arthur’s way, oughterard - intokildare.ie

INTRODUCTIONughterard (in Irish Uachtar Árd) means high place. It is anapt description. The relatively easy climb to the cemetery isdeceptive; when you reach the open ground in the

graveyard, you are rewarded with remarkable views of the plain ofKildare and a broad sweep of Leinster to the west, and the Dublinand Wicklow Mountains stretching away to the south. From the topof what remains of the round tower, one can see the Head of Howthin neighbouring county Dublin. The site is a National Monument.

EARLY HISTORYThe site is of considerable importance for its archaeology, historyand architecture. Saint Bríga (Brigid) is said to have founded themonastery in the 6th century. Her feast day is January 21. She isa contemporary of the better-known Saint Brigid, the patron saintof Kildare.

The road towards Lyons Hill was part of the ancient ‘slí’ routenetwork that traversed the country. These often followed higherground and gravel ridges (eskers) to avoid bogs. According toresearch, this is part of the Slí Dála, or ‘Way to the Assembly’. Itwould have led south into Munster from the Hill of Tara – animportant royal seat in Celtic Ireland.

The site itself is surrounded by a rough coursed stone wall, andcontains the ruins of a church and round tower. The currentchurch may date back to 1350, and was most likely built on thesite of an original, early-Christian monastic church. The originalmonastery was under the patronage of a local powerful clan whomade nearby Lyons Hill their base (Lyons Hill was the royal seatfor the Kingship of Leinster at times between 750 and 1050 AD).

In early Irish manuscript records (the Annals), the Vikings underSitric Silkenbeard burnt the monastery down in 995. A revenge ofsorts of was meted out by Brian Ború in the Battle of GlennMáma in 999, when the soon-to-be Irish king defeated thecombined forces of Sitric and Leinster at a site identified as a valleybehind Lyons Hill. Oughterard became a Royal Manor andBorough in the 12th Century. The ruined castle in the adjoiningfield to the west dates back to Anglo-Norman times, circa 1300.Records show that much of this area was given byDiarmuid MacMurrough, King of Leinster, to Richardde Clare, better known as Strongbow, as part of a dowry,following the marriage of Strongbow to Aoife,Diarmuid’s daughter.

THE SITE TODAYThe church is now entered through one of thewindows, as both original doorways serve asmausoleums. The 8th century round tower is one offive in Co. Kildare, and is composed of uncoursed,spalled limestone. The doorway and arched window areof granite. The tower is 9.6 metres from lowest ground

to highest point. It sits 2.65 metres above the present ground level,though it is likely that the ground level has been raised since thetower was originally built; typically, doorways to round towerswere always placed well away from the ground to provideprotection against attack. The single window at the second storeylevel faces south, echoing the design of the doorway.

HISTORICAL CONNECTIONSDaniel O’Connell fought a duel withJohn D’Esterre on 1 February 1815 inan adjoining field. D’Esterre died as aresult of his wounds, thoughO’Connell regretted the incident forthe rest of his life. A bouldercommemorating the event wasremoved, but was re-established in2007.

In about 1722-24, Richard Guinnessmarried Elizabeth Read, daughter ofWilliam and Catherine Read ofOughterard. William Read was atenant farmer at Oughterard who

bought a licence to sell ale in 1690,which meant that he probably brewedhis own beer. As he lived near themain road, (until the construction ofthe turnpike road in the adjoiningvalley in 1729, Oughterard wassituated on the main road fromDublin to Limerick and Cork)William Read most likely set up abooth alongside it, selling ale topassing trade to increase his farmincome. William and his wife Catherine are buried at Oughterardas is their daughter Elizabeth Guinness, née Read.

Opinion is divided over the date and birthplace of renownedbrewer, Arthur Guinness, sometime in 1724, or early 1725. Some

suggestions place the event in the surrounding locality ofArdclough, possibly in the Read homestead, whilst otherspoint to nearby Celbridge, where his parents lived in 1725.There is no doubt that he died in 1803, and his remains liewithin the ruins of the church, along with his wife and other

family members, including his wife Olivia and brother Richard.

We ask that you kindly respect the site, and the remains of thosefound within. The cemetery is still in use to this day,and is carefully maintained by the local community.

ARTHUR’S WAY, OUGHTERARDSTAGE 5: FROM LYONS ESTATE TO OUGHTERARD

Daniel O’Connell, alsoknown as the Liberator

Arthur Guinness

A view of the round tower some of the ruined church. ArthurGuinness’s plaque can be seen in the centre foreground

The final restingplace of ArthurGuinness and

extended family

The heavily-weathered stonemullions on theeast-facing gable

of the church

Left: Viking broadsword, typical of the style usedduring the time of the Viking raid at Ardclough

O U G H T E R A R D

Lyons Hill197 metres

Henry Bridge

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Henry Bridge

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YOU ARE HERE

Arthur’s Way is a heritage trail across northeast County Kildare thatfollows in the footsteps of Arthur Guinness. In just 16 km, it links manyof the historic sites associated with Ireland’s most famous brewers – theGuinness family. Visitors are invited to explore Celbridge - where Arthurspent his childhood, Leixlip - the site of his first brewery and Oughterardgraveyard - Arthur’s final resting place near his ancestral home.

The trail rises gently from the confluence of the Liffey and Rye rivers atLeixlip to the Palladian Castletown House estate and onto Celbridge. Itthen departs the Liffey Valley to join the Grand Canal at Hazelhatch. Thegrassy towpaths guide visitors past beautiful flora and fauna and theenchanting Lyons Estate. At Ardclough, the route finally turns forOughterard which offers spectacular views over Kildare, Dublin and theProvince of Leinster.

OUGHTERARD1. Boston Hill2. Ancient ‘Slí’ Route3. Oughterard Castle4. Graveyard, Round

Tower, and resting placeof Arthur Guinness

LENGTH: 16km approx.TIME: 3-3.5 hours walking; 1-1.5 hours cycling

GRADE: Easy. Generally flat with good surfaces. Inclines at Old Hill, Leixlipand Ardclough. Mix of footpaths, tracks, and canal towpath. Suitablefor family groups. Normal outdoor footwear can be worn.

Arthur’s Way is a waymarked linear route which can be enjoyed in either direction.

ARTHUR’S WAYRECOMMENDED ROUTEPOINTS OF INTEREST & DISTANCES

STAGE 1: Arthur Guinness Square, Leixlipto Celbridge Main Street

STAGE 2: Celbridge Main Streetto Hazelhatch Station

STAGE 3: Hazelhatch Stationto Lyons Estate

STAGE 4: Lyons Estate to Oughterard

WWW.ARTHURSWAY.IE

Log on to the website to get more information onthe route, downloadable MAPS and LEAFLETS, andan AUDIO GUIDE for your smart phone or tablet.

This project has been supported by Kildare County Council

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Please note: the graveyard at Oughterard is maintained bythe local community and is still in use. Please beconsiderate when locking bicycles or parking cars, and berespectful of the monuments and headstones within.

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Keep an eye out for the Arthur’s Wayinformation boards, fingerposts andmarker posts to help keep you on track