all you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Kyoto
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Chris Rowthorn
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Kyoto ����������� 4
Kyoto’s Top 10 ������������������ 6
What’s New �������������������� 13
Need to Know �����������������14
Top Itineraries ����������������16
If You Like… �������������������� 18
Month by Month �������������21
With Kids ������������������������ 24
For Free ��������������������������26
Like a Local ��������������������28
Eating ���������������������������29Drinking & Nightlife ���36Entertainment �������������38Shopping ��������������������� 40Temples & Shrines ����� 42
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Kyoto 143
Survival Guide 175
Kyoto Maps 206
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Kyoto 44
Transport ��������������������� 176
Directory A–Z �������������� 182
Language ���������������������190
Index ���������������������������� 200
Kyoto Today ����������������� 144
History �������������������������� 146
People & Culture ��������� 158
Arts & Crafts �����������������161
Architecture & Gardens ������������������������ 168
The Tea Ceremony ������ 173
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ������������������ 46Kyoto Station Area ��������48
Downtown Kyoto �����������53
Central Kyoto �����������������68
Southern Higashiyama ��78
Northern Higashiyama �������������������91
Northwest Kyoto ����������101
Arashiyama & Sagano ������������������������� 108
Kitayama Area & North Kyoto ������������������116
Day Trips from Kyoto ��������������������������124
Sleeping ���������������������133
WIB
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CH
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Arashiyama& Sagano
NorthwestKyoto
DowntownKyoto
NorthernHigashiyama
SouthernHigashiyama
KyotoStation Area
CentralKyoto
Kitayama Area& North Kyoto
p116
p101p108
p68
p48
p78
p91
p53
(Left) Ponto-chō p56 Spot geisha on this atmospheric street�
(Above) Tea ceremony p173 Take part in an age-old ritual�
(Right) Nishiki Market p55 See an amazing array of local delicacies�
Top ItinerariesDay OneSouthern Higashiyama (p78)
M Start your Kyoto experience by head-ing to the city’s most important (and
popular) sightseeing district: Southern Hi-gashiyama. This area contains the thickest concentration of worthwhile sights in Kyoto.
Northern Higashiyama (p91)
R If you have the energy after lunch, continue heading north along the
base of the Higashiyama mountains. Start at Nanzen-ji and follow the Path of Philoso-phy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) all the way to Ginkaku-ji, stopping at Hōnen-in along the way.
Downtown Kyoto (p53)
N After dinner, head back to your lodgings (which may very well be
located in Downtown Kyoto). You’ll probably be pretty walked out if you’ve done both Southern and Northern Higashiyama in one day, so a short amble around the streets of Downtown Kyoto will probably be sufficient to round out this day.
Day TwoArashiyama & Sagano (p108)
M After exploring the Higashiyama area, you’ll want to head west to the
Arashiyama and Sagano district, which has a dense concentration of first-rate sights. Start at Tenryū-ji and work your way north to Giō-ji or Adashino Nembutsu-ji.
Northwest Kyoto (p101)
R It makes sense to stay on the west side of town in the afternoon of this
day. Take a taxi from the end of the morn-ing’s route to Kinkaku-ji and/or Ryōan-ji. If you still have energy to burn, you can check out Myōshin-ji late in the afternoon.
Downtown Kyoto (p53)
N This is a pretty big day, with a fair bit of transport, so you probably
won’t feel like doing too much walking on this evening. We recommend some strolling around Downtown Kyoto. The atmospheric lane of Ponto-chō is a great place to wan-der, as is Kiyamachi-dōri, particularly the stretch between Shijō-dōri and Gojō-dōri.
Dinner Omen (p99); brilliant udon and more within minutes of Ginkaku-ji.
Lunch Sobadokoro Shibazaki (p87); fill-ing noodles and a lacquerware gallery.
Dinner Delicious eel in retro surround-ings at Kyōgoku Kane-yo (p60).
Lunch Buddhist vegetarian fare at Shigetsu (p115).
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd16
Day ThreeSoutheast Kyoto (p75)
M You’ll probably be feeling like a break from the crowds about now.
For this reason we suggest heading to Southeast Kyoto. Here, you’ll find two ab-solutely stunning attractions: Tōfuku-ji (don’t forget to enter the Hōjō Garden) and Fushimi Inari-Taisha, Kyoto’s mind-blowing Shintō sanctuary.
Downtown Kyoto (p53)
R After exploring Southeast Kyoto in the morning and eating lunch
downtown, it makes sense to spend the afternoon exploring Downtown Kyoto and perhaps doing some shopping. Be sure to take a pass through the wonderful Nishi-ki Market, then visit one of the awesome depachika (department store food floors) at nearby Daimaru or Takashimaya department stores. Then, walk through the Teramachi Shopping Arcade. When the covered section runs out, keep following Teramachi as far as Marutamachi-dōri
(the last few blocks contain some of Kyoto’s best traditional shops).
Gion (p82)
N This day involves less walking than the preceding two, so it’s ideal for
Day FourKitayama Area (p116)
M Today’s the day to step off the beaten track and immerse yourself
in some greenery. Heading north into the Kitayama (Northern Mountains) is the per-fect way to relax after three days of urban sightseeing. Heading to Kurama and hiking over the hill and down to Kibune is our favourite day trip out of the city. Other options include Ōhara or Takao.
Central Kyoto (p68)
R If you spend the morning in the Ki-tayama, you will probably return to
Kyoto city in the early afternoon. If this is your last day in the city, you might want to spend the remainder of the day shopping for souvenirs in Downtown Kyoto. But, if you still have the energy for sightseeing, you might consider visiting the enclosed Zen world of Daitoku-ji. Other options
include Nijō-jō or a stroll in the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park.
Downtown Kyoto or Gion (p82)
N If you haven’t done it yet, take a stroll through the Gion district and
consider a stop in Bar Main Higashiy-ama. If you have, consider instead a stroll
Dinner Sublime tempura at Yoshikawa (p62).
Lunch Sushi at Tsukiji Sushisei (p60) downtown after the morning’s touring.
Dinner Try kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) at Kiyamachi Sakuragawa (62).
Lunch Noodles by the temple steps at Yōshūji (p123) in Kurama.
Ponto-chō (p56)
WIB
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17PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
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Sleeping
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Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Kyoto Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd206
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214
sOUTH
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ASOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA æ Top Sights (p80) 32 Gael Irish Pub.............................................. B2 1 Chion-in........................................................D2 33 Gion Finlandia Bar ..................................... B3 2 Gion...............................................................D3 34 Pig & Whistle................................................B1 3 Kiyomizu-dera.............................................D5 Tōzan Bar .......................................... (see 49)
æ Sights (p82) ý Entertainment (p88) 4 Kawai Kanjirō Memorial Hall .....................B5 35 Gion Corner................................................. B3 5 Kennin-ji .......................................................B3 36 Gion Odori ...................................................C2 6 Kōdai-ji .........................................................D3 37 Kyō Odori..................................................... A4 7 Kyoto National Museum ............................B6 38 Kyoto Cuisine & Maiko 8 Maruyama-kōen..........................................D2 Evening .....................................................C3 9 Ninen-zaka & Sannen-zaka .......................D4 39 Minami-za.................................................... B3 10 Rokuharamitsu-ji ........................................B4 Miyako Odori..................................... (see 35) 11 Sanjūsangen-dō Temple............................B7
12 Shōren-in ..................................................... D1 þ Shopping (p90) 13 Yasaka-jinja .................................................C3 40 Kagoshin.......................................................C1 14 Yasui Konpira-gū ........................................B4 41 Kyoto Sanjō Takematsu.............................B1 42 Tessai-dō.....................................................C3 ú Eating (p86)
15 Bamboo........................................................ C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p90) 16 Café 3032 ....................................................C4 43 Camellia Tea Experience...........................D4 17 Gion Karyō ...................................................B3 44 En.................................................................. C2 18 Hisago...........................................................C4 45 Maika............................................................ A3 19 Issen Yōshoku .............................................B2
20 Kagizen Yoshifusa ......................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p139) 21 Kasagi-ya .....................................................D4 46 Gion Apartments........................................ B5 22 Kikunoi..........................................................D3 Gion Hatanaka .................................. (see 38) 23 Omen Kodai-ji..............................................D4 47 Gion House.................................................. B3 24 Oshokujidokoro Asuka............................... D1 48 Gojō Guest House ...................................... B5 25 Rakushō .......................................................C3 49 Hyatt Regency Kyoto................................. B7 26 Rāmen Santōka........................................... B1 50 JAM Hostel Kyoto Gion.............................. B2 27 Ryūmon........................................................ C1 51 Kyoto Yoshimizu......................................... D2 28 Senmonten ..................................................B2 52 Motonago ....................................................C3 29 Sobadokoro Shibazaki...............................C5 53 Ryokan Uemura .........................................C4 30 Yagura ..........................................................B2 54 Sakara Kyoto................................................C1 55 Seikōrō......................................................... A5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p88) 56 Shiraume Ryokan....................................... B2 31 Bar Main Higashiyama...............................C4
215
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NO
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ErN
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ANORTHERN HIGASHIYAMA Map on p216
æ Top Sights (p93) 28 Okutan ......................................................... F6 1 Ginkaku-ji .....................................................G2 29 Omen.............................................................F2 2 Nanzen-ji ......................................................F6 30 Shinshindō Notre Pain Quotidien..............C1 31 Torito............................................................ A4 æ Sights (p95) 32 Zac Baran ....................................................C4 3 Eikan-dō ....................................................... F5
4 Heian-jingū...................................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p100) 5 Hōnen-in.......................................................G3 33 Kick Up..........................................................E7 6 Konchi-in...................................................... E7 34 Metro............................................................ A5 7 Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art...............D6
8 Miyako Messe & Fureai-Kan Kyoto ý Entertainment (p100) Museum of Traditional Crafts................C6 35 Kyoto Kanze Kaikan Nō Theatre ..............C6 9 Murin-an.......................................................E6
10 Nanzen-in..................................................... F7 þ Shopping (p100) 11 Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in ...................................G7 36 Chion-ji Tezukuri-ichi..................................C1 12 National Museum of Modern Art..............C6 37 Kyoto Handicraft Center...........................C5 13 Nomura Museum........................................ F6 38 Tōzandō....................................................... C5 14 Okazaki-kōen Area .....................................D6
15 Path of Philosophy ÿ Sleeping (p141) (Tetsugaku-no-Michi)..............................G2 39 Koto Inn ....................................................... C7 16 Reikan-ji ...................................................... G4 40 Kyoto Garden Ryokan Yachiyo................. E6 17 Tenju-an .......................................................F6 41 Westin Miyako Kyoto..................................E7
ú Eating (p98) ï Information (p182) 18 Au Temps Perdu .........................................C6 42 French Consulate....................................... C2 19 Café de 505 .................................................C6 43 Kyoto International Community 20 Earth Kitchen Company.............................A4 House........................................................ E6 21 Falafel Garden ............................................. A1 44 Kyoto University Hospital .........................B4 22 Goya..............................................................C6
23 Hinode Udon................................................ F5 ï Transport (p181) 24 Hyōtei ...........................................................D6 45 Toyota Rentacar Hyakumamben 25 Karako ..........................................................B6 Branch .......................................................C1 26 Kiraku ...........................................................D7
27 Okariba.........................................................E5
218
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223
Chris RowthornChris Rowthorn has been based in Kyoto since 1992. He became a regional correspondent for The Japan Times in 1995 and joined Lonely Planet in 1996. He’s worked on Lonely Planet’s Japan, Kyoto, Hiking in Japan and Tokyo guide-books. He speaks and reads Japanese fluently and has appeared on local TV to introduce secret temples in Kyoto. Chris’s wife is from Kyoto’s Arashiyama dis-trict and his two children are proudly multicultural. Chris runs Chris Rowthorn
Tours (www.chrisrowthorn.com), which offers private tours and consulting about Kyoto and the rest of Japan. He also curates www.insidekyoto.com, his personal blog about the city of Kyoto.
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Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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