activewear performance testingintertek-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/ · 1 © intertek 2016. all rights...

www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved. www.intertek.com 1

Presented by Rajath Kumar

February 2016

Activewear Performance

Testing

www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.

www.intertek.com 2 © Intertek 2016,

All Rights Reserved

Agenda – to be modified Capture the vast opportunities of the

global Activewear market

2015 2020

US$

Source: Allied Market Research, 2015

CARG 4.3%

$149 bn $185 bn



All Rights Reserved

Activewear: clothing designed to be

worn for sports, exercise,

outdoor endeavors and

other recreational activities.

Fitness

Sportswear

Athleisure

Fitness

Snow

Outdoor

Accessories


www.intertek.com 4 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.

Performance Testing for Activewear

Activewear Function & Performance Properties

Antibacterial & Anti-mold

Windproof

Water Resistant & Breathability

Water Repellant

Quick-Dry

UV Protection

Thermal Regulation

Stretch & Recovery

© Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.


Textiles with Antibacterial/

Odor-control/

Anti-mold Functions



Antibacterial Testing

For products with anti-odor properties

Why does odor happen?

• Micro-organisms grow on perspiration causes unpleasant odors

How are anti-odor claims verified?

• Anti-microbial agent is applied to kill microorganisms, thus removing

the root case of the unpleasant odor




What is a good anti-microbial agent?

• Good activity with wide coverage

• Sustainable, resistance to washing

• Inexpensive

• Safe to humans and the environment

• No effect on the texture and color of garments

What anti-microbial agents are commonly used?

• Organic, e.g., alcohol, ammonium salt

• Inorganic, e.g., silver, zinc

• Natural, e.g., Chitonsan




How is anti-bacterial function tested?

Qualitative method

• Applicable to leaching and

slightly leaching agent

• For non-leaching agent, result

will be not significant

• Standards:

• AATCC 147 (most used)

• ISO 20645

• SN 195920

• JIS L1902

• CNS 13097

Quantitative method

• Applicable to both leaching and non-leaching agent

• More time-consuming

• Standards:

• AATCC 100 (most used)

• JIS L1902

• ISO 20743

• CNS 14945 & 14946

• ASTM E2149




How is the qualitative AATCC 147 conducted?

• This standard is widely used in commercial applications

• The test results are dependent on fabric structure

• Commercial requirement: No growth of microbes

• “Clear zone” is for observation, not to determine the “effectiveness” by it

Inhibition of growth beneath the specimen and a “clear

zone” are observed beyond its

edge.



Anti-mold Testing

For products with anti-mold properties

Why does mold happen?

• Mold is a fungal micro-organism that grows in favorable

environments

Why is mold a problem?

• For consumers, outdoor products might be exposed to mold

fungus in the wild and mold grows fast in the home environment



Anti-mold Testing

How is anti-mold function tested?

• Standards include:

• AATCC 30 III (most used)

• ASTM G21 (most used)

• JIS Z2911

• CNS 2690

• EN 14119 B2



Anti-mold Testing

How is the AATCC 30 III test conducted?

• This test method is mostly used for textile products

• Growth of microbes on agar plate is observed for 2 weeks

• Commercial requirement: No growth

Observed results:

• No growth (with clear zone)

• Microscopic growth

• Macroscopic growth



Anti-mold Testing

How is the ASTM G21 test conducted?

• This test method is mostly used for plastic materials and synthetic

leather

• Growth of microbes on specimen is observed for 4 weeks.

• Commercial requirement:

Strictest: Rating 0 (No growth) / Stricter: Not less than Rating 1

Result rating:

0 – None (no growth)

1 – Traces of growth (less than 10%)

2 – Light growth (10% - 30%)

3 – Medium growth (30% - 60%)

4 – Heavy growth (60% or above)



Antibacterial & Anti-mold Testing

Durability & Wash Procedure

• To better stimulate real use of garments, repeated washes

are highly recommended before anti-bacterial and anti-mold

testing

• Common wash methods:

• Home laundering e.g. AATCC 135, ISO 6330

• 20 or 25 wash cycles

• In general, durability of in-fiber treatment is better than that

of after-treatment



Windproof



Windproof Testing

For products with windproof properties

How do we determine windproof property of fabric?

• Windproof property of a fabric is rated by its air permeability

• The rate of air flow passing perpendicularly through a known area

of fabric is adjusted to obtain a prescribed air pressure differential

between the two fabric surfaces

• From this rate of air flow, the air permeability of the fabric is

determined



Windproof Testing

How do we test air permeability?


• ASTM D737

• ISO 9237



Windproof Testing

What is the result determination?

• Low air permeability is regarded as providing good windproofing

• High air permeability is regarded as providing poor windproofing


• ≤ 0 cfm (for windproof)

• < 3 cfm (for outdoor)

• < 15 cfm (for casual wear)



Water Resistance & Breathability



Water Resistance & Breathability Testing

Why is breathability a concern?

• Breathability refers to transfer of sweat from the human body into

the air through textiles

• The more breathable the fabric is, the more comfortable the

wearer would be

• Breathability is often tested together with water resistance as

consumers want garments to be comfortable




How are water resistant and breathability properties achieved?

• By weaving

• High Density Fabric with microfiber

• By finishing

• Lamination

• Coating




How is water resistance testing conducted?


• AATCC 127

• EN 20811 (ISO 811)

• BS 5066, etc.

• In general, the sample is clamped to the specimen stand

with water pressure added, in the form of direct contact or

shower spray; water that appears or held at the fabric is

measured for result assessment




How is breathability determined?

• It is measured by:

• Water Vapor Permeability (WVP): refers to the evaporation

of sweat into air via textiles, plus

• Water vapor resistance (Ret): is the difficulty of water vapor

passing through fabric

• The higher the WVP but lower water vapor resistance, the more

breathable the garment is and thus more comfortable to wearer




How do we test water vapor permeability?


• ASTM E96

• JIS 1099

• BS 7209

How do we test water vapor resistance?


• ASTM F1868

• ISO 11092 (EN31092)

• JIS L1099



Requirements for Water Resistance & Breathability

Test Method Common Requirements

Water Resistance

EN 20811 (ISO 811)

General: 800 mm min.

Water resistance: 1,500mm min.

Waterproof: 3,000 mm min.

Ski jacket: over 10,000 mm

Breathability

Water Vapor Permeability, WVP( ASTM E 96, JIS L1099…)

• General outdoor cloth ≥ 800 g/m2/24 hours

• Windproof and breathable item: 2,000 g/m2/24 hours

• Water resistance and breathable item: 3,000 g/m2/24 hours

• Storm resistance and breathable: 5,000 g/m2/24 hours

• Ski jacket: over 8,000 or 10,000 g/m2/24 hours

Water Vapor Resistance, Ret (ISO 11092, EN 31092…)

• Water resistance and breathable jacket: 6 ≤ Ret < 13

• Ski jacket : 13 ≤ Ret < 27

• Fishing jacket, wind coat and rain coat : 27 ≤ Ret < 40



Water Repellency



Water Repellency Testing

For products with water repellent properties

What is water repellency?

• It refers to the resistance of outdoor apparel to surface wetting

• Repellency is most commonly used for “water proof” outerwear




How is water repellency achieved?

• By surface treatment to create the “Lotus effect”

• Lower the “surface tension” of fabric

• Water droplets cohesive and “spray out” by gravity

• The way to achieve it

• by compactly, wax or silicon coating

• Coating by hydrophobic chemicals: fluoropolymer based

• Good water repellency

• But controversial with “sustainability concerns” due

to potential hazard




How is the water repellency test conducted?


• EN ISO 4920

• AATCC 22

• The sample is placed in a specimen holder at 45° with water poured into a

funnel suspended above the specimen. The funnel allows constant and

stable spray of water on the samples. Samples are assessed after a fixed

time spraying and tapping.


EN ISO 4920 AATCC 22

Initial Grade 4 or above 90 min.

After wash Grade 3 or above 70 min.



Quick Dry



Quick Dry

For products with quick dry properties

What is quick dry?

• Quick dry consists of three moisture management functions:

• Absorbency

• Wicking

• Drying rate



How does quick dry work?

Drying Rate:

Evaporation of

moisture into air

Wicking: moisture is

wicked and siphoned

away from the body

Absorbency: Drawing

moisture to outside to

keep the skin dry

Quick Dry



How are quick dry properties achieved?

By Fiber

• Surface modification

• Specialized shape in cross-

section

• Microfiber

By Yarn

• Multi-component

• Textured

• Combination

Quick Dry



How are quick dry properties achieved?

By Fabric

• Double layered

• Density & weight lower

By Finish

• Hydrophilic

Quick Dry



How do we test quick dry?

Absorbency Wicking Drying Rate

Absorbency Test

AATCC 79

JIS L1907

Wicking Test

AATCC 197

JIS L1907

Drying Time Test

AATCC 199

AATCC 201

JIS L 1096

Quick Dry Testing

Moisture Management Test

AATCC 195



Requirements for Quick Dry

Test Method Common Requirement

Absorbency Test Knit ≤2 seconds; Woven ≤ 5 seconds

Wicking Test

Vertical wicking

Casual wear: ≥ 12.0cm after 30 minutes;

Sportswear: ≥ 15.0 cm after 30 minutes

Flat wicking

Knit: ≥ 900 mm2; Woven: ≥ 1300 mm2

Evaporation Test /

Drying Time /

Drying Rate

AATCC 201, 0.2ml

< 15 minutes

AATCC 199 (0.5ml water applied to)

Initial: ≥ 70% water evaporated after 30 minutes;

After washing: ≥ 60% water evaporated after 30 minutes

Moisture Management Test One-way Transport Capability (R) ≥ 200 or

Overall Moisture Management Capability (OMMC) ≥ 0.6



Ultraviolet Protection



UV Protection Testing

For products with UV protection properties

What is UV protection?

• We use UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) to measure the

UV protection capability of fabric/garments

• UPF measures the protection of both UVA and UVB

• Additional info: SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is used for

cosmetics applied on skin directly




Why do we need UV protection?

UVC (200-290 nm) • Deadly to humans • Blocked by ozone layer

UVB (290-315 nm) • Causes sunburn,

premature skin aging and potential for skin cancer

• Less 5% reaches earth

UVA (315-400 nm) • Causes premature skin

aging, wrinkling and potential for skin cancer

• Deeper penetration than UVB

• More than 95% reaches earth




How do we achieve good UV protection with fabric?

• Fabric construction

• High density

• Dyeing process

• Darker in colorways

• Finishing

• Anti-UV Finishing

• with TiO2 in fibers

• Anti-UV coating




How is the UV protection test conducted?

• Standards include

• AS/NZS 4399

• AATCC 183

• ASTM D6603

• BS EN 13758-2

• GB/T 18830

• And more …



Stretch & Recovery



Stretch & Recovery

For products with stretch & recovery properties

What is stretch & recovery?

• Stretch (elongation): fabric can be extended in one direction with

force applied to without (before) breaking

• Two-way stretch: extended in the crosswise direction

• Four-way stretch: extended in both directions, crosswise and

lengthwise

• Recovery: fabric can go back to its original size after stretching

• Growth: fabric cannot go back to its original size after stretching



Stretch & Recovery

How do we achieve fabric with superior stretch & recovery?

• Special fibers weaving or knitting into the fabric construction

• Textured yarn

• Elastic fibers, such as

• Rubber

• Spandex

• Lycra or T400

• Sensitive to washing/drying temperature

• Use caution with bleach: elastic fiber may be damaged by Chlorine



Stretch & Recovery

What do we test to determine stretch capability?

Stretch/Elongation

• The difference in length between

the original and under tension

• Stretch(%)=(Ls-Lo)/Lo x100% Ls

Lo

After

Cycling



Stretch & Recovery

How about recovery & growth testing?

• Growth

• The difference in length between the original

and after cycling tension removal

• Growth(%)=(Lg-Lo)/Lo x 100%

• Recovery

• The ratio between “stretch length” and

“growth”

• Recovery(%)=(Le-Lg)/(Le-Lo) x 100%

Le : the “stretch length” at specified stretch percentage

Le

Lo Lg

Specified

stretch &

period

growth

recovery

growth



Stretch & Recovery

How is the stretch & recovery test conducted?

• Standards and commercial requirements

• ASTM D 3107 (4 lbs loading)

• Growth: 7% max (elastomeric < 5%)

• Growth: 5% max (elastomeric > 5%)

• ASTM D 2594 (10 lbs loading)

• Recovery: 85% Minimum/30 Minutes

Performance

> 5% elastomeric

fiber

Comfort

< 5% elastomeric

fiber

Mechanical

Contain no

elastomeric yarn

Initial Stretch,

immediate

20% min –

50% max

15% min –

30% max

10% min –

15% max

Residual Growth,

30 min. (max) 5% max 7% max 7% max



Thermal Regulation



Thermal Regulation Testing

For products with thermal claim properties

What is thermal regulation?

• Warm-weather fabrics

• Instant cool feeling fabric

• Moisture absorption cooling fabrics

• Cold-weather fabrics

• Moisture absorption exothermic fabrics

• Thermal retention




How is cooling property achieved?

• Fabric with cooling property allows you to feel cool when touching

• Such cooling fabric can be made by:

• Extruding the filament with high heat capacity material

• Applying hydrophilic fibers with high moisture liberation

• Modified cross-section fibers with high sweat transportation

• Excellent fabric structure to facilitate heat transportation

• Applying fibers with sugar alcohol that can

create endothermic reaction when

absorbing sweat (H2O).




How is cooling property tested?

Test Method (Qmax test – KES-F7 )

• FTTS-FA-019 (Qmax test)

• CNS 15687, L3237

Test Procedure

• Set the Top-plate to 35oC and the

Water-Box to 25oC

• Put sample on the Base-plate until

the temperature of sample reaches

25oC

• Let the Top-plate contact the sample

• Measure the value of Qmax




What are the industrial standards for cooling?

Qmax

• Indicate the maximum heat loss for textile

• Unit: W/cm2

• Higher Qmax means more significant feeling of coolness

• Industrial recommendation (By FTTS-FA-019 )

– For Knit: ≥ 0.130 (W/cm2)

– For Woven: ≥ 0.170 (W/cm2)




How is cooling property tested?

Temperature difference (In-house test method)

• Apply 0.2ml water onto the fabric surface

• Both finished and unfinished fabrics tested at same time

• Record the surface temperature of fabric at 35°C for 30 minutes

Temp (℃)

Time




How do we achieve warming?

• Moisture absorbing exothermic fabrics can be used

• These are passive warmth-retention materials

• When a human sweats, the fibers will absorb the moisture and release

heat to elevate the temperature

• Such property can be achieved by:

• Applying high moisture regain e.g. Acrylate,

Rayon, etc.

• Using specific fiber with high moisture

absorbing exothermicity

• Working on fabric structure design




How do we test moisture absorbing exothermic fabrics?

• The GB/T 29866 standard is applied

• Intertek In-house test method

• Tested at 20°C, raise the humidity from 40% to 90%, for 30

minutes


• +2°C




How do we achieve thermal retention?

• When it is cold, we wear more layers to keep warm, using light-weight

garments on our bodies

• Garments that are light but warm can be made by:

• Materials with high thermal resistance

• Hollow fibers

• Fabric structure with high air-retention rate




How are thermal retention fabrics tested?


• ASTM D1518

• ASTM F1868

• ISO 11092

• CNS 15102

• GB/T 11048



Thank You!

Questions?

Rajath Kumar

Director

650-463-2956

[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

activewear performance testingintertek-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/ · 1 © intertek 2016. all rights...

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