part three merchandising: the execution click anywhere on the slide to view the next item on the...
Post on 17-Dec-2015
216 Views
Preview:
TRANSCRIPT
Part Three
MERCHANDISING: THE EXECUTION
Click anywhere on the slide to view the next item on the slide or to
advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to
another page, close the presentation or open the help page.
Check for updates on the web now!
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
3
Line Development• Creation of a group of garment styles for a specific time
period (collection)• Process requires
– Understanding: Sense of market– Conceptualization: Quickly and effectively visualize new
styling ideas– Creation: Develop finished garment styles that meet the
expectations set forth in conceptualization stage through efficient design process
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
4
Successful Development Strategies
• Utilize new technologies and teamwork to synchronize process
• Apply interactive online fashion information services, integrated graphics, PDS, PIM, and video conferencing
• Focus on advanced communications and computer integration of data and process control with suppliers and producers
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
5
Creative Process
• Ability to visualize a concept that will capture the essence of a consumer’s buying urge almost one year in the future
• Merchandiser and product manager must understand creative abilities of design team
• Merchandisers and product managers must maintain control of the process (merchandising calendar/line development calendar) without stifling creativity
• Merchandiser and product manager must understand creative elements of design
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
6
Styling
• Styling involves creating concepts and theme direction for each line
• Stylist must be skilled in fashion illustration techniques
• Critical areas that affect styling direction are color, fabric, and silhouette
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
7
Design
• Design interprets the concepts developed by stylists into actual garments
• Craft: pattern design, grading, garment construction techniques, interplay of fabric, findings, and trims
• In small and medium-sized companies the designer performs the function of styling the line
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
8
Design Elements
• Merchandiser and product manager must have a thorough understanding of the elements of design– Color– Line– Shape– Texture
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
9
Color
• Has immediate and powerful impact on perception
• Different materials alter color
• Different weaves create different shades when woven with same lot of dyed yarn
• Management design decisions must be made concerning color standards
• After color standards are set, color computers can provide consistent results
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
10
Color Management
• Color management systems provide process and controls to maintain color consistency throughout a product line
• Merchandiser should establish color management criteria• Color theory is a complex science• Color can affect sales
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
11
Dimensions of Color
• Hue • Value• Intensity
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
12
Hue
• Scale of perceptions that range from red through yellow, green, and blue and circularly back to red (color wheel)
• Hues that affect perception of fabrics, which absorb light, are subtractive (pigment) primary colors yellow, blue, and red.
• Hues produced by a computer monitor are from emitted light, which are additive primary colors red, green, and blue.
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
13
Warm Colors
• Reds• Yellows• Oranges• Stimulating, exciting,
aggressive, cheerful, or lively
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
14
Cool Colors
• Blues• Greens• Purples• Quiet, peaceful,
refreshing, or reserved
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
15
Neutral Colors
• Tans• Browns• Grays• Black• White• Sophistication, do not
detract from other colors
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
16
Value
• Variation of light strength in a color• White is total presence of light• Black is total absence of light• Lightest values are tints: colors mixed with white• Darker values are tones: colors mixed with gray• Darkest values are shades: colors mixed with black
Tint Tone Shade
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
17
Contrast
• Contrasts of low- and high-value colors when applied to garments can create illusions
• Low value or light colors draw attention and create illusion of being larger
• Higher value or darker colors create illusion of being smaller• Light contrasted with dark draws eye away from dark area to
light areas
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
18
Intensity
• Strength or weakness of color determined by saturation or vividness of hue.
• Pure primary colors are most intense
• Intensity can be lowered by mixing primary color with another hue or gray
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
19
Color Notation• Standard system for referencing colors• Munsell and PANTONE® color notation systems are
widely used (color chips or swatches of various fabrics)• Many computer software applications are linked to
PANTONE® and Munsell color systems
www.pantone.com http://usa.gretagmacbethstore.com
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
20
Light Conditions
• Fluorescent, incandescent, or natural sunlight can cause fabric colors to take on different hues (metameric effect)
• Fabrics should be selected using a controlled viewing light that can duplicate different lighting conditionshttp://www.xenotest.de
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
21
Range or Colorway
• The colors that a line is offered in• Too few can result in lost sales• Too many can result in high development and
inventory carrying costs• Merchandiser and product manager often makes
final color decisions based upon line plan
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
22
Line
• Design element that determines direction of visual interest in a garment
• Visual path the eye takes when viewing a garment
• Created by placement and shape of parts, fabric prints or patterns, use of color, seam positioning, pleats, darts, tucks, folds, trims or even topstitching (long skirt, shirt placket, princess seam, bold double-stitched lap seam on jeans
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
23
Line
• Thin vertical lines or long diagonal lines add height and slenderize
• Broad horizontal lines widen the figure or cut it into shorter segments
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
24
Shape
• An enclosed space or boundary produced in two or three dimensions
• Silhouette in two dimensions
• Body style in three dimensions– Fitted to follow natural
curves– Oversized to hide the
body– Triangular to exaggerate
a body part
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
25
Texture
• Surface variations• Fiber type• Yarn structure• Fabric construction• Fabric finishes• Skilled stylist or designer can use texture to
create dramatic contrasts or fluid continuity
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
26
Design Principles
• Gestalt psychology - Perception with eye and brain defining visual images as a pattern or whole rather than the sum of finite component parts
• Elements of design can create visual perception
“Tessellations, in particular, can take on very different appearances based on how they are colored. Even in the black and white picture above, if you look closely, you will see that the small white squares appear brighter than the larger ones.” (The Shodor Education Foundation, Inc.)
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
27
Proportion
• Relationship between garment as a whole and the size and placement of parts and shapes (scale)
• Equal and balanced• Unequal and contrasting• Affected by line and shape• Pockets, sleeves, cuffs, yokes,
pant legs, waistbands, and collars affect proportion
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
28
Balance
• Equal distribution of visual weight on a garment
• Visual weight of different elements are evaluated relative to vertical and horizontal axes of a garment
• Horizontal balance (top to bottom)
• Vertical balance (side to side)
Fig 5.5
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
29
Rhythm
• Sense of movement and continuity created by repetition
• Repetition is repeated use of design element
• Creates a visually smooth transition through repeated design elements (different scales of print motif on sweater and skirt; binding or trim on collars, cuffs, and pockets; use of color blocking; contrasting topstitching; pleats or tucks)
Fig 5.6
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
30
Emphasis
• Directs viewer’s attention to a specific area of a garment (splash of color, converging lines, dramatic shapes, sharp contrast)
• Creates visual interest• Directs eye to positive part of
body or lead it away from a problem area (v-neck or contrasting collar draws attention to face, bold belts bring attention to waist, large pockets bring attention to area of pockets)
Fig 5.7
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
31
Harmony
• Combined result of individual elements of design and their integration through effective use of design principles
• Creates the effect that a customer sees when they try on a garment and look into a mirror
Fig 5.8
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
32
Design Principles
• Not hard and fast scientific rules• Can be modified or even breached to achieve a
specific creative objective• Design decisions must be intentional, not in error in
order to achieve harmony
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
33
Merchandiser and Production Manager Responsibility
• Focus efforts of design team• Evaluate each style against fashion trends
evolving for target market• How does each style utilize design elements and
design principles?• Team leader, planner, and controller
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
34
Effective Merchandiser
• Thorough understanding of elements and principles of design
• Skilled in garment construction• Inquisitive• Highly perceptive• Motivated to reach higher standard of design
excellence
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
35
Computer Technology
• Sophisticated color illustration systems• CAD systems that drape computer generated fabrics onto
3-D silhouettes• Advanced pattern design systems (PDS)• Product information management systems (PIMs)• Videoconferencing• Fashion information services• Web-based data management systems
Fig 5.9
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
36
Computer Technology
• Shrink line development cycle• Expand designer creativity• Improve design communications• Enhance process controls• Smooth integration of product development with
manufacturing and sourcing• Reduce line development costs• Increase responsiveness in a global environment
Fig 5.10
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
37
Fashion Information Services
• Worth Global Style Network• Trend reports for all categories• Daily fashion news updates• Store reports from styling services• Fashion and trade events• Resource libraries digitizing works of
art and graphics
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
38
Integrated Graphics Systems
• Styling sketches and fashion illustrations• Technical garment drawings• Color story boards• Logos, labels, embroidery, appliques• Woven, knit and print textile designs• Drape textile designs or scanned fabrics onto
illustrations or photographs• Print textile designs onto fabric• Create digital 24-bit color separations
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
39
Integrated Graphics Systems
• Vision Fashion Studio (www.gerbertechnology.com )
• Ned Graphics Fashion Studio (www.bluefoxta.com )
• Kaledo™ Style - Apparel Design (www.lectra.com )
• DigiFab (www.digifab.com )
• Colorspan (www.colorspan.com )
• Primavision Graphics Moda (www.lectra.com )
• Mimaki (www.mimakiusa.com)
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
40
Pattern Design Systems
• Accuracy: 1/10 millimeter• Speed: Pattern grading, deriving facings and garment parts• Flexibility: Adjustments can be made at fit session, quickly test new
silhouettes• Optimize fabric use: Auto markers from design station• Can generate 2D patterns from 3D images and 3D images from 2D patterns
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
41
Pattern Design Systems
• Modaris (www.lectra.com)
• AccuMark Pattern Design (www.gerbertechnology.com)
• Scanvec Garment Systems (www.optitex.com )
• Gerber 3D Direct (www.gerbertechnology.com)
• Tukatech (www.tukatech.com)
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
42
Product Information Management Systems
• Aids merchandisers to control line development and communicate accurate product data to manufacturing and sourcing
• Utilize relational databases and technical drawing software• Style information is accurate, up-to-date, and instantly
available
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
43
PIMs Provide
• Product development calendars
• Technical drawings• Colorways documentation• Style description sheets• Bills of materials• Packaging details• Costing data• Detailed garment
specification sheets
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
44
PIMs Provide
• Tables of measurement• Quality control
information• Vendor quote sheets• Centralized file
management update in real time
• Internet integration to transmit forms and data worldwide
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
45
PIMs
• Freeborders PLM Suite (www.freeborders.com)
• JustWin Apparel (www.justwin.com)
• PDM & Web PDM 5.0 (www.gerbertechnology.com )
• Gallery Web (http://www.lectra.com )
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
46
• Communicate among multiple locations• Communicate visual information for product and
line reviews• Communicate with manufacturing or sourcing for
construction or specification changes• Picture worth 1000 words• World Health Organization Travel Advisories (SARS)
Videoconferencing
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
47
Videoconferencing
• Levi Strauss• The Gap• J. C. Penney• Wal-Mart• VF Corporation
End Chapter 5
Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies
49
System Requirements:
Windows® 98, SE, 2000, ME, XP, or NT 4.0 Service Pack 4 and up Microsoft PowerPoint® 97, 2000, 2002, XP, 2003 or PowerPoint®
Viewer 2003Pentium II Minimum, Pentium III Recommended 72 MB of hard disk space 64 MB of RAM minimum 128 MB of RAM recommendedSuper VGA (800 × 600) or higher-resolution monitor
Macro Security:
The macros contained in this presentation will not run unless the security settings in PowerPoint are set to “Low”. To change security settings do the following:
1. Open PowerPoint2. From the top menu panel select “Tools”3. From the dropdown menu select “Macro”4. From the Macro menu select “Security”5. A tabbed dialog box appears, select the “Security Settings” tab6. Select “Low”7. Click “OK”
When you are finished viewing the presentation remember to reset your Macro Security Level.
Support:
Email: support@cvkengineering.com Phone: 267-808-4816 9am–5pm Eastern Standard Time
Help and Support
Go to the Help Slide
Go to the Next Slide
Go to the Previous Slide
Go to the Table of Contents Slide
End Presentation
Go to Last Slide Viewed
top related