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Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

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Page 1: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Rock Climbing through the Ages

Michael FirminUDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Page 2: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014
Page 3: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

19th Century: The Alpine Shepherd

Page 4: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1854-1865: The Golden Age of Alpinism

Wetterhorn: Swiss AlpsFirst Ascent: Alfred Willis (1854)

Matterhorn: Pennine AlpsFirst Ascent: Edward Whymper (1865)

Page 5: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

First Ascents of the Golden Age

● 1854 Königspitze, Monte Rosa (Ostspitze), Strahlhorn● 1855 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Monte Rosa (Westspitze), Weissmies● 1856 Aiguille du Midi, Allalinhorn, Lagginhorn● 1857 Mönch, Monte Pelmo● 1858 Dom, Eiger, Nadelhorn, Piz Morteratsch, Wildstrubel● 1859 Aletschhorn, Bietschhorn, Grand Combin, Grivola, Rimpfischhorn, Monte Leone● 1860 Alphubel, Blüemlisalphorn, Civetta, Gran Paradiso, Grande Casse● 1861 Castor, Fluchthorn, Lyskamm, Mont Pourri, Monte Viso, Schreckhorn, Weisshorn, Weißkugel● 1862 Dent Blanche, Dent Parrachée, Doldenhorn, Gross Fiescherhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Täschhorn,

Zuckerhütl● 1863 Bifertenstock, Dent d'Hérens, Parrotspitze, Piz Zupò, Tofane● 1864 Adamello, Aiguille d'Argentière, Aiguille de Tré la Tête, Antelao, Balmhorn, Barre des Écrins,

Dammastock, Gross Wannenhorn, Marmolata, Mont Dolent, Pollux, Presanella, Zinalrothorn● 1865 Aiguille Verte, Grand Cornier, La Ruinette, Matterhorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Piz Buin, Piz Roseg

Page 6: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1869: George Anderson’s Ascent of Half Dome

Half Dome, Yosemite National Park

Page 7: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1886: W.P. Haskett Smith ascends the Napes Needle

Napes Needle, Great GableEnglish Lake District

● Introduces the English to rock climbing as a sport

Page 8: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1892: Oscar Eckenstein

● Balance in Rock Climbing

● Bouldering Competitions

Page 9: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Early 1900’s

Otto Herzog’s Steel Carabiner (1910)

New designs for pitons introduced by Hans Fiechtl (1910)

Hans Dulfer’sdulfersitz rappel (1910)

Page 10: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1900’s

John Earnshaw Spuds (1963)

1927: Machine Nuts first used for protection on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, Snowdon, Britain

Page 11: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1955: John Gill - Chalk and Modern Dynamics

Page 12: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1958: Warren Harding Ascends the Nose

El Capitan, Yosemite Valley

Page 13: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1978: Ray Jardine’s Spring-Loaded Camming Device

Page 14: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1980: Boreal Introduces The Fire

Page 15: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

1983: Alan Watts Introduces Sport Climbing to US

Smith Rock, Oregon

Page 16: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Modern Climbing Gear

Page 17: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Climbing Squamish

Page 18: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Alex Honnold: Free Solo of El Sendero Luminoso

Page 20: Ages Rock Climbing through the - UBC Computer …udls/slides/Rock-Climbing.pdf · Rock Climbing through the Ages Michael Firmin UDLS: Feb 28, 2014

Chris Sharma & Adam Ondra:La Dura Dura (5.15c)