tech pack - shirt dress

TECH PACK – SHIRT DRESSANANYA SRIVASTAVA

DFT- V

TECH PACK

Document which contains all the necessary specifications to construct a garment or a sewn product for prototype or production purposes.

Provides the manufacturer with a detailed “road map” on how to make your sewn prototype, sales samples, or production.

Every detail from the style number, season, thread color, embroidery placement, and vendor information is clearly identified.

TECH PACKMany may contain specs and garment

measurements, layouts for artwork, full color or black and white flat sketches, and information for labels and hangtags.   

Teck Packs are in an Excel spreadsheet format or in a template format that can be completed by hand.

These documents are generated and completed by the technical designer and finalized with merchandisers.

EXPLAINING TECH PACK WITH RESPECT TO THE GARMENT AND THE BUYER:

SHIRT DRESS

SEASON/YEAR

FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S

STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE

MISSY/0-14

SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY

DRESSES

PRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

GARMENT DESCRIPTION

GARMENT DESCRIPTIONBACK FRON

T

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC NAME

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

TECHNICAL SKETCH

FABRIC DETAILS - Shell

FABRIC DETAILS - Lining

LABEL PLACEMENT AND PACKAGING

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

LABEL PLACEMENT AND PACKAGING

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET

FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Front

FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Back

FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Details

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

1 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Gather front. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

2 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Join front to front yoke.Top stitch.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

3 BACK SHELL 301 10 Gather back. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

4 BACK YOKE 301 10 Join back to back yoke.Top stitch.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

5 SHOULDER SHELL

301 10 Join front and back at shoulder.Busted seam.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

6 SLEEVE SHELL

301 10 Make sleeve.Busted seam

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

7 ARMHOLE SHELL

301 & 504

3/16 Set sleeve.3 thread overedge stitch.

SNLS & Overedge machine

DB*1SIZE 12

8 POCKET FLAP SHELL

301 10 Make pocket flap. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER,

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

9 POCKET FLAP SHELL

301 10 Attach pocket flap to front shell.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

10 POCKET BAG SHELL

301 10 Attach pocket bag to front shell.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

11 SLEEVE SHELL

301 N/A Set snap. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

12 FRONT FACING

301 10 Join facing to front lining.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

13 BACK FACING 301 10 Join back facing to back lining.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

14 FRONT LINING

301 10 Join front lining to back lining setting care lebel.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

15 CENTRE BACK LINING

301 10 Attach main label at centre back.End sewn.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

16 SHOULDER LINING

301 10 Join front and back at shoulder setting hanger loops.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

17 SLEEVE LINING

301 10 Make sleeve leaving 6” gap.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

18 TAB SHELL 301 10 Make tab.Setting snap.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

19 INSIDE SLEEVE LINING

301 10 Attach tab to the inside of sleeve.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

20 ARMHOLE LINING

301 10 Set sleeve. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

21 DRESS BODY 301 10 Join lining to shell. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

22 DRESS BODY 301 10 Turn right side out.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

23 SLEEVE LINING

301 10 Whip stitch sleeve gap.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

24 PLACKET SHELL

301 10 Make placket. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

25 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Set placket to front shell.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

26 COLLAR SHELL

301 10 Make collar. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

27 DRESS NECKLINE

301 10 Set collar. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

28 CUFF SHELL 301 10 Make cuff. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

29 SLEEVE OPENING

301 10 Set cuff. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

30 SHELL FRONT 301 10 Set zipper. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

31 POCKET FLAP 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

32 POCKET BAG 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

33 CUFF SHELL 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

34 LINGING HEM 301 10 Hem skirt lining. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

35 SHELL HEM 301 10 Hem shell. SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

36 SHELL HEM 301 N/A French tack lining to shell.

SNLS DB*1SIZE 12

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

S NO.

ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS

SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED

NEEDLE

37 N/A N/A N/A QUALITY ASSURANCE

N/A N/A

38 N/A N/A N/A PRESS GARMENT N/A N/A

39 N/A N/A N/A HANG, TAG, BAG N/A N/A

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’SSTYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSESPRODUCT TYPE

COMPETING BRAND

WOMENS

DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER

FABRIC

LINING

CHAMBRAY100% COTTON (YARN DYED)

100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)

BILL OF MATERIALS

BILL OF MATERIALS

SAMPLING • The samples decide the ability of an exporter.

• The buyer will hire the exporter and his organisation only by the samples.

• The exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties.

• The exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks.

SAMPLING PROCEDURE

TYPES OF SAMPLES

PROTOTYPE SAMPLE

FIT SAMPLE

SALESMAN SAMPLE

SIZE SET SAMPLE

PRE- PRODUCTION SAMPLES

GPT SAMPLE

PILOT SAMPLE

SEALER SAMPLE

TOP SAMPLE

SHIPMENT SAMPLE

SAMPLING Levi’s sends the tech pack and PAF (Proto approval form) to its own buying house.PROTO SAMPLEThe buying house gets 2 proto samples constructed each for:

Design team of Levi’sTechnical team of Levi’s

• Similar fabric and trims are used or may be made with poplin or muslin.•The proto samples are then sent to the buyer who will actually examine if the product will be appreciated in the market.•If the proto sample is approved, the buying house gets the fit sample developed with the measurement and grading details.FIT SAMPLEThe fit sample is first examined by the buying house and they leave their comments in the product approval form. The fit sample is then sent to the buyer for the approval who also leave their comments on the same.•Actual fabric and trims are used.•Done in medium size.•To correct all fit related problems•Any delay in fit sample will cause delay in P.O.

SAMPLING SALESMAN SAMPLE•Submitted parallel with fit sample•Exactly the same fabric and trims are used.•Done with sample yardage•Made in medium size•used for advertising and visual merchandising

SIZE SET SAMPLE•Made in all sizes•Actual fabric from bulk is used•Minimum of 2 size set sample is made•Done after P.O. is received

GPT(GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST) SAMPLE•Sample is sent to either third –party or in-house testing lab•Test results should get approved well in advance from buyer•Done before pre-production sample

PILOT RUN SAMPLE•Done to see the complications in actual production•To give the sufficient time for operator’s learning•Pilot run can be conducted before or after PP Meeting.

SAMPLING SEALER SAMPLE•It is used as a reference for supervisors and trainers•It is done in medium size•Done from bulk yardage•Every line has one sealer sample•Used for production detailing•Once approved ,the style size,colour, nothing can be changed.Top Of Production Sample•From first few pieces of sample TOP sample is submitted to buyer.•It’s very crucial stage •If  TOP sample get rejected then production end date is going to be delayed. •Hence it can straight way affect the shipment dateSHIPMENT SAMPLE•It is sent with full packaging•Randomly one sample is picked and sent

TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR

• It is a popular tool used in apparel manufacturing industry•It is a technique for tracking and following up of important milestones •The chart consists of time frames listed for every action planned

PURPOSE OF TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR(TNA)•To cross check at frequent intervals whether the planning is being executed satisfactorily.•TNA is especially useful when a buyer wants to know the status of execution of an order.

STRUCTURE OF TNAIn order to make TNA below mentioned information must be available• Process flow of an order •Production capacity of cutting, sewing, washing and finishing• For sewing - batch wise and product wise capacity (production per day per batch)• Lead time of activities, e.g. raw material lead time, sampling lead time, etc.• Shipment date or planned ex-factory date

TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR

No. Key Activities Time Taken

1. PROTO SAMPLE SUBMISSION

N/A

2. PROTO SAMPLE APPROVAL 18 DAYS

3. ORDER CONFIRMATION 1 DAY

4. FIT SAMPLES SENT TO BUYER

30-32 DAYS

5. APPROVAL OF FIT SAMPLE 25 DAYS

6. SALESMAN SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER

SENT PARALLEL TO FIT SAMPLES

7. APPROVAL OF SALESMAN SAMPLE

25 DAYS

8. P.O. RAISED BY BUYER 1-2 DAYS

NO: KEY ACTIVITIES PLANNED DATE

9. SIZE SET SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER 40 DAYS AFTER PO IS RECEIVED

10. APPROVAL OF SIZE ST SAMPLE 18 DAYS

11. GPT SENT TO BUYER SENT PARALLEL TO SIZE SET SAMPLE

12. GPT APPROVED BY BUYER 21 DAYS

13. PLANNED CUT DATE 1 DAY AFTER APPROVAL

14. CUT PANEL SEND TO EMBROIDERY 1 DAY

15. PILOT RUN 2 DAYS LATER

16. PRE PRODUCTION MEETING AFTER 3 DAYS OF PILOT RUN

17. SEALER SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER IMMEDIATE AFTER PILOT RUN

18. APPROVAL OF SEALER SAMPLE 7 DAYS

19. PRODUCTION START DATE 1-2 DAYS AFTER APPROVAL OF SEALER SAMPLE

20. TOP SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER 4 DAYS LATER

21. TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL WITHIN 4 DAYS

IMPORTANCE OF TNA• Helps to streamline the pre-production activities.•Easy understanding of order processing.•Clear understanding of timelines given by buyer.•Clear idea about the minor or sub activities •Gives idea about the status of running order and delay•Gives the dates at which raw material need to be sourced,•Also reduces the risk of delivery delay.

LAB DIPLab dip is small swatch of fabric to define color and its recipe before it goes for bulk dyeing. This is also a master piece for both buyer & manufacturer that give correct source what to be color look like and what is the corresponding dyestuff recipe would be.

Lab dip is important because different combination of dyes or different color recipe produces different shades. The dye houses matches their lab dip with buyers’ reference colour.

Process Sequence of Lab Dip:

Lab dip requisition from buyer Entry in the computer First recipe is given

by swatch/ pantone number first correction second correction

Grading of sample (A,B,C,D) Yarn knit sample send to buyer approved by

buyer Order for bulk production Production card with approved sample

BENEFITS• Manufacturing a sewn product is similar to putting a

puzzle together; you are presented with different shapes, sizes, and color and it has to put together and finished just like the reference sample provided.

• A tech pack helps to stay organized and focused.

• It helps with patternmaking, grading, calculating yields and costing.

• A tech pack also confirms that all necessary information is provided to the factory and will insure the accuracy of the final product.

THANK YOU