garment faults
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Garment Faults
Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshirID: 201000040000813th Batch (session 2009-2013)Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.comBlog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :
©right
Garment defects:
Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer
,is called Garment defect. These are defects that are found in the fabric;
mostly these are caused by the sewing lines.
Garment defects
Garment defects can be separated into three categories:
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the
sewing lines. E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark,
missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub , hairiness etc.
2. Workmanship and handling defects:
These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include
both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to
maintain perfect workmanship.
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
Garment defect categories
Remedies:
1. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
2. Sewing thread must be selected properly
3. Thread tension must be kept in limit
Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
Seam Puckering
Causes: This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam.
Remedies:1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.2. Placing of needle properly.3. The tension of thread should be adjusted.4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.
Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight.
Remedies:
1. Needle to be changed
2. Needle size and thread size should be changed
3. Feed mechanism to be changed
Causes: It appears due to improper handling
of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle
deflection or wrong needle etc.
Wavy/staggered stitching
Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
2. Proper handling of the parts of garments
Causes: This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc.
Open seam or broken seam
Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.
Remedies:
1. Proper machine usage
2. proper trimming
Broken Stitch
Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.
Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line.
Remedies: 1. Garments finishing should be checked properly.
Uncut/ loose thread
Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.
Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side.
Remedy:Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard cut pieces with usable ones before input.
Cause:Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either by improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric.
Holes
Shading Variations within different parts: Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the other seams surrounding it.
Remedies: After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number.
Causes: It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.
Shading Variations within different parts
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams are not lined up at intersection of seams.
Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production must be informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine.
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
Cause: Defects generally come about either from improper handling of the cut piece.
Others: Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong
placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into
cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.
Others
Sizing defects: (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section.
Poor ironing: if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.
misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.
Others
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.Defects are given below:
1. Unmatched color of thread2. Broken button and zipper tape3. Short zippers 4. Faulty zippers5. Wrong labels6. Improper size of the labels7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons 8. Broken poly bag 9. Wrong hanger10. Improper embroideries and prints. Etc.
Remedy: This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must be given as like as artwork.
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as
labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims.
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.
1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%).
2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers
requirements3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a
certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
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