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Deepa HingoraniTextile Sustainability Consultant

at PEFC International

Sponsored by

www.pefc.org

Deepa HingoraniPEFC Textile Sustainability Consultant

• Close to 25 years background in thefashion industry

• Experience leading product divisions atglobal brands such as Esprit, Hugo Boss,Karl Lagerfeld and By Malene Birger.

Currently Management Consultant in thefashion industry with focus on Sustainability,Brand & Strategy Management –

@ Deepa Hingorani Consulting Ltd.

The Global Fashion Industry

The total value of the fashion industry today is 2.5 trillion US Dollars which represents 2% of Gross Domestic Product.

It employs 75 million people globally

The Fashion Industry Today• The Industry is growing strongly, increase for

2018 expected to be + 4,5%.

• Consumption of garments has increased by 400% in two decades!

• Fashion is considered the 2nd most polluting industry in the world! (In reality ca 8th)

PEFC is committed to being a part of the solution.

Wood as a source materialWood is increasingly being used in consumer products:• bio-based• bio-degradable• sustainable

Ensure it is sourced from sustainably managed and certified forests.

Increase of 3 x expected by 2050 = Increased demand for wood based fibres for the fashion industry.

Clear shift of sustainable material sourcing policies, from focus on organic cotton and recycled polyester to bio-based materials, in particular man-made cellulosic fibres such as viscose.

PEFC eco-label reassures consumers on responsible sourcing of wood based products across sectors

So Why Wood Based Fibres? The leading wood based fibre suppliers are focusing efforts to improve the

sustainability of viscose fibres production.

Initiatives are being taken towards sustainable wood sourcing.

Improvements have been made in industrial processing technologies and practices and investments in innovation are being made for more sustainable production.

• Alternative to conventional cotton (under scrutiny for impact on land, water etc.)• Alternative to (recycled) Polyester• Natural fibre• More economical than luxury fibres such as silk

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Textile & Fashion - Market Drivers

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Consumer Mega Trends Growing world population and disposable income in emerging markets Sustainability has become an important new driver of consumers’ purchasing decisions

More than 65% of emerging market consumers actively seek sustainable fashion

The State of Fashion 2017, The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company

Challenges↓ Mitigate the environmental footprint

↓ Meet the emerging legislations and consumer & NGO pressure

↓ Manage supply chain complexity and lackof transparency

Opportunities↑ Increase use of sustainable materials

↑ Develop a sustainability strategy and responsible sourcing policies

↑ Implement transparency & traceability

Textiles Overview

Types wood-based textiles • Viscose (over 3/4) • Modal• Lyocell

% of wood-based textiles4 times smaller than cotton6 times larger than wool

Comparison to other textiles: Synthetics, e.g. polyester

• derived from fossil fuel and release micro-plastics• nearly 60% of all clothing produced ends up in

incinerators or landfills within a year of being made Cotton

• 75% is grown with extensive use of chemicals and water• strongly contributes to soil degradation

wood-based textiles a more sustainable solutionrenewable, biodegradable and recyclable

Pie chart source: Lenzing

Viscose* market drivers & opportunities

NGOs and media raise increasing concerns: could this growth compromise our forests and

contribute to deforestation or illegal logging

* Viscose and other wood-based fibres ** Data at 2018, source: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20180504005358/en/Global-Viscose-Staple-Fiber-Market-Analysis-Growth*** GrandViewResearch.com

5.6 M tons of viscose staple fiber is produced**

Asia-Pacific accounts for 62% of the global market

Projected growth +8% CAGR by 2025***

Responsible sourcing from sustainably managed certified forests is part of the solution

Wood-based material Certification in Textile - estimate

20 companies in Fashion Supply chain are PEFC Chain of Custody certified (October 2018)

How traceability mechanism for textiles works?

From sustainably managed forests to consumers

PEFC Forest Certification delivers:

From well managed forests:forestry operations have been conductedmaintaining and enhancing ecological,social, cultural and economic values

For healthy:• forest ecosystems• local communities• workers

PEFC Chain of Custody certification delivers:

• Legality: product is 100% legal origin

• Origin: from well managed forests enhancing ecological, social and economic values

• Traceability: the raw material supply chain is controlled and verified from the harvesting site up to the finished products

Accountability & impartiality principlesISO-based Certification Model

Standard setting

Independent certificationNational accreditation

Benefits of PEFC Chain of Custody certification

Meet legality

Support Sustainably Managed Forests

Meet private and public sector procurement requirements

Traceability solution for cellulosic-based materials

Largest source of certified supply

Use the PEFC label

PEFC Forests For Fashion

http://treee.es/forestsforfashion#forestsforfashion

‘Forests For Fashion’ InitiativeInitiative linking materials from sustainably managed forests with the world of fashion

A collaboration of organizations committed to promoting the sustainable management of the world’s forests and sourcing of forest fashion.

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2014 UNECE launches the initiative at International Day of Forests

2016 PEFC joins the initiative

PEFC and UNECE collaborate on fashion collection with Italian Institute of Design

PEFC collaborates with designer Maria Lafuente for Madrid Fashion Week

2018 PEFC partners with UNECE and FAO on number of events, including HLPF 2018

Michelle Yeoh supports the initiative at HLPF and becomes a spokesperson a short movie

Ongoing partnership with UNECE on Forests for Fashion Initiative:

• Joint activities at Regional Forum 2018 in Geneva

• HLPF 2018 in United Nations NYC, addressing policy makers & a reception with high level UN officials, Delegates, Ambassadors and Designers:

• Creating collections with designers with certified and sustainable

wood based textiles at the Exhibition.

• Collaboration with Michelle Yeoh, actress and UNDP goodwill

Ambassador, including a short movie in support of Forests for

Fashion

‘Forests For Fashion’ partnership between PEFC and UNECE / FAO

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- UN Environmental Assembly 2019 in Nairobi

‘Forests For Fashion’ partnership between PEFC and UNECE / FAO – recent activities

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• PEFC partnered with UNECE / FAO to present ‘Forests for Fashion’ exhibition at Sustainable Innovation Expo at UN Environmental Assembly, 10-15 March

• ‘Forests for Fashion’ initiative will be part of a wider effort of the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion unfashionalliance.org

• The Alliance aims to change the path of fashion from a social, economic and environmental concern to a driver for the implementation of the SDGs and the 2030 Agenda

• Shanghai Intertextiles, March 2019:

Presentation on the journey from sustainably managed forests to your wardrobe to buyers and suppliers of an international scale. Shanghai Intertextiles is currently one of the biggest and most comprehensive apparel fabric and accessories exhibitions in the world.

• Sustainable Apparel & Textiles Forum Amsterdam, The Innovation Forum, April 2019:

Partnership with the Innovation Forum for the conference

Panel on Traceability: How to trace, track and monitor beyond tier two

‘Forests For Fashion’– recent activities

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• Copenhagen Fashion Summit, May 2019:

Partnership with #CPHFS19 for the 10th Anniversary of the Copenhagen Fashion and part of the Innovation Forum, highlighted with a visit from HRH Crown Princess Mary of Denmark.

• 13th China Hangzhou Cellulose Fiber (Viscose) Industry Forum, May 2019

Session to be hosted together with UNECE: The importance of sustainably managed forests for fashion

Addressing suppliers from South East Asia, who represent almost 60% of the viscose supply chain

‘Forests For Fashion’– recent activities

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www.pefc.org

Caring for Forests Together

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