AIR Mandalay 41

the ancient artefacts that were sealed inside the origi-nal pagoda. There are also a number of alcoves along the corridor where monks and lay-people can often be found meditating.

Above this fascinating interior, the golden pagoda spire rises to 40 metres (132 feet). At the entrance is a small hall hung with paintings showing the his-tory of the pagoda. The pago-da compound is surrounded by another unusual feature: a seven-foot-high wall topped by a pair of green dragons with long bodies, their heads nearly coming together and

the compound.

Like the mirrored maze, most pilgrims prefer to tour the pa-goda compound in a clock-wise direction, so that their last stop is Botahtaung Pagoda

this direction is Naung Dawgyi (big brother) Pagoda and a small bell for pilgrims to ring and share their merit with any-one who hears it. Adjacent is a one-storey building put up by the pagoda board of trustees as a memorial for good deeds aimed at gaining merit for the next life.

Next along the circuit is a tree with eight Buddha statues

around the base, situated be-fore the compound’s leikkan (a pond with tortoises and

the water to a small building with four rooms, each con-taining a shrine to a differ-ent spirit or celestial being: Botahtaung Bo Bo Gyi, a spirit who is believed to guard the pagoda precincts; the king of celestial beings; a Hindu god-dess named Thurathetee; and Chinese goddess Quan Yin. Across the pond is Mahabodhi Temple. Inside is a room with a dozen or so silver cups set in a circle. Each cup is reserved for a particular wish, such as passing exams or winning the lottery. Pilgrims come here to make solemn wishes for good luck and then try to throw money into the cups. If they can get their money into the cup that matches their wish, it is believed that the wish will be granted.

Beyond this is a one-storey building with shrines to fa-

Shin U Pagutta, a monk who is be-lieved to live in the sea and is thought to save people from water-based hazards. Most of his worshippers are sailors. Attached to this hall is a room containing statues of monks and laymen believed to have gained mystical powers. On the left side is an image of

Shin Thi Wali, a monk who is thought to bring good luck to those who pay homage. At the back of the Botahtaung Pagoda compound is a sepa-

-ing Buddha images, as well as a line of statues of monks, nuns and laypeople who were honoured by the Buddha for having special attributes, such as great knowledge or excep-tionally high moral standards. At the end of the line is the scene of a woman offering milk rice to Buddha.

The last building before reach-ing Botahtaung Pagoda is home to the Royal Palace Bronze Buddha Image. The statue was originally cast by King Mindon in 1859 from a mixture of gold, silver, bronze, iron and lead, and was placed inside the Royal Glass Palace in Mandalay so the royal family could pay hom-age. However, when the British annexed upper Myanmar in 1885, they shipped the statue to their homeland and dis-played it at the Victoria and the Albert Museum in London for nearly 66 years. At the re-quest of the government of Myanmar, which gained inde-pendence from Britain in 1948,

returned to Yangon in 1951.

the pagoda is always crowded with visitors coming to pay homage to the Buddha as well as those attracted by the pleasant atmosphere of the waterfront.

42 AIR Mandalay

Other notable features of the compound include a small building where tooth relics of the Buddha are kept – it is usually locked so people must worship from outside – and the Ahthi Tadi (knowledge and mindfulness) shrine containing a new bronze Buddha donat-ed by Myanmar actor Kyaw Hein in 2007.

After a visit to the pagoda, many pilgrims wander down to the end of the Botahtaung Jetty to enjoy the fresh breeze from the Yangon River. For a beautiful birds-eye view of the compound, many visitors walk across Strand Road to FJV Commercial Centre. The Level 10 Restaurant in the centre serves Singapore cuisine.

AIR Mandalay 43

Restaurants

SA PI BI LA?

COFFEE CIRCLES The thick, heavily illustrated menu at Coffee Circles (107A Dhammazedi Road, in the com-pound of Guest Care Hotel) looks sturdy enough to survive a nuclear war, and indeed the Western and Asian food offered therein seems chosen to provide plenty of solace in times of distress. Starting with a variety of salads (K2450-K3950) and soups (K1800-K2650), the menu quickly moves on to a range of comfort foods

(K3550). There are club sandwiches with fries (K3550), tandoori chicken in pita bread (K2450), pizzas medium and large (medium, K4750-7850) and imaginative pastas (K3450-K4350). Western specialties include beef tenderloin steak with mashed potatoes and veggies (K5500), and

spiced Cajun chicken with sautéed veggies (K4350), while offerings on the Asian side of the menu include sesame chicken with rice (K3650) and red curry prawn with rice (K3950). With a name like Coffee Circles, it’s not surprising that this restaurant’s separate drinks menu includes a full range of caffeine-based refreshment, from café latte (K2000), café Vienna (K2400) and cappuccino (K2000), to iced espresso (K1600) and frappes (K2600-K2900). Top it all off with a fruit smoothie (K2200-K2900) or a banana split (K3500). Throughout all this indulgence, the din-ing room’s glass walls ensure that you won’t miss a moment of action on busy Dhammazedi Road out front, if you’re not to busy scoping the rich and famous locals at the table next to yours.

With India and Bangladesh to the west and northwest, China to the north and north-east, and Laos and Thailand to the east, Myanmar is a crossroads of Asian cultures. This mixture is most apparent in Yangon, which hosts a diverse population of about 4 million people and serves as the gateway to Myanmar through which nearly all visi-tors pass.Because all people must eat, cuisine is one of the most visible (and tasty) expressions of local tradition and culture. The Yangon dining experience is becoming increasingly diverse, as a growing number of restaurants are added to the already long list of lo-cal, Asian and international eateries around town. Below is a small sampling of restau-rants that have opened in the city recently, offering everything from Korean takeout to European specialties.

(Have you eaten?)

44 AIR Mandalay

Coffee Circles

be ordered with chicken, pork or ground beef, plus rice, salsa, peppers and onions if desired. Cheese and sour cream cost extra (K400). Another lip-smack-ing choice are the que-sadillas with meat, or with cheese only (K2900). The chips (K3000) are served freshly fried and toasty-hot. Dine-in specials are also available, such as the green chilli chicken enchi-lada plate (K5500 for one enchilada, K8000 for two). Dessert choices include brownies (K500) and tortillas with honey (K400). Open Monday through Saturday 11am-9pm. Viva la Shan ta-cos!

HAPPY CAFÉ AND NOODLEEverything at Happy Café and Noodle on Inya Road seems designed to evoke the concept of happiness, including the big yellow smiley faces on the signboard, the T-shirts of the wait staff, the placemats, and even the stickers holding the chopsticks together. The interior is small and cosy, complete with plants, tasteful lighting and big windows providing views to the outdoor veranda and a small lawn. The veranda is furnished with low-slung chairs that are quite comfortable for sipping drinks from the long list of cocktails (average price K3000) or non-alcoholic cappuccinos, lattes, espressos and iced coffees. But for dining it’s best to sit inside, where the chairs are upright and therefore more conducive to slurping noodles. The menu features a number of noodle and rice dishes from Myanmar and beyond, including Bamaw myishei with chicken, soy beans and garlic

colourful noodle (K2000), consisting of linguini, chicken, tomato sauce, ba-sil and soybean powder.

SAI’S TACOSShan Mexican food comes to Myanmar! Sai’s Tacos (32A Inya Myaing Road) corrects a longstanding absence of South of the Border cuisine in Yangon. Located on a narrow byway in Golden Valley and with modest signage,

low-key atmosphere (it’s like having dinner in someone’s living room), not to mention the food itself. The menu is quite limited: Soft tacos (K2500) can

AIR Mandalay 45

Happy cafe’ and noodle

Sai’s Tacos

CIAOWith the exception of the big hotels, Ciao (No 262, Pansodan Road, Upper Block, Kyauktada township) is one of a handful of Western-style restaurants in the downtown area. And while their pizzas and pasta might not be the same as what your mum used to make, they certain-ly aren’t half bad. Ciao’s pizzas are generally a safer bet than their pastas. The toppings are used sparingly, and the pizzas more resemble the Italian style than examples found in the US or Australia, which are so laden with toppings they often look like birthday cakes. Prices are also reasonable: K5000 to K7000 for pizzas and about K4000 for pastas.

THE GARDEN BISTROAnother venue that offers a veranda for out-door indulgence is Garden Bistro, which is at-tached to Signature Restaurant (corner of Kaba Aye Pagoda and Kan Yeik Thar roads on the

edge of Kandawgyi Park). The menu offers a mix of Asian and Western cuisine, with appetisers ranging in price from $3 to $7 for choices such as satay, fried chicken wings and prawn tempura. Soups like wonton and cream of pumpkin and coriander run from $3 to $4. There are also Western favourites like pizza, beef burgers, triple-decker club sandwiches, carbonara

to $12). Asian choices include fried hokkein rice, mee goreng and beef rendang ($2 to $7), with Japanese cuisine meriting its own separate section of the menu: Chicken and salmon teriyaki, udon noodles and tem-pura soba range from $5 to $12. Room for dessert? Try chocolate mousse, tiramisu or an ice cream sundae ($1 to $3), and wash it down with coffee, cappucci-no, espresso or English breakfast tea. Wine, beer and cocktails are also sold. If you demand that your food be served in a dining room lined with white columns and accompanied by Muzak versions of 1970s pop hits, head inside to Signature, which features a some-what more expensive, European-only menu.

46 AIR Mandalay

CIAO

The Garden Bistro

365 CAFÉ

Thamada Hotel is “eclectic”. Austere Japanese-style seating shares space in the dining room with small tables surrounded by plush chairs covered with gaudy metal-lic fabric. Even the big picture windows that provide a view of real life on the streets of Yangon are offset on the opposite wall by bright murals of scenes out of the artist’s psychedelic fantasies. The menu follows suit with this eclecticism. Actually, there are two menus – one for food, one for liquid refreshment – both quite thick as each listing is accompanied by a photograph to il-lustrate the item in question. Western, Japanese, Thai, Korean and other types of cuisine are offered. Western choices include spaghetti with beef or pork (K3600),

-rite, the double meat and cheese beef or pork burger (K4200). The drinks menu includes everything from plain old coffee, to caramel cappuccino (K2650), Irish cof-fee (K3800) and gelato espresso (K2950). Fruit smoothies come with a dollop of cream on top in case the natu-ral sweetness is not enough. What’s even sweeter is the fact that 365 Café is open 24 hours a day, salvation for anyone who needs to answer to a craving for sushi and Asahi beer at 3am.

HER’S

Hotel) is new to the Yangon food scene, though it would be a bit misleading to call this Korean place a restau-

rant. With half a dozen metal tables and only 13 items on the menu (including, bizarrely, spaghetti), it certainly

a bomb: The spicy kimchi comes in at K1800, while the slightly too-dry kimbap is only K2500. The pick of the bunch is the pork cutlet with honey-style gravy – a bar-gain at only K3000. Other Korean dishes on the menu in-clude kimchi fried rice and bi bim bap.

AIR Mandalay 47

365 Cafe’

HER’S

THE SEOULThere’s a new option in town for upscale Korean cuisine, and it’s called The Seoul at Traders Hotel (223 Sule Pagoda Road). Meals range from US$10 for a choice of three differ-ent lunch meals – served daily until 3pm – up to US$38 for a large plate of braised chicken and vegetables. Drink prices start at $5 for a bottle of Myanmar Beer and extend up to $400 for a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. The venue is constrained, while the staff are polite, well spoken and waiting to take your order.

ENN JAPANESE SUSHI BAROne of the newest additions to Yangon’s dining scene, Enn Japanese Sushi Bar (10, Shwe Taung Kyar 2nd Ward, Bahan township) has certainly taken things up a notch both in style and taste since opening in September 2008. The interior is lit to accentuate the red and white décor,

Drinking options range in price from a $2.50 bot-tle of Myanmar Beer to a $400 bottle of sochyu – something to suit all budgets. With all ingredi-ents imported from Japan, this is about as au-thentic as it gets but the prices are still reason-able and the menu is diverse enough to keep most people happy. There are sushi ($2 to $20), sashimi ($7 to $30) and a la carte menus, as well as the rotating lunch special, but our pick is the seven-course set. For $30, you get an ap-petiser, sashimi, salad, tempura, nigiri, miso and

The Seoul

Enn Japanese Sushi Bar

48 AIR Mandalay

Cafe’ Jasper

Restaurant InformationCoffee Circles107A Dhammazedi Road, Kamaryut. Tel: 01-525157Happy Café and NoodleInya Road. Tel: 01-525112, 705620, 09-9928083Sai’s Tacos32A Inya Myaing Road.Her’s7 Inya Road. Tel: 01-504161, 720572CiaoNo 262, Pansodan Road, Upper Block, Kyauktada township. Tel: 01-249992, 385553The Garden Bistrocorner of Kaba Aye Pagoda and Kan Yeik Thar roads on the edge of Kandawgyi Park. Tel: 01-546487365 CaféNo.5, Signal Pagoda Rd, Dagon Township. Tel: 01-243047, 243639-43The Seoul223 Sule Pagoda Road. Tel: 01-242828 Ext: 6448Enn Japanese Sushi Bar10, Shwe Taung Kyar 2nd Ward, Bahan township. Tel: 01-503199Café Jasperbehind M3 Food Centre on West Shwegondine 5th Street. Tel: 01-516505

dessert. The Wagyu steak ($18), imported from Kagoshima, is one of the most popular options, along with the udon ($5) and beef croquette ($6). Bottom line – if you want to impress some-one, Enn is the place to bring them.

CAFÉ JASPERReasonably priced drinks, a wide-ranging food menu, cool location and intriguing am-biance are what set Café Jasper (behind M3 Food Centre on West Shwegondine 5th Street) apart from the rest. It’s a twin-level venue that

overlooks a sports ground near Shwedagon Pagoda, with a downstairs area that combines a number of intimate and comfortable booths. The walkways, meanwhile, are large pieces of slate set amidst a sea of pebbles. Upstairs there are smaller chairs set around chairs inside – with karaoke in a backroom – and there’s a balcony as well, which is perfect for enjoying a late after-noon smoothie. The menu is predominantly Thai

rice dishes that range from K2500 up to about K8000 in price.

AIR Mandalay 49

ittle Miss frog was clever and industrious, but her neighbour Big Miss Frog was stupid and lazy.

Everybody loved Little Miss Frog, and so Big Miss Frog was very jealous of her.

Little Miss Frog's mother said to her, “Child, take this bamboo tube and fetch me some wa-ter from the river.” Little Miss Frog went down to the river,

bamboo tube the current car-ried it away from her hand. Little Miss Frog jumped into the river to recover her bamboo tube, and she also was carried away by the current. Luckily for her, however, she was able to reach the bamboo tube. She clung to it, and thus saved her-self from drowning.

An old Ogress, some miles down the river, was in the habit of capturing human beings and animals, for she lived to

the river, clinging to the bam-boo tube, the Ogress swam out to her and brought her ashore. But as Little Miss Frog was so small, the Ogress thought that it was not worth eating her up, and so she decided to employ her as her servant.

The Ogress took Little Miss Frog to her house, and said, "Little Miss Frog, rid my hair of lice.” Little Miss Frog looked in the Ogress's hair, but it was as clean as it could be. However, she guessed that the Ogress would think her lazy if she said

hair. So she said to the Ogress, “Please, may I go into the kitch-en to wash my hands before I handle your beautiful hair?”

"What a clean little girl!" ex-claimed the Ogress. Little Miss Frog slipped out of the back

tree which was growing near-by, and brought back the ker-

hands in the kitchen, she went back to the Ogress. After pre-tending to search among the hair, she said, "Oh Mistress, what a lot of louse eggs there are

LITTLE

FROGin your hair,” and showed the

like a cluster of louse eggs. The Ogress was very pleased, and said that Little Miss Frog was an industrious little girl.

The next day the Ogress had to go out on some business, and she asked Little Miss Frog to mind the house in her ab-sence. “But don't you be in-quisitive and peep into my bedroom,” the Ogress warned with a frown. Little Miss Frog waited until the Ogress was lost from view, and then she peeped into the bedroom. She saw bones and skulls and half-eaten bodies of human beings and animals. But she kept her nerve, and after carefully shut-ting the bedroom door again, she sat down quietly as if she had seen nothing. The Ogress came back, and she said to Little Miss Frog, "You are a good little girl. Will you stay with me in this house for many months?”

“I would love to, Mistress,” re-plied Little Miss Frog, “but I am always wondering who is look-ing after my old mother, now that her only child is away from her.”

“Are you afraid of me?" asked

whether Little Miss Frog had disobeyed her and discovered the secret of her bedroom.

"I respect you, Mistress,” said Little Miss Frog sweetly, “and I love you. But I am not afraid of you.” The Ogress was so

Folk tale

MISS

50 AIR Mandalay

pleased with Little Miss Frog's answer that she gave her sev-en bars of gold, and allowed her to walk back along the riv-er bank to her own village.

All the frogs in the village praised Little Miss Frog when they heard her story, and Big Miss Frog became very jealous. She went down to the river in a huff, taking a bamboo tube,

astride the bamboo tube. The Ogress, as expected, swam out to Big Miss Frog. Although Big Miss Frog was big for a frog, she was too small for the Ogress to eat her, and so the Ogress de-cided to employ her as her ser-vant. The Ogress took the frog to her house and said, "Big Miss Frog, rid my hair of lice.” Big Miss Frog gave the hair a gla-ce, and told her mistress that there were no lice in her hair. “What a lazy girl,” thought the Ogress. “She is telling me a lie just because she is too lazy to look for the lice.” The next day the Ogress had to go out on

somebusinessand she asked Big Miss Frog to mind the house. "But don't you be inquisitive and peep into my bedroom.” She warned with a frown. The moment the Ogress left the house, Big Miss Frog opened the bedroom door, and seeing the bones and skull and the half-eaten bodies, she cried out in fear, “I want to go home!” The Ogress, who had

gone only a short distance, heard her cries and came rushing back. Finding Big Miss Frog crying, with the bedroom door wide open, she at once knew that Big Miss Frog had dis-obeyed her. So she ate up Big Miss Frog.

The moment the Ogress left the house, Big Miss Frog opened the bedroomdoor, and seeing the bones and skull and the half-eatenbodies, she cried out in fear.

AIR Mandalay 51

Route Map

52 AIR Mandalay

MANDALAYMandalay was founded in 1857 and said to be the last royal capital of Myanmar. It is the centre of Buddhism studies in Myanmar and the heart of handicrafts like gold-leaf beating, silk weaving, tapestries, marble and wood carving.

NYAUNG U (BAGAN)Bagan is one of the richest and most accessible archaeological sites in the

world. Located alongside the Ayeyarwaddy River, Bagan is home to over 2,000 temples and pagodas, and the centre of Myanmar’s lacquerware

industry.

SITTWAY (MRAUK U)Sittway is the capital of Rakhine State, bordering India and Bangladesh. Accessible by boat from Sittway is Mrauk U, an ancient city and archaeological complex with many interesting buildings and temples.

CHIANG MAI (THAILAND)Chiang Mai was founded 700 years ago as the capital of the ancient Lanna

Kingdom. Thailand's second city, set within a two sq km moat, has retained many of its traditional wooden houses and has interesting night markets.

from Chiang Mai to Yangon and Mandalay.

THANDWE (NGAPALI BEACH)The beautiful and pristine Ngapali beach is located here. Ngapali is home to unspoiled white sandy beaches with crystal clear water suitable for snorkeling,

KYAING TONGKyaing Tong is situated in the eastern-most part of Shan State near the Chinese and Thai borders. Kyaing Tong is the center for the Wa, Shan,

Akha, Anh, Akhu and Lahu hill tribes. (01 April – 30 September)

TACHILEIKTachileik is an important border trade outlet near Thailand and Laos. Near Tachileik is Mai Lah where various interesting tribes can be seen.(01 April – 30 September)

HEHO (INLE LAKE)Heho is the gateway to the scenic Inle Lake and southern Shan State. The

YANGONYangon is a city with old world charms and modern amenities. It is the major commercial hub of the nation as well as the main gateway to the rest of Myanmar.

DESTINATIONSAIR Mandalay’s

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Getting There

International, Silk Air, Air China, Biman Airlines, Indian Airlines, Eva Airlines, Mandarin Airlines and Malaysian Airlines. Air Mandalay links Yangon and Mandalay with Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Entry formalitiesVisas: Tourist and business visas are valid for 28 days. Tourist visas are non-extendable; business visas may be extended for 28 days. Transit visas are valid for 24 hours. Apply to a Myanmar embassy or consulate, with four photos and your passport. The cost of a tourist visa is approximately US$20; the cost of a business visa is approximately US$40.

Customs: Besides personal effects visitors are allowed 400 cigarettes (100 cigars or 250g of unrolled tobacco), two quarts of liquor and 500ml of cologne or perfume. Cameras, radios, cassette players, calculators etc must be declared at Customs on arrival and taken out on departure. Foreign currency in excess of US$2000 must be declared. Retain a copy of the Customs declaration form to be presented when you leave Myanmar.

Airport Tax: Airport tax is US$10 per head to be paid on departure.

Vaccinations: None are required.

Airport Transfers: Taxis from the Yangon International Airport to downtown will cost about US$8 to US$10 depending on the destination. Taxi travel within Yangon will cost about 2000 kyats depending on distance travelled. One must negotiate before boarding a taxi.

Currency: The US$ is widely used and preferred. Generally credit cards are not accepted. The national currency is kyat (pronounced chat) and is divided into 100 pyas. At present the following kyat bank notes are in general use: K5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000.

Government and business – 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, Monday to Friday.

Shops – 10 am to 9 pm, usually Monday to Saturday.

Domestic TravelBy Air:Heho (Inlay), Tachileik, Kyaingtong, Thandwe (Ngapali Beach Resort), Sittway and Monywa.

By Train: Many Myanmar Railway destinations are open to foreign tourists. The Yangon-Mandalay trip is the most popular. For ticket information consult the tourist counter at the station; or consult a travel agent.

By Bus: Buses are operated by the state-owned Road Transport Enterprise. Air-conditioned express buses link Yangon to Myeiktila, Pyay, Mandalay and Taunggyi, with more routes planned. Express buses also depart Yangon for Mandalay.

MUSINGSMyanmar

54 AIR Mandalay

Post & Telecommunications

and Strand Road, opens from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, Monday to Friday. You can make international calls, and send telexes and faxes at the

HealthThe same precautions are the same as anywhere else – drink only bottled water and do not eat raw vegetables, only eat fruits that you can peel or cut yourself. Be wary of eating food from street stalls. Use insect repellent when necessary and use sunscreen liberally when exposed to the intense, tropical sun.

DressCotton clothing and a light wrap for the evenings during the cool season are recommended. Do not wear shorts, tanktops or sleeveless blouses when visiting temples. Dress modestly at all times – revealing clothing is frowned upon in Myanmar. Footwear must be removed before entering a temple.

DrivingAn International Driving Permit is required. This must be presented to the Police for endorsement, or in the case of a visitor’s licence, for insurance.

Business/Social TipsAppointments should be made in advance. Punctuality is appreciated. For business meetings men should wear a lightweight suit and tie. Women should wear modest clothes. It is customary to shake hands on meeting and saying goodbye. When addressing people

is useful, but not essential, to have some business cards in Myanmar script. Business cards are exchanged after introduction. Many executives speak English. Visitors should be receptive to local customs and conventions. When sitting cross-legged on sofas or cushions, soles of the feet must not be shown. Footwear is strictly prohibited in pagodas and monasteries. Tips in restaurants and hotels are around 5 per cent to 10 per cent. Tips for taxis are not necessary. On social occasions, for example an invitation to a restaurant, be punctual and dress as for business meetings unless otherwise indicated.

ClimateMyanmar has three seasons. The cold season is from October to February with average temperatures of between 20-24•Celcius.The hot season is from March to May with average temperatures of between 30-35•Celcius. The wet season occurs from June to September with average temperatures of between 25-30•Celcius– Yangon normally receives early morning and afternoon showers while rainfall in Bagan and Mandalay is very low. The weather around Inle Lake and Shan State is pleasant year round, but cold at night from December to February with average temperature of between 8-12• Celcius.

TimeMyanmar Standard Time (MST) is six hours and 30 minutes ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT/UTC).

AIR Mandalay 55

Food

CURRY IN

It’s not surprising that a country as ethnically diverse as Myanmar has a host of interesting and delicious foods. Here, we recommend Kachin food.

Kachin foods are rich in herbs and spices and the trib-al people believe their dishes are particularly good for health. In most of their recipes, Kachin use either kyauk gin (a type of ginger), magrant (a kind of bark), thittone kat hmo (a type of mushroom that grows on logs) or ngarhny-iyweik (a kind of plant that is good for blood circulation) as seasoning. Most of the curries are spicy and hot but it’s not surprising given Kachin live near icy mountains.

Fish curry is very popular dish,as it is baked in hot ash.

INGREDIENTS

lemon grass (1)

green chillies (2)

lime (1)

phat phae leaves (3)

magaran and makhar

Kachin spicy powder (1/2 tablespoon)

shalap leaves (10)

for about 30 minutes. Remove, unwrap from leaves and enjoy!

FISH

56 AIR Mandalay

Map of Yangon

AIR Mandalay 57

Map of Bagan

Map of Mandalay

58 AIR Mandalay

AIR MANDALAY LIMITED PASSENGER SALES AGENTS IN YANGON, MYANMAR

ASIAN TRAILS LTD.No.73, Pyay Road., Dagon TownshipTel: (+95.1) 211 212, 727 422, 223 262Fax: (+95.1) 211670Email: res@asiantrails.com.mm

AUTO NET TRAVELS LIMITEDNo. 28, Sinohdan St., Latha TownshipTel: (+95.1) 226 428, 383 996, 385 710Fax: (+95.1) 382 372Email: autonettrvl@myanmar.com.mm

ADVENTURE MYANMAR TRAVELS & TOURSNo. 27, Inya Myaing RoadBahan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 502901 to 5Fax: (+95.1) 502906, 502907E-mail: info@amtt.com.mm

ASIA GLOBAL TRAVELS & TOURSNo. 66, Ground Floor , 16th Street Lanmadaw TownshipTel: (+95.1) 221 173, 228 753, 226 338Fax: (+95.1) 220 354Email: sales-agtt@myanmar.com.mm info-agtt@myanmar.com.mm

BANDOOLA TOURS & TRAVELS LTD.No. 1st Fl., 77, Shwebonthar St.Pabedan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 253 601, 245 327 Ext: 112Fax: (+95.1) 248 174Email: BANDOOLA@mptmail.net.mm

COLUMBUS TRAVELS & TOURSNo. 586, Strand RoadCorner of 7th St., Lanmadaw TownshipTel: (+95.1) 229 245, 229 243, 221 881Fax: (+95.1) 222 790Email: columbus@mptmail.net.mm

CARAVAN TRAVELS & TOURSJunction of Ngapali & Airport Road Ngapali, Thandwe, MyanmarTel: 043-44044, 043-44111

DIETHELM TRAVEL LTD.3rd Fl., The Dusit Inya Lake ResortMayangone TownshipTel: (+95.1) 652 898, 652 905, 652 906Fax: (+95.1) 653 182Email: leisure@diethelm.com.mm

EPG TRAVELRm no. 702 , La Pyayt Wun PlazaNo. 37, Signal Pagoda RoadDagon TownshipTel: (+95.1) 371 383-4, 371 935-6Fax: (+95.1) 370 835Email: info@epg.com.mm

EXOTISSIMO TRAVEL CO., LTD.#0303, 3rd Fl., Sakura TowerNo. 339, Bogyoke Aung San StreetKyauktada Twonship, YangonTel: (+95.1) 255 266/427/120/388Fax: (+95.1) 255 428Email: myanmar@exotissimo.com

FAIRNESS TRAVELS & TOURSNo. 45, Bo La Yaung StreetBo Sein Hman Qr, East Shwe Gon Daing Bahan Township, YangonTel: (+95.1) 545576, 545601 Ext:104/105Fax: (+95.1) 545119Email: fairness@baganmail.net.mm

GULF TRAVEL & TOURNo. 69, Sulae Pagoda Road, Near Central Point Tower, Kyauktada TownshipTel: (+95.1) 383 468, 249 187, 374 316Fax: (+95.1) 374 316Email: gulftravels@myanmar.com.mm

GOLDEN EXPRESS TOURS & HOTEL97-B, Wadan St., Lanmadaw TownshipTel: (+95.1) 226 779, 225 569, 705 876Fax: (+95.1) 227 636, 225 569Email: GETOURS@mptmail.net.mm

HTOO TRAVELS CO., LTD.1st Fl., 209C, Shwegondine Rd.Bahan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 548 554, 548 039, 558 416 Fax: (+95.1) 548 039Email: htootrvl@yangon.net.mm

INDOCHINA SERVICES TRAVEL LTD.No.8 A, West May Kha Lane (2)Mayangone TownshipTel: (+95.1) 650 982, 661 724Fax: (+95.1) 651 002, 664 014Email: info@is-myanmar.com

MYANMAR NARA-APEX TRAVEL & TOURSNo. 64(B), Rm. B-4L, Shwe Gon PlazaBahan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 540 096 or 7 Fax: (+95.1) 543 789Email: naraapex@baganmail.net.mm

MYANMAR TRAVELS & TOURS77-91, Sule Pagoda Rd., Kyauktada TownshipTel: (+95.1) 252 859, 371 910, 374 281Fax: (+95.1) 254 417Email: admin@myanmartravel.net.mm

MYA TRAVELS & TOURSNo. 93, 32nd Street, Pabedan TownshipTel (+95.1) 384 299, 371 668, 254 463Fax:(+95.1) 254 463Email: myatravel@mptmail.net.mm myatravel@gmail.com

NICE FARE TRAVEL CO., LTDNo. 33 Ground Floor, Chindwin Yeikthar38 th Street, Kyauktada TownshipTel: (+95.1) 441 2578, 384 273-4, 701476Fax: (+95.1) 384 274, 385 525, 393 151Email: nicefare@myanmar.com.mm

ORCHESTRA TRAVEL LTD.No. 201, Bo Myat Htun RoadBotataung TownshipTel: (+95.1) 294 612, 200 883, 201 271Fax: (95.1) 201 115Email: orchestra@mptmail.net.mm

SHAN YOMA TRAVELS & TOURS CO., LTDNo. 124/126, 50th StreetPazundaung TownshipTel: (+95.1) 295 510, 204 152Fax: (+95.1) 299 389Email: shanyoma@mptmail.net.mm

SHINING STAR TOURS EXPRESS LTD.No. 53, Kon Zay Dan SteetPabedan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 240 996, 240 113, 246 147Fax: (+95.1) 240 080Email: shiningstar@mptmail.net.mm

SEVEN DIAMOND EXPRESS TRAVELS CO., LTD.No. 65, Thein Phyu Road (Lower Block)Botataung TownshipTel: (+95.1) 203 398, 297 154Fax: (+95.1) 299040Email: sdmtravels@myanmar.com.mm

SUN FAR TRAVEL CO., LTD.No.25,27,31 Ground Floor38th St., Kyauktada TownshipTel: (+95.1) 243 992-3, 380 888, 701 428Fax: (+95.1) 254 599, 246 318Email: domestic@sunfar.com.mm reservation@sunfar.com.mm

TOUR MANDALAY CO., LTD.Rm. 02/03 , 2nd FloorPearl Condominium 1Pearl Centre, Bahan TownshipTel: (+95.1) 540 475, 541 428, 543 801Fax: (+95.1) 541 098, 548 014Email: KZN.TMC@mptmail.net.mm tourmandalay@mptmail.net.mm

AIR Mandalay 59

AIR MANDALAY LIMITED PASSENGER SALES AGENTS ABROAD

PSA IN FRANCE

Blue JadeHeron Building, 5th Fl. 10, Rue de la Paix - 75002 ParisTel: (+33.1) 428 666 52Fax: (+33.1) 490 307 20Email: info@blue-jade.com eccr@loxinfo.co.th

PSA IN GERMANY

Antares International GmbH Travel & TradingGrosse Bleichen 1620354 Hamburg, GermanyTel: (+49.40) 3571 5668Fax: (+49.40) 352 399Email: cmosebach@antares-international.de cmosebach@myanmar-resisen.de

PSA IN ISRAEL

The Vered Group of Companies4 Ben Gurion St.Ness Ziona 70400, IsraelTel: (+972.8) 940 2224, 940 4676Fax: (+972.8) 930 1769, 930 1246Email: asian-airlines4@mamanaviation.co.il

PSA IN SWEDEN

INTREPKungsgatan 50, Box 3410SE-103 68 Stockholm, SwedenTel: (+46.8) 247863Celluar: +46 708 648 249Fax: (+46.8) 210211Email: maks@intrep.nu

PSA IN POLAND

INTREPUl. Pilchowicka 9/11PL-02-175 Warszawa, PolandTel: (+48.22) 868 1328Cell: +48 508 39 874Fax: (+48.22) 868 1329Email: maks@intrep.nu

PSA IN JAPAN

Apex International Inc. Co., Ltd.Hosoi Bldg, 6F No.4-1, YotsuyaShinjyuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan 160Tel: (+81.3) 3350 8866Fax: (+81.3 ) 3357 0384

PSA IN SINGAPORE

Myanmar Travels & Tours Pte. Ltd.78, South Bridge Rd., #06-02Singapore 058708Tel:(+656) 5353 870 Fax:(+656) 534 0451

Yadanar Travel Pte Ltd.111, North Bridge Road# 03-05, Paninsula , Singapore 179098Tel: (+656) 6334 9353, 6337 3011Fax: (+656) 6338 7018, 6337 1451

PSA IN HONG KONG

Rover Travel ServicesRoom M206, 14/F, Haleson Building No.1, Jubilee St., Central, Hong KongTel: (+85.2) 2845 4545Fax: (+85.2) 2868 5824Email: rovertvl@biznetvigator.com

PSA IN KOREA

Wooree Agency Corporation Soon Hwa Building, 10th Floor, 5-2Soon Hwa Dong, Chung Gu, Seoul, KoreaTel: (+82.02) 775 7666Fax: (+82.02) 774 7765Email: worsel@chol.com

PSA IN BANGKOK, THAILAND

Blue Jade (Bangkok)ECCR, 253 Asoke, 10th Fl.253 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke)Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110Tel: (+66.2) 664 0661-2Fax: (+66.2) 664 0663Email: info@blue-jade.com

Friendly Star Travel Service & Tour52/3 Pun Rd., Silom, BangrakBangkok 10500Tel: (+66.2) 233 3052 / 236 3562Fax: (+66.2) 236 9476

Jakk Travel Co., Ltd.Room 104, S&B Tower, 68-68/6 Pan Rd.Silom, Bangruk, Bangkok 10500Tel: (+66.2) 637 7321-2Fax: (+66.2) 637 7323Email: jakk@ksc.th.com jakk_travel@hotmail.com

PSA IN CHIANG MAI, THAILAND

Charal Business Chiangmai123 Changmoi Rd.Chiang Mai 50300Tel: (+66.53) 252 050 (10 lines)Fax: (+66.53) 232 447Email: Charaltr@loxinfo.co.th

Chiang Mai B.I.S Travel Ltd., Part.No. 132 Sithiwong Road, T. ChanmoiA.Muang, Chiang Mai 50300Tel: (+66.53) 233 962/7, 234 225/6Fax: (+66.53) 233 966Email: boni@loxinfo.co.th

Friendly Star Travel Service & Tour420/23 Chiang Mai Land VilageChangklan Road, Muang, Chiang Mai 50100Tel: (+66.53) 275 100, 204 770, 204 772Fax: (+66.53) 275 098Email: friendlystar.cnx@gmail.com

Lanna View Travel48 Chaiyapoom Rd., Tambon ChangmoiMuang District, Chiang Mai 53000Tel: (+66.53) 874508-10Fax: (+66.53) 874495Email: lannaview@csloxinfo.com

Nara Tour Co., Ltd.100/27 Moo 3, Rajsamakee Rd.T.Nong-Hoi, A.Muang, Chiang Mai 50000Tel: (+66.53) 800 441-2Fax: (+66.53) 800 443Email: nrtmp@loxinfo.co.th

Standard Tour Co., Ltd.414/20-21 Chang Klan Rd.Chiang Mai 50100Tel: (+66.53) 204 520-4Fax: (+66.53) 272 455, 204 218Email: ticketing@standardtour.com

60 AIR Mandalay

EMERGENCYPolice 199

Police Headquarters,Yangon 282541/284764

Fire 191/192

Ambulance 295133

Ambulance (Red Cross,Yangon) 682368/683225

Yangon General Hospital (Emergency) 286863-4/ 256112-31

Traffic Investigation 201779

Customs 253046/285607

Immigration 286434/651113

INFORMATIONTourist Information 282075

Tourist Information (Airport) 662652

Ministry of Hotels & Tourism 254098/ 282075

EMBASSIESAustralia 251809 (Fax: 246159)

People’s Republic of Bangladesh 526144 (Fax: 515273)

Brunei Darussalam 526985 (Fax: 512854)

Cambodia 549609 (Fax: 541462)

People’s Republic of China 221280-81 (Fax: 227019)

Arab Republic of Egypt 222886 (Fax: 222865)

France 212523 (Fax: 212527)

Federal Republic of Germany 548951 (Fax: 548899)

Republic of Indonesia 254465 (Fax: 254468)

India 243972 (Fax: 388414)

Israel 515115 (Fax: 512116)

Italy 527100-1 (Fax: 514565)

Japan 549644-8 (Fax: 549643)

Republic of Korea 527142-44 (Fax: 513286)

Laos People’s Democratic Republic 222482 (Fax: 227446)

Malaysia 220248 (Fax: 221840)

Royal Nepalese 545880 (Fax: 549803)

Islamic Republic of Pakistan 222881 (Fax: 221147)

Philippines 558149-151 (Fax: 558154)

Republic of Singapore 559001 (Fax: 559921)

Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka 222812 (Fax: 221509)

Russian Federation 241955 (Fax: 241953)

Royal Thai 226721 (Fax: 221713)

United Kingdom 256438 (Fax: 380321)

United States of America 536509 (Fax: 650306)

Socialist Republic of Vietnam 548905 (Fax: 549302)

Federal Republic of Yugoslavia 536655

DIRECTORIESEnquiry 100

Booking (inland) 101

Booking (Overseas) 131/667444/657555

Complaint 102

Cellular, enquiry & complaints 282788/665942/282788

Telegraphs, enquiry & complaints 273579

Telex (international) booking 274195

Telex complaints 280431

AIRLINESAir Mandalay (6T) 501520, 525488 (Fax: 525937)

Aeroflot 294006 (Fax: 245092)

Air China (CA) 500054 (Fax: 505023)

Air France (AF) 255430 (Fax: 255303)

All Nippon Airways (NH) 255412

Asiana Airlines (OZ) 371382 (Fax: 549872)

Austrian Airlines (OS) (02) 2670873

Bangkok Airways (PG) 255122/255265 (Fax: 255119)

Biman Bangaldesh (BG) 240922/242 997

China Airlines (CI) 245484 (Fax: 246330)

Druk Airlines (KB) 524904 (Fax: 525948)

Eva Airways (BR) 298001 (Fax: 296272)

Indian Airlines (IC) 253598 (Fax: 248175)

Japan/JAL Airlines (JL) 243030 Ext 101

Korean Air (KE) 667410 (Fax: 662355)

Lao Airlines (QV) 534852 (Fax: 513432)

Lufthansa (LH) 527110 (Fax: 527135)

Mandarin Airlines (AE) 245484 (Fax: 246330)

Malaysia Airlines (MH) 241007 Ext: 703/704

Myanmar Airways Int’l (8M) 255260 (Fax: 255305)

Pakistan Int’l Airlines (PK) 245069

Phuket Airlines Co Ltd (9R) (+66.2) 2855038-9

(Fax: (+66.2) 6798236)

Qatar Airways (QR) 255030-2 (Fax: 255033)

Royal Brunei Airlines (BI) 243024

Silk Air (MI) / Singapore Airlines (SQ) 255287-289 (Fax: 255290)

Thai Airways International (TG) 255499 (Fax: 255490)

Yangon Airways (HK) 383100-7

RAILWAYEnquires 274024/274027

Dagon – Mandalay 249024

Malikha – Mandalay (02) 21385

San Thaw Tar 221460

BUS SERVICESHighway Bus Terminal, Sin-ma-lite 286588

Highway Bus Terminal, Saw Bwa Gyi Gon 665545

AKM Express 636441

Hnin Thu Wai 246283

Leo Express,Yangon 249512

Leo Express, Mandalay (02) 33899

New Bagan Express,Yangon 642463

New Bagan Express, Bagan (062) 70005

Rainbow Express 272250

Sun Moon Express 642903

NUMBERSUseful

Month Festival Location Duration

APRIL Thingyan Water Festival - Myanmar New Year Throughout the country 5 days

APRIL Shwe Maw Daw Pagoda Festival Pago 7 days

MAY Full moon of Kason (pouring water on the Bodhi tree) The whole country 1 days

JUNE Pakokku Thiho Shin Pagoda Festival Pakokku 15 days

JULY Waso Festival Throughout the country 12 days

AUGUST Taungbyone and Yadana Gu Sprit (Nat) Festival Near Mandalay 12 days

SEPTEMBER Shwezigon and Manuha Pagoda Festival Bagan 15, 2 days

EVENTS CALENDAR

AIR Mandalay 61