all-q plus to unveil the secret of beauty€¦ · to unveil the secret of beauty christine saecker...

DSM Nutritional Products ALL-Q® plus – 4.5.2007_CS

CONFIDENTIAL

ALL-Q® plus

to unveil the secret of beauty

Christine Saecker Global Marketing Manager Personal Care


CONFIDENTIAL

Presentation Overview

• Introduction

• Science behind ALL-Q® plus

• Patent, regulatory, safety aspects

• Formulating with ALL-Q® plus

• Market concepts with ALL-Q® plus

• Conclusion

DSM Nutritional Products

CONFIDENTIAL

ALL-Q® plus • the ideal anti-ageing active ingredient • for skin care products • combining CoQ10 and Vitamin E • in a liquid form

INTRODUCTION ALL-Q® at a glance


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Vitamin E and CoQ10 are some of the best known actives in skin care products

One consumer out of two knows that Vitamin E and CoQ10 are active ingredients in cosmetic products

Vitamin E 48%

CoQ10 42%

INTRODUCTION High awareness of ALL-Q® plus actives

Survey among 1200 women in Western Europe

Awareness for

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Characteristics of both CoQ10 and Vitamin E

• fat soluble vitamin / quasi-vitamin • found in almost every tissue cell and the skin

• the only naturally occurring fat soluble antioxidants in the skin • content in the skin decreases with age and/or UV irradiation

• proven benefits in skin care • are mainly secreted to the top layers of skin by the sebaceous

glands (sebum)

INTRODUCTION Main features of ALL-Q® plus actives


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Science behind ALL-Q® plus


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ALL-Q® plus mirrors the natural presence of Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E in the skin

ALL-Q® plus made of CoQ10

and Vitamin E acetate

Vitamin E Coenzyme Q10

naturally present in skin

(SSL) (SSL)

Coenzyme Q10 as electron carrier

Vitamin E as antioxidant

skin surface lipids

living skin cells

Coenzyme Q10 as antioxidant


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ALL-Q® plus on the skin surface

Skin Surface is covered by lipid mixture of sebum and skin cell lipids (SSL = skin surface lipids).

SSL are composed of triglycerides, wax esters, squalene and cholesterol, as well as Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E as antioxidants.

SSL are the outermost barrier of the body constantly exposed to the pro-oxidative environment . (UV, ozone, smog, dust, NO, etc.)

Production of CoQ10 (and Vitamin E?) in the skin is reduced with age.


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ALL-Q® plus Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E Acetate on the skin

Ubiquinone / CoQ10 Ubiquinol / CoQ10H2

OH

OH

R

CH3 H3CO

H3CO

skin enzymes

skin enzymes

Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol

R


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ALL-Q® plus Antioxidant activity: CoQ10 and Vitamin E work together

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl radical

CoQ10H2 Ubiquinol

Oxidative stress free radical

Vitamin E Acetate Skin enzymes

CoQ10 Ubiquinone

Skin enzymes Vitamin E Acetate Coenzyme Q10

NADH NADPH

NAD+

NADP+

ALL-Q® plus

Regeneration of oxidized Vitamin E by Ubiquinol

Adapted from Quinn et al. 1999


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ALL-Q® plus replenishes the natural reservoir of CoQ10 and Vitamin E

Levels of CoQ10 and Vitamin E in Skin

ALL-

Q® p

lus

Nat

ural

re

serv

oir

Nat

ural

re

serv

oir

Nat

ural

re

serv

oir

Natural reservoir

UV-light radiated

Replenished by

ALL-Q® plus

Adapted from Passi et al. 2002


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CoQ10 protects together with Vitamin E the skin surface lipids from peroxidation

Passi et al. 2002

0

50

100

150

200

0 1 2 4 6 8 10

MED (UV light exposure)

nano

/mic

ro g

ram

per

10c

m2

Vitamin E (ng/10cm2)Coenzyme Q10 (ng/10cm2)Squalene (µg/10cm2)Isolated Squalene (μg/10cm2)

Influence of UV light on levels of skin lipids and antioxidants

Passi et al. 2002

*

* pure squalene without protecting sebum

Lipophilic antioxidants are needed for skin protection


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EFFICACY anti-wrinkle activity

CoQ10 reduces wrinkles significantly

Reduction of wrinkles around the eyes after application of CoQ10 for 6 months

40

60

80

100

120

placebo 0.3% Coenzyme Q10

n = 24

n = 24

Blatt et al. 1999

Rt-V

alue


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EFFICACY Protection from UVA Damage

CoQ10 significantly protects the skin from UVA damage

UVA-induced ultra weak photon emission after application of CoQ10

90

92

94

96

98

100

102

placebo 0.3% Coenzyme Q10

n = 12

n = 12 Blatt et al. 1999


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ALL-Q® plus – in vivo efficacy

ALL-Q® plus protects the skin lipids from UV-induced peroxidation

•20 volunteers

•7 days, once daily application on inner forearm

•UVA-irradiation (10J/cm2)

•Determination (HPLC) of squaleneperoxide formed

0

5

10

15

20

25

Inh

ibit

ion

of

Per

oxi

dat

ion

in %

Placebo 2% ALL-Q® plus



Patent, regulatory, safety aspects


CONFIDENTIAL

Patent Situation for ALL-Q® plus

Use of CoQ10 in personal care products is state of the art. Based on early Japanese patents, now expired Use of CoQ10 and combinations of CoQ10 with Vit E for skin care represents patent-free state of the art

Broad public domain with respect to efficacy claims: Prevention of skin damage by UV radiation Suppression of UV-induced lipid peroxidation Anti-ageing Promotion of cell metabolism Skin activation and moisturization Skin improvement (in the sense of beauty) Pigmentation treatment

Combinations with additional ingredients A few patent documents claiming combinations with other actives need to be checked but are not considered as a hurdle.

High degree of freedom for applications and claims


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Safety and Toxicology

ALL-Q® plus is safe for its use in cosmetic application

• CoQ10 fermentatively produced – non-GMO • Tox data of all ingredients used in ALL-Q® plus show no adverse

effects. • The topical application of ALL-Q® plus is considered as safe

with no indications for skin incompatibilities • Animal tests were neither initiated nor conducted with

ALL-Q® plus • Long history of safe use of CoQ10, Vitamin E acetate and

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in personal care products by leading cosmetic companies


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Regulatory

Essentially, no regulatory restrictions for the cosmetic application of ALL-Q® plus

• US: no restrictions • Europe: no restrictions • LAA: no restrictions • China: no restrictions • Asia: can be used in most countries

• Japan: max concentration: 0.03% (on the list of " Restricted Cosmetic Ingredient" of MHLW. not for cosmetic products applied on mucous tissues.

• Australia: CoQ10 not notified yet. But if ALL-Q® plus is used in low concentrations (<1%) and the total imported amount does not exceed 100kg it can be used potential to develop an exclusive product



Formulating

DSM Nutritional Products

CONFIDENTIAL

Convenient handling of liquid ALL-Q® plus

• ALL-Q® plus is a very easy to use liquid

• It is oil-miscible • And can be directly added

to the emulsion


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FORMULATION GUIDELINES

ALL-Q® plus is easy to formulate

• Composition ALL-Q® plus (INCI): • 7.5% Ubiquinone • 20% Tocopheryl Acetate • 72.5% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

• ALL-Q® plus is oil-soluble and very easy to formulate • Add to emulsions around 35° to 40°C

• during cool-off phase in the manufacturing of an emulsion • under homogenization

• Allows also addition to gels, creams not heated up • Add EDTA • Tolerates a broad range of pH • Avoid exposure to direct sun-light as it can lead to a colour change


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ALL-Q® plus can be easily added to existing emulsions

• O/W emulsion was prepared and cooled down to 35°C. • 4% ALL-Q plus or 0.3% crystalline Coenzyme Q10 were added under intensive

mixing and homogenization for several hours photos taken

with cryst. CoQ10

with ALL-Q® plus

Superior emulsion aspect with ALL-Q® plus

FORMULATION GUIDELINES


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STABILITY in FORMULATIONS

Ingredients INCI Nomenclature %

Arlatone 2121 Sorbitan Stearate & Sucrose Cocoate 2.5

Lipocire Na 10 Pastilles Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 2.5

Tegin M Glyceryl Stearate 0.8

Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 12.5

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & Butylparaben & Propylparaben & Isobutylparaben 1

D-Panthenol 75 L Panthenol 0.5

Keltrol CG T Xanthan Gum 0.7

Carbopol Ultrez 21 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.15

Glycerin Glycerin 4

Water dem. Aqua 72.55

Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.1

ALL-Q® plus Ubiquinone & Tocopheryl Acetate & C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2

KOH 10% solution Potassium Hydroxide 0.7

ALL-Q® plus is stable in formulations with reference to lead component CoQ10

• stable formulation: viscosity, pH

• smell, color: i.O

• ALL-Q plus: compoment CoQ10 (0.15% nominal in emulsion)

Moisturizing Body Lotion with ALL-Q® plus (100162-012/001)

0.1

0.11

0.12

0.13

0.14

0.15

0.16

5°C RT 43°CCon

cent

ratio

n of

CoQ

10 in

em

ulsi

on (

%)

Stability checked at 5°C, RT and 43°C after 3 months


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Evaluating the color impact of ALL-Q® plus

0.5 – 5.0%


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Visual aspect indicates ALL-Q® plus concentration

0.5% 1.0% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0% 5.0%


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Playing with Concentrations

The natural color of ALL-Q® plus offers the opportunity to indicate the positioning and value of a cosmetic product

ALL-Q® plus concentration in formulation

low high

Color impact

Value

Possible positioning



Market Concepts


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APPLICATION CONCEPTS

ALL-Q® plus is the ideal active ingredient for • skin protection formulations (sun care, environmental stress,

etc.). • regenerating products such as night creams to reduce wrinkles • intensive treatment products: eye or hand care • energising applications (wake-up formulations) • oral care applications

Recommended use concentration • 0.5 to 2.0% • Intensive treatment: up to 4.0%


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Premium Positioning with ALL-Q® plus

BALEA Eye gel aqua - € 2.55

BALEA Anti-wrinkle eye cream - € 3.35

Regular product Premium product with CoQ10

Available at dm, drugstore chain in Germany


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Babaria, Spain Premium face cream with ALL-Q® plus

Aloe vera cream enforced with Q10

Vitamin C and E to delay the appearance of wrinkles

Claims

Anti-wrinkle cream for daily use.

Perfect combination of its active component to fight against the signs of aging


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Babaria, Spain Anti-wrinkle face cream contains ALL-Q® plus


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CONCLUSION

• ALL-Q® plus is a well balanced combination of the two skin antioxidants Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E.

• ALL-Q® plus is an easy to use product form of Coenzyme Q10 for personal care applications.

• ALL-Q® plus has a high freedom of usage regarding patents and is ideal for anti-aging and skin protecting formulations.

• ALL-Q® plus has proven skin protecting activities.

• Inclusion of ALL-Q® plus supports premium positioning



What can ALL-Q® plus do for your products?



Back up


CONFIDENTIAL

History of CoQ10

1957 Coenzyme Q10 first isolated from beef heart mitochondria by Dr. Frederick Crane of Wisconsin

Named ubiquinone (=ubiquitous quinone)

1958 Prof Karl Folkers of Merck determined chemical structure

1975 CoQ10 synthesis developed by Japanese

1978 Peter Mitchell received Nobel Prize for biological energy transfer theory, including role of CoQ10

Early 90 First larger promoted use in a cosmetic product: Juvena (Beiersdorf)

Karl Folkers


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What is Coenzyme Q10?

• Natural, fat-soluble compound found in most plant and animal cells • The only oil-soluble antioxidant synthesized by human body (from

amino acid tyrosine) • Also known as ubiquinone or Coenzyme Q10 (short: CoQ10) • “Ubi” = latin for “everywhere” • “10” = contains 10 isoprene units • “Coenzyme” = activity of enzymes depend on the presence of Q10

10

H


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• Vitamin-like and essential to health

• CoQ10 essential for generating energy (ATP) for body

• Daily dietary intake approx. 3-5 mg mostly from meat + fish

• Proven anti-aging properties for the skin

• CoQ10 content of the skin decreases with age

Occurrence and Function of CoQ10

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all-q plus to unveil the secret of beauty€¦ · to unveil the secret of beauty christine saecker...

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