core training & shoulder injuries sportclimbing · • olivier kleynjans – sportsfysio •...

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J O H A N D E C O N I N C K - A R T

CORE TRAINING & SHOULDER INJURIES SPORTCLIMBING

WHO WE ARE ? ANTWERP REHAB & TRAINING TEAM

• Johan De Coninck – Physical Coach

• Simon De Wilde - Sportsfysio

• Olivier Kleynjans – Sportsfysio

• Tom Van Meel - Sportsfysio

• Annelien De Mesel - Sportsfysio

• Raf Gysemans – Physical Coach

• Ansje Coart - Physical Coach

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WHAT WE DO ? CREATING ATHLETES

CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING

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CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURIESE.G. CLIMBING

• Common injuries:• Multidirectional instability

• (sub-)luxations (due to shoulder position)

• Impingement supraspinatuspees

• Overload rotator cuff tendons

• Common dysfunctions:• Scapular winging

ANATOMY SHOULDER

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ANATOMY SHOULDER

ANATOMY SHOULDER

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ANATOMY SHOULDER

ANATOMY SHOULDER LABRUM TEAR

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ANATOMY SHOULDER IMPINGEMENT

CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURYE.G. CLIMBING

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FASCIA

RE-TRAINING THE TISSUE

TENSEGRITY IN THE BODY

• Wat ?

• Hoe ?

• Waarom ?

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FASCIA

WAT HEEFT FASCIA NODIG?

• Kwalitatieve beweging ipv kwantiteit (volume)

• Vocht - PH ⬆ - dehydratie gevaar !

• Slide & glide van de lagen – lasagne

• Elastic Recoil

• Belasting over de full range of motion verdelen

• Triggerpoints “losmaken” doorheen behandelingen /

foamrollen / lacrossball

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FASCIA

WAT HEEFT FASCIA NIET NODIG ?

• Te veel isometrische training – statische overload

• Dehydratatie – overload alcohol – vet - suiker

• Verkorte bewegingen en slecht postuur

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CRAPPY POSTURE – CRAPPY FASCIA

• inactieve houding – negatieve gevolgen voor uw fascia

WHAT DO WE NEED ?STABILITY – MOBILITY & PILLAR STRENGTH

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PILLAR STRENGTH

Shoulder Complex

CORE

Hip + Lower Quadrant

CORE STRENGTHTHE FUNCTIONAL LINE DURING CLIMBING MOVES

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SPIRAL LINE

• Rotaties van laag naar hoog

• Rotaties van hoog naar laag

• Diagonale doorsteekbeweging met armen en benen

• Opduwen op 1 been

IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE

• Providing a stable base for the glenohumeral joint

• Pro-en retractie during ADL

• Enough elevation of the acromion through

overhead movements, avoiding impingement.

• Pre tension in the muscles attached on the scapula

• An important chain in the kinetic energy

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IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE

• functie trapezius

MUSCLE CHAINS – WEAK POSTURE

• Janda’s Upper-Crossed Syndrome• Cause of shoulder injuries: instability / bad posture

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SCAPULAR DYSKINESIS - WINGING

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PRO & RETRACTIE

• Protractie scapula• m. Serratus anterior• m. Pectoralis minor

• Retractie scapula• m. Trapezius (middle fibers, lower fibers)• m. Rhomboïdeus major / minor• m. Latissimus dorsi

• Krachtenkoppel: Serratus anterior & Trapezius

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PRO & RETRACTIE

ANALYTICAL ACTIVATION SERRATUS ANTERIOR

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CONTROL OF SCAPULA

PLYOMETRICS - ANALYTICAL

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COMBINATION RIB FLARE – WINGING

CONTROL OF RIB FLAIRE

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REFLEXIVELY STABILIZATION

• Proximal stability is necessary before maximum power is produced.

• Unconscious reactions and speed of contraction is more important than strength

• Muscle activation is more important than muscles strength

GLOBAL STABILITY: MUSCLE CHAINS

• Muscle chains & loops affecting the quality of range of motion through the link of the core and the extremities.

Benninghoff (1936)

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KINETIC CHAIN – ANATOMY LINES

PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT

• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE

• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical

• 3 Plyometrics

• 4 Movement Skills – Agility

• 5 Relative Power

www.rehab-training.be

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PILLAR PREP: MORE THAN PLANKING

PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION

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PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION

PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION

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PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION

PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT

• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE

• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical

• 3 Plyometrics

• 4 Movement Skills – Agility

• 5 Relative Power

www.rehab-training.be

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MOVEMENT PREP - ANALYTICAL

COMMON MISTAKES PULL UPS

• shoulder pain during pull ups

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PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT

• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE

• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical

• 3 Plyometrics – “SSC cycle”

• 4 Movement Skills – Agility

• 5 Relative Power

www.rehab-training.be

PLYOMETRIC PULL-UP

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PLYOMETRIC – ASSISTED PUSH-UP

COMMON MISTAKES PUSH-UPS

• how to do a proper push-up

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PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT

• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE

• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical

• 3 Plyometrics

• 4 Movement Skills – Agility

• 5 Relative Power

www.rehab-training.be

MOVEMENT SKILLS – AGILITY - MANTLE

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COMMON MISTAKES DIPINGS

dippings

PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT

• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE

• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical

• 3 Plyometrics

• 4 Movement Skills – Agility

• 5 Relative Power

www.rehab-training.be

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RELATIVE POWER: END PHASE !

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FUNCTIONAL SCREENING

Wat ? • Individuele benadering • Zoeken naar het oorzakelijk verband van

klachten• Beginner tot topsporter • Opmaken oefenschema / filmfragmenten• Prestatie bevorderend Duur – kostprijs ?• 1u – 1,5u• 75 € - klimmerskorting 60 € / screening

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CONTACT

www.rehab-training.be

Johan De Coninck

johan@rehab-training.be

www.rehab-training.be