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Alterative Preservation range


Alernative Preservation & MultifunctionalsPreservatives are under constant scrutiny by consumers and the cosmetics industry with many usage restrictions and bans now in place. The more traditional preservative systems such as Parabens and MIT/ MIC have been subjected to much negative publicity, making the drive towards alternative preservation more prevalent than ever.

This is why Infinity Ingredients are proud to have Dr. Straetmans, one of the market leaders within this category with more than 20 years experience, as their partner within the UK.

Dr. Straetmans Dermosoft® products can be used to support, boost or replace traditional preservative systems. To prove the efficacy of these products Dr. Straetmans offers a microbiological service as part of their customer service to enable cosmetic formulators to make the best choice for successful preservation.

The Dermosoft® range offers more than just preservation; some have selected activity against specific micro organisms that can cause skin disorders such as dandruff, Athlete’s foot, acne and body odour.

Please find detailed below the offerings we at Infinity Ingredients have for this category.


Alternative PreservationLet’s look at the organic acids first: these ingredients are able to destroy germs by the continuous acidification of cell cytoplasm, increasing the osmotic pressure due to intake of electrolytes (e.g. Na+) and by the loss of energy in the active transport mechanism within the membrane.By dissolving the organic acid in water, it dissociates and loses its H+ proton. It is important we keep the pH low (we need the protonated acid, not the anion to penetrate the bacteria’s cell wall) when using organic acids, ideally at a pH between 5.0 – 5.5 for optimum performance. Once the protonated acid enters the bacteria’s cell wall it then deprotonates and reduces the pH inside the cell. The cell compensates by expelling protons in exchange for Sodium ions, more unprotonated acid then enters the cell, and ultimately this cycle kills the microorganism.

Dermorganics® 1388 (INCI: Glycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Sodium Anisate). This product’s active principle is a blend of compounds found in many plants in nature. In combination with plant derived organic certified glycerol contained in this skin friendly mixture a moisturising effect can be created. The delicate scent of Dermorganics® 1388 will help to mask undesired odours of raw materials but will usually not interfere with other fragrance. The gently acidic ingredients will improve the natural acidic environment of the skin. Finally, the outstanding antimicrobial activity of Dermorganics® 1388 can convert most cosmetic formulations in self-preserving products with no further need for traditional preservatives.Recommended use level: 2 – 4%

Dermosoft® 688 (INCI: p-Anisic acid) from anise seed or fennel. Supplied as a powder and as such needs to be dissolved in water (N.B. high levels can result in crystallisation). For emulsions, heat to 80°C until clear (increasing the pH to 7 helps quickens the process). For surfactant formulations it is very easy to disperse (add to surfactant phase). Excellent performance against moulds and recommended for emulsions and rinse-off products. Recommended use level: 0.05 – 0.2% (dependant on pH – if <pH 5 use 0.05%, if > pH 5.4 use 0.3%). pH range 4.0 – 6.5 (optimum 4.5 – 5.5) Demosoft® 688 ECO is available for natural cosmetics.For broad spectrum we recommend using in combination with:

Dermosoft® 700 B (INCI: Parfum or Levulinic acid; Sodium Levulinate; Glycerin; Aqua) from sugar cane. Supplied as a liquid and ideal for emulsions and rinse-off products. Due to its excellent bactericidal activity, we recommend using 700B in combination with 688, which has excellent

activity against moulds, for broad spectrum activity. Also available as an organically certified grade - Dermorganics® 700 B.Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1% in a pH range of 3 – 6 (optimum 4.5 – 5.5). Suitable for natural cosmetics.

But which ones the best and which is the easiest to use? We recommend…

Dermosoft® 1388 (INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate) a natural alternative preservative (suitable for oral care) supplied as a ready to use liquid blend of two organic acids – Dermosoft® 688 (p-anisic) and 700 B (Levulinic acid). This clear, colourless, ready to use liquid is ideal for toiletries; product claims include skin pH regulating and skin conditioning. Recommended use level: 2 – 4% (if <pH 5 use 2%, if > pH 5.5 use 4%) at a pH of 3.0 – 6.5 (optimum pH 4.5 – 5.5). Dermosoft® 1388 (ECO) is available for organic/ natural cosmetic applications.

Dermosoft® anisate / Dermosoft® anisate eco(INCI: Sodium Anisate) is a completely water soluble salt of p-anisic acid which can be added directly to the cold water-phase before heating. The fungicidal activity of Dermosoft® anisate can be used in combination with other Dermosoft® products (multi-functional ingredients with microbial activity) to develop cosmetic products with no further need for traditional preservatives. Ecocert listed and 100% natural.Recommended use level: 0.05 - 0.3%


Dermosoft® Hexiol (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol) is a liquid and water soluble multifunctional booster for organic acids that is derived from petrochemicals. Supplied as a liquid it is ideal for tonics, rinse-off applications and emulsions (particularly W/O) as it has no influence on viscosity. pH independent.Recommended usage level: 2 – 3%

Dermosoft® OM (INCI: Methylpropandiol, Caprylyl Glycol) is an alternative preservative to Phenoxyethanol. Can be used in combination with organic acids (Dermosoft® 688/ Anisate). Ability to claim fragrance-free and preservative-free. Ideal for emulsions, rinse-off applications and tonics.Recommended usage level: 2 – 4%

Verstatil® MPC (INCI: Methylpropanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol) is an economical, safe and reliable preservative system containing a low level of Phenoxyethanol. pH independent and suitable for all product concepts.Recommended usage level: 1 – 3%

Verstatil® Synacid (INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Salicylate, Sodium Anisate). A powerful blend of organic acids with broad antimicrobial activity and performance against standard germs and in-house microorganisms. Ideal for rinse-off products, tonics, emulsions and wipes. When used in emulsions and wipes we recommend using Synacid in combination with Dermosoft® GMCY or Octiol. Verstatil® Synacid can easily be added to the water phase in emulsions or at any stage of manufacture in rinse-off applications. pH restriction 4 – 6. Suitable for children < 3 years old in rinse-off products only. Recommended usage level: 2 – 3% (max. 5% due to Salicylic acid)


SurfactantsSmall amphiphilic molecules that replace membrane lipids. Due to their high surface activity and incompatible size they work by destabilising the membrane from the outside. The active compound is not consumed and as such remains active in the formulation and therefore offers a long lasting mode of action.

Dermosoft® 250 (INCI: Phenylpropanol) provides a fragrance component with impressive preserving boosting capacities especially against fungi. Even at low concentrations, it is pH independent and is a valuable partner for a broad variety of antimicrobials.Recommended use level: 0.05 – 0.2%

Dermosoft® GMCY (INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate) derived from Coconut and Palm oil, GMCY is a basic component for alternative preservation. Recommended inclusion level is 0.3 – 1%. However, we recommend 0.3% in combination with 1388 (or 688 and 700 B) at a pH of 4.5 – 7.0. GMCY at 1% is sufficient to preserve on its own, however at this high level it can affect emulsion stability and as such, is not recommended. Can have a positive effect on pigment dispersion so is good for sun care (TiO2) and BB/ CC creams.Recommended use level: 0.3 – 1%

Dermosoft® GMC (INCI: Glyceryl Caprate) gives excellent activity against gram+ bacteria) so is ideal for use in natural deodorant formulations and also shows good performance in W/O emulsions.Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%

Dermosoft® Octiol (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol) is a multifunctional additive which can be used as a viscosity regulating and wetting agent. Its compatibility with many cosmetic ingredients and its pH-independent broad efficacy against germs allow for the use in rinse-off-products and emulsions.Recommended use level: 0.3 – 1%

For conventional products Dermosoft® LP and Dermosoft® OMP (synergistic blends) are recommended.

Dermosoft® LP (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycerin, Phenylpropanol) is a clear, colourless liquid with a broad efficacy activity against gram negative and positive bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Caution: can cause a decrease in the viscosity of emulsions. Recommended user level: 0.8 – 1.5% for O/W emulsions and colour cosmetics. pH restrictions apply (4.5 – 7.0).

Dermosoft® OMP (INCI: Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol) is again a clear, colourless liquid, which is an ideal replacement for Parabens as it can provide superior preservation at 3% relative to 1% Phenonip (ask for our detailed challenge test study Vs. Phenonip). OMP can lack preservation (especially with formulations containing Aloe Vera, emulsifiers such as Montanov 68, Lecithin and very polar oils typical of sun care formulations will all inhibit the performance) against the yeast, A. Niger, if this happens, increase usage level from 3% to 3.5%. Recommended usage level: 2.5 – 4.0% for O/W emulsions, aqueous products and wet wipes. No pH restrictions apply. Potential to claim ‘preservative-free’.


VERSTATIL® RangeEconomical preservative range for ‘free from’ products. Three easy to use liquids are offered as part of this range:

Verstatil® BOB(INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzoic Acid). Easy-to-use and globally approved liquid blend for all cosmetic products, pH 3-8. An excellent alternative to phenoxyethanol, parabens and MIT/MIC. Recommended use level: 0.8 - 2%.

Verstatil® BL non-GMO (INCI: Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Benzoate). An easy to use and globally approved mild acid based system for natural, rinse-off formulations and tonics. Effective for pH 4.5 - 5.5. Paraben, phenoxyethanol and MIT/MIC free. Recommended use level: 1.5 – 2.5%.

Verstatil® BP (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid). Paraben-free and colour-stable alternative to BPD-Blend. Ideal for rinse-off and leave-on applications. Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1.0% at a pH of 4.0 -6.0.

Vertstatil® MBO (INCI: Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzoic Acid) Tailor-made raw material blend for the efficient preservation of wet wipes. Liquid, easy to use blend for the economic formulation of wet wipe solutions. For application in emulsion or water based products. Recommended inclusion level: 0.8 – 1.2%

Verstatil® PC (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol). Paraben-free and economical blend for emulsions. Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%. No pH restrictions.

Verstatil® SL non-GMO(INCI: Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate) is ideal for natural rinse-off formulations, wet wipes and emulsions in combination with GMCY, Octiol.

Recommended use level: 1.5 – 2.0%. Optimum pH range is 4.0 6.0.

Verstatil® TBG (INCI: Triethyl Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid). An innovative solvent system for emulsions, gels and tonics that is easy to use and globally approved. Effective for pH 4 - 6. Paraben, phenoxyethanol and MIT/MIC free. Recommended use level: 1.0 – 1.5%.

Verstatil® TBO (INCI: Triethyl Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzoic Acid). An innovative solvent system for emulsions, gels and tonics that is easy to use and globally approved. Effective for pH 4 - 7 and an excellent alternative to phenoxyethanol, parabens and MIT/MIC. Recommended use level: 1.0 – 1.5%.


Antimicrobial AdditivesCanadian Willowherb™ (INCI: Water (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) is an edible (used in tea bags) multi-functional active ingredient that contains bioactive molecules such as Oenothein B which has 5-α-reductase inhibitory activity, anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Its primary function is as a non-steroidal anti-irritant ingredient. In vitro experiments have demonstrated free radical scavenging ability. In addition, Canadian Willowherb™ shows strong anti-bacterial activity on P. acnes. Its anti-irritant and redness reduction properties have been clinically demonstrated, showing a strong reduction of skin redness induced by chemicals or UV exposure within 30 minutes of use. Ideal for anti-acne, redness, anti-ageing, intimate care, oral care (anti-irritant/ bleeding gums), sun care (reduces UV-induced erythema) and baby care (nappy rash). Recommended use level: 1 - 3%

Dermosoft® DGMC (INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate) is a co-emulsifier that can be used as a deo active ingredient due to its activity against gram-positive bacteria’s.Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%

Dermosoft® MCA Variante (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dipropylene Glycol) is a blend with excellent, broad spectrum antimicrobial properties for perfume-free and fragrance-free product concepts. Easy handling with low use concentration. Recommended use level is: 0.5% – 1.0%.

Dermosoft® Decalact Award winning (BSB Innovation Prize), In-Cosmetics 2012. Multi-functional active ingredient that provides anti-microbial properties for both your product and skin. Recommended use level: leave-on (0.5 – 1%) and rinse-off (1 – 2%) applications.

Dermosoft® Decalact (INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate). A natural and effective active (from sugar beet) against gram positive bacteria and yeasts with efficacy against Melassezia Furfur (dandruff), Trichophyton (athletes foot), Candida

Albicans (thrush) and P.acnes (acne). For dandruff applications the optimum pH is 5.5, which is lower than the more traditionally used Octypirox (pH 7). The optimum pH for a healthy scalp is 5.5. Upon testing, Decalact was found to outperform Climbazole and Triclosan in treatments for Athletes Foot and performs similar to Lamisil. Decalact is also effective in nail care. In thrush treatments, Decalact was found to immediately reduce Candida Albicans. For acne, Decalact was found to perform comparably to 0.5% Salicylic Acid. There are no usage restrictions for Decalact. Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1% (leave-on) and 1 – 2% (rinse-off).

Three versions exist:

Dermosoft® Decalact (INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate) is a natural agent with antimicrobial properties. Highly effective against microorganisms causing skin disorders like acne and athletes foot. Natural and mild replacement for Triclosan and Climbazole.

Decalact Liquid (INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethylcitrate). Easy to handle and use.

Decalact Deo (INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethylcitrate; Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil). For natural 24h deodorants where at 0.5% Decalact Deo was found to outperform synthetic deodorant actives.

Dermofeel® Phenon 90 M-B (INCI: Camelia Sinensis Extract) is a standardised Green Tea extract with a Polyphenol content of more than 80%. Polyphenols have an antimicrobial efficacy and are a natural deodorant.Recommended use level: 0.1 – 0.3%


Drieline® (INCI: Sorbitol (and) Yeast Extract) is a highly purified Yeast Polysaccharide extracted from Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This Yeast, used in a multitude of common fermentation processes (beer, alcohol, bread) reinforces the natural skin defence system as well as cell renewal. The Polysaccharide is obtained by an eco-friendly manufacturing process. Ideal for anti-ageing and anti-microbial applications as well as the protection of Langerhan cells which are not protected by Melanin. Recommended use level: 0.5 - 2%

ENNACOMPLEX 264 (INCI: Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract) is a botanical complex for the care of oily/greasy skin with blemish problems. A blend of extracts of Burdock root, Sage leaf, Watercress leaf, Lemon fruit, Soapwort herb and Ivy leaf, ENNACOMPLEX 264 can help tighten pores, regulate sebum production, and alleviate bacterial proliferation on the skin.Recommended use level: 1 - 10%

HydroSal™ Natural Antiseptic (Water, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Origamum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylancum Bark Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal) Root Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract). HydroSal™ Natural Antiseptic is an encapsulation delivery system of natural oils known to have potent anti-fungal and antiseptic properties. It is an effective and natural solution to achieving long-lasting protection from microorganisms that may cause infections such as food poisoning, skin, nail and mucous membrane infections, diaper rash, as well as wound, vaginal and gastrointestinal infections. HydroSal™ Natural Antiseptic is suitable for a variety of personal care applications, such as hand sanitisers, wipes, and cleansers. It is also ideal for household and industrial applications, including surface cleaners, treatments, and sprays. Recommended use level: 9.1%

INKA KRAMERIA (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Krameria Triandra

Root) is a natural, preservative-free and organic certifiable ingredient that provides astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. The plant of Krameria tiandra also offers anti-bacterial and photo-protective properties and is recommended for protection against UVB radiation.Recommended use level: 1 - 5%

INKA TARA (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit) is a natural ingredient from the Peruvian Andes that has been used in several ways since the pre-Hispanic period (preparation of dyes, anti-inflammatory, healing, anti-bacterial etc.). In cosmetics, INKA TARA protects the skin from free radicals that contribute to accumulated skin damage and collagen degradation from extrinsic factors such as UV radiation.Recommended use level: 1 - 5%

Phenethylalcohol nat. (INCI: Phenethyl Alcohol) is a naturally derived water soluble masking agent with a rose-like scent and good antimicrobial activity. Easy to handle. Optimum pH < 5.5. Dermosoft® PEA is available as a more cost effective and non-natural version.Recommended use level: 0.7– 1.2%

Symbio®muls GC (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate) consists of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Caprylate, supplied in a small pellet format for convenience and easy dosage. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a well-known and powerful anionic emulsifier. Cetearyl Alcohol is widely used as a co-emulsifier and consistency enhancer. Glyceryl Caprylate can be found in many formulations and is used for its wetting properties and antimicrobial effectiveness. This product also provides a number of surprising additional technical advantages, including better dispersibility at lower temperatures and quick formation of homogenous and fine dispersions at temperatures of 40°C and above. All components are produced from sustainable materials and the blend is in accordance with all relevant natural cosmetic standards. On top of its excellent emulsifying properties, Symbio®muls GC provides a basic antimicrobial effect,that enables you to lower the amount of preservatives. In many cases, the additional use of Dermosoft® products offers possibilities to formulate without traditional preservatives.Recommended use level: 3 – 6%

Interested? Then please call one of our team for more information...

Andrew GoodwinManaging Director

T: 01344 397 768 M: 07969 078 557E: [email protected]

Clare GoodwinTechnical Sales Director

T: 01344 397 768 M: 07899 662 727E: [email protected]: infinity-ingredients.co.uk

alterative preservation range - infinity-ingredients.co.uk · ... is a completely water soluble...

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