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Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
AMISOFT® ECS-22W Amino Acid Based Surfactant
for Natural Cosmetics & Sulfate-Free Personal Care Products
In-Cosmetics 2015
Nana Haraya
Cosmetic Group Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
Innovation Seminars April 14th, 2015
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Outline
• Background – Natural and Sulfate-Free Trend – Challenges for Formulating without Sulfates
• Properties of AMISOFT ® ECS-22W
– Mildness for Skin – Skin Conditioning Effect – Foamability
• Applications
– Sulfate-Free Shower Products – Natural Shower Products
BSP-0060E-2
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
European Market Natural Personal Care Products
• The market has been growing at a fast rate. - Growing consumers demand for natural/organic personal
care products - New entrants and new product launches.
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Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Natural Personal Care Product Claims
Mildness
Free from
Eco-friendly &
Sustainable
Natural Green
DEA, preservatives, sulfates, PEG-derivatives silicones….
Harshness-Free Irritation-Free
Gentle
• Natural products feature a “free from” trend.
Skin Compatibility
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Impression
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Asia PacificL. AmericaM. East & AfricaN. AmericaEurope
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Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products
Source: Mintel GNPD
Rate
of N
umbe
r of N
ew L
aunc
h
Clai
m w
ith S
ulfa
te-fr
ee (%
)
Since 2007
• It has grown significantly and has spread to numerous regions in the last 3 years.
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products
BSP-0060E-6
“Amino acid” shampoo
“Surfactant”-free
Sulfate-free / non-sulfate
• Similar concepts are pervading worldwide – Sulfate-free / non-sulfate in North America – “Surfactant-free” in Southeast Asia – “Amino acid” shampoo in Japan
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Alkyl Ether Sulfates
LES (AES, “sulfate”) • The first choice for shower products / shampoos.
– Good foamer in a wide pH range – Suitable for liquid products in terms of solubility and thickening
property • Developed as a soft “mild” surfactant against AS (SDS) • Always contains certain amount of SDS as an impurity
When SDS is absorbed into the skin, it is known to cause protein denaturation, inhibition enzymes.
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SDS
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
What You Want?
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By shifting to Sulfate-free formulations
What You Expect
Labels with Sulfate-free Claims
Milder, more Gentle Products
Natural / Sustainable Message
What You DON’T Want to Give up Easy Formulations:
Viscosity & Transparent
Cost increase
Foamability
Struggling to make sulfate-free products.
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
R N H
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AMISOFT®
AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT
• AMISOFT® ECS-22W – INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Natural Mild with excellent conditioning effect
Performance
AJINOMOTO’s Sulfate-Free Surfactant Solutions
NEW
Eco-friendly & Sustainable
the desired properties as primary surfactant for sulfate-free products
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
AMISOFT® is Derived from Natural Origins
• AMISOFT®
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H2N COO-
COO-
Glutamic acid
HN COO-
O
COO-
Vegetable-origin fatty acid
Na+
Na+
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
AMISOFT® is Derived from Natural Origins
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H2N COO-
COO-
Glutamic acid
Vegetable-origin fatty acid
• AMISOFT®
• AMISOFT® ECS-22W is being produced in Indonesia, considering starting materials availability.
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Natural Foaming Surfactant AMISOFT®ECS-22W
Natural
Extremely mild
• Rapid Biodegradation Eco-Friendly
• Good performance at the skin-neutral pH (pH 5 ~ 6) High skin compatibility
• A comfortable and soft feeling to the skin during and after use with minimum skin dryness
Conditioning / moisturizing feel
• Suitable for clear products • Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious
foam
High performance
Ideal as a primary surfactant of sulfate-free products
NEW
12
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Properties of AMISOFT® ECS-22W
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
100 1000 10000
ECS-22SB
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Decyl Glucoside
CAPB
SLES
SMES
TC50 (µg/mL)
Mildness of AMISOFT® Cytotoxicity
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Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate
Cytotoxicity test of neutral red method. Tested as a 12wt% of solution. pH value was determined based on maximum foam volumes. TC50 : concentration causing a 50% growth reduction.
TS Data Sheet No. 0101-3940E
• AMISOFT® is an extremely mild surfactant.
AMISOFT®
Mild
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Biodegradability of AMISOFT ®
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7Days
Biod
egra
dabi
lity
(BO
D d
egra
datio
nra
te、
%)
LS-11
GCK-12
Sodium Methyl LauroylTaurateSodium Lauryl Phoshate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Laurate
aniline<Method>
OECD guideline (Modified MITI guideline) <Result>
Biodegradability of AMISOFT and AMILITE is better than that of other surfactants. (60% BOD degradation rate in six days) Reference : Kawasaki and Takino Fragrance Journal ,19(10), 45(1991)
TS Data Sheet No. 0101-0544E
Biodegradation Profile
• AMISOFT® is highly biodegradable.
AMISOFT®
AMILITE®
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Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Impact of AMISOFT® on Skin Moisture • AMISOFT ® does not cause skin dryness after heavy wash
<Test Surfactants> A : AMISOFT (10 wt% active) B : Sodium Laureth Sulfate (10 wt% active) TS Data Sheet No. 0101-2051E
0
10
20
30
0 2 4 6 8 10
Conductance(μS)
Wash Cycle
CS-22
SLES
AMISOFTAMISOFT®
BSP-0060E-- 16 :consecutive decrease in skin moisture.
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
• AMISOFT® does not remove skin natural moisturizers so much from skin.
Retain more NMF by AMISOFT®
0.0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2 amount of NMF before washing
N=4, mean±S.D.
Amino acids PCA
Rel
ativ
e am
ount
of N
MF
in th
e sk
in a
fter w
ashi
ng
SLES Soap AMISOFT® SLES Soap AMISOFT®
BSP-0060E-- 17 NMF:Natural Moisturizing Factor TS Data Sheet No. 0101-3630E
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
• Excellent foaming and foam stability
Foam Volume and Stability of AMISOFT® ECS-22W
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TS Data Sheet No. 0101-4070E
Foam
Vol
ume
(mL)
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
ECS-22W
SLES Sar CMT SSC CAPB CB LAA DPG
0 min. 5 min.ハンドミキサー法、35℃、水道水、1.2wt% active、pH 5.8 1.2% active, 35oC, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3),pH5.8
AMISOFT® ECS-22W
SLES:Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sar:Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, CMT:Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, SSC:Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, CAPB:Cocamidopropyl Betaine, CB:Coco-betaine, LAA:Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, DPG:Decyl Glucoside
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Applications of AMISOFT® ECS-22W
Benefits in Sulfate-Free Shower Products
Natural Shower Products
Mild Easy Formulations
Good Foamability
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
• A sulfate-free product with AMISOFT® is very mild.
Cytotoxicity: Sulfate-free Prototype Formulation
BSP-0060E-- 20
wt%Anionics (active) 6.0Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15.0Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4.7Citric acid pH 5.8Water balance
100.0
TS Data Sheet No. 0101-3930E
100 1000 10000
AMISOFT® ECS-22SB
Sar
Ise
CMT
SLES
TC50 (mg/mL)
AMISOFT®
Mild
Comparison (as primary surfactant) AMISOFT® Sar:Sodium lauroyl sarcosine Ise:Sodium cocoyl isethionate CMT:Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate SLES:Sodium laureth sulfate
Mild
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
KNS-054-21W (wt%)AMISOFT® ECS-22W (30%) 20.0COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 15.0SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (32%) 4.7GLYCERYL CAPRATE 2.0SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3PEG-150 DISTEARATE 0.4CITRIC ACID to pH5.8PRESERVATIVES 0.3WATER BalanceFRAGRANCE 0.05
100.0
Guide Formulation 1: Sulfate-free Shower Gel
Clear appearance
Suitable viscosity 7,700 mPa・s
• By using AMISOFT® ECS-22W, good viscosity and clarity can be achieved easily.
Mild Easy Formulations
BSP-0060E-- 21
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
• AMISOFT® product outstrips the sulfate product in terms of foam value and stability.
Foamability of Sulfate-free Formulation
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TS Data Sheet No. 0101-4110E
40
50
60
70
80
90
250
260
270
280
290
300
310
ECS-22WSar Ise CMT SLES
Foam
Sta
bilit
y (%
)
Foam
Vol
ume
(mL)
AMISOFT® ECS-22W
sulfate-free formulation
5% as is, 35oC, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3)
Foamability Mild Easy Formulations
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
• Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious foam • Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate
free products
Foam Appearance of Sulfate-free Formulation
SLES AMISOFT® ECS-22W
Foamability Mild Easy Formulations
BSP-0060E-- 23
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Guide Formulation 2: Natural Cleansing Formulation
• ALL Natural (ECOCERT certified) CSAN-5W (wt%)AMISOFT® ECS-22W (30%) 10.0DECYL GLOUCISIDE (30%) 10.0GLYCERYL CAPRATE 0.2DISODIUM COCOPOLYGLUCOSE CITRATE 5.0XANTHAN GUM 1.0CITRIC ACID to pH5.8CAE 0.2WATER Balance
100.0
Clear appearance Suitable viscosity 5,000 mpa・s
BSP-0060E-- 24
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Summary
AMISOFT® ECS-22W… – Natural – Eco-friendly & Sustainable – Economical – Mild with excellent conditioning effect
• Excellent foaming properties and luxurious creamy & dense foam
• Ideal as a primary surfactant can be utilized as main surfactants, or even as an additive.
• Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate free products
BSP-0060E-- 25
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Thank you for listening !
R N H
• AMISOFT® ECS-22W – INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT
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