All about Ammolite

Most gems used in jewelry are minerals or stones, formed by inorganic chemical

processes beneath the earth’s surface. These substances are prized for their geometric

beauty as well as their rarity, but some gemstones have their origins in life itself. The

World Jewellery [sic] Confederation recognizes only three “organic gemstones” -- amber,

the fossilized sap of trees; pearls, the hidden treasure of oysters; and ammolite, the

multicolored and iridescent shells of ancient sea creatures called ammonites.

Over 70 million years ago, North America was covered in a shallow sea, abundant with

marine life. Ammonites were mollusks that thrived in these waters and bore a distinctive

spiraled shell reminiscent of a tightly coiled ram’s horn. In fact, the name “ammonite” is

inspired by this shape: Pliny the Elder (d. 79 AD near Pompeii) classified these fossils

ammonis cornua ("horns of Ammon"), after the Egyptian god Ammon (Amun), who is

typically portrayed wearing ram’s horns.

While ammonite fossils can be found all over the world, only those found along the

eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains in the U.S. and Canada have an iridescent outer

shell as a result of replacement by aragonite. The iridescent phenomenon in ammolite is

caused by the interference of light reflecting off stacked layers of thin microscopic

platelets that make up the replaced aragonite in the ammonite shell.

The thickness of these aragonite platelets determines the colors present in the

sample. Thick, well-ordered stacks result in red; thinner, less well-ordered stacks present

as green; and blue hues are due to extremely thin stacks. Because a thinner layer of

platelets is more fragile, and rarely found undamaged, gems with blue or violet coloring

are typically more sought after and more expensive.

The organic nature of this gem means every piece is unique, and the variety of colors and

textures give every specimen a stunningly original look. Unlike cut gemstones, which

rely on their facets to reflect light and sparkle, ammolite is usually finished as a polished

cabochon, often in more natural, sometimes asymmetrical shapes. These rounded forms

enhance the organic beauty of the ammolite, a simpler cut allowing the color and

iridescence to take center stage.

Ammolite enjoyed a boost in popularity in the 1990s, when renowned feng shui master

Edward Kui Ming Li began calling it “the most influential stone of the millennium” and

“seven-color prosperity stone.” Some practitioners believe that each color present in the

gem resonates with a particular energy: For example, crimson stimulates growth and

energy; orange generates creativity and increased libido; green improves wisdom and

promotes business enterprises; yellow improves wealth; and blue promotes peace and

health. As a decorative element in the home or office, ammolite is thought to promote

prosperity and happiness, and, when worn on one’s person, as in a pendants or men’s

rings, the gem is believed to promote the flow of “Qi” throughout the body.

Whatever one’s spiritual beliefs, ammolite is an undeniably vibrant gem, and has been

embraced enthusiastically by jewelry designers all around the world. Designers who

favor a more natural, organic feel to their jewelry have long used ammolite in Damascus

steel rings, set it against the coastal beauty of mother of pearl, or paired it with irregular

textures like gold nugget jewelry. Ammolite is a perfect material for this aesthetic, and is

quickly gaining popularity. A splash of color so striking needs little embellishment, so

many designers favor a simple setting of white or yellow gold, perhaps accented by a

diamond or two. Fine jewelers such as Alaska Jewelry carry a wide selection of

ammolite jewelry.