food Indias focus on these, as wellas more on how regions all over the world havetraditional foods for specific climates and ouroverall wellbeing. Soul food indeed!

Kusum Burman, Bengaluru

LETTEROF THE

MONTH

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd (DCPL), `a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hampercontains an array of products from DCPLs Leonardo brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil, pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe booklets.

Watermelon rind gravyServes 2-3Q30 minutes QEASY

QPeel off the dark green part of 1 cupof cubed watermelon rind and chop thewhitish green rind into small cubes. Bringwater to a boil, add the watermelon rindand cook until tender. Season to taste.Alternatively, pressure cook the rind withsalt for 2 whistles.QHeat 2 tbsp oil in a pan, then add 1 tbsp finely chopped garlic cloves and1 chopped onion and saut well. Stir in 2 chopped tomatoes and cook until thesauce begins to thicken. QAdd 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tspcoriander powder, 1/4 tsp turmericpowder, 1/2 tsp sugar andr 1 1/2 tsp salt.Add the cooked melon rind and stir well.Cover and cook for a few minutes.QFinally, pour in 2 tsp fresh cream andgarnish with coriander leaves. Serve withsteamed rice or roti.

MoMoMoMooMoottititittichchchhhchcchchoooooooooooooooooor r mmmmmmmmomooooomm ususssuuuuuususususseseseessesesseseeMMMM tititiittt hhhhh

Good Food reader Gayathri Saravanandshares her favourite recipe


In this issue

SVABHU KOHLISvabhu Kohli studied Film and Visual Communication and specialised in print and graphic design at the Srishti Schoolof Art, Design and Technology in Bengaluru. He has createdillustrations for Ritu Dalmias cookbook, Travelling Diva, whichare now displayed at her restaurant, Diva Piccola, in New Delhi. He has also designed the menus of Bengaluru restaurantsLikeThatOnly and Olive Beach. Kohlis illustrations haveappeared in earlier issues of BBC Good Food India, and also grace the walls of the Good Food test kitchen. He has createddour anniversary issue cover.

APARNA PEDNEKAR parna Pednekar is a Mumbai-based author and travel and estyle journalist. She has worked with Mid Day andy Condest Traveller , and her articles have appeared in Vogue,avel Plus, Verve, Lonely Planet, Elle, Spice Route, Jetwings ernational andl Femina. Pednekars rst book, Strike@36, ark comedy, was published earlier this year. She takes you on a culinary tour of Finland in Eat Like a Local on p 145.NIMRAT KAUR Nimrat Kaur began her acting career as a theatre artiste and shot to stardom with her role as a jaded homemaker in

the acclaimed lm, The Lunchbox. Kaur, who has appeared

in several television commercials, is best recognised as the girl biting into a bar of chocolate at a trafc signal in a rece

Cadbury advertisement. She serves up details on her passi

for food in My Life on a Plate on p 156.

JOY MANAVATHPhotography has been Joy Manavathspassion for as long as he canremember. In 2010, he enrolled in an extensive 10-month-long course in photography at the Center for theVisual Arts in Mumbai and went on to establish Joy Manavath Photographyin 2011. While food and interiorphotography is his prime focus, conceptual wedding photographs andportraits are also part of his portfolio.Manavath trained his lens on an arrayof iconic dishes in The GF 25 on p 71.

RACHEL GOENKARachel Goenka is the proprietor and chef of The Sassy Spoon, a Mumbai-based restaurant that serves innovativeEuropean cuisine. She studiedjournalism at Penn State Universitybefore training under Rachel Allenat the Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland. Goenka specialised in ptisserieat Le Cordon Bleu, London. She often experiments with contrasting avours in her creations. Goenka developed animpressive line-up of desserts with anIndian twist, exclusively for BBC GoodFood India in Showoff on p 46.


PUSHPESH PANTPushpesh Pant is an academician and food historian. In 2010,his book, India: The Cookbook a compilation of more than 1,000 recipes was declared one of the best cookery books of the year by The New York Times. A former professor ofinternational relations at the Jawaharlal Nehru University,his writings have appeared in publications such as ForbesIndia, Outlook, Navbharat Times and The Tribune. He has alsocontributed to First Food A Taste of Indias Biodiversity.In this issue, Pant recounts memories of New Delhisvenerable Indian Coffee House on p 136

.

ODETTE MASCARENHAS

dette Mascarenhas is a food writer and consultant basedGoa. She has written seven books about Goan food, andcurrently working on her next one. Mascarenhas, whos compiled the Goa edition of the Times Food Guide,the co-founder of the Goan Culinary Club, which aimspreserve the states authentic recipes. She reminisces about Calangutes landmark eatery, Infantaria, on p 140.AJIT SALDANHAAjit Saldanha is a Bengaluru-based author and food columnist. Saldanha is an active member of local foodgroup Sapad Brigade, which seeks out ne food in hole-in-the-wall eateries across the city. He promotes stand-u

comedy by organising frequent shows in India, and alsodabbles in theatre. Saldanha writes about his secondhome, the old Bengaluru establishment, Koshys, on p 13

RAFIQUE BAGHDADIRaque Baghdadi is a lm historian and journalist with a wealth of

knowledge about Mumbais past. A senior member of the PressClub of India, he often conducts heritage walks within the city. The recipient of the National Film Awardfor the Best Film Critic (English) in 2006, he collaborated with theBMW Guggenheim Lab to organise a programme to explore Mumbai.Baghdadi gets nostalgic about the Iranicaf, Kyani & Co, on p 132.

RAKHI PURNIMA DASGUPTAKolkata-based Rakhi PurnimaDasgupta is the proprietor of Kewpies Kitchen, a restaurant renowned forits authentic Bengali cuisine. A foodcolumnist with The Telegraph, she hasparticipated in TV shows such asA Taste of India by Madhur Jaffrey, and recently, Rick Steins India: Search for the Perfect Curry. She is currentlywiting a book called Eating Calcutta.In this issue, she soaks up the charm of Park Streets delightful tearoom, Flurys, on p 138.

first bite

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Brittles add aBrittles add an excitinn exciting element to ent toalmost any fooalmost any food on yd on your plate, from rom ice cream sundice cream sundaes to salads.aes to Turn rnoverleaf for soverleaf for six innovative ix innov recipes, where weve upwhere weve upew dated the clasdated the classic sic caramelised trcacaramelised trracar eat with everyeat w thingng from a handfulom a handful of kaffir limof ka e leaves to s tlashings of slashings of smlaas oked paprika.

REALLYRREALLYQUICKK

Easy after-work dishes that cometogether in a flash

Readyin 30

Linguine with fresh puttanesca sauceServes 2Q15 minutesQEASY

Throw together this simple yet tasty

pasta dish when youre really pressed

for time.

linguine 150g (try Garofalo available atgourmet stores) cherry tomatoes 250g, choppedcapers 2 tbsp, rinsed (try Epicureavailable at gourmet stores) garlic clove 1/2, crushed flat-leaf parsley a small bunch,choppedred chilli 1, nely choppedgreen olives 12, pitted and chopped(try Iliada available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, juicedolive oil 3 tbspsalt and pepper to season r

QCook the linguine following thepacket instructions. QTo make the sauce, put the rest ofthe ingredients in a large bowl, addthe olive oil, season and toss together. Drain the pasta and toss with the sauce.QPER SERVING 309 kcals, protein 11.1g, carbs 59.7g, fat 4.6g, sat fat 0.6g, fibre

4.4g, salt 2.5g

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FINLANDRustic Finnish cuisine makes the most of the countrys plentiful fresh produce,which includes tart lingonberries, grains, mushrooms and fish

Words APARNA PEDNEKAR Photographs JUHO KUVA Recipes ILJA BJRS

eat like a local

Overowing basketsof ame-colouredchanterelle mushrooms,mountains of tart and

juicy lingonberries, freshly smoked Baltic herring, deep-fried sardinesstuffed in rustic loaves of bread, crpesoozing blueberry jam the kauppatori,or market square, at Helsinki is a sensory smorgasbord. Chowing down on fries at Hesburger (Finlands largest burger chain) one day and warmingup to a Karelian rice pastry (a thin rye crust lled with creamy rice) the next,it doesnt take long to get into a Finnish foodie groove.

One word liberally tossedaround all over Finland is makkara(sausage). Tampere in the south hasmustamakkara (black sausage madeaof pigs blood, traditionally eaten withlingonberry sauce); Turku on thesouthwest coast has rusinamakkara(raisin sausage). Stick a makkara insidea soft, fried bun with cucumber salad and pickles, and you have porilainen,Finlands favourite fast food.

Reindeer meat is popular in the northern part of the country. InLapland, you can enjoy poronkristys (sauted reindeer) served on a bed ofmashed potatoes, washed down witha few mugs of locally brewed LapinKulta beer. In urban areas like Helsinki, youre more likely to nd restaurantsserving parts of the animal such asheart and tongue in sashimi-like slices.

Fish is beloved across regions. Often eaten with boiled potatoes, it

tastes best when smoked or grilled.Salted whitesh, salmon, lamprey andherring are eaten raw on slices of bread,as snacks or meals. Creamy salmon soup is well liked, as is soup made ofsmaller sh like vendace, a freshwater white sh and perch, especially in thesummer months.

Common vegetables includebeetroot, rutabaga (Swedish turnip)and nettle (a substitute for spinach), cooked in cold-pressed rapeseed or olive oil. Mushrooms, too, are popular, and they grow in abundance all over Finland between August and October.

Rye bread, with its typically souraftertaste, is a Finnish staple. There are also a variety of atbreads called rieska.

Finns love their coffee through the day. Coffee-time snacks include pulla,a not-too-sweet, cardamom-avoured bun and a cinnamon roll made of pulla dough called korvapuusti (whichitranslates into a slap on the ear, for itscharacteristic spiral, rolled shape).

On Sundays or festive occasions,Finnish homes are lled with the aromas of home-cooked classicssuch as macaroni stew, hearty ham roasts, or karjalanpaisti (Karelian stew), a hot pot prepared with a mix of meats, potatoes and onions. Theseare served with pickled beetroot,mushrooms, cucumber or jamsmade of lingonberries, cloudberries or rowanberries. Berries, which are plentifully available, are also used in most Finnish desserts.

Chef andrestaurateur

jIlja Bjj rs owns Juuri Keittio &Baari (Kitchen & Bar), in the

heart of Helsinki. Translated

to roots in Finnish, Juurihas pioneeredthe concept of

sapas, or Finnishsappetisers, amenu of little

bites that includessausages withvodka mustard

and terrine of reindeer liver with

berry jelly.

Horn of plenty (wild mushroom) soup

p y (p

Serves 2Q1 hour 15 minutes QMODERATELY EASY

Finns traditionally eat soups made of

forest mushrooms in autumn, with

toasted rye bread on the side. The puff

pastry in this recipe is a slightly more

sophisticated accompaniment.

onion 1/2, chopped garlic clove 1/2, chopped butter 150grmixed mushrooms (chanterelles,

shiitake, button and porcini) 200gsalt, sugar and white pepper torseason soy sauce 1 tspwhite wine 2-4 tbsp chicken or vegetable stock 1lkcream 1 cupespresso 1/2 cupsparkling water 1/2 cupr

THE PUFF PASTRY

kale leaves 2, parboiled and chopped(try Trikaya available at gourmet stores)butter 20g, meltedrblack pepper to seasonrpuff pastry sheets 2, cut into 10x10-cm pieces (available at your local bakery or try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores) goats cheese 4 tbsp (try Presidentavailable at gourmet stores)egg 1, beaten pumpkin seeds a handful (try Tong Garden available at gourmet stores)

Kalamata olivetapenadeMakes 200g Q15 minutesQEASY

QBlend 100g pitted kalamata olives,50g capers, 25g peeled, crushedgarlic cloves, 10ml extra virgin olive oil and 25g anchovies together ina liquidiser until smooth. Store thetapenade in an airtight jar. It can be refrigerated for up to a month. QPER SERVING 39.67 kcals, protein 1.51g, carbs 2.41g, fat 3.11g, sat fat 0.26g,

fibre 0.43g, salt 0.6g

Sundried tomato andcashew pestoMakes 250g Q30 minutesQEASY

QBlend 1 cup sundried tomatoes,10-12 cashewnuts, 1 garlic clove,2 tbsp parmesan and 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil together in a liquidiser until smooth. Store the pesto in anairtight jar. It can be refrigerated for up to a month.QPER SERVING 90.17 kcals, protein 2.6g, carbs 6.1g, fat 7.17g, sat fat 1.26g,

fibre 1g, salt 0.2g

Cheese and chilli strawsMakes 15 straws Q45 minutesQEASY

QMix 1/2 cup grated processed cheese and 1 tbsp chilli powdertogether and keep aside. Combine 1/2 egg and 2 tbsp milk to make ankegg wash. Place 1 puff pastry sheet ona chopping board and brush it evenly with the egg wash. Sprinkle the cheese

mixture on top of the pastry uniformly. Place a parchment paper on top ofthe cheese mixture so that it is fullycovered.QLightly roll the pastry with a rollingpin so that the cheese mixture gets stuck to the pastry. Remove the parchment paper carefully. Cut thepastry into 2cm strips from top to bottom. Twist each pastry strip andplace on a greased baking tray.QBake at 190C for 20-25 minutesuntil golden and crisp. Cool and store in airtight container for up to 10 days. QPER SERVING 85.4 kcals, protein 1.73g, carbs 6.24g, fat 5.82g, sat fat

3.17g, fibre 0.48g, salt none

Oatmeal cookiesMakes 15-20Q1 hour + refrigeration QEASY

QPreheat the oven to 150C. Mix 150g flour, 200g oats, 100g chopped raisins, a pinch of salt and a pinch ofcinnamon together until evenly mixed and keep aside. Whisk 180g unsalted butter with r 175g brown sugar andr50g caster sugar until smooth, rpreferably with an electric beater. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, and beat well. QAdd the our mixture to the buttermixture. Mix with a wooden spoon untilfully combined to form a dough. Cover the dough with foil and refrigerate foran hour. Place a sheet of parchmentpaper on a clean surface and dust it with some our. Remove the dough from the fridge and place it on the dusted paper. Using a rolling pin, atten

the dough into a 1/2-cm-thick sheet. Cut using a 7cm round cookie cutterand place the cookies on a greasedbaking tray.QBring together all the trimmings, rollinto another sheet of dough and cutwith the cookie cutter.QBake for about 20-25 minutes untillight golden, then allow to cool. Thecookies can be stored in an airtightcontainer for up to two weeks.QPER SERVING 646.67 kcals, protein 12.67g, carbs 93.25g, fat 27.7g, sat fat


Peanut butter cookiesMakes 15 Q1 hour QEASY

QMix 160g butter and 160g peanutbutter together until smooth. Add160g powdered sugar and mix untilrwell combined. Fold in 200g flour andrmix till it forms a dough. Divide the dough into 15 portions and roll into individual balls.QGrease a baking tray with oil. Preheat the oven to 160C. Flattenthe balls lightly and place on the tray,making sure to keep them evenlyspaced. Sprinkle 2 tbsp brown sugarevenly over the cookies.QBake in the oven for about 20 minutes until golden brown, then allow to cool. The cookies can be stored in anairtight container for up to two weeks.QPER SERVING 587.67 kcals, protein 9.86g, carbs 60.76g, fat 35.52g, sat fat

16.09g, fibre 3.07g, salt 0.3g

Why not gift charmingly packaged homemade edibles in your hampers this Diwali?

Recipes AMIT PAMNANI Photograph JOY MANAVATH

its a wrap!

Get to know usOur five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of BBC Good Food India:

7First BiteOur opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages thatfollow. First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. Our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 12

7Eat InThe largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect forthe home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you getit right the very first time you make it. Weve got everythingcovered from easy everyday dinners to showoff menus forthe weekend. P 27

ChhChhC ikiki kikikk LLLititiThese sweeteT shards of hards of candy arecandy are an ideal ATM (any time emmunch). Them yre also cyre also crackinracking good in Diwali gift hampersrs

The brittles will keep for a

week when stored in an airtight

container

Cashew and CCashew andhhhashew andheCashew andnddnd shew and anddd kaffir kakakalime brittlime brittlelime brittlme brittlme brittlme bme brittlme brittltlme brittlme bbrittltlme brittlme brittlme brittlb itbrittlb tleeeeeeeeeeMakes 100g kes 100kes 100es 1010s 100s 1000kes 100gs 100g akeses 0100 Q30 minutes 0 mi0 m0 mi0 minu3 Q EASY

Heat Heat HeaHeaHeat tHHHH 111/2 cup liquid gl111 ucose with 6 tbspssugagssugarssugauggaugarssugar in a heavy-botton a hin a heavy-bottoha bottoottomed pan until it mmed pan unrcaramelcaramelises Switcaramelises. Switmelramelise wiccaramelisesammeliisiscaramelises. Switmelises. Switch off the amech off the ame, cch ofch off the amch off tf the he ch off thch off theff thef thetheth amoff aamme then addddaadd addaadd a 1/2 1/2/2 ccucup1//2 c2 c1/ cup halved cashewnutshalved cashewnuted cashewnd cashcashewalved cashewnshewnuhewnhewnshewnalved cashewnutalved cashewned cashecashewnhewnuved cashewnutslvved cashewnutnuutnutstsh and5 fi5 finely shreddeiinely shreddenely shreddeddddnely shredded5 fi redded kaffir lime leavkafffir lime leavffirffirfir lime ler lime leavka fkaafffi es. Mix well and sMMix well and spMix well anMix well and spoowell and spood sM dd s n the mixture ontn the mhe o an oiled work surk rrk soiled work n face. Let it rface. Let it restace Let it restLce. Let it restface. Let it rce. LeLet it ace. Let it rece. Let it restLet it reresLet it restace. Let it res fofor a ffofoffoominute then atteatteeen with a rolling n with a rolling n with a rolling with a rolling th a rollin with a rollin with a rolling n with a rolling rh a ro ngolth a roa g ppipin. Cut piinto desired shapes while still wahil tillle still warm.QPER SERVING 287.25 kcals, protein 3.5g, carbs 49.41g, fat 9.5g, sat fat 1.75g,

fibre 0.5g, salt none

Pistachio aPi nd rose petals brittlebrMakes 100gQ30 minutes 0 m Q EASY

Heat Hea 1/2 cup liquid gl/2 cup 1/2 cu ucose with 6 tbspsugaruga in an aa heavy-bottoo med pan until itrcaramelises. Switaramelisramem ch off the ame, the ame, ame,he then add dd /2 cup1/2 cup1/2 cup1/2 cup/2 cup chopped pistachioopped pistachiopist h ss andthe petals of 1 rthe petals of 1 rpetals petals ofof 1 als otals o oseose Mix. Mix well and spMix wMi well and s. Mix well and spMix oon oothe mixture onto e mixmixture oxtuture othe mixture onture ou an oiled work surn oiled w uroil d d face. ace.f cLet it restet it rest ft it rest foor atest minute then attente en with tha rolling polling pinling pin.pin. Cut into desired shes apeswhile stillhile stwhile still wwhile still warm.while stilQPER SERVING 256.5 kcals, protein 3.3g, carbs 48.38g, fat 7.11g, sat fat


Almond and coffeebrittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugarb in a heavy-bottomed med edrpan until it caramelises. Switch offthe ame, then add 1/2 cup chopped almonds and 1 tsp instant coffee.Mix well and spoon the mixture onto oan oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 236.75 kcals, protein 2.57g, carbs 46.71g, fat 5.87g, sat fat


Peanut and d smoked paprika brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed medd rpan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup roasted andpeeled peanuts with 1 tsp smoked paprika. Mix well and spoon themixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for aLet it et i minute then atttten with a rolling pin. Cuolling pinng pin t into desired shapes peswhile still warm.illl warwawQPER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 4.31g, carbs 46.98g, fat 8.63g, sat fat


Oats, sesamamame seed and axseed bribd bribr ttleeMakes 100g g gQ330 m30 minutes 0 Q EASY

Heat t 1/2 cup liquid gl1/ ucose with h6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomedrpan until it caramelises. Switch off the eame, then add 1/2 cup oats, 1 tbspsesame seeds, 1 tsp flaxseeds and 1 tbsp raisins. Mix well and spoon themixture onto an oiled work surface.

Let it rest for aet it rest for a minu minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desires edshapes while stiltill warm.l warmQPER SERVING 270.75 kcals, protein 4.03g, carbs 60.13g, fat 2.77g, sat fat


Walnut, cracranberry nberry yand orange brittlerittle

yy

Makes 100gQ30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid gl2 cup liq2 cup liquup liq ucosesewith h 6 tbsp sugarbsp sugasugauga in arheavy-bottomed pattomed pan until it caramelises. Sse witch off hthe ame, then add 1/2 cupchopped walnuts,wal 10-12 dried

cranberries and 1/2 tsp orange zege zestst. . Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surd w face. Let it rest fora minute then atten with a rollingpin. Cut into desired shapes while still llwarm.QPER SERVING 278 kcals, protein 2.55g, carbs 46.91g, fat 10.01g, sat fat

1g, fibre 2.03g, salt none

eat awayeat awayeat awayat awayat awayeeat awayeat awaytt aeeat nlandnnlandnlandnlandnlandnnl n nnd

Horn of plenty soup

Freshly picked blueberries are used in a variety of Finnish desserts

Cabbage rolls wCabbage rolls wiCabbageabbage rolls wits witCCabbage rollg hpumpkin purmpkin pure apure ande ande ande anumpkin pun pureumumpkin puppuu

lingonberringonberronberryonberry compocompoonbe mpolingonb p tetttetete

The Finnish capite al, Helsinki, is also a major port

masterclasmasterclassmaste ssmastemasterclassssterc sddiyiyydiyydiy

VEG IT By leaving

out the anchovies

KalamataKalamKalamata matmolive tapenadeolive tapenadeolive tapenadetolive live tape tapenade

Sundried tomatoundried tomato Sundried tomato rdried tndried tomatand cashew pestoand cashew pesto nd cashew pd cashew p std c tooes o

Oatmeal cookiesokies,okies,Peanut butter cooPeanut butter coout butter coot bu kieskies ies k

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7Eat OutThis section stands out for its uniquely positioned restaurant reviewsand features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restauranttogether with an expert. In Caf Spy, we revisit five classic cafs andwalk you through their heritage. P 131

7Eat AwayOur seasoned travel journalists and food experts arm youwith insider information and recipes from the worlds most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from around the world while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your walletsworth when travelling. P 145

7MasterclassLearn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. We feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchenskills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 150

What better place to measure out your life in coffee spoons or watch the world go by than at a heritage caf? We find out what makes five iconic eateries across the country as special as they are

Kyani & Co is the oldest existing Iranicaf today, established over a centuryago in 1904 (its been in its currentlocation since 1909; for the rst ve years it was located in Girgaum). Inthe 50s, Bombay boasted of around400 Irani cafs, but today, only a fewdozen remain. In their heyday, theywere found at nearly every street cornerin town, often, close to a cinema house. Kyani, in Dhobi Talao, is within walkingdistance of Metro and Edward Cinema.I would see a lot of movies at Metro, oras many as my limited pocket moneywould allow, and after building up anappetite standing in the queue for aticket, like many others I would stop atKyani for a small, affordable bite.

The genteel caf is a monumentto an earlier Bombay. Kyanis proprietor, Farookh Shokriye, is oneof the few third-generation ownersof an Irani caf in most cases, the family is not interested in continuingthe tradition, given the low returnsand high overheads. In 1995, hetook over the reins from his father, Aatoon Khodadad Shokriye, who passed away last month. Within thescuffed splendour of Kyani, theres

HOW WE DID IT The ve cafs featured here are vastly different in character one is a European-style tearoom, another an Irani bakery. The common thread that links these long-standing eateries is that they are beloved of the cities to which they belong. Each of these iconic landmarks is an entrenched local institution, and is considered a must-visit spot for visitors to the city. We have handpicked writers who regularly visit these cafs to write these reviews. They offer an insiders perspective and share a slice of the heritage that is so much a part of every visit.

KYANI & COMUMBAI

Clockwise from

left: Bun maskaand milky Irani

tea; A weighing

machine is one

of the many

relics at the

caf; Batches

of mutton

patties are

prepared daily;

Writer Rafique

Baghdadi

at Kyani.

Facing page:

Chequered

tablecloths and

black bentwood

chairs

epitomise

quaintness at

Kyani

Pho

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aphs

RIT

AM

BA

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JEE

The stuff ofLEGENDS

eat outeat eatt oouuoocaf spycaf saf af sppypyc pycaf spyypyy

111000 BBBBBBCCC GGGoooooodddFFFooooooddd NOVEMBER 2013

REALLYRREALLYQUICKK

Easy after-work dishes that cometogether in a flash

Readyin 30

eadeadLinguine with freshputtanesca sauceServes 2 Q15 minutes QEASYThrow together this simple yet tastypasta dish when youre really pressedrrfor time.

linguine 150g (try Garofalo available atgourmet stores)cherry tomatoes 250g, choppedcapers 2 tbsp, rinsed (try Epicureavailable at gourmet stores)

garlic clove 1/2, crushedflat-leaf parsley a small bunch,choppedred chilli 1, nely choppedgreen olives 12, pitted and chopped(try Iliada available at gourmet stores)lemon 1, juiced

olive oil 3 tbspsalt and pepper to season r

QCook the linguine following thepacket instructions.QTo make the sauce, put the rest ofthe ingredients in a large bowl, addthe olive oil, season and toss together.Drain the pasta and toss with thesauce.QPER SERVING 309 kcals, protein 11.1g,carbs 59.7g, fat 4.6g, sat fat 0.6g, fibre4.4g, salt 2.5g

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How to get the best from Good Food India

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA PROMISEWe hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurantreviews and travel features. We attempt to make themfun to read, but we are also serious about eating well anddoing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from thisand every issue:TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are testedat least three times. For great results, we recommendyou use standard level measuring spoons, and dont mix imperial and metric measures.EASY RECIPES Most of Good Foods recipes are quickand simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients.THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect forelaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy agood challenge.GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to makethe most of your budget 7 meals for ` 700. We also use `full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of usingup leftovers.SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredientsin our recipes because they give the food a distinctavour and add seasonal freshness.HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%indulgent way of eating is best which is why we supportour recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how togive popular recipes a healthy makeover.PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we usehumanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced sh and unrened sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call Yfor ingredients that arent available locally and cant be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. Itsyour choice whether or not you use them.CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-walleateries and ne dining restaurants theres room forboth in Good Foods Eat Out pages.LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section armsyou with insider info and recipes from the worlds mostexciting food destinations written by on-the-ground foodjournalists.BIG ISSUES Preaching doesnt come naturally, so wewont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food worldin our Good Food Investigates feature. We explore thecontroversial subject of insects as food on p 20.

Why you can cook ourrecipeswith confidence

y yy y

All the recipes in Good Food are testedthoroughly, so theyll work the rsttime for you at home. Most of ourrecipes are developed in the GoodFood test kitchen by our cookeryteam or come from food writers andchefs. We aim to make our recipesas practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum andavoiding lengthy preparations.

How we triple test our recipes

p

1 The rst time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen.

2 Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen.

3 The recipe is then tested at ourphoto shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Foodeditorial team were all keen cooksand often cant resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as weve discovered it.

Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, butmistakes can be costly, so we think itmakes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

FORSKILLEDCOOKSS

REALLYREALLYREALLYQUICKK

REALLYRREALLYEASYY

Showoff recipes when you fancy a challenge. Theserecipes require a little effort.

Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfectfor hectic weekdays.

Those recipes marked withthis stamp are the simplestand require very little effort.

What our symbolsmeanEASY Recipes everyone can make,even beginners. These dishes areusually quick, often on the table within20 minutes.MODERATELY EASY These requirea bit more skill for example makingand rolling out pastry.A LITTLE EFFORT

Recipes aimed at experienced cookswho cook for pleasure and like achallenge.CAN BE FROZENUnless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months.Defrost thoroughly and heat untilpiping hot.VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

Over to youHave a family recipe toshare or think you couldadd to our recipes? Emailus at [email protected] and let us know. Werealways on the look out fornew places and food storiesand would love to hear aboutgreat places to eat in yourhometown.

LOOK OUT FOR THESE HIGHLIGHTS

For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 155


first bite

When it comes to the crunch, crackly, nutty brittles are just the ticket

rst bitenews, trends, shopping

Brittle StarsRecipes AMIT PAMNANI Photographs JOY MANAVATH

SUGAR DANDIES These sticky chunks of hardened candy are traditionally made with nuts and melted sugar or honey. While the term brittle was popularised in America, almost every country has its version of this crackly delight: cupeta in Italy,pasteli in Greece and croquant in France. Closer home, we know it aschikki.

Brittles add an exciting element to almost any food on your plate, from ice cream sundaes to salads. Turn overleaf for six innovative recipes, where weve updated the classic caramelised treat with everything from a handful of kaffir lime leaves to lashings of smoked paprika.

Chikki LitThese sweet shards of candy are an ideal ATM (any time munch). Theyre also cracking good in Diwali gift hampers

The brittles will keep for a

week when stored in an airtight

container

Cashew and kaffir lime brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup halved cashewnuts and 5 finely shredded kaffir lime leaves. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 287.25 kcals, protein 3.5g, carbs 49.41g, fat 9.5g, sat fat 1.75g,

fibre 0.5g, salt none

Pistachio and rose petals brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup chopped pistachios and the petals of 1 rose. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 256.5 kcals, protein 3.3g, carbs 48.38g, fat 7.11g, sat fat


Almond and coffee brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup chopped almonds and 1 tsp instant coffee. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm. QPER SERVING 236.75 kcals, protein 2.57g, carbs 46.71g, fat 5.87g, sat fat


Peanut and smoked paprika brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup roasted and peeled peanuts with 1 tsp smoked paprika. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 4.31g, carbs 46.98g, fat 8.63g, sat fat


Oats, sesame seed and axseed brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup oats, 1 tbsp sesame seeds, 1 tsp flaxseeds and 1 tbsp raisins. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface.

Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 270.75 kcals, protein 4.03g, carbs 60.13g, fat 2.77g, sat fat


Walnut, cranberry and orange brittleMakes 100g Q30 minutes Q EASY

Heat 1/2 cup liquid glucose with 6 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed pan until it caramelises. Switch off the ame, then add 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, 10-12 dried cranberries and 1/2 tsp orange zest. Mix well and spoon the mixture onto an oiled work surface. Let it rest for a minute then atten with a rolling pin. Cut into desired shapes while still warm.QPER SERVING 278 kcals, protein 2.55g, carbs 46.91g, fat 10.01g, sat fat

1g, fibre 2.03g, salt none


need to knownews, trends, shopping

Cheats pancetta and arugula risotto Serves 2 Q 40 minutes Q EASY

Boil 250g De Cecco Arborio Rice ( `180/500g) in chicken or vegetable stock according to packet instructions. Cook4 finely sliced onions (` 36/500g) and a pack of chopped pancetta ( `400/100g) in a little butter. Stir in the rice and divide between two plates. Top with a few arugula leaves (` 20/100g) and serve.

THE CASE FOR

If there is a culinary equivalent of an intrepid explorer, thats what I am. Grilled cockroaches on a stick? One please. Ant chutney? Ill have that as a side with parathas. Crisp-fried grasshopper? Make that ve. While creepy-crawlies crept into food cultures due to topographic and economic constraints, they might just be here to stay with the global food crisis becoming a looming reality (see p 20). Once you get past your initial squeamishness, its much like eating any meat or small sh, fried to an unrecognisable crisp. I love the crunch and the good protein it adds to my diet. Not to mention the wonderful weirdness it adds to my travel stories.

KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

THE JURYS OUTEating insects How to use up

SUPERMARKET SWEEPPop into the supermarket for a quick, flavour-packed meal

THE CASE AGAINST

I get creeped out every time a bug comes within swatting distance of me, so theres no way anyone can convince me to put a crawly creature in my mouth.

Yes, I know they are a high source of

protein and are part of the staple diet in many

countries, but seriously,

why would I eat fried beetles, crickets, or

worse, slimy worms, while theres still the option of chomping on good ol chicken? The thought of biting down on a spindly leg here or an antenna there makes my stomach ip. I dont care if grasshoppers are the food of the future. Id rather eat grass, thank you.

PRIYANKA HOSANGADI

7 Sherried pumpkin soup Fry 1 sliced onion in 2 tbsp olive oil until soft. Add 4 tbsp sherry and 1kg peeled and chopped pumpkin and sizzle for 1-2 minutes. Pour in 600ml vegetable stock. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes until the pumpkin is tender. Pure in a food processor. Reheat and serve topped with croutons and a parsley sprig. 7 Sherried chicken and ham bake Preheat the oven to 200C. Mix 350g roast chicken, 140g ham and 175g peas in a buttered dish. Put 50g butter, 50g flour and 600ml milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil, whisking until the sauce is thick. Stir in 3 tbsp sherry and 2 tsp mustard. Season to taste and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in 50g grated cheddar. Pour the sauce over the ingredients in the dish. Mix another 50g grated cheddar with 50g chopped nuts and sprinkle over. Bake for 25-35 minutes.

7 Sticky chicken with sherry and dates Heat the oven to 200C. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan. Season 8 chicken legs, then brown on all sides. Keep aside in a baking dish. Add 2 tbsp olive oil, 2 chopped onions and 15 garlic cloves in the pan and season

to taste. Fry until golden. Stir in 1 tsp ground cumin, 250ml sherry and the zest and juice of 1 lemon. Bring to the boil, then add 50g chopped almonds, 12 chopped dates and 10g chopped parsley. Pour the sauce over. Cover and roast for 1 hour until tender, taking the foil off after 15 minutes. Serve with the sauce poured over, the garlic cloves, some extra parsley and lemon zest.

7 Try Barbadillo available at wine shops, ` 2,502 for 750ml.

CUPBOARD LOVE SHERRY

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FRESH ON THE SHELVESCOCKTAIL OF THE MONTHWinter Pimms punchMakes 1 Q5 minutes QEASY

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SMART COOKS GREEN CHILLI POWDER` 35 for 40g`This green chilli powder hasa potent, even foreboding,aroma. The instructionsclearly recommend using itin moderation. We used apinch of the powder to addavour to jowar bhakris. Atrst we were deceived by thebhakris mild taste, until we felt the distinct burn of thepowder in our throats. Still, it is a subtle kind of heat that wontreduce you to tears, so its perfect for salads or to add a bit of punch to a savouryoats porridge.

ASAS SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS` 300 for 250g`

Sichuan peppercorns aredistinguished by their reddish-

brown colour and pepperyfragrance. But beware, bitinginto one is a tongue-numbingexperience. We used themin a Chinese-style vegetable

soup but found ourselvesshing out the peppercorns after

a while. We recommend coarselypounding them and using them as a dry

rub for meat or sh. Remember, the idea is to usethem in spicy dishes as their numbing quality helps you cope better with the heat.

SEMPIO GREEN TEA VERMICELLI` 325 for 300g`Products avoured with green tea often sound tastier than they are. Sempios Green Tea Vermicelli is no exception. Though it has a promising aroma, the delicate fragrancedissipates once youve cooked it. The noodles have a toothsome bite like that of soba noodles, but their dull,doughy taste is only uplifted by a citrusy ponzu sauce. Givethese noodles a miss and opt for nutritious soba instead.

KITCHENAID IN INDIA!KitchenAid, the worlds premium kitchen appliances manufacturer, has always been synonymous with quality craftsmanship and high performance gadgets. Its most celebrated product, the stand mixer, is an icon in its own

early every ear-old Americannticipated entry couldnt be

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EURISKA, PUNEEuriska (Greek for I discover) is the latest restaurant to pop up in a locality dotted with eateries at every turn. It specialises in Greek and Mediterranean fare. The place doubles as a venue for gigs and makes for an ideal setting for a soire. The menu comprises a range of appetisers (they serve an octopus cracknel salad), souvlakia, spice-rubbed grills, pastas, pizzas and risottos, along with an elaborate cocktail list. Ask for the honey-avoured baked Greek dessert, Strava, or the sorbet of the day. Next to Koregaon Park Plaza, Koregaon Park

Annexe, Pune. Tel: +91 90491 59911

MARITIME BY SAN LORENZO,MUMBAI The launch of Maritime by San Lorenzo marks the international debut of Londons timeless Italian eatery, Osteria San Lorenzo. The menu offers rustic northern Italian specialities such as Spaghetti Schillaci, Tagliata of Chicken Breast with Balsamic Sauce, Polenta alla Piemontese, a bounty of vegetarian dishes, and a lavish selection of Italian wines. Most of the ingredients are imported from Italy, so diners will rack up quite a few food miles. Taj Lands End, Bandstand, Bandra (W),

Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 6668 1234

GUPPY BY AI, NEW DELHI Restaurateur AD Singh has transformed Guppys shuttered predecessor, Ai, into a colourful Japanese dining space brimming with anime-inspired murals and origami installations. On offer is a range of sushi and sashimi, small plates and ramen. Opt for the set lunch comprising a soup, salad, a main, sushi rolls and a choice of rice or noodles, along with dessert and green tea. The signature Black Cod with Miso, Pork Belly and Yuzu Cheesecake are popular choices. 28, Main Market, Lodhi Colony, New Delhi.

Tel: + 91 11 2469 0005

TABLE HOPPING Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block

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E-IDEAS WEimly.in In June this year, entrepreneur Abhishek Singh came up with the idea of launching a one-stop portal to sell and order home-cooked fare online. He called his initiative imly.in, a tribute to his mothers delicious imli chutney. Now, various homemade delicacies such as bacon jam, organic soy sauce, mango pachadi and salted caramel tarts are just a click away. The virtual marketplace has modelled itself as a foodie community of small-scale home cooks, food caterers and gourmands across the country. Home chefs keen to set up shop on the website can select their preferred areas of delivery or key in a pick-up address for customers to collect their orders. If you lack photography skills, the folks at imly.com will happily send a professional shutterbug over. Visit imly.in or write to [email protected]

for details.

bowlstoyou.com This little start-up specialises in healthy salad lunches and offers ofce-goers in Mumbai much needed respite from greasy canteen fare. Advertising professional Pinank Shah, who started the venture in December last year, offers around a dozen vegetarian salads prepared by amateur home cooks on his whimsically designed website. Though a tad confusing to navigate, persevere: intriguing options in a bowl include Exotic fruit salad, Mexican bean salad and Chinese pasta salad. The delivery service operates across Mumbai via the faultlessly efcient dabbawalas. Our only gripe they dont deliver on Sundays. Visit bowlstoyou.com or call +91 98205

02010 for details.

samaas.inAuthentic regional food isnt always easy to replicate at home. This is why online food delivery service samaas.in ought to be bookmarked. Tanmay and Tintoo Degwekar,

who kicked off this initiative in September 2012,

teamed up with home cooks to offer

traditional meals to Mumbaikars. Its simple: choose your cuisine (Bengali, Kashmiri,

Malvani, Parsi, Puneri, Punjabi or

Tamilian), and call at least six hours ahead

on +91 22 2617 4716 to place your order.

Visit samaas.in for details or follow them on

Twitter @samaasindia.

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need to knowpantry basics

Nothing spreads happiness like butter. We put six salted varieties to the testWords KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA Products courtesy FOODHALL

Cake tins

ON TEST Salted butter

BRITANNIA` 160/500gWhat strikes us rstabout this butter is thealarmingly high sodium content 1,048mg per 100g, the highest amongall the tested brands.However, it doesnt lose out on avour. Pale yellowin colour with a creamyaftertaste, Britannias butter is more suitedto cooking than baking.While the light, velvety texture works beautifully as table butter, it is notsolid enough to be a good baking butter; our pie tartturned out a tad oily.

MOTHER DAIRY ` 31/100gThis butter is smooth without being too rich. It has a distinctive savoury avour found in most salted Indian butters. It melts almost too quickly not the best quality when making pastry or biscuit bases. On the other hand, its soft consistencyis perfect for frostings and as a base for cooking. The agreeable salty aftertastedissipates within seconds, and doesnt leave behind any residual unpleasantness.

GOWARDHAN `165/500gWith a full, nutty avour and deep yellowcolour, this is a sharper tasting butter thanwe are used to. It earns bonus points overits competitors with a neat and thoughtful

packaging solution. The butter is packed in twoindividual blocks that t right into your butter dish.

GALA DEEP DISH TIN ` 110This deep-dish tin is perfect for making airysponge cakes that need height to rise. The vertical, straight sides ensure the sponge mixture rises to its maximum height, resulting in a feather-light cake. The loosebase, which doesnt let any of the cake batter leak, and the non-stick nish, makes it quickand easy to lift the cake out.

AMUL ` 31/100gAs ardent loyalists of this iconicbrand, we can discern Amuls saltycreaminess with our eyes shut. Whilesome might nd it over-salted, we love theintense savoury tang it adds to our toastedsandwiches and bakes. The butter melts really quickly, making it a breezeto slather generously on bread. Be judicious when using for baking.

LURPAK ` 345/200gThis Danish brand instantlyreminds us of the butter ourparents say they grew up eating creamy, mildly saltedand with a distinct taste of itsown. Lurpak has a avour thatcan be compared to a very mildcream cheese, which we love! Its rich consistency translatesinto a thick generous smear when spread on bread. It also makes for the ideal butter for baking as it creams well, which is great for puff pastryand butter cream frostings.

ELLE & VIRE ` 275/200gThis is the kind of butter youd nd on the table at a good restaurant in France. Like most butters from Normandy, Elle & Vire too has a dominanavour the delightful result of varied pastures, with aromatic herbs, forgrazing cows. It is dense but softens easily and is of spreadable consistency.As its expensive, youll probably want to save it for your toast.

TRAMONTINA LOAF TIN ` 500Its not everyday that one bakes a loaf of teacake but when you do, look no further than this tin. With a 100 per cent thicknon-stick coated steel nish, this tin doesits job awlessly and does not require any additional greasing. Its rectangular body means you gedges, requiboth breadloaves andteacakes.

TCHIBO SPRINGFORM TIN ` 160 A loose springform tin with a detachablebase is a good choice for delicate no-bake cheesecakes and mousse cakes. We areimpressed with this sturdy, easy to clean,

n-stick steel body. The clamp on theside is secured by an overlapping

mechanism designed to prevent any leaks. We

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Weve featuredmany a Sunday brunch, but a deal comprisingunlimited foodand liquor is hard to comeby. The Pan Asian restaurantWokamama,specialising in Chinese and

Thai fare, offers diners a choice of three deals pairing unlimited foodwith domestic liquor (` (( 1,025), Indian-made foreign liquor ((` ( 1,175) orinternational liquor (`(( 1,595). Appetisers on offer include chicken and `vegetable dim sum and satay; mains include Southeast Asian curries anda variety of vegetable stir-fries, noodles and rice dishes. Round off yourmeal with Honey-glazed Noodles with Ice Cream or Coconut Rollswith Pickled Raisin and Cinnamon. Tel: +91 124 496 9191; Daily7 pm 11.30 pm.

Good Food tracks down this months top foodie meals and dealsd

` 248-A-HEAD DINNER `PARTY FOR 4!

UNLIMITED LIQUOR AND FOOD AT WOKAMAMA,GURGAON

7 7

All prices PER HEAD

excluding taxes and travel

Total `991(` 248` per head)

7 Sichuan pepper noodles (p 31) ` 3887 Paprika chicken ciabattas (p 39) ` 335`

7 Imarti with coconut ice cream (p 48) ` 268

Digital start-up gourmetitup.com has partnered with theMahalaxmi-based restaurant,Neel at Tote on the Turf, whichspecialises in Awadhi and Kashmiri cuisine. Members ofGourmet It Up can avail of a ve-course thali-style spreadworth ` 1,200, comprising`shorba, kebabs, mains,accompaniments such as dumbiryani or assorted naans, anddessert. Some of the kebabs on offer include Peshawari Paneer Kebabs and Murgh ChaarbaghTikka, while mains compriseGosht aur Kareli ki Nihari and

Nadru ki Yakhni. End your meal with Angoori Rabdi, a creamy dessertmade with chhena (curd cheese). Visit gourmetitup.com to register or call athe concierge service on +91 96195 51387.

The Japanese Restaurant Season, organised by the government ofJapan as part of the second edition of the Oishii Japan festival, aimsto popularise Japanese cuisine. The event gives culinary acionados a chance to enjoy authentic fare at a fraction of the regular rates. Participating restaurants include Aoi, India Jones, Kofuku, Sushiand More and Umame in Mumbai, and Asia Seven, Guppy by Ai and Megu among others in New Delhi. Until November 10th. Visit cooljapanfestival.com/oishii.japan for details or to make reservations.

JAPANESE RESTAURANT SEASON, MUMBAI AND NEW DELHI

GOURMET IT UPSFIVE-COURSE MEAL AT NEEL, MUMBAI7 7

BARGAINHUNTER


Dont miss a chance to win a three-night weekend stay at the JW MarriottBengaluru, one of the citys nest ve-star luxury hotels. Stay in a suitewith a stunning view of the landmark Cubbon Park. With a variety of

excellent dining options, foodies are sure to enjoy the gourmet experiences on offer. The ptisserie, Bengaluru Baking Company, is a visual treat withits interactive open baking area and an extravagant spread of snacks andbeverages. Enjoy a romantic meal under the stars at Spice Terrace, the poolsideIndian speciality restaurant. You can even soak in the rustic ambience at Albaas you feast on some of the best Italian dishes. This Italian speciality restaurant is designed like an amphitheatre with a show kitchen, so you can watch chefs prepare your dinner. And after a lavish meal, get rejuvenated at their spa with aSwedish massage. Its an opportunity to get pampered to the hilt! Send in yourcompleted entry form for the chance to win.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR CLAIMING THE GIFT VOUCHER/COUPON THROUGH A LUCKY DRAW:1. The lucky draw is organised by Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd (WWM) and is binding onall participants to this lucky draw. All applications for participation would be in theoriginal form. Only one entry permitted per person. Entries made in bulk or by thirdparties are prohibited. WWM reserves the right to cancel any duplicate entries and debar all such entries from the lucky draw at its own discretion. 2. Entries receivedafter the closing date of the contest shall not be entertained and wont be returned.3. The result declared by WWM is nal and no further queries or complaints or questions will be entertained. WWM is further not obliged to respond to the same. 4.

The winner of the contest is entitled to stay on a weekend at the JW MarriottBengaluru in a suite facing Cubbon Park for 3 nights. There is no cash alternativeand the prize is not transferable. 5. The winner of the lucky draw shall pay and be responsible for the Income tax and any other statutory taxes or surcharges beforeclaiming the gift coupon/ voucher. The winner of the lucky draw shall give the proof of payment of Income tax and any other statutory taxes before claiming the gift coupon/ voucher. 6. WWM is not responsible for difference or variance or deciency in the service by JW Marriott Bengaluru and will not have any obligation to respond

to any of the complaints of the winner(s). 7. WWM reserves the right to change/modify the terms and conditions of this offer or to withdraw this offer at any point in time, if circumstances arise beyond our control. 8. The participants to this contest, including the winner, agree that the details disclosed in the Competition Entry Form would become the property of WWM and its afliates, JW Marriott Bengaluru, and the participants, including the winner, further agree that the details can be used for all purposes (including commercial and promotional use) as WWM and JW Marriott Bengaluru deem t. 9. The winner will be notied within a month of the closingdate of the contest. If WWM cannot contact the winner within one month of the closing date, then WWM will offer the prize to a runner-up, or re-offer the prize in another promotion. 10. The winner has to collect the prize within one month of being notied/ informed by WWM of the result. If the winner fails to collect the prize within the time period specied, it would be assumed that he has forfeited his claim to the prize and WWM is then allowed to offer the prize to a runner-up, or re-offerthe prize in another promotion. 11. The hotel accommodation is valid till 31st March 2014, subject to availability. Reservation needs to be made in advance and blackout dates may apply. 12. The winner would need to abide by the terms and conditions of JW Marriott Bengaluru. 13. WWM would not be liable in any manner whatsoever

for any loss, damage or injury occurring to the winner, arising from their entry or acceptance of the prize. 14. This contest is only open to Indian residents aged 18+ years. The guest of the winner would also be an Indian resident also aged 18+. 15. Employees of WWM and JW Marriott Bengaluru and the other sponsors, and their relatives and business associates are not eligible to take part in this lucky draw. 16. JW Marriott Bengaluru reserves the right to unconditionally modify/append this offer without prior notice. 17. The offer is valid for a couple only and is not applicable to groups or special discounted rates. 18. The offer does not includeconsumption of cigarettes and alcohol. 19. The winner will bear the cost of travel from his home town to Bengaluru airport. JW Marriott Bengaluru will arrange for two-way airport transfers. 20. The package includes breakfast and lunch in thecoffee shop, Sunday brunch, a dinner at the coffee shop, second nights dinner at the Italian speciality restaurant Alba and the third dinner at Spice Terrace, the poolside Indian restaurant. 21. The package also includes a Swedish massage for two.22. Anything over and above the agreed offer will be charged extra.

COMPETITION ENTRY FORMFor a chance to win this fantastic prize, simply ll in your detailsand post this form to: BBC Good Food India (November 2013),aWorldwide Media Pvt Ltd, The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr DN Road, Mumbai 400001 before November 30, 2013.

Title First name SurnameAddress

Pincode CountryyPhone number Email*DOB / /

Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd, publisher of Good Food India, may contact you with details of its products and services to undertake research. If you prefer not to receive such information by post or phone,please tick this box Please include your email address if you prefer to receive such information byemail. We may occasionally pass on your details to carefully selected companies whose products and services we feel may be of interest to you. If you prefer not to receive such information by post orphone, please tick this box

WINA LUXURY WEEKEND TRIPExperience ve-star opulence at the exquisite JW Marriott, Bengaluru

WORTH

`1.2LAKH


The idea of eating insects might ruin your appetite, but entomophagy is here to stay. BBC Good Food tells you why bugs might be the food of the future

Words VIDYA BALACHANDER

ENTOMOPHAGYinvestigates

For even the most daredevil eaters who wouldnt shy away from trying all kinds of outlandish meats, bugs can

be the nal frontier. Creepy-crawlies evoke a near universal sense of disgust; far from rushing to put them on our plates, we race to exterminate them from our homes. To willingly ingest an insect remains an impossible feat for most it is the line many simply wouldnt cross in search of gastronomic thrills. Yet, even as the subject remains controversial and evokes extreme reactions, entomophagy, or the human practice of eating insects, has never been more relevant than it is today.

Entomophagy is derived from the Greek words entomon, meaning insects and phagein, or to eat. It has long been an integral part of culinary cultures around the world, yet it is only in the last few years that entomophagy has suddenly caught the attention of food policy makers. As food security and scarcity become mounting concerns, many researchers and professionals from the food industry are looking anew at insects and exploring their viability as a cheap and ecologically sustainable source of nourishment.

But why insects, you might ask. Isnt there a more crowd-pleasing solution to the worlds food problems? Well, the fact is, were fast running out of options. In 2013, the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO) predicted that at the rate

Skewered insects are a popular snack in some countries

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need to knowfood issues

at which the worlds population is currently growing, it is likely to swell to nine billion by 2050. The demand for food is expected to rise by at least 50 per cent and simultaneously, our global food reserves are at a 50-year low.

Conventional food choices such as meat require signicant investment of precious natural resources that will become a luxury in the near future. Already, the FAO estimates that pasture for livestock and agricultural crops that are used as fodder take up 70 per cent of the planets available agricultural land. In order to make more room

for the meat industry, we may need to resort to clearing rainforests and other green lungs of the planet. Plant-based diets are also likely to put a considerable strain on agricultural resources. A study conducted this year by researchers from the University of Minnesota, published in the academic journal PLOS ONE, showed that the world is likely to face an agricultural crisis by 2050. Agricultural yields are simply not keeping pace with

accelerating demand.Faced with this frightening reality,

the FAO began to seriously consider the possibility of treating insects as a source of food. This year, the organisation released a book called Edible Insects: Future Prospects for Food and Feed Security, in association with the Wageningen University in the Netherlands, which has undertaken some pioneering work on the subject in the past few years. The book makes a strident and well-researched case for putting aside our value judgements and giving insects a chance.

A BELOVED SNACKAs proof, Edible Insects states that far from being a new-fangled trend, entomophagy is an ancient and well-established practice among several communities around the world. The statistics are eye-opening: according to the FAO, nearly 80 per cent of the worlds populace consumes insects, which puts the naysayers in a tiny minority! In 2012, an inventory

put together by Yde Jongema, an entomologist at Wageningen University, showed that nearly 1,900 species of insects are eaten, including common ones such as ants, beetles, bees, crickets, cicadas, grasshoppers and wasps, and uncommon varieties such as scorpions and tarantulas. Eating insects is common in North, Central and South America, several parts of Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

In many cultures, far from being considered famine supplies, insects are afforded pride of place in local culinary customs. A case in point is the atta laevigata, a particularly large species of leafcutter ants, affectionately called hormiga culona (ants with a large backside, translated from Spanish) in Colombia. Prized as a delicacy thats preserved and eaten all year round, even the harvesting of these ants has a sense of ceremony about it. Only the queens of the species are considered edible. They emerge from their anthills to nd a mate for only a few days every year a phenomenon known as the nuptial ight. This richly anticipated period lasts for a few weeks, sometime between April and June. It is then that local peasants catch the insects, soak them in salty water and roast them until theyre crunchy. Likened to salty peanuts or pork rinds, the demand for hormiga culona is so high in these parts that the ants command a hefty price and are also exported.

In other parts of the world, bugs of different stripes are a more matter-of-fact part of life. Indigenous Australian tribes consume several large, white, wood-eating larvae, locally known as witchetty grub. Witchetty grubs are valued as a cheap and readily available source of protein. The larvae, which are said to taste like almonds, are either eaten raw or cooked on hot ashes. Insects are relished throughout Southeast Asia too, where vendors selling a variety of fried bugs are a common sight in open-air markets.

Farther east, the Chinese exhibit more derring-do in their appetite for insects, with choices such as scorpions, centipedes and silkworm cocoons

ONE PLATE AT A TIMEAcross the world, chefs are beginning to hop on to the insect bandwagon. Nomas Ren Redzepi (read about him on p 72) has been experimenting with insects for a few years with dishes such as Blueberry and Ants, a dessert made of ant paste, milk curd and berry preserves. He is also known to serve live ants and fermented grasshoppers. Last month, Australian chef Kylie Kwong (see p 89for an interview with her) served a dish o

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