american woodworker - 101 (july 2003)

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Page 1: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)
Page 2: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

#10I ,Ju ly 2003

Basic HVLPSprayTechniqul"jfil,'H:T:fjji" 28spraying finishes.

TV Cabinet 40Clever design details in a cabinet thatcan showcase (or hide!) your 36-in. TV.

Staining Pine 52Work magic on economical pinewith this step-by-step method.

HVLPTurbine Sprayers 56We chose the best sprayers for lessthan $600. See what features matter.

3-Year Index 69Three years of. American Woodworker,sorted and grouped for your reference.

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Page 3: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

ContentsDEPARTMENTS

10 Question &Answer

16 WorkshopTips

22 The Well.Equipped Shop

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Subscriptions:American Woodworker Subscriber Service Dept., PO Box 8148, Red Oak, IA 51591-tl4g, (900) 666-31lfe-mail: [email protected]

Artide Index A complete index is available online at wwwamericanwoodworker.com

Copies of Past Aftides: photocopies are available for $3 each. Write or call: American Woodworker Reprint Center, pO Box g3695,Stillwater, MN 55083-0695, (715) 246-4344,8 AM to 5 PM CST, Mon. through Fri. Visa, MasterCari and f)iscover accepted.Bad< lssuesi Some are available for $5 each. Order from the Reprint Center at the address above.

!9mme,$-31-uggotiolti Write to us at: AmericanWoodworker,2gI5 Commers Dr., Suire 700, Eagan, MN 55121Phone: (651)454-9200 Fax (651)994-2250 e-mail: [email protected]

A r n c r i c a n \ \ / o o c l w < t r k c r J U L Y 2 O O 3

Page 4: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Works cpoilgh

For complete delails and an outlet near you:

www.tooldock.com0r call toll{ree: 1-866-866-5362

The Modular Workshop

@2003 Waterloo Industries, Inc. Tool DockrM is a trademark of Waterloo lndustries, Inc. Tools not included.

BrsakthrInEnclnn$able wonHol desi$n le$ y0u cu$0miru younshol lon fie type ol ulonl you'll[e d0in0.. Mount tools onto quick-change inserts. When you're

ready to work, place the mounted tool you need in theworkstation top and lock it down.

o Accessories are within easy reach with built-indrawers, shelves, blade and bit holders and more.

o Add on Tool Dock units as your workshop grows.

Il0Ett

TheCutting

tdgef inally, a saw you can depend on with a nameI vou can trust. Our new MM series bandsawsfeature huge resaw capacities, loads of cast iron,and perhaps most important ly. . . a company thatw i l l s tand beh ind i t ! Ca l l one o f our cus tomerrepresentatives today and discover how our cuttingedge bandsaws can improve your woodworking.

?%i,4i2//er76,42012 Centimeter Circle Austin. TX 78758

866-WRK-WOOD(toll free 866-97 5-9663)www.minimax-usa.com

Yio"o-o,lln,W

Subseription Questions? See page 5

EDITOR Ken Col l ierSENIOR EDITOR Tom CasparASSOCIATE EDITORS Randy Johnson, Iim Johnson,Dave MunkittrickC0NTRIBUTING EDITOR George Vondr iskaART DIRECTORS Patrick Hunter, VeIn JohnsonCOPY EDITOR Mary FlanaganFACT CHECKING SPECIALIST Nina Chi lds JohnsonPRODUCTION MANAGER Judy Rodriguez

V I C E P R E S I D E N T A N D G E N E R A L M A N A G E R ,

U . S . P U B L I S H I N G G R O U P B o n n i e B a c h a r

PU BLISH ER Jim Schiekofer

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Rick Stralace

BUSINESS MANAGER MiKC FIANI iNO

PROM0TI0N MANAGER Andrea Vecchio

PROMOTION COORDINATOR JOANNC NO6

MARKETING COORDINATOR Der r ick Ph i l l i p

ADVERTIS I NG COORDI NAT0R Susan Bordonaro

ADVERTISING SALES

260 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016; 212-850-7226

CHICAGO Carl Benson (312) 540-4802,

Jim Ford (312) 540-4804, Tom Vorel (312) 540-4805

Sherry Mallit (sales assistan0 (312) 540-4824

WEST COAST Bonnie Oda (€06) 282-4OO2

NEW YORK David Clutter (212) 850-7124,

John 0'Donnell (21 2) 850-701 I,

Tuck Sifers (212) 850-7197, Ed Silhan (212) 850-7041

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING The McNeil l Group, lnc.Classified Manager, Jason Mailliard,(215) 32t-9652, ext.21

PUBLISHED BY HOME SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, INC. ,a subsidiary of the Reade/s Digest Association, Inc.

EDITOR IN CHIEF KCN COI I iCT

OFFICE ADMINISTRATIVE MANAGER AI iCE GATTETI

TECHNICAL MANAGER Shannon Hooge

PRODUCTION ARTIST Lisa Pahl Knecht

READER SERVICE SPECIALIST Rox ie F i l ipkowsk i

ADM I N ISTRATIVE ASS ISTANTS LOri CAII iStET,Shelly Jacobsen

CHAIRMAN, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICERThomas 0. Rydel

WORLDWIDE CI RCULATION DI RECTORJohn KlingelV ICE PRESIDENT, EXECUTIVE PUBLISHERDom RossiV ICE PRESIDENT/CFO NORTH AMERICANMAGAZINES AND BOOKS &HOME ENTERTAINMENT Stephen S imon

D I R E C T O R , U . S . A D V E R T I S I N G R E S E A R C HBritta WareV I C E P R E S I D E N T A N D C I R C U L A T I O N D I R E C T O RU.S. MAGAZINE GROUP Dawn Z ie r

VICE PRESI DENT, CI RCULATION/OPERATIONSRenee JordanMAGAZI N E OPERATIONS DIRECTORCathel ine Merol leCIRCULATION MARKETING DIRECTOR Lou Sassano

lssue #101. American Woodworker@, ISSN 1074-9152,USPS 738-7 10 Published bimonthly, except monthly October andNovember by Home Service Publications, Inc., 260 MadisonAvenue, 5th Floor, New York, NY 10016. Periodicals postage paidat New York, NY and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Sendchange of address notice to American Woodworker@, P0 Box 8148,Red Oak, lA 51 591-1 148. Subscript ion rates: U.S. one-year,$24.98. Single-copy, $4.99. Canada one-year, $29.98 (U.S.Funds).GST # R122988611. Foreign surface one-year, $29.98 (U.S.Funds). U.S. newsstand distr ibution by Hearst Distr ibution Group,New York, NY 10019. ln Canada: Postage paid at Gateway, Missis-sauga, Ontario; CPM# 1447856. Send returns and address changesto American Woodworker@, PO Box 8148, Red Oak, lA, USA51591-1148. Printed in USA. O 2003 Home Service Publications,Inc. All rights reserued.

Reader's Digest may share information about you with reputablecompanies in order for them to offer you products and services of

interest to you. lf you would rather we not share informataon, please

write to us at: Reader's Digest Association, American Woodworker,

Customer Serv ice Department , P0 Box 8 i48, Red Oak, lA 51591.Please inc lude a copy of your address label .

Page 5: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Edited uy Jan Carf

Stripping 0ptions

working removers.If you want to do some exPeri-

menting, stripPer may not be Youronly answer. Many old finishes

will literally melt away with alcohol

or lacquer thinner. Alcohol dissolves

shellac, and lacquer thinner removes most

old lacquer. Furniture refinishers might

also be effective. The problem is that one

might be more effective than another on a

given finish, since their chemical compo-

srtlon varles.

Pour some of the solvent or stripper

into a dish.Wipe it over small sec-

tions of your piece with steel

wool (0 or 00 works well) or

a synthetic abrasive Pad ifyou wil l be finishing thetable with a waterborneproduct. Scrub away,keeping your workarea wet by redip-ping the pad.A gar-dener's spraybottleis a handy applicator,especially for verticalsurfaces.

After the f in ishbegins to break down,wipe away the slurrYwith paper towels ora rag. Repeat th isprocess un t i l yourpiece has an even, consis-tent appearance. DamP rags

tossed in a pile are a fire hazard,so hang them

outside to drybefore you throw them away.

10 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Oue$lon&Anwer

Q. My grandmother gave me her favorite table, but its top is a mess' ls there an

easier way to strip off the old finish than using a messy paint remover?

A. For surefire success, go straight to aliquid stripper. It will quickly cut

through any clear finish and take less time and create less mess than

semi-paste strippers. Look for one with methylene

chloride, the active ingredient in the fastest

@-F

organic vapor cartridge.

Caution: Work in a well-ventilatedarea. Outdoors is bestWear gloves,

goggles and a respirator with an

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Page 6: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Quest ion & Answer

Better Brush GleaningQ. I bought an expensive natural-bristle brush for var-

nishing, but I cant seem to get it completely clean.The bris-

tles are stiff after the brush dries.What can I do?

A. Pros clean their brushes in stages, often with special

solvents and conditioners. This technique will keep your

brush soft for years.

Along with mineral spirits or paint thinner, you ll use a

solvent called "brush cleaner" ($8 per qt.) or lacquer thin-

ner ($4 per qt.). You ll also use "brush conditioner" ($7 per

6-oz.tube). Ordinary mineral oil works as well ($+ for t0

oz.). Finally, you ll need a special brush comb ($8). All are

available at paint stores, or see Sources, page92.

Rinse your brush in mineral spirits until most traces of varnish aregone. Pour the mineral spirits back into the original container.Youcan reuse it several times, because the varnish solids will sink tothe bottom. Dry the bristles thoroughly with a rag.

Repeat the same process with brush cleaner or lacquerthinner. Comb the brush to straighten the bristles and removeall varnish residue. Let the brush soak for l5 to 20 minutes, if

time permits.

Vigorously clean the brush with dishwashing liquid and hotwater. Go through at least four to five wash cycles.Turn thebrush upward each time so water runs directly into the,bristles. Comb the brush when you're done.

Wipe the brush dry with a lint-free rag and apply a small dab of

brush conditioner or mineral oil.Work it in,then straighten thebristles once more with the comb.Wrap the brush in its originalcontainer and hang it to dry.

t 2 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r . t u L v 2 o o 3

Page 7: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

swer

Sticky Drawer SlidesQ. t built a set of kitchen drawers with ball bearing slides l0 years ago.Today,some of the drawers are sticking. Can I relubricate the slidesl

A. Yes you can, with white lithium grease from an auto parts store.' Assuming you have ruled out mechanical problems (loose screws, overloading,etc.), first clean the slide's ball bearings with a cotton-tryp.d swab. Use a plainhousehold cleaner, such as 409 or Fantastik. Scrub the bearings clean with an oldtoothbrush. When you're done, wipe the slide with a dry rag.

White lithium grease comes in truo convenient forms at auto supply stores.You canbuy a small tube (about $2) or an aerosol can with an applicator (about $4.50).If youuse the tube, dab a little grease on the bearings with a clean cotton-tipped swab and rubit in with your finger. Work the slide back and forth a few times to distribute the grease.

Wipe off any excess grease, and your slide should be good as new.

When Should I Sharpen My Blade?Q. How can I tell when my carbide tablesaw blade needs to be sharpened?

A. There are three signs that a blade is getting dull burning on both sides ofthe cut, more resistance when ripping a board, and worn teeth.

Burning. If your blade consistentlyleaves burn marks on only one side of acut, your fence or spliffer is probably out of alignment. If you see burning

on both sides of the cut, the blade is getting dull.Feed resistance. If it takes a lot of pressure to push a board

through a rip cut, either the wood or blade is to blame. Boards mayspread or close up when cut, binding against the fence or spliuer. Try

testing the feed resistance with plywood instead. Is it the same aswhen the blade was new?

'Worn teeth. Rer4ove pitch buildup with a blade cleaner (see

Sources, page92) and examine the teethwith a magnify-ing glass. A 10X works best, but any magnifier will do. If

any of the corners of the blade have started to wear away, orif you see any rounding over of the tops and sides, the blade

slrouldbe sharpened. Cleaningthe blade can also improveits performance. Pitch build-up wont dull the blade, but

it can affect the quality of your cut.

SOUTeS seehsee2

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L v 2 o o 3 1 3

Page 8: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Quest ion & Answer

Does Polyurethane Need

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Sanding?Q. I've used solvent-based polyurethane for years, and havealways been careful to sand between coats. I have been toldsanding isnt necessary. ls that true?

A. lolyurethanes for floors orwoodwork are oftenformulated so they dont have to be sanded, butpolyurethanes for furniture generally should besanded.

Sanding removes unevenness and dustin a brushed surface. If you want a silky,smooth feel to your finish, you must sandbetween coats no matter what kind of polyyou use.

By abrading the surface, sanding also improves themechanical bond between coats. Sanding scratches effec-

tively increase the surface area, so one coat adheres better to

another. Some kinds of polyurethane don't need to be sanded to

bond well, but only if you re-coat before the finish hardens too much.

The window is usually about 12 hours. If you wait longer, you should

always sand. IW

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Page 9: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

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If you've had a problem with the wood runners on yourtablesaw sled shrinking or swelling, make new runners from1/8 in. x3l4-n.aluminum angle. These runners will fit mostmiter slots and will not shrink or swell like wood.

Here's how I built mine: First I fit the angle to the mitergauge slot in my tablesaw.You may need to file the angle a lirtle to get a good fit. The angle should glide smoothly in themitergauge slotwithoutbinding,with minimum side to side

Pray.Next I cut a saw kerf in the bottom of the sled base. The

kerf makes runner alignment automatic. Turn the sled overand fasten the first angle to the base with a 1/4-in.-thick

1 6 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

spacer.You mayhave to adjust the thickness of this spacer.You

want the angle to ride above the T-slot in the miter gauge. If

your miter gauge slot does not have a T-slot, use a thicker

wood spacer.lust leave a little clearance between the bottom

of the miter slot and the bottom of the angle.Now I set the sled on the tablesawwith the first runner in

a miter slot. t pulled the sled back a bit and put another piece

of angle in the second miter slot, carefully marking the loca-

tion for the saw kerf. I cut the kerf and attached the second

runner.IVe used my sled for years with perfect alignment andsmooth action year round.

IohnRhodes

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Page 10: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Workshop Tips

Drawer Slide Tracing figI recently needed a jig to trace lathe turnings. I tried a variety ofdesigns but none produced the accuracy or ease of operation thatI wanted.

While rummaging around my shop, I discovered an extraset of 10-in. ball bearing drawer slides (see Sources, page 92) Ieftover from another project.I attached a single slide to a bracketand attached a pencil to the slide with a notched wood block andWing Nut. The bracket fits in a dado in the jig's base. The latheturning is held between a couple of sharpened machine screws.The right holder is attached to a T-track with a T-bolt and knobso I can move it for different part lengths. To use the jig I movethe slide in and out against the turning while I slide the bracketleft or right. The pencil does the drawing and I end up with averyaccurate tracing of the part.

Don Posto

Mobile Magnetic LightMy shop has poor light. I've found a magnetic-basework light (see Sources, page92) to be a real godsend onmy bandsaw and drill press. I liked the light so much Ifigured out how to use it an1.r,''rhere in my shop.I broughthome a handful of metal electrical box covers (about 50cents apiece) from my local hardware store. I fastenedone wherever I needed additional lighting, over myworkbench, sharpening station, /ou name it. Now Ican grab my light and stick it any,nrhere I need it.

Steve Jones

Long Tenoning SledHere's a tablesaw-tenoning jig thatcombines the light weight of a mitergauge with the support of a widetablesaw sled.I made this sled for useon the right side of my blade so mysaw's right-side table supports thesled. I also added an auxiliary woodfence to my rip fence to act as a stopguide and to protect the fence frombeing cut by the dado blade. The tog-gle clamp (see Sources, page 92) holdsthe work flat when cutting the faces ofmy workpiece. When I cut the sides ofthe tenon,l just hold the part upagainst the sled's rear fence.

Joyce Hanna

18 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 11: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Workshop T ips

Handy Dandy Graft SticksA $3 box of 1,000 craft sticks is the bestbargain I've found in a long time (seeSources, page 92). I use these small

wooden st icks for everything fromspreading glue to shimming cabinetdoors. They also work great for mixing

stain and dabbing putty.If you want to use a craft stick to stir

your coffee, iust be sure it'.s a fiesh one!

Shannort Hooge

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If you have an original'WorkshopTio, send it to us with a sketch orphoto. If we print it, you'l l get$ 100. Send to: W'orkshop Tips,American Woodworker,2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700,E"g*, MN 55121 or e-mail [email protected] can't be returned andbecome our property upon accep-tance and payment. \We may editsubmissions, and use them in allprint and electronic media.

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o 2-sided replaceablecaftide knives.

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llo fl HnK-30 (solid[---ll surface/SSV;7M0F)

*ensrc toor, 6b-+seoo, Rc-49355)includes bit and one set of RCK-30or AMA-12 kniv'es. "Helaiio ouq'nevr aaialog AM-r-02FF$es {6 &'47 for more details '

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Page 12: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

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l$nk-Free, Lightweight Air HoseDo you ever feel like the conven-ience of using air tools is ounveighedby the rubber air hose python youhave to drag around? Let that snakehibernate and have a look at the newFlexeel polyurethane hoses fromCoilhose. They're lightweight, flexi-ble and easy to coil, but resist kink-ing. They come in cool colors, too.

Coilhose makes Flexeel hoses in arange of diameters and lengths. Thell4n.x21-ft.coil hose costs $18; thestraight hose is $l9,without fittings.

Price-Gutting SawGot $100? That's about all it takes to buy Delta's MS250 compoundmiter saw-a saw that recently sold for as high as $170. Miter saws aregreat for the shop and as fix-stuff-around-the-house tools, and com-pound miter saws provide even more versatility. On a compound sawyou can angle and bevel the blade. This is especially useful wheninstalling crown molding.

With its 10-in. blade, the MS250 will cut through 2x6and 4x4 (nominal) lumber at 90

degrees and at only 28 lb., thismachine is a breeze to movearound.

A 13-amp motor powers theMS250. This will get you throughhardwood, but more expensive

machines have more powerful 15-amp motors.The table angles 47 degrees left and right with

positive stops at0,22-ll2 and 45 degrees. The bladetilts from -3 to 48 degrees. This is an area where theMS250 falls short. Many miter saws offer a greater

span of angles, up to 60 degrees, as well as morepositive stops, though not at this low price.

It's amazing how easy it is to workyour way around a cabinet with theFlexeel hose, and even more amazrngthat it doesn't cost much more thana good-quality rubber hose.A Flex-eel hose weighs less than half of arubber hose and it doesnt mar like arubber hose if you happen to drag itacross your work.

All the Flexeel hoses are trans-parent, so you can watch for problemmoisture or oil migrating from thecompressor to the tool.

22 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Sourc€S for all producs See page 92

Page 13: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Dp$d,,$hpp?.gv-dk

Rock-SolidGoping SledWhen you make doors on therouter table, the tricky part is cop-ingthe end grain of the rails.Youneed a darn good grip on thematerial and a backer boardto prevent blowout. EagleAmerica has you cov-ered on both countswith their new coping sleds.Choose from the Original, $40 orthe Pro model, $60.

The toggle clamp grips your material, and areplaceable guide block of high-density poly-ethylene (HDPE) plastic backs up the cut toeliminate tear-out. With tr,vo stout handles, hold-ing the sled and feeding across the cutter is abreeze. Sure, you could build one of these, butwhen you roll in the price of the toggle clamp andtime spent to do it, these sleds are a great value.

The Pro model has a slightlywider base thanthe Original, and includes a"keeper"on the frontto help hold material against the guide block.Maximum width between the keeper and theguide block is 3-314 in. Both models use a self-adhesive abrasive tape to help keep your work-piece from slipping.

With adequate pressure from the toggle clamp,a sharp bit, and smooth feed rate, the Originalsled works fine, but if you're brand new to doormaking and want a little extra insurance againstrail slippage, you'll get it from the Pro model.

After using the sled once, yott've got a set-upgauge for your next door. fust use the cope pro-file that's been cut into the guide block to set theheight of the bit.

TOGGLECLAMP

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 23

Page 14: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

The Well-Equipped Shop

Space-Saving Gyclone SystemDust collectors with balloon-like filterbags have away of eating up preciousshop space. A new 2-hp cyclonic col-lector from Oneida Air Svstems offers

cartr idge f i l ters instead of bags.Cartridges take up less space and filterbetter than bags. Oneida filters aremade of high-quality filter material

and capture over 99.9 percent of testmaterial between 0.2 and 2 microns.

This new collector comes in twoversions. The one with an internal fil-ter, $882, has a footprint of 24 in. x 24in. The other version, with an externalfilter,$977,has a footprint of 24n.x46in. A 35-gallon drum for collectingchips makes the system 86-in. tall;with a 55-gallon drum, it's 99-in. tall.

The external cartridge is a lot easierto clean than the internal cartridge,which mustbe removed to be cleaned.The efiernal cartridge can be blownfrom the outside. The dust falls into aplastic-bag-lined dust pan, and thebag can be easi ly removed anddumped.

Connected to a typical ductworksystem, these units pull 900 cubic feetper minute, great for a smal l tomedium size shop. The new2-hp unitcan run on 120 or 240volts, but draws20 amps on 120 volts.

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iust won't fly - we have iust the right product foryou - ZAR' UIIRA Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane.ZAR IIITRA provides a beautiful, smooth finish in just2 hours. ZAR's exffemely durable formula makes itideal for high usage areas, such as floors, cabinets,furniture and doors

7AR UnP.i', he fastest way to a beaunful finkh!For o free brochure ond deoler neoresl you, coll |.9A0.272.3235 or visit www.ugl.com

24 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 15: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

The Wel l -Equipped Shop

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National Woodcarving School

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Online Garuing GlassesThere's nothing like hands-on carving instruction with an

expert teacher looking over your shoulder. But if you want

to hone your carving skills using cutting edge technology,

and do it for free, check out www.2carve.com.This Web site offers four free tutorials in chip carving at

the beginner level and I I free tutorials in relief carving at

the beginner and intermediate levels. The tutorials can be

downloaded from the Web site and printed. The instructions

are clear and include good photos, not sketches. However,

it maytake your computer a while to digest the photos. The '

files, although compressed, are big, so it'll take some time

with dial-up connections.A paid membership ($ZS per year) gets you access to a

greater variety of techniques like sharpening and finishing,

as well as many additional carving projects. The member-

ship also includes a CD with the free tutorials, so you

wouldnt have to download them. The free tutorials are a

great way to see if this is a learning style that works for you.

If you like them,you can go on to the paid membership. IW

Top to bottom, side to side, the JET SuperSaw has allthe specitications and features you are looking for in a

*** '**Every part is of

excellent quality andset-up instructions are

i -An Amazon.comi customer from

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Movable power switch lets you change switch placement tosuit your needs

Allcast-iron table, sliding table, and extension wing

Sliding table with large miter gauge with cam:lock clamp down andcomfortable hand grips

Micro adjustable fence with magnified cursor for precise ripping

*IVe will rnatch our competitors price pl*s beat it by 10% of the diference.Find out more at wuu.ArnAmn,com/price-rnatch.

Page 16: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)
Page 17: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

TECHNIOUESHow to succeed at sprrying

owaterborne finishhen it comes to finishing, we're all looking for easy answers that give pro-

fessional results. Years ago, I switched from brushed and wiped-on fin-

ishes to shooting waterborne finishes with a high volume, low pressure

BasicHVLPSPRN

(HVLP) turbine sprayer, and I've never looked back. Now my finishes are quick, safe and

durable, and they look like a thousand bucks.

I made a lot of mistakes along the way, however. Spraying is a whole craft in itself, and

I had to learn on my own, the hard way. If you've never sprayed before, or are just learn-

inghowthis step-by-step guidewill helpyou avoidthe most common pitfalls.Wdll cover

how to set up your shop, how to adjust the spray gun and how to go about spraying a

basic cabinet. Obviously there are a lot of fine points that we wont cover, but this is really

all you need to get going.

A good HVLP system can cost $600 or more (see our tool test on HVLP sprayers on

page 56), but if you want to take a test drive before buying, or simply want to get one

big project done quickly,you can rent an HVLP system at a paint store.

Waterborne Flnishes Are User-Friendly

Waterborne finishes are clearlythe best choice for spraying in a home shop.You get most

of the benefits of sprayed lacquer or polyurethane without needing an explosion-

proof exhaust fan or explosion-proof lights. Warcrborne finishes generally dry to the

touch in 3 to 10 minutes, and you can re-coat in less than an hour, building up 3 or 4

coats in a day. The quicker a finish dries, the less likely dust will contaminate the sur-

face. Clean-up simply requires warm water.

Be sure to buy a waterborne finish that is labeled for spraying. Waterborne finishes

for brushing are too thick to successfully spray, and generally can't be thinned. See

Sprayable Waterborne Finishes, page 38, for a representative list of manufacturers.

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A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 2 9

Page 18: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

AT-e50 P

Caution: This workhop setup is designed onlyfor spraying waterbohefinishes, notsolvent-based finishes, such as lacquer and polyurethane.

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Before You Staft

'$

Before spraying, do some housekeepingin your shop and practice how to hold

the spray gun.

€:# Prepare Your Shop

Spraying in a small shop is a constant baalewith dust and overspray. (Overspray is thefine mist that bounces off or misses yourproject.) Outfit your shop with plasticsheeting on the walls, a canvas tarp on thefloor,a halogen light and a Wndow fan (about

$ 150 total). Dust kicked up by the'gun canruin a finish.The tarp and sheeting eliminatethe dust hazard and keep overspray fromsettling on your tools,floor and wallsVacuumyour project before you spray.

Ventilate your shop with a window fanbehind the project, blowing to the outside.Crack open a door or window on the otherside of the shop to supply fresh air.Wear arespirator with an organic vapor cartridgewhen you spray waterborne finishes.

Strain the FinishWaterborne finishes may contain solid clumps that will clog thegun or spoil a finish. Solid pieces of finish or dust may fall into thefinish can, too. When you pour finish into the sprayer's cup,strain it through a small nylon anklet sock.You can rinse the nylonwith water and use it over and over.

For the steps ahead you'll need a large disposable surface topractice on.We used builder's rosin paper, available at a homecenter for about $ l4 a roll, but plain brown paper or cardboardwould work.

Practice Holding the GunThere's a right way and a wrong wq, to hold the gun,and )rou mustbe familiar with the right way before adjusting the gun's controls.

The first step is to turn on the HVLP turbine to pressurize thecup. Pressure keeps finish from traveling back up the pressure tubeand dribbling out of the gun.

Pick up the gun and hold it at 90 degrees to the surface. Dontlet the gun droop, particularly when you adjust the gun's controlsin the steps ahead, because that will create an uneven spraypattern. Hold the gun 6 to 8 in. away from the surface.

Lock your wrist and move the gun back and forth with your arm.The speed of your arm movement determines how much finishyou apply. Move too slow and the finish will pool. Move too fastand the coat will be too thin.You'll figure out the right speed afteryou set the gun's controls.

30 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 19: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

FAN PATTERNCONTROLAdjust the Gun

Setting the controls on the gun can be a complicated processof trial and error, but there is an easier way.We'll take youthrough an orderly process that will work each time youreadjust the gun for different situations.

Know the Gun's ControlsEvery HVLP system has three basic controls: the volume of airflow the volume of fluid flow and the type and size of the fanpattern.These controls may be located in different places than onthe gun shown at right. lf you're in doubt, check the owner'smanual.

An HVLP gun uses air to break up a fluid finish into tinydroplea. lt's called "atomization." Once atomized, the droplets areformed into an adjustable spray pattern, called the "fan."The trickto adjusting the gun is to get the right atomization, or balance ofair and fluid volume, across the entire width of the fan pattern.But before you tackle that problem,the first controlto adfust isthe fan pattern itself.

Set the Air C"p for Fan SizeA small detour here. lf you have the type of gun that has anadjustable air cap, set it now.Turn the cap so the nozzle is flushwith the face of the air cap.As you become better at sprayingyoucan readjustthe air cap to change the size ofthe fan pattern. Fornow,leave the nozzle flush with the air cap.

Select the Fan Pattern

All air caps can be set in three positions. Each positioncreates a different fan pattern. For learning how to set the air andfluid volume controls in the steps ahead, set the air cap to makea vertical pattern.Air and fluid volume settings are about the samefor vertical and horizontal hns. Round fans require readjusting

AIR CAPFLUSH WITHNOZZLE

these settings.A vertical fan is good for tops, or any time you move the gun side

to side.A horizontal hn is good for sides, or any time you movethe gun in and out, directly away from you.A round fan is used inspecial situations to concentrate the finish in a small area.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 ' 3 1

Page 20: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Adjust the AirVolume

Regulate the air flow from the turbineby'turning the knob on the air hose.Make this adjustment before tackling thefluid volume, below. Increasing the airflow creates tinier droplets of finish, ormore atomization. Thick finishes needmore air;thin finishes need less air. Holdthe gun 6 in.fiom the surface and pullthetrigger back only hr enough to create a6-in.-wide fan pattern.

l

Adjust the FluidVolume

Regulate the fluid volume by turningthe knurled knob at the back ofthe gun.This knob controls how far you can pullthe trigger. As you pull the trigger, thevolume of finish increases and so does thesize of the hn pattern.Your goal is to setthe trigger so it automatically stops atthe ideal size hn for the work you'redoing.To start out, stop the trigger at a6-in.-wide fun.

too littleTo start out, turn down theair control most of theway. Pull the trigger andmake a pass. lf finish spitsout of the gun or if you seesplatter at the edge ofthehn pattern, turn up the aira little bit.

just rightSlowly increase the airvolume until the fan isevenly atomized and hasclearly defined edges,without splatter.

just rightlncrease the fluid volumeuntil the fan is 6-in. wide.Tirrn the knob to stop thetrigger at this point. Nowyou can simply pull thetrigger all the way bac( likean on/off switch, to spraythe same size fan.As youmove the gun, you shouldget an even,wet coat offinish, not a mist and not aflooded surf'ace.

too muchlf you turn up the airvolume too much, you'll getspray that looks like a finemist, plus an excessiveamount of overspray.Reduce the air volume andtest again. (lf the air volumeis at the mar<imum and thegun is still spitting finish,use a thinner finish.)

too muchBack offthe fluid volumeif your surhce is floodedwith finish, or move thegun at a faster rate.Thefan will be too large whenyou pull the trigger backtoo far.

too littleBegin by adjusting thetrigger for a minimal pull.As you move the gun, thehn should be smaller than6-in. wide. Some sprayingsituations, such as sprayinga narrow hce frame, callfor a small fan in order tominimize overspray.

32 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 21: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spraying TechniquesPractice makes perfect. Rather than start right in

on an actual project,build a disposable cabinet to

try out the following techniques. For construction

details, see Practice Cabinet, page 38.

Spraying Inside a CabinetAlways begin with the inside of a cabinet.A general

rule of thumb of spraying is to start with the least

visible surface and end with the most visible surface.This minimizes overspray from settling on andspoiling a surface that really counts. Overspray onvisible areas will be covered by the final coat.

Fill your cup 3/4 full with finish.This prevents thefluid nozle inside the cup from being starved of finish

whgn you tip the gun to get into corners.Adjust the air cap to make a vertical hn.Increase the

air flow to create a light spray Pattern and minimizeoverspray. Light coats are fine inside a cabinet.Reduce the fluid volume to make a 6-in.-wide fan.

Next, follow the steps as shown:

Spray the back, overlapping each pass by 50percent. Position the edge of the fan pattern tojust reach the inside corners. lf you spray directlyinto the corner, finish will run down the insideedge or overspray will bounce back toward you.

On an actual cabinet, remove the back if you canand finish it separately.

Spray the botrtom, tipping the gun as closeto 90 degrees as )tou can to create an idealhn pattern.This is the most visible part of

the cabinet's inside. Spraying here last blends. in overspray from previous steps.

Spray under the top, moving from the back to the front.The hn Patternshould just reach the edge ofthe cabinet back

Spray the sides, moving from back to fronq away from the overspray.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 33

Page 22: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spraying Face Framesand Small SurfacesSwitch the air cap to a horizonal fan pattern. Reducethe size of the fan pattern to about 3-in. across tominimize overspray. You can reduce the fan byreducing fluid volume, reducing the air and fluidsettings together, or moving the gun slightly closer tothe surhce.Always test on paper before spraying yourcabinet.When you first pull the trigger to spray any vertical

outside surface, such as this face frame, dont aimright at it. Instead, aim the gun at a point above theface frame,as indicated by the yellow oval at left.Thenpull the trigger and work your way down.'Dontrelease the trigger until you're past the bottom. Dothis in one fluid movement, always holding the gunperpendicular to the face frame.

SprayingVerticalSurfacesAdjust the air cap for ahorizontal fan pattern.Adjust the fluid volumeand the air volume tomake a 6-in. fan patternon a piece of paper, asshown on page 32.

Start spraying at the top.Aim the gun at a pointabove the cabinet and pull the trigger.Then movedown the cabinet, just as you did with the faceframe above.

Return at the bottom and work your way up,overlapping the first pass by 50 percent. Onceagain, use the same technique of aiming at a pointunderneath the cabinet when you first pull thetrigger. Repeat an up and down sequence until theside is covered.

34 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Page 23: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spraying TiopsSet up your light at a low angle tothe toP so you can

clearly see your spray patterns.The edge of a top deserves special attention. lt gets

three coats for even/ one coat that goes on the top

itsell in part because edges inevitably get extra

wear.In addition, it's easy to sand too deep between

coats on a narrow edge. Extra coats will help prevent

accidentally cutting into a stain layer under the finish.

Set the air cap for a vertical 6-in. fan pattern for

bottr the edges and the top surhce.lt's not necessary

to reset the air caP to a small fan for the edges,

because that will slow you down.Waterborne finishes dry very fast.Your goal is to

keep the gun moving at all times. Each pass should

blend into a previous pass while it's stillwet.

Spray the top edges. Hold the gun at 45degrees.Again, dont worry about oversPray onto

the top.

Overlap each pass by 50 percent.Alternatedirection back and forth to keep the gun moving

quicker than the finish can dry. Spraying from front

to back directs overspray toward the window hn.. Stop spraying when you reach the back.

Spray all four edges, all the way around the top. Hold the gun at 90

degrees. Some oversPra), will land on the toP, but that's okay.You'll cover it

up later.

Spray the top. Hold the gun at 90 degrees, and spray across the front. Use

the same technique of handling the gun's trigger as you did with vertical

surhces on page 34.As you move the gun from side to side, pull the trigger

before you reach the top and release the triSSer only after you've passed

beyond the top.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 35

Page 24: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Runs, Drips and Errors

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Yucl<.Trying to be careful, I moved the guntoo s l ow wh i l e sp ray ing t he s i de o f acabinet. Or maybe my f luid volume wastoo high,l don't know. ln any case, I let themess dry, shaved off the excess with a utilityknife and then sanded. Next t ime l ' l l checkmy adjustments by spraying on a piece ofpaper f irst and make sure I l<eep the gunmoving.

Bubbles in the Finish

Mistakes are inevitable as you

learn to spray. I've made some

whoppers,but I've come to con-

sider them as opportunities,not

failures! With each opportunity'

you'l l become more familiar

wi th f ine- tun ing the gun 's

adjustments and holding the

gun while spraying.

Fortunately, most mistakes

are easy to f ix by sand i tg .

Waterborne finish dries very

fast.When you mess up,wait an

hour, sand and spray it over.

Missed Overlaps

NOTENOUGH 1FINISH '\

I

t-rurrr.

I told everyone I really wanted the finish tol oo l< l i ke Mars ! Un fo r t una te l y , no onebought i t . Bubbles mean the coat is toothick.Air got trapped below the finish as thes u r f a c e d r i e d . l w a i t e d u n t i l t h e f i n i s hhardened, then sanded out the offenders.Tospray a lighter coat, l'l l either increase the airflow, decrease the fluid volume or move thegun faster.

Pools of Finish at the Ends

Cheapskate! What was I thinking? That I 'dsave f inish by hardly overlapping at al l? l t 'snot worth it, because here I've got a roughlooking texture between the spray coats.Actual ly, I just couldn't see where the fanpattern hit the surface, so I couldn't iudgethe overlaps properly. What I real ly neednext t ime is a bright, low-angle l ight.

Now what? My gun quit on me after I tool<a coffee breal<! No, the gun's not at fault.While I was relaxing,f inish dried on the capand formed a hard bubble over the needle.No problem, I can clean i t r ight off with a

toothpick. Now I always check the cap for

dried f inish i f I put the gun down for a fewminutes.lt's as much a habit as taking coffeebreaks!

TOO MUCHFINISH

There's a wading pool-size puddle at theend of this top.What happened? | must havestarted this pass by aiming right at the end,and then pulled the trigger. I know that's notthe r ight technique, so l ' l l repeat to myselfas I move my arm,"aim at a spot just besidethe top, and then pull the trigger." In fact, Ivow to keep practicing unti l i t becomessecond nature!

Clogged Needle

36

Page 25: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spraying Raised-Panel DoorsEdges are everywhere on a raised-panel door!The

secret to success is to follow a systematic plan.

To set up the gun,turn the air caP to a vertical fan

pattern. Then increase the air flow a bit beyond

where you set it in "Adiust theAir and FluidVolume,"

page 32.This increases the atomization of the finish,

producing a finer spray and lighter coat. Finally,

reduce the fluid volume (the trigger setting) to make

a 4-in.-wide fan pattern. Now you're set to 8o.Place the door on some 2x4s to elevate it above the

table.The best setup, though, is to make a turntable

to support the door.Then you can rotate the door

as you go, always spraying towards the window fan.

Spray the outside top edges. Hold the gun at 45 degrees

and make a second pass all the way around.

Spray the bevels of the panels. Continue to hold the gun at

45 degrees. lf your panel is prefinished, naturally you'd skip this

steP.

Spray alt four edges, all the way around the door. Hold the gun about 6 in.

away.

Spray the inside top edges. Again, hold the gun at 45

degrees. Keep the gun moving to Prevent finish from building up

in the corners.

Spray all the top surfaces. Hold the gun at 90 degrees. Spray

two continuous coats for full and even coverage. Spray from

side to side, then rotate the gun and spray from top to bottom.

37A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 26: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Cleaning the GunAt the end of a day of spraying, take 15 minutes to clean thegun. If you skip this step, the gun may not spray properly.

Empty the cup and fill it with warm water. Adjust the aircap to make a round fan pattern, reduce the air volume andincrease the fluid volume. Then follow these steps:

Spray warmwater into abucket until thewater is clear.Thiscleans the internalfluid passages insidethe gun. Emptythe cup.

Disassemble thegun, removingeveD/ Part )rou can.Clean off driedfinish with warmwater and a brassbrush. Make surethe holes in the aircap are clean andfree of finish. Pokethem with a dullsewing needle ortoothpick.

Lubricate thegun. Wipepetroleum jelly onall threaded ormovable parts.Reassemble thegun. IW Sprayable Weterborne Flnlshes

These waterborne finishes are specifi-cally formulated for spraying with anHVLP system.This is just a sampling;there are many others on the market.

ApollocoatAquaClearwww.advmachinery.com(800) 727-6ss3Crystalacwww.crystalac.com(63r) 207-0328

EF Pro-serieswww.ge n eralfi n ish es.com(800) 783-60s0

EnduroWat-R-Basewww. com pl iantsprq/syste m s. com.(800) 696-06ts

Hydrocotewww.hydrocote.com(800) 22e-4937

PianoLacwww.pianolac.com(84s) 8ss-0ee6

Practice CabinetBuild this partial cabinet to practice spraying. lt's better to makemistakes on a throwaway piece than on your pride and joy! Makethe cabinet from a half sheet of 314-in. MDF (medium densityfiberboard) and assemble with a brad nailer or drywall screws.

A

D 1-114' x 16'

38 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Page 27: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)
Page 28: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

love my new 36-in. TVbut my wife hates whatthe glass and plasticmonolith does to the

look and feel of our familyroom. To avoid marital strifewe went looking for some-thing to house the behemoth.No luck. Sounds like a job forthe familywoodworker! I loveit when I get a chance to jus-tify my sometimes-contro-versial investment in the shop.

A cabinet large enough toaccommodate a 36-in. TVcould look like an oversizedshipping crate. But I used adesign with angled corners toease the big-box look.

Note: There are afew extra-deep 36-in. TVs that mayrequire you to cut a hole inthe back for the TV to pokethrough. You could make adeeper cabinet but youd haveto buy an additional sheet ofplywood. Play it safe; buyyourTV first, then adjust the depthif necessary.

The double-hinged doors foldflat against the sides to open upthe cabinet for unobstructedviewing. Plus, they're a whole lotcheaper and easier to install thanpocket doors. The adjustable, no-mortise, partial-wrap hinges (see

Sources, page 92) make thesedoors a snap to hang.

Cost and MaterialsI chose pine for itsrustic feel. Plus,I lovethe smell of fresh-cutpine in myshop.

Pine plywood is aspecial-order itemand comes witheither knotty or clearveneers (see Sources,page 92). You can

expect to pay about $600 inmaterials for this project.

Ventilation andWire ManagementBig TVs kick out a lot of heat, soadequate ventilation is a must. Thecabinet is designed to let the heatescape through a series of ventholes (Fig.A).

Television

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 4 l

Page 29: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Holes at the bottom of the upper crosspiece and at theback of the TV shelf allow both wires and heat to passthrough. All the wires funnel out of an 8-in.-dia. hole inthe back (Fig. A). The removable back allows easy accessto the snake's den of wires behind the TV and itscomponents.

Double-hinged doors fold flat against the sides,leaving the screen wide open for optimal viewing.Because the doors are double jointed, they can beoperated with as little as l4 in. of side clearance.

A conveniently located drawer with full-extensionslides allows easy access to a treasure trove of movies.

You' l l Need aWell-Equipped ShopTo build this project you ll need a tablesaw, a stacking dado set,bandsaw, biscuit joiner, screw gun, router table, router,pneumatic brad and finish nailer, planer, miter saw and atleast six 6-ft. pipe clamps.

Check your router bit collection for a ll2-in.Roman ogee, all2-in. cove, a ll2-in.round over, a flush trim (top or bottombearing), and a chamfer bit. If you want to make your own bunfeet, you ll also need a 1-in. round-over bit (see Sources, pagee2).

Build some knee-high sawhorses to support an oversizedassembly table.

All set? Let's start building.

AA /.\45 DEGREES

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nDetail IDoor MoldingsRound over top ofdoor trim (X) withsandpaper

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A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 0 0 3

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Page 30: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Fig.AExploded View

l"- #8x2"

The "double-jointed" doors aremuch cheaper and easier to

install than pocket doors.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 4 3

Page 31: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

ll Make all theI shelves

identical by usingone shelf as atemplate. Cut theangled corners on theother shelves a bitoversize. Clamp therough-cut shelves tothe template, and trimflush with a router.

r) Glue edging3 to the cabinetparts. The angledcorner edging onthe shelves is donefirst. Use a notchedblock to applyclamping pressure.Let the edgingoverhang along thefront.Then trim itflush to the plpvoodon the tablesaw.

Build the Cabinet1. Cut the 3/4-in. plywood parts A through J(see Cutting List and Cutting Diagram,Page

s l ) .2.Cutthe shelf blanks (B, C and D) to size. Lay

out the angled corners on one shelf blank bymaking marks 4-in. from the corner alongthe side and front edges. Connect the marks

and rough-cut the corner on the bandsaw.

3. Clamp a straightedge along your layout line

and use a flush-trim bit to finish the corners.

Use the finished shelf as a template for making

the other shelves (Photo l).4. Glue up the double-thick TV shelf (C) andthe center divider (F).A couple of brad nails

will keep the halves from shifting under clamp

Pressure.5. Add the 1/4-in. edging (QQ and RR) to all

the angled corners (Photo 2). Then add the

front edging pieces (NN and RR) to all but the

bottom shelf (it'llbe added later).6. Cut the semicircular hole in the back of theTV shelf. Add 1/4-in. edging to the drawer

opening dividers (l) and the center divider. Cut

the notch at the top of the drawer openingdividers (Fig.A).

7. Cut through dadoes and rabbets on the

sides (A) according to Fig. D. Glue on thesolid-wood edging (PP) andsand flush.

Glue UpGluing up this cabinet is a bigjob. Dry clamp the cabinet asa dress rehearsal for the realth ing . Measure the exac tdistance between the TV shelfand the component shelf andcut the center divider (F) to fit.

Screwthe TV and componentshelves to the center dividerand disassemble.

Q Assemble the cabinettJ with cauls and shims.The shims help put pressurein the center of the cabinetsides. Fasten the centerdivider to the two centershelves before assembly. Usescrews for the bottom shelf:molding will cover them later.

44 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 32: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

l. Assemble the cabinet with glue (Photo 3).

Make sure it's square!2 . Cut the upper (G) and lower (H)

crosspieces to width. Cut the wire and vent

arches in the upper crosspiece. Add the screw

flanges (GG) to both.3. T\rrn the cabinet on its side and reach in

from the back to screw in the uPPer and lower

crosspieces (Figs. C and D).

Apply the CabinetTrimThe cabinet trim is applied to nailer boards

fastened to the subtop and the comPonent

and bottom shelves.Before you cut your trim stock, select the

best-looking, straight-grained pine for the

column doors (N), column bases (P), door

frames (R, S and T) and drawer front (Q).

1. Rip the nailer stock (DD).Cut and fit nailer

boards under the component shelf (Photo 4

and Fig. F). The tops of these boards create the

ledge under the doors, so use defect-free

stock.Note: Before you add the nailer to the

front of the component shelf, slip the two

drawer opening dividers into the opening.

You won t be able to get them in once the

nailer is in place. Dont screw them in place

Just yet.2. Double up the nailer boarda long the f ron t edge o f thecomponent shel f . The nai ler

board at the angled corners is set

back to accommodate thecolumn base (Photo 5 and Fig. F).

3. Cut, glue and nail the column

bases in place.4. Attach the drawer openingdividers (Photo 6 and Figs. A

and C).s. Add shelf edging (MM) and

nailers to the bottom shelf (see

Fig. F).6. Machine the ogee (KK) andround over moldings (LL). Gluethem together to make a single

mold ing . Note : Remove thebearing from the round-over bitto create the double fillet (Fig.

D).Cut and fit the two bands ofmold ing around the lowerportion of the cabinet (Photo 7).

i Create a ledge-J below the doorswith solid woodfastened to theunderside of thecomponent shelf.Use a 7|8-in.spacerblock to keep an evenreveal.

E Add a row oft nailers belowthe ledge to create asurface to nail moldingsto.The nailer is flushwith the ledge in frontbut is recessed at theangled corner wherethe column base fits.

Determine thesetback for therecessed nailer byholding the columnbase in place andtracing the back edgeonto the ledge above.

I Screw dividerslJ into the case tocreate the draweropening. A 35-in. longspacer board keepsthe dividers parallel asthey are screwed intoposition.Tip: Mountthe drawer slides tothe dividers beforethey're fastened to thecabinet.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 45

Page 33: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

I Attach the, moldingswith nails andglue.We usedspecial moldingglue instead oftraditional yellowglue.The thick-bodied moldingglue wont dripor run whilepositioning themolding.

Q Fasten nailerI boards on topof the cabinet. Thesenailer boards create anoverhang above thedoors and provide asurface for applyingthe cove molding. Startwith the angled cornernaifer. Use a l-l l4-in.spacer block to set theoverhang.Attach theremaining nailers andscrew them downsecurely.

A Rout theI ogee edge on

the top.Just glueon the edging, sandflush and rout.Thenscrew the finishedtoP onto thecabinet.

T.Addnailers to the top of the cabinet (Photo

8 and Fig. E).8. The angled corners of the top (E) are cutin the same way as the template shelf exceptyou measure back 4-314 in. from the cornersinstead of 4 in. Glue on the top edging (HH).

Then rout the ogee edge (Photo 9).9. Attach the top, keeping about a 1-in.margin on the front and sides. Apply thecove molding (Photo 10).

Doors and DrawerThe double-hinged doors may look like anightmare to hang, but theyte really a snap.Adjustable, partial-wrap, no -mortise hingesare the key.

Be careful when screwing the hinges ontothe beveled edge of the column door (N).

The hinges come with li2-in. and 5/8-in.-long screws. Play it safe and nip 1/16-in. offthe ends of the Ll2-in. screws with a sidecutter so they won't poke through.1. Make the column trim (AA) (Fig. A, Detail1). Glue and clamp it flush to the outsideedges of the columns (no nails,please). Thencut the beveled edges (Photo 11).2. Attach hinges to the cabinet side of thecolumns. The point of the beveled edgeshould butt right up against the barrel ofthe hinge.Attach the columns on the cabinet(Photo 12).3. Assemble the door frames with biscuits.Remove the column doors and attach themto the door frames (Photo l3). Put the door

10*"?i1"'r"""under the top andagainst the edge ofthe nailers. Holdthe molding in placewith spring clamps asyou go. Fasten themolding with glueand pin nai ls.

46 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 34: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

:W

44 Rip the 45-degree bevels on the columns. To avoid kickback, makeI I sure the blade tilts away from the fence.That's easy on a left-tilt saw; on

a right-tilt, move the fence to the left side of the blade.

qt Hang the column on the cabinet. First, fasten the hinges to thelG column.Then use shims to posit ion the column door on the cabinet.The

half-wrap, no-mort ise hinges wrap around the inside sur{ace of the cabinet;al lyou have to do is screw them in place. Remove the columns after you'resatisfied with the fit.

qA Attach the door to the column. MakeItf sure the column and door frame are even

at the top by butting both pieces against a boardclamped to your bench. Put some short 2x4sunder the hinged joint so you can get to thescrew holes.

4A Nail panel molding to the back ofIt the door frame to hold the l /4-in.

panel in place. Miter the corners of the moldingto give your door a f inished look inside and our.

al tr Cut the door trim on the bandsaw.lrJ Ti l t the table to 20 degrees and secure a

guide fence. Use a sharp, high-tooth-count blade(6 to 8 teeth per inch) for a cleaner cut thatwon't require a lot of sanding.

A r n e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3 4 7

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+':

J,a Cut the bun feeta f on a bandsaw using

a circle-cutting jig. Set theblank onto the pivot point ofthe jig.Then slide the jig ontothe bandsaw and cut halfwaythrough the blank. Clamp thejig in place and spin the blankto cut the bun foot.

16il;lJi;in"'drawer box. Shim thedrawer front so the gapswill be even.A piece ofduct tape stuck to theinside of the drawer actsas a temporary pull.Open the drawer andscrew on the drawerfront from inside the box.The holes left by bradnails are tiny and easy todisguise with filler.

Fig. B Circle-Cutting JigMachine the solid-wood strip to fitthe miter slot of your bandsaw. Screwthe strip to a piece of plywood andslide the jig onto your bandsaw,cutting a slot to about the halfwaymark. Make a line perpendicular to theend of the cut.To set the pivot point,mark the radius of your circle fromthe saw kerf to a point on the line andpound in a finish nail so the headprotrudes I in. or so. Nip off the headand your jig is ready to go.

48 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 36: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

assemblies back on the cabinet. Apply theastragal (Y) to the right-hand door.4. Drill ll2-in. holes in the edging of thesubtop and component shelf for the fourrare earth magnet cups (see Sources, page92) that keep the doors closed (Fig. A).Remove the door assemblies and hinges forsanding and finishing.5. Make the panel trim (Z) (Fig. A, Detail 1)and add the panels (L) (Photo 14). Makethe door trim (X) (Photo 15) and fastenwith glue and nails inside the door frameopening (Fig.A).

6. Build the drawer box (Fig. C), add the fullextension drawer slides and install the drawerin the cabinet. Attach the pine drawer front(Q) (Photo 16). Add the iron pulls (see

Sources, page92).

The Bun Feet1. Make the four 7-in. blanks (BB). Rundiagonal marks from corner to corner toestablish a center point and drill a 1/16-in.hole at the center of each blank.2. Cut the bun foot blanks into 6-in. dia.circles (Photo 17). Round over the edges tofinish the bun feet (Photo 18).(For ready-made feet, see Sources, page92.)3. Machine the foot support blocks (CC) sothey compensate for any sag in your floor(Photo 19). Screw them to the bottom ofthe cabinet. Screw the bun feet to the footblocks (Photo 20).

The FinishI have to confess, even after 20 years ofprofessional woodworking experience, myknees shake when it comes to finishing pine.Blotching is so hard to control if you want toadd any color. For this project, I kept theblotch monster at bayby spraying the wholepiece with a shellac sealer (see Sources, page92). Then I sprayed a color layer of tonedshellac.I made the toned shellac by addingIl2 tsp. of Trans Tint Golden Brown Dye(see Sources, page 92) to 1 qt. of shellacsealer.I topped it all offwith a couple coatsof satin, waterborne poly.

For more on finishing pine from someonewho knows what he's doing, see "StainingPinei' page 52,by the incomparable finishingwizard,Tim Johnson.

18;l;?:in""router table with al -in. round-over bit.With the subfenceswide open, set thefence over the bit sothe blank just makescontact with thebearing and thesubfences are just shyof the blank.This willminimize bit exposure.

aA MeasurelY how much

your floor dipsaway from thewall. This cabinetmust be level so thedoors will stay open.Simply subtract anamount equal to thedip in your floorfrom the thickness ofthe foot blocks forthe back feet. Nowthere'll be nounsightly shimsunder the feet afteryour cabinet'sinstalled.

lln Screw the4V bun feet tothe foot blocks.The thinner footblock in back allowsthe cabinet to sitlevel on a saggingfloor.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 49

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Fig. CHorizontal Cross SectionThrough Drawer

114" X 112" RABBET

Fig. DVertical Cross Sectionand Dado Placement

Fig. GClamping Jig

Fig. E Top NaiterPosition the angled cornerpieces (EE) so that onemitered end runs directly overthe corner of the subtop andthe other mitered end runsover the outsidecorner of thecabinet side.

22-112DEGREEANGLE

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Cutting List overaf l dimensions 60" x 47-112" x30-718"Paft Name otv. Dimensions Notes

Sides 2 23-3/4^ x56-1/2" add 1/2 edqe

b Subtoo/Comoonent Shelf aL 26-7 /8" x 43" add 3/4 oine edoe to front

C W Shelf 2 26-7 /8" x 43" add 1 /4" p ine edqe

D Bottom Shelf 1 26-7 /8" x 43" pine is added to the cut corners, then add 1-1/2" edqe to front

E Top 1 29-1/2" x44-3/4" measure back 4-518' from the corner alonq both edqes to create anqled cornerF Center Div ider a

Z 1 1 - 1 / 2 " x 1 8 " qlue toqether and add 114" edoe', don't cut to final width before the dadoes are cut

Upper Crosspiece 1 1 1 - 1 / 2 " x 4 2 - 1 / 2 " add screw flanqes; cut a l itt le oversize, then trim to fit after cabinet is assembledH LOWer LTOSSOTeCe 1 9 " x42 -1 /2 " add screw flanqes; cut a l itt le oversize then trim to fit after cabinet is assembledJ Drawer Ooenino Div iders a

Z 9 " x 1 8 " add 1/4" edqe; cut a l itt le oversize then trim to fit after cabinet is assembled

s 5>o-

K Back 1 43-1/2" x55" screw back to cabinet to provide access for wirinq

L Door Panels aL 13-1/4 ' x 40-3/4"

M Drawer Bottom 1 4 - a t A i l a ^ t l

t / - J / + x 5 z

N Column Door Z 6-1/4 'x45-3/4" add column tr im before cutt inq anqled edqes

P Column Base z 6-1/4 'x9-3/4"o Drawer Front 1 7 -1 /4 ' x35 -1 /4 " trim to fit

R Stiles A+ 2-1/2' x 45-3/4"S Lower Rai ls 2 3 " x 12 -1 /2 "T Uooer Rai ls 2 2 -1 /2 ' x 12 -1 /2 "U Drawer Box Sides a

L 1 /2 " x6 -3 /4 " x 18 "Drawer Box Front 1 1/2" x6-3/4" x32"Drawer Box Back 1 1/2" x6-1/4" x32"

X Door Tr im Moldinq Z+ 1 / 2 " x 7 / 8 " miter to fit inside of door frame

Astraqal 1 5 /16 " x1 " x46 " trim lenqth to fit as required

Z Door PanelTr im 20' 1/2" x3/4" add 1/4" x 1/4' rabbet; bevel inside and outside edqes; miter around door panel

AA Column Trim 4 1 / 4 " x 1 " x 4 8 ' bevel inside edqe

BB Bun Feet Blanks A 2 " x 7 " x 7 " glue up 2layers of 3/4" stock plus one 1/2 ' - th ick layer; f in ished foot is 6- in. d iaFoot Suooort Blocks A+ 6 x 6 vary thickness to level cabinet on floor

DD Nailers/Ledqe Boards 26' Z - I / Z keep the clear nailer stock to make the ledoe under the doorsEE Top Anqled Corner Nai ler 2 2-1/2' x 6-314" measure 6-3/4" lrom lonq pointto lonq point;22-1/2-deq. miter on both endsFF Angled Corner Ledge Board L 2-1/2 ' x 6-1/4" measures 6-1/4" from long point to long point; 45-degree miter at cabinet side,

22-1/2-deq. miter on the other endGG Screw Flanqe 4 ' 3 / 4 " x 1 - 1 1 2 ' qlue or screw flanqes to back of crosspiecesH H Too Edqinq 'r0' 3/4" x 1-3l8" rout oqee edqe after edqinq is qlued on and sanded f lush

JJ Cove'10' 3 /4" x5/8" rout cove on wide piece of wood, then r ip on tablesaw

KK Ogee 1 B ' 3/4" x 1-3/8"tL Round-Over Moldinq t d 3/4" x3/4" rout profile on two edqes of a wide board, then rip on the tablesawN/M Bottom Shel f Edoino 1 1 -1 /2 " x36 " cut to fit between column bases

N N Other Shel f Edqinq 6 ' 3/4" x3/4" trim lenqth to fit as reouired

PP Side Edq inq 2 1/2" x3/4" x56-1/2"trim lenqth to fit as required

Edq ino 4', 1 /4" x3/4" trim lenoth to fit as reouired

RR Wide Edorno o 1 /4 " x1 -1 /2 " trim lenqth to fit as requred

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A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

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Page 39: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

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Page 40: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

nt ique p ine o f ten has a dark , me l low co lo r .Unfortunately, when woodworkers try to duplicatethat color on new pine by using stain, the results areusually disappointing. It's easy to end up with mega-

blotches and it's hard to avoid "grain reversall' a peculiar effect thatmakes stained pine look unnatural (photo below).lt doesnt have tobe that way, though. If you follow the process presented here, you cangive pine deep, rich-looking color without losing it 's naturalaPPearance.

Pine is hard to stain for a couple of reasons. First, its grain isunevenly dense. Typical wood stains cause grain reversal because theycolor only the porous earlywood; they can't penetrate the denselatewood. Second, pine's surface is usually loaded with randomlyoccurring figure and super-absorbent pockets that suck up stain andlook blotchy.

Our staining process includes four ingredients, water-based woodconditioner,water-soluble wood dye, dewaxed shellac and oil-basedglaze (see Sources, page 92). Our process isrit fast, because there areseveral steps. But it isn't hard, and it's home-shop friendly.You don tneed any special finishing equipment, just brushes and rags.

In a nutshell, the conditioner partially seals the wood's surface tocontrol blotching. Dyes penetrate both the earlywood and latewood,so theyminimize grain reversal. Shellac andglaze add color in layers,creating depth and richness. This coloring process works on all typesof pine, although the end result varies from one species to another.

EARLYWOOD

'r'1.' -r'' ,j ' 1-"'u

'" Staining usually,'i causes blotches and

always makes pine's porousearlywood darker than its

dense latewood, just the oppositeof unstained pine ( inset).Thistransformation is called "grainreversal."

BEF()RE Y()U STAIN

Ai FILL GAPS and stabilize loose&*-\l knots with epoxy.Tape the backofthe knot so the epoxy cant leak out.

[i:! SAND WITH A BLOCK angledLP-) across the growth rings. Becauseof the difference in hardness betweenthe earlywood and latewood, bridging asmany rings as possible helps to keep thesurface level.

(;':, PREEMPTIVE GRAIN-RAISING iS A\:) must-do for all water-based finishes.After you've finished sanding, dampen thesurface, to raise the grain.Then sand itagain, with 400-grit sandpaper.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 53

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STEP 1 BRUSH ON two generous coats of water-based conditioner.With each application, keep the surface wet for three to five

minutes, then wipe off the excess. Let the conditioner dry thoroughly, then sand it with400-grit paper. Go lighdy on contours and edges, so you don't cur through.

sr E P 2 lin: :Y: ::#, "?:ill?'""til .[:,HTJ.Ym:::container and let i t cool .

STEP 3 BRUSH ON a liberal coat of dye and keep the surface wet.Wipe the end grain occasionally to check its appearance.

After'the surface is uniformly colored,wipe offrhe excess dye and let the wooddry.Then repeat the process.

5 4 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Look Before You LeapBefore you touch your project with a brush orrag, get familiar with the materials and theprocess by practicing on good-sized pieces ofscrap. Experiment on end grain, face grainand veneered stock. Practice unti l you'recomfortable with the process and know whatto expect.

Fix Loose KnotsBefore you sand, stabilize any loose knots bydribbling epo)ry into the gaps (Photo A, page53). To make cleanup easier, keep it off thesurrounding wood surfaces. After the epoxyhas set, sand it flush with the surface. Clearepo)ry transmits the dark color of the knot.Ifyour epoxy cures milky-white, touch it uplater, after you've dyed the wood and sealed itwith shellac.

Sand ThoroughlyA good-looking finish always starts with athorough sanding job, especially with a softwood like pine. Here are some guidelines:

Sand with a block. Orbital sanders leaveswirl marks that make the stained surface lookmuddy. After power sanding, always sand byhand, using a block, before you go on to thenext gr i t (Photo B). Sanding with f ingerpressure alone wears away the soft earlywood,creating an uneven surface.

Change paper often. Pine gums up ordinarysandpaper with pitch-laden dust that quicklyrenders it useless. Dull paper mashes the woodfibers instead of cutting them, which alsocreates a muddy appearance when you stain.Stearated sandpaper lasts longer (see Sources,page92).

Sand up to 220 grit. First, level the surfacewith 100-grit paper. Then work through thegrits to create finer and finer scratch patterns.220-grit scratches are fine enough to disappearwhen you stain, as long as they don t go acrossthe grain.

Raise the GrainInvariably, sanding leaves some fibers bentover. Water-based finishes swell these fibersso they stand up,leaving a rough surface. Forsmooth results with these finishes, raising thegrain prior to finishing is essential (Photo C).

Two Goats of ConditionerWater-based wood conditioner (see Sources,page 92) makes the water-based dye easy toapply.It limits the dye's penetration bypartially

Page 42: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

sealingthewood,like a thin coat of finish. Twocoats are necessaryto control blorching (Step 1).

It's important to keep the surface wet untilyouwipe it, and then to wipe thoroughly.Anyconditioner that's allowed to dry on the surfacewill seal so well the dye won't penetrate.

Two Goats of DyeWe used Transfast "antique cherry brown"water-soluble dye powder (see Sources, page92). Water-soluble dy. from othermanufacturers will work just as well, althoughthe color will be different. Dissolve the dye atthe label-recommended ratio of 1-oz. powderto 2-qts. hot water (Step 2).Be sure to let thesolution cool to room temperature before use.. On the conditioned surface, the dye actslike a liquid oil stain (Step 3).Let it penetrate fora couple minutes before wiping. The secondcoat of dye imparts a deeper color and a moreuniform appearance.

It's tough to get uniform penetration onend grain. Fortunately,you can minimize anyuneven appearance laterwith the colored $azn.

When you have a large surface to cover, usea spray bottle to apply the dye and a brush tospread it. Simply re-spray previously workedareas to keep the entire surface wet until you'rereadyto wipe it dry. Spraying andbrushing alsoworks great on vertical surfaces. Start at thebottom and work your way up.

TVvo Coats of ShellacShellac prepares the dyed surface for glazng(Step 4).It also keeps pitch sealed in the wood.Without shellac,pine's pitch can bleed into oil-based finishes,leaving fissures or shiny spotsthat remain tacky, especially around knots.

Apply GlazeGlaze is nothing more than paint formulatedfor wiping. It's easy to make your own pro-quality glaze (Step 5). Artist's oils contain high-quality pigments for pure, clear color. Glazemedium makes the artist's oil easy to spreadand quick to dry (within 24 hours).

Glazing adds a second,separatelayer of colorthat reallymakes the pine come alive (Step 6).

TopcoatsYou need to protect this layered finish with cleartopcoats.Anytopcoat will work as long as youwait until the glaze has completely dried. Tocheck, wipe the surface gently with a cottonrag. If it picks up any color, wait another day.

,vv

STEP 4 SEALTHE SURFACE with two coats of 2-lb.-cut dewaxed shellac(see Sources, page 92). Sand after each coat with 400-grit paper.

STEP 5 MAKEYOUR OWN GLAZE by dissolving artist's oil intoglaze medium (see Sources, page 92).You dont have to be

scientific about the ratio as long as you use only one color. Dont go overboardwith the amount you mix-a liale glaze toes a long way.

STEP 6 GLAZEACTSASATONER on the sealed surface, resulting in adeep, rich color and a uniform appearance.Just brush it on and

wipe it off. Blend uneven areas by varying the amount of glaze you leave on the surface.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 43: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

TOOL TEST

TurblneSpr

\ HighI Volume/ Low

Pressure

ayersAdvantages ofHVLP Sprayers

Less OversprayLess overspraymeans more finishgoes on your projectand less is wastedgoing into the air.Some manufacturersclaim a transfer ratethat's double conven-tional high-pressuresPrayer tuns.

Dry, Clean AirMoisture and oil inthe air supply, whichcan wreak havoc withyour finish, are com-mon problems whenusing compressor airwith a high-pressurespray gun. HVLP-tur-bine supplied air istotally free frommoisture and oil.

PortableHVLP turbines arecompact and easilystored in a cabinet orunder a table and areeasily transported.

ou've probably brushed and wipedon gallons of finish over the years.But have you ever dreamed of theluxury of spraying on a fast, silky-

smooth finish? If you're readyto wake up andstart spraying, read on and we'll help youmake the best choice of HVLP sprayers foryour shop.

How an HVLP Turbine WorksAn HVLP sprayer uses high-speed turbine(spiral-finned) fans to compress and blow air(Photo 3). Each fan is called a"stage" and rotatesup to 20,000 rpm. That's as fast as a router! It's

TURBINE

SPRAY GUN

A turbine, hose and spray gun make up an HVLP spraysystem.Lemmer T_55, gwe_5trgs; $420.

cal led HVLP because i t produces highvolumes of air (50 to 100 cfm) at a low pressure(4 to 8 psi). For comparison, a conventionalhigh-pressure spray gun runs on 6 to 12 cfm ofair at 50 to 70 psi, which is supplied by an aircomPressor.

Three Basic ModelsHVLP turbines come either as 2-,3- or 4-stage units and range in price from $1OO to$1,000 or more. For your money you get aturbine unit, a hose and a gun (Photo 1). Forthis tool test we looked at 22 svstems for $600or less.

A Big Word of CautionSpraying can be dangerous. The overspraycreated by spraying can present a serioushealth risk to you and a fire hazard toyour shop. You can protect your lungs bywearing a respirator mask appropriate forthe kind of finish you are spraying. Over-

coming the fire hazard can be accom-plished by using a waterborne finish

rather than a solvent-based finish.This is what we recommend.If you

choose to spray solvent-based fin-ishes, instal l an explosion-proof

exhaust fan and lights, which will cost youseveral hundred dollars or more. Checklocal building codes, too, since they'll prob-ably require additional safety precautions.

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56 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Page 44: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)
Page 45: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Features thatAddConvenienceThe up-front switchand hose connectionmake them easilyaccessible.Thepower cord shouldbe mounted out ofthe way of theswitch and hose.Thegun holster is ahandy place to storethe gun betweenuses and theonboard tool kiiholds spare parts.Graco HVLP 2500,two-stage;$525.

REAR.MOUNTEDPOWERCORD

How aThree-Stage HVLPTurbineWorksAir travels through the inlet into thefirst fan and then down the firstfinned baffle to the center ofthesecond fan.The second fan thenforces the air down into the secondfinned baffle, which directs the air tothe center of the third fan wherethe air is finally forced out throughthe outlet.

ONBOARDTOOL KIT

58 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 46: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Anatomy of an HVLP Spray GunThe spray gun, with controls for fluid andair flow, is the working end of an HVLPspray system.The gun shown here is fromthe Capspray CS5 100 system and has abuilt-in air control valve. Some guns use anair control valve on the hose instead.TheCapspray gun also has an external lever thatis used to rotate the position of the fluidpickup tube.

We Used Waterborrne FinishesIt's important to use a waterborne finish that isformulated specifically for spraying (see BasicHVLP Spray Techniques, page 28). Manywater-borne finishes are formulated for brushing and aretoo thick to spray with an HVLP turbine sys-tem. This is particularly true with the two-stagesprayers. Some brushable finishes can be thinned,but ybu must be careful not to thin them toomuch because this can adverselyaffect the finistfsperformance.

3-Stage Turbines HayePlenty of power

A three-stage turbine produces about 50 percentmore pressure than a two-stage turbine. This efirapressure atomizes finish better. The extra airpres-sure also allows a wider range of adjustments forthe fluid and air settings. This in return providesbetter control over the shape and size of the spraypatterns. The most e4pensive two-stage systems doan acceptable job of atomizing sprayable water-borne finishes, but apply them at a slower rate. Afour-stage unit provides 25 percent more air pres-sure than a three-stage unit but this additionalpressure is not needed for applying sprayablewaterborne finishes.

FLUIDCONTROL

Fig. A How an HVLP Spray Gun WorksAn HVLP gun has large internal airways. They allow easypassage for the high volume of air that is used for atom-ization. Some of the air travels down a pressure tubeand pressurizes the material cup. When you pull thetrigger, f inishing material i i pushed up the pickup tubeand out the nozzle. As the fluid leaves the nozzle it isatomized by air coming from openings in the air cap.

LEVER FOR. ROTATINGFLUIDPICKUPTUBE

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A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L v 2 o o 3 59

Page 47: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

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The flexible self-adjusting pickuptube on theTitan spray gunautomatically swings to any angle youtip the gun. lt's a great feature, butcleaning the ribbed tube is a pain.Titanincludes an extra flex tube with the gun.

OUICK-CONNECT COUPLER

A 20 ft. hose is useful because it hasenough length to work around yourproject, while keeping the turbine at adistance so the filter doesnt pick upexcess overspray. A quick-connectcoupler is used to connect the hose tomost tuns.The hose's air valve is usedfor guns that don't have a built-in valve.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Outstanding FeaturesWe found several features that makean HVLP turbine system easier touse and adjust. Some can affect howwell your finish turns out (Photos 2through 6).

Easy-to-change air fi ltersAII machines have air filters that needto be cleaned regularly for peak per-

formance. Machines with easy toremove and replace filters scoredpoints with us.

Easily accessible controlsWe also liked units that have switchesand hose outlets that are conve-niently positioned and power cordsthat are mounted out of the way.

Gun holsterA few units have a gun holster forstoring the gun between uses andduring transportation. Spray gunsare easilytipped over and dam-aged, so a holster is a valuableaccessory.

Non-bleeder gunsWhen you let go of the trigger, aircompletely stops coming out of thenozzle of a non-bleeder gun. On ableeder gun, air continues to comeout.We prefer the non-bleeder stylebecause you don t have to worryabout accidentally blowing dust intothe air when you point your gunaway from your project betweenspraying passes.

Easy-to-adjust air capThe air cap controls the shape of thespray pattern from horizontal to ver-tical to round. An air cap shouldrotate easilybecause it is common toreadjust it several times while spray-ing a project. Some air caps requireyou to loosen and retighten the capring to make adjustments. Othersrotate roughly or are hard to turn.

Finely adjustable fluid andair controlsFluid and air controls that can beprecisely adjusted make it easier tocontrol fluid atom ization,the spray

pattern size and overspray.

Metal guns with insulated handles

Some metal guns have a plasticcover over the metal handle, othersuse a plastic tube inside the han-dle. This is a particularly good fea-ture to look for in a gun that has abottom air hose connection. Thehot air produced by the turbine can

make an all-metal handle uncom-fortably warm.

Top and bottom hose connectionsWe prefer guns that have air hoseconnection points at both the topandbottom of the gun. Connectingthe air hose at the bottom gives thegun a balanced feel and works greatfor most spraying. Connecting theair hose at the top of the gun allowsyou to run the hose up your arm,over your shoulder and out of theway. This is useful when sprayinginside cabinets or a wide flat areasuch as a tabletop.

Easy-to-adjust fluid pickup tubeThis feature really caught our atten-tion. The Titan uses a flexible tube(Photo 5) that is self-adjusting. The

Capspray uses an external lever thatrotates a rigid pickup tube thatrotates forward, backward, and left(Photo 4). Being able to keep thebottom of the fluid pickup tube inthe finishing material when tippingthe gun at various angles is a great

feature. It's especially valuable whenthe spray cup gets half empty andyou need to tip the gun to the sideor backward in order to spray thathard to reach spot. Pickup tubes onother guns require you to open thecup and then turn the tube by handor with a wrench,which is not verypractical while spraying.

A 20-ft. air hose providesthe best reachWe found thatyou need at least a 20-ft. hose to provide enough lengthto work around most projects.

60

Page 48: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Recommendations zffiIf you want an HVLP turbine sprayer for finishing

ffudft

ilTjffi*ffi;::1ffiril: '::::,:;:JffH b6gOur Editors' Choice and Best Buy tools are both

three-stage units and have almost all the features

we liked.

Other Recommended ToolsThe Graco HV-2500 and the Capspray CS5l00

have many of the features we liked but they are only

two-stage units. They are both however, available as

three-stage models, but at a price higher than $600.In fact,you can get three-stage models for most of the

two-stage units represented in our test.

Wagner Softspray 2500; $4753-stage machineThis system has everything we liked except the power cordis mounted right next to the switch so it gets in the way whenturning the machine on and off and the fluid pickup tube cantbe adjusted while spraying.

Accuspray

American Turbine

Lex-Aire

Turbinaire

Titan - Editors'Choice

ConvenientlyMounted

Switch, Hoseand Power

Cord

(800) 279-4441(866) 247-6e37

247-6937

Finecoat Plus(800) 328-82s1

(8oo) s61-6908(8oo) 46s-232s

(800) 443-4s00539-2473

(888) 900-48s7(866) 247-6937(800) 328-82s1

Min iP ro 1 135

247-6937

) s26-5362(800) 328-82s1

* see Sources. page 92 for street-price vendor l ist

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 49: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

You Should AlsoKnow About

There are HVLP spray gunsthat are des iqned to runoff regular compressed air. k6*They're called HVLP con-

"ff i j ;

version guns and they offert he same l ow-ove rsp rayh igh- t ransfer advantagesof a turbine svstem. One ' ,

a d v a n t a g e t h e s e g u n shave over turbine-powered ""elw#-il, ;

HVLP guns is that conver- Lynx-3 HVLPsion guns hook up to a reg- Conversion Gun.

u la r sma l l - d i ame te r h i gh -pressure air hose. This is easierto pul l around thanthe larger hose on a turb ine un i t . Some of theseguns are available for less than $200 but most costtwice that, or more (see Sources, page 92). Somerun on a 1- or 1-1/2-hp compressor but manyrequi re a 5-hp compressor or b igger ano youst i l l have to be on guard against mois ture and o i lin the air supply. l f you have an appropriate com-pressor, and a way to extract the moisture and oil,then go ing wi th a HVLP convers ion gun mightsave you some money.

i-*fJE,fi

' f

j 1

Titan TS40; $6003-stage machineThis system has almost everyrhing we liked:a nonbleeder gun,self-adjusting fluid pickup tube,fronr-mounted switch and hoseconnection, rear-mounted power cord and onboard toolkit . l t only lacks a gun holster.

ff'

Non-Bleeder

Gun

Easy-to-AdjustAir Cap

FinelyAdiustable

Fluid and AirControls

MetalGunBody

Insu-lated

HandleTwo Air HoseConnections

AdjustableFluid PickupTubeWhileSpraying

N Y N N n.a. Top onlv N Has no air control valveN N N N n.a. Too onlv NN N N N n.a. Iop onlv NN N N N n.a. Top onlv N Has small built-in spare partVtoolboxN Y N N n.a. Top onlv N Has no air control valve.N N N N n.a. Top onlv NN Y Y N n.a. Top onlv NN N Y Y N Bottom onlv NN Y Y N Y Bottom only N Has a short hose because the turbine is desioned to be

hunq from operator's shoulder via a strao. -

Y Y Y Y Y Bottom onlv N Has burlt-inN Y Y Y Y Bottom onlv NY Y Y Y Y Y Y Hose and switch mounted on oooosite sides of the turbineN N Y Y N Bottom onlv NN Y Y Y Y Y NN N N N n.a. Top onlv NY Y Y Y Y Y N Switch and power cord mounted too close toqetherN Y Y Y N Y NN Y Y Y N Bottom onlv NN Y Y Y Y Y NN Y Y Y N Y NY Y Y Y Y Y Y Has built-in spare partVtoolbox

Y Y Y Y Y Y N Switch and power cord mounted too close toqether. lWn . a . : N o t a p p l i c a b l e b e c a u s e g u n h a s o n l y a t o p a i r c o n n e c t i o n

A r n c r i c a n W o o c l r . l ' o r k c r J U L y 2 o o 3 63

Page 50: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spray Booth for Waterborne Finishes

NOTE:This setup is for sprayingwaterborne fi nishes onlY.

aaLrJIz.f

Iri:<JTUlNJ

o

tT

E.

FoIrLa

z

az.-z.tt!

2F

t!E.

oFt

Fiftybucks and a few hours is all it takes to put together this finishing booth.It keeps over-

spray off my tools and dust off my projects. Since I use waterborne finishes, I'm able to

use a regular box fan in the window to vent the fumes. A furnace filter over the fan keeps

overspray offthe fan blades. Before spraying I thoroughly sweep my shop floor, put down

paper and crack open my garage door several inches to make up for the air being blown

outside by the fan.I built the booth by first stapling an 8-ft. by 8-ft. piece of plastic to the ceiling. Then I sta-

pled the top edge of the plastic walls to 2x2s,which I screwed to the ceiling rafters. Once the

plastic walls were hung,I stapled 2x2sto the bottom edge of the plastic.I cut a hole in the

back plastic wall for the fan. To store the plastic walls I roll them up and hang them on loops

of rope that hook onto screw heads. This booth also works great for brushed-on finishes.

Brent Greer

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 51: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Smal l Shop Tips

Spray Gan StorageI'm a great fan of aerosol finishes, especially now thatmany of them have adjustable tips that make muchless splatter. But my shop got so cluttered with half-used cans that I had trouble finding the color Iwanted, so I built this simple storage rack for all thecans. Now I can instantly find just the color I'mlooking for. The shelves need to be 5-in. deep,but theangle isn t critical. Anything between 45 to 7 5 degreeswill work. Mine is 70 degrees.

Tim ]ohnson

Tubular StorageHere's my solution for storing skinnythings like wood trim and edge band-ing.I bought a 12-in.-dia. by S-ft.-longcardboard concrete form at a homecenter for about $14. I slid plywooddividers into the tube and added a fewscrews to hold the dividers in place. Ihung it from the ceiling in my base-ment w i th p lumber 's s t rap . Getplumber's strap at a home center forabout $2 for a lO-ft. roll.It took one rollto hang my storage tube.

George R. Hoffman

Tablesaw Tool DrawerIt seems like I m always misplacing my push sticks,blade wrench, featherboards and other small table-saw accessories. To solve my problem I added a shal-low drawer under the side feed table.I simplybuilt awood box that was open in the front and screwed itto the bottom of my side table. Then I installed adrawer using a set of 22-in. full-extension heavy-duty drawer slides (see Sources, page 92). The slidescost me $14 and I used leftover plywood.It didnt costmuch but it sure provides a lot of convenience.

Tbm Caspar

/W

If yog hlve an original Small Shop Tip, send it to us with a sketch or photo. If we print it, you'll get $100! Send your tip to:Small Shop Tips, Arnerican Voodworket,29l1 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55f 2f or e-mail [email protected] cant be returned and become our property upon acceptance and payment.\7e may edit submissions, and use them in all print and electronic media.

55 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 52: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

I

I I This index covers American Woodworkerissues #78,Febn rary 2000

3 -vear I n q €)K,-I"ftT::i1i.;11[sJ:;h'Hff:;,?lsfl ;is 3;?:JJr;*"'o'"'nAcid-free paper, sources,79:38Adjustable chucks,advantages of 83:82Air compressorsstation for

p o r t a b l e , 9 l : l l 4buyer's guide, 83:9 | -94developments in,83:93easy-drain adaptation, S0: | 3features and types, 83:92sett ing up an air l ine,83:94size and capacity, 83:93Air fi lters, cleaning, 89:20Air filtration systemscapacity guidelines, 80:44filters, source.80:47shop-made from kits,

80:4347when to clean,80:46Allergiessensitizer species, 99: | 8to wood. 99: | 8Aluminumcutring

with chop saw,86: l0Aluminum tubing, source,78:82Anglesgauge for

making,92:8 |shop-made checker for

sharpening, 82:79stop block,98:56

Anti-sag powder for glue,source, S | :69,81:72Antique toolsbooks about, source, 83:50collector and restorer

profiled,83:46-50restoring, 83:4&-50Archesplywood,86:46, 86:4&49, 86:5 |Arcsdescribing, 92:80la rge , d rawing ,9 l :18ArmchairsGreene and Greene ioinery,78:3G-32Arts and Crafts stylebookcase. 9l:5&-72chair in.93:6G-72hall mirror

making, 85:7&-8 |plans for

book of 94; | 8Ash, source,82:77Assembly table, 8 l :62-65,84:74-78Auger bitsship, source,80:76Awls, sharpening lig, 80:32

nBacksplashescurved, 89:60, 89:64, 89:65Bamboo skewers, T8:22Bandsaw bladessources, T9:56,8l:50storing, 34:46Bandsaw jigsduplicator reviewed, 82: | 0 IBandsaws| 4-in. heavy-duty

reviewed,9l:24blades for

2001 recommended, 92: 104center-finder lig,86: | 4dust collection, 88: 1 6, 90:25,9l:42features of , 90:24-25, 97 :21 --24for resawing

b lades ,9 l :104-105recom mended, 90:26-27,

, 9 0 : l 1 8reviewed, S8:84-9 |

guide bearings, source, S l:50

guide blocks,88:90disposable, 88:24pheno l ic ,9 l :42

guide blocks ofsh ims.85 : l8

ocagons on,88:22outfeed tables for

dri l l -press as,88:94parts sources, 9 l:45recommended 200 l, 92: | 04recommended 2003, 97 :26resawing

blade selection. 8l :4748on,88 :23

squaring cuts on,92:27table for

temporary,89:25table for

auxi l lary,9l:42shop-made,8 l :103-104

tapers withwide,89:89

tensioner forquick-crank,9 l :42replacement, 86:24

tires of, cleaning,89: | 6tool holder for

magnetic,9l:42types ol 90:23,90:25upgrading, S l :5 |zero-clearance inserts, source,8 3 : 1 2Banksmagic-coin, 87:82, 87:88-89Barrel bolt connectors,sources. T9:38Baseball bats, making,78: l2Basesconcrete weighted, 98:5f59Batteriesdisposal,83:69maintenance tips, 83:69nickel-cadmium (NiCad)compared to (N|MH) (nickelmeal-hydride),83:59rebuilding, 93: l0recycling, 87: | 4types of,90:17Beadboard, making, 95:22Beading, adding,93:23Bedsassembling, 85:67-69basic design, 8l:4G-45hardware, S5:59,85:69headboards for

making,85:66mattresses. 85:59

rail fasteners, sources, 8 | :45stock, 85:59, 85:69turned-post

making,85:56-69Belt sandersbuyer's guide

reviewed and AW ratec.79:66-69

features and types, 79:66-69Be l ts , l ink , 9 l :39 , 9 l :4 |Bench dogs, making, 89:43Benchesgarden

building 8 l :66-72, 86:45-5 |Bevelsangle block for grinding, 32:80angle, calculating, 82:79throat plates, 95:5 l , 95:57with tablesaw 94:56Birchfinishing, 89: 1 20- 1 22for other-species matchi ng,89:l 17,89:122grades of,89:l 16plywood,39:l l8- l l9

sources for Baltic, 80:47species ol 89: | | 5vs . map le ,89 :123Bird's eye maplebuy ing ,8 l :30characteristics and uses,8 l :2&-32

grading, 8l:3 |sources, 8 l :33working, S l :32-33Bird's mouth joinerybits for

reviewed,92:32Biscuit joinersclamping iig,79:.17mini-biscuits.85:54routers as,85:53Biscuit joineryfor table rails, 94:62, 9 4:63slots,94:80techniques, 79:73Bitsas gauges,94:63bird's mouth.92:32brad-point,9 l :78bullnose

smal l ,93 :23 , 93 :108carbide

sharpening,92: | 7chamfer,93:108cove

source,93: | 08depth gauges for

making, 92:8 |dovetail

care with.85: l4drawer-lock. 92:60-61dri l l

as depth gauges,92:79for "recoverable" beads

reviewed,87:26Forstner

speed,93 : | 2hole-saw

chip clearance, ST: l8hollow screw-remover. 85: | 0lock-miter, source, 79:59pattern, 93: | 08pf ug-cutteri 87 :64, 87 :65removing rust from, 82: l0round-over.93: | 08router

anti-kickback,90: | 6core-box,85:85flush tr im,87:65,87:80panel raiser, 86:34, 86:43rail-and-stile, 86:8, 86:32-34,86:43,87:26slot-cutter vs. plate

joiners, ST:8spiral up-cutting, 87:63, 87:65vertical molding, 85:83with insert cutters, 94:34

router slot-cutter, 99:50screw pi lot,87:37self-centering

source. 93: I 08spiral-up-cut,85:5 |stop col lars,9l:78tongue-and-groove, 95:75

adjustablereviewed.92:3 |

undersizedfor plywood dadoes,85:5 |

Blade cleaner,reviewed, 34:24Blast gates, modifying,79: l6Blemishestouch-up,95:24board feet, how to calculate,82:12Bocce ballsrules of the game, 8l:22turn ing ,S l : |&-23Boltslocking

making, 93:77,93:79BookcasesArts and Crafu style,88:76€3Arts and Crafts style knock-down,9 l :58-72floor pins,86:63formal built-in, 86:58-66

materials list.85:5 |

molding, 86:59-60, 85:6 I,86:65

from plywood carcase, 9 l :86installing, 88:82-83plywood

parts,88:8 |safety chains,9 l :60simple plywood, 95:76-86toe boards,9 | :62,91:65two-part, 82:56-63valances, 9 I :62, 9 | :65, 9 | :66Bookendslead-fi lf ed, 87:82, 87 :86-57Bowl turningbeautiful bases.79:22Bowls, turnedblanks for

preparing, S5:99natural-edge, 85:98- | 03primavera, 99:102BoxesABC boxes,84:75clamping,93:86dividers.93:90instal l ing hinges on, 79:20iewelry,93:8G-90

sources,93: | 08l ids .93 :88magi c-coi n puzzle, 87 :82,87:8&€9Brad nailers, hoseless, 95:30Brad settersfor nail removd, 93:26,93: 108Brass hardware and pullspul ls and handles

source.82:23Brass rod stoch source,80:38Breadboard endsGreene and Greene sryle,78:26-28Brown, Molly ("Unsinkable"),79:56Brushes90", creating, 39: | 4brass, sources, 79: | 2Bubinga, qualities of, 9 | :126Builder's paper uses of,99:23Bulletin boardsmaking, 95:69, 95:75Bureausrestoring, 96:70-78Burgess Edge Systemrouter bits

reviewed,99:29Burlscentering on a lathe faceplate,8 l : 1 6mesquite,8T:46Butcherblockquartersawn, 89:53Butterfly inlaykit, 99:6 l-63Butternutcanker of.96:96finishing, 96:94-96qualities of,96:90-96Buyer's Guideair compressors, 83:9 l-94block planes,83:34-40cordless dri l ls

reviewed by othermagazines, S3:70

dovetail iigs, reviewed andAW rated.84:66-73drills, cordless, 83:66-70dust collectors

reviewed and AW rated.80:8l-85

jointer-planersreviewed by othermagazines,83:65

jointers, 83:6 l-65lathes,83:7&€3miter gauges reviewed and

AW rated, 8l:8l-83mortisersbenchtop, reviewed and

AW rated,Sl:73-77

oscillating spindle sandersreviewed and AWrated,82:82-85

power miter sawsreviewed by othermagazines, S3:58

sliding compound-miter sawsreviewed and AW rated.84:9&-109

routers, 83:85-89reviewed by othermagazines, S3:89

shop vacuumsreviewed and AW rated.80:69-73

tablesaws. 83:72-76reviewed in othermagazines,83:76

thickness planersbenchtop, reviewed andAW rated.79:83-87

vises reviewed and AW rated.82:92

ICabinetmaker's triangle,79:75Cabinetsassembling, 95:7l-72bathroom

fiom plparood carcase,9 | :86box frames, 98 :77, 98:8 | 42display

lighted,98:7647dividers for

vert ical,96: l7entertainment

home theater. S4:4U63walnut, 78: | 7 correction

face framebuif ding, 9l:74-86

face frames.89:62fitting, 9 l :80, 9 1 :82

filler strips,88:83flammables.82 122-124for dri l l press,78: I l9-120for router table, 99:,4 | 42hanging

solo.92:20Hoosier style,79:14correctioninstalling built-in, 78:56F{ |kitchen

carving,89:24lights,98:84material,9l:75over-desk. 95:6S-75pie safe,79:70-77guick plywood, 9 6:60-67rol l ing shop

from ptywood carcase,9 | :86scribing allowance, 78:59shop, 9 l:88-96

making,87:33-43s ink

shelves, S5:92,85:94storage

building,87:36wall mounting, 95:72-7 3, 95:7 5web frames, 95:62, 95:64-69,95:75wide

building,87:36Cabriole legsstep-by-step instructions,80:55-5 |Calculatorsfor construction math,98:3 |Calipersdial, reviewed,83:33using,82:45Carcasesplate-joined,98:5 Iplywood, 89:56-67, 9 | :7 4-86Cartsrolling-cabinet

bui lding,87:35workshop, 9 6:52, 9 6:56-57

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3 69

Page 53: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year lndex

Carvingreplacing missing parts,79:8-10Case constructionlarge cases,84:55-57Case-hardening, detecting,79 :14Cauls, shop-made, 79:74Cedar, working with, 98:54Center findersbandsaw lig,86: | 4making, 87: l6Center findingwith squares,92:77ChairsAdirondack

all-weather: 87:6G-65disassembling, 92: l4outdoor sling

making,93:60-72Rieweld style, 79:60-65seats for

frbric sling, 93:.7l-72Chalk marking pencils,sources,79:56Cherryfigured

sciurce,88: | 04finishing, 93:52-58, 93: | 08sapwood ol 93:52, 93:57-58,93: | 08sources, 78:45,79:77Chestsblanket

frame-and-panel,Mission,99.4L5978:,3745

hope chestframe-and-panel,78:3745

chests of drawersShaker sewing cabinet,84:82-89

Chiselsangle gauge for

making,92:8 |beve l -ang le ,8 l :14

an$e block for ginding 8280flattening the blade back 82:8 |hollow-

for mortises, S5:80new

dullness ol 85:8protectors for

glove-finger;87:20sharpening hollow 78: l0Chop sawsdust col lect ion,92:24station for

wir ing,95:20Circlesdescribing, 92:80router iig,94:72without lathe, 98:69, 98:7 |Circular saw bladesteeth, types, 78:lGl7thin-kerf.80:68Circular sawscordless l8v' r e v i e w e d . 9 l : 2 8

Clampingcauls,93:66-67jig, for curves, 78:20of angles

blocks,93:69of boxes,93:86Clamps3-way

edging,87:57band

source,93: | 08bar

choosing, 94:32-33caul for 98:57centering, cauls, 89:7 |corner, for miters, 94:24

making,89:69extenders, 89:70, 89 :72for dovetails. 89:7 |for miters, 88:52, 99:55, 99:55hand-screw'

vises from.99:27pads for

plywood, 78: l8

7 0 A m e r i c a n

parallel-jawsmall .96:29

PiPEexpandable, S0: | 3guards, 78: | 8

Quick-Grip reviewed, 83: | 04sources. T9:77

racks,98:44rubber bands as,85:26small strong

making,93:22spring,96:25squaring blocks,89:72stands, 89:72, 89:74toggle

source, 78:82, 8l:6 l ,85:43,93: | 08

Clothespinsclamps from,93:22Cocoboloqualities of,94:6G67Colletsremoving rust from,82: l0Colors, artists', 93:56, 93: 1 08Columnstapered, 88:76-77, 88:7 840Commodesqu i l ted map le ,86 : l l6Compassesimprovised, 92:80making,86:48Concrete, stains,86:8Containersgaskets for

tape,99:23Corbelsfor top overhang, 99:56-57,99:58Cordless drillsaccessories. 83:70buyer's guide, 83:66-70developments in,83:68features and types, 83:67--68Corner jointssanding tool, shop-ma de, 82: 17Countertopsholes in

cutt ing,85:93Cracksbutterfly inlay, 99:6 l-63Credit card fraud, buyingvia the internet and,83: | 8Crosscut sleds and tablesfor tablesaws

sl iding stop,80:24s I idi ng, shop-m ade, 7 8: | 7correction.S2:l l0

Crosscuttings led , 9 l :76crown moldingcutting

with a compound mitersaw.84:57

CupboardsAmish lelly,89:56-67Curvesdescribing, 99:59iig for clamping,TS:20lay ing ou t ,8 l : l2on router table,99:47routing, ST:79s-

describing, 92:82

DDado bladessize for contractor saw,8l: l0dado headsheight-setting tool reviewed,8 l : 8 6Dadoesangled,94:76blow out, preventing, 80:77for plywood

undersizing, 35:5 |on router table.96:83on tablesaw, 85:94, 85:95,88:58,96:62on tablesaws.9l:76router base plate for

graduated,85:52router jig, 96:22, 99:29throat plates, 95:5 l, 95:57

W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

with router,9l:91with tablesaw, 89:86, 92:50-5 I,92:53,92:56,92:57Dents, steaming oug 8l:92Depth gaugesbits as,92:79for bits

making,92:8 |Designproportion calculator; 92:83Desk accessoriesfile holder,80:36-38Desksbuilding,95:6G-75cord-hiding backboards,95:73-74Detail sanders, shop-made,80:32Disc sanderDelta reviewed, 8l:86Discs, twist-andJock,98:&4-7 |Door jacksrol ler stand as,92:35Doorsexterior

wood.88:57fl ip-up, 95:60, 95:5 l , 95:69,95:7l-72flush-fit, 79:7&-81glass cabinet,98:84€5glass,98:87glass-panel

bits,92:32glazed

"recoverable" beads, 87:26hanging, 89:65, 98:85-€6hinges for

from inside,87:38installing, 88:62-{3making,89:65mort ises,88:58plywood flat-panel, 9 | :62plywood shop-cabinet

hanging,9l:94-95raised-panel

anti-rattle snakes, 86:4 |assembling, 86:40designing, 86:4243making, 86:32-43, 95:3440para o(85:32-39plywood, 9l:67

screen panels,88:58storm panels,88:58storm-screen, 88:56-64twist prevention, 98:85Dovetail jigsfor comfortable workposition, S0:24recommended, 90: I l9reviewed and AW rated,84:6G73setting the bit,84: | 0using with a routenffi:92-94

for making sliding dovetails,84:86

Dovetailsclamps, 89:7 |jig for

reviewed, 35:34j igs,92:59

recommended 2001,92.|Uon router tables, 87:62, 87:63router jig,99:28saws. 90: l9sl iding

easing,92:22iig,99:29router jig,84:86with router. 85: l4

with plywood,93: l5Dowelsdri l l ing

iig,87:84hardwood

source.87:89jig for

as saw stop,93:20iigs,94:62,94:63notching

jig,87:8'1-85splitting

for test fits.89:70

to lengthj ig,87:84

Dowels and cylindersgluing into blind holes,80:24hardwood, sources, 78:45,8 l : 6 9storage, T8:20turning, T9:28Downdraft dust collectorDelta model reviewed.83: l4shop-made,80:66Drawersassembly, TS:20biscuit joinery, 95:62-44, 95:66cei l ing hung,78:49dividers, 92:5G-57, 92:59

qu ick ,89 : l0dovetailed. 84:9 l-94

design details,84:92file, 95:60-66, 95:70fit, checking,84:87fronts for

fa lse ,9 l :7 |ioint construction

Greene and Greene style,78:32-34

lipped, making with a dove-tail iig, 84:9 l-94

lock rabbets,92:60-43making, 89:64-65, 9 | :7 0-72,92:5 l . 92:58plate-joined, 98:50quick and easy,87:4f43q u ick pf ywood, 9 6:62, 9 6:65-67restoring, 96:70-78runners. S9:62J3runners for easy-slidin g, 9 | :21smelly,96:77spice-rack insert, 96:26stops,96:67

magnet, 92:58,92:59tool

dividers,96:68tray-qrPe

making,85:92,85:95wear away problems,84: l2Drill bitssharpening and grinding

brad-point, 78:65Forstner. T8:67spade,78:66techniques, 78:63twist,78:64

sources| 4 mm brad-point, 79:,34half-inch brad-poing 79:34taper-point, 8 I :69

Drill presses-sander combo,97:38-sanders

reviewed, 39:96abrasive disks, 98:62,98:64-7 |as outfeed tables, 88:94backer boards for

sacri f icial,86: l3bases of, improving, 9 l :39belts of,86:70,86:72cabineg shop-made,7 8 : l l 9 - 1 2 0center finding on,94:62chucks of

improving,9l:39chucks on,86:7 | ,86:74circle-sanding jig,98:69, 98:7 |depth stops on, 86:72, 86:73featu res of, 90:32-34, 97:35-38fl oo r, reviewed, 86:68-7 5for wood

remodeling,90:32handles of

improving,9l:39hold-downs, 86:20hole-saws with

chip clearance, ST: | 8key holder for

retractable, 87:20levers, 86:70, 86:72lights on,86:75mortisers, 86:7 0, 86:7 4, 97 :37mortising attachments, 90:37parts sources, 9 l:45

recommended, 90:36-37,9 0 : l l 9

recommended 200 l. 92: 104

recommended 2003. 97:38rims of,86:70,86:73round stock with,98:72sanding on

caveats, 86:7 |sharpening system with,98:62-74sizes ol 86:69speeds, 86:69, 86:70storage,92:98switches on, 86:7 l, 86:7 4table for

extended-reach, 93:94tables

auxiliary,94:20bottom boards.94:29

tables form a k i n g , 8 6 : | | l - l 1 4materials l ist,86: I l4

taps with,98: | 4,98:72types of,90:3 | ,90:32variable-speed, 98:34vibration with

reducing,9 l :39Dri l l ing

stop block, 94:7 |straight

j ig,89:26Dri l l ing j igsfor centered holes,84: | 4for pocket holes

Kreg K2000 reviewed, 84:22Dri l lscordless.9T: | 6

features of,97:29-31recommended 200 l, 92: | 04recommended 2003, 97 :32reviewed, 39:92

cordless l8vreviewed,9l:28

cordless compact, 95:29cordless mid-sized

features of,9 |:48-5 l ,9 | :53reviewed, 9l:47-54

handles forinterchangeable, 98:3 |spacer jig,86:62Drive beltslink type compared toV-belts.83:24sources. 33:24Drum sanderdust collectori shop-made,80:64Drying wood, air-, 8 l :50Dust bagsshop-made hangers, 82: I 8Dust collectionbooks and booklets about"80:67,80:85for drill presses,86: | | Ifor scroll saws,87:70protective clothing, 80:65tips for better, 80:62J8Dust collectorsbags

selection guidelines, 80:82,80:83sources. S0:85

blast gates, modifing, 79: l6buyer's guide

reviewed and AW rated,80:8l-85

capacitysize required,80:84

chip and offcut separationaccessories, sources, 80:62

techniques, 80:62-63downdraft table

Delta model reviewed,83: l4shop-made, 80:66, 82:54

features and types, 80:82filters,80:82-83for routers.80:66grounding duca,80:26leaks, sealing, S0:83mounting, S2:38pipe fittings and connectorsfor,80:67remote control,

8 0 : l l 4 - l l 6single-stage, anatomy of,

80:82sources, S0:85

Page 54: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year Index

two-stage cyclonic, anatomyof,80:82Dust masks and helmetsNational Institute of Occu-pational Safety and Healthrecommended, 80:68sources,80:68Dust, health risks from, 80: 104Dust-collection systemsbags, 90:43, 90:47

sea l ing ,9 l :43upgrading, 9l:43

control forremote ,9 l :43features of,90:4243,97:4749,97:50

fi l ters,97:50fi ne-particle collecting, 96:28for bandsaws, SS: 1 6, 90:25,9l:42for lathes,9l:44for router ables, 88:95, 92:66for routers, 92:. | 0, 9 6:27for tablesaws

overarm.88:34impellers of

upgrading, 9l:43parts sources, 9 l:45portzble,92:24recommended,90:41'|'7,90 : l l9recommended 200 l, 92: | 04recommended 2003, 97:50sizing,90:42switches for

tool-actuated. 92:24two-stage can-toP

reviewed,9l:30types of, 90:39-4 |upgrades,96:32Dyesbleaching, 82: | 08for figured wood,93: | 04source, 93: | 08vs. glazes,93:57water-based

removing, 32:108

-Ear protectionand eye,92:92-95Ebonizing,with India ink.86:76Ebony, sources,8l:6 |Edge bandingshop-made clamp, 8 l : 1 2,83 :9&10 |Edge gluingclamp racks,78:5 |Edge ioinery, marking, 92:77Edgesrounding with a router;78:20Edgingsapplying,96:62clamps for,87:57disguising, 87:56for miters,98:49for plywood, ST:54-58painted filled,87:57planing

marking,87:56router bits for

reviewed.99:29trimmer for

router,87:58with plate joinery, 98:47-48Electrical outletsinstalling cabinets around,78:61Electrophysicsmoisture meters

recommended. 94:8&€9End grain, sanding, 79:54Epoxyspecialty, sources, 8 | :69Extension cordsorganizers, 98:32Extension-cord holdersshop-made,82: | 8Eye protectionand ear,92:92-95

-Fabricfor chair seaa, 93:7 l-72,93: | 08velvet self-adhesive, 93: 1 08Face framesfor cabinets

al igning,79:75mitered, Sl:7L79

with plate ioinery, 98:47Fastenerstabletop, shop-made, 80:26Featherboardsfor router tables, 85:82,85:83,92:26for tablesaw, 92:64, 97 : | 4making,99:46plastic

reviewed,98:38with rabbets.96:83Feetbracket

making,93:86-€7brass

source,87:89for furniture

sealing end grain for out-door use,84:30

roundinstalling, 89:60, 89:63-64

Fencesauxillary dust-collecting, 88:95choosing,96:42commercial,95:43easy-adjust, 99:40, 99:.4'1 15for router table.88:95magnetic micro-adjustable,97 :16micro-adjustable, 9 | :40on new tablesaws.96:5 |router,92:65-67

layout,85:54router-table

making,92:87-91router-table iointer: 85:38-42sacrificial, 9l:78

for miters,93:83spring boards,92:26sub-, 92:66, 92: 67, 99:40,99:44T-tracks, 99:40, 99:43tall,99:47Fiberboardcabinets from. 87:33-43split, repairing, 87:38widths of

for cabinets, ST:38Fiberboard, medium-densityfor j igs,98:66laminating, 98:67-48Fibral, abrasive wool, 98:36File cabinets and holdersdesktop, 80:36-38Filesauger-bit, source, 78:65auger-bit, using, 78:65FillersePoxy

source,86:5 |for plywood edges, 87:57in tubes,98:30Finials, bal l , source,86:5 |Finishin tight spots, 89: l4Finishesadhesion, testing, 80:98applicators for

l int less,93:24cherry-aging,93:58, 93: | 08colors, 93:55, 93:108contaminating

with tack cloths,86: l0ebonizing

stain,86:76exterior

water-based, 94:36flammables cabinet,82:122-124food-safe, 78: I 04, 94:l 5for exterior doors. 88:58for figured wood,93: I 04for mahogany, 93:90,93: | 04,93: | 08for restorations. 96:78

fumed oak, 85:79-80, 85:8 |lacquer

spray-on,93:55mixing

cups,98:22nontoxic. ST:80oil

applying,93:54spott int with,90:128

pipettes,99:27polyurethane

rubbing out, 88: | 6spray-on,93:55toxiciry of 94: l5

pre-assembly, 99:54removing,96:78screw props,99:56shellac

spray-on, 93:55, 93: | 08with glaze,93:56-58

sources, 93: I 08spray-on, 93: | 08stripping,78: | 8testing, 85: | 06touch-up kit for

portable,86:76varnish

drip removal, 85:108straining, 85: | 06

wire hangers, 36:78Finishingavoiding drip shadows, S l:90,82:104end grain, 8l:90final rubout,82:8flooding and wiping technique,7 8 : 1 0 6 - l l 0levitating your workpiecefon 80:100pad sponges, 8 l:90raised grain

as a prefinishing step,78: | 06Fire hazardsflammables cabinet for finish-ing supplies, 82: | 22- | 24Flashlightscordless l8v

reviewed,9l:28Floorsconcrete

staining, S6:8mapping uneven, 78:57Flush-cutting saws,sources for,78:45Fluteswith router, 85:82, 85:85Food safe,portable,82:20-23Food-safe finishes, 78: | 04Frame-and-panelconstructiondoors,79:76-77

for cabinet backs, 98:79,98:82-83for chest,99:50-54

reversible stile and railcutters, 78:72-74Framesmini-biscuia,85:54wedges,85:8 |Framing squaresmarkings on

repainting, 85:24truing,82: | 0Furnituremaneuverability of

testing,90: I 28period

society,8S:8rustic,99:6

UGapsdisguising

withV-groove,9l:84Gaugesthickness

shop-made,80:30Glasscurved

cutting,85: | 2for cabinets,98:87Glassesprescription safety,94: | 2

Glazescolors, 93:52, 93:56, 93: | 08vs. dyes,93:57with shel lac, 93:56, 93:57Glazingmuntins with

glued-on,88:83Gloves, lint-free, 88:53, 88:55Glue blocks, adding, 89:62Glue-updowels.80:24of mitered joints and sements,8 l : 1 4rub-joint gluing,82:8techniques, S2:8Gluesand wood-surface age, 96: | 4bott le,99:32ePoxy

source.87:65excess

kerf catchment,S9:74removing,89: l0

extended-open-time,sources, 7917,82:63for exterior use,88:57,88:6 |gap-f i l l ing,9l: l6holder,98:22hot-melt

heavy-duty,9 l:26loosening,92: l4

with heat,86:65open time of

extended, 9 l :1 28rubber t ips,98:27spreaders

unorthodox, 78:20stains from

avoiding,89:70white, extended-time, 87:28white vs. yellow,93:86Gluing upbrackets. 9 l:93face-to-hce,98: | 2glue blocks,98:59miter jig,96:8G47of carcases,99:54of miters,93:86

with tape,89:7 |of tapers,89:74squaring jig,89:59stands,89:73third hand,96:25Gougessharpening

custom strop,82:80deailing gouge, 80:2 l -23spindle-roughing gouge,80:20technique,80: | 7- l 8,80:22-23tools and jigs,80: l6sources,80:23

Grain, sef ecti ng, 99:52, 99:54Greene and Greenejoinery techniques of,78:24-34side table in the style of,8 l:52-{ |Grindersadjustable-speed

reviewed. ST:29buying,90: | 2Grindersshop-made,80: | 3swing-up housing, 8 | :39Grindingconical stones, sources, 78: | 0gauge for

making,92:8 |machines for

reviewed,89:76{ |process of , 89 :7 6, 89 :77Grinding wheelsaluminum oxide, character-ist ics,80: l6dressing,80: | 7,82:79sources, TS:64Groovesfor box bottoms,93:83for frame and panel,99:52,99:57gang-cutting

on tablesaw.9l:93

in plywood end,93:78stopped,88:58V-

at plywood-wood loin,99:48, 99:50, 99:5I,99:53-54, 99:54, 99:58

IHandlescrank

for vises,85: l8rubberizing, 85:20Handsawsfl ush-cutting, sources, 78:45Hardwarebrass

aging, 93: | 4, 93: | 08escutcheon-plate, 93: | 08Heating ducts, installingcabinets around, 78:61'Hide glue, sources, 79:77Hingesbits. 93:108European, characteristicsand uses,82:64-67

installing, 9 l :67installing

bua,79:8G{lcenter punch, sources,8 l :65European, 32:64-67s u rface- m ou n ted. 7 9 :20

jewelry-box, 93:108mortises for

with tablesaw 93:84piano

instalf ing, 89:67, I | :94-95,93:78

positioning, with tape, 93:88sources, T8:45

bun,79:56,79:77continuous with barrelbolt connectors, T9:38European, 32:67

wrap-around, 99:57, 99:58Hold-downsfor drill presses, 86:20for plate joinery, 98:56for workbenches,9T: | 6plastic

reviewed.98:38router-table, 86:3 3, 86:3 7Holesin end grain

centering,85:63routed

enlarging,85:63shelf

iig,9l:78spacer jig,86:62straight

j ig,89:26Holes (defects)repairing,88:82Hollow-chisel mortisingattachments

sharpening, 78: | 0Honingmachines for

reviewed, 39:76-8 Iprocess of , 89:7 6, 89:77with strop,82:80Honing guides, using, 82:80Hoosier cabinetsbuilding, 79: l4 correctionHoosiers, plywood, 88:36Horizontal boringdrill press vertical supportfon79:17Horsepower,peak vs. rated, 78: | 4Humidorswood selection,78: l0Hygrometers andmoisture meterspin type vs. pinless, 79: | 4sources, 79: | 4,8 l :50

nlnfeed/outfeed aidsswiveling rollerl 80: | |lnlaybunerfly, 99:48, 99:5 l, 99:54,99:63Internet, buying tools on theweb. 83: | 6- | 8

72 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Page 55: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year Index

rJam chucks, shop-made,8 l : 1 9Japanese planespull rype, reviewed, S l:89ligscentering, for drilling ormarking, 34: l4dowel-drilling

source,82:77for clamping curves, 78:20tenoning, on router, 84: | 6Jigsawsbase plates for

zero-clearance, 89:20tool-free blade changing

reviewed, 93:34, 93: | 08Joineryedge-to-edge,87: | 0

plate-joined, 98:48knockdown.9l:63stamps,92:82with drywall screws, 87:37fointers-planers, 90:52, 90:7 6, 97 :55,97:728-in.

reviewed.99:35features of,90:52-53,97:53-56long-bed

reviewed. 39:94planes as,94:26

recommended, 90:54-56,90: | 20

recommended 200 l, 92: | 04recommended 2003, 97 :56router-table

making,85:38-42straightedge sening aid, 85:22troubleshooting, 9 I : | 2types of,90:5 |Jointersadjusting, maintaining, andtunint

checking for square,83: | 30pulleys and bela,83: I l8table alignment, correct-

ing ,83 : l2G-122tun ing ,83 : l l8 -130waxing the table, 83: 1 26

buyer's guide, 83:6 l-65developments in,83:63features and types,83:6 l-63fence alignment methods,83: | 26-l 30fence features and size,83:64settint knives on

methods, 33: | 22-126lointingon router table.92:89on router tables.89: | 3router jig,78:5 |wide boards,78:8with a routeri 8 | :8, 82:70-7 |with router iig,89:58,98:2 |with tablesaws,9T:12fointsknock-down

bolt-and-wing nut, 85:24

nKerf bendingprocess ol 86:48Kerfs, jig, 93:83Keyhole hangersources. S0:34Keyhole slotsmaking, 89:84, 89:86, 89:88screws for

installing, 89:89Kilnsmaking,94:42-55operating, 94:52-55Knives, sharpening, 82:80Knobsattaching

with Tnuts.86: l6drying rack, 85: | 08star

source,87:94T-style

source,93: I 08

7 4 A m e r i c a n

Knobs and pullsdrawer and door, source for,79277Shaker style, source, 84:89Knots, removal of , 89 :22-23Koa, curly,89:124

rLacewood, qualities of ,94:96Laddersrolling

source,86:66Laminationbent

process of,86:49for veneer,87:86gang,95:78press,89:73Lap jointstest cuts.85:79with tablesaw 92:56, 92:57Lappingmachines for

reviewed. 39:76€ |process of , 89 :7 6, 89:77Laser guides, 83:26Lathe chucksrim chucks,78:102-104Lathe toolsgouge

using, 85:62, 85:64, 85:65,85 :100-103

partint toolusing,85:62

skew chiselusing,85:62-63

Lathes| 6-in. variable-speed

reviewed.9l:32bed height of

raising, 9l:45bowl heavy-duq,96:32buyer's guide,83:7&{3

mini lathes reviewed,78:68-71

buying advice, 83:78-80centers for

l ive,9l:44chuck for

4-iaw,9l:44cush ions .9 l :45developments in,83:81direct-drive. 95:33dust collection. 9l:44dust collectors, shop-made,80:65faceplates

centering on burls, 8l : | 6featu res ot, 97 :6043, 98:88-94height,98:93live centers.99: | 2mini-

recommended,90: | 20reviewed, T3:6&7|

motors ofby brand,98:90

pars sources,9l:45recommended,98:95-97recommended 200 l. 92: | 04reviewed,98:88-97sliding-headsto ck, 97 : | 4small

recommended 2003, 97 :64speed and poweri 83:80stabilizing,98:9 |steadying,85: | 00weighg 9l:45Latticebuilding,86:46,86:47Layouttools for

storing,8S:96Layout toolsTriScribe reviewed. 82:98Leadembedding

for weight,87:86-87Legsexterior

water-proofing,86:49laminatedmaking, 94:60-6 l, 94:64level ing,98:57,98:86lumber:89:52

W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

marking system, 92:78, 94:75rounding oven94:64screw props,99:56tapered

making, 92:5G-5 l, 92:53uneven

fixing,94:65Levels, accuracy as a straight-edge,83: | 28Lid supportssources. T8:45Lightingfor display cabinea, 98:79,98:84for shops

designing,87: l2under-cabinet, 95:6 l, 95:69Locks, cam, sources, 8l :65Logscuttint and drying, 8 | :49-50Louisville Slugger bats,dimensions, TS: l2Lumberamounts of

af lowances, 89 :48, 89:49board-foot formula, 89:47bowed,89:5 |calculating board feet,82: | 2case hardenin g of , 94:54, 94:55certified source,95:32checking in,84:32color of.89:53construction-trade

preparing, 98: | 0crooked,89:5 |cupped,89:50figure in,89:53for exterior use,88:57grades of,89:4&49grzding,&4:3*42grain direction in, 89:52, 98:8marking system,94:75planed

hit-and-miss, 89:49pre-mil led,89:52quarter measurements, 89:47rifuawn,89:52selecting and buying, 84:3f84:42sources,96:92sticker stains on. 94: | 6twisted,89:5 |warped,89:50Lumber racksshelf shims,87:94

UMachinery| 20v x 240v 95: | 6American-made.95: l4bases for

mobile,88:92, 9l:4 |modular stations for

reviewed,9l:33outfeed rollers for

on jacks,86:28portable

storage,98:42tables for

material, 92:,67, 92:68Magazinesfiling tips,95:7magnetic switches, as asafety device,83:28Magnetizerfor small nai ls, 93:23, 93: 108Magnets, rare-earthsource,86: | 3Magnifiersvisor-type,97:7Mahoganyfinish, 93:90, 93: | 04, 93: | 08quilted

features of. 93: | 04source,80:54,93: | 08MantelsArts and Crafu style,88:7G43building, 88:7&80, 88:82-€3Maplebirdseye,96:98curly

bed ol85:56-{9f inish.85:69

quilted big-leaf,86: I l6Markinglines for

darkening,92:80-8 |symbols,92:76-83Marking tautesbeveled-edge wheel

reviewed, 93:37, 93: | 08knife

sharpening, 92:79making,88:54using,92:79Matboard

cutting,88:5f55cutters

using,88:5f55Materials listcare with.89: l5MDFfor machinery tables, 92:67,92:88,92:90Measuringsystems,92:7643Measuring tapesboard-foot computing, 95:29stick-on, 93:20,93: | 08Mesquiteabout,87:4f53barbecuing with,87:53dimensions of.87:48dust of,87:52hardness of,87:50sapwood ol 87:50sources, ST:53stabifity o1,87:49Metalfor machinery tables, 92:67tapping,98:14,98:72Metal detectorsreviewed, SS:30Methylene chloridecharacteristics and uses, 79: | 2Mineral spiritsdisposing,84:28reusing,84:28Mirrorsassembly of,85:80hall oak

making,85:7&€ |Miter gaugesaccurate,95:3 1,95:48features and types,8 l:82-83precise

reviewed, SS:32precision,9l:4 |recommended, 90: | 08, 90: | 20recommended 200 l, 92: | 04reviewed and AW rated,8 | :8 l-83slots for

tightening, 93:24stop for

quick-action, 87:24Miter jointslock-miter,79:57-59Miter sawslaser-guided, 96:30recommended,90'61-64, 90: I l9sliding compound

features of,90:59-62Miter saws, compoundfeatures of,97:67-49fences for

wall-hinged, 92: l0 |recommended 200 l, 92: 104recommended 2003. 97 :69reviewed,97:8station for

portable, 93:92, 93: | 08Mitersbiscuit joinery,94:80clamping

with tape,89:7 |clamping block,99:55,99:56.99:58clamps, 88:52, 89:69, 94:24for little boxes, 93:82-€3gluing-up iig,96:8647jig,88:5 |long

plate-joined, 98:49mini-biscuits, 85:54

miscutfixing,87:57

perfecttestint,88:49

splined,99:7F75tablesaw sled,96:8F85testing, 93:83, 93:86Moisture meterschoosing,94:87-88recommended,94:8&€9types of,94:86-87Molders, -pla ners, 97 :7 2Moldings"recoverable" beads, 87:26assembled, 86:59, 86:60,86:65-66cove

small ,86:66with router table. 93:8648curvedmaking,99:7{78

dentilmaking,86:65

fluted,85:85for picture frames, 96:82-83making,89:63

with routen 85:82-85reed,78:8f82routing, 95:7 l, 95:7 3-7 4sanding block,85:84small

making,93:82method,85:83

trimover gaps,88:83

Morse tapers, fitting, 86:74Mortise and tenonfit ol 88:1 0

correcting, 93:67for doors, 98:79, 98:80,98:85haunched, 88:5&-6 l, 88:64lrlortisersbenchtop

recommended, 90: l 2O-1 2 |reviewed,8T:24reviewed and AW rated.81273-77souping up,78:41

drill-press, 97:37discussed,90:37

features of,90:69-71hollow chisels for

reviewed. S9:98recommended,90:72-73recommended 200 l, 92 | 04

Mortisescutting, 93:62, 93:54for pegs

with hollow-chisel, 85:80making,88:70on legs

marking system,92:78plugging

for turning, 35:6 |router jig, 92:50, 92:52splines, ST:63squaring,85:6 |stopped,88:58through

squaring up,85:80with plunge router, 87:62,87.'63with routen 87:77

bits,85:51jigs,85:5G-5 |

Mortises and mortise-and-tenon joints

routing,Sl:7Hltechniques,78:37-45

Motorsbrushes of

replacing, S5:8electric, sources, 8 l :50power of,96:3&-39spark from

diagnosing, S5:8understanding horsepowerratings, 78: | 4Mulch, from workhop, 92: l2Musical instrumentsturning a whist le,78: l7correctionMyrtlewoodquafities of,92:'102

Page 56: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year lndex

rNail setsmagnetizing

for small nai ls,93:23rectangular

making,9l:20Nailersbrad

cordless-compressor, 9 | :29Nailsand staples

combo gun,86:22brads

bobby pin holden 84: l6compared to finish nails,79:45pusheri 88:50

plier-holding,9l:9 |removing

brad setter,93:26small

magnetized starter, 93:23Noiseroom insulat ion,99: l4Notcheswith tablesaw 89:88

nOakcurly red, 95:106finish for

fumed, 85:79-€0, 85:8 |quartersawn "old-growth,"85: | 20Ocarina, turning an, 78: l7correctionOctagons, method, 88:22Oil finishesapplying, 78:106-107sources, 78:54,79:62Oscillating spindlesandersbuyer's guide

reviewed and AW rated.82:82-85

Grizzly reviewed, 82:97Porter Cable hand-heldreviewed, S2:96outfeed rollers

swiveling,80: | |Ovals, mat cutters, 99:78

-Paintand fasteners

bleed-through with, 86:49for exterior doors. 88:58on damp wood,86:49over pressure-treatedwood.86:48removing from pores,79: IsPray-on

rack,96:88str ippint,79: | 2Panelsassembly ol 85:80bits for

reviewed,92:32Patternsgridded

enlarging,8T:65transferri ng, 82: | 4, 82 | 6Pegs, decorative, 9 l :65Pencif holder,84:14Pencilscarpenter's

sharpene4 99:36chalk marking, sources, 79:56multiplyingquickly,92:80Perf-boardextending the hooks on,8 l : 3 8shelving, S0:8Phenolicfor machinery tables, 92:67Picture framesassembling, 88:53fasteners for

quick-change, 88:53fi4ishing rack,88:52hangers, 38:49making,96:80-88

7 6 A m e r i c a n

miters of,88:49,88:5 |oval

making,99:72-78painting,96:88rustic-style, 8 l :2f26splines, 88:49-50supplies, 88:54-55Planenmoldersbuying, 90: I 4, 90:76Planers-jointers, 90:52, 90:7 6, 97 :55,97:72-molders,97:72benchtop

reviewed,93:28-29dust collection for

bui l t- in.98:30features ot, 90:7 G77,97 :7 | -7 3knot removal, E9:22-23portable

recommended,90:122recommended 200 l, 92 | 04recommended 2003, 97 t7 4

snipe-prevention sleds, 99:25stands,95:88taper sled, 9 l :69, 93:68types of,90275-76vs. sanders,90: | 8Planesblock

buyer's guide,83:39sources, S3:36types and features,83:3,1-36

cufting angles,83:40flattening the blade back,82:81irons of

sharpening, 38: | 2uPturned

as jointers,94:26Planingfigured wood,93: I Mof curly wood,92:44-45wetting before,92:45without jointing,84:9Plansfor Mission furniture

book ol 94: | 8period

sources, SS:8Plant standsnine-pot

making,94:7V72Planterspatio shingled

making,94:7840Plastic laminateapplying,99:43samples of

uses.99:25Plate joinersbiscuits for

making, 87: l6edge-to-edge alignmentwith,87: l0features of,90:82recommended, 90:83, 90: l 2 lrecommended 200 l, 92: | 04rypes of, 90:81-82vs. slot cutters, ST:8Plate joineryangle jig,99:20biscuit exposure in, 99: 1 04biscuit sizing, 98:5 l, 98:52carcases with.98:5 |cut gauging,9S:5 |drawers with,98150edge joinery with, 98:48edging with,98:47Pace frames with.98:47hold-down.98:56miters with,98:49shelves with.98:50technique,98:52top attachments with, 98:48with slot-cutter bits, 87:8Plate turning, 78:9&-l fiPlugssource,87:80tapered, sources, 8 | :69trimming

router jig,89:25

W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Plunge routersBosch l6l9EVS, review,83: | 04buyer's guide

reviewed and AW rated,78:7G79

Fein, review 83: | 04Plywood-wood attachment, 98:48ApplePly, source, 80:38Baltic birch, source of void-free,80:47camouflaging,83:44carrier, 39:26chip-out protection, 95:8 |cutt ing,9 l :76

cautions,9l:77guide,89:38tearout Protection, 87:56with a circular saw 78:50

dimensions oftrue,85:5 |

dri l l inggang,89:38

edge banding, 89:58, 95:63,95:6,{-66,95:82

jointing,89: | 3edge trimming, 9 | :62, 9 | :64edgebanding, 96:62 .edges of

f i l l ing,87:57edgingEuroply launched, 84:26router bits,99:29edgings,87:5f58fi nishing, 88:46, 89: | 2F | 22for dovetails,98: l6high-density,98: l6jigsawing

sans splinters,89:20laminating,95:78notched joint,96:64red-oak

choosing,88:3!44ripping,86:59rotan/-cut vs. plain-sliced,88:36-44sguaring up,89:58supports for

board,99:82l-beam, 9 l :60, 9 l :6 l, 9 l :62

Pneumatic brad andfinish nailersanatomy of,79:44bf owout, avoiding, 79:47bf owout, repairing, 7 9 :47features and types, 79:43-49impact mark, avoiding, 79:45sources, T9:49Pocket-hole joineryc lamps,97 : l6Pocket-screw ioinerywithout aiig,82:17Polyurethanecreating a custom sheen,78:8waterborne

adding color,80:102best brush,82: | 04sources. 80: | 02

Poststurned two-part

making,85:58-65

Powermaticbandsaws

revie*ed, 88:88{9,9o.2F27drill press | 170

reviewed,86:68-75drill presses

reviewed.90:36-37jointer PM 54A

reviewed,89:94iointers

recommended,90:56planers

reviewed,90:79abfesaw 64 4,95:46tablesaw 64A, 96:38, 96:48,96:5G-5 |Primaveraquali t ies ol 99:102Profile shapingwith disc sander,86: l3Proportionscalculating

device,92:83Protractor/depth gauge,source,78:64Pullsbrass

source,87:89calculator, 92:83carving, 39:24from aluminum stock, 96:6 I,96:67instal l ing,92: I l6Push blocks, right-angle, 85:52Push blocks and padsfrom concrete float pads,82: I 6sources,79:59Push sticksfastening with magnets, 8 l :37pictured,85:83Puzzlesknog 87:82-€5magic coin, 87:82, 87:8&€9scrol f -saw 87: 66, 87 :7 2, 87 :7 3

-Rabbeted jointslocking ficr draryers, 84:9 | -94Rabbetsfor glass,88:8 |for round frame,99:78lock

with router,92:6f63on tablesaw, 89 :58, 9 6:62on tablesaws, 9 | :77,9 | :9 |trimming

with router, 9 l :82, 9 l :83with router, 88:6 l, 98:8 |with tablesaw 94:66Racksdrawer,96:26drying

for knobs,85: | 08finishing,88:52for damping,9S:42for portable tools, 98:42for tablesaw blades, 85:44for turning tools, 96:20knife

making,85:92-93lumber

with under-slung drawers,

Ragshazards of oil-soaked, 78: | | 0overhead dispenser; 82:36what makes a good,78: | 06-107Random-orbit sandersdust collection tips, 80:64Raspssandpaper

making,92:22sources, S0:6 |Reclaimed lumberchecking for embedded meal,84 :1 8

Red oakdecay resistance comparedto white oak,8l:8Reed moldings, T8:8G€2Refinishingglue-up for

before stri ppin g, 86:7 6Repairs, fillers, 9 l : 1 28Resawingavoiding warp after,79: l4bandsaws for

recommended ,90:.2F27,90 : l l8

for bookmatching 88:78, 89:53on a bandsaw, S l:45-5 |

accuracy tips,8l:4F50trick 88:23Respiratorsorgan ic-vapor cartridge

storing,8l:90Restorationof bureau,96t70-78Roller standsdouble-duty, 95:88folding

supports, 89:22-23pivoting

reviewed,94:39with vise

reviewed,92:35Roller supportsdrawbridge-type, 87 :94supplies for

source.87:94Rolling pin, turned,79:24-34Rosewood, allergies to, 99: l8Rotary toolsbase for

routen94:22Router bitsbushings, sources, S l :6 l , 8 l :69flush-trimming

withTeflon bearingreviewed, 34:24

reversible stile and rail cut-ters, using,78:72-74sources, 7 8:45, 8 | :6 l, 82:77

lock-miter,79:59point-cutting round-overbits,78:82radius type,84:89reversible stile and railcutters, TS:74

Router jigsfor dado cutting, 78: | 8, 7 8:48,80:28for diagonal routing,78:8G{2for dovetails

sliding dovetails, 84:86for jointing, 78:5 |tenoning, 34: | 6Router tables"recoverable" beads with, 87:26-router combo

reviewed,99:30adj ustments, 92:66, 92:68bases,92:69benchtop vs. fl oor, 92:64-65,92:66bit storage,85:46bit-height adiuster, 85:89Bosch folding tablereviewed, S4:26building 99:39-45cove with,93:8648curve-routint iig, 99:47dadoes on,96:83dust collection, SS:95end-grain jig 86:34, 86:35, 86:36featherboards, 85:82, 85:83,85:85features of,99:40fences,92:65-67

sub-,92:66,92:67for tablesaw extensions, 92:73gauges for

set-up,85:53guard for

freehand.99:47inserts

Excalibur EXRT2reviewed, 34:25

Power miter saws (conven- 85:44tional and compound) painting,96:88accessories, 33:58 Radial-arm sawsbuyer's guide compared to power

features and types, miter saws,83:5583:54-56 recalled,8S:32Ryobi reviewed,83: l4

capacity, determining yourneeds.83:55compared to radial-armsaws,83:55dust collection

after-market solutions, 83:57laser cutting guide, 83:26Power toolscaddy,79: | 00storage devices, 82:34, 82:36technological advances inportable, S3:30understanding horsepowerratings of, 78: | 4

Page 57: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year Index

joint-making, 92:73jointer fence, 85:3&-42loint ing on,87:54-55knock-down,89:3 |miter mini-biscuits with,85:54moldings on,96:82-83moldings with, 85:82-85on tablesaw extensions, 88:95olates for

advantages of,85:86J7angled,85:89mounting,85:9G-9 |perfect.85:88recommended, g0: | 23reviewed, 85:8&{9

pull-out, 79:104push-block for

right-angle, 85:52raised panel doors on,86:32-43recommended,90: | 23rounding over with, 93:65,93 :70 ,93 :88routers. 97:7.99:28safety features,92:68shaper-like

reviewed,89:92sleds.99:47slots on.88:49spring boards,92:26tablesaw-mount

reviewed, 35:30tabletops, 92:67-69template routing on, 87:6 l,87 :63, 87 :64, 87 :7 8, 87 :7 9

feed direct ion,8T:79templates,93:70tested.92:64-73Routersbases for

dust col lect ion,83:89removable.83:88shop-made,8 l :37

"body-grip"reviewed, 92:28-29

3-HPreviewed,90:123

accessories. 85:73. 85:75as biscuit joiners, 85:53base plates for

making,85:20bases of

removable. S5:7 l . 89: 1 00bearings for

graduating with,85:84bit acceptance of , 85:72brushes of

replacing, S5:8buyer's guide, 83:85-89

Makica RD | 100 reviewed,8 3 : 1 2reviewed and AW rated.78:76-79

circle iig,94:72cl imb-cutt ing with, 99: l0col lets of,85:72

self-releasing, 85:75cordless

reviewed,89:90crosscufting with, 78:48dado baseplate, 35:52dado iig,96:22dadoes w i th ,9 l :9 |

angled,94:76depth gauges,92:79depth-of-cut adjustmentsfor,85:73-74developments in,83:87dovetails with

s l id ing , 85 :14 ,85 :53dust collection, 92: | 0, 9 6:27dust collector for

reviewed, 35:36features of,78:76-77.83:85-86, 90:93-95,97:83-85, 97 :88, 99:64-67feed direct ion,90: l6flush cutting with, 9 l :82, 9 l :83fl ush-trimming jig, 87:58for router tables. 97:7. 97:85from roary rcols,94:22in end grain

centering,85:63

joint ing j ig, 89:58, 98:2 |lever locks,85:75mid-size

reviewed, 85:70-76, 89: 1 00mid-sized

reviewed,90:122moldings with, 85:82-85

fluted, 85:82. 85:85mort ises with. 92:50. 92:52mort ising with

j igs, 85:5G-5 l , 85:60,85:6 |stop blocks,85:60

new improved,96:30noise ol 85:73plug-trimming jig, 89:25plunge

for tables,96:28reviewed,92:30

power of,85:72-73rabbets with,88:6 |recommended, 90:96recommended 200 l , 92:1 04recommended 2003, 97:86reviewed, 99:64-7 |rounding with a,78:20safety with,90: l6sizes ol 90:92-93sparks from

diagnosing, S5:8speed chart, 92: | 7speed controllers, 86:8soeeds of.

variable, 85:7l-72squaring up with,99: l6table-mounted, vs. shaper; 83:22table plates for

recommended 200 1,92:104template guide bushings, 85:73Rubbing out,process ol 88: | 6Rulers, storage,88:96RustPreventing

with corrosion inhibitors.8 6 : 1 0with dehumidif iers, 86: l0with si l ica gel,86: l0

-Safetydust hazards

health effects ol80:104Uniform MechanicalCode standards.80:67

Prevenring static electricitysparks, 80:26, 80:67Sanders-dri l l -press combo, 97:38disc

template sanding with,86: l3drum

discussed, 93:39-45double, 93:48,97:42features of,97:.4143paper saving with,98: l7qualities of, 90: l8recommended,93:50-5 |reviewed,93:38-5 |single-drum closed-end, 93:47single-drum open-end, 93:46vs. planers,90: | 8

drum frugality,39:24osci l lat ing-spindle sanders

reviewed,90: l2 |random-orbit

features of.97:77-78recommended 2003,97:7&-79

sp ind leand dri l l press,89:96

Sanders, belt-pol isher,97:80detai l ,97:80features of,97:-79finish,97:80recommended 200 l , 92: | 04recommended 2003, 97 :7 9Sanders, drumcleaner for

reviewed,94:40Sanders, oscillating spindlerecommended 2001, 92: 104Sanders, portable

beltfeatures ol 90:8&49recommended, 90:89-90,9 0 : l 1 8

random-orbitrecommended, 90:8G{8,90 122

types of,90:85-86Sanders, random-orbitrecommended 200 l , 92: | 04Sandingblocks

profiledmaking,85:84, 95:39

sources. T9:56end grain,79:54hand.78:23inside corners, 32: | 7Dads

fl exible, sources, 79:56scratches from

exposing, 88: I 4small pieces,80:32Sandpaperdispenser, T8:22file storage, 32: I 4folding, 85: 109high-quality, 96:29mounting, 93:68,98:70overhead dispenser, 82:36reinforcing, 9l:20saving,98: I 7sources, T9:56

for "short" rolls. 78:22unclogging, 8 l :92Sawbladesbandsaw

features of, 9 | : | 04-l 08recommended,9 | : | 08-l l0r e v i e w e d , 9 l : l l 0sett ing,9S:28types o f ,9 l :103-104

combinationsources,95:28dado

carrier, 93:96, 93: I 08recommended 200 | ,92: 104

dado stackingchoosing, S6:56recommended,90:|'24reviewed, 86:53-56

for aluminum, 86: l0for melamine.9T: l2jointer-quality, 97: | 2stabi l izers, 95: l0stiffeners, 95: | 0tablesaw

sett ing,9S:28tightening,95: l2Sawdust. as mulch.92: l2Sawhorsesfl ip-top, 93: l8knockdown and folding, 79:102making, 96:52, 96:54-55nest in8 ,8 l :38stacking, 39:30

making,94:9 |Sawing, of mult iples, 9l: l8Sawsdovetai l .90: l9edge protection,94:29

Japanese-sryle, 90: l9veneersource.87:89Saws, compound-mitera luminum wi th ,86 : l0laser for

reviewed, SS:30stand for

bui lding,87:36Scrapersburnishing, 78:104cabinet

sources, 30:6 1,80:68edge protection,94:29sharpening,80: | 07sources, S0:6 | ,80:58squaring edge, 82:79, 82:8 |storage, 33:96Scratches, minuteexposing, 88: | 4Screw extractorshol low

us ing ,85 : | 0

Screwdriversright-angle battery-d riven,98:32Screwsbroken

removing, 35: l0broken-through

Fix,88:82coarse-thread

loinery with,87:37driving in t ight spots,78:22extractors for

rev iewed.9 l :34galvanized

source,93: | 08making good joina with,79:62paint bleed-through with

fixing,86:49pilot holes,86:48pocket, 89:59-42,9 l :65, 9 l :66,9 l : 7 9 , 9 1 . 8 1predri l l ing, 94: l4removing, SS: l8sheet-metal

lor grip,9l:94stainless

source ,86 :5 l ,87 :65wax, 86: l4Scribingadjacent edges,78:60cabinets between walls. 78:60cabinets to walls, 78:59Scrollsawsblade changing, 87 :68-69blade paint ing,94:26blade-threading slots, 95:26blades for

choosing, ST:74controls, 87:69-70dust management,87:70extending the useful life of,7 9 : 1 6features oi 90: | 0 l-l 02,97:91-93.97:94mul t ip les w i th ,9 l : l8recommended, 90: | 02- | 03,90:123, 92:104.97:94reviewed,ST:66-74speeds,87:70tables,87:70types of,90: | 0G-l 0 |vibrat ion with,87:69Scroll workfinishing bath,92:27Sealersshellac as.92:34sources, 79: | 0Sectors, making,92:83Sewing cabinet,Shaker.84:82-89Shafts, mounting, 98:7 |Shaker stylesewing stands, desks, andcabinets, 84:82-89tools and supplies, 84:89Shaperscompared to table-mountedrouters, S3:22with router

reviewed. S9:92Sharpeningedge tools,82:78-8 |gauge for

making,92:8 |hollow-chisel mortisingattachment. 78: l0lapping plates, 98:62, 98:64,98:65,98:68machines for

recommended 200 | . 92: I Mreviewed, 89:76-€ I

of carbide bits,92: l7of marking-gauge knives, 92:79scrapers, S0: | 07system for

drill-press, 98:62-74testing for sharpness, S2:8 |tool holder,98:64-73Sharpening machinesrecommended,90:124sharPening stoneswaterstones

flattening,82:8 |holders.82:79

Sheet goodscrosscutting, ST:37dolly,86:26r ipp ing ,87 :37sawing rack,80: | |storage,8T:96Shelf supportsbrass, sources. T9:77using biscuits, 32:59Shellacdewaxed

applying, 78:107instant,80:98source,92:34

Shelvescleats,87:38display,89:84€9glass, 98:79, 98:85, 98:87heavy

supports,99:84installing, 78:56-61metal upside-down, 98:40p in ho fes ,9 l :67 ,91 :79pin-hole iig, 98:80, 98:83, 98:84plate-joined, 98:50sink-cabinet, 85:92. 85:94stiffening

with edging,87:58support holes, dri l l ingaccurately,T9:74wall

display, 78:52-55free-form,80:34

Shimsaluminum tape, 93:24, 93: | 08source,87:94Shingles, layingon box,94:80Shop vacuumsbuyer's guidereviewed and AW rated,80:69-73features,80:70muffling noise from,7 9 : l l 5 - l l 6plastic liner, source, 80:64recommended,90:.124tool-actuated, 97:8

switches. 80:7 |Silicon putty, sources, T9: l0SL I E, defined,82:70Slats, spacing, ST:80Sledscrosscut,93:66

gang,93:64for router tables. 99:47small-piece, 93:82, 93:84taPer

for planers,93:68for tablesaws.93:66

sliding compound-miter sawsadvantages ol 84: | 00- | 04buyer's guide

reviewed and AW rated.84:9&-109

fea tures ,34 : l0 l -102Slotson router table, 99:52, 99:55,99:75on router tables.88:49Smoke alarms,dust and,80: | 04Snipe, el iminating, 79:85Solventschoosing,96: | 6Sound Safety ProductsOptimuff

reviewed, 92:92,92:95Spanish cedarpreferred for cigarhumidors, 78: l0Spirespyramidal

making,94:76Spline jointsfor drawer runners. 92:58making, 93:83, 93:84on router table, 99:.7 4-7 5Splinesj ig,88:50Spokeshaves,sources, 30:6 |Spray painting and finishingtechniques and equipmentfo r ,8 l :92

78 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r t u L v 2 o o 3

Page 58: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

3-Year lndex

Spring boardsas fences,92:26Squarenessby feel,92:83by fol f owi ng kerIs, 92:27checking,9 l :56drafting triangles, 92:78for large pieces, 99: 1 6,99:4243Squaresbuying, 90: | 4storage,88:95Stainsapplying bright-coloredstains,82:106chemical

for cherry,93:58,93: | 08ebonizing, S6:76for blemishes,95:24for concrete. 36:8gel

corner removal, 39: l2on plywood,88:46

over figure, 89: | 20- | 2 IStamps, source,92:82Standsgarden weighted, 98:54-59Staplesand brads

combo gun,86:22,80:67Stave constructionbird's mouth joinery, 92:32Steel, rod stock source, 80:38Steel woollife of

prolonging,88:2 |steel-free. 98:36Stippling tool,shop-made,82:16Stock preparationmarking, 92:76-83process ol 98:78

Stoolsnested,78:47Queen Anne footstool,80:4&-54Stop blocksworkbench

from old deadbolt 79: l6Stopsdoweling jig as,93:20for angles,98:56for dadoes,98:69for routers.99:46quick-action

reviewed, ST:24Storagebehind stairs,95:90drawers for

between studs,87:94for lumber,85:44for small para,98:25in bottlesfor the shop

carts and caddies, 79: | 00drawers, rolling,80:8lumber racks.84:44overhead, 34:46power tools, 79: 1 00, 82:34,82:36hanging,89:32

rack-hung drawers, 85:44shelves for

upside-down, 98:40tool "book," 79:100under bench.95:92walls for

reviewed.9l:35Straightedgesholders,85:22shop-made,83:128-129sources, 33: | 29test,83: | 30Surface preparation

for glue, 96: l4for stains,88:46Switchescombining,95:20magnetic

safety o( 96:39,96:40Sycamorequalities of, 98: I l4

-T-nutsfor drawer pul ls,85: l6Tablesaprons,92:54-55Arts and Crafts style

small ,94:5&{7assembly

folding,85:48buifding, 87:7640materials list.87:79workstation, 8 | :62-65,84:74-78

coffeetwo-d rawe red, 92:48-59

dininghow to size.82:24-32farm style,82:6&-77

folding shop, 93:7 4-7 9, 99:80kitchen work

building, 87:76-80materials list,87:79

legsfactory-turned, sou rces, 82-Zmortising tapered, 8 l :60quick utility legs, 78:23turned.82:4246

outfeeddrill-press, 88:94

parlor,79:5G-56pedestaf ,80:74-78picnic,80:74-78rails,

curved,87:.78-79

shelves.94:65side

Greene and Greene-style,8l:52-6 |

stretchers, 9 4:62, 9 4:63, 9 4:64trestle

how to size,82:3G-32utility

knock-down.86:30Tablesaws| 20v x 240v 95: | 6240-volt.96:4 |120-volt

reviewed,96:36-5 |accessory storage, T9: | 00arbor-washer fl attening, 96:24bases for

mob i le ,9 l :4 |mobile storage, 9l: I l2

benchtop,95:49blade guards

sources,83:74blade t i l t .83:76bevel gauge,94:66blade spacers, 88:67, 88:70blade storage, 35:44blades and cutters

dust volume and,80:68blades for

dado,86:53-56blades of

angle setter,85:32squaring,92:78

buyer's guide, 83:72-76cabinet

reviewed, SS:28cabinet left-tilt

reviewed, 93:30, 93: | 08choosing, 96.,3642crosscut sled, 87:37, 87 :4243,89:58crosscuttint

tables,78: | 7 correctiondadoes on, 85:94, 85:95, 89:86,9 l :76, 92:5G-5 l, 92:53,98:6&-69developments in,83:75dust collection, S0:66

impact of blade selection,80:68

features of,83:72-73,90:9 l,:90: 1 07, 97:98-1 00

grooves ongang cutting,9 l:93stopped,88:58

guards fordust-collecting, 88:34easy-mounting, 95:47overarm. 9l:4 |

hybrid, 95:44-45, 97: l 0inserts for

zero-clearance, 88:67, 93:84kerfing jig,93:83lap joina with,92:56left-tilt,95:46miter gauges, sources, 83 :74mobile base,87:94notches with

safely,87:80octagons on,88:22parts sources, 9 l:45prices of,95:47rabbeting iig,94:66rabbets on, 89:58, 9 l :77, 9 1 :9 1raised panels on, 95:34-40recommended 2003. 97: | 0 Iresawing splitteri 96: l0rip fence-miter gauge use,87:77ripping j ig,9l:84router tables on.85:30router-table extensions, 92:73SawStop saleq,97:6sleds for

gang-cutting, 93:64miter.96:84-85small-piece, 93:82, 93:84

spl ines oni ig,88:50

splitteri 97: l2spl i t ters, 9l:40squeaking

s i l e n c i n g , 9 l : 1 4storage rack,9l:41

storage undertrays,87:98

switches,95:48table insert for

tape temporary,S5:22taper jig,88:78,89:86tapers on,92:50,92:53tenon jig, 88:6G-69, 88:7 I,88:73throat plates, 95:29, 95:50-58

zero-clearance, 9 l:4 |types of, 90: | 05- | 06vibration with

reducing, 9l:4 |wrenches,95:46Tabletopsattachment methods, 94:64,94:67,98:84fasteners for

metal,94:64fastening,80:26for router abl e, 99:4 l, 99:4243making,92:49-50slots and buttons, 87:78, 87:80slotted, 9S:55, 98:57squaring up,99: | 6Tack clothsfi nish contamination with.8 6 : 1 0Tamboursreplacing

t ip ,93 : I l6Tapeacid-free,88:55clamping with, 89:7 l, 89:74double-faced

for hinges,93:88, 93: | 08source, 87:65, 93:88,93: | 08

Tapedouble-stickinS, sources,

78:54,79:56Tapering legson a iointer,84:126Tapersclamping,89:74j ig,89:86jointer techniques,84: | 26on bandsaw. 39:89on planers,93:68on tablesaw 93:66

j ig,88:78p lan ing ,9 l :69tablesaw jig, 92:50, 92:53with circular saw. 98:57Taps, using, 98: | 4, 98:72Taps and dies, metal-threading, sources, 80:38Templatestape, 87:6l, 87:65toggle clamps,93:70Tenonsangled,93:62-65fitring, 88:73, 88:74haunched, 92:50, 92:53,92:54-55loose,99:5 l ,99:52-53mort ising,85:6 |mitered,ST;77on router.84: | 6on tablesaw.8T:77

jig,88:6G-6 |round

cutter.99:6shoulders, 88:7 | -72, 88:7 4tablesaw jig, 88:66-69, 88:7 I,88:73,92:53turned,85:64Thickness gaugeshop-made,80:30Thickness planersbenchtop (also calledportable)

reviewed and AW rated,79:83-87

dust collection improvements,80:62-63features and types, 79:83-€6Thompson'sWater SealAdvanced Wood Protector.94:36Threaded insertsdrivers, 86: l4

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technology is virtuallyunaffected by wood

temperatureor surface moisture.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 59: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

ComlngUpin AW #l0z,Sept. 2003

What'sI

I

Arts and Grafts TableJon Stumbras is assembling the pieces of a small round table,perfect for putting next to your hvorite big chair.lt's gotcontemporary lines, but is actually a scaled-down version of ahidden gem from the American Arts and Crafu movement,made 100 years ago by the Limbert Company in Holland,Michigan.

Brad Nailer Tool TestWhat's the reol difference between a 950 and a 9300 bradnailer? Tim Johnson has vowed to find out in our next tooltest. He's poking and prying into virtually every l8-gauge naileron the market.

Simple Kitchen UpgradesDont you wish you had designed your own kitchen cabinets?Think of all the cool ways you could make them more roomyand useful. MacWentz has three simple projects that turnordinary kitchen cabinets into custom-built problem solvers.

Go Anywhere Drill GaddyBits, drivers, countersinks, extra battery: where is all thatstuff when you need itl Jan Carr is putting the final toucheson a small carrying box that organizes all the essentials fordrilling and driving.

Foolproof Scraper SharpeningDoes it feel like your card scraper only works half the time, and youcant figure out why? Tom Caspar is taking the mystery our of how tosharpen this incredibly useful tool, using what he calls the worrd'ssimplest jig. He says that any woodworker can make shavings like thosepictured here the first time out of the gate.

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9 1A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L y 2 o o 3

Page 60: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Sou rces Where to buy ar the

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Better Brush CleaningWilson-lmperial Co., (800) 332-6050www.wilson i mperial.com

Rapid Brush cleaner; $8 per qt.

Wooster Brush Co., (800) 392-7246www.woosterbrush.comBrush comb;$8

Flood Co., (800) 321-3444www.floodco.com

Brush Stuff brush conditioner; $7 per qt.

When Should I Sharpen My Blade?

Woodworkerl Supply, (800) 645-9292www.woodworker.comOxisolve blade cleanen#828-418;$9 per 8 oz,

Drawer Slide Tracing JigWoodworker's Hardware, (800) 383-0 | 30www.wwhardware.com10" drawer slides, #KV8400-B l0; $ | 3 pr.

Rockler, P00) 27 9 -444 l, www.rockler.com36".#21746,T-slot track; $ l0 ea.l8-5/16' x l - l /2"T-s lot bol t ,#833 | l ; $ l ea.T-knob,#71514;$l ea.

Mobile Magnetic LightWoodcraft, (800) 535-4482www.woodcraft.comMagnetic work light, #09L06; $25

LongTenoning SledHighland Hardware, (800) 24l-6748www.too I s-fo r-woodwo rki ng.comToggle clamp, # | 66 105; $7

Handy Dandy Craft SticksGramco School Supplies,Inc., (800) 788-5250www.gramcoonline.com#2499;$3 for 1,000

Price-Cutting SawDelta MachinerX (800) 438-2486www. deltawoodwo rki ng. comMS250, 10" Compound Miter Saw;$100Kink-Free, Lightweight Air HoseCoilhose, (732) 390-8480, www.coilhose.com| 1 4 " x 2 5 ' c o i h $ | 8l14" x25'stra ighu$19Rock-Solid Coping SledEagle America, (800) 872-251|www.eagle-america.comOriginal Coping Sled; $40Replacement Guide Block; $ l0Pro Model Coping Sled;$60Replacement Guide Block; $ l5Space-Saving Cyclone SystemOneida Air Systems, (800) 732-4065www.oneida-air.com

$882; $977Online Carving Classeswww.2carve.com

Lab Safety Supply, (800) 356-0783

www.labsafety.comHalf-mask respirator, 3M 6000 series, # | 5255;

$ l2 (available in small, medium and large)Organic vapors/P | 00 fi lter cartrid ge, #34770;$ 2 1

Northern Tool and Equipment,(800) 556-7885, www.northerntool.comHalogen light, 500 watt, with stand, # | 60982-8226; $20.

LeeValley &Veritas(800) 87 l -8 1 58, www.leevalley.comTWo lron Pendant Pulls, 01A60.30; $6 ea.Two lron Oval Pulls,0lA60.40;$7 ea.Twelve PartWrap lron Hinges with MinaretTips, 0 | H3 1.50; $4 ea.One 18" Black Full-Extension Drawer Slide,0 2 K l l . l 8 ; $ l 6 e a .Four 3/8" x l/10" Rare Earth Magnets,99K32.03;$0.50 ea.Four 3/8" Cup for Magnets,99K32.52;$0.50 ea.Four 3/8" Washers,99K3262; $0.40 ea.One l/2"-high Roman Ogee Bit, 16J33.51( 16J33.01 for | 14" shank); $27One l/2" radius Cove Bit, 16J29.58 (16J29.08for l14" shank); $29One l/2" radius round-over bit, 16127.58(16J27.08 for | 14" shank); $28One f " radius round-over bit, l6)27.66;$57One l/2" flush-trimming bit, 16J09.58; $ l2One 45-deg. chamfer bit, 16J30-58 ( | 6J3008 forl /4" shank);$2|

Public Lumber Company, (3 | 3) 89 | -7125,

www.publiclumber.comTwo 3/4" birch plywood;$50 ea.Two 3/4" clear or knotty pine plywood;$70 ea.One l/4" clear or knotty pine plywood; $40 ea.50 bd. ft. pine ;$4 per bd. ft.

Adams Wood Products, (423) 587 -2942

www.adam swood p rod ucts.co m,Four 5" Maple Bun Feet,A0554-DS; $8 ea.

Woodworker's Supply, (800) 645-9292www.woodworker.comOne pintTitebond wood molding glue,921-971;$7One gal. sealcoat (shellac), I l9-459; $23

Woodcraft, (800) 225-l 153www.woodcraft.comOneTransTint Golden Brown Dye, 128482;$ l7

Minwax(800) 523-9299, www.Minw.x.comWaterbased Pre-Stai n Wood Conditioner | -qc; $8

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop(800) 228-0000www.woodwo rki ngshop.comTranfast water-soluble dye, HS3266, antiquecherry brown;$9 per I oz. bottle

Wood Finishing Supplies.com(866) s48-1677www.woodfi n i s h i ngs u p p I i es.co mZinsser Sealcoat dewaxed shellac (2-lb. cut);$8

Per qt.

stuff we used.

Dick BlickArt Materials(800) 828-4548, www.d ickblick.comVan Dyke Brown artistl oil0046 | -83 | 3 1.25 oz. tube; $5Liquin glazing medium00445- 1004 250 ml. Bottle;$9Norton Abrasives(800) 55 l-44 | 5, www.nortonabrasives.comStearated sandpaper3X High PerformanceAbrasive Paper| 00-, | 50-, 220-grit 3-packs; $4 ea.

Accuspray 22SP; $470(800) 696-0615,www.compl iantspraysystems.com

AmericanTurbine ATI 950; $530(877) 434-395 l, wwwm ikestools.com

Apollo A700;$600(800) 727-6553. www.advmachinery.com

Campbell HausfeldHVl000; $172 | HVl500;$215 / HV2000;$221HV2500; $32 | / HV3000; $430 / HV3500; $594(4 | 0) 692-6300, www.jackssmallengines.com

Capspray CS5 | 00; $575(888) 385-9969, www.o-geepaint.com

FuiiFuji Super; $500(94l) 6 | 3- l0 | 7, www.cheyennesales.comFuii Q3;$600(800) 645-9292, www.woodworker.com

Graco HVLP2500; $525www.o-geepaint.com(888) 38s-ee6e

Lemmer T-55;$425www.lemmer.com(800) s6r-6e08

Lex-Aire LX-30C;$595(800) 539-2473, www.lexaire.com

Rockler HVLP 1000; $ 100(800\ 27 9 -444 l, www.rockler.com

Titan TS40; $600(800) 338- | 042, www.jnequipment.com

Turbinaire MiniPro | 135; $550(800) 225- | | 53, www.woodcrafc.com

WagnerSoftspray 2900, $580 / Softspray 2600; $475Finecoat 2000;366 / Finecoat Plus; $255(228) 863-3942, www.gleempaint.com

TablesawTool DrawerWoodworker's Hardware, (800) 383-0 I 03,www.wwhardware.com22" drawer slides, #KV8400-B22; $ l2 pr.

GilmerWood Co, (888) 667-3979;www.gilmerwood.com, $ I 7/bd.ft.for Plainstock, $25 and up for figured stock; Note: $ 100

minimum order on lumber.

92 A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3

Page 61: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

Spectacular Wood and Where to Get ltI

Great

"Beeswing" is a great way to describe thefigur.e in this piece of Ceylon satinwood.Theshimmering "wings" combine with a deepyellow color and a soft, silky smoothappearance to create a truly stunning visualeffect.

Ceylon satinwood's unique look comes at aprelty stiff price. Figured Ceylon,satinwoodlike this runs about $25 a bd. ft.

od!

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r l u L Y 2 o o 3

Beeswing Geylon

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SatinwoodLoc-rk be,vond the str iking becsn' i t tg f tr lLrrc i t t ( lcvlcl t l sir t i t l -

n ood and xrLr ' l l f lnd scln-rething else vcry spccial-the colclr.

Cevlon sartinu,ctod has a beautifirl pale ycllotv to solt'lctl vcllorv

co lor o f ien accented rv i th darker s t rc i r l i s . I l t r t thc c t l t l les t

th ing abor- r t C lev lo t . t sat inrvood is th . r t i t tc / r r i ; t , . i ts co lor ,

cha r r s i nF , \ ' c r ' \ ' l i t t l c t t v c r t i r t t c .

Tl-rc col lrbit lat icl t l of stable color ancl sprgtl lcl t l t l r f lgLrre i :

u,hit t r lade ( levlorr satinwood one of thc "qrcat n,( 'rodS" ct l- thc

I8t l-r-century t-t- t i lstet 's. Earlv cabittetrt taltcrs r-tscd sati t l tvooci

veneers to crettte str-t t t t- t i t- tg effects. (,evlorl sat i l lvclod is st i l l

largel,v used as it \/crlccr. llLrt solid n'oocl is alstt itt dctrli.tncl, trot

onlv for cdging to nratch the vcttect ' [r l r t also for bt lx n-ral i i t tq'

tr-rrnings ancl as t ' i rre detai l in largcr priccc's.

Nanred tor i ts ntrtural satin-l i l<e sheetl , Ceylcl lr sat i t ln 'ooc1

is of ien f igLrred;A wavv, narro\\r r ibbort f igure is I l lost col l l l l lol l .

I lu t , anvth ing t ront I t ro t t le , roe, r ibbot r , brc tket t s t r ipe to the

bccst, ing f igr,rre f-etrtr,rrcd here calt bc fbr.rr ld i tr at ly sivct l trce.

Ilecsn,ing sintplV retbrs to rt prrot-tot-tltcecl bttt vcrv flrlc rllottlcc-i

f rgurc . L ikc the ray f ' leck in n 'h i tc oak, the bccsn ' i t ls is I l los t

pronollncec' l n,hen the n'ooc' l is c1rtarterstru'rt( ,e1' lorr sati t lvcrocl (Clt loroxS'lott sn' ielct l i r l ) grcltys ir l t Ie

c l rv dec id t ious fbrests o f Sr i [ -a t tk i r ( fbr r t tc r lv Cev lor l ) ar lc l

Sor- r thcrn Ind ia .

Ce,vlon satir lvoocl is as hard as eboltt ' , u' i th a specit ic gra\ '-

i t r , o i .80, so i t ' s a b i t o f a bear to Inach inc or u ,or l< rv i th har lc l

tools. l i -r t , Ceylon sart inrvoctd is u,el l behaved otr the lathc.

( levlon sart intvoocl gltres artcl t l r t is l-res ivel l . l lecar-rsc oi i ts

bcauti fr ,r l color, i t 's r-rsualh, givcn a Ir; ,r turet l f l r t ish n' i tholt t i . r t t t '

s ta in or dve. Sanding to 400 gr i t u ' i l l v ie lc l a g lass- l i l i c s t t t ' facc

that a lnrost doesn ' t neec- l a f l r t ish . A l ta t t r ra l o i l f l r l i sh r ' r ' i l l

dceper-r thc,vel lor,r 'color to prctduce t l wi lr l t t , att tbcr tcl l lc. /W

by Dave l '1un l< i t t r c l<

94

Page 62: American Woodworker - 101 (July 2003)

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Hair-RaisingFinish

r . ] pI had just built a -.-._: )lazy Susan formy in-laws. It wasmade from walnuttliat had lots of senti-mental value, hav-ingcomefrom r.r)a magnifi-cent t reethat onces tood ontheir familyfarm.I wanted

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the wood to lookreally special, so Ichose an oil finish, the kind you

brush on generously and allow tosoak in. Then you just have to wipeoffthe excess oil before it dries.

|ust after I'd slathered on the oil,Igot distracted by a lengthy phone call(from a fund-raiser, of course!).

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Unfortunately, the oil sat on the surface

so long it gottacky. Panicked,I grabbed

the nearest rag-from the old laun-dry basket where I store them-andbegan wiping furiously. Only then didIrealizethatAbby, the family cat, had

discovered that the laundry basket

table.We also had a number of oak pieces that appeared

to go to the coffee table that we were not making.

Tomorrow I'll to go to the lumberyard for more oak

and walnut. Next time, we'll highlight the parts we need

on the plans and check all the parts after rough machin-

ing, to make sure theyte correct, before we spend the

time on joinery!.Gary Arvan

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Edi ted by Tim f ohnson

made a perfect bed! My special finish

was a tacky, furrymess.Fortunately, more oil, followed by

wiping with clean rags, saved the day.My inJaws were thrilled with thelazySusan and Abby has lived to achieve

a ripe old age.Dave Prasuhn

Master PlannerMy two boys, Steven and Daniel, and I enjoy doing

woodworking projects together. We're currently making

oak end tables and a walnut sofa table from a set of

plans that I bought. The plans are for three tables-

we're not making the coffee table that completes the set.As project organizer,I deciphered the instructions and

assigned jobs. We labored many hours making legs withhand-cut mortises and tenons. Unfortunately, during

assembly we noticed that we had two walnut legs for one

of the oak end tables and two oak hgs for the walnut sofa

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If you have a woodworking blunder you're willing to share, send it to us. Youll receive $100 for each one we print. Send to:AV Oops!, American Voodwo"k"t, 29li Commers Drive, Suite 7OO, Eagan, MN 55121, br e-mail [email protected]. Submissions cant be returned and become oru properry upon accePtance and Payment.

'W'e may

edil submissions, and use them in all print and electronic media.

A m e r i c a n W o o d w o r k e r J U L Y 2 o o 3