refraction and reflection

Refraction and Reflection

Coastal Process

Headland

Beach

Headland: A cliffed cape or promontory sticking out into the sea.

Headland

Beach

Wave front

Headland

Beach

Waves bend when they approach shallow water.

Wave direction

Headland

Beach

Headland

Cliffed edge

Wave energy converges on the headland

High energy

Headland

Cliffed edge

When waves hit a solid surface like the cliff they are reflected back towards the sea. The waves erode the rock and beach and take the sediments with them.

Headland

Beach

Beach

Wave energy diverges on the beach

Low energy

Beach

Wave energy is spread out so the waves have a gentler erosive power. This area is where sediments will be dropped.

Headland

Beach

Sediment movement

erosion

Refraction: waves bending

Think of wave refraction like a group of soldiers marching, they are able to stay in a straight line formation and go at a fast pace on firm ground. But when the group of soldiers meet a different surface, one that is harder to walk through, the line is slowed as it reaches the mud. This bends their motion.

Just like the soldiers, ocean waves can travel at a good pace while out in deep water but when it hits shallow water the waves slow and bend.

Wave ReflectionThe intensification of wave energy resulting from a wave pounding against a solid, vertical surface. Reflection of a wave is bouncing of a solid and going back from where it came.