clark smith: #dwcc13 keynote

“The single biggest problem with communication

is the illusion that it has taken place.”

- George Bernard Shaw

Six Causes of the Bad Marriage

• Increased competition

• Technological revolution

• Paradigm shift in enology

• A social revolution in ethics

• Failure rate for technology

• Critical wine review has become bloodsport

Postmodern Winemaking Symposium

Sixty winemakers

rethinking the modern science

of an ancient craft. 

November 9 & 10, 2013

Santa Rosa, CA and via Webex

Day 1*Vineyard Enology: Vine balance, living soil, ripeness

*Fermentation & co-extraction

*Oenological oxygen

*Structure building & aromatic integration

*The Seven Functions of Oak

*America's Exploding Winemaking Diversity

*Cognitive Oenology: Wine as liquid music

Day 2*Yeast Inoculation Pros and Cons

*Microbial balance ("Integrated Brett Management")

*Reduction: friend or foe?

*Minerality

*Biodynamics

*Sulfite-free winemaking

*Natural Wines, manipulation, & technology

Small Wineries Are Confused

• Target the mainstream or the fringes?(10,000 cases requires passionate

acceptance by only 0.0001% of the market)

• What do Natural Wine consumers really want?

• What is manipulation?

www.PostmodernWinemaking.com

/full-disclosure-winemaking-practices

Vineyard Practices

• Organic Certification• Biodynamic• No tillage• No pesticides• No herbicides• Irrigation• Soil Food Web score• Extended hang time

Additions• Acid• Amelioration (water addition)• Tannin products• Enzymes• Fortification• Sulfites• Chaptalization• GMOs• Diammonium Phosphate (DAP)• Copper

Cellar Treatments• Bentonite• Yeast / bacterial inoculum • Animal products• Color concentrate• Velcorin• Inert gas• Oxygen• New barrel %• Non barrel oak adjuncts• Barrel wheat paste contact

Cellar Practices• Organic certified winery• Stainless steel only• Suppressed malolactic• Varietal purity• Residual sugar ("dry styles")• Non gravity (powered) racking• Alcohol adjustment• Micro-oxygenation• Centrifugation• Diatomaceous earth filtration• Sterile filtration

Bottling Choices

• Closure options • Recycled glass• Recycled paper labels• Bag in the box• Glass weight and carbon footprint• Appellation designation

ma·nip·u·la·tion (noun).

1. Treatment or operation with or as if with the hands or by mechanical means, especially in a skillful manner.

2. Shrewd or devious management by artful, unfair, or insidious means, especially to one's own advantage.

A Few Controversial Topics

• Yeast Inoculation

• Micro-oxygenation

• Alcohol adjustment via reverse osmosis

• Oak chips vs. new French oak barrels

Misconceptions

• Sameness: The Diversity Paradox

• Blaming the Tools

• Scoring via the 100-point system

Eight Natural Wine Constituencies

• Non-interventionist: “The best wine makes itself.”• Environmentalist: “Make wine sustainably.”• Conventionalist: “No weird stuff.“• Traditionalist: Prefers time-tested methods.• Health Conscious: Wine should be safe and wholesome.• Collector: Suspicious of experimental techniques.• Authenticity Purist: No additives. “Let’s taste the flaws.”• Terroiriste: Passionate about unique flavors of place.

How bloggers can change the world

1. Report what is in the bottle.

How bloggers can change the world

1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.

How bloggers can change the world

1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.

How bloggers can change the world

1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.4. Co-create a universal language for wine flavor

and style.

Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan

1. Agree on Flavour Terminology

Intensity Terms • Fruit Intensity 0-5• Sweetness 0-5• Body 0-5• Tannin grain 0-5• Plushness 0-5• Acidity 0-5• Heat 0-5• Vanilla 0-5• Cocoa 0-5• Toast 0-5• Butter 0-5• Herbal 0-5• Earthiness 0-5

Holistic Terms • Obviousness: Generous ------------------------Austere• Brightness: Energetic -------------------------Mild• Dimension: Complex --------------------------Straightforward• Charm: Aloof-------------------------------Inviting• Allure: Pretty ------------------------------Sexy• Drinkability: Ready-------------------------------Ageworthy• Architecture: Angular-----------------------------Rounded• Mood: Cheerful----------------------------Dour• Impact: Delicate-----------------------------Striking• Style: Elegant------------------------------Rustic• Maturity: Fresh---------------------------------Evolved

Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan

1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space

Barolo

MoselDolcetto

Medoc

Chianti

Savennieres

Beaujolais

Corton

Qvevri

Rheingau

Alsace

Rosé d’Anjou

Madiran

Nero d’Avola

Rosé de Provence

Rioja

Hermitage

Gevrey Chambertin

Chinon

Simplified 2-D Example Flavour Space

Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan

1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space4. Blog about it. Interpret the Flavour Space in

human terms.

Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan

1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space4. Blog about it. Interpret the Flavour Space in

human terms.5. Personal Sommelier: App that connects users

to their preferences

Personal Sommelier app

• User-named wine list categories “Fred’s Crisp Dry Whites”, “Fred’s Big Bold Reds”, etc.

• Individual personal algorithms anchored to the Flavour Space

Barolo

MoselDolcetto

Medoc

Chianti

Savennieres

Beaujolais

Corton

Qvevri

Rheingau

Alsace

Rosé d’Anjou

Madiran

Nero d’Avola

Rosé de Provence

Rioja

Hermitage

Gevrey Chambertin

Chinon

Simplified 2-D Example Flavour SpaceFred’s

Dry Whites

Fred’s Rich Reds

Personal Sommelier app

• User-named wine list categories “Fred’s Crisp Dry Whites”, “Fred’s Big Bold Reds”, etc.

• Individual personal algorithms anchored to the Flavour Space

• Selects recommendations from wine list or shop inventory uploaded to web.

• Access to peer reviews, winery stats, and awards

How bloggers can change the world

1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.4. Co-create a universal language for wine flavor

and style.5. Junk the term “manipulation.” Please.

Be Worthy.

Thank you

for your

kind attention.