annual insights report 2018 - textile exchange...burberry woolworths (pty) ltd apparel (large)...

Annual Insights Report2018

SUMMARY

Insights. Action. Impact.

Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark

Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark Insights Report © 2018 •• 32 •• Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark Insights Report © 2018

Table of Contents

06 Welcome

08 Participants

12 Leaders Circle

14 Founders Club

16 Leaderboards

24 Benchmark Dashboard

26 Index Results

30 Circularity Strategy

32 Sustainable Development Goals

34 About the PFM Benchmark

38 Background Information

42 Resources

Principal funding for this report was provided by:

It’s time to take bold action now, we owe this to our children,

to the planet, and to the people who work in our supply

chains. So let’s work together and be accountable to our

progress. Let’s commit to sourcing raw materials with

integrity and fairness. Let’s honour the value of people,

energy, water and the soil. Let’s work together to really

create positive impact in the world, because this is the task

for our generation.

We only have this one world and if we don’t take care of it,

who will?

Nanda Bergstein, Tchibo

“

Disclaimer: The Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark is based on participant self-assessment. While Textile Exchange reviews all data entries, checks calculations, and carries out consistency checks, it does not verify the accuracy of the data or disclosures within a company’s survey submission, or the process of preparing the disclosures. That responsibility remains with the participating company.

The opinions expressed in this publication are those of Textile Exchange and do not necessarily reflect the views of any of our funders, member organizations or advisors.

Cover image: NASA


Impacts

Outcomes

Inputs

Savings in water, energy, and greenhouse gases, and other benefits.

More sustainable agriculture, land use, and innovation.

Organic, recycled or more sustainably produced fibers and materials.

Where we have beenWhere we are going

The Textile Exchange Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark (PFMB) helps companies systematically measure, manage and integrate a preferred fiber and materials strategy into mainstream business operations. It also allows companies to better understand how their PFM engagement compares to their peers - providing a further catalyst to change.

2018 marks the end of the first 3 years of the program. We have been told the PFMB has helped companies develop structure, focus their efforts, and finesse their portfolio of preferred fiber and materials. This has been validated by year-on-year growth both in terms of engagement on and embedding of sustainability throughout organizations, but also through the continual increase in consumption of preferred fibers and materials.

The highest growth areas of engagement are commitments to implementing circular economy principles, and alignment of corporate strategy to the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Leadership in this important area is quickly evolving, and participants are ready for the next edition of the PFMB.

The ambition of the PFMB going forward is to further accelerate businesses to take action and align the industry more closely with important global agendas such as the UN Sustainable Development Goals. The PFMB team, guided by a steering committee and through open consultation with all stakeholders, will launch the "PFMB 2.0" in May 2019.

The Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark helps companies systematically measure, manage and integrate a preferred fiber and materials strategy into mainstream business operations.

The PFM Benchmark interacts with the Sustainable Development Goals


Welcome to theBenchmark Insights 2018

To celebrate the third year of our Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark (PFMB) we decided to combine the excitement of the PFM Leaderboards, the launch of our new Leaders Circle and Founders Club, with insights from four leading Textile Exchange members and benchmarkers (Tchibo, Patagonia, C&A, and Stella McCartney). Each of them offers a personal view on why they commit to this work, what sustains them to continue, and what’s next for them:

“ Unless a company understands the entire portfolio of impact from product creation to air freight – and by the way, most of the impact comes from the materials that you choose – it’s impossible to decide exactly how you’re going to effectively deploy your capital and your people against innovation projects, impact reduction and for the sustainability work. ”

Matt Dwyer, Patagonia

“ From my perspective there are two ways that leadership can focus on more impact in the preferred fibers arena. The first way is to focus more and to raise the bar on our integrity systems and traceability through the supply chain. And the second way is to focus on scale where all the brands are coming together collaboratively to work on programs that will create a better preferred fiber supply chain. ”

Jeffrey Hogue, C&A Global

“ The next most urgent challenge for sustainability in fashion is going to be around circularity. What we need to address is finding solutions and technologies that allow us to genuinely recycle textiles back into textiles without degrading quality. There’s a lot happening in this space and we’ve engaged with quite a few exciting start ups and innovation companies that are pioneering solutions that I think could really unlock this for the future of fashion. ”

Claire Bergkamp, Stella McCartney

No one needs a reminder of the limits to growth we face on the planet; the reality of climate change, soil loss, or the decreasing availability of fresh, safe water. In one part of the world or another, we are living with it every day now.

Textile Exchange steps up its commitment to you by working with our members on upgrades to the Benchmark. We know that a strategic focus, time-bound targets for sourcing fibers and materials with integrity, from more sustainable production systems is imperative to moving the industry in the right direction. You need to do the work, but we are with you every step of the way. The benchmark gives you a tool to know how you are doing, how your peers are doing, and how much progress we are making in step with each other.

We hope you enjoy this 3-year highlights report and our 3-minute video. We look forward to welcome you back in 2019!

Liesl Truscott

Director of European & Materials Strategy

Textile Exchange

Three Years of Benchmarking

Heading in the right direction

Spotlight on the Founders Club

Leaders Circle (presented alphabetically)

PFM Leaderboards (#1s)

Participation reaches 111 companies(87 Benchmark, 26 Consumption Tracker)

43 companies (60% of the original 71) participated consecutively across 3 years

Improvement in scores year-on-year

The Founders Club are outperforming the rest

Third year of benchmarking following a successful pilot

Biggest movers over 3 years (presented alphabetically)

pCotton pPolyester pMMCs pDown pWool

Organic RecycledOrganic

Fair TradepCotton pCotton rPET rPET pLyocell pMMCs pMMCs pDown pDown pWool

Volume Volume Volume Volume Growth Volume Growth Volume Volume Growth Volume Growth Volume

C&A Global

Inter Ikea Group

Boll & Branch

H&M Gucci Nike Inc. REI H&M H&M The North Face

H&M REI UGG (Deckers Brands)

ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG

Burberry

WOOLWORTHS (PTY) LTD

Apparel (Large)

Apparel (Small/Medium)

Multi-sector/Apparel (Extra Large)

C&A Global

H&M

Tchibo GmbH

KALANI-Home

Loomstate

Patagonia

Burberry

Stella McCartney

Washbär (Triaz GmbH)

Cotonea

Loomstate

METAWEAR

Helly Hansen AS

Kathmandu

Patagonia

Coyuchi, Inc.

KALANI-Home

Under the Canopy

Outdoor/SportsPFM Index (Overall)

Home Textiles

60+40+R43

3# 49

5653

106%

http://textileexchange.org/pfm-benchmark/


A Worldwide Program

Company Sub-sector Full Benchmark

Consumption Tracker

Founders Club

AB Lindex Apparel (L) • •adidas AG Outdoor & Sports •ALANA (dm-drogerie markt) Apparel (SM) • •ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG MultiSector (XL) • •ALDI South International MultiSector (XL) •Amberoot Apparel (SM) •ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH) Apparel (SM) • •Arthur and Henry Apparel (SM) •ASOS Apparel (L) •Bluey Merino Outdoor & Sports •Boll & Branch Home Textiles •Brooks Running Outdoor & Sports •Burberry Apparel (L) • •Burton Outdoor & Sports •C&A Global MultiSector (XL) • •Columbia Sportswear Company Outdoor & Sports •Continental® (Continental Clothing) Apparel (SM) •Coop Switzerland MultiSector (XL) •Cotonea (Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel) Apparel (SM) • •Country Road Group Apparel (L) •Coyuchi, Inc. Home Textiles • •Cream Workwear Apparel (SM) •DECATHLON Outdoor & Sports • •Dedicated Apparel (SM) • •Dibella Home Textiles • •EarthPositive® (Continental Clothing) Apparel (SM) •EILEEN FISHER, Inc. Apparel (L) • •Esprit Apparel (L) •Ethicus Apparel (SM) •Fair Share (Continental Clothing) Apparel (SM) •Fat Face Ltd Apparel (L) •Fjällräven International Outdoor & Sports •Forest srl Apparel (SM) •FRILUFTS Outdoor & Sports •G-Star RAW C.V. Apparel (L) • •Gap Inc. MultiSector (XL) •greenfibres Home Textiles •Gucci Apparel (L) •H&M MultiSector (XL) • •Hanky Panky Apparel (SM) •Helly Hansen AS Outdoor & Sports •HempAge AG Apparel (SM) • •Hemtex Home Textiles •Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH Apparel (SM) •House of Fraser Apparel (L) •HUGO BOSS Apparel (L) • •Icebreaker Outdoor & Sports •Indigenous Designs Apparel (SM) •Inditex Group MultiSector (XL) • •Inter Ikea Group Home Textiles •KALANI-Home Home Textiles •KappAhl Sverige AB Apparel (L) •Kathmandu Outdoor & Sports • •Kering MultiSector (XL) •KnowledgeCotton Apparel Apparel (SM) • •

111 Companies | 17 Countries | Estimated Turnover US$ 1.65 Trillion

Company Sub-sector Full Benchmark

Consumption Tracker

Founders Club

Kuyichi B.V. Apparel (SM) •LA SIESTA Home Textiles •Levi Strauss & Co. MultiSector (XL) •Loomstate Apparel (SM) • •Mantis World Apparel (SM) • •Mara Hoffman Apparel (SM) •Marc O'Polo Apparel (L) •Marks and Spencer MultiSector (XL) • •MEC Outdoor & Sports • •METAWEAR Apparel (SM) •Mini Rodini Apparel (SM) •MQ Apparel (L) •Mud Jeans International BV Apparel (SM) •Nature USA/BGREEN Apparel (SM) •New Balance Athletics, Inc. Outdoor & Sports • •Next Retail Ltd Apparel (L) •NIKE, Inc. Outdoor & Sports • •Norrøna Sport Outdoor & Sports • •Nudie Jeans Apparel (L) •Otto Group MultiSector (XL) •Outerknown Apparel (SM) • •Pact Apparel (SM) • •Patagonia Outdoor & Sports • •People Tree Apparel (SM) •prAna Outdoor & Sports •PUMA SE Outdoor & Sports • •PVH Corp Multisector (XL) •Ramblers Way Farm, LLC Apparel (SM) •RE.SUSTAIN Apparel (SM) •REI Outdoor & Sports • •Sainsburys Apparel (L) •Salvage® (Continental Clothing) Apparel (SM) •Samsonite Outdoor & Sports •SKFK Apparel (SM) • •Stanley/Stella Apparel (SM) • •Stella McCartney Apparel (L) • •Target Corporation MultiSector (XL) •Tchibo GmbH MultiSector (XL) • •Ted Baker (No Ordinary Designer Label Limited) Apparel (L) •Tesco MultiSector (XL)Teva (Deckers Brands) Outdoor & SportsThe North Face Outdoor & Sports • •TIERRA Outdoor & Sports •Timberland Outdoor & Sports •toad & co Outdoor & Sports • •Trendsetter International Home Textiles •UGG (Deckers Brands) Apparel (L) •Under the Canopy Home Textiles • •VARNER MultiSector (XL) •Veja Outdoor & Sports •Volcom Outdoor & Sports • •Washbär (Triaz GmbH) Apparel (L) • •WestPoint Home LLC Home Textiles • •Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Home Textiles • •WOOLWORTHS (PTY) LTD MultiSector (XL) • •zLabels GmbH Apparel (L) •

80 Returning Participants | 43 Founders Club | 31 New Participants


16+19+20+0+56+76+87+0+6+4+5+0+5+5+6+0+22+36+43+0+0+22+34+0+41+58+71+0+40+59+0+0+18+28+0+0+10+17+0+23+37+45+0+0+0+29Increasing Participation Highlights a Growing Commitment

Apparel (Large)

15+20+65+H20%


35+30+35+H30%


15+85+H15%

Outdoor/Sports

65+24+11+H24%

Home Textiles

62% are Textile Exchange members89+11+H11%

North America

32%

Africa

1%

Europe62%

Asia

1%

Oceania

4%

Growth in number of participants

PFM Benchmark PFM Consumption Tracker

87 242018

24732017

712016

542015 (pilot)

MS/Apparel (XL)

Apparel (L)

Apparel (S/M)

Outdoor/Sports

Home Textiles

Total Respondees

Organic Fair Trade 1 1 10 2 6 20

Organic 15 17 27 20 8 87

Fair Trade 4 0 0 1 0 5

CmiA 3 1 0 0 2 6

BCI 14 16 1 7 5 43

Recycled Cotton 8 8 10 6 2 34

Recycled Polyester 13 14 15 23 6 71

pLyocell 13 12 16 14 4 59

pModal 12 3 6 7 0 28

pViscose 8 7 2 0 0 17

pDown 10 13 2 15 5 45

pWool 7 6 6 9 1 29

19% Great Britain, 16% Germany, 9% Sweden, 5% The Netherlands, 3% France,

3% Norway, 2% Belgium, 2% Italy, 2% Spain, 2% Switzerland, 1% Denmark

Europe:

Participation by sub-sector

41

58

Preferred Polyester

Preferred Manmade Cellulosics

Preferred Animal Fibers

37

45

29

23

40

59

18

28

10

17

201820172016

Preferred Cotton

16

56

6 5

19 20

76

87

4 5 5 6

Org

anic

Fai

r Tr

ade

Rec

ycle

d

Pre

ferr

ed L

yoce

ll

Pre

ferr

ed M

odal

Pre

ferr

ed V

isco

se

Pre

ferr

ed D

own

Pre

ferr

ed W

ool

Org

anic

Fair

Trad

e

BC

I

Rec

ycle

d

Cm

iA

71

22

36

22

43

34

PARTICIPATION BY MODULE

i See Background Information for details of the PFM Benchmark, PFM Consumption Tracker, Sub-sector categories and PFM definitions.


Top 3 Index Scores by SectorLeaders Circle

This year, we introduced the Leaders Circle. This group includes the top scoring participants against the 2018 PFM Index. The aim is to celebrate top-performers across the qualitative as well as quantitative elements of the Index, including Strategy, Supply Chain, Consumer Engagement, as well as Consumption. Our consumption-based Leaderboards continue to be an important feature (see pages 16-23).

VALLABH AND PRABHABEN, ORGANIC COTTON FARMERSPHOTO: BEN LANGDON FOR C&A FOUNDATION


C&A Global • H&M • Tchibo GmbH

Apparel (Large)

Burberry • Stella McCartney • Washbär (Triaz GmbH)

Apparel (Small/Medium)Cotonea (Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel) • Loomstate • METAWEAR

Helly Hansen AS • Kathmandu • Patagonia

Outdoor/Sports

Coyuchi, Inc. • KALANI-Home • Under the Canopy

Home Textiles

KALANI-Home • Loomstate • Patagonia

PFM Index (Overall)

Top scoring companies (in alphabetical order)

iThe PFM Index result is derived from a company’s Section 1: Strategy score plus the average score for Sections 2: Supply Chain, 3: Consumption and 4: Consumer Engagement of a company’s top three performing preferred fibers or materials (PFMs) modules. Until now, a company has had the option to complete as few or as many modules as they wish (including only a single module). Going forward, the index will become more aligned to a company's priority fibers, focusing on the key elements of their portfolio.


The Founders Clubis Out-Performing the rest

Of the 87 companies who completed the benchmark survey this year, 43 (the Founders Club) have completed it three years in a row. On average, the Founders Club outperformed the Index average score, increasing their performance by 21% from 2016 (while the Index average score for all participants has increased 14% from 2016)

Out of 43 companies which completed the benchmark survey three years in a row, 38 improved their scores. This occurred with the inclusion of additional questions as well – reflecting their commitment to sustainability but also keeping agile as new issues emerge which requires action. Biggest movers over three years were ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG, Burberry, and WOOLWORTHS (PTY) LTD. Five companies' scores remained constant or decreased over three years. Two are commonly recognized as sustainability leaders therefore opportunity for significant growth was limited.

Founders Club

The Founders Clubis Accelerating Uptake of Preferred

On average, the Founders Club added 1.4 modules to their reporting over three years. This increase demonstrates willingness for performance to be measured, implying a potential maturity of engagement for a specific PFM as they are in a place to evaluate their engagement. There were 40 companies that either increased or retained modules (31 increased, nine did not add any) and three dropped modules. From the three that dropped modules, a challenge in data collection was the main issue.

In terms of uptake, the Founders Club increased its use of all major PFM categories over three years, with recycled polyester achieving the biggest growth in volume.

These findings demonstrate how visibility of current performance is the first step to making improvements for the future. It also demonstrates the industry’s commitment to decreasing the negative impacts and risks associated with textile production.

ANALYSIS OF PFM CONSUMPTION BY 43 FOUNDERS CLUB COMPANIESBIGGEST MOVERS OVER 3 YEARSAVERAGE INDEX SCORE GROWTH

Brand/Retailer Sub-sector

ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG MS/Apparel (XL)

Burberry Apparel (L)

WOOLWORTHS (PTY) LTD MS/Apparel (XL)

2016 2017 2018

Founders Club Index Average Score 52 58 63

% of 2016 Score Baseline 11% 21%

All Companies Index Average Score 49 53 56

% of 2016 Score Baseline 8% 14%

2016 pCotton Vol

2017 pCotton Vol Reported

2018 pCotton Vol

Adjusted

2016 rPET Vol

2017 rPET Vol Reported

2018 rPET Vol Adjusted

Metric Tonnes 274,833 396,792 542,375 22,521 44,255 54,867

Percentage uptake Baseline 44% 97% Baseline 97% 144%

2016 pMMC Vol

2017 pMMC Vol Reported

2018 pMMC Vol Adjusted

2016 pDown Vol

2017 pDown Vol Reported

2018 pDown Vol Adjusted

Metric Tonnes - 23,876 30,566 865 1,349 1,623

Percentage uptake - Baseline 28% Baseline 56% 88%

i See Background Information section for definitions and links to resources.


Company 100% Club

ALANA (dm-drogerie markt) 100%

ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH) 100%

Arthur and Henry 100%

Boll & Branch 100%

Cotonea (Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel) 100%

Coyuchi, Inc. 100%

Cream Workwear 100%

Dedicated 100%

EarthPositive® (Continental Clothing) 100%

Ethicus 100%

Fair Share (Continental Clothing) 100%

HempAge AG* 100%

Icebreaker 100%

Indigenous Designs 100%

KALANI-Home 100%

KnowledgeCotton Apparel 100%

Kuyichi B.V.* 100%

Loomstate 100%

Mara Hoffman 100%

MEC 100%

METAWEAR 100%

Mini Rodini* 100%

MUD Jeans International BV* 100%

Nature USA/BGREEN * 100%

Norrøna Sport 100%

Pact 100%

Patagonia* 100%

RE.SUSTAIN* 100%

Salvage® (Continental Clothing)* 100%

Stanley/Stella* 100%

toad & co* 100%

Under the Canopy 100%

Veja* 100%

Waschbär (Triaz GmbH) 100%

Company Race to the Top

Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH 1Nudie Jeans 2greenfibres 3EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 4People Tree 5REI 6Outerknown 7prAna 8TIERRA 9Tchibo GmbH 10

Company Volume

C&A Global 1H&M 2Tchibo GmbH 3Inditex Group 4NIKE, Inc. 5ALDI South International 6Stanley/Stella 100% 7ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG 8AB Lindex 9Boll & Branch 100% 10

Company Volume Growth

Gucci 1KALANI-Home 100% 2ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG 3REI 4METAWEAR 100% 5Fjällräven International 6Stanley/Stella 100% 7Outerknown 8Timberland 9WestPoint Home LLC 10

Company 100% Club

See Organic Cotton for 100% Club 100%

CompanyRace to the Top

Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH 1Nudie Jeans 2greenfibres 3AB Lindex 4EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 5adidas AG 6Inter Ikea Group 7People Tree 8Trendsetter International 9REI 10

Company Volume

H&M 1Inter Ikea Group 2C&A Global 3adidas AG 4Marks and Spencer 5NIKE, Inc. 6Gap Inc. 7Levi Strauss & Co. 8Otto Group 9DECATHLON 10


Gucci 1KALANI-Home 100% 2Gap Inc. 3Target Corporation 4REI 5ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG 6DECATHLON 7Burberry 8MQ 9METAWEAR 100% 10

Company RecycledVolume

Inter Ikea Group 1H&M 2NIKE, Inc. 3ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG 4DECATHLON 5Esprit 6Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 7Inditex Group 8Marks and Spencer 9Patagonia 100% 10

Company OFTVolume

Boll & Branch 100% 1Coop Switzerland 2Dibella 3Cotonea (Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel) 100% 4Pact 100% 5ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH) 100%

6

prAna 7Coyuchi, Inc. 100% 8KnowledgeCotton Apparel 100% 9Dedicated 100% 10

LeaderboardsPreferred Cotton - Organic Cotton

LeaderboardsPreferred Cotton - Portfolio

* Uses either 100% organic cotton or a mix of organic and recycled cotton.

Top by Volume: Companies that reported the highest consumption volumes for 2017.

Top by Growth: Companies that reported their consumption for 2016 and 2017 and showed the highest growth rate over the two years.

100% Club: Companies belonging to the 100% Club have achieved the status of all relative fiber coming from the relative PFM or portfolio of PFMs.

Race to the Top: Companies that are closing the gap between conventional and preferred fibers in their portfolio. (This ranking excludes companies that belong to the 100% club.)

i Report Year uses consumption data from previous year (e.g. 2018 PFM Leaderboards refer to production data from 2017). See Background Information section for definitions and links to resources.

BCI | CmiA | Fair Trade | Organic | Organic Fair Trade | REEL Cotton | Recycled Cotton


Company 100% Club


Dedicated 100%

Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH 100%

Loomstate 100%

Mara Hoffman 100%

Mini Rodini 100%

Pact 100%

Salvage® (Continental Clothing) 100%

Veja 100%


KnowledgeCotton Apparel 1Kuyichi B.V. 2Under the Canopy 3Outerknown 4Norrøna Sport 5Icebreaker 6EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 7Nudie Jeans 8SKFK 9Patagonia 10

Company Volume

NIKE, Inc. 1Inter Ikea Group 2Target Corporation 3DECATHLON 4ALDI South International 5H&M 6The North Face 7Patagonia 8Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 9PVH Corp 10


REI 1ASOS 2Target Corporation 3toad & co 4TIERRA 5EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 6SKFK 7Gap Inc. 8Marks & Spencer 9Teva (Deckers Brands) 10

LeaderboardsPreferred Synthetics - rPET

"AUNTY", COLLECTOR, INDIAPHOTO: PLASTICS FOR CHANGE

“ We are very pleased to be ranked in the PFM Leaderboards for the second year running. By participating in the PFM Benchmark, ALDI North gains valuable information on the development of our efforts towards more sustainable textile fibers, compared to the results of other relevant actors in the market. The results motivate us to gradually increase our use of more sustainable fibers and hence to achieve even better results in years to come. The PFMB also enables us to further commit to ambitious goals, e.g. to increase the use of sustainable cotton for the German market to 30% in 2018, and thus supports our shift towards a more transparent and sustainable textile value chain. ”

Rayk Mende, ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG

“ At ASOS we have analyzed the environmental footprint of the fibers we use in our garments and home textiles. We scoped out our consumption leading to the prioritization and action plan for cotton, polyester and viscose. Using the PFM Benchmark as a research tool, we have created a fiber switching framework for our retail teams to follow in order to switch to more sustainable alternatives. We have used the PFMB to benchmark our progress in relation to other retailers and brands to support our sustainability strategy, and continue to refer to it as a key resource. ”

Tara Luckman, ASOS


Company 100% Club

Dibella 100%

EarthPositive® (Continental Clothing) 100%

Icebreaker 100%

Indigenous Designs 100%

Kathmandu 100%

KnowledgeCotton Apparel 100%

Kuyichi B.V. 100%

Nature USA/BGREEN 100%

Nudie Jeans 100%

Patagonia 100%

People Tree 100%

TIERRA 100%


G-Star RAW C.V. 1Fjällräven International 2Mara Hoffman 3MEC 4toad & co 5ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH) 6DECATHLON 7REI 8SKFK 9AB Lindex 10

Company Volume

H&M 1Inditex Group 2Gap Inc. 3C&A Global 4Marks and Spencer 5AB Lindex 6Levi Strauss & Co. 7DECATHLON 8EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 9Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 10


The North Face 1G-Star RAW C.V. 2Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 3Gap Inc. 4C&A Global 5SKFK 6ASOS 7Timberland 8EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 9H&M 10

Company 100% Club


ASOS 100%

Dibella* 100%

EarthPositive® (Continental Clothing)* 100%


Icebreaker* 100%

Indigenous Designs* 100%

Kathmandu* 100%

KnowledgeCotton Apparel* 100%

Kuyichi B.V.* 100%

Mara Hoffman 100%

MEC 100%

Mini Rodini 100%

Nature USA/BGREEN* 100%

Nudie Jeans* 100%

Patagonia* 100%

People Tree* 100%

prAna 100%

Stanley/Stella 100%

Stella McCartney 100%

TIERRA* 100%

toad & co 100%


G-Star RAW C.V. 1DECATHLON 2REI 3Fjällräven International 4EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 5Hanky Panky 6Tchibo GmbH 7New Balance Athletics, Inc. 8SKFK 9AB Lindex 10

Company Volume

H&M 1C&A Global 2Inditex Group 3Tchibo GmbH 4Gap Inc. 5ASOS 6ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG 7Next Retail Ltd 8ALDI South International 9Marks and Spencer 10


The North Face 1H&M 2G-Star RAW C.V. 3Gap Inc. 4Williams-Sonoma, Inc. 5SKFK 6ASOS 7Timberland 8EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 9Mini Rodini 10

LeaderboardsPreferred Manmade Cellulosics - Lyocell

LeaderboardsPreferred Manmade Cellulosics - Portfolio

“ Our new Preferred Fiber Toolkit essentially guides our brands, enabling them to make better decisions when developing fabrics by using preferred fibers – which in turn then increases the use of these materials. It drives education which then drives strategy and goal-setting around fiber sourcing and consumption. The PFM Benchmark and our Toolkit are closely tied and complement each other. ”

Megan Stoneburner, Gap Inc.

“ As part of H&M’s efforts of leading the change towards a sustainable textile industry, we see partnership and cooperation as key for success. The Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark is a great example of driving industry wide and credible increase in the use of preferred fibers with traceability from raw material to final product. We use the PFMB and market report for industry insights and as support in driving traceability initiatives. ”

Mattias Bodin, H&M

* 100% of pMMC is lyocell

Preferred Lyocell | Preferred Modal | Preferred Viscose | Recycled Cellulose

i The definition of a preferred Manmade Cellulosic (pMMC) is evolving. For the purpose of the Benchmark a pMMC will have attributes associated with: feedstock production, manufacturing, traceability, and impact. See page 49 for full definition.


Company 100% Club

ALANA (dm-drogerie markt) 100%


Icebreaker 100%

Mini Rodini 100%

Patagonia 100%

prAna 100%

TIERRA 100%


Bluey Merino 1Norrøna Sport 2UGG (Deckers Brands) 3Nudie Jeans 4KnowledgeCotton Apparel 5Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH 6EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 7Coyuchi, Inc. 8FRILUFTS 9toad & co 10

Company Volume

UGG (Deckers Brands) 1Icebreaker 100% 2H&M 3Gap Inc. 4EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 5ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH) 100%

6

Gucci 7Ramblers Way Farm, LLC 8toad & co 9Bluey Merino 10

Company 100% Club

Burberry 100%

Burton 100%

C&A Global 100%

Columbia Sportswear Company 100%

EILEEN FISHER, Inc. 100%

Esprit 100%

Fjällräven International 100%

FRILUFTS 100%

Gucci 100%

H&M 100%

Helly Hansen AS 100%


HUGO BOSS 100%

Kathmandu 100%

Levi Strauss & Co. 100%

MEC 100%

MQ 100%

Norrøna Sport 100%

Patagonia 100%

prAna 100%

REI 100%

Target Corporation 100%

Tesco 100%

Timberland 100%

The North Face 100%

Trendsetter International 100%

UGG (Deckers Brands) 100%

VARNER 100%

Volcom 100%

Waschbär (Triaz GmbH) 100%


Coop Switzerland 1DECATHLON 2Marks and Spencer 3Hemtex 4

Company Volume

H&M 100% 1The North Face 100% 2Levi Strauss & Co. 100% 3Columbia Sportswear Company 100% 4Target Corporation 100% 5C&A Global 100% 6Kathmandu 100% 7REI 100% 8Patagonia 100% 9Timberland 100% 10


REI 100% 1Waschbär (Triaz GmbH) 100% 2Timberland 100% 3H&M 100% 4Kathmandu 100% 5Columbia Sportswear Company 100% 6Norrøna Sport 100% 7C&A Global 100% 8Patagonia 100% 9The North Face 100% 10

LeaderboardsPreferred Down

LeaderboardsPreferred Wool

“ Facing the reality that resources are scarce and that the population is continuing to grow, ARMEDANGELS, as a sustainable fashion brand solely uses preferred materials. The tool does not only provide us with a material benchmark of the industry in general; but also supports us in our own research on materials that are ecologically optimized and socially and ethically advanced and serves as a further spur to continuously make progressive change.”

Levinia Muth, ARMEDANGELS

“ To be part of the PFM Benchmark helps Veja’s team to understand and recognize all the work Veja has been doing by adopting 100% organic cotton in its products and by having built its own supply chain for this crucial material used in the industry. The program also assists the team to comprehend what has been done in relation to other materials and to encourage Veja’s team to reach a more sustainable supply chain in the next coming years. ”

François Ghislain Morillion, Veja

Responsible Down | Traceable Down | Downpass Certified | Recycled Down Organic Wool | Responsible Wool | Recycled Wool


PFM Benchmark DashboardUptake and Outcome Benefits

5.93 billion244,000

13,539 ha

Preferred Cotton

Preferred Polyester

Preferred Manmade Cellulosics

Preferred Down

Preferred Wool

2016: 319,248 mt 2016: 892 mt

2016: - no data2016: 43,482 mt

2016: no data

47% Preferred Cotton53% Conventional Cotton

47%

8% Preferred Polyester92% Virgin Polyester

8%

3.4% Preferred MMCs96.6% Conventional Viscose

3.4%

94% Preferred Down6% Conventional Down

20% Preferred Wool80% Conventional Wool

94%

20%

26,904 mtrCotton fiber upcycled into new textile products

1,553 mtrWool fiber upcycled into new textile products

1.15 million ha

Land under organic orimproved management

122 million

Number of birds covered

PET bottles diverted from landfill

Organic or RWS equivalent number

of sheep

Area of sustainably sourced wood

2018: 940,533 mt 2018: 2,732 mt

2018: 2,772 mt2018: 98,052 mt

2018: 35,273 mt

2017: 622,359 mt 2017: 1,710 mt

2017: - no data2017: 50,139 mt

2017: 25,802 mt

i 1. Growth in reporting, as well as growth in individual company uptake, must be considered when comparing year-on-year volume growth.2. Consumption is self-reported. Not all 111 participants could report consumption figures. 3. Adjustments: On occasion, consumption totals for previous years may be slightly adjusted to account for adjustments requested by participating brands and retailers.4. The years listed in the dashboard above refer to the PFM Benchmark program cycle, which reports generally on company data from the previous year. For example, 2018 refers to the 2018 program cycle, which reports on 2017 company data.

The benchmark dashboard provides an overview of the reported PFM consumption, portion of total consumption the PFM claim represents, and an equivalent estimated benefit based upon the PFM volume.


The Barometer Shows Companies Are Moving up the Scale

The PFM Index barometer provides a scale to measure performance. In 2018, the proportion of companies in each performance banding improved again, slightly. The biggest move was between "developing" and "establishing" indicating continued movement along the scale.

NUMBER OF COMPANIES IN EACH PERFORMANCE BAND

PFM Index Barometer

60 61

Corporate Strategy(Section 1)

Supply Chain(Section 2)

Consumption(Section 3)

Consumer Engagement(Section 4)

3538

45

5349

53

INDEXAVERAGE

5053

201820172016

PERFORMANCE AGAINST THE PFM INDEX

There is an Overall Shift Forwards in the PFM Index

The PFM Index average is the average of all participant scores. It is calculated from Section 1 scores plus the average score for Sections 2, 3 and 4 for a company’s top three performing modules. All scores are out of 100.

The Index average moved up 3 points, from 53 out of 100 in 2017, to 56 in 2018. Since 2016, the Index average improved by 14.2%.

This year, we’ve seen an overall increase across all Sections of the Index. Corporate Strategy is still ahead of the rest of the Index, while Consumer Engagement remains the biggest opportunity for improvement.

56

62

5661

40

Starting Out Developing Establishing Progressing Well Leading

2018

2017

2016 4

6

8

10

11

19

24

42

24

49113811

10

performance band: 0–39 40–59 60–69 70–79 80+

Leading the fieldActivities maturing and leadership is emerging

Building on the foundations and developing further

Laying the foundations

Beginning the journey

Key


Sub-sector ResultsShow Pace of Change Variances

53

67

27

42

25

3839

51

45

5457

76

58

4843

46+50+53+0+0+69+61+59+0+43+46+48+0+41+55+64+0+27+32+3265

61





27

32

41

55

4650

SUB-SECTORAVERAGE

4346

53

59

48

64

32

5754

41

52

47

5752

5760

6462

60

67

6057

62

54

4851

65

71

59 6157

6160

53

61

71

49



Apparel (Large)

Outdoor/Sports Home Textiles

201820172016

201820172016SUB-SECTOR PERFORMANCE AGAINST THE PFM INDEX

Over the three years of benchmarking, four of the five sub-sectors moderately improved their average overall score. While experiencing a 1 point drop, the Apparel (S/M) brands maintained a high overall average (60). The Home Textile sub-sector achieved the highest overall average (62) and the Apparel (L) brands the lowest (52), but only by a shade. Home Textiles, Apparel (S/M), and Multi-sector/Apparel (XL) sub-sectors out-performed the Index. Special recognition must be made to the Multi-sector/Apparel (XL) brands who grew their sub-sector average by 49% over three years, improving across all Index sections.

Corporate Strategy (section 1) remained strong over three years, despite adding additional questions about circularity and the Sustainable Development Goals in 2017. Having said that, the Apparel (S/M) and Outdoor/Sports sub-sectors did experience a drop in average scores for this section. Meanwhile, the larger brands, in both Multi-sector/Apparel (XL) and Apparel (L), experienced considerable improvements.

Supply Chain (section 2), asks companies to report on integrity practices such as supplier mapping and chain of custody, and investment activities. Here, the Apparel (S/M) and Home Textile brands remain strongest. Although achieving lower average scores, the Multi-sector/Apparel (XL) and Apparel (L) companies showed good progress. Outdoor/Sports brands, while showing some improvement, are lagging behind the others in this area.

Consumption (section 3) ventures into target-setting, uptake, and how a company is "closing the gap" on conventional fibers/materials. Here, the Multi-sector/Apparel (XL), Apparel (L), and Outdoor/Sports sub-sectors really shine with scores jumping 92%, 63%, and 56% respectively, over three years.

Consumer Engagement (section 4) completes the Index, with a focus on how a company is positioning product made with preferred fiber/materials, and managing relationships with customers. All sub-sectors have a way to go, but Apparel (S/M) and Home Textile companies outshined the others.

52+57+62+0+0+57+54+60+0+60+64+67+0+47+57+60+0+41+52+57 59+61+60+0+0+62+54+53+0+57+61+61+0+65+71+71+0+48+51+4941+47+52+0+0+61+67+69+0+42+48+51+0+32+43+53+0+23+21+27 39+51+57+0+0+53+67+76+0+45+54+58+0+25+38+48+0+27+42+43Corporate Strategy

(Section 1)
















SUB-SECTORAVERAGE

SUB-SECTORAVERAGE

SUB-SECTORAVERAGE

SUB-SECTORAVERAGE

61

67

2321

32

4341

47

42

4852

69

5153

27


PERFORMANCE ACROSS THE PFM PORTFOLIO

Improvement comes from a Balanced Portfolio

A preferred fiber or material is ecologically and/or socially progressive and has been selected because it has more sustainable properties in comparison to other options.

The top performing PFMs in 2018 were organic-fair trade cotton, organic cotton, and preferred down. Companies that scored well in these PFMs were strong in: chain of custody from feedstock to final product; high uptake compared to their conventional use; and use of third-party labeling.

3130

Preferred Polyester Preferred Manmade Cellulosics

Preferred Animal Fibers

5555

3637

3235

30 2833 32

201820172016

Preferred Cotton

56

51

33

6065

5355

38

44

2735

Org

anic

Fai

r Tr

ade

Rec

ycle

d

Pre

ferr

ed L

yoce

ll

Pre

ferr

ed M

odal

Pre

ferr

ed V

isco

se

Pre

ferr

ed D

own

Pre

ferr

ed W

oolO

rgan

ic

BC

I

Rec

ycle

d

37

MAINE FORESTER, USAPHOTO: SAPPI NORTH AMERICA, INC

Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark Insights Report © 2018 •• 3332 •• Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark Insights Report © 2018COTTON RECYCLER, SPAINPHOTO: RECOVER/ HILATURAS FERRE S.A.

Safer Products MatterWhen it comes to Circularity

More companies have circularity strategies this year, compared to the year before. Where companies are implementing circularity strategies in their businesses, top concerns were chemical and material inputs, followed by the importance of supplier and consumer engagement.

PROPORTION OF PARTICIPANTS WHO HAVE A CIRCULAR STRATEGY 43+40+17+tYes 43% [2017: 29%] In development 40% [52%]No 17% [19%]

43% 17%

40%

30%

32%

68%

78%

86%

65%

76%

73%

54%

30+32+68+78+86+66+76+73+54+Demand Management (sufficiency)

Product Design (disassembly)

Product Design (recyclability)

Materials (input proofing)

Hazardous Chemicals/Substances

Service Provision (extended use)

Supply Chain Collaboration

Consumer Engagement

Broader Stakeholder Collaboration


Companies Are Aligning Their Strategies with the SDGs

PROPORTION OF PARTICIPANTS WHO ARE ALIGNING THEIR CORPORATE STRATEGY WITH THE SDGs43+39+18+tYes 43% [2017: 29%] Under review 39% [45%]No 18% [26%] 43% 18%

39%

59%

49%

57%

68%

86%

81%

59+49+57+68+86+81Working in collaboration with stakeholders

Tracking the (expected) outcomes and impact

Integrated into business model

Set targets and indicators

Identified priorities

Identified opportunities and responsibilities

PFMs Impact Positively on the Sustainable Development Goals

The SDGs are universal, holistic, and measurable. Companies are starting to use them to plan a long-term approach to sustainability.

SDG 12: Sustainable Consumption and Production is the gateway for the Textile Industry to contribute to the Global Goals.

From the 43% of companies that have started to align their corporate strategy withthe SDGs, 97% told us SDG 12: Responsible Consumption & Production was themost important, followed by SDG 8: Decent Work & Economic Growth (86%). At equal levels of priority (81%) were SDG 5: Gender Equality, SDG 6: Clean Water & Sanitation, and SDG 13: Climate Action.

http://here


A preferred fiber and materials strategy should be based on the principles of continuous improvement and result in a positive impact.

A Portfolio Approach to Preferred Fiber & Materials

A portfolio approach involves building a suite of preferred fibers and materials, from a choice of preferred options, through the consideration of impacts and organizational priorities. It involves embedding a strategy that leads to preferred options replacing unsustainable or less sustainable options*.

Benchmark Portfolio Options:

The benchmark program allows participants to build their own portfolio based on the PFMs their company is implementing. The survey currently offers modules on the following PFMs:

The fiber or material has a recognized industry standard in place that confirms its status as preferred.

The fiber or material has sustainability criteria developed through a formalized multistakeholder process.

The fiber or material has been objectively tested or verified as having sustainability attributes, such as through a peer reviewed Life Cycle Assessment (LCA).

Ways to recognize or achieve a preferred status include:

Data available now is proving that some of the biggest sustainability impacts and “hotspots” of textile production occur in the growing and extracting of raw materials.

Defining aPreferred Fiber or Material

Textile Exchange describes a preferred fiber or material as ecologically and/or socially* progressive which has been selected because it has more sustainable properties in comparison to other options.

i * “Socially” progressive covers both human and animal welfare. i * A movement away from practices that depend on fossil-based feedstocks and chemical inputs, cause depletion of natural resources, or result in environmental degradation, or cause human or animal welfare issues; towards practices that lead to wellbeing and prosperity for all, while conserving or enhancing the natural environment.

Preferred Cotton

Better Cotton Initiative Recycled Polyester Preferred Lyocell Responsible Down

Cotton made in Africa Recycled Nylon Preferred Modal

Fair Trade Cotton Preferred Viscose

Organic Cotton Recycled Cellulose

Organic Fair Trade

REEL Cotton

Recycled Cotton

Preferred Synthetics Manmade Cellulosics Preferred Animal Fibers

rCotton

pViscose

pModal

pLyocellrPET

rViscose

rNylonTraceable Down

Downpass Certified

Recycled Down

Organic Wool

Responsible Wool

Recycled Wool

rDown

rWool

OW

DP

RW

TDS Down

RDS Down

REEL

OFT

OC

FT

CmiA

BCI


The PFM BenchmarkFramework

The benchmark framework follows a systematic approach to integrating preferred fibers and materials into business strategy.

Section 1Corporate Strategy

[25%]

Section 2Supply Chain

[30%]

Section 3Consumption

[30%]

Section 4Consumer Engagement

[15%]

Q1 Corporate Values[5%]

Q14-15 PFM Module Selection & Materiality[Non-Scoring]

Q3 Risk Assessment[12.5%]

Q4 Goals[10%]

Q6 Accountability[10%]

Q8 Rating Tools[5%]

Q10 Sustainable Development Goals[5%]

Q2 Sustainability Strategy[15%]

Q16 Chain of Custody[40%]

Q23 History[Non-Scoring]

Q27 Product Ranges[Non-Scoring]

Q31 Product Marks & Labeling [20%]

Q17 Processing Standards[Non-Scoring]

Q24 SMART Targets[25%]

Q28 Key Markets[Non-Scoring]

Q32 Monitoring Business Benefits [20%]

Q18 Traceability[40%]

Q25 Consumption Reporting [15%]

Q29 Estimated Sales[Non-Scoring]

Q33 Calculating ROI[10%]

Q19 Origins[Non-Scoring]

Q26 Uptake [60%] Q30 Establishing Brand Identity [10%]

Q34 Consumer Strategy [20%]

Q35 Evaluation of Consumer Strategy [20%]

Q20 Trade Relations [Non-Scoring]

Q5 Policies[10%]

Q7 Responsibility[10%]

Q9 Textile Circularity[5%]

Q11 Corporate Reporting[12.5%]

What is thePFM Benchmark?

Companies using the benchmark follow a self-assessment process which is intended to help them identify strengths in their management and performance and gaps where future progress can be made. By comparing their scores with those achieved by the entire group of participants, companies can plan their improvement efforts and priority action areas.

The steps involved in Benchmarking

The PFMB technology platform - Probench

Identify Identify gaps for improvement and reinforce good practice.

Track progress over time and drive continuous improvement.

Benchmark against peers and leading practice.

Engage leadership and raise awareness internally.

Track

Benchmark

Engage

Benchmarking, learning and action is not a one-time project. It is a driver of continuous improvement.

The PFM Benchmark is managed through a portal called “Probench” developed by our software partners, 73Bit Ltd. Probench is also home to other important benchmarking programs such as the United Nations Finance Initiative (UN-FI), the UN Principles for Responsible Investment (UN-PRI), Access to Nutrition Index, and the Business Benchmark on Farm Animal Welfare.

Q12 FM Profile[Non-Scoring]

Q13 PFM Profile[Non-Scoring]

Q16-35 for Sections 2, 3 & 4 are completed for each PFM module selected.

Q21 Sustainability Investment[20%]

Q22 Pricing Model [Non-Scoring]


Background Information

Defining the Sub-sectors

Sub-Sector: Multi-Sector/Apparel (Extra Large) Description: Extra large apparel and multi-sector companies and retailers. Submissions from holding companies are also included in this sub-sector.Product categories: Fashion, family, baby, basics, intimates, workwear/uniforms and home textiles.

Sub-Sector: Apparel (Large)Description: Large and mid-size companies and retailers of mainly apparel. Product categories: Designer, luxury, fashion, family, baby, basics, and intimates.

Sub-Sector: Apparel (Small/Medium)Description: Small to mid-size companies and retailers of mainly apparel. Also includes submissions based on "product line" (even if the company size would place them in Large or Extra Large. Product categories: Designer, fashion, family, baby, basics, intimates and workwear/uniforms.

Sub-Sector: Sports/OutdoorDescription: Companies and retailers, all sizes, of outdoor, sportswear, and footwear.Product categories: Mountain, active and performance sports, yoga, lifestyle, and footwear.

Sub-Sector: Home Textiles Description: Companies and retailers, all sizes, of exclusively or predominantly home textiles. Catering and hospitality companies are also included in this sub-sector.Product categories: Dining (table cloths, napkins), bed and bath, and indoor or outdoor soft furnishing.

All attempts were made to categorize sub-sectors according to recognized naming systems. However, in order to create like-for-like comparisons, Apparel is divided into three sub-sectors: Small/Medium, Large, and Multi-Sector/Extra-Large Enterprises, depending upon turnover. For the Outdoor/Sports sub-sector, there is large variation in company size; however, the majority classify as either Large or Extra Large Enterprises by turnover. In Home Textiles, there is some variation in company size, however the majority are Small or Medium Enterprises.

The PFM Index

The PFM Index result is derived from a company’s Section 1: Strategy score plus the average score for Sections 2: Supply Chain, 3: Consumption and 4: Consumer Engagement of a company’s top three performing preferred fibers or materials (PFMs) modules. Until now, a company has had the option to complete as few or as many modules as they wish (including only a single module). Going forward, the index will become more aligned to a company's priority fibers, focusing on the key elements of their portfolio.

The PFM Consumption Tracker has been developed for companies wishing to report consumption volumes and a minimum amount of supporting information only. The Consumption Tracker offers a reporting option for signatories to the Sustainable Cotton Challenge and the rPET Commitment who do not wish to undertake the full PFM Benchmark.

Estimating Outcome Benefits

Land under more sustainable cotton agriculture: Certified organic land area (hectares) is based on data from Textile Exchange’s data collection program. Land under BCI, CmiA, and Fair Trade production is estimated based on data provided by each initiative.

Bottles diverted from landfill: Estimates of the number of PET bottles (recycled into polyester) are based on conversion factors shared by certification bodies.

Land under certified forestry: Calculations are based on Lenzing, 2010, LCA of MMC fibers. Consumption of pViscose, pLyocell and pModal is calculated back to land use based on assumptions in the study. Then aggregated on total land basis, irrespective of origin.

Birds covered by down standards: Geese and duck number estimations are based on conversions shared by key suppliers and J. Kozák, 2011, An Overview of Feathers Formation, Moults and Down Production in Geese.

Sheep covered by wool standards: Sheep number estimates are based on conversions shared by key industry stakeholders, and the consultation and validation of these figures with multiple wool stakeholders.


PFM Portfolio of Options

The preferred Cotton (pCotton) portfolio offers the largest number of module options. Options include: Organic Fair Trade Cotton (OFT), Organic Cotton (OC), Fair Trade Cotton (FT), Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), CottonConnect's REEL Cotton (REEL) and Recycled Cotton (rCotton).

The preferred Polyester portfolio currently includes Recycled Polyester (rPET) as the only PFM option. Recycled Polyester (rPET) uses mainly post-consumer plastic (PET) bottles and packaging, or pre/post-consumer textile waste as the raw material. rPET can be either mechanically or chemically recycled into filament or staple fiber. The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard) are Chain of Custody standards to track recycled polyesters through the supply chain. The GRS, in addition, requires social and environmental criteria to be met during the processing stages.

The definition of a preferred Manmade Cellulosic (pMMC) is evolving. For the purpose of the Benchmark a pMMC will have the following attributes:

• Feedstocks All feedstocks must be low risk of being sourced from ancient and endangered forests as verified by publicly available CanopyStyle Audits, and certified to a forest sustainability standard (e.g. FSC). The goal is that all sources of feedstock maximize FSC-certified pulp to validate sustainable forest practices. Where LCA’s confirm lower impact, waste inputs are preferred such as left-over straw and recycled cotton inputs.

• Manufacturing pMMCs must be produced according to Best Available Technologies in regards to water, energy, chemicals, waste, etc. Standards include EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX STeP.

• Traceability Companies should be mapping suppliers, and implementing a traceability management system. The CanopyStyle Audits create traceability from forest to pMMC producer. Some suppliers offer traceability through their own systems.

• Impact There is demonstrated environmental impact savings of the pMMC fiber compared with generic viscose, validated via an independent intermediary such as the Higg MSI or Life Cycle Assessments validated by a noninterested party.

The PFM benchmark currently offers modules for preferred lyocell e.g. LENZING™ Lyocell, preferred modal e.g. LENZING™ Modal, and preferred viscose e.g. LENZING™

ECOVERO™ and LENZING™ Viscose with EU Ecolabel. Preferred lyocell is best in class, made in a closed-loop system that recycles the majority of the solvent used. Technologies for chemically recycling cellulose materials are increasingly providing opportunities to replace virgin inputs, and will be considered in this program in the future.

The preferred Down (pDown) portfolio currently incorporates products certified to either the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), Traceable Down Standard (TDS), Downpass, or an organic standard e.g. Organic Content Standard (OCS) or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Among other animal welfare criteria, pDown excludes feathers/down from birds that have been live plucked or force-fed. The portfolio of pDown options also includes recycled down (e.g. certified to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Content Standard (RCS), SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard).

The preferred Wool (pWool) portfolio includes wool that is grown with a progressive approach to land management, and animal welfare. The portfolio of options includes wool produced to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or its equivalencies, organic e.g. Organic Content Standard (OCS) or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and recycled wool e.g. certified to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Content Standard (RCS), SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard.

PFM Leaderboards

The Leaderboards are based on the participating companies’ self-reported consumption data. While Textile Exchange reviews all data entries, checks calculations, and carries out a consistency check, it does not verify the accuracy of the data. The responsibility for the accuracy of the data remains with the participating companies.Top by Volume: Companies that reported the highest consumption volumes for 2017.Top by Growth: Companies that reported their consumption for 2016 and 2017 and showed the highest growth rate over the two years.100% Club: Companies belonging to the 100% Club have achieved the status of all relative fiber coming from the relative PFM or portfolio of PFMs. Race To The Top: Companies that are closing the gap between conventional and preferred fibers in their portfolio. (This ranking excludes companies that belong to the 100% Club.)

For more information on methodology and definitions please refer to the "About the Benchmark" document.

https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/TE_PFM-Benchmark_About-the-Benchmark.pdf

https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/TE_PFM-Benchmark_About-the-Benchmark.pdf


PFM BenchmarkResources Production Team

PFM Benchmark program- visit website here

Probench portal- visit website here

Company feedback report (sample)- download document here

Survey guidance notes- download document here

Survey question elements- download document here

Program FAQs- visit website here

SDG resources- visit website here

Recycled Polyester Commitment- visit website here

Sustainable Cotton Commitment- visit website here

Liesl Truscott Director Europe & Materials Strategy, Textile Exchange

Evonne Tan Director Data Center & China Strategy, Textile Exchange

Nicole Lambert Data Analyst, Textile Exchange

Lisa Emberson Program Manager, Textile Exchange

Stefanie Maurice Independent Consultant

Phil Bettany Report design and production

PhotographySupplier Portraits

Cotton farmers, India - Ben Langdon for C&A Foundation Forester, Maine, USA - Sappi North America, Inc

Sheep farmer, New Zealand - Wools of New ZealandWaste collector, India - Plastics For Change

Cotton recycler, Spain - Recover/ Hilaturas Ferre S.A.

Additional Imagery - CoverNASA DAVID HOBSON, NGA RUA STATION, NEW ZEALAND

PHOTO: WOOLS OF NEW ZEALAND

https://textileexchange.org/pfm-benchmark/

http://www.73bit.com/

http://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/2017_TE_PFM_Benchmark_Feedback_Report-Sharks-Dont-Bite_Sample-Report.pdf

https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/TE-PFM-Benchmark-Guidance_Notes_2017.pdf

https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/TE-PFM-Benchmark-Question-Elements-2017.pdf

https://textileexchange.org/sdgs/

https://textileexchange.org/recycled-polyester-commitment/

https://textileexchange.org/sustainable-cotton-communique-2025/

46 •• Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark Insights Report © 2018

Want to find out more about the Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark?

Visit: www.TextileExchange.org/pfm-benchmark

Contact: [email protected]

Textile Exchange is a proud member of the World Benchmark Alliance

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