H Pennsylvania Travel 800-778-7014Boscov's Travel 800-755-8020

Ventresca 215-674-3662H Colony Travel 856-845-4444

YOURALL-INCLUSIVEAPPLEVACATION INCLUDES ROUNDTRIPAIRFARE FROMPHILADELPHIA, RESORTACCOMMODATIONS, ALLMEALS, ALL DRINKS, ALL TIPS, TRANSFERSANDMORE!

HOpen Sundays. *Prices per person based on double occupancy (unless otherwise stated) including round-trip airfare fromPhiladelphia via Exclusive Vacation Flightsor other U.S. certified air carriers, round-trip airport/hotel transfers, hotel taxes and baggage handling, fuel surcharges, all pre-collected U.S. and foreign taxes andfees including September 11th Security Fee, $10 late booking fee if applicable (for bookings within 14 days of departure) and the services of an Apple Representative.Cancun, Punta Cana and Jamaica via Frontier Airlines. In some instances, pricingmay specifically apply to one ofmultiple flights on select departure days. Restrictions/blackout dates may apply. All packages are based on the lowest hotel/air classes available at time of publication, capacity controlled and subject to availability andchange without notice. Promotional pricing may only be available for a limited time. Some all-inclusive/Unlimited-Luxury/Unlimited-Fun resorts do not includewatersports. Baggage fees apply for carry-on, 1st and 2nd checked bag based on carrier flown. Please see a full description of baggage fees on www.applevacations.com. $10 Dominican Republic Tourist Card fee payable at resort airport upon arrival-cash only, U.S. dollars. Apple Vacations is not responsible for errors or omissions.Cancellation policies apply. See the Apple Vacations Fair Trade Contract ©2015. CST2036061-40 nad_2419_011016_PHL_cl

Visit us at applevacations.com or Call Your Travel Agent!

Punta CanaCancun's RivieraMaya JamaicaGrand Bahia Principe Coba5Golden ALL-INCLUSIVE. Outstandingservice, Dolphinarium and kids' waterpark.Exchange privileges with Grand BahiaPrincipe Tulum (transportation included).TUE, Feb 16-Mar 15;WED, Feb 3, 10; THU, Feb 18 7Nts $1699*

Now Jade Riviera Cancun6Golden Unlimited-Luxury®.Non-stop transfers included-an AppleExclusive. $200 Resort Coupons, per room,per stay. Sip, Savor & See Dining Experiencewith select resorts!TUE/THU,Mar 8, 15, 17, 31 7Nts $1799*

Dreams PalmBeach Punta Cana6Golden Unlimited-Luxury®.Non-stop transfers included-an AppleExclusive. $200 Resort Coupons, per room,per stay. Sip, Savor & See Dining Experiencewith select resorts!MON/WED/FRI,Feb 5, 22, 24 5Nts $1399*

Riu Palace Punta Cana5Golden PLUS ALL-INCLUSIVE.Exchange privileges with the Riu Naiboa andRiu Bambu (dinner dining excluded).MON, Feb 8-15;WED, Feb 3-24;FRI, Feb 5, 19 7Nts $1449*

Sunscape SplashMontego Bay5 Unlimited-Fun®. Opening December 2015.Located on a secluded peninsula inMontegoBay overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Non-stoptransfers included-an Apple Exclusive. $200Resort Coupons, per room, per stay.TUE,Mar 1-15;THU,Mar 3-10 7Nts $1389*

RiuOcho Rios5 ALL-INCLUSIVE.Perfect place for those looking for adventure.Many activities that includewindsurfing,sailing, kayaking and snorkeling.TUE,Mar 1-15;THU,Mar 3-10 7Nts $1459*

GADGETGURU |N2

PERSONAL JOURNEY |N3

By Larissa and Michael MilneFOR THE INQUIRER

LJUBLJANA, Slovenia — We arrivedby train after dark, and despite thelate hour, we were eager to beginexploring the Slovenian capital ofLjubljana. It was only a five-minute

stroll, under the luminescent glow of a har-vest moon, to reach Prešernov Square —five minutes during which we felt we hadstepped into the pages of a fairy tale.

With a magical castle perched overheadand the city center encircled by cotton-can-dy-colored buildings designed in the gaudyVienna Succession style, as though dressedfor a ball, Ljubljana sets the tone for theentire country. It’s difficult to visit this pock-et-size nation without conjuring up visionsof ravishing princesses and handsome princ-es, witches, and trolls. There’s even a Drag-on Bridge guarded by four large, copperlikenesses of the winged beasts, the symbolof the city.

Once upon a time, Slovenia was the north-ernmost region, and economic engine, ofYugoslavia. When that man-made collectionof Balkan states disintegrated in the 1990s,Slovenia was among the first to declare inde-pendence. It seemed a risky step for a na-scent nation with a population of only two

See SLOVENIA on N4

Compactair mattresses

worth taking along.

Island- andpub-hopping in Galway,

Cork, and Dublin.

By Tod CavinessORLANDO SENTINEL

F rom the highway or the windowseat of an airplane, it can be easy todismiss Gainesville, Fla., as a small

but sprawling town with a very big col-lege. On your way through the AlachuaCounty seat, you’re likely to see moregreen than gray and not much skyline tospeak of in the downtown area near themassive University of Florida.

So much the better. If you think a com-munity is best enjoyed from a comfort-able balcony, look elsewhere. With itsbreathtaking parks and a vibrant metro-politan scene, this north Florida jewelbegs to be explored at ground level.

Just over 100 miles and less than twohours north of Orlando, the wider Ala-chua County area enjoys a prolonged,balmy springtime that fosters a wide ar-

See GAINESVILLE on N5

Parks, trails, flair of hip Gainesville

The Florida Museum of Natural History, Gainesville. JOE BURBANK / Orlando Sentinel

SOPHISTICATED FAIRY TALEStanding guard over tiny Slovenia are ancient castles and even dragons, protecting

the capital’s magical medieval heart and the former Yugoslav state’s natural wonders.

One of the four creatures guarding the Dragon Bridge in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, among the first Balkan states to declare independence from Yugoslavia. MICHAEL MILNE

Candy-colored buildings in Prešernov Square in Ljubljana set the fairy-tale tone of the rest of the country. The city’sstyle, a steampunk-type mix of art nouveau and Greek Revival, is by early-20th-century architect Jože Plecnik.

NThe Inquirer | SUNDAY, JAN. 10, 2016 | PHILLY.COM | A

By Andrea SachsWASHINGTON POST

BOONE, N.C. — At the Art ofLiving Retreat Center, thetea leaves were very tell-

ing.In the Relaxation Room, on

the ground level of the spa build-ing, a refreshment table heldseveral jars of loose tea with de-scriptions of their powers:

Vata Tea, for guests who werefeeling restless or anxious;Kapha Tea, for the lethargic anddepressed; and Pitta Tea, for irri-tated and agitated souls.

All the containers were full ex-cept Balance Tea, which “makesyou feel really good.” I scrapedthe bottom for cinnamon pieces,cardamom, licorice root, androse leaves and brewed myself acup of contentment.

The 380-acre sanctuary sits atthe top of the Blue Ridge Moun-tain range in Boone, N.C. Thewinding drive to the 3,700-foot-high aerie can make you feel abit Vata-Pitta, especially if youignore the staff’s directions. “Itcan be challenging to find ourspa,” read the polite warning onmy reservation, “and we hate forour guests to experience unnec-essary stress.”

Some of us didn’t listen.“I need a drink,” a harried visi-

tor grumbled at check-in. Theemployee gently reminded himthat alcohol was not permittedon the premises and offered himsome tea.

Two hundred cc’s of BalanceTea, STAT!

The complex of buildings —lodging, meditation halls, restau-rant — originally opened as aTranscendental Meditation com-munity in 1999 but was aban-doned several years later, the ca-sualty of a family dispute. Dur-ing the dark years, skateboard-ers and vandals used the build-ings for their tricks, and frozenpipes created a polar ice mess.In 2011, the high-altitude get-away reemerged from the gloomas the Art of Living Retreat, acenter based on a movement ofthe same name founded in 1981by Sri Sri Ravi Shankar. The Indi-an spiritual leader, who has es-tablished programs in morethan 150 countries, promotes astress- and violence-free society.The Boone facility is a dwarf

planet governed by his princi-ples and practices.

The Life According to Sri Srieschews meat (eat vegetarian)and booze (drink organicayurvedic tea), and embracesyoga, meditation, and nature —even when indoors. The retreat’ssetting among cloud-ticklingtrees and a swoop of slopes andvalleys guarantees a stellarview, no matter what your roomnumber.

The property offers a varietyof accommodations, from basicrooms to apartments, in woodenstructures that resemble Appala-chian chalets with a touch of theHimalayas. The lodgings arenamed after the world’s rivers:Nile, Amazon, Mississippi, Brah-maputra (hint: follow the Gang-es). I stayed in the three-storybuilding that also houses theShankara Ayurveda Spa. Ibooked two nights in a sparoom, which resembled a con-ventional hotel room, and onenight in a retreat room, a monk-ish chamber. In the move, I relin-quished the flat-screen TV andfridge, two full-size beds, andthicker bedding. In return, Igained significant savings (morethan $80) and a quieter mind.

People visit the retreat formyriad reasons, such as to detox-ify, reconnect with the outdoors,or simply decompress. I neededall of the above, but also hopedto address my dependence onoverplanning. At check-in, I cau-tiously reviewed the list of activi-ties with Heather, the always-sunny guest-services representa-tive. I signed up for a morningtour of the property and yoga. Ipenciled in evening meditationand kirtan. Heather mentionedthe pottery classes and spa treat-ments. I was powerless: Put me

down for both. The Art of Livingwas now the Art of Scheduling.

For my overview tour, I waitedfor Heather in the upstairs din-ing room with floor-to-ceiling win-dows that invite the landscape tothe table. A group of womenfrom a yoga center in North Caro-lina motioned for me to jointhem. They were fawning overtheir vegetarian breakfasts andgossiping about heavy breathersin their class. When Heather wasready, I rose from my chair with-out exhaling too loudly.

We started at the receptionbuilding — which contains thegift shop, restaurant, and activi-ties room — and darted throughraindrops to the palatial Medita-tion Hall. Heather explainedhow its architecture followed theelements of vastu shastra, the In-dian version of feng shui. Theentrance faces east and sunrise,for instance, and the geometricpatterns represent positive ener-gy. Natural light pours through arising pyramid of skylights.

We descended a ribbony stair-case to a labyrinth and fire cir-cle, where guests and staff gath-er around the bonfire to sing orchant beneath the black tapestryof sky. As rain pelted us, we fast-walked to a smaller meditationhall fluffed with cushions, and

then ducked into the pottery stu-dio. There I met Laurie, the pep-py instructor, and her clay cre-ations: chunky mugs and jack-o’-lanterns (hers), crooked vasesand a bowl with a face only amother could love (students’).She said she would glaze andship the pieces, but, based onthe collection of misfit artworks,many students didn’t leave a for-warding address.

For my pottery lesson the fol-lowing day, I was running lateand unraveling. I had lost myway back from town and had re-sorted to flagging down a postalcarrier for help. I was also wet,cold, and illegally parked in thefire lane. I rolled into the studiolike a skein of frayed nerves andfound Laurie seated serenely atthe pottery wheel, cradling amug-in-process between herhands.

She deposited a lump of clayand small dishes of water on thelong wooden table. We startedmolding the material into pump-kin-shape bowls. She showed mehow to cut out a stem and leavesfor the top. While we worked,she told me art is a form of medi-tation. I felt my body relax witheach squish.

We were so absorbed in ourtask I had only a few minutes to

make meditation class. Theteacher told us to close our eyes,clear our thoughts, and focus onbreathing. In the darkness of mymind, I saw a glowing cat-o’-lan-tern.

The spa specializes inayurvedic techniques, whichhelp stabilize the seesaw of bodyand mind. I had signed up forthe combo special of abhyanga(detoxifying herbal massage)and shirohara (relaxation thera-py). My therapist, Medha,poured hot oil on my arms, legs,back, belly, head, and cheeksand kneaded each body part un-til it turned to goo.

During the 90-minute treat-ment, we discussed family life(she has a son and lives at theretreat), travel (she’s from In-dia), and olive oils (for massag-es, she recommends cold-pressed, raw organic sesame oilfrom Whole Foods). She usedabout half a bottle on me, and Islid off the table like a greasyfry.

For the best results, Medhatold me to sit in the sauna andavoid showering for a day. A fewhours later, I left the Art of Liv-ing Retreat with a tranquilmind, a languid body, andenough oil to make stir fry forthe week.

yAlthough there are nodirect flights from theUnited States to Slovenia,the main airport atLjubljana has links to mostEuropean gateways. Thereis also excellent rail servicefrom Munich and Viennathrough stunningcountryside.

yThe Slovenian TouristBoard website hasoverviews of many sights,including Lake Bled,Ljubljana, and Piran:www.slovenia.info.

yFor information onguided tours of theŠkocjan Caves: www.park-skocjanske-jame.si//en.

yFor tours ofFonda Fish Farm:www.fonda.si/en/fonda/the-fonda-fish-farm.

The Art of LivingRetreat Center

y639 Whispering HillsRoad, Boone, N.C.

yRetreat rooms from $79;hotel rooms from $95.

yInformation:800-392-6870 or www.artoflivingretreatcenter.org.

million, but the Slovenes, whoonce were members of the Aus-tro-Hungarian Empire, naturallylooked toward Western Europe.Slovenia joined the EuropeanUnion, becoming the onlyformer Yugoslav republic to usethe euro as its currency.

The country packs a little ofeverything into its compact bor-ders, which encompass an areaslightly smaller than New Jer-sey: sweeping snowcapped alps,quaint medieval villages, a so-phisticated capital, UNESCO-sanctioned natural wonders. Iteven manages to squeeze in aminuscule (30-mile) coastline onthe Adriatic Sea, topped by atown that was an outpost of theonce-mighty Venetian Republic.

As the clock struck midnightin Ljubljana’s pristine PrešernovSquare, we wouldn’t have beensurprised to see Cinderella rac-ing across the Tromostovje (Tri-ple Bridge), leaving a glass slip-per in her wake. The three-pronged pedestrian crossingstraddles the diminutive Ljubl-janica River as it meandersthrough the city’s medievalheart, which was transformedinto a pedestrian zone in 2008.

Much of Ljubljana’s other-worldly aura is thanks to JožePlecnik, the de facto architectlaureate of Slovenia, who de-signed the bridge and river es-planades, along with many ofthe city’s decorative elements, inthe early 20th century. Plecnik’sstyle is a sort of steampunkmerger between art nouveauand Greek Revival; it boasts aunique flair that is spotted onrailings and streetlampsthroughout the country.

Those longing to rescue Ra-punzel can climb the 200-plusfeet to Ljubljana Castle, whichhas been standing guard overthe city for more than 500 years.(Better yet, take the ultramod-ern funicular, which will whiskyou up in about 30 seconds.) Thehilltop complex includes a selec-tion of small museums and a me-dieval chapel, along with a com-manding view of the city below,with the Alps in the distance.

Sleeping Beauty could easilyhave been eternally dozing only35 miles north in the foothills ofthe Julian Alps, on Lake Bled.The crystalline waters arepierced by tiny Bled Island, bare-ly large enough to embrace the

15th-century Church of the As-sumption. To reach and rescueher from her repose, Prince Phil-lip would have used the servicesof boatmen with a pletna, a tradi-tional wooden craft resemblinga large gondola that is still usedtoday.

The gnarled hands of our boat-man were testimony to the de-manding work required to rowthe pletna 300 yards to the is-land. Despite the toil, the profes-sion carries honor, and rowers

granted licenses for this job de-cades ago pass the career downin families. Boatman Janezrowed us out; his son, Klemen,squired us back to shore.

After alighting from the boat,visitors to the island climb the 99steps to the church, where theyring the bell for good luck. Unlessyou have an urge to unleash yourinner Quasimodo, we suggest sav-ing the six euros required for theprivilege and, instead, linger out-side and listen to tales of others’efforts while you savor poteca —a Slovenian coffee cake — at theisland’s cafe.

The lake is guarded by BledCastle, perched high atop astone crag. It’s the oldest castlein Slovenia; the first referencesto it date to 1004. Today, it hous-es a cluster of craft exhibits anda small museum, and it offers abreathtaking view of the lake.

Just as magical is the famousBled cream cake, rich custardand whipped cream sandwichedbetween layers of thin butterycrust and powdered sugar. It’savailable at restaurants over-looking the lake, but arguablythe best view is from Belvedere,

the Plecnik-ornamented, hillsideteahouse that was once part ofMarshal Tito’s summer resi-dence. Yugoslavia’s late “presi-dent for life” enjoyed taking vis-iting dignitaries to this picture-postcard spot, which is now aluxury hotel that houses dis-plays commemorating his glorydays.

Every fairy tale should featurean ogre or troll, and a perfectplace to find one is ŠkocjanCaves, the world’s largest under-ground canyon. The toweringstalagmites and drippy stalac-tites along a three-kilometer sub-terranean trail could easily havebeen the setting for The Lord ofthe Rings (our guide assured usit was not). Nevertheless, tra-versing a narrow footbridge in ahuge cavern 150 feet above arushing underground rivermakes it easy to imagine Gollumlurking at every turn.

Sixty miles southwest of Ljub-ljana lies a land that is a mixtureof Shakespeare and Arthurianlegend. The 1,000-year-old townof Piran occupies pride of placeon a walled promontory alongSlovenia’s brief slice of the Adri-

atic coast. Known colloquially as“Little Venice,” Piran reportedto its big brother just 60 mileswest across the sea. Perhapsthat merchant of Venice, Anto-nio, strode the narrow alleywaysto stock his ships en route towooing his fair maiden back atthe home port.

At an inauspicious fishing piersouth of Piran, we met a modern-day version of the Lady of theLake, Irena Fonda. The microbi-ologist with a doctorate, alongwith her scuba-diving brother,Lean, are concerned that the wa-ters of the Gulf of Piran andnearby Adriatic are being deplet-ed of seafood. They establishedFonda Fish Farm to grow seabass using largely sustainablepractices.

The Fondas’ efforts have paidoff. The farm created an ecosys-tem that has attracted new sealife to the area, and Fonda seabass is recognized throughoutEurope as a premier brand. Visi-tors can tour the farm, boatingout to the seabeds to help Irenafeed her “babies.” Sample thefish, along with other locavoreproducts, back on land.

To visit with Irena was to gen-tly emerge from our fairy tale.We had glimpsed a land thatseemed frozen in a magicaltime. Yet, while Slovenia cradlesits past, it is progressive. With amyriad of historic sights, natu-ral wonders, and 21st-centurybusiness savvy, Slovenia ispoised to live happily ever after.

Continued from N1

If You Go

On tiny Bled Island in Lake Bled, 35 miles north of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, stands the 15th-centuryChurch of the Assumption. The landmark is accessible only by a gondolalike boat. LARISSA MILNE

Retreat for stabilizing mind and body

The Art of Living Retreat Center, a 380-acre sanctuary with yoga, meditation, nature, and spa, sits atop theBlue Ridge Mountains in Boone, N.C., and specializes in ayurvedic techniques. ANDREA SACHS / Washington Post

Bled cream cake, rich custard andwhipped cream between layers ofthin buttery crust. MICHAEL MILNE

Slovenia

N4 | THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER | SUNDAY, JAN. 10, 2016 | PHILLY.COM