photography workshop isbat university, kampala, ug,

PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP

By: Randhir Prasad YadavISBAT University , Kampala, Ug

Basics ofPhotography

What is Photography?

• The art or practice of taking and processing photographs. – Oxford Dictionary

• Form of Art

• Using light to take shots

• Demonstrate your PERSPECTIVE

Why Photography?

Why Photography?• Capture Moments

Why Photography?• Share your Perspective

Why Photography?• Bring out Creativity

Why Photography?• Tell a Story

Why Photography?• Make everyone Smile

Why Photography?• Go beyond Reality

Why Photography?• Earn a lot of Money

Why Photography?• Show-off a little bit…Why not ;)

Types of Photography

Types of Photography

Abstract

Types of Photography

Animal / Pet

Types of Photography

Astrophotography

Types of Photography

Aerial

Types of Photography

Black and White

Types of Photography

Event / Wedding

Types of Photography

Fashion

Types of Photography

Nature / Landscape

Types of Photography

Long Exposure

Types of Photography

Macro

Types of Photography

Message

Types of Photography

Mobile

Types of Photography

Night

Types of Photography

Portrait

Types of Photography

Product / Commercial

Types of Photography

Still life / Street

Types of Photography

Silhouette

Types of Photography

Wildlife

Types of Photography

Sports

Types of Photography

Food

Tools of Photography

• Camera• Camera Lens

Focal Length

• Distance between lens and image sensor

Types of Camera Lenses (Rigidity)

• Prime Lens• Zoom Lens

Types of Camera Lenses (Focal Length)

• Ultra-Wide: Less than 10 mm• Extreme Wide: 10-21 mm• Wide: 21-35 mm• Normal: 35-75 mm• Medium Telephoto: 75-135 mm• Telephoto: 135 mm and above

Exposure

Under ExposedToo dark

Exposure

Over ExposedToo bright

ExposureCorrect

What is Exposure?

• How dark or bright the image is.

• Controlled by 3 things:

1. Aperture2. Shutter Speed Exposure Triangle3. ISO

Exposure Triangle

Aperture

• Similar to the iris of the eye.

• Opening and closing of the lens.

• Wide opening = more light = bright photo

• Narrow opening = less light = dark photo

F-stop number

• Aperture represented by F-stop number.

• Range from f/1.4 – f/32

• F-stop ∝ 1 Opening of lens

• f/1.4 = wide aperture

• f/32 = narrow aperture

Understanding Aperture

Understanding Aperture

Understanding Aperture

Depth of Field (DoF)

Area of the image that appears sharp

Understanding DoF

• Small f-stop = wide aperture = more light = bright image = SHALLOW DEPTH OF FIELD

• Large f-stop = narrow aperture = less light = dark image = DEEP DEPTH OF FIELD

Understanding DoF

Shutter Speed

• Length of time shutter remains open.

• Measure in fraction of seconds.

Understanding Shutter Speed

Understanding Shutter Speed

Understanding Shutter Speed

Fast Shutter Speed

Fast Shutter Speed

Fast Shutter Speed

Fast Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

ISO

• International Organization for Standardization.

• Sensitivity of the Image Sensor.

• Lower ISO = Less Sensitivity = Less Light = Dark Image

• Higher ISO = High Sensitivity = More light = Bright Image

Understanding ISO

Drawback of ISO - Noise

Mode Dials

Manual Mode

• FULL CONTROL OF DSLR

• Combining:

–Aperture–Shutter Speed– ISO

Composition

• General guidelines enhancing a photograph

• Placement of relative objects and elements

Types of Composition

Rule of Thirds

Types of Composition

Types of Composition

Leading Lines

Types of Composition

Symmetry & Pattern

BASIC PHOTOGRAPHY LIGHTING

What is Lighting

Lighting

Natural Artificial

Styles of Lighting

• Broad Lighting. • Short Lighting• Narrow lighting.• Butterfly Lighting.• Rembrandt Lighting.

Broad Lighting

• Broad Lighting The main light is positioned to illuminate (Brighter) the side of the face that faces the camera.

• Used for corrective purposes• It will de-emphasize facial

features

Broad Lighting

Broad Lighting

Short Lighting

Short Lighting The main light illuminates the side of the face that is turned away from the camera

Broad Lighting VS Short Lighting

Narrow lighting

• Narrow lighting good for use in low-key portraits.• Short lighting has a narrowing effect

Narrow lighting

Butterfly Lighting

• Butterfly Lighting Position the main light directly in front of the subjects face.

• And adjusting the height to create a shadow directly under, and in line with, the nose.

• Suited best for women. Not recommended for men since it tends to highlight the ears.

Butterfly Lighting

Butt

erfly

Lig

hting

Rembrandt Lighting

• Rembrandt - Influential Dutch artist (1606-1669)

• Rembrandt Lighting Obtained by combining short lighting and butterfly lighting.

• The main light is positioned high and on the side of the face that is away from the camera

Rembrandt Lighting

Rembrandt lighting

• This lighting technique is used in studio portraiture.• The key in Rembrandt lighting is creating the triangle

or diamond shape of light underneath the eye.• One side of the face is lit well from the main light

source while the other side of the face uses the interaction of shadows and light

Rembrandt Lighting

• Rembrandt Lighting The triangle will illuminate just under the eye and not below the nose.

• The positioning of the main light is usually about 45 degrees from the camera-subject axis and should be slightly higher than the subject.

Three-point lighting

• It is a standard method used in visual media such as video, film, still photography

• A typical three point setup with a shoulder or back-side lamp to create contrast between the background and center object so as to give a three dimensional appearance.

Three-point lighting

Three-point lighting

Three-point lighting

Key light

• The key light, as the name suggests, shines directly upon the subject and serves as its principal illuminator; more than anything else.

• The strength, color and angle of the key determines the shot's overall lighting design.

Key light

• In indoor shots, the key is commonly a specialized lamp, or a camera's flash.

• In outdoor daytime shots, the Sun often serves as the key light

Tungsten lights

• tungsten lights have a filament and the filament is inside a bulb; the light bulbs in your house are tungsten lights.

• When these bulbs were made specifically for still and movie

• Use they were made to run at very high temperatures so there would be more blue in the light and so the light would be brighter.

Lights

• Main light: One bright light is used to illuminate the front of the subject. This light is the brightest one used. It is angled from the side of the subject.

• Diffuser: A diffuser is used to soften the light. Harsh light does not look good and it makes the subject squint. A diffuser is placed between the light and the person.

Lights

• Reflector: A reflector is used to lighten the opposite side of the person’s face and fill in shadows.

• Hair light: Often, a light from the opposite side of the main light and up high is used to highlight the subject’s hair.

• Background light: Sometimes a light is shined on the background.

• Fill lights: Sometimes dimmer lights are used to fill in shadows or brighten up certain parts of the picture.

Indoor flash techniques

Indoor flash techniques

• ISO setting to help in low light• If you use a film camera buy a fast film• ISO1600. Pictures will be grainy, but youll get some

results

Indoor flash techniques

Indoor flash techniques

• If you take a picture with flash of a person standing close to a background its likely that a shadow will appear behind the person on the wall.

• Flash Technique• bounce flash• eliminates red-eye• more natural looking• fill flash• reduce shadows• control contrast

Indoor flash techniques

Photography in Sunlight

• Photography is all about light, the direction of the light falling on your subject is most important

• You need to look at your subject carefully and watch how the shadows fall.

• If you are able to choose the time of day to shoot your pictures, try to pick a time when the sun is low in the sky.

Photography in Sunlight

• shoot in the early morning or late afternoon• Shooting pictures of people with the sun too high in

the sky, tends to mean the subject's eyes will be in shadow.

• If you are photographing in sunlight, try to position yourself so that the sun hits your subject from the side, this will give you nice 'modelling' and help create a 3D effect in the picture

A picture taken in the middle of the day, the overhead sun casts deep shadows into the kids' eyes, spoiling an otherwise quite nice little group portrait.

Side lighting

• An example of side lighting, taken late in the afternoon the side lighting 'models' the surfer well and pulls him away from the background.

• Also the late sun gives a warmer

light.

When framing a photo, imagine the scene divided up as it is below. Think about what elements of the photo are most important, and try to position them at or near the lines and intersections of the grid. They don't have to be perfectly lined up as long as they're close.

The horizon and main subject in this photo have been positioned near lines or intersections for maximum impact

In landscape shots, it's common to position the horizon along the center of the frame, but this can give the photo a "split in two" feel. Instead, place it along one of the horizontal lines.

Try to include another interesting object, such as the tree in the photo above, and position it according to the rule of thirds. This provides an "anchor", a natural focal point for the scene.

It's a good idea to position people off to one side of the frame. This provides some "breathing space", shows the subject's environment, and stops the photo from looking like a mugshot. We are naturally drawn to people's eyes. Place them at one of the intersections on the rule of thirds grid to give the shot a clear focal point.

Here, the main subject has been placed at one of the intersections, and also along one vertical line. The twig roughly follows the top horizontal line. The empty space at the bottom left provides balance and prevents the picture from feeling overcrowded.

Vertical subjects such as this lighthouse can split a photo in two, in much the same way as a horizon can do horizontally. To avoid this, position them off-center in your composition.

When photographing moving subjects, position them as normal, but also pay attention to the direction they're moving. As a general rule you should leave more space in front of them than behind, to show where they're going.

You can easily apply the rule of thirds to existing photos by cropping them. This allows you to reposition the important subjects in your image, moving them into more pleasing positions.

Leading LinesWhen we look at a photo our eye is naturally drawn along lines. By thinking about how you place lines in your composition, you can affect the way we view the image, pulling us into the picture, towards the subject, or on a journey "through" the scene. There are many different types of line - straight, diagonal, curvy, zigzag, radial etc - and each can be used to enhance our photo's composition.

Symmetry and PatternsWe are surrounded by symmetry and patterns, both natural and man-made., They can make for very eye-catching compositions, particularly in situations where they are not expected. Another great way to use them is to break the symmetry or pattern in some way, introducing tension and a focal point to the scene.

Depth of FieldBecause photography is a two-dimensional medium, we have to choose our composition carefully to convey the sense of depth that was present in the actual scene. You can create depth in a photo by including objects in the foreground, middle ground and background. Another useful composition technique is overlapping, where you deliberately partially obscure one object with another. The human eye naturally recognizes these layers and mentally separates them out, creating an image with more depth.

FramingThe world is full of objects, which make perfect natural frames, such as trees, archways and holes. By placing these around the edge of the composition you help to isolate the main subject from the outside world. The result is a more focused image, which draws your eye naturally to the main point of interest.

ViewpointBefore photographing your subject, take time to think about where you will shoot it from. Our viewpoint has a massive impact on the composition of our photo, and as a result it can greatly affect the message that the shot conveys. Rather than just shooting from eye level, consider photographing from high above, down at ground level, from the side, from the back, from a long way away, from very close up, and so on.

Bird’s Eye View: The viewer is looking DOWN on the subject

Worm’s Eye View: Viewer is looking UP at the subject